We make wooden shelving with our own hands. Do-it-yourself rack - we create a storage space easily and simply (62 photo ideas) Do-it-yourself warehouse rack

How to make a shelving unit with your own hands, which will resemble antique furniture from the museum, because it will have an arched shape at the bottom and top. You may get the impression that such a home-made rack once belonged to your grandfather and it is very dear to you.

And if you want to make a product that will not only decorate the room, but will also be a multifunctional place to store different things - vases, books, photo frames and souvenirs, items dear to your heart.

We have prepared instructions for the manufacture of the main product for you. And how you will refine it - it depends only on your imagination. It can be a rack in Provence, country or vintage style.

Such a piece of furniture made of wood with your own hands will be a reason to be proud of your craftsmanship. Start learning the material.

The wardrobe ladder is assembled quickly and easily. We will use lamellas, screws or confirmations and grooved joints.

Dimensions, if you stick to the drawings, will be as follows: WxDxH - 1120x445x1990 mm.

It is possible to make shelving from furniture board, but we recommend using cheaper materials, such as plywood for shelves and pine boards for racks.

Start with the legs

The manufacture of the rack begins with the legs, or they are also called racks.

We will make front, rear and side legs. Front and rear (A) have the same dimensions - 18x60x1990 - 4 pcs., side (B) - 18x65x1990 - 4 pcs. Pay attention to the picture below, it indicates that the lower parts of the legs are beveled - saw off and sand along the line. You can make one leg as a sample and saw off the rest along it so that they are the same.

Legs. The inner surface of the left front and right rear pair of legs

Divide and mark each pair of legs for yourself to make two front-side and back-side pairs. It is necessary to take into account the direction of the bevels, carefully study the drawing of the rack, as this will ensure proper assembly.
Cut a groove 18mm wide and 6mm deep with a circular saw on the inside of the side legs to fit them to the front and back legs and glue them in production because the shelving will not be collapsible.

On the inner surface of the legs B, using masking tape, which must be glued to the hole markings, a tape measure and a pencil, mark the points for holes d = 6, 10 mm deep. Supports will be installed in these holes, on which the shelves will be installed.

Master's advice. To visually determine the depth of the hole, make a mark on the drills in advance and wrap the area above the line with masking tape. Or use depth gauges.

When connecting the legs, use wood glue. Align the ends and clamp with clamps.

For those who cannot think of the most convenient and practical way to store their belongings, we offer universal shelving. Such products are made very quickly and easily, and are suitable for any room, whether it be a garage, bedroom or living room.

Having at least a little experience in repair or construction work, you can easily answer the question "how to make a rack with your own hands."

The materials used can be found at the nearest hardware store, or at hand. The main thing is to approach the issue of manufacturing with all my heart.

Material base

Three types of materials are perfect for today's product - wood, metal or plastic. In addition, you can combine several bases.

It should be noted right away that of the proposed materials, plastic is the most difficult to process - insufficiently strong connections, spoiled appearance by cutting or drilling. Therefore, the most optimal solution is to use it with a wooden or metal structure.

In addition to the previous option, you can combine several other ideas. For example, use forged metal and plywood.

Artistic casting will look very good - the main thing is that it fits into the design idea of the room and is organically combined with other decorative elements. So, sweeping forging will not fit into the minimalist style.

Primarily

Before directly manufacturing a rack from boards or other bases, you need to carry out preparatory work. To do this, select the location of the future product, measure the dimensions and draw a drawing of the future furniture element.

Immediately think about what shape the product will turn out to be - for example, simple shelves are suitable for a garage or balcony. In a living room, you can connect your own imagination to create a unique and practical decor.

Also, based on your needs, calculate the size of the shelves. For example, a basement rack that will store jars can have a shelf of 30 centimeters. In other cases, you need to take into account the stored items.

After that, the preparation of the material begins. For wood products, choose a dry and planed base. It is important that the bars are intact and have the correct shape.

The pipe rack also needs to be carefully prepared - steel can be painted in advance if the standard color does not suit.

One of the main nuances is the conditions for further use of racks. Wet rooms will require additional processing of the wood frame or metal parts.

Manufacturing

When the shelving scheme is ready with your own hands, you can proceed directly to the production process. First of all, the frame is assembled, depending on the material chosen. The remaining elements are attached to the finished lower base.

Keep in mind that when creating large structures, you need to take care of additional rigidity. Add two or three spacers to the frame at the ends and the wall. So you get a more reliable and durable element.

As well as the shelves themselves - choose the material for them yourself, based on your taste preferences.

For everyone who wants to get acquainted, we offer a photo of shelving with our own hands, made of various materials. It will be easier for you to evaluate and understand what will best complement the design of your room or apartment as a whole.

original ideas

It is not at all necessary to buy certain materials - it is enough to use old things, such as a chair, a wardrobe and others.

Unused drawers can be easily converted into shelving units, which are quite versatile and won't take up much space.

Those who have recently laid linoleum know that there is a cardboard tube inside the roll. Several of these products will make excellent shelves.

In appearance, this piece of furniture will resemble a honeycomb. In this case, drawings of shelving will not even be needed, with your own hands you will get unusually comfortable furniture fittings.

DIY shelving photo

It is easy and pleasant to make a rack from a wooden beam. For this you need:

draw the simplest drawing and calculate the material;
purchase a beam measuring fifty by fifty millimeters;
purchase boards for shelves or plywood;
purchase long furniture screws;
you will also need impregnation for wood such as Pinotex, or drying oil, stain and varnish;
can be immediately cut to size;
the dimensions of the rack will be the required height, width and depth;
you can also immediately sand the timber, it will be easier later;
now we saw using a miter box, a beam, you can saw with a miter saw, as well as any electric hand or stationary saw;
Now that the parts are ready, we assemble;
first we collect two rectangle rings from a bar and tie them from above and below;
then we make crossbars;
now we are laying the shelves, the shelves can also be cut from a bar, and to save material, the bar can be laid at intervals, in the form of a lattice;
we securely fasten everything with wood glue and self-tapping screws;
additionally grind with fine sandpaper;
and top coat.

You can use a bar 50x50 mm. From it you can make supports. There may be four, six or eight. This is at the discretion of the owner. From the same beam we make transverse strips, on which we will then mount the shelves. It is best for a beam of this size to use corners that should be attached to the bottom of the plank. It will not be superfluous if you also drill a long self-tapping screw for the screed through each cross bar. The supports between themselves can also be fastened with the same beam, also on the corners.

Do-it-yourself bookcase from boards

When the frame is ready, we lay shelves from boards on it (thickness can be 25, 30, 40 mm) and sit on self-tapping screws. The rack from a bar is ready.

Original shelving options

Anyone who believes that the rack is a rough frame with shelves is deeply mistaken. Indeed, for the basement and garage, you can not really fantasize. Strength, durability and functionality - this is the main slogan for these premises.

For a home interior, on the contrary, I want to do something special and non-trivial. Therefore, do-it-yourself craftsmen spare no time and effort to capture our imagination. A couple of oak planks and a few glass bottles are all you need to create an original design.

Photo No. 1 Rack of bottles and boards

Despite the simplicity, the strength of such a rack is quite high. You can store not only books on it, but also use it to display a collection of wines.

Anyone who has dealt with high shelf structures knows that without a good ladder it is impossible to get to their upper tier. And why not use the shelves as steps - a resourceful person thought and created just such an original system.

Photo No. 2 Rack-ladder

The classic frame shelving rests on the floor, and to install the rope shelving, you only need two hooks in the wall. Of course, it will not be possible to store heavy cans with conservation on it, but it is perfect for books, photographs and souvenirs.

Photo No. 3 Hanging rope rack

You can make a rack with your own hands so that others appreciate your creative nature using steel water pipes and fittings.

How to make a wooden rack correctly and easily with your own hands?

This design looks perfect in an interior designed in an industrial style. In addition, it is quite appropriate in an ordinary apartment.

Pay attention to the original way of mounting the shelves. They are mounted on racks according to the principle of a children's "pyramid" tier by tier.

Photo No. 4 Rack of water pipes

This rack does not have rear support legs. The high rigidity of the steel pipe, reinforced with tees, makes it possible to abandon them. This design can be placed anywhere: in the apartment, on the veranda, in the attic or cellar.

If your house has a staircase leading to the second floor. then the free space under it can be adapted for a rack. It will turn out functional and beautiful, as in photo No. 5.

Photo No. 5 Rack under the stairs

Having studied the original homemade options, we will consider the sequence of designing and assembling wooden and metal shelving.

We design the rack yourself

Before starting this work, it is highly desirable to try yourself as a design engineer. Any metal or wooden rack consists of a supporting frame and shelves. The main parameters that the working drawing should take into account are the dimensions of the items that will be stored on the shelves and their total weight. The choice of material will depend on the magnitude of the load and the level of humidity in the room.

The tree holds quite a lot of weight well. Unfortunately, even with antiseptic treatment, this material cannot resist dampness for a long time. Therefore, for dry rooms, wood will be our choice, and for wet ones (garage, basement, balcony), it is better to use metal.

Photo No. 6 Metal rack - the best solution for the garage and basement

Before you draw a rack diagram, you need to measure the items that will be stored on it and do not forget to leave gaps between them (5-10 cm) necessary for installation and removal from shelves.

The second step is the rational distribution of the load. The classic principle is the layout of the heaviest and bulky goods on the lower shelves. On the central tier put objects of medium weight and size. The upper levels are reserved for voluminous, but light things (boxes with clothes, boxes).

If books or home preservation will be placed on the rack, then its racks should not be moved apart too widely. 50-60 cm is the optimal step of wooden frames of this design. For a metal corner 50x50 mm, this distance can be increased to 80-100 cm (scheme No. 1).

The same dimensions must be observed when making a sketch of a rack structure designed to store a large number of tools.

A set of wheels for a car can simply be folded in a “slide” under the bottom shelf of the rack.

Photo No. 7 Wheels under the rack - compact and simple

If you have a lot of tires with disks, then it is best to make a special shelving structure for them without shelves. Two horizontal corners connecting the frame-racks will securely fix the wheels from falling (scheme No. 2).

The total length of such a rack is chosen based on the width of one tire, multiplied by their total number, plus 6-8 cm on each side for ease of access.

Assembly of wooden and metal shelving

The optimal material for a wooden shelving structure is planed bars with a section of 5x5 cm and OSB board.

The algorithm for manufacturing such a rack consists of the following operations:

We cut a bar for racks and crossbars according to the dimensions of the drawing.
Having laid the racks on a flat horizontal surface, we connect them with the crossbars (we use a hammer and nails or a screwdriver and self-tapping screws).
We fix the resulting support frames to the walls of the room through metal plates.
We cut the shelves from the OSB board.
We mount the shelves in the frame and fix them with self-tapping screws.

Photo No. 8 Rack support frames (a hammer is good, but a screwdriver is better!)

You can see the easiest option for assembling the sidewalls of the rack in photo No. 8. We note right away that the nail connection is not the most reliable, since it does not hold wood as firmly as self-tapping screws or confirmations.

Photo No. 9 A small wooden rack-rack, consisting of two sidewalls

A more aesthetically pleasing shelving frame has the crossbars flush with the uprights, as shown in Wiring Diagram #3.

If the step of the support frames is small (50-60 cm), then you can do without installing a longitudinal bar. It will be fully replaced by an OSB board with a thickness of 18-20 mm. At a small span, it has enough rigidity to withstand a lot of weight without deflection.

If you bought a thin slab or three-layer plywood, then you will have to install a longitudinal bar on each tier of the rack. He will tie the frames and will serve as a side support for the shelves. To increase the spatial rigidity of such a structure, several diagonal screeds from bars can be fixed on its back wall.

If you have a welding machine, then making a rack from a metal profile will be easier than a wooden one. If there is no welding, then you will have to take an electric drill, metal drills, stock up on bolts and nuts.

The sequence of manufacturing a metal rack from a corner or a profile pipe does not fundamentally differ from the installation of a wooden frame. Here, too, frames are first made, which are then leveled in a vertical plane and fixed to the wall. When using a thick chipboard or board 30-40 mm thick for shelves, the rack can not be connected with a longitudinal profile.

In this case, the shelves rest directly on the crossbars of the frames and are attached to them with metal screws.

If the structure will carry a serious load, then the longitudinal stiffening belt under the shelves will not be superfluous.

Note that working with a profile pipe is more convenient and easier than with a corner. Keep this in mind when buying metal. The optimal cross-sectional size for a square tubular profile in terms of price and strength is 25x25 mm, wall 2 mm. It is better to buy a corner equal to the size of 40x40 mm.

A lightweight version of the design can be made using metal support brackets. They are fastened with dowels to the wall, and on top they put shelves made of boards or OSB boards.

This solution allows you to save space under the rack for the installation of large items.

http://greensector.ru

How to make a rack with your own hands - an original and stylish option

New trends in the decoration of apartments and interior design did not leave furniture manufacturers indifferent either. Sometimes their "products" resemble a nightmare of a crazy impressionist, but sometimes decent ideas come across. To one of them, I would include the idea of the so-called "type-setting" rack. And today I want to consider the question: How to make a rack with your own hands.

Today I will tell you how to make such an original and stylish rack.

You can see in the photo that it looks a bit asymmetrical. In fact, for its manufacture, parts of only two sizes are needed, and the final form of the rack depends only on their layout.

Shelving details

When making such a rack with your own hands, you must first solve one dilemma, and the choice is purely individual: Stylish or cheap?

Thickened details will create a feeling of massiveness, monumentality of the structure. Such a rack looks expensive, but it also justifies this impression - it will take twice as much materials, time and effort. Here I will tell you how to make a rack from one thickness of material, but along the way I will explain the process of “rising in price”.

Details from laminated chipboard 16 mm thick:

1200x350 mm - 6 pcs. horizontal planes.
320x320 mm - 15 pcs. vertical planes.

To prepare a "stylish" option, you should multiply the number of parts by two - free will.

This rack stands on two horizontal bars in the color of laminated chipboard, but they will be successfully replaced by any furniture legs selected in a special fittings store.

Fittings and fasteners for shelving

If you are not limited to the original copy or the manufacture of shelving gives you a livelihood, it makes sense to stock up not in a store, but in a furniture fittings wholesale warehouse. I consider 5x70 mm confirmations to be the main fastener for assembling furniture, which I buy at once in boxes of a thousand pieces and save five times on this against the retail price.

In addition to confirmations and the legs I have already mentioned, you will need a melamine edge with an adhesive base for work. This is another stumbling block for those wishing to make a double chipboard shelving unit. The fact is that the vertical planes will be visible from both sides, and the composite parts are best fastened together with staples from the working ends and this very edge - from the glued ones. That is, the edge will have to be purchased not standard (22 mm), but wide, forty-millimeter.

Preparing rack parts

It makes no sense to cut laminated chipboard at home, unless you have a professional circular saw with a good blade in your closet. I advise you to entrust this operation to specialists, who can be found either in firms that make furniture to order, or in supermarkets selling building materials.

But, when making shelving with your own hands, you can also glue the edge at home, using an ordinary iron to heat up the adhesive base, the regulator of which must be set to about three-quarters of the maximum power.

The edge is applied to the end of the part, heated and pressed with a dry cloth.

Do-it-yourself wooden shelving

It is necessary to run the rag several times to be sure that the edges of the plastic fit well - this is the most vulnerable spot. Trim off excess edges with a dull (for the safety of the laminate) knife and sand the edges with fine-grained sandpaper. Do not be too zealous with grinding, otherwise you risk making a chamfer, which is completely useless on chipboard furniture.

Shelving assembly

Describing the preliminary preparation, I have already mentioned that I prefer confirmations as screeds. I will justify my choice: no tricks in preliminary preparation. Remember only two basic operations and your "golden key":

We drill through holes with a diameter of 8 millimeters into the plane.
At the end of the parts - with a diameter of 5 mm and to a depth of approximately 60 mm.

The hand wrenches sold with confirmations are almost always disposable and quickly fail, so I recommend buying a hex bit for a screwdriver.

How to make racks original and unique? I will answer simply: Position the vertical planes "as God puts on the soul"! The main thing is that the holes for the fasteners match, and the rack itself is purely structurally stable.

With a width of 1200 millimeters and double the thickness of the laminated chipboard, you can even make the so-called "knight's move" - group the verticals in the left and right parts of the rack floor by floor. There should be enough room for imagination.

If you intend to make several identical designs, do not spread your thoughts along the tree and save your time. I made a double-sided template from one horizontal line and simply turned it over to achieve the appearance of asymmetry.

In fact, such “simple” furniture really resembles an elementary “fence” when you see it in the drawing. However, to the question “how to make a rack yourself?” many professionals can lecture from here to China because the options are endless. It is worth understanding the manufacturing principle - and you will come up with your own, original, unlike anything project!

Good luck to you.

Racks for fasteners

Our company represents shelving for car fasteners. If you want to open a car shop or a service station, then you will definitely get such a rack sooner or later.

Our racks come from the reinforced class, so it is possible to store heavy parts in them. Each box can be divided by special partitions, if necessary. We provide racks for autofasteners at affordable prices.

Cassettes and racks for fasteners

(partitions are included in the kit - 1 pc. for each cell)

Advantages of our product:

convenience,
ease of maintenance
adaptation to parts of different sizes.

By the way, such an accessory for auto fasteners as cassettes can also be used in an ordinary garage, as a locker for storing small items, bolts, nuts, self-tapping screws, rivets and other things. Cabinets for auto fasteners have a beautiful appearance and will decorate any service station or car shop.

How to make handy shelves and shelving for the garage with your own hands from wood and metal

They can be installed both indoors and outdoors. The plastic from which these cabinets are made is very durable. Our store can also send you a separate drawer for parts if for some reason yours is broken. It is recommended to sign on the boxes the names of those parts that are stored in it, this will greatly facilitate the work. We have a range of cabinets for 60 cells and 48 cells.

Each cassette holder comes with a sheet of self-adhesive labels.

Dear buyers! You can order boxes for fasteners from us.

The boxes are made of high quality hard plastic. The box can be divided into several sections with transparent partitions.

Sizes available for order(LxWxH, cm) :

30x11.7x9 cm - divided into 4 sections;
30x23.4x9 cm - divided into 4 sections;
40x11.7x9 cm - divided into 6 sections;
40x23.4x9 cm - divided into 6 sections;

Specify the prices and conditions of delivery by phones.

In the Auto fastener stands section, you will find information on how you can visually present auto fasteners in your shop or car service.

HOW TO ASSEMBLE A RACK

Quick assembly metal racks can be assembled without the use of special tools and the help of specialists. All necessary fasteners are included in the package of shelving shelves and racks. Excellent quality fittings and thoughtful design, allows you to quickly and easily carry out the process of assembly and disassembly of the structure.

Want to build your own shelving? We'll help you figure it out step by step...

Let's start assembling the rack.

STEP #1

1. We fasten one thrust bearing to each rack with two bolts and nuts, not forgetting the washers.

2. We determine the installation locations of the upper and lower shelves, counting from the holes or marking the installation locations with a marker. Install the corners at the installation sites of the upper and lower shelves by screwing them with one bolt through the bottom hole of the corner.

As a result, you will get

3. Prepare all racks in this way

STEP #2

1. Lay two racks in parallel, and to them , attach the lower and upper shelves to the places of reinforcement with corners.

2. On the installed shelves, place the racks on top and fasten them in the same way.

You should end up like this:

STEP #3

1. Install all intermediate shelves in the required quantity.

2. Install the rack in a vertical position and check the correctness of the geometry of the structure (absence of distortions, etc.).

3. Perform final tightening of all bolted connections.

STEP #4

If you need to install blank walls , then we perform the following step:

How to make shelves in the pantry with your own hands?

Loosen the bolted connections until there is a gap between the uprights and the shelves.

2. Insert one of the sides of the wall into the resulting gap.

3. Having slightly bent the wall (within the limits of elastic deformations), insert the opposite wall into the gap.

4. Tighten bolted connections.

We carry out a similar operation with the remaining walls, if necessary.

Corner shelving assembly

1. For installing corner shelves. it is necessary to remove fasteners from the end sides of both sections, if it was already installed.

2. In the places where the corner shelves are fastened, install reinforcing corners, fixing them with one lower bolt (on both sections).

3. Attach the corner shelves to both sections through the corners.

4. Attach the upright, pre-assembled with the corners and the thrust bearing, to the corner shelves.

Installing additional items

Additionally, you can install on the rack:

1. Limiting strips (attached to the racks with two bolts)

2. Cross dividers (simply put on top of the shelf)

3. Longitudinal dividers (attached to the uprights with four bolts)

Sometimes it becomes necessary to place a large number of the same type of things in a small space. The easiest solution is to make a wooden rack with your own hands. It can freely accommodate the necessary utensils, crafts, books and a home wine collection. To do it, you do not need to have special skills. It is enough to find tools, materials and spend some free time.

Preliminary work

A wooden rack is a rather spacious structure, which consists of a number of shelves (cells) connected together and standing on racks, a stand or directly on the floor. The number of tiers depends on the height of the room and the preferences of the owner.

Racks are:

stationary;
mobile (on wheels).

The main stages of production:

Preliminary stage. Drawing development.
Main works. Selection of materials and tools. Shelving assembly.
The final stage. Painting, pasting, etc.

The further fate of the rack depends on the first stage. The wrong choice of material or plan can nullify efforts. To complete the drawing, it is necessary to measure the location of the structure, if a stationary option is assumed.

When making a rack for tools, food preparations or household items, it is better to prefer simple, straight shapes. To do this, determine the height of the structure and the width of the shelves, which are often made up to the ceiling.

To install small accessories, spans up to 1.5 m long can be made, and for heavy items (books, jars of pickles or jams), 90 cm or less is recommended. This will prevent deformation of the shelves (deflection). For wines, it is better to make separate cells.

The width of the rack depends on the available space.
The usual length is not more than 1.5 m, but if there are 40-50 mm boards ─ it is increased to 2-2.5 m.
The depth of the shelves depends on the items that will be located on them. For example, for clothes, the optimal value is 50–60 cm, and for screwdrivers and pliers, you need no more than 5 cm. One rack can have shelves of different depths.
The approximate height of the tiers is 25-60 cm. If you need to store large items, for example, tires from a truck, it is recommended to reconsider the dimensions.

It is advisable to use natural boards (oak, beech, pine, mahogany). They should be treated with special compounds and antiseptics and allowed to lie down for several days. It is not recommended to use material made from sawdust or shavings (chipboard, for example). It quickly collapses.

When developing a drawing, one should not forget about the free space horizontally (between two objects) and vertically (the gap from the edge of the tallest thing to the top tier). The minimum distance should be 3 cm.

It is necessary to place accessories correctly so that the load on the middle of the shelves is small. It is recommended to stack bulky and heavy items at the bottom, and lighter ones at the top.

DIY wooden bookcase

First, it is advisable to choose a drawing of the future design in the global network, special editions, or develop your own original version. Classic shelving with and without a base looks like this.

Necessary tools and materials:

boards 2–4 cm thick;
slats 4 × 4 or more;
holders, wooden bars, metal corners on which the shelves will rest;
plywood for walls;
self-tapping screws, screws;
wood glue;
varnish, brush;
jigsaw, grinder, electric drill;
screwdriver, hammer;
pencil and tape measure.

Step-by-step instruction

After the development of the drawing and the purchase of everything necessary, they begin to manufacture parts. The process must be approached responsibly.

Sequence of operations:

Many people make the rack open from the back. In this case, it is necessary to screw all the shelves to the sidewalls, and to strengthen special corners at the top and bottom, which will prevent the structure from warping.

wine rack

The main component of the wine cellar is not just a set of shelves or a cabinet where bottles are stored. This is special furniture, which should provide the best conditions for the preservation and maturation of alcoholic beverages.

Tools and materials:

boards, plywood, bars, slats;
wire;
metal rods;
self-tapping screws, nails, screws;
saw, jigsaw;
drill with simple drills and cylindrical;
screwdriver, hammer.

Vertical option

A regular rack can be made in different ways. It consists of compartments, each of which fits one bottle. Many people make cabinet-like structures using planks for uprights and horizontal shelves.

You can do this in a different way. This significantly reduces costs.

How to do:

Their minimum size is calculated as follows. The distance between each two verticals (ladders) should be equal to the diameter of the bottle plus 5 cm. This value is multiplied by the number of openings. The product of the number of verticals and the width of the beam is added to the figures obtained.

A timber 5 × 5 cm was selected, the number of racks was 15, openings were 14, the distance between them was 10 cm.

Then we get: 5×15+10×14=75+140=215 cm.

Horizontal option

Another type of rack is made of boards and beams. It is similar in many ways to the vertical version.

Racks are made of boards. They are connected by horizontal structures resembling stairs. Each such element is made of two longitudinal bars, on which transverse rails are fixed, the distance between which is slightly less than the diameter of a conventional vessel with alcohol.

This option is more versatile, since even bottles of different sizes are freely placed on one tier. Increasing the width of the transverse rails and the distance between the shelves will allow you to lay large vessels.

Diagonal variant

This type of wine placement is practiced everywhere. Any person can perform it. To do this, it is enough to have some kind of wooden box or knock it down yourself.

When making your own, you need:

For tools

There are many designs of racks for storing a variety of tools. There are classic and original options. They can be made by hand.

Required fixtures and materials:

plywood, beams, slats, boards;
self-tapping screws, nails, screws;
hammer, screwdriver;
jigsaw, saw.

To assemble the easiest option is enough:

If the wall is easily drilled, then this option is also possible.

Here, the tiers of shelving are screwed directly to the wall. To do this, holes are drilled in it, in which the dowels are recessed. Corners are screwed to the shelves, with the help of which they are attached to the wall.

The final stage is finishing. This operation can be carried out in different ways. For example, paint a rack, sand it, and then cover it with drying oil or varnish, paste over with paper or other suitable material.

So that the "good" in the garage does not interfere with the movement, it is necessary to somehow organize its storage. The most convenient shelving for the garage. If there is enough space, they can be made on the entire wall or even on several walls. If there is no place below, you will have to move upstairs - to make shelves under the ceiling. Not the best option, but sometimes the only one. Still, shelving in the garage standing on the floor is safer, especially if they are securely attached to the wall (to avoid unpleasant situations).

Which rack is better: welded or bolted

Shelving for the garage is made of wood and metal. Wooden mostly non-separable - on nails and self-tapping screws. They are usually installed permanently, fixed to the wall. Metal racks can be welded. Then they are indestructible. There are racks on bolted connections. These structures are mobile and can be disassembled if necessary. Their disadvantage is insufficient rigidity, since there is always some backlash in such a connection. To make the structure more stable, it is attached to the walls. To do this, metal plates with a hole can be welded (bolted) to the extreme racks. Drive a crutch into this hole (after drilling a hole of a slightly smaller diameter in the wall).

One of the options is a frame made of a profile pipe and plywood shelves.

Both welded and bolted shelving for the garage serve well, but welded structures are more common. The collapsible option is chosen in two cases. The first is that it is possible to move to another garage and all the equipment will have to be transported, and the structure weighs hundreds of kilograms, so it is problematic to move it entirely. The second is that there is no possibility or desire to use welding (if the garage racks are made by hand). The rest usually prefer welded ones - they are more stable and, with welding experience, are assembled faster.

On sale there are still metal racks made of perforated corners. They are also mobile and can be disassembled, but they are connected using hooks (on the crossbars) and grooves (on the racks). Such storage systems are convenient - you can rearrange the shelves to the desired height. Their disadvantage is that they are expensive.

Designs and dimensions

Structurally, shelving for the garage consists of racks, crossbars and shelves. Sometimes, to increase rigidity, transverse puffs are also made on the back side - two steel strips welded / screwed diagonally to the extreme racks. They compensate for side loads increasing overall stability and reliability.

Dimensions - the height and depth of the shelves - are chosen almost arbitrarily - depending on what you intend to store. The only thing that needs to be carefully selected is the span length - the distance between the racks in one section. It depends on the stiffness of the material you decide to use: the shelves should not sag even when fully loaded. For heavy things / objects, the span is about 1.5 meters, if the load is not too large, the distance can be increased to 2 meters, but it’s definitely not worth doing more. If you need a longer garage rack, put intermediate racks, the distance between which can still not be more than 2 meters.

A few words about the height of the shelves in the rack. The lowest shelf can be raised from the floor level by 50-70 cm (even more if desired). This is where the heaviest items are usually placed. The rest of the shelves can be made at different heights, 30 cm is inconvenient and impractical. In general, a 1.5 liter plastic bottle should optimally fit on a shelf, and this is 35-37 cm. This distance is convenient for use.

What are they made of

As already mentioned, shelving for the garage is made of wood and metal. Wooden ones are lighter in weight, it is easier to work with wood, but they do not withstand such heavy loads. Metal ones are heavier (many times heavier), but an elephant can also be laid on them.

There is also the issue of price. Rolled metal is not cheap at all these days. If you buy everything in the market or in a store, at the price of one rack (along with consumables) you will cost almost the same amount as the finished one. The only real way to save money is to buy metal at the metal base in whole whips (there are 6 m and 12 m), and then cut into pieces of the desired length. Slicing can be right at the base, you will have to pay extra for services, but the amounts are very small. In this case, you will be able to reduce costs by about 20-30%.

Lumber is less expensive than metal. But do not think that the costs will be small: you will have to buy high-quality wood without knots, and this is the “elite” or “premium” class with a corresponding price tag. So it won't be very cheap.

from wood

Operating conditions in the garage are far from the best - high humidity, frost, alternate freezing / freezing, sometimes hot. Not very good for wood. Therefore, all material must be treated with antibacterial and protective compounds before work. Take wood products for outdoor use, as conditions in an unheated garage are more like them. You can choose a tool that simultaneously tints the surface to be treated and your product can not be painted. After processing, the materials are dried and only then work begins.

When connecting parts of a wooden shelving, you can use the standard methods for carpenters - in a quarter or half-paw. If this is difficult for you, you can also nail butt, and use metal corners and / or overhead plates to reinforce the connections.

Another point: it is better to connect on nails, and not on self-tapping screws. It turns out more stable, less connections "loose". If you choose the option with reinforcement with plates, they can be mounted on self-tapping screws.

Now in terms of size: for racks, a beam of 50 * 50 mm is usually used, for the crossbars, you can use the same beam or a little thinner - 50 * 30 mm. Flooring is made from:

boards with a thickness of at least 21 mm;
moisture resistant plywood with a thickness of 10 mm;

The cheapest are board and plywood. Laminated chipboard is much more expensive, but it does not need to be painted, and this is a good plus. In order not to spend a lot, you can take the first and last sheets in a pack at the bases - they are scratched and are much cheaper.

Wooden shelving in the garage - drawing with dimensions

Another point: the side cut remains open on the shelves made of chipboard. If it is not processed, when the humidity rises, the chips will swell, the shelf will warp. To prevent this from happening, coat the edges with silicone. With such processing, nothing will happen to chipboard.

metal

If you decide to make metal shelving for the garage, the choice of materials is wider - there are two options for rolled metal, plus standard storage solutions (perforated corners). You can also use metal parts designed for other purposes - for example, steel cable racks or cable channels that are used in communication are suitable.

Cable channels and shelves - convenient and not very expensive

So, what is the frame of a metal shelving in the garage made of:

From a metal corner with a metal thickness of 3-4 mm. The width of the corner shelf is 25-45 cm, depending on the planned loads. Durable, but metal-intensive material, weighs a lot, is expensive.
Profile pipe (rectangular in section). With a lower metal consumption (less wall thickness), compared to a metal corner, it has better elasticity characteristics (it is more difficult to bend), and is more resistant to torsion. Approximate dimensions for racks 50 * 50 mm or 40 * 40 mm, for cross bars 50 * 25 mm or 40 * 25 mm, respectively.
Racks are made from a professional pipe, and crossbars from a corner. The thickness of the metal is 2-3 mm, the width of the shelf is 25 mm or more. Unfold the corner so that the flooring to be laid is like in a "nest".

The flooring on the shelves is made from the same materials as for a wooden rack (board, plywood, OSB, chipboard), only sometimes non-standard options are added, which are used abruptly with a wooden frame due to the high mass - sheet metal.

The board remains optimal for most regions - a reliable, not very expensive material. It is necessary to take sexual, without knots (with a minimum of knots) with a thickness of 21 mm or more. Treat with antiseptics, then paint.

Plus metal shelves - high reliability with a small thickness, cons - price, weight and "loudness". They also need to be painted, but first they must be cleaned of rust, then go through with a rust converter and primer, then paint and preferably in two layers. Also, by the way, it is necessary to process the metal frame. Then the rack in the garage will not rust.

Features of the assembly of metal racks

Metal racks can be welded or bolted together. There are usually no issues with welding. If a corner is used, it can be overlapped - a difference of 3-5 mm when laying the shelves is invisible. If you wish, you can cut out the excess in one of the shelves, butt-weld, but trimming takes a lot of time, and you still won’t see much difference.

With the assembly of the frame for the bolted shelving, the procedure is as follows: first, the squares of the sidewalls and shelves are assembled separately, then they are twisted together. At least two bolts are desirable for each connection - for greater rigidity (less backlash).

If you assemble racks for a garage from a profile pipe with your own hands, the procedure is different. First, the sidewalls are assembled, short crossbars are attached to them. It turns out two rectangles with crossbars. Then they are connected by crossbars.

How to make connections, see the photo. In one case, welding is still needed - to weld the "heel pad", in the other you can do without it - cut out the "ears", bend and cling to them.

There is another way - special crab systems. These are metal plates with grooves molded to fit the profile. Pipes are laid in the grooves, then two plates are pulled together with bolts.

Such a connection is unlikely to withstand very large loads, but there is an undeniable plus - you do not need to drill a bunch of holes in the metal. In a profiled pipe, this is certainly easier than in a thick-walled corner, but it still takes a lot of time and effort.

By the way, the bolts are used M8 or M6, respectively, large holes are required for them. It is easier to first drill with a thin drill, then expand to the desired size with a thick one. But even with this order, you will need a solid amount of drills. So that they overheat less and break less often, put a jar of water next to it, periodically lower the drill there.

Layout, schemes, drawings, ideas

In the garage, you need not only a rack, but also a workbench and a stand for hand tools - all kinds of keys and other small things, which are many and it is difficult to come up with some specific convenient storage place.

The workbench can be made in the center of the rack. This is convenient - everything you need will be at hand, you do not have to constantly go to the shelves.

The workbench can be part of the system, or you can make two separate modules, between which you can install the required table. If you don’t like this arrangement, you can change the configuration - at least put it at an angle.

As for the tool stand. There is a factory option - a perforated sheet of metal with holders hung on it. The idea is very good, except for the price.

As usual, there are also a few DIYs (what a garage without them) on the same topic. The ideas are simple to implement, maybe not so elegant, but convenient:

And if desired, all this can be put on wheels - make the stand for the tool mobile. This is the case if in the warm season you prefer to work with the machine on the street.