Installation of a metal bath on a brick. Bath installation methods, depending on the material, on bricks. How to make brick supports

The traditional scheme of installing a bathtub on legs is not always able to guarantee the stability of the structure. The screw fastening under the action of loads begins to loosen over time, thereby reducing the statics. Therefore, the most reliable installation of a cast-iron or steel bowl is on strong supports made by means of brickwork.

If you decide to replace the bathing bowl, but don’t know where to start and how to implement everything correctly, we will tell you how the bathtub is installed on bricks and whether it can be done by hand.

Also, in the article you will find step-by-step instructions for mounting supports for various types of plumbing. To facilitate perception, the material contains thematic photos and videos.

Used everywhere in Soviet times, they do not lose popularity today. And the secret of popularity is easily explained by the high heat capacity of the iron-carbon alloy.

The heavy weight of the product itself, plus the weight of the person in it, with an unreliable support, can provoke a skew of plumbing during operation. And this will entail a violation of the angle, the likelihood of depressurization of nodal connections and the difficulty of normal draining of waste water into the sewer.

For all their merits, cast iron structures are very heavy; the same bath with dimensions of 160x80 cm with a bowl depth of 50 cm will weigh about 100-120 kg

A cast-iron bathtub installed on bricks can be freely used for taking water procedures by a person with almost any physique, without fear that the walls will bend and the bowl will warp.

As a supporting structure, you can build:

two separate platforms;
several pillars on the sides and corners of the bowl;
solid brickwork around the perimeter of the product.

Due to the heaviness of the structure, bricks are only made by two people. The work is carried out in several successive stages.

The specific moments of installing a cast iron bath on a brick base are demonstrated by a selection of photos:

Image gallery

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Tips for constructing supports and installing a bathtub:

Video review of the option of installing a bath on bricks:

How to foam the bath before installation can be found in the following video:

There is nothing complicated in the device of brick racks and frame. Therefore, when installing a bath on bricks, you can use any of the described methods. The main thing is to strengthen the weak points of the bath, while creating a strong and durable supporting structure.

If you have any questions about installing a bathtub on bricks or know another reliable and durable installation method, please share your knowledge with our readers. Leave comments and ask questions in the block below.

When buying a bath, you need to immediately consider its installation, and what it will stand on: factory legs or bricks. Some will prefer the first option, and when installing the bathtub, it turns out that the bathtub on them is unable to take the correct horizontal position and will be unstable, therefore the second type of support is the most practical, so we will consider it further.

Installing a cast iron bath on brick supports

Before installation, you need to free up space near the bathroom, and carefully take measurements. Since the cast-iron product is not easy, it is worth accurately determining its location, and to protect the door jambs that may suffer when making a bath, it is necessary to wrap them with a soft cloth, securing it with staples from a construction gun.

Before carrying out the installation procedure, two dozen red bricks, a container for mixing cement mortar, a trowel and a trowel should be prepared. The planned installation is not difficult, but it is difficult to redo it due to the large mass of the bath, so you should tune in to the correct installation and follow the tips described below exactly.

Bath installation algorithm:

Bring cast iron into the bathroom . Install the supplied feet.
Assemble the siphon . Check the correctness and reliability of its installation.
Blow out the bottom with mounting foam . This is necessary if you want to make the bath noise-absorbing. Only when applying foam, it is necessary to ensure that its layer does not protrude due to the collar of the cast-iron product, otherwise it will become loose against the wall.
Take bath measurements . To accurately make brick supports, measure the distance from the bottom of the product to the end of the legs. And you also need to find out the size between the legs, this parameter with an allowance of 10 mm will correspond to the size of the brickwork.
Mount the bath to the wall . This is a preliminary installation, in which you need to put it close to the wall, and adjust the slope of the front and rear sides so that the front part is higher than the one located near the wall, this will prevent water from flowing out of the bath. Then it needs to be taken out.
Mixing sand-cement mortar . The optimal ratio for its preparation is a mixture of 4 parts of quartz sand and 1 part of grade 400 cement. At the end, water is added to them, the amount of which is determined by the state of the mixture. It is better to start with small portions, and then top up as needed. If, nevertheless, the solution turned out to be watery, then cement should be added to it. For a stronger composition, half of the solution can be replaced with tile adhesive, due to which it will become more plastic.
Carry out the laying of supports . We must not forget about the slope towards the back wall. From each edge of the masonry it is necessary to lay half a brick. After that, the brick structure is left to stand for 24-48 hours to allow the cement mixture to harden.
Carry out final assembly. A layer of mortar should be laid out on the upper part of the bricks, on the central support it should be no more than 2 cm, a small depression should be made in it, repeating the shape of the bottom. On the shoulders of the bathtub, which are adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to apply tile adhesive, smearing the same places on the wall itself. Place the bathtub on brick supports and press it firmly against the wall.
Carry out installation supervision . It is necessary to control the slope of the bath, and if it is necessary to adjust it with the help of legs or by laying additional pieces of brick between the supports and the bottom, and if there are gaps in these places, then they must be sealed with mortar. In the case of applying mounting foam on one side, it must also be blown out from the front side, taking into account the size up to the shoulder, and not exceeding it.

After installing the bath, it is necessary to check the operation of the siphon: draw a small amount of water into the bathroom and open the drain, if nothing is leaking, then everything is fine.

If the bath will be installed on bricks without legs, then you should not overestimate its location. The optimal height is 70 cm, but in most cases the installation takes place at 60 cm, it is not advisable to carry out its installation above, since it will be inconvenient to climb into it.

Installation on a brick frame of an acrylic bath

The low weight of such a product can give a false impression, because in comparison with the cast-iron counterpart, it is a fluff and it seems that the reinforcement of the supports in the form of brickwork is superfluous. But this is a wrong opinion.

Firstly, a bathtub filled with water, no matter what material it is, weighs decently, and its legs, unable to withstand such a mass, disperse. Secondly, they rust over time and can easily crumble, because of this there are problems with the misalignment of the bath, and it affects the drain of water - it stagnates in the drain hole. There are cases when acrylic bathtubs burst under the weight of a large volume of water. Based on this, it becomes clear that brick supports must be installed under such products in order to extend their service life.

Acrylic bathtubs can be of different shapes: oval, rectangular with rounded edges, triangular and beveled, but the principle of installing brick supports remains the same for everyone. The main thing is to adjust them to the bottom of the selected acrylic product. The best solution to enhance the strength of the acrylic product would be to install a frame that can be made in conjunction with the brickwork of the supports.

The algorithm for carrying out installation work is as follows:

Prepare the room and materials . Carry out wall cladding with the selected material, pick up bricks and paste over them with a rolled guerlain. This material contains a fabric layer that serves as a separator between the cement mortar and the wall. This kind of compensator can change its shape and geometry when the water temperature changes.
Attach mounting hooks to the wall . They are in hardware stores, and if desired and the availability of the necessary material (steel plates), such parts can be made independently. They are hooked to the side of the bath adjacent to the wall.
Carry out the installation of brick supports . It is performed in the same way as for the previous type of baths. You can perform not two, but three supports. Their height and the procedure for laying is carried out according to the previously described option.
Carcass execution . Some craftsmen make a frame from the corners, but it is not as durable as the brick version, during the creation of which they lay out a kind of niche from a quarter of a brick. Only a centimeter gap must be provided between the wall and the bathroom. A flat design around the entire perimeter of the bath will create reliable protection for the walls of the product, only you need to take into account the execution of the service window. If it is not done, then if it is necessary to check the siphon and sewer pipes hidden under the bathroom, you will have to disassemble all the brickwork. If there are not enough bricks, then you can limit yourself to supports only at the corners of the bath.
Seal the gaps between the bathroom and the wall . Mounting foam, silicone tape or sealant will help.

An acrylic bathtub can be installed first on the legs, fixing them in the created bed of cement, and then reinforcing them with brick supports that fit between the legs and in the middle of the bottom.

How to install a steel bath on brick supports? + video instruction

Due to their unreliable design, the legs welded to the bath do not create a stable position. This video shows how to use bricks to fix the bathtub so that it is in the correct position and becomes rigidly fixed.

Due to the instability of the bath, it is impossible to make a border between it and the wall - it is constantly collapsing. To eliminate these problems, you can use the usual red bricks and construction adhesive. The work progress is as follows:

Raise the bath . For ease of installation, you can use a jack and raise it to the desired height. The standard height to the bottom of the bath is 60 cm, that is, you need to be guided by this size. But on different models of bathtubs, their depth varies by several centimeters, so everything should be carefully died out before major installation.
Lay out brick racks . There will be two. From both edges of the bath, you need to step back the same distance and mark the place for installing bricks on the floor. The first of them must be installed with the smaller side close to the wall, before that, lubricating its lower part with tile adhesive. Then to it butt to put the next brick. That is, the racks are made in half a brick. The height turned out to be three bricks lying on top of each other.
Bath installation . Tile adhesive is applied to the surface of the topmost brick. Then the jack is lowered and the tub is fixed on the bricks. The legs of the bathtub also need to be glued to create more reliable supports.
Close up the empty space between the wall and the bathroom . For large gaps, you can cut a narrow strip of foam and install it with a regular sealant. Where the distance to the wall is small, they simply seal it with sealant.

A steel bath is very noisy, with a high pressure, the rumble of water hitting it can be heard throughout the house, to prevent this during installation, glue its bottom with any noise-absorbing material or apply polyurethane foam to it.

The considered options for mounting the bathtub on brick supports guarantee a long service life of the product, they enhance its strength, and when using mounting foam, increase sound absorption. To create them, you do not need special skill, so the installation of bathtubs is easy to do by yourself. You can learn about other installation nuances from.

I'll tell you how I brick an ordinary metal bath. Before us is a metal bathtub, there are legs in the kit. The task is to install a bathtub so that even a hundred-kilogram person would jump into it from acceleration, but it would not move.

For my customers, I recommend reinforcing the bathtub with an additional brick wall. It is done like this: Before installing to the wall, we fasten the legs, fasten the siphon (the legs and siphons are different, so I won’t dwell on this, the question is different), we prepare the metal bath for foaming (the foam reduces the noise of pouring water, plus the metal bath holds better warm).

We screwed it up, now we turn the bath over and carefully wipe the surface with a rag (this is enough, it is not necessary to degrease). Then we apply foam to the surface of the bath, foam everything except the front side, in this place we will have a brick wall. A 1.70-ton tub will take three large tubes of foam.

Leave for half a day, wait until the foam dries. The foam has dried, we attach the bath to the wall, set it according to the level (we catch zero, we catch zero with legs, they usually have threaded studs, they are adjustable, at the end we fix the studs with nuts and locknuts). Many people think that the back of the tub needs to be raised for better drainage, but this is not the case. The manufacturer decided everything for us, a slope has already been made at the bottom of the bathroom, the bath should be at zero.

The line on the floor will be our guide, from it (from the line) we retreat another couple of centimeters (these centimeters are needed for tiles plus glue). We put the first bricks, put them on the edge. Naturally, the brick is placed in a run.

After a couple of minutes of work, we understand that the higher, the more problematic, a whole brick no longer fit. The sides of the baths can be of different widths, but a whole brick will still not rise above three rows. We also do not forget that the tile should lie a couple of millimeters deeper than the side of the bathroom, so it will be easier for a person taking a bath to get up, there is something to catch on, a flush tile is a less convenient option.

Well, above the bricks that are wider, I just plaster, I use pieces of brick as "ballast" (we buy brick with slots, this one is better suited for this work).

If the bath is shorter than the wall (and this is a common occurrence), then we fill the void with the same brick, we don’t reach the edge, about two centimeters, we leave room for the tile, we get an additional shelf, we put the tile on this “shelf” with a slight slope so that the water flowed into the bath.

In general, everything remains, in the masonry, to mount a plumbing door, you can build a frame for it, or you can get by with a brick. We install a sanitary door in the siphon area, through it you can not only clean the siphon, but even replace it.

The bath is installed "dead", in a couple of days you can jump in it. It has been checked dozens of times, I often work from the side of such a bathtub, I work on the ceiling (lining, drywall, and so on), my weight is a centner, the bathtub can easily withstand it.

Well, in the end, I’ll add, some people think that the solution harms the metal, but these are all fairy tales, the inner surface, metal baths, it is painted and it is not afraid of the solution, I contemplated the fruits of my work and ten years after its completion, everything is fine, the bath will stand the same amount, the house will fall into disrepair earlier.

It takes me half an hour to make this wall, the frame cannot be built in such a time, and it will not strengthen the bath, I only make frames on cast iron.

Connoisseurs of high-class recreation will never exchange a comfortable spacious bath with fragrant, therapeutic fillers and hot water for a shower cabin that is now fashionable. Incomparable bliss can only be experienced in the font. You can completely relax, but only on condition of its stable stability. The method of installing the bath depends on the type of room (combined with a bathroom or autonomous) and its area, the size of the bath itself, the presence of other plumbing fixtures and household appliances, furniture, etc. The installation of the bath on bricks ensures maximum stability. At the very beginning, we want to note that ergonomic requirements require maintaining a distance of about 0.9 m from the bathtub rim.

Installing the bath on legs does not guarantee its stability: the screw fastening loosens over time, reducing static. The most reliable location of the cast-iron bowl is on a solid brickwork. But just placing the bowl on such a “pedestal” is not enough.

It is necessary to do the work with high quality, which means that, slowly, step by step, install it so that there is no gap between the side of the bathtub and the wall where water enters, and then, over time, mold forms. First you need to understand that cast iron products are heavy in themselves, and given the average dimensions of bathtubs 80x160 at a height of 50 cm, it is clear why installation must be done by at least two people.

The cast iron bath must be installed on a brick base.

Note: despite the seeming archaism of such baths, they are actively used, tk. the heat capacity index of cast iron exceeds all other materials at times!

Brick base for a cast-iron bath

Just a few steps, and the bath will be installed on a solid foundation. For this you need:

Measure the room and the bath, consider its location in relation to other household appliances and plumbing equipment.
Prepare bricks. They need just enough to lay out a scaffolding 2-3 bricks high across the bath. On average, 20 pieces. To get a notch (bed), another half-brick is laid along the edges. Depending on the length of the product, the number of rows is calculated, given that the optimal distance between them is 50 cm. The height of the bathtub on bricks from the sides to the floor should not be higher than 0.7 m, so that it is convenient to climb into it. The height of the front scaffold is 17 cm, and from the other end it is performed 2 cm higher.
Masonry is done on a sand-cement mortar: for one part of cement there are 4 parts of sand with water mixed in. The edges of the container are attached to the wall with tile adhesive. For greater reliability, the side surfaces of the bath adjacent to the wall are processed in the same way, and the wall itself too. This ensures, firstly, a strong “wall-bath” connection, and secondly, the adhesive base creates a seal of the seams. Ideally, for good adhesion of the mortar with bricks, it is necessary to give the masonry time to stand for at least a day.
A siphon with overflow is mounted on a bath that has not yet been installed. To do this, turn the bowl on its side and equip the drain hole for the siphon with rubber sealed gaskets that prevent water from leaking. In order not to have to “turn” the container again soon, it is better to immediately take care of a high-quality reliable siphon. The sewer pipe with a drain must necessarily be below the outlet of the siphon.
A bathtub is installed on the prepared surface at the level laid on the bottom, horizontally without a slope. But the outer edge is literally half a centimeter higher than the inner one (so that there is no spillage of water over the edge onto the floor).
Proper installation of a cast-iron bath on bricks involves connecting the drain to the sewer hose in two ways: a strong and more reliable rigid connection: a plastic pipe and an elbow with an angle of 45 ° and 90 ° are used; a flexible and movable compensating plastic corrugation is connected hermetically with a sealant to the sewer inlet.
Free supply of hot and cold water pipes and drainage systems should be ensured. It is important to immediately make sure that the installation is correct. To do this, the container is filled with water and the drain opens. If the liquid does not leave immediately, with delays, then there is a distortion.
One more nuance. Before installing the bath, the distance from its rear end to the wall is calculated. If an excess area is expected, it must also be bricked. As an alternative - a support box under the bowl, just below the rim.

The last "touch" is facing the brick base with ceramic tiles or installing a screen. Be sure to leave a working hole for possible access to the siphon.

The bathtub on bricks should be at a height sufficient for a normal siphon device

Brick side for a steel bath

The technology for installing different bathtubs is generally the same. The undoubted advantage of steel sanitary containers - their low weight (about 30 kg) - is one of the reasons for the instability.

The steel bath can be installed on metal profiles, and then the structure is completed with brickwork

Installation work is carried out even before the walls are tiled. Bricks under the bath before installation are pre-pasted with a rolled plastic gerlen, and the walls are treated with a moisture-proof composition. A layer of fabric at its base serves as a separating element (compensator) between the cement mortar and the body, changing its geometric parameters and shape depending on heating or cooling with water. For better adhesion and elimination of air zones between surfaces, tile adhesive is applied to the layer.

A “shirt” made of the same guerlain, in which the entire iron bath is completely packed, not only increases strength, but also serves as an excellent sound insulator, drowning out the noise of falling water.

Between the red brick columns, with a bathtub filled with water, polyurethane foam is blown from below. As the foam expands as it solidifies, it can lift the light container off the racks. The weight of the water keeps the tub on the bricks. Foam heat insulator is also a good sound absorber. Finishing work is carried out with the provided hatches for the revision of plumbing units.

It is important to note that a steel sanitary ware needs to be grounded. The best way to do this is to use an industrial tested grounding device.

A comfortable, spacious, well-installed bath will help you enjoy taking water procedures. This is easy to do if you follow the sequence of work on its installation.

If there is a bath at home, then this provides comfort. But gradually, the legs of the structure may fail. In this case, it is possible to install the bath on bricks. The procedure can be performed independently, if you familiarize yourself with the features of the work. Installation principles are presented in the article.

Advantages of the method

From the photo, installing a bathtub on bricks looks attractive. This method is suitable for fixing containers made of steel, acrylic, cast iron, which can be done independently. It is advisable to choose a red solid brick that can withstand heavy weight, exposure to water and harmful microflora.

Although each bathtub has standard metal legs, the plumbing fixtures are installed by craftsmen on a brick base. This is necessary to evenly distribute the load, to ensure greater stability. This installation method has the following advantages:

Sustainability. During the installation of structures, high-quality stability is ensured. This indicator is especially important for steel and acrylic products, which are light in weight. Models made of these materials with poor-quality fastening sway, stagger, slide, which is unsafe.
Protection against wall deformation. which supports the bottom, does not allow deformation of the walls, so the enamel can last a long time. The walls of thin-walled structures deteriorate from weight, which causes the enamel coating to crack and then peel off. This method eliminates the noise during filling of water, which is usually observed in metal bathtubs.
Versatility. Brick legs are installed on all bathtubs, regardless of weight, shape, size. In addition, the method will help to raise the container to any height.

Installing a font on bricks on your own will cost more than mounting on standard legs. Costs consist of the price of bricks and cement-sand mixture. The least material is needed to create brick columns, then this method is not much more effective than the classic one.

Masonry options

Bath tubs are different. This is determined by the specifics of the room, the characteristics of the bath, production needs, the capabilities and imagination of a person. The following types are popular:

Two supports in the form of small walls. Usually they are made with a concavity at the top in the shape of the vessel.
A solid pedestal that serves as a support for the foundation.
Brick walls along the edges of the tank. This view is often used during the installation of a corner acrylic structure.

There are no very big differences in the technology of creating these masonry. The differences are only in the amount of material and the amount of labor. Although there is still debris during the dismantling of the bathroom, cleaning and preparation are considered mandatory procedures.

If it is planned to install a brick base, but an old bathtub is placed, dismantling is performed first. Work must be done in special clothing and protective equipment. This job is dirty. Before dismantling, communications are turned off: water taps are shut off. Still need to take out supplies and accessories.

Furniture and sanitary ware are removed from the room. The room is cleared of everything that will interfere. Often, when a major overhaul is carried out, therefore, tiles, tiles are removed, paint and other facing materials are removed. Everything is done quickly. These works allow you to carry out high-quality repairs.

Training

Do-it-yourself installation of a bathtub on bricks without legs begins with preparatory work. Attention should be paid to leveling the floor, waterproofing. If tile is to be laid, cement mortar is needed for strength. The installation of an acrylic bath on bricks, as well as a steel tank, is carried out according to a single technology.

Due to the weak construction adhesive mixture applied by the ridge method, small voids remain under the tiles. This position should not be allowed so that the weight of the bath does not crack or break the tile. The walls are tiled with tiles when the overall structures are installed. The service life of the bath will be long if the work is done well.

Why is it required?

Installing a bathtub on bricks is not a new solution, this method has been in demand for decades. This is a reliable method in which the structure is securely fixed, stable, will be installed in the right place, and will be used for a long time.

As can be seen from practice, bricks are a more durable option than the "native" legs that are included. After 10-12 years, the supports warp, after which the deformation of the product is observed, due to which the water does not completely drain into the sewer after water procedures. If the bath is taken by a full person, then only with brick supports will there be confidence that the product will withstand. Over time, the legs rust, which does not threaten the bricks.

materials

In order for the installation of a bathtub on bricks to be of high quality, it is not necessary to buy a lot of expensive electrical appliances or cheap materials. This will require the presence of:

bricks - at least 15 pieces;
sand, dry cement, mixing containers;
sealant;
metal profile, grinder, self-tapping screws;
trowel;
level;
protective rubber pads.

The sealant should be taken tape, which simplifies the work of isolating the seams. Bricks should be taken red or white, which do not have voids inside. Protective pads are needed only for a steel bath, and the number of bricks is increased, since the weight of such a structure is greater. The level is needed for horizontal installation of the tank.

Taking measurements

It is necessary to carefully and accurately measure the location of the bath using a tape measure or a long ruler. If the container is purchased or there is an old one, then you need to place it in the workspace. Then the exact dimensions are taken from the bathroom. You will need data on the length, width, depth, distance from the ends to the desired area for placing the supports. The best distance between two rows of bricks is 50 cm, but it all depends on the length of the bowl.

Location in the room

Before installing the bath on bricks, you need to make sure that the container fits snugly against the wall. Otherwise, water will be poured into the distance between it and the structure, which will cause mold. The ends of the container should touch the walls tightly, so the gaps after installation must be filled with sealant. It is important to determine at what height it is more profitable to place the structure. The indicator will be equal to the height of one brick.

The slope of the bath must be done towards the drain to prevent stagnation of water. It is advisable to create brick racks, while the height of the rear should be 19 cm, and the front - 17. If the container is made taking into account the slope for the drain, then laying out racks of different heights is not required.

Installation of props

We continue to install the bath on the bricks with our own hands. When measurements are taken and the placement site is marked, we begin to prepare a sand-cement mortar. To do this, you need cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 4.

First, the first row is laid for one support and leveled until the solution dissolves. This procedure is carried out by level. Then bricks of 2 and 3 levels are installed. At the end of the construction work, 1/2 bricks must be laid on the mortar in the outer parts so that there is a recess in the shape of the bath. It takes days to freeze.

Do not rush to place the bath on the dried masonry, first you need to mount the siphon with overflow. To do this, turn the iron bowl upside down and process the water holes with any hermetic means. Then the siphon with overflow is mounted independently, and then the container is installed on a brick pedestal.

Installation

Before installing on bricks with your own hands, you need to place gaskets. It is advisable to do the work independently, together, and even better - three of us. First, a level is placed at the bottom of the container. The structure is then lowered onto the bricks.

According to the level, the bath is installed in this way only if its design is classic - the bottom is horizontal. If the bottom is made with a slope, then the level must be applied not inside, but outside. The procedure is carried out slowly, without haste. It is important to ensure that the edge fits snugly against the walls.

The next step in installing a meter-long steel bath on bricks will be to check the strength and stability. You need to take hold of the edge of the container and pull it gently to the side, as if swinging. If movement is observed, then the structure is uneven, then it is necessary to inspect the work and place a piece of brick, if necessary, reinforcement with mortar or glue is performed. Optionally, the edge can be glued to the wall with a profile or fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws using a profile.

Fixing and installing the pipe

To install a steel bath on bricks, additional anchor points are needed, since the containers are light and unstable. It is advisable to make a wall or brick racks under each of the 2 nearest corners. If the container adjoins only one side to the wall, then it is necessary to build piers, and if the steel vat is limited on 3 sides, then brick columns are needed.

The next step in installing an acrylic bath on bricks is to attach the drain to the sewer pipe sleeve. You need a plastic pipe and an elbow with angles of 90 and 45 degrees. A flexible plastic corrugation is connected to the sewer outlet. This must be done tightly so that nothing flows out when the water is drained. Sealant is used for a tight fit. It takes time to dry and harden, otherwise it will not be able to properly seal all the holes.

Installation of a cast-iron bath on bricks is carried out according to the above rules. After that, you need to check the reliability of the connections. To do this, fill the container with water and open the drain, after which they carefully monitor what is happening. It is important that water is removed quickly and freely, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe joints and under the bath so that it does not drip. The check is performed 2-5 times, after which the structure should rest, and then you need to repeat filling and draining the water.

It is important to follow the process of installing a bathroom on bricks. Errors can lead to negative consequences:

The top of the product should not be higher than 60 cm from the floor. Many novice craftsmen make mistakes in this, which reduces the period of operation of the product.
It is necessary to pay attention to the angle, the direction of the slope. This is required for the correct calculation of the placement of sewer pipes. Mistakes can lead to difficulties with draining water. Usually the difference between the height of the sides is 2 cm.
When forming a pedestal, it is important to take into account the dimensions, configuration of the product, as well as the material. Most of the difficulties will be with cast iron and metal structures. They are heavy, which creates a load on the base.
It is not necessary to fix the bath immediately after the completion of the brick support. Drying is done first.
Sometimes, with the help of construction foam, not only the brick base is processed, but also the outer part of the product. This is necessary for high-quality sound insulation. It is not necessary to cover the acrylic product, since it already has good sound absorption.
Adjust the angle of inclination with pieces of bricks and cement mortar. If you have to work with an acrylic container, then it is important to control that the sharp corners of the brick fragments do not pierce it.

Conclusion

If you have any doubts about the quality of the work, you can order it from a specialist. Now there are construction companies that do this work. The installation price is 2-3 thousand rubles. If the work is done professionally, it will be more likely that the mount is reliable.