Planting strawberry seeds for seedlings. Seedlings of garden strawberries and strawberries from seeds - how to grow at home? How to care for seedlings of strawberries from seeds

And growing it from seeds at home. We will learn how to germinate seed and get strong healthy seedlings for picking in open ground.

planting material requirements

Let's start with the choice of the optimal planting material, from which we will get remontant strawberries that bear fruit all season. You need to choose only from small-fruited varieties, as they are more unpretentious and bear fruit better in open ground.

These include the following:

• Alexandrina;
• Ali Baba;
• white soul;
• Alpine novelty;
• Yellow wonder.

If you buy more expensive seeds of large-fruited strawberries (and in fact - strawberries), then after opening the pack you will find that there are no more than 10-15 seeds in it, the germination of which leaves much to be desired. It is also worth remembering that larger fruits have worse taste and vitamin composition. For this reason, we do not recommend purchasing such seeds.

It is worth remembering that if in the future you want to collect seeds from already planted strawberries, then purchase varieties, not hybrids, since maternal qualities are not transferred to the seeds of hybrids (as is the case with the reproduction of many and in a generative way).

Important! Varieties "Milka" and "Seasons" refer to small-fruited mustachioed strawberries.

Soil and container for growing

Remontant strawberries, when grown from seeds, require a certain substrate and an appropriate container in which a kind of microclimate can be maintained.

As a soil, any light, medium fertility paired with sand and (3: 1: 1 ratio) is suitable. A few soaked peat tablets can be placed in the substrate, which will help the seedlings at an early stage. It is strictly forbidden to use any heavy clay soils, as moisture stagnates in them, which favorably affects the development of the fungus.

Speaking of protection against fungus, we smoothly move on to the choice of capacity. The best option would be any shallow transparent container with a lid. Such a container is best suited, since any light prevents the development of the fungus. You should not spend a lot of time looking for the perfect container, since an ordinary bowl from the supermarket is suitable for sowing.

Before planting, disinfect the container with alcohol or potassium permanganate, make several holes in the bottom to let excess moisture out.

Important! Do not buy the cheapest packaging option, as poor quality plastic can negatively affect young strawberries.

Sowing dates

Now let's talk about when to plant strawberry seeds for seedlings. There are several temporary options that depend on your desire to get tasty products as soon as possible, the regional location and the expected effort to grow strawberries.

The first option involves early sowing at the beginning of February so that in the same year you can enjoy delicious from young bushes. However, it should be understood that such sowing obliges you to carry out additional activities related to providing extended daylight hours and heating, and the seed germination itself will be slightly worse than in the second option.

The second option is spring planting. Sowing is carried out at the end of March - beginning of April. In this case, in the first year you will not receive finished products, however, the financial costs and time spent on caring for seedlings will be significantly reduced, as well as the percentage of unsprouted seeds.

Seed preparation

Before planting strawberry seeds for seedlings, you need to start preparing them to increase germination. The main process that will bring the seeds out of hibernation is (the effect of moisture and negative temperature on the protective layer of seeds).

Stratification is needed in order to naturally destroy the hard protective shell of the seed, which protects the kernel from moisture. That is, without stratification, seeds can lie in the ground for more than one year until the shell collapses. For this reason, it is impossible to do without additional preparation.

There are 2 options for stratification, which equally well bring the seed out of hibernation. Stratification with the help of snow (natural option). It’s worth saying right away that if you live in the southern regions, where snow falls every few years, then you don’t need to specifically look for it, since stratification methods do not differ much in terms of subsequent seed germination.

This option assumes sequencing:

1. We take a transparent container and fill it with earthen mixture, leaving about 2-3 cm to the edge.
2. We pour snow on top of the soil and lightly tamp it down to get a more or less even surface.
3. We put all the seed on the snow, leaving equal intervals. Seeds do not need to be pressed or buried in the snow.
4. We put the container in the refrigerator (not in the freezer!) For three days.

Using this method, we will kill two birds with one stone: we will destroy the protective shell and immerse the seeds to the desired depth. In the process of melting, the snow will pull the seeds into the soil to such a depth that strawberries fall in natural conditions.

"Technical" stratification using condensate. In this case, we will do without the use of snow, since it is not always possible to find it, especially when sowing in late March or early April.

We carry out such sequencing:

1. Fill the container with soil, leaving about 2 cm to the edge.
2. We spread the seeds on the surface of the soil at an equal distance from each other and press them a little into the soil. You can also mix the seeds with sand and simply scatter on the surface, but in this case it will be more difficult to control the density of crops.
3. We cover the container with a lid or several layers of cling film and place it in the refrigerator for three days.

There is a third method that is not related to stratification. The seed can be soaked in melted snow water for two days. To do this, we place the seeds in cotton wool, put them in a small bowl and pour cold water with snow into it. Next, we cover it all with a film, put it in heat and follow the process in order to plant the germinated seeds in time. Be careful not to let the cotton dry out.

Important! Soaking is not subject to granular or pre-treated seeds.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Above, we talked about the fact that the seeds are not buried in the ground, but placed on the surface, but it is worth discussing the sowing process in more detail. In addition to sowing on top of snow, paired with sand or on ordinary soils with subsequent pressing down, it is also possible to sow strawberries in prepared shallow furrows, which are located at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other.

Regardless of the method of sowing, you should always remember that covering planting material with soil is strictly prohibited. Even the strongest seeds will not be able to lift the ground to break through to the light. The soil in the container must be leveled and lightly moistened. Humidification is carried out with the help (using a syringe or fingers).

Crop care

After you have stratified the seeds, the container must be moved to a warm, bright place. The temperature in the room should not be lower than 20 ° C and higher than 25 ° C. There should be enough light, however, direct sunlight at noon should not fall on the container so that the soil does not dry out.

Since only daylight will not be enough, a fluorescent lamp is installed near the container, which should “work” from 6 am to 11 am. Cover must be removed daily(cover or film) to check the humidity and ventilate. Condensation must be wiped off during ventilation.

Important! The absence of condensation on the lid or film indicates a decrease in humidity. Accordingly, soil moisture is required.

Subject to all parameters, the first shoots will appear in 2-4 weeks, depending on the variety.

seedling care

Next, learn how to grow strong seedlings of strawberries from germinated seeds. After our seedlings germinate, we need to make holes in the lid / film for air circulation. After 3-4 days, the shelter is completely removed, gradually accustoming the plants to the external environment.

In the process of seedling growth, it needs the same temperature (not lower than 20 ° C) and moistened soil. Watering should be done with extreme caution. using a syringe or pipette. The liquid must be "lowered" along the walls of the container so as not to wash the seeds out of the soil.

Also, do not forget about additional lighting. After the greens hatch from the ground, getting any (morning, noon or evening) direct sunlight is extremely dangerous, as the leaves will immediately get burned. Thus, caring for seedlings is not much different from caring for crops. Observe the temperature regime and do not forget about daily inspection to keep the seedlings healthy.

Did you know? East Asia is considered the center of origin and initial development of strawberries.

Seedling dive

Picking is carried out after the formation of 2-3 leaves in a new place (in separate cups). This process is extremely complex, since it is very easy to damage young plants during transplantation. Any damage to the stem or roots will result in wilting.

The easiest way to transplant is to use plastic tweezers with cotton pads that will not concentrate pressure at one point. Each plant is carefully held during extraction from the ground, so as not to pull out fragile roots.

Important! If the root system bends upward, then the strawberries will not take root in a new place.

The soil in the new place should have approximately the same indicators as the previous one. The use of heavy soils is still prohibited. During planting in separate cups, seedlings should be deepened to the same depth as before transplantation.

After a few days, the seedlings are spudded in such a way that the earth reaches the point of growth. Such a procedure is carried out so that the stem, which is in the ground, takes on additional roots for better anchoring in the soil and increasing the volume of the entire root system.

hardening

Greenhouse conditions during the cultivation of seedlings cannot be repeated in the open field, therefore young plants need hardening. After 4 leaves are formed on young plants, strawberries can be hardened off.

This is done as follows: all containers with greens are taken out to a covered, ventilated balcony when warm weather sets in without sudden changes. This practice is repeated daily, increasing the time spent by seedlings outside greenhouse conditions. A few days before planting in open ground, the cups should be taken outside all day to complete the hardening process.

Important! A sharp drop in temperature or drafts will destroy the seedlings.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Seedlings with 6 true leaves are transferred to open ground. in the morning. It is best to place the bushes under the wide crown of a large tree so that the plants do not get sunburned. If such an arrangement is not possible, then shading is required in the first 2 weeks of the dived seedlings.

The distance between plants should be within 20-30 cm, so that there is enough area for the absorption of trace elements and nutrients from the soil. It is worth carefully monitoring the soil moisture by regularly watering or spraying (only in the evening or morning, when there is no sun). The planted strawberries will begin to bear fruit in 4-5 months, if the weather is favorable.

" Strawberry

The yield of strawberries directly depends on the quality of seedlings. Experienced gardeners grow berries from seeds on their plot. Seed material can be purchased or collected independently from ripe Victoria. In this article, we will look at how to plant a berry in a summer cottage, how to germinate seeds and propagate.

Traditionally, strawberries are grown by rooting tendrils and dividing bushes.. Seeds are rarely used. For some reason, planting seeds has not been widely used. To a greater extent, this is due to the fact that this is a very complex and painstaking process. However, this method ensures that seedlings of a good variety will be planted.

It happens that a very tasty berry is bought, but its variety is unknown. After collecting the seeds from this strawberry, you can breed it in your area. In caring hands, even a very rare variety will grow from purchased seeds, which can then be planted in a runt. Only repair species are suitable for landing. Germination of hybrid varieties is not guaranteed.

Where to get seeds for planting?

The best varieties of strawberries are widely represented on sale, you need to choose based on the characteristics of a particular species. There are early, mid-season and late varieties. You can buy them in specialized stores or online.

The best varieties for growing berries from seeds at home:

• Bagota
• Gourmand
• Sakhalin
• Muscat
• Fresco
• Rügen
• Geneva

Due to the high cost, seeds can be harvested on their own. The largest and most ripe berries should be selected. Cut off the top layer. The collected change of strawberries are washed, spread on paper and dried.

Store seeds inside a glass container; strawberry germination lasts 3-4 years.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Before you start growing strawberry seedlings. You should take into account the secrets shared by experienced gardeners.

So that the seeds sprout together, and the seedlings are strong and do not outgrow. Sowing work must be carried out on time. Sowing time for seedlings is the end of February - the beginning of March. The resulting seedlings are planted in a permanent place in May. In the northern regions, the dates are at the beginning of June.

Sowing preparation

Growers use two methods to prepare seeds before sowing. Both of them are effective, you can choose any of the options:

1. Soak the planting material before planting. This is done so that the seeds swell. This method allows you to check how good the seeds are. Expired seed material does not swell, remains empty inside. Soak them better on a piece of cloth. Just pour water is not necessary, the seeds may get wet. Soak them for 2-3 days. Care must be taken to ensure that the fabric does not dry out.
2. The second method is to harden the seed material. To do this, moisten a piece of cloth, place seeds on it. Wrap them up and send them inside the refrigerator to the bottom shelf. The temperature must not be too low. Plants hardened in this way will more easily tolerate frost. Keep the seeds in the cold for 2 days.

If desired, you can simply sow strawberries in boxes with earth and water with a spray bottle. For those who do not like to be lazy, we suggest considering the planting method from experienced gardeners.

It is not necessary to prepare seeds, however, these measures will allow you to get 100% germination of healthy seedlings.

How to plant seeds?

Planting is carried out with the preparation of fertile soil. To grow strawberries for seedlings, mixed soil is needed. 2 parts of the earth are taken, part of the sand and peat, where wood ash, biohumus should be added. The soil should be light crumbly. Otherwise, after watering the land will be clogged.

• The prepared soil is poured into boxes. Leveled and compacted.
• With a stick, even shallow grooves are drawn for the length of the box.
• Seeds are placed inside the groove with tweezers. If you don't have tweezers, a toothpick will do.
• Between each seed, so that they are not thickened, leave a distance of 2 cm.
• When planting different varieties, you need to sign each groove.
• After planting, tamp the ground and pour abundantly from a spray bottle.

Until strong shoots appear, it is better to water with a spray bottle, otherwise the water will wash away the seeds.

Seed care before sprouts appear

Seedlings do not require special care, except for watering, until the moment when the seedlings need to dive. It is better to keep a box with seedlings on the window, sunlight will show through the glass. Until shoots appear, the box to retain moisture can be covered with glass or film.

Carry out a pick when 2-3 leaves appear. Carefully remove seedlings and transplant into separate cups. Peat cups are ideal for this purpose. If planted in disposable dishes, a hole must be made at the bottom of the cup.

How to plant berry bushes in open ground?

Self-grown strawberry seedlings with proper care should be green, fresh and healthy looking. Before planting in the ground, you need to water the cups abundantly. The weather should be warm by now. If there are cold nights, it is better to wait a while, use a greenhouse or covering material.

Seedlings are planted on a prepared bed, the soil in it should be loosened and fertilized. Recently, gardeners have been actively planting on elevated beds with covering material. If you grow strawberries in the traditional way, grown stronger bushes need to be mulched.

For mulch, straw, hay or sawdust is suitable. Good owners use cut grass or rotten foliage.

Difficulties in growing berries from seeds at home

Difficulties that beginner gardeners may encounter:

1. Expired seeds will not germinate, in which case they need to be resown.
2. Ensure regular watering, in dry soil, the sprouts may die.
3. If the window is very sunny, it needs to be slightly shaded, otherwise the leaves may turn yellow.
4. In addition to watering, seedlings can be sprayed. If it grows weakly, top dressing with growth stimulants is recommended.
5. If the soil smells moldy, then watering needs to be reduced otherwise the sprouts may rot.

If you follow all the recommendations, monitor the condition of the seedlings and properly care for them. On your site, you can equip a strawberry meadow rich in harvest. Experimenting with different varieties, until late autumn, the harvest will be guaranteed!

The most reliable way to get the strawberry variety you need and avoid many diseases and other troubles is to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds.

What gardener will deny himself the pleasure of growing strawberries on his plot? In fact, its name is large-fruited strawberries, but we are more familiar with the name - strawberries, and we will call it further.

Usually everyone starts it at home in the usual way: they take bushes from a neighbor and plant them, not knowing either the name of the variety or other valuable information about it. Together with the bushes, they receive all his diseases. There is no guarantee against this even when seedlings are bought on the market.

By growing seedlings from seeds on our own, we will avoid this risk.

To begin with, it is important to decide what kind of strawberries you want to have. Remontant varieties give several harvests per season, but their berries are not so tasty. The largest varieties are hybrid, but all hybrids require more fertilizer than regular varieties. There are also many differences in taste. Your choice will depend on the purpose of growing: a more acidic one is suitable for canning, and a sweeter one for fresh food. The choice of grades allows to satisfy any inquiries of gardeners. Here are some of them:

Moscow delicacy F1

This is a remontant hybrid variety, the fruits are large, dense with excellent taste. The variety is early, fruitful (up to one and a half kilograms per bush). It is beautiful, which allows it to be used in hanging and vertical beds.

Sarian F1

A new remontant hybrid suitable for growing in greenhouses and conservatories. Berry picking can begin as early as four to five months after sowing. Large-fruited, resistant to both frost and drought, little susceptible to infection by fungal diseases.

Queen Elizabeth

Also remontant, but not a hybrid, which allows you to collect seeds from it. It bears fruit all summer without pauses. The berries are large, bright crimson in color, fragrant, dense in texture, transportable.

Gigantella

The name speaks of the large size of the berries (up to 120 grams)! Gigantella bears fruit once a season, not a hybrid. Berries are very sweet, dry skin allows them to be stored well.

Geneva

Appeared in our country in the nineties. Productive variety even with a lack of sunny days. Gives a crop twice a season, has a dormant period, large-fruited.

Zephyr

Attracts high productivity and early ripeness. Tolerates shading, not capricious in care. The taste is airy - light, as the very name of the variety indicates. Fruits once a season.

Tristar

Large conical berries. Can produce a second crop in late summer. Sweet dessert variety.

The berries grow on the mustache, so they should not be cut off.

Diamond

Resistant to viruses, early ripening, gives up to 2 kilograms of berries from one bush.

Ducat

Differs in frost resistance.

Other varieties

Sakhalin berry bears fruit all summer and until the end of autumn. It is impossible not to mention such proven frost-resistant varieties as Festivalnaya, Masha, Bogota, Mount Everest, Zarya.

When purchasing seeds, be sure to look at the expiration date, and if it comes to an end, then do not take them, since germination is highly dependent on freshness. By value, choose averages to take less risk.

Remember that you cannot collect seeds from hybrid varieties yourself, you need to buy them.

To collect the seeds yourself, you need to choose the berry you like, it must be overripe. We remove the top layer from the berry, immerse it in water and carefully separate the seed from the pulp, filter. Now it remains only to dry the seeds, and they are ready. You can sow them immediately, but if necessary, they are perfectly preserved for three to four years.

Benefits of growing strawberries from seeds

At first glance, it seems that growing strawberries from seeds is very difficult. Indeed, strawberry seeds are hard to germinate, and sprouts sometimes die. But here the problem is only in the lack of necessary knowledge and experience. If you master this simple technology, you will always use it, because it provides a number of advantages:

1. Unlike seedlings, seeds persist for a long time.
2. It is easier to choose the best variety for you.
3. The cost of seeds is several times less than seedlings.
4. You will definitely know the name of each variety and its features.
5. From one berry you can get many bushes.

Try to get strawberry seeds no later than January, otherwise they may disappear from sale. Until you are completely sure of success, it is better not to buy expensive elite seeds, be sure to check the expiration date when buying.

Seed preparation

First you need disinfection by immersion for 20 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then we take a transparent container with a lid, making holes for ventilation. We cover the bottom with cotton pads or cloth, having previously moistened them, then lay out the seeds.

It is very difficult to lay out such small seeds, a toothpick can help with this. Top with the same moistened material and close the container with a lid. The napkin needs to be moistened every day, but not filled with water (use a spray bottle).

If you decide to sow several different varieties, then use different containers for them, which are worth signing. We keep warm for two days, making sure that the seeds do not dry out, put them in the refrigerator for two weeks and also maintain humidity.

This operation is called stratification. After stratification, the seeds are ready for sowing.

Instead of tap water, use melted water. In winter, there will be no shortage of such water.

Sowing dates

In the middle lane and to the north, it should be sown no earlier than March, and in the south of Russia it can be done as early as February and even in mid-January. Specific dates depend on the variety and climate, so determine the exact date individually. If you are late with sowing, then the strawberries in the ground will not have time to take root.

You can sow seeds at an earlier date if you use a backlight lamp.

Substrate preparation for sowing

Gardeners have seen from their own experience that ready-made soil mixtures do not always meet the required parameters. For strawberries, it is better to prepare the mixture yourself.

Unsuitable predecessors for strawberries are: strawberries, raspberries and nightshade crops. After them, the land should not be taken; it is better to prepare the land in the forest or in the forest belt.

The substrate should be light, crumbly, not fertilized. Here are examples of its composition:

• A mixture of forest land and sand in equal parts;
• Three parts of biohumus, peat and sand;
• Two parts of turf and one - sand with peat.

Buy biohumus in a store, deoxidize peat with lime or dolomite flour before mixing.

You can destroy pests in it by keeping the substrate in an oven with a temperature of 200 degrees for about twenty minutes. Instead of high temperature treatment, on the contrary, it is possible to freeze the soil by placing the container outside at low temperatures. In order to restore healthy microflora after that, after warming up, keep the earth cool for two weeks. During this time, just the seeds will undergo stratification.

It is possible to use ashes and humus as fertilizers, but do not overdo it, excess fertilizer can burn the seeds.

Selecting suitable containers

Capacities can be anything, consider the most common:

1. Finished plastic cassettes. They can be purchased at gardening outlets. Each container of the cassette is designed for planting one seed in it. Drainage holes have already been made, but you need to pick up the pallet yourself.
2. Homemade wooden boxes. They can be used repeatedly, but disinfected with repeated use.
3. Various paper and plastic cups. Of these, seedlings are easy to transplant, but they need containers during transportation.
4. Pots of their peat. Plus, this is that they are planted in the ground along with seedlings, and the disadvantage is that they may turn out to be of poor quality. Buy from trusted stores.
5. Transparent packaging for cakes, cookies and more. Drainage holes are made in them on their own, and the container is ready. The advantage is that they have transparent lids.

You will choose for yourself, based on your conditions, possibilities.

Before filling with earth, the containers should be wiped with a cloth soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate.

Sowing in boxes

The containers are filled with pre-prepared soil mixture (substrate), the surface is slightly compacted and watered. Then you need to make small grooves, spread the seeds in them, but you should not cover them with soil on top, the seeds germinate better in the light.

After planting, sprinkle the ground with water and cover the containers with transparent lids, film or glass. Condensation (drops of water) should appear on the lids. If there is too much of it, it is necessary to ventilate it, and if it is not there, then pour it from the spray bottle. The place where the seedlings will be grown should be warm and well lit, but not in direct sunlight.

With this method, you can apply the stratification of seeds directly in the ground using snow. It is done like this: We fill the box with earth by two-thirds, cover the surface with a thick layer of snow, and trample down. We lay out the soaked seeds on the surface and put the box in the refrigerator for fifteen days. During this time, the seeds will pour melted snow and be drawn into the soil. Then we put the containers in a warm place and take care, as described above.

Sowing in separate containers

If you have prepared cups for sowing, then everything is done in the same way, only one seed is laid out in each cup.

Since strawberry seeds are difficult to germinate, plant only germinated seeds in separate containers so that they do not subsequently turn out to be empty.

Now on sale there are peat tablets. This product is specially designed for sowing seeds of various crops. They have holes with a depth of about 8 millimeters. Before sowing, the tablets must be soaked until swollen, then remove excess water.

The hatched seeds are placed in the holes, and all this is covered with a film, which should be removed with the emergence of seedlings. You also need to maintain optimal humidity, if necessary, water. The advantage of this method is that the seedlings do not need to dive.

Rules for caring for young seedlings

Since the plants are very small and delicate, care for them requires some attention.

1. Proper watering is the main condition for success. Watering will have to be done with great care. In order not to wash off with water and lay tender sprouts on the ground, water under the root using a medical syringe, pipette or teaspoon. Water must be settled or purified.
2. Top dressing. Complexes containing potassium, magnesium, phosphorus should be added
3. Prevention. To protect against fungal diseases, water fungicide (Trichodermin, Planriz) once every three weeks.

If you notice that the sprout lay down, lift it up and sprinkle it around with earth.

In a sealed container with high humidity, ideal conditions are created for the development of mold, which produces harmful toxins. You can get rid of this misfortune if:

• Carefully collect the mold along with the top layer of soil, without damaging the roots of the seedlings.
• Lightly loosen the soil with a toothpick.
• Treat with the following preparations: phytosporin, vermiculite, a solution of one tablet of nystatin in a glass of water, a one percent solution of potassium permanganate.
• Dry the ground a little by removing the lid or glass for a while.

During subsequent picking, try to carefully shake off the ground in which the mold was from the roots of the plant. If mold has formed on peat tablets, they must also be thrown away, and the plants should be treated with an antifungal drug.

Do not rush to open the seedlings when they grow up. They need to be accustomed to external conditions gradually. Transparent covers should first be moved a little, or opened for a short time, until the seedlings get used to room temperature and humidity.

Picking strawberry seedlings

If the strawberries are not sown in separate containers, then after the appearance of three leaves, it needs to be picked. We place the prepared soil in cups with drainage holes made in them, compact and water. You can easily make cups yourself from thick paper or other similar materials.

We also water the soil in containers with seedlings. Carefully transplant strawberry sprouts along with a clod of earth. If the roots of the seedlings are intertwined, you will have to separate them in water so as not to damage them. It is recommended to pinch the longest roots when diving. Of course, after transplantation, careful watering under the root is needed.

Necessary conditions for growing seedlings

The optimum temperature for growing is 20-22 degrees. Illumination at least 12 hours, but not direct sunlight. Plantings should be shaded from such rays, and if there is a lack of light, artificial lighting should be used. In this case, it is advisable to use automation for independent switching on with the appearance of darkness.

Monitor the level of humidity in the room. If it is increased, seedlings can be damaged by diseases and pests.

Due to excessive watering, strawberries may develop such an ailment as a black leg. If it is found, it is urgent to transplant the seedlings into another soil, and add a fungicide when watering.

Preparing seedlings for planting in the ground

In order for the plants not to experience stress from transplantation, some agricultural practices should be applied, namely:

1. hardening. Two to three weeks before planting seedlings in a permanent place, hardening is necessary. To do this, during the day they take the seedlings out to the balcony or porch into the fresh air, and in the evening they bring them into the room. This is done so that the plants get used to sunlight and temperature changes.
2. Solution processing. In the event of the appearance of a white coating on the leaves (powdery mildew), it should be sprayed with a solution of biofungicidal preparations. If a spider mite is wound up, treat with an acaricide solution.

If you carefully follow the advice, then growing strawberries from seeds at home is not as difficult as it might seem at first. For care and efforts, she will surely thank you with a rich harvest.

Fragrant strawberries with delicious fruits are especially loved by gardeners. A huge number of varieties grown in garden plots please with a harvest from early summer to cold weather. It is not always possible to buy the right seedlings, and it is not cheap. However, you can successfully grow seedlings from seeds at home.

Features of growing strawberries of different varieties

Among the variety of varieties of these berries, remontant ones are distinguished, which make it possible to obtain a good harvest for a long time. They do not have a mustache, so gardeners use the cultivation of strawberries from seeds at home. Non-remontant species propagate using seedlings. They are obtained from the mustache - it is more convenient, but as a result, strong, healthy seedlings come out. When planting such strawberries with seeds, the characteristics of the variety are not always preserved.

Remontant strawberry

This type of garden berry is distinguished by the fact that it bears fruit from June until frost. Delicious fruits with the aroma of wild strawberries can be small and large - they are also called strawberries. Very beautiful - white, yellow, red - they decorate the garden plot, serve as decor for flower beds. Repair varieties differ:

• resistance to low temperatures;
• the absence of a mustache;
• immunity to insects;
• harvesting before cold weather;
• disease resistance.

Growing strawberries from seeds at home helps the gardener to have plants that are not always available from seedlings. Good reviews have varieties:

• Baron Solemacher. Grown in pots on the balcony, in open, closed ground.
• Ali Baba. High-yielding, with increased resistance to diseases.
• Queen Elizabeth has fragrant, large fruits.
• Alexandria. Hardy, productive variety.
• Merlan. Such strawberries on the balcony will delight with bright flowers and berries.

An interesting variety is Frigo, which does not winter in the beds. The plant is dug up when the season ends, stored in refrigerators at a low temperature, hermetically packed. The variety is used in the cultivation of strawberries on an industrial scale. It differs in that you can plan the date of harvest. At home, varieties are grown from seeds:

• Ruyana. Differs in early term of maturing.
• Alexandrina. Small-fruited, very decorative.
• Tarpan. With large berries, bright pink flowers.
• Elan. For vertical cultivation on a balcony.

Non-repair varieties

Reproduction of seedlings of non-remontant varieties is carried out from the mustache of the plant. This process is less complicated and more efficient - seedlings take root quickly and produce a crop, but in the second year. It does not make sense to grow strawberries from seeds at home. Popular varieties are:

• "Lord";
• "Gigantella";
• "Mashenka";
• "Muscat";
• "Milan".

How to grow strawberries from seeds on a windowsill

A very exciting, albeit troublesome, task is growing seedlings from seeds at home. The main thing is to want, and everything will work out. You will be rewarded with a bountiful harvest - strawberries from seeds will delight you with fruits from the first year of planting. Pick a variety in advance, purchase seeds. Even in winter, buy containers and earth, worry about lamps to lengthen daylight hours.

Growing seedlings of strawberries from seeds

Obtaining strawberry seedlings at home begins with the preparation of soil and containers. Choose a place where the seeds will germinate. The main stages of growing seedlings:

• seed preparation - soaking, stratification;
• sowing in a container with soil;
• ventilation of seedlings;
• watering;
• picking in pots;
• top dressing;
• hardening;
• transfer to site.

Soil preparation and seedling containers

When preparing the land for seedlings, it is necessary to mix equal parts of biohumus and sand, add 3 times more peat. To get rid of pests, it is recommended to ignite the soil for 20 minutes using an oven. Do this three weeks before planting so that the earth recovers. For growing seedlings from seeds, disposable food containers with a lid are used. Plants dive into pots, peat tablets, forms with cells 5x5 cm in size.

Seed preparation

In order for the seeds to sprout together and give strong shoots when growing seedlings, they need to be prepared for planting at home. At this point, 2 operations are performed - soaking and stratification. Seeds are placed on a cotton pad placed in a disposable food container. Abundantly moisten with snow water, leave for two days. Then the container is kept for 2 weeks on the shelf of the refrigerator - this is the stratification that improves germination.

Prepared seeds are placed on moistened soil in 2 cm increments, covered with a film, then put the container where it is warm. Important - you can not sprinkle on top of the earth. There is another way to sow a crop at home, which does not require additional preparation. When germinating seeds with this option, you need:

• prepare a small container with earth;
• spill the soil with water;
• pour snow on top;
• lightly tamp it down;
• sow seeds on top;
• close with a film;
• put in the refrigerator for a day;
• then the strawberries will be on the windowsill until germination, and it needs watering and airing.

Seedling care

After the appearance of sprouts, the plants are carefully transplanted into a container, where they will be until planting on the site. At this stage, good lighting and watering are important. In spring, daylight is still short, so you need to lengthen it artificially using lamps. With the advent of the third leaf, the plant is fed. For this, fertilizers are used:

• "Aquarin";
• "Kemira-Lux";
• "Solution".

Picking and planting seedlings in a permanent place

Approximately 7 weeks after planting, the plant can be planted in the ground. Before that, at home, strawberries are taken out to the balcony for hardening at a temperature of 15 degrees. Start with two hours, then gradually increase the time. It is advisable to shade the plants so as not to burn them with the sun. If you plant strawberries by mid-May, you will get a harvest by the end of summer.

Planting is done in cloudy weather, the first days the strawberries are covered from the sun. The site for seedlings is leveled, compost and potash fertilizers are added to the soil. The earth should be loose, light. It is not advisable to carry out a pick so as not to spoil the roots. The plant is carefully transferred from the pot to the hole. When using peat tablets for seedlings, it should be planted immediately in the ground. The distance between the holes is 40 cm. To facilitate care, the ground between the bushes is mulched.

Rules for the care of strawberries after planting in the ground

In order for the berries to please you with a harvest, you should follow certain rules:

• Water regularly.
• Carry out loosening between the bushes to improve the access of oxygen to the roots, to retain moisture. Before the appearance of berries, this is done three times.
• Weed out the weeds.
• Remove old leaves.
• In preparation for winter, reduce watering.
• Carry out mulching - covering the soil under the bushes with straw, sawdust, grass. This retains moisture and prevents weeds from growing.

The famous gardener Oktyabrina Ganichkina, talking about growing strawberries, gives the following advice:

• If your site grows strawberries of good varieties, giving an excellent harvest, cut off the first flowers from remontant strawberries. After the end of the strawberry harvest, it will please with abundant fruiting.
• Fertilizers for strawberries are put into the ground just before planting. For top dressing during the growth period, the leaves are sprinkled with ash.

Strawberries are a favorite berry of many. How to grow seedlings of strawberries so that at the beginning of summer they can enjoy tasty and fragrant berries? You can grow it with seeds. This method and method is now very popular among gardeners. Having sown the seed in winter at home, then at the beginning of summer the first berries already appear, which do not disappear from the bushes until the very cold weather.

Strawberries are a berry that fascinates with its taste and unusual aroma, even strawberry leaves have a healing effect. All over the world, this berry is gaining popularity. Breeders in many countries have bred different varieties of strawberries, so strawberries are becoming popular among gardeners. You can grow your favorite plant with the help of seeds. After all, not always purchased seedlings of garden strawberries can give the desired result. Therefore, we will grow strawberry seedlings from seeds in order to get a healthy plant and a good harvest.

Growing seedlings of strawberries from seeds is very easy and interesting. So let's figure out what can be sown?

• Remontant strawberries are very popular. Seeds are affordable. It differs from ordinary and garden strawberries in that this species blooms and bears fruit continuously. On a small bush of a plant, flowers, green berries and red fruits can be observed. Remontant strawberries are used in flower beds, and just as a home balcony plant. Also now there is a very large selection of varieties that bear fruit until late autumn.
• Garden or pineapple strawberries are also popular, but quite expensive.
• And of course, you can use your own seeds, which are collected from the best varieties of strawberries, but be careful, you do not need to collect from hybrids.

Growing seedlings of strawberries can be divided into three stages:

1. Sowing seeds.
2. Timely and proper care of seedlings.
3. Planting seedlings in the ground.

When and how should strawberries be sown for seedlings?

From the beginning, select the seeds from which you want to get seedlings. It is better, of course, to sow strawberries for seedlings of different varieties. Seedlings of remontant strawberries and seedlings of garden strawberries do not differ in sowing and care. Therefore, let's start with the first stage of growing strawberry seedlings.

You can start sowing as early as the beginning of February or March, in order to get the fruits as early as possible. Of course, you can sow in May, June, only you need to be more careful and pay more attention to seedlings. You will not have time to plant late seedlings in the ground, that is, in a permanent place, so she will have to spend the winter in boxes on the windowsill.

Therefore, we will start growing seedlings as early as possible. The seeds of garden and remontant strawberries are small, so you need light and loose soil, which should contain sand, humus,. You can prepare the mixture yourself or purchase ready-made soil mixtures. A mixture such as for "Begonia", "For violets", as well as an all-purpose mixture will do. Before planting a seed or treat with a solution of potassium permanganate.

You will also need a shallow container (about 5 centimeters) with drainage holes. You can use both individual pots and large boxes. If planted in separate pots, then in the future you free yourself from diving, because the seedlings are very delicate and fragile.

Planting strawberry seeds for seedlings is a very sensitive process. Prepare the soil a few days before sowing, it should be moist and at room temperature. If you will sow different varieties of strawberries, be sure to sign or leave a recognition flag with the inscription of the variety.

Plant one seed at a time at a distance of about a couple of centimeters from each other. From above, it is not necessary to cover the seeds with earth, it will be enough to sprinkle the earth with water from a spray bottle so that the seeds sink tightly into the ground. Be sure to close the seedlings with foil and put in a warm place, but not near the battery. Overheat the soil, and nothing will work.
It is necessary to open the film every day in order to ventilate or moisten the soil. The first shoots will appear in about a few weeks.

Second phase. Shoots will appear small, fragile, will grow quite slowly. Therefore, you need to monitor watering. It is impossible to overmoisten the soil, as a disease such as "black leg" may appear. Move the seedlings to a bright, warm place, you do not need to remove the film. Ventilate the ground twice a day. As soon as the first leaves appeared on the sprouts, increase the number of airings, thereby accustom the young sprouts to room conditions.

It is impossible to remove the film sharply, as the plant may die from temperature and humidity changes. If the plant is a little stronger, it's time to start picking, this applies to the seedlings that were sown in a common box.

Watering should be moderate. In separate small pots, strawberry seedlings are kept until a rosette of leaves up to 7 cm in diameter is formed. If the size is larger, then it is worth transplanting the seedlings into a pot of a larger diameter.

Feeding young and only sprouted seedlings is not worth it, since the plant takes all the nutrients from the soil. That's when the real five leaves appear, you can gradually accustom the plant to daily watering with fertilizers.

Third stage- preparation and planting of strawberry seedlings in open ground. This stage is quite important, since it is necessary to prepare the seedlings, that is, to harden the young plant. Start accustoming the plant to sunlight, wind, rain, take the seedlings to the balcony, veranda. Such hardening must be done gradually and carefully so as not to ruin the work that has been done. Each time increase the time spent in the fresh air and by the end of May, you can leave small strawberry bushes on the street all night. You can plant bushes in the ground only after they get stronger. Choose a sunny, fertile place in your summer cottage and you can plant it.

The distance between the bushes should be about 30 centimeters, between the rows about 50 centimeters. Proper care and watering will bear the first fruits by mid-July.

Freego technology

This is a new technology that is not cheap. The essence of the method is as follows.

A bush of strawberries (strawberries) is dug up in the fall, before the first frosts come. It is during this period that the plant is at rest. The leaves are cut so that about 3 centimeters of the stem remain. Of course, such seedlings look a little strange, but the most important thing here is the root system. Seedlings must be processed with special solutions, thereby preparing them for hermetic storage in a refrigerator. A certain temperature is constantly maintained there, which allows you to store seedlings for a long time before selling or planting.

Advantages of freego technology:

• This type of strawberry should not overwinter in the beds, thereby eliminating the influence of adverse factors.
• It turns out a good harvest.
• Frigo seedlings can be planted at different times in order to create a constant fruiting cycle.
• Seedlings can be transported over long distances due to the fact that they are compact.
• Fast survival due to good root system.
• After rooting, frigo seedlings are not affected by dry and hot weather, thanks to a good root system.

There are, of course, drawbacks to such seedlings. These include:

• The difficulty of preserving at home, since seedlings need a temperature from 0 to + 1C with an air humidity of at least 90%. If the temperature is at least half a degree higher, then the growth process will start.
• Also, the difficulty lies in the exact determination of the timing of digging the plant.

But if you are a real gardener, then you don’t care about any difficulties.

Video: growing strawberries from seeds