Re-glue the wallpaper yourself. How to glue wallpaper with your own hands: practical advice from professionals. Wall surface preparation

Pasting the walls with wallpaper during the repair process is the most popular type of decoration. This is facilitated by the availability of materials and not too complicated technology. In order for the work done to really please the eye, preliminary preparation of the walls for wallpaper is necessary. This is the most difficult and time-consuming stage in the process of changing the interior of the premises of the apartment, whether it be a hall, a corridor, a toilet, etc.

The preparation of walls in a new building and a residential apartment is somewhat different from each other. In a residential apartment, work begins with the dismantling of the old type of finish: paint, whitewash, old wallpaper. After that, the walls are inspected. If necessary, the old plaster is removed and the walls are repaired.

In the new building, installation work is being completed on the installation of door and window blocks, electrical wiring, pouring floor screed, whitewashing the ceiling. After this work, both in the new apartment and in the old one, they coincide:

  • the surface of the walls is being prepared for plastering: notches are stuffed, primed, beacons are mounted;
  • walls are plastered with gypsum (cement-sand) mortar or dry plaster (OSB board, drywall, plywood);

Attention: rooms with high humidity - bathroom, kitchen and bathroom - must not be plastered with a solution containing gypsum.

  • the plaster layer is puttied (if the finishing grout is made at a high level, and the wallpaper is planned with a relief pattern, the operation can be skipped);

Important: a thin layer of putty is necessarily applied to the gypsum plasterboard, which will subsequently allow you to remove the pasted wallpaper without destroying the drywall sheet.

  • a primer is applied to ensure adhesion of the wallpaper adhesive to the wall.

Step by step, the entire process of preparing walls for wallpaper is discussed in the articles “How to prepare walls for wallpapering” and “”.

Selection and preparation of glue

The quality of wall decoration with tapestries is primarily affected by the type of wallpaper glue. The correct choice of the composition allows you to glue the walls without bubbles and air pockets, with invisible joints, uncontaminated canvases.

When choosing an adhesive composition, it is necessary to take into account the type of wallpaper base. Yes, for paper wallpaper suitable CMC glue firms "Metilan", "Moment", etc. For vinyl wallpaper produced special types of glue, as indicated on the packaging. non-woven can be glued with a special adhesive mass for interlining.

You can read about the types of glue, the methods of their preparation and application, as well as the correspondence to various types of wallpaper in the material "".

The choice of wallpaper depending on the room

A huge range of wallpapers allows you to choose them for the type of wall, and for a specific room in the apartment. For example, for a concrete base of walls, smooth and without flaws, smooth wallpapers are suitable. Volumetric (embossed) are suitable for all types of wall material. They mask small bulges and depressions well, hide slightly parted seams.

In the rooms south side buildings it is best to use cool colors: gray, blue or green. By the way, they visually increase the rooms in Khrushchev, with their small dimensions - area and ceiling height.

From the north side it is necessary to choose tapestries of warm colors (beige color with variations) or golden color. In the hallway and corridor dark washable wallpapers in rich shades are suitable. Living room looks great in both light and dark colors. Here, the main idea in choosing trellises is to maintain the overall style of the interior.

In the bedroom should be calm semitones. The harsh color is annoying and keeps you awake. Photo wallpapers with views of nature look good here and functionally fulfill their role.

Wallpapering technology

Many apartment owners, when replacing tapestries on their own, believe that they know how to glue wallpaper correctly. Indeed, they can stick simple single-layer paper wallpapers on the wall without any problems. However, when working with other types and types of wallpaper, questions begin to arise. So how to glue the wallpaper yourself?

The technology of pasting walls with modern wallpaper is not complicated and consists of several interrelated stages. It can be presented step by step as follows:

  1. the required number of wallpapers is calculated;
  2. buy wallpaper and glue;
  3. prepare the necessary tools and fixtures;
  4. the place for gluing the first sheet of tapestries is selected;
  5. the scheme is determined according to which the wallpaper should be glued;
  6. cutting sheets of wallpaper;
  7. adhesive mass is being prepared;
  8. tapestries are glued to the wall.

Materials and tools

For continuous and high-quality work, you will need materials and a set of tools with fixtures.

Materials. For pasting the walls you need to buy:

  • wallpaper (non-woven, photo and glass, paper, vinyl, etc.);
  • wallpaper glue (preferably specialized).

Tools and fixtures. You can stick wallpaper with a minimum set of tools. But in order for the work to be done quickly and beautifully, you must have at hand:

  • ladder;
  • plastic bucket - 2 pcs. (for glue and clean water);
  • cuvette (bath) for glue;
  • roller 250 mm wide and paint brush (brush for wallpaper edges and corners) for applying the adhesive mass;
  • metal spatula for cutting wallpaper on the wall;
  • plastic wallpaper spatula (wallpaper brush) for leveling thin wallpaper or tapestries with a three-dimensional (embossed) pattern;
  • plumb or laser level to find the vertical;
  • ruler with a pencil for drawing a vertical starting line;
  • construction knife (scissors) with replaceable blades for cutting wallpaper to length;
  • roulette;
  • rubber roller for pressing the wallpaper to the wall;
  • rubber roller, narrow, cone-shaped, for smoothing seams (joints);
  • foam rubber sponge for removing glue from the front side of the wallpaper;
  • napkin (towel) for hands;
  • screwdriver for removing sockets and switches;
  • insulating tape for working with electrical wires.

Buying wallpaper

Going to the store for wallpaper, you must strictly observe two conditions:

  • buy the required number of tubes;
  • buy tubes of the same shade.

Material Quantity Calculation

1. The height of the wall surface to be glued is measured (it may not coincide with the height of the ceiling due to the non-removable plinth and baguette). Then the length of the roll (10 m) is divided by the result of the measurement, resulting in the number of full trellis panels in one roll.

After that, the length of all walls is measured, the results of the measurements are added up - the value of the perimeter in meters is obtained. The resulting number is divided by the width of the wallpaper tube (0.53 m, 1.06 m) and the number of sheets in it. The measurements taken can be written by the formula:

T = P/L x H/K, where

  • T is the number of wallpaper tubes, in pcs.
  • P is the length of the perimeter of the walls, in m.
  • L is the width of the wallpaper tube (0.53 m or 1.06 m).
  • H is the height of the pasted wall surface (the length of the pasted wallpaper sheet).
  • K - the length of the wallpaper roll (10 m, 15 m and 25 m).

Attention: professional finishers advise not to take into account windows and doors when calculating the amount of wallpaper purchased.

The result obtained must be rounded up and add 1-2 tubes of wallpaper to match the color, for an unforeseen marriage and a reserve (repair of trellis sheets damaged on the wall).

2. The length of the perimeter of the walls is measured, after which the required number of wallpapers is taken from the finished table below.

Attention! If the height of the pattern (rapport) is more than 0.6 cm, it is necessary to add 1 more roll of wallpaper for every 6 tubes to all calculations.

It already takes into account all the nuances of calculating the required number of wallpapers, but without taking into account the fit of the picture.

wallpaper requirements

In the production of wallpaper, machines are filled with paint for a certain batch. When refilling, the tone may be disturbed. At the same time, at the point of sale, the difference in shade may not be seen, but on the wall it will be clearly visible.

Therefore, you need to buy tapestries of the same production batch, one production date and one article number. You can see this data on the insert (label) that wraps each tube of wallpaper, which is clearly visible in the photo. Practice shows that not everyone knows this, and many ignore it. The result is clearly visible on the walls - the different tonality of the tapestries is conspicuous.

Buying glue

The adhesive mass is bought according to the type of wallpaper purchased. The number of packs (tanks) of wallpaper adhesive is easy to determine - the packaging indicates the consumption in rolls with a length of 10 m and a width of 0.53 m.

If the wallpaper has a different size, the flow rate is adjusted. The number of packages is the result of dividing the total number of trellises purchased by the amount of consumption (in rolls).

Where to start gluing

All the recommendations for choosing a place to start decorating walls with trellises state that it doesn’t matter where to start gluing wallpaper in a room - you can start from any place you like: a door, a window, a corner, or even from the middle of the wall (the main thing here is that the first canvas should be glued strictly vertically). However, this advice is not entirely correct. Paper wallpapers, especially single-layer (simplex), should be glued from the window, while in different directions - so the seams are not visible.

Determination of the pasting scheme

Depending on the type of wallpaper, experts offer two pasting schemes. How to glue paper wallpaper is shown in the diagram. Here, work starts from the window and is carried out in different directions.

For other types of tapestries, both the option shown in the diagram and work in a circle are applicable when the beginning and end meet. In this case, work can start from:

  • windows (following many years of tradition);
  • doors - the box serves as a guide (replaces the vertical line);
  • angle - in this case, with the help of a plumb line, a vertical is drawn from which work will be carried out;
  • a vertical line drawn on the wall in any arbitrarily chosen place.

Step-by-step instruction

You can wallpaper the walls yourself, without involving professionals. To do this, you must act strictly in accordance with the instructions.

  • Using a plumb line, a vertical line is drawn on the wall with a pencil, from which work will begin.
  • The height of the wall to be glued is measured and the first sheet of wallpaper is cut to size. Experts advise for non-professionals to make an allowance of 10 cm, although those who have even minimal experience with trellises cut them immediately to size.
  • The remaining panels are cut, combining the pattern on the floor, and not on the wall, as some authors of works on this topic recommend. Tapestries without a pattern are simply cut to size.
  • Diluted glue according to the instructions printed on the package.
  • The adhesive mass is applied to the wallpaper canvas (on the wall in the case of non-woven wallpaper) with a roller or a special brush. The edges are smeared with a brush. First, the first (any) half (slightly more than half) is smeared and folded in half. The fold should not be fixed. Then the second half is spread and also folded in half (the correct fold method is shown in the figure below).

Folded wallpaper is kept in this state until the end of the impregnation process - the approximate time is given in the table below.

  • The upper half of the sheet of wallpaper is opened and glued to the wall (the lower part remains folded all this time). It is necessary to navigate not along the ceiling, but along the drawn vertical (if the upper half is glued correctly, then the second one will easily follow the drawn line).

Attention: if the wallpaper was cut with an overlap, a margin of 4-6 cm is left at the top of the wall.

The wallpaper is smoothed with a wallpaper roller (plastic spatula) from top to bottom, from the center to the edges (see photo).

  • The second half of the panel is opened and also glued to the wall.
  • The overlaps from above and below are cut with a knife using a metal spatula.
  • The second and subsequent sheets are glued in the same way, according to the accepted scheme.

How to make seams invisible

In the process of work, it is important to ensure that the joint remains invisible. Errors occur for 3 reasons:

  • the consistency of the glue is incorrectly selected (more liquid than required), as a result of which the edge of the wallpaper bubbles (lags behind) in some places;
  • wallpapers by their nature, under the influence of moisture of the adhesive mass, stretch, and when dried, they shrink, forming a visible butt seam;
  • a mistake was made when aligning the wallpaper - the sheets were overlapped.

The problem is solved by rolling the joint with a special narrow wallpaper roller. If an error is detected after the trellises have dried, the visible seam is painted over with a special corrective paint.

Places where pasting is overlapped with a metal ruler and a construction knife are cut in the middle 10 hours after the end of work (the wallpaper has shrunk, and the glue has not dried completely and allows you to remove both the lower and upper pieces of the cut trellises).

How to glue wallpaper in the corners

Here are some secrets that allow you to complete the work quickly and efficiently.

  • It is impossible to glue a whole sheet at the corner due to a possible violation of its geometry, as a result of which the vertical line disappears at the second part of the wallpaper.
  • Wallpaper in the corners is always cut off. On the second wall, it is necessary to leave 2-3 cm. The next canvas is overlapped on the left strip. Then, with a knife with removable blades, using a metal ruler, a continuous cut is made in the middle of the seam. Strips of wallpaper from the bottom and top are removed, and the seam is rolled with a narrow roller. If desired, you can even choose a picture.
  • External corners are glued using a similar technology.

How to glue at windows and doors

The greatest inconvenience when pasting walls with wallpaper occurs when meeting with obstacles. You can avoid trouble if you follow the technology of gluing tapestries near doors and windows. You can glue the tapestries near the doorway according to the following algorithm:

  1. wallpaper is glued to the wall over the doorway;
  2. the pasted sheet is docked with the previous one;
  3. wallpaper is tightly pressed against the wall with a roller;
  4. scissors make a diagonal cut of the wallpaper to the upper corner of the door trim;
  5. wallpaper is tightly rolled to the side and top trim;
  6. a strongly protruding part of the wallpaper is cut with scissors;
  7. with a metal spatula, the left strip of wallpaper is wound under the casing.

Attention: if the platbands sit tightly on the wall and it is impossible to get wallpaper under them, trimming is done with a knife using a metal spatula.

Gluing near the window is much easier - the wallpaper is glued to the wall using conventional technology. After they are completely dry, the unnecessary part of the tapestries is cut off along the edge of the window with a knife.

Frequently asked Questions

At what temperature to glue the wallpaper

Many recommendations indicate that it is necessary to glue the wallpaper at a temperature of 23-25 ​​° C. However, this temperature regime can only be reached in summer. Winter, when you need to heat up, does not allow you to work in such conditions (in most Russian cities in winter, the temperature in the apartment is 18-20 ° C).

So at what temperature can wallpaper be pasted over walls? Manufacturers of tapestries and glue have taken this into account and recommend finishing work at a temperature of 10-25 ° C. Therefore, in unheated rooms (cottage, veranda) it is not recommended to glue wallpaper in winter.

When can I open windows after pasting

Impatient apartment owners try to quickly get rid of the smell of glue and wallpaper. But open windows are drafts. And in drafts, the glue dries quickly and unevenly, as a result of which the adhesive mass does not have time to create the necessary adhesion to the wall. The result is that the seams diverge or the wallpaper sheets peel off.

When can windows be opened? You can open the windows after the glued wallpaper has completely dried - after 1-3 days(the time for complete drying is indicated, as a rule, in the instructions printed on the package with glue). For insurance, it is better to add one day to the specified time.

What to do if the wallpaper bubbles

In practice, there is often a situation, even among professional finishers, when minor violations of technology lead to the appearance of bubbles and air cavities on the surface of glued walls. This is not aesthetically pleasing, and a potential place for the appearance of mold and fungus. How to get rid of bubbles on wallpaper?

Depending on the size of the lagging area, you can advise:

First, re-glue the canvas with very large air cavities. All attempts to fix the problem without tearing the wallpaper off the wall will be noticeable.

Secondly, with medium pockets, it is also better to re-glue plain tapestries (the trace of the cut will be very clearly visible). Wallpaper with a pattern is cut with a construction knife in the middle of the resulting cavity. The edges are carefully, with the help of a spatula, pulled away from the wall and an adhesive mass is delivered to the resulting space with a brush. In this case, it is not necessary to coat the entire dry surface.

You can disperse the glue with a dry cloth with a tightly compressed cut seam. Allow 5-10 minutes to soak the base of the trellis with glue, and then roll the lagging place with a wallpaper roller to remove excess mass and air mites. In this case, it should be remembered that the paper wallpaper from the glue is stretched, and after drying, it decreases in size. Therefore, the edges of the cut must be overlapped. For vinyl and non-woven wallpaper - end-to-end.

Thirdly, small bubbles are eliminated with a syringe. The needle must be taken under the density of the glue - the thicker it is, the thicker the needle. The bubble is pierced in a circle, from the edges to the center, at an angle of about 30 degrees with respect to the wall.

Such a scheme of punctures allows you to cover the entire lagging surface of the wallpaper, as well as release excess adhesive mass through the punctures when smoothing the problem area. If large folds form, they must be smoothed out. Small wrinkles after the glue dries will disappear by themselves.

What to do if the wallpaper is translucent

The problem of translucent wallpapers after they have completely dried is solved in the only way - by reworking the work done. Therefore, at the preparatory stage, you should try to avoid this headache:

  • prime the walls with a special primer (in extreme cases, whitewash with water-based paint);
  • buy thick trellises;
  • check medium and thin wallpaper for translucence - attach a piece of sheet to a bright spot and evaluate the degree of density.

How long does wallpaper dry

No one will give a definite answer to this question. There are a lot of factors here. And the type of wallpaper, and the adhesive mass used, and the temperature regime of the room, and air humidity, etc. The maximum run-up is from 12 to 72 hours.

Duplex and non-woven paper wallpapers dry the longest - up to 3 days. Non-woven wallpaper on a different basis (not paper) needs about a day to dry completely, vinyl - about 48 hours.

You can determine the degree of drying of the pasted wall with the palm of your hand - pressing it against the wallpaper. If you feel warm - the wall is completely dry, there is a chill - you still have to wait. In passing, we note that it is strictly forbidden to accelerate the drying process with heating devices.

How to glue meter wallpaper alone

The technique of sticking meter-long wallpaper alone does not have any special techniques that differ from the above instructions for pasting wallpaper.

Good quality work can be achieved if you use the advice of specialists with extensive experience.

  1. Before starting work, the room where the work is planned is ventilated, and then tightly closed for a day.
  2. It is better to dismantle the plinth - it can be easily removed (gluing the trellises will become faster and easier). In order not to look for dowel holes under the wallpaper later, self-tapping screws are screwed back into them.
  3. It is better to cover the floor with cardboard or newsprint, but not with plastic wrap (on the film, glue easily gets under the wallpaper when smearing the edges of the sheet, as a result of which it stains them).
  4. Use a ladder. The table and the goats often leave marks on the pasted-over walls while moving to another place. In addition, it is more difficult for them to start the bottom of the wallpaper.
  5. Use specialized wallpaper glue - the universal adhesive mass holds tapestries worse on the wall.
  6. Do not join the tapestries in the corners - glue with an overlap (1-2 cm), and then cut with a knife, forming a seam.
  7. Wipe (wash) your hands regularly.
  8. Do not correct the uneven cut of the wallpaper on the top and bottom of the walls. At the bottom, errors can be hidden with a plinth, at the top with a frieze or baguette.

Related videos



In life, everyone had to deal with wallpapering. And at first glance, a rather simple procedure has its own nuances, which we will discuss in this article. Learn how to glue wallpaper correctly if you are facing this for the first time.

The modern wallpaper market is developing by leaps and bounds. Literally every day there is something new. But, despite this, the wallpaper continues to fulfill its main function - decorative. The methods of their gluing remain unchanged.

Currently, there are three main types of wallpaper:

  • paper-based;
  • vinyl;
  • non-woven wallpaper.

Depending on the type, the methods of pasting them will also differ.

But first we prepare the glued surface. To do this, remove the old wallpaper. To make it easier, wet them with water, let them soak, and then remove them with a metal spatula.

The next stage is the priming of the walls; necessary so that the glue from the wallpaper is not absorbed into the wall. For these purposes, both special primers and ordinary wallpaper glue of a lower concentration can be used. Just coat the walls with the mortar used and let them dry.

It should also be noted that walls coated with oil paint or enamel should be treated with coarse sandpaper, removing all exfoliated areas. This will increase the adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall. Primer in this case is not needed. whitewashed walls are washed with water or the whitewash is completely scraped off with a spatula. To facilitate the procedure, whitewashing should first be wetted. In this case, the primer of the walls is necessary. For thin paper wallpapers, the walls can first be pasted over with newspapers. Now let's move on to gluing.

The tool we need.

Depending on the type of wallpaper, we will apply the adhesive directly to the wall or to the canvas. Glue is applied to the wall for non-woven wallpaper; on the canvas - for paper and vinyl. After applying glue to paper or vinyl wallpapers, they must be allowed to soak by folding the canvas in half with glue inward for 5-7 minutes. We apply glue with a roller or a large brush. It should also be remembered that the appropriate type of glue is used for each type of wallpaper. The process of gluing wallpaper on the ceiling is significantly different in a number of nuances, so read here and avoid mistakes.

Start gluing the wallpaper from the corner closest to the window, after marking the vertical on the wall with a plumb line. Non-woven wallpaper is glued from a roll; the required length is cut along the plinth.

Vinyl and paper wallpapers are cut into strips depending on the height of the wall plus ten centimeters. After gluing, the excess is cut off. Gluing the entire width of the canvas into a corner is not worth it, since it will most likely not be even, and the wallpaper may fold, or the vertical will be broken.

It is necessary to glue the wallpaper to the corner of the desired width plus two centimeters.

The next strip is overlapped from the corner, then cut off the excess with a sharp clerical knife. Smooth the canvas with a dry, clean cloth in movements from the center to the edge on both sides. We roll the edges of the canvas for better gluing with a rubber roller. Residues of glue along the edges must be removed with a sponge. When gluing the strip from the canvas to the door, measure the distance to glue the canvas parallel to the doorway.

And remember that the newly pasted wallpaper should not be subjected to accelerated drying, that is, do not allow drafts, direct sunlight, otherwise the wallpaper may peel off the walls.

Video: glue wallpaper yourself

If you do it right, the wallpaper will last a long time, otherwise you will run into problems such as skew, pattern mismatch, bulge, peeling, tears in the corners and noticeable seams. Familiarize yourself with possible errors to avoid further trouble.

Common mistakes with improper wallpapering

Wallpaper gluing is one of the simplest types of repair and finishing work, which does not require any special education or exceptional skill. Nevertheless, people who undertake to glue wallpaper on their own often make mistakes that lead to very depressing results. Glued wallpaper peels off, swelling, greasy spots, distortions, and sometimes breaks appear on them. And all this can be avoided if you follow simple, but very important rules.

Final pattern mismatch

Perhaps the most common mistake when self-gluing wallpaper. It is very easy to avoid it, you just need to correctly match the pattern immediately before cutting. Naturally, you should not cut the entire roll ahead of time. Maximum two or three lanes.

Misalignment leading to misalignment of the seams of the cut strips

The second most common mistake is skew. When the strip is already pasted on the wall, it is not a good idea to correct this error by pulling it up, as this can cause the material to break. In such cases, it is better to remove the wallpaper strip and paste it again, and in order to avoid such mistakes in the future, you need to use a vertical or plumb line, the role of which can be played by an ordinary weight on a thin thread.

Spots, wrinkles and swelling

As a rule, the cause of these unpleasant phenomena is non-compliance with the temperature regime, as well as instructions for the preparation of glue. Bubbles form when air gets under the wallpaper. To prevent their appearance, immediately after sticking the strip on the wall, it must be carefully smoothed out with a soft, clean rag, drawing it from the center to the edges.

Also, the cause of swelling, folds and other deformations can be the low temperature of the room, the adhesive composition, as well as drafts. Proper wallpaper gluing should be carried out at room temperature, windows should be closed in the room, and the temperature of the glue should be approximately 30-35 degrees Celsius. If work is carried out in the summer in extreme heat, the room must first be moistened by placing several containers of water on the floor. Upon completion of work, the room should remain unventilated for at least a day.

Strictly adhere to the instructions for preparing the glue. Glues of animal origin should not be heated too much, as this may cause them to lose their properties. Also remember that for each type of wallpaper you need to use a different type of glue. So, if you use strong vinyl glue when gluing thin paper wallpapers, swelling, stains and stains may appear on them.

Note: small swellings can be eliminated by injecting glue under the problem area with a syringe. After that, the area is carefully smoothed.

Wallpaper peeling

It happens when the temperature regime and adhesive preparation technologies are not observed (see above), as well as when gluing on an unprepared surface. Before proceeding with the main work, the wall must be thoroughly cleaned of the remnants of old wallpaper, cracks and irregularities must be puttied, and then the surface must be covered with an acrylic primer, which can be purchased at any hardware store.

Breaks in inner corners

This trouble happens when the inner corner is covered with a solid canvas. To avoid this, it is necessary to cut the wallpaper in such a way that the first strip overlaps the corner by only 3 centimeters. The next strip is glued close to the corner wall, overlapping a three-centimeter section.

Highly visible seams

Joints can be noticeable if you do not take into account the correct direction of the light. Wallpaper should be glued, starting from the window and moving deeper into the room. And only when gluing thin wallpaper with an overlap, you should follow the opposite direction, that is, from the corners to the window.

So, the room is free from furniture, pictures and photographs are removed from the walls and cleaned in a dry, clean place, children and pets are sent for a short vacation to their relatives. We begin the process. If you are gluing for the first time, call someone for help, it is more convenient to do it together. But even without outside help, the first do-it-yourself wallpapering in life can turn out to be almost perfect if you follow our advice.

We stock up on tools and materials

Before you start moving and taking out furniture, you need to stock up on tools and materials. Here is the first "short" list of what you need:
  1. Actually wallpaper and glue
  2. Wide and narrow spatulas for wallpaper stripping and puttying
  3. Containers for water or a special liquid for removing wallpaper: old wallpaper from the walls can be easily removed if it is properly wetted beforehand
  4. Container for diluting glue
  5. A special mixture or putty for leveling walls. Sometimes old wallpapers come off with small pieces of plaster, cracks and bumps are found under them - these holes must be repaired and leveled
  6. Sandpaper to finalize the wall
  7. Primer or primer (special solution for treating walls before gluing)
  8. Screwdriver, hammer, pliers for dismantling sockets, skirting boards and other things
  9. Scissors, and preferably a sharp wallpaper or clerical knife for trimming the edges of the wallpaper
  10. Tape measure to measure the desired length of the canvases
  11. Level or thread with a weight at the end (plumb) to align the wallpaper vertically
  12. A large wide brush or foam roller for applying glue and a couple of smaller brushes. With a wide brush or roller, it is convenient to apply glue to wallpaper and walls, and with a small one - to coat hard-to-reach places: corners, ledges, places behind radiators of radiators, etc.
  13. Soft plastic spatula
  14. Soft rags. Large dry rag - for smoothing the wallpaper. Wet clean cloth - to remove excess glue
  15. Stepladder or trestles
If everything from this list is there, you can begin the preparatory phase.

We count the number of wallpapers and glue


How much to take? Let's count rolls. Most often, rolls with a width of 53 and 106 cm are on sale. They are also called "half-meter" and "meter". European manufacturers also produce wallpapers with a width of 68 cm. The length of the canvas in a roll is 10.05 m. It is most common. Vinyl wallpapers 53 cm wide are sometimes sold in rolls of 15 m each, and non-woven wallpaper for painting meter wide is also supplied in 25-meter rolls. We recall the school geometry course, pick up a tape measure, measure the room and calculate the perimeter, summing up the length of all walls. For example, for a room measuring 3x4 m, the perimeter will be 3 + 4 + 3 + 4 \u003d 12 m. We multiply the perimeter by the height of the ceilings. Subtract the area of ​​windows and doors from this and get the total area of ​​the walls. S = (a * b) - ( (c * d) + (e * f)). S - the required area of ​​​​the walls of the room, a - the perimeter of the room, b - the height of the ceiling, c - the width of the window, d - the height of the window, e - the height of the doorway, f - the width of the doorway. We calculate the number of strips as follows: divide the perimeter of the room by the width of the roll . For example, we divide our 12 m perimeter by the roll width of 0.53 m. We get 22.6. We round up and get 23 stripes. For wallpapers with a large ornament or pattern that needs to be combined, designers recommend multiplying the perimeter by a factor of 1.18 when calculating. We count further. The length of one roll is most often 10 m. The height of our room is 2.50 m. For convenience, another 10 cm must be added to the ceiling height. Thus, we get a strip height of 2.65 m. If we divide the length of the roll (10 m) by this number (2.65 m), then we will get 3 full strips from one roll of wallpaper. Do not worry about the rest: they can perfectly paste over the space above and below the window or above the door.
Be sure to take one or two rolls for a spare. Even a super professional can easily ruin one or two wallpapers. It happens. If they do not come in handy, then whole unpacked rolls can be returned to the store within three weeks after purchase (if, of course, you have kept the receipt and labels). The amount of glue is also determined by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. For different types of wallpaper, different types of glue are used. For paper, any universal one is suitable; for non-woven or vinyl, you need glue designed only for this type of wallpaper. Any box of glue is supplied with instructions, where it is written how to dilute the mass, in what proportion, and for what area it will be enough.

Preparing the walls


So, the materials are purchased, the tool is prepared. Now you can get to work. We start by preparing the walls.

1. Remove the old coating


If wallpaper was pasted on the walls, remove them. So that the old wallpaper can be easily removed, they need to be properly wetted. We take a rag or sponge in our hands and wet the wallpaper abundantly. You can use a special water sprayer - the same as you spray houseplants or moisten the laundry while ironing. Washable wallpapers need to be cut a little so that moisture gets into the bottom layer. Attention: before removing old wallpaper with water, be sure to turn off the power so that moisture does not get into working sockets and switches. After the wallpaper gets wet, carefully remove the old panels. Five minutes is enough for paper wallpaper to peel off, vinyl and non-woven - a little more. If the wallpaper does not lend itself, we scrape it off with a spatula, trying not to damage the wall. If the wall was painted with water-based paint or whitewashed with lime mortar, we wash everything off with a mild soap solution. Oil based paint can be removed with special paint stripping solutions. They are sold in any building supermarket. You can use coarse sandpaper and just peel off the paint with it. If the paint does not come off, peel it off with a spatula.

2. Align and prepare the wall


Even if you very carefully remove paint or wallpaper, the wall will have to be leveled and processed. Therefore, the cracked plaster is removed with a spatula. After that, we treat the wall with a primer solution and level it with putty or a special leveling mixture. A primer is a useful thing. It not only contributes to better adhesion of the leveling mixture to the wall, but also performs an antibacterial function: it usually contains substances that prevent the formation of mold and fungus. If the damage to the wall is significant, it makes sense to re-plaster it - it's cheaper than leveling it with putty. After the putty or new plaster has dried, we treat the wall again with a primer or primer (a special solution based on PVA glue). We apply it on the wall with a roller or a wide brush, without sparing. On such a treated wall, the wallpaper will hold much stronger.

Gluing wallpaper


First of all, prepare a place where you will measure, cut and smear wallpaper with glue. It can be a clean area of ​​the floor or a piece of oilcloth spread on the floor. Prepare your tools so they are always at hand. Dilute the glue according to the instructions. Set up a ladder. And start.
  • Unwind the roll and measure the web to the desired length. Cut it off with sharp scissors or a special sharp knife. Cut the wallpaper strictly horizontally, use a metal ruler for this. In order not to damage the floor, place a large cutting board under the wallpaper at the cut point.
  • Carefully read the instructions that come with each roll. Some wallpapers require glue to be applied to the canvas, some to the surface of the wall, some to both the wall and the canvas. Spread the canvas on the floor or oilcloth and apply glue to it (if you are gluing paper or vinyl wallpaper)

  • Let the wallpaper absorb some of the glue. Five to seven minutes will be enough. After that, carefully lift the wallpaper by the upper edge and proceed to sticking
  • Start gluing from the window. A window or other opening will be a great vertical reference. To align the wallpaper vertically, use a level. It is enough to level the first canvas, and glue the next ones, focusing on it

All types of wallpaper are always glued with closed windows and doors. The room should be warm, around 20°C. Draft is the first enemy of fresh wallpaper. Glue in a draft dries very quickly, and in some places the wallpaper simply does not have time to stick.

  • Gently lift the canvas to the ceiling and stick to the wall, pressing well. Gently bring each next canvas to the previous one (end-to-end or with a slight overlap, if the type of wallpaper allows it) and smooth it. For smoothing, take a soft spatula or a large dry cloth. Smooth from the middle of the canvas to its edges

  • If air bubbles appear under the wallpaper, they need to be smoothed out by squeezing the air over the edges of the canvas. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wallpaper. If the air bubble is not squeezed out or there is a risk of tearing the wallpaper, pierce it with a needle and gently squeeze out the air
  • Paste the corners with two canvases, connecting them slightly overlapping. If you paste over the corner with one sheet, then with a high degree of probability folds form in this corner or the wallpaper will completely lag behind the corner after drying
  • How to deal with sockets and switches? First, turn off the electricity. Remove covers from all sockets and switches. After the canvas is pasted, carefully make a cruciform incision in the wallpaper in place of the rosette. Bend the resulting corners and cut off the excess with sharp scissors.

After you have dealt with the sticking, close the room and try not to use it for at least a day. In no case do not open windows, do not create drafts, otherwise after a short time your new wallpaper will peel off the wall with a nasty crunch.


When choosing wallpaper, consider the type of room and the condition of the walls. For the living room, bedroom, corridor and other rooms where the walls are dry and smooth, any kind of wallpaper will do. For rooms with high humidity: kitchen, bathroom and toilet - choose washable vinyl wallpaper. The disadvantages of uneven walls will be hidden by embossed wallpapers, as well as wallpapers with a large cell or a dense pattern.


To trim the edges above the baseboard and below the ceiling evenly, do this before the glue dries. Use a spatula as a stopper, and keep the cutter horizontally, otherwise the paper may accidentally tear. Useful life hack: in order not to scrape hardened glue from the knife, rinse it with hot water before trimming the edges.

For beginners, wallpapering is scary in principle, and when they see a battery that cannot be removed, this is a real reason to panic. In fact, everything is not so scary: cut the wallpaper at the places where the pipes are connected and the battery is attached, stick the wallpaper according to the instructions above, and smooth out the bumps with a mop wrapped in a clean rag, remove traces of glue. Done, you are amazing!

That's all. As you can see, wallpapering is not such a terrible process as it seems at first. Only those who don't try don't succeed. We wish you everything went well and easily!

Knowing how to glue wallpaper by one person, you can avoid conflicts and complete the entire amount of work in a short time.

Most often, it is two people who are engaged in pasting the room with wallpaper. One stands on a raised platform (ladder, stool) and waits for the second to cut off the desired strip and smear it with glue.

Then the wallpaper is applied to the wall, combined with the joint efforts of the previous strip. Then one smoothes, removes irregularities, and the other watches the process.

Useful information:

And everything would be fine, but in most cases such work is accompanied by disputes and often ends in a quarrel. Moreover, all stages of the process can be performed alone.

Preparatory stage

First you need to prepare the following set of tools:

  • ladder;
  • large capacity for breeding glue;
  • cuvette for prepared glue;
  • wallpaper ruler, tape measure, pencil, level;
  • brush from 50 mm wide;
  • paint roller (width 250 mm);
  • rubber roller for smoothing wallpaper;
  • rubber roller for smoothing joints;
  • sponge, napkin for cleaning surfaces from excess glue;
  • pliers, screwdriver, electrical tape.

You will also need material to cover the floor. It can be cardboard or wide film. If the wallpaper is too heavy, then a cone-shaped roller with ribs will be required. They smooth out the joints. When the wallpaper requires a particularly careful attitude, the roller is replaced with a special wallpaper brush. You can purchase a plastic wallpaper spatula. It is used to form geometrically correct angles. If the wallpaper has a nasty texture, you can smooth it out with such a spatula, replacing a regular roller.

How to prepare the surface?

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to carry out a certain set of works with the surface. No matter how fashionable and attractive the wallpaper is, the overall look will not be perfect until there is an uneven surface under the finishing materials, replete with potholes and ledges. That's why . And each layer requires a good primer. Such walls will last more than one year, the wallpaper on them can be changed many times.

Photo 2 shows how to make marks with scissors. The alignment of the strip in the area where there is an incision is shown in photo 3. The place of the inflection is smoothed out by hand.

Next, a strip of wallpaper is cut off with scissors. How to do this is shown in photo 4. The edge will turn out a little uneven. There is nothing wrong with this, because an allowance of 10 cm is left. It allows for a more accurate and even trimming already in place.

The strip that was previously used for marking should be set aside, only first you need to make a mark indicating the upper part. And put a number on it. How this can be done is shown in photo 5. Then the strip is folded as shown in photo 6.

It is more convenient to arrange the prepared strip near the wall for which they are intended. The vertical position will help save space. See photo 7.

Do the same with the next canvas. See photos 8, 9. This method of preparing the wallpaper allows you to subsequently dock the pattern correctly, quickly straighten the canvases, and save space and time.

In the standard method of preparation, strips cut to size are stacked flat on top of each other. Next, the upper strip is smeared with glue, while the edges of the lower ones get damaged, get dirty, then the overall picture deteriorates.

How can you mark the surface of the walls?

Wall marking is a crucial stage. Usually the instructions say about the need to use a plumb line. But today, the use of a plumb line is a thing of the past. Enjoy . At the same time, both the water level and the laser level are taken. Using this tool, mark how the first strip from the corner should go. To do this, draw vertical lines. The level determines the direction of the position of the curb, fastened horizontally, coordinates the docking zones.

In photo 10 you can see how to use the water level. You need to pay attention to where the bubble should be. Experts recommend that when marking with a pencil, make light strokes without pressing on it. A clear bright line will show through the non-woven wallpaper and ruin the look. Even if you take another type of wallpaper, they can also get dirty with particles of graphite.

Leave a tolerance for the width. If after measurements it turns out that the wallpaper strip has a width of 53 cm, it is necessary to deviate from the corner by 54 cm. In this case, the mark will be constantly visible. So the person sticking the wallpaper will be able to constantly see the landmark and will not allow failures and distortions.

How to apply glue and stick canvases?

If the preparation was successful, it is necessary to begin the pasting process. While the work was carried out with the last stripes, the first ones were already well straightened. Glue is diluted according to the instructions on the package. Regardless of the type of glue, clean cold water is prepared. Glue should be poured little by little, in a small stream. In this case, the composition must be constantly stirred.

No need to rush and pour 2 packs of glue into the bucket at once. The mixture will gradually begin to thicken, the lumps that appear will interfere with the work. When choosing glue, you must take into account the features of the wallpaper. Each variety needs its own type of glue. A wide cardboard or prepared film is spread on the floor. Wallpaper is laid on it with the base up. For more convenient use, a small amount of glue is poured into a cuvette, into which the roller is then dipped. The most common application method is shown in photo 11.

When applying glue, pay special attention to the edge part. Today they produce glue with an indicator. After dilution, it has a certain color shade, which allows you to know exactly where the glue has already been applied, and where it has not yet. If the glue gets on the surface under the wallpaper, there is no need to panic. It can then be easily removed. When working, you need to make sure that the adhesive layer is not too thick, and the application itself is even.

When the glue is applied, the wallpaper folds in half. How to do this correctly, you can see in photo 12. In this position, the wallpaper should be at least 3 minutes. This time is enough for the glue to be absorbed. You can increase the time to 5 minutes when the wallpaper is too thick. If the next section of the wall is even, without protrusions and various details, you can immediately prepare the 2nd strip. But you shouldn't get carried away with it. The number of prepared strips should not be more than 3. Otherwise, they will begin to dry out and stick together.

When the strip is ready, it is unfolded, gradually climbing the ladder. It is necessary to hold the strip by the part on which there is a mark indicating that this is the top. When applying wallpaper to the wall, it must be borne in mind that it is necessary to make an overlap from above. Its size is individual, depending on the characteristics of the room.

From photo 13 you can see where to start gluing and fitting. First, work with the upper part. When everything is ready there, they descend from the stepladder and straighten it, apply the lower part. When everything is docked, you can start working with a smoothing roller, spatula or brush. Movements come from the top, from the middle. Then they go down. How to squeeze out air can be seen in photo 14.

When the wallpaper is smoothed out, the air is removed, it is necessary to roll the joints with a special rubber roller. However, the seams do not like too active exposure. Therefore, you should not rub them and put pressure on this area. When excess glue appears, it is carefully removed with a sponge or napkin, they are subsequently rinsed in water.

If you do not put too much pressure on the seams, they will look almost perfect after drying.

How to paste over areas with sockets and switches?

All sockets, switches, other parts that violate the geometry of the walls must be removed before wallpapering. Firstly, this will allow you to subsequently change them to less voluminous models without any problems. Secondly, the look of the switch installed over the wallpaper is more aesthetic and modern.

The part of the wallpaper that remains under the outlet or switch, some advise cutting it crosswise, and then bending the paper to the sides. It is unsafe in case of fire. It is better to make a cutout that matches the shape of the device, only smaller. This can be seen in photos 16, 17.

Slots are made immediately after gluing the corresponding strip. Firstly, later you can make a mistake with the place. Secondly, after drying, the wallpaper will stretch, so it will be more difficult to make cuts. Before removing sockets and switches, turn off the current, and carefully isolate all contacts and put them inside the mounting box.

How to cut off excess?

Here you need a flexible ruler - this is a plastic tool 60 cm long, a strip of stainless steel is mounted in its body. It is flexible, so the ruler can be pressed tightly even on uneven surfaces. What such a tool looks like and how to use it can be seen in photo 18.

The peculiarity of using a wallpaper knife is that after each cut it is necessary to break off a small fragment of its blade. In this case, it will always maintain good cutting ability. When the excess is cut off, the surface is rubbed off. Photo 19 shows exactly this moment.

From photo 19, you can see that despite the wet state of the wallpaper, the cut surface is even, does not have any villi, fibers. Such accuracy can only be achieved through the use of a flexible ruler.

How to paste over the area where heating radiators are installed?

The installation site of heating radiators is considered the most difficult for the wallpapering process. To do all the work qualitatively, you will have to make every effort. There are fewer problems in new buildings, there you can find radiators that can be dismantled, and after pasting, install them in their original place. Photo 20 shows how the radiators are dismantled. After its removal, wall fasteners and floor outlets are left, equipped with "American" type connections.

In this case, pasting will not be a big problem. However, the process of removing the battery and then installing it will take time. Before disconnecting, it is necessary to shut off the water supply, then the return line, drain everything that is inside the radiator. At the same time, we must not forget about pressure. It is reduced by unscrewing the shut-off screw on the drain valve.

If the situation is such that it is impossible to remove the radiator, you will have to put strips of about 15 cm under it. If the battery is working, you need to additionally coat the surface under it with glue.

Video of wallpapering alone

  1. A stepladder is better than scaffolding and "goats", which often damage the surface of the walls.
  2. or with fiberglass, glue must be applied directly to the wall. Therefore, there is no need to pre-cut the wallpaper into separate strips.
  3. A small allowance (1 - 2 cm) for the slopes will allow you to get a neat edge. You just have to wait until the wallpaper is dry, and then evenly cut off the excess.
  4. Docking panels in the corners is impractical. Most often, a transition is made from one wall to another, leaving a large allowance equal to the vertical deviation of the wall. The second canvas is glued to the first overlap, guided by the indication of the level. Then both canvases are cut through, and the excess is removed.
  5. It is better to lay the floor covering after pasting the walls. The exception is tiles and parquet.
  6. The parquet is covered with cardboard before pasting. You can not lay a film on cardboard.
  7. In the process of work, it is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of hands. They are periodically wiped with a napkin, which is thoroughly rinsed from time to time.

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When carrying out repairs at home, most people purchase wallpaper for wall decoration. Today they are very popular among buyers of finishing materials, as before, but not everyone knows how to properly glue them on their own.

It is important to know how to properly design and combine wallpaper, as well as what rules and methods to use.

Peculiarities

Wallpapering is a process that requires careful preparation. So, the surfaces for gluing must be absolutely flat and smooth. Old coatings must be completely disposed of. In addition, it is necessary to decide on the choice of the most suitable wallpaper and choose the highest quality and most beautiful cover design.

Before gluing, be sure to do some preparatory work. So, you need to turn off the electricity and remove all covers of switches and sockets. When gluing, you must also get rid of all skirting boards. Thus, you can make your work much easier.

The easiest way is to paste over the walls yourself with paper or non-woven wallpaper, but it is best to choose medium-density models. They will adhere well to the walls, and their sticking will take less time.

All wallpapers are glued only longitudinally, in no case horizontally. The wallpaper is first of all glued on completely free walls, and only then separate pieces are cut out and adjusted to fit windows, doors, passages, radiators and other interior features. When wallpapering, it is important to make all measurements of the room and calculate the amount of wallpaper you need. If you decide to stick colored wallpaper with drawings or combine coatings of different appearance, then you will need much more materials.

The stock must be left for the subsequent docking. If you have chosen wallpaper for painting, then you can paint only after you have completely pasted them, and they have completely dried out. Some features have a gluing of ready-made wallpapers with a special composition - these are self-adhesive wallpapers. So, the rolls are soaked in water, and the glue, thus, dries up. After that, they are glued to the walls without the use of additional adhesives and only rolled out on the surface.

Types and characteristics

Before you purchase wallpaper for subsequent wall decoration, you must first select them from the range presented. Manufacturers now offer a large number of different types of wallpaper, which differ in their quality characteristics and appearance.

When choosing, you should rely on the reliability and quality of the material, the operating conditions of the wallpaper, and also on the room in which you plan to stick them.

paper wallpaper

This is the most common and famous wallpaper that is popular all over the world. They are quite thin and at the same time are quite inexpensive. If you purchase this type of wallpaper, you can later easily replace them with new paper ones. Moreover, this process will not cause any inconvenience.

Expensive and durable coatings are more difficult to remove, in addition, such a change in the interior will take more financial costs. And if you replace paper wallpaper, you will spend quite a bit of money and at the same time change the situation. Manufacturers present a wide range of colors and patterns on these coatings. The material is completely environmentally friendly and does not cause allergies. In addition, such wallpapers pass air well and allow the walls to breathe.

But this coating has several disadvantages. So, they quickly lose their color brightness when exposed to direct sunlight, wear out quickly. If you have small children or even pets at home, they will easily rip them off. Paper covers cannot be washed at all.

In addition, they deteriorate from exposure to high humidity. This applies, first of all, to simplex wallpapers. These are the thinnest single-layer models, which are considered the cheapest of all options.

Two-layer or duplex wallpaper

They are presented as the main base layer, which fixes them well to the wall and the top decorative layer. Due to the presence of a base, the outer layer is not impregnated with glue and stains and stains do not remain on it. In addition, such models do not shine through at all.

Many models have embossed patterns or embossing. They are thicker and more reliable, but also quite inexpensive. They are easier to glue than ordinary paper ones.

They do not slip off the wall after impregnation with glue and adhere well to the surface. Such wallpapers are also presented in the form of plain smooth coatings, which involve pasting the walls and their subsequent painting. A big advantage of this type of wallpaper is the ability to change colors several times. There are also structural wallpapers for painting with a pronounced relief.

Vinyl wallpapers

They have paper as a base, as well as interlining. But the big difference from classic paper wallpapers is that their surface is treated with polyvinyl chloride. They may also have voluminous patterns or may be smooth.

This coating option has higher quality characteristics.

So, they do not fade from exposure to direct sunlight and tolerate high humidity. That is why they are glued even in the bathroom and in the kitchen. But such wallpapers do not pass air well, so the walls do not breathe, and in such rooms it is necessary to systematically ventilate. But now manufacturers are introducing some models that have a porous structure. Thanks to this, the coating breathes and creates a comfortable microclimate in the room.

Vinyl wallpaper is quite expensive. They serve for a very long time, up to 10 years. So, manufacturers present different models of vinyl wallpaper, among them models with a hard vinyl coating are very popular. They can even endure many external influences of a mechanical nature.

Another model is smooth vinyl wallpaper, which does not have a hard floor and therefore is more vulnerable to external influences. Silk-screened wallpaper is a popular vinyl wallpaper model that looks very presentable in appearance. Such products are produced using hot stamping technology, so it seems that the wallpaper is made from natural silk threads.

Foamed vinyl wallpapers are the most reliable products that have a dense embossed structure. They are very durable and high quality. Any vinyl wallpaper is quite capricious for sticking, because they have a lot of weight. On the packaging, manufacturers always indicate what composition is needed in order to glue them well.

Non-woven wallpaper

This type of wallpaper is very popular because it has a high-quality composition. They are made from cellulose. The coating itself includes two layers - a non-woven fabric and a polymer.

They are more durable than regular paper and even with duplex wallpaper. In addition, they can be used to hide wall defects, such as cracks or bumps.

Such wallpapers are much easier to glue, because if you use the right technology, then bubbles do not form under them, and the coating does not change its appearance. They are easier to dock than other models. They can be moved while sticking. In addition, you can choose absolutely any invoice.

Such products are suitable for mounting on plaster, including Rotband, cement, slab, wooden walls.

In addition, when gluing, no glue is applied to the surface of the canvas itself. Cloths cover the wall with pre-applied glue. Such wallpapers can also be easily covered with oil or acrylic paint, if you choose the most neutral option. Experts believe that it is non-woven wallpaper that is easiest to pick up and stick, so they are often purchased for self-finishing the room.

Textile or fabric wallpapers

This option is based on textiles and paper. It consists of several layers. Textile materials are applied to the base. It can be linen, cotton or synthetics.

Depending on the quality of the textile material, the cost of this wall covering changes. They do an excellent job of their decorative function. In addition, the coatings have the qualities of sound insulation and thermal insulation, so they are perfect for gluing in any room.

But these coatings are quite difficult to apply on the wall on their own, not everyone will be able to stick. In addition, they are quite difficult to care for, if they get dirty, it will be problematic to wash the stains. They do not tolerate wet cleaning.

Fabric wallpapers bring coziness and comfort to the room. This is especially true for models made of silk, jute textiles, felt and velor. Such wallpaper can be taken care of with a vacuum cleaner so that dust does not remain between the fibers of the fabric.

Glass fiber

These are quite reliable and unusual wallpapers, which are made using glass fibers, which are subsequently impregnated with a special liquid. Thanks to this, wall coverings have fire-fighting qualities. In addition, they are resistant to any, even mechanical damage. This is the most durable and reliable wallpaper that can serve more than 25 years.

They are easy to care for and do not attract dust at all. The coating is natural and completely safe for human health, since the woven base is breathable. They look very presentable, but the price tag on them is clearly too high.

The liquid wallpaper

This is a new type of wallpaper that is not glued, it is applied like plaster. They are sold in powder form and then diluted. This solution is carefully distributed along the wall. When the coating dries, it looks completely identical to the usual classic wallpaper.

Manufacturers also provide washable wallpapers that tolerate wet cleaning well.

These are new generation models that are perfect for gluing in the kitchen. Bamboo wallpapers are also popular now. This is a fairly dense eco-friendly coating that looks natural and natural. But such products are quite difficult to glue.

Manufacturers present many other types of wallpaper: cork, palm, quartz, metallized. But their independent gluing is quite complicated, not everyone can handle such work. By the type of decor, there are classic plain wallpapers with a smooth surface or embossed coatings. Popular coatings, in the manufacture of which the technique of hot stamping is used.

As for smooth options, coatings such as fiberglass or photo wallpaper are quite popular. They are used for pasting one wall. Their main function is to create an accent and attract attention. Such canvases are whole works of art in the form of paintings or abstract compositions.

Tools

When pasting wallpaper, you will need some tools:

  • In order to level the walls before wallpapering, you will need to use a tape measure, a laser level, a long pile roller, a smoothing brush, a soft-edged trowel, a construction knife, a narrow metal trowel, a sponge, a container for glue, a pencil and, of course, a ladder - ladder.
  • For further work, you will need a special nozzle - a mixer, so that you can knead the putty. The mixer attachment is inserted into an electric drill, so this tool will also be required.

  • It is better to have several spatulas in the set, which differ in their thickness and shape. So, the most necessary will be straight, even products with a width of 5 to 50 cm. You will also need a classic corner spatula in order to be able to display external and internal corners. In another way, it is called a profile spatula.
  • To rub the wall to smooth the surface before gluing, you will need a grater. It can be an abrasive mesh or emery. In some cases, even genuine leather is used.

  • When sticking, you will definitely resort to using the building level. It is useful when leveling walls to control their perfect verticality and smooth surfaces.
  • The roller is necessary in order to be able to apply a primer or putty on the walls.

It significantly speeds up the process of applying these materials.

  • In addition to the container in which you will knead the mortar and glue, you will need a bucket or basin of water. In it, you will soak the tools in the process of work, so that later you can easily wash off the building materials from them.
  • In order to level the walls, you will need two types of putty: the first will serve as the base, and the second will serve as the finish. Your work will be facilitated by a ready-made putty composition. It can be purchased at any hardware store so as not to prepare it yourself.
  • In addition, you will definitely need a primer. With its help, you can get rid of harmful microbes. To do this, it is better to use compositions with special additives from mold.

Surface preparation

After you have chosen the wallpaper and prepared all the tools, you need to decide on the amount of this coating. When buying wallpaper that you need to cover one room, it is important to choose completely identical coatings. You need to pay attention to their article and release batch. Thus, all rolls will have the same shade and uniform color.

Wallpaper try to buy with a margin so that you have enough for pasting all the walls completely. It is better that all vertical sections of the walls can be covered with whole sheets. Thus, the joints between the sheets will only be wide. Horizontal joints are unacceptable and look unpresentable.

Preparatory work:

  • Before re-gluing the wallpaper, it is necessary to take out all the furniture and, preferably, dismantle the split system. You also need to completely remove the old coatings and start plastering the walls. Many people use soapy water to effectively remove the old coating. It allows you to soften it and quickly remove it. Wallpaper glue or PVA can be added to the soap solution. It will dissolve the old coating faster.
  • But if you previously had moisture-resistant or washable wallpapers pasted, then you must first cut them, then make notches, and only then apply a soapy solution. After you moisten the surfaces with the old coating with this composition, you need to let it soak in so that the wallpaper swells and after a while you can easily dismantle it.

  • Wallpaper is removed after a couple of hours with a spatula. But even in this way, not all of the old coating can be completely removed. This procedure may have to be carried out several times.

There is also a special solution that allows you to soften the old coating and quickly remove it to replace it with a new one.

  • But removing enamel or old paint is much more difficult. If the paint layer is thin, then it can be peeled off with a spatula, but when the paint is thick and old, it is necessary to tap the surface with a hatchet and clean the walls with a flat cutter.
  • Some prepare the walls by removing whitewash from them. It must be washed off with warm soapy water, and then removed with a spatula. If the whitewash is very thin, then it can be easily washed off with hot water and a cloth.

  • Having removed the old coating and determined the number of wallpapers for gluing, it is necessary to correctly prepare the surface of the walls for further repairs. At this stage, insulation can be carried out using foam or foam. All defects must be hidden in advance. This way you can avoid focusing on them. After all, not all wall coverings are able to close the flaws of wall surfaces.
  • Some wallpapers, even the most expensive ones, for example, fabric ones, can emphasize the imperfections of the walls, so the surface must be prepared most carefully. If you prepare the walls poorly, then it will be quite difficult for you to combine adjacent canvases, the junction lines will be uneven, and the corners at the end and beginning of the wall will be crooked. The wallpaper will wrinkle and even tear.

  • On the irregularities and defects of the walls, bubbles from the wallpaper often form, which subsequently lead to peeling of the pasted coating and damage to the entire wall repair as a whole. That is why it is important to initially prime the surface of the walls.
  • If the material from which the wall is made is porous, then it will be highly susceptible to moisture. This means that without pre-finishing, the wallpaper will not last even a year. They will peel off and deteriorate quickly. The primer is recommended to be produced, regardless of what material the walls are made of.

  • After the walls are completely cleaned, you need to align them. In some cases, old walls begin to crumble and crumble. If you are faced with this problem, then manufacturers recommend resorting to treatment with a bonding primer.
  • If protrusions are found on the wall, they must first be knocked down. Cracks are sealed with a special compound. But at the same time, it is better to first expand the cracks, then deepen them, and only then close them.

Thus, you fill each crack with a repair compound as much as possible and correctly repair the surface of the walls.

  • Expanded cracks must be cleaned of dust and old plaster. You can do this with a damp sponge. The extended crack must be completely covered with a primer. It is important to carefully treat the entire inside of such a defect, and then the outside. After that, the primer must be well dried.
  • Then you should use the first layer of putty - the starting one, which will act as the base. It must be applied to those places where the cracks were smeared. After all the resulting patches are completely dried, you need to clean the walls with a grater to level the surfaces.

  • Things are a little more complicated with some coatings, which include, for example, drywall. The joints of the sheets must be glued with a special mesh, which is covered on top with a thick level of putty. After this layer is also dried, it is necessary to treat the walls with an antiseptic primer. This special composition allows you to increase the adhesion of finishing materials and wall surfaces. In addition, it will extend the life of the wallpaper.
  • The primer-concrete contact is applied with a roller, but it is quite difficult for them to process the corners, you need to soak them as much as possible, since it is there that the mold first makes its way. If you cannot reach the corners, then it is better to treat these areas with a brush. The primer should be allowed to dry a little. But if the coating dries very quickly, then you need to apply at least two more layers of this solution.

  • After that, it is necessary to make a putty or use a ready-made, pre-purchased composition. The first preparatory layer will be the starting or leveling. It can be worn on almost any surface, including concrete, plastered walls, panels, OSB, plywood, lime, fiberboard, laminated chipboard, OSB-board. The starting layer must be applied to the walls with the widest trowel. It needs to be laid in a certain way.

So, the thickness of the applied layer should be approximately 3 mm, in some places even thicker, but the entire wall should be a single flat plane. You need to move from the corner of the room with smooth and uniform movements.

It is better to hold the spatula at an angle of 45 °, since this way no traces of it will be visible on the walls.

After the solution is applied to all the walls, you need to illuminate the surface with the help of light bulbs and carefully examine it: will the flaws of the wall cast a shadow. If the walls are even, then you will not need further leveling, but if irregularities are detected, then you need to carefully level them with a spatula until the mortar has completely dried.

  • After you have applied the putty, you need to wipe this surface. You can do this with your own hands using a hard sandpaper or grater, or using a special electric grinding.
  • After that, you need to apply a second layer of putty. It should finally hide all the bumps in the wall. The finish layer is usually much thinner than the base layer. After applying it, it is important to find out if there are any irregularities, again using the light.
  • Finishing putty is applied in two layers, but each of them must be allowed to dry. In addition, both outer layers must undergo high-quality grouting, and the last one is the most gentle. For her, it is better to use genuine leather. After you have completely covered the walls with putty and let it dry, you need to apply a primer on it. Only after that it will be possible to proceed to wallpapering.

Technology

Pasting the walls with your own hands is a fairly simple job if you choose the right coatings for this. With their help, you can simply and without problems stick the wallpaper on your own evenly without subsequent plywood. Non-professionals need to follow a certain technology that allows you to quickly glue the coating on the walls. First you need to choose a scheme for sticking wallpaper. The canvases should be distributed over all walls in such a way that the joints are as invisible as possible.

  • When sticking any wallpaper, it is necessary to move from the window, which is located opposite the entrance to the room, alternately in different directions towards the door. Thus, if you overlap the wallpaper, the shadow from the sheets will not be noticeable.

  • But if you glue the wallpaper end-to-end, as is most often done lately, then you can stick to a different technology. This option involves wallpapering from the corner you see first when you enter the room. From it in different directions you need to move one by one up to the door.

Walls should be pasted over vertically with whole canvases without horizontal joints, only if this is not a special combination method.

  • If one-piece meter-long wallpaper fell on the corner of the room, then it is necessary to cut them in this place so that there are no bends. Because of them, the wallpaper can quickly peel off and begin to bubble. If you come across a fairly old wallpaper with an edge, then first you need to cut it evenly, but now such models are not common. Therefore, you only need to cut sheets. You need to know the height of the ceilings in order to measure the right amount of material.

  • The cut off part of the wallpaper should be about 5-7 cm longer than the height from floor to ceiling. This allowance must be divided in two and leave part on top and part on bottom. It is important to mark a line in the center perpendicular to the edge so that you can cut the wallpaper evenly. To do this, it is better to use a corner or the method of bending the wallpaper. You need to cut off the wallpaper with a very sharp knife or scissors, this must be done smoothly and evenly.
  • After you cut the roll into pieces, they must be stacked on top of each other in the sequence in which you will apply them to the walls. It is better to cut the wallpaper on each wall in turn, as it is pasted, and not on the whole room at once. For narrow sections of the room where there are doors, windows should be cut later. After all the smooth walls are pasted over, you can move on to the detailed finishing of these intermittent sections of the walls.

  • After you have cut the wallpaper, you need to prepare the glue. To do this, you must follow the instructions that are indicated on the box with the composition. Many adhesive mixtures are diluted in water in the proportions indicated on the package. Water must be stirred periodically during the process of falling asleep so that lumps do not form.
  • Make sure there is no draft in the room before wallpapering, otherwise the wallpaper will peel away from the walls because the wallpaper has dried unevenly. After that, you need to draw a vertical line on the wall, which will help align the edges of the wallpaper from the corner. To do this, it is better to use a laser level.

You need to outline two points and connect them with a ruler. But the line must be made thin and barely noticeable so that the pencil does not form streaks when it gets wet on the wall.

  • On each specific type of wallpaper, it is indicated what glue should be applied to: on the canvas itself or on the wall. Most often, glue is applied only to paper wallpapers, but non-woven, vinyl wallpapers are glued to walls already covered with glue.

But many craftsmen indicate that it is better to apply glue both to the wallpaper and to the wall.

You will use more adhesive, but the coating will be fixed more efficiently and reliably. In addition, it will be easier for you to align the sheets, since the wallpaper will slide well, but not too abruptly on the wall.

  • The wallpaper must be laid out on a flat, smooth and clean surface with the inner side up. You need to apply glue on it with a roller, without missing a millimeter. After that, one edge of the canvas must be slightly bent towards the center and the second edge should be smeared, which should also be bent towards the center. In this form, the wallpaper must be left for impregnation.
  • In some cases, you will have to wait from 5 to 10 minutes, during which time you can additionally apply glue to the wall. To do this, you can use both a brush and a roller. After that, you can unfold the wallpaper and stick the canvas on the wall. It must be applied strictly according to the marks so that the joints are as even as possible. Apply wallpaper from top to bottom. The allowance must be located evenly.

  • The most important thing in this case is to set the right direction for the wallpaper. It is better not to open the lower edge of the wallpaper initially, since the coating can quickly stick to the wall; when folded, it will simply hang down. After you have glued the top and center parts of the wallpaper, you can unfold the bottom part and glue it.
  • After you have attached the entire canvas, you need to smooth it from the center to all edges, and then from top to bottom. If you have just smoothed the wallpaper, then you still have the opportunity to check how evenly the canvas is located relative to the line you previously outlined. If deviations are noticeable, then you need to slightly align the wallpaper by gently sliding them.
  • After that, you can make the final fixation of the wallpaper canvas. Then you need to attach the wallpaper to the wall as tightly as possible. To do this, you can use a special plastic spatula or wallpaper brush, as well as a pressure roller. In this case, it is necessary to move from top to bottom, the so-called Christmas tree.

This technology of movements involves smoothing from the center of the canvas to the side and slightly up alternately on the right and left. Thus, you will remove excess glue and air bubbles from under the surface of the wallpaper.

But you need to move very carefully so as not to damage the surface of the wallpaper, especially if they are embossed or have a beautiful texture. If after that there are glue residues, you need to remove them with a special sponge previously moistened with water. This item should always be kept close at hand.

If you do not remove excess old adhesive, the surface will not be smooth.

  • After leveling, you can trim the top edge and bottom. It is better to do this after you have pasted all the wallpaper or after each canvas in turn. Some recommend that the final ironing be done on the surface of the wallpaper with a rubber roller of a large width. Thus, the coating will be very even and tightly fixed on the wall.

  • After that, it is necessary to prepare the following wallpaper canvases and begin to paste over the walls using the same technology. In this case, you need to start from the already evenly located edge of the previous wallpaper canvas. It must be placed as close as possible to the butt joint to the first wallpaper. It is important to combine the pattern if the coating has patterns.
  • It is important that there are no gaps between the canvases. It is better to coat the canvases at the joints with glue with a thin brush, and then roll this place with a narrow roller. The correct gluing technology involves checking the perfect verticality with a plumb line after every third wallpaper.

  • After you glue the entire wall, reaching the corner, you need to divide the corner sheet of wallpaper into 2 parts. Moreover, you need to measure the distance from the previous canvas to the corner line and add about a centimeter to the measured width. After each corner, it is necessary to again measure out a perfectly even vertical line so that you can build on it when gluing the next canvases.
  • In the corners, it is better to make a small overlap so that the canvases fit as well as possible to each other. At the outer corners, it is better to leave a margin of about 2 cm. This way the corner will be decorated more accurately. After you glue all solid walls, you need to move on to fragmentary wallpapering. Where there are doors and windows, you need to start pasting from the top down, selecting the sizes of the fragments in advance and cutting them out of the canvases.

  • After gluing the wallpaper, it is necessary to allow the coating to dry. Some wallpaper options require a different gluing technology. So, glass fiber is glued a little differently. They are not covered with glue. They need to process all the walls well.

In this case, you need to choose an adhesive composition that is designed for heavy wallpaper. Glass fiber has an important feature: the outer side of the rolls is hidden inside, so gluing them is a little easier.

But such wallpapers dry much longer, for this you need to wait a day.

Any gluing technology requires the use of some recommendations. So, you need to observe the temperature regime: the room should not be warmer than 25 degrees. It is better if the sun's rays do not fall into the room when wallpapering. Drafts are also unacceptable, the wallpaper should dry evenly.

Working with a drawing

Wallpaper with a pattern is a very elegant coating, which is used even more often than plain models. Popular wallpapers are floral, tiled, decorative stone or with abstract patterns. But all of them are glued with fitting and with the selection of a pattern. The wallpaper must be cut with a small allowance, and the second roll will need to be adjusted to the first, starting from the pattern on it so that the joint is completely closed and no seams are visible.

From each roll, you need to choose a pattern that will be as similar as possible to the ornament of the adjacent strip so that the docking is correct. But this way you will use up a lot of wallpaper, so you can use another method of fitting.

You need to take two rolls of wallpaper. From the top of the first one, you need to cut off about 40 cm. Then you need to take another roll, completely unwind it and cut off about 40 cm from the reverse end. This technology is due to the fact that when cutting wallpaper, machines in factories leave a small margin, which we thus remove when cutting. This can make fitting much easier.

Each roll is cut in turn and the pattern will fit together without any extra effort. This is a very simple and economical way, anyone can cope with such gluing and docking, even if he acts alone, without outside help. The most difficult thing to work with a pattern is when gluing in the corners of rooms.

It is necessary to overlap, and you need to select the wallpaper not to the edge of the first roll, but to the part that will be located right in the corner. The easiest way is to glue meter-long wallpaper with a pattern, since docking will not be so difficult. It is best to join the wallpaper before sticking and lay them out on the floor in the desired sequence, so that then you can only stick them next to each other.

By itself, the technology of sticking wallpaper with a pattern is not so complicated, so it is only important to join them correctly so that the pattern does not go astray, and the walls look more elegant and presentable.

Room design options

Different rooms need to be designed differently. It is especially difficult to glue when a built-in wardrobe or kitchen set is already installed. It is also quite difficult to glue wallpaper in the area of ​​​​the doorway, especially if you have to decorate the arch with them. In addition, certain requirements are imposed on wallpaper located in different rooms:

  • For the living room it is better to purchase only high-quality and elegant wallpapers. It is better if these are coatings with beautiful patterns. In this case, a horizontal combination is perfect, since this option looks very noble. In the living room, photo wallpapers are often glued, which are placed on one of the walls. In this case, the image is better to select, depending on the interior.

Landscape wallpapers are the most popular. But in modern styles, wallpaper with images of large metropolitan cities and their attractions is used.

Neutral wallpaper with monograms is also often glued to the living room. They are easier to dock because the pattern is constantly repeated. In addition, it looks more interesting. The living room is also often wallpapered with vertical stripes, or the method of vertical combination is used, as this allows you to raise the ceilings, making the living room more spacious and pompous.

  • Concerning bedrooms, then in this case it is better to use the highest quality and natural breathable wallpaper. In addition, they should not have too catchy pattern. For the bedroom, ordinary paper wallpapers are most often purchased. But since they quickly fade, you need to try to choose a coating with a less catchy and dim pattern. Otherwise, you will have to constantly curtain the windows with blackout curtains.

  • In the children's room glue wallpaper with special unusual patterns. It can be a photo wallpaper with images of cartoon characters or animals, birds, cars. For a children's room, paper or vinyl wallpapers are often bought because they are natural and hypoallergenic. Paper wallpapers are ideal for a children's room, because children often paint on the walls. Thus, you will not be sorry to replace old coatings with new ones.

  • For wall decoration in the office use wallpaper with a large pattern. It is better if they are as neutral and calm as possible in design.

But if the office has a small area, then you need to purchase coatings with a small pattern.

  • For kitchen it is better to buy washable wallpapers, since any dirt can be wiped off from them, including greasy stains. But fabric wallpapers are completely unsuitable for this room, like paper ones. This is due to the fact that it is almost impossible to remove stains from them, they quickly become dirty and lose their original gloss. You can stick ordinary paper wallpaper on the balcony, but if it is not insulated, then it is better to purchase non-woven or vinyl materials.

  • For bathroom and toilet it is better to choose a washable wallpaper or a coating that is resistant to moisture. Thus, fungus will not form there, and you can not worry about the integrity of your walls.

In some rooms, it may be difficult to stick wallpaper due to the fact that they already have a stretch ceiling. Initially, it is necessary to prepare it in such a way that gluing can be carried out. First you need to remove the decorative insert, which is located at the junction between the ceiling and the wall.

After that, you need to use masking tape to glue all the edges of the stretch ceiling around the perimeter. So you protect the already installed stretch ceiling from glue stains. After that, you can proceed to wallpapering using standard technology. When all the canvases are glued, you need to install a spatula to the edge of the wallpaper and cut off the excess part of the wallpaper. Then you should remove the masking tape and install the decorative insert back at the junction of the walls and wallpaper.

See the next video for the secrets of wallpaper stickers near the stretch ceiling.

Combination rules

When combining wallpaper, many prefer the horizontal method, this is the most popular option. It is a so-called bottom plinth of wallpaper, but it is quite wide. Usually it is made darker than the light upper part and the wallpaper is sized horizontally from a ratio of one to two. The top is always twice as large as the bottom.

In this case, it is possible to combine not only wallpaper, but also this material with another, when decorating walls, different methods and options are used. But this option has one important property: it allows you to make the ceiling in the hall higher.

Owners of rooms with high ceilings can afford another type of horizontal combination:

  • A narrow top can also be made along the ceiling, but when gluing it is important to properly align the top strip parallel to the floor so that the design of the room looks very harmonious. This method of gluing is perfect for decorating halls, dining rooms with high ceilings. With their help, you can slightly underestimate the ceilings and focus on them.

When combined in a horizontal way, you can use two contrasting shades or one related to the dark color scheme, and the second to the light one.

  • Another option is to combine wallpapers with the same texture, but with a different pattern, and the background color should be the same. A good combination option is to combine wallpapers with two different color schemes, but with one common texture. The vertical combination also looks stylish.

It is an alternation of different wallpaper canvases in color and design. Moreover, in this way it is possible to arrange both adjacent walls, and one. The canvases should be combined one through one or two through two. It is better if the coatings you choose do not contrast too much with each other. Try to choose an alternation of plain wallpaper with colored ones that have some kind of pattern or ornament.

  • But if you want to decorate an apartment or house in a more stylish and fashionable way, then you can resort to a vertical combination of wallpaper that contrasts in color. So, a combination of wide red and white stripes is popular. If you have chosen the method of contrasting combinations, then the canvases should be wider, and if you have chosen a vertical combination of light and similar-colored wallpapers, then the stripes may be narrower.
  • Another way to combine is to highlight the accent wall. You can highlight it with the help of photo wallpapers or bright coatings with an ornament. But in this way you can glue only one wall, preferably the shortest. At the same time, plain light wallpaper should be glued to other walls.

  • Combining using ceilings is another interesting way. So, one wall covering completely goes to the ceiling, while other walls and the floor are distinguished by different colors of the coverings. Thus, you make a fashionable and unusual accent. So you can interestingly decorate the ceiling in the attic. It will become a bright continuation of the wall and the advantage of such an apartment layout.

  • You can also combine wallpaper with a patchwork method. This is another interesting way that involves sticking small patches of wallpaper. And it is better to glue them end-to-end. To do this, choose about five different wallpaper rolls, which differ in color and pattern, but have at least one common tone. They are glued, observing any theme.

It is better to cut off pieces of wallpaper about 50 by 50 cm. Unusual wallpaper collages are made from them. In addition, this way you can use unnecessary remnants of wallpaper from previous repairs and save on buying a new roll.

Such an accent wall will look bright, it is better to decorate only one surface in this way, and make the rest plain.

  • Combining with inserts is another method that is quite popular now, which is pasting all the walls in one tone, and then sticking a small piece of bright wallpaper over one wall. It is better if this piece has a bright and unusual pattern. Thus, wallpaper can even replace paintings. These pieces of wallpaper are pasted over with special frames or skirting boards, which allow you to hide the borders and prevent corners from bending.
  • Wallpaper combination can be more complex and interesting. To do this, use the creation of silhouettes from wallpaper. Most often, the walls of the nursery are decorated in this way. Initially, basic wallpapers are pasted, and then figures of animals, birds, or something else are cut out from other, brighter ones. These elements are glued over the first coating. Thus, it turns out a beautiful and unusual pattern on the wallpaper.

Decor

When sticking wallpaper, they often use such a decor method as molding. It is a decorative material in the form of a three-dimensional plank, which is laid on top of the wallpaper. Usually the length of the bar is about 2 m, but its width and design most often differ. Moldings can be flat or voluminous.

Manufacturers also present interesting models that have a beautiful texture and decorative elements. They can be made of plastic, polyurethane and other materials. More popular are elastic moldings, which are easy to install. PVC or gypsum moldings, as well as trendy marble planks, also enjoy polarity. They look very sophisticated and elegant.

With their help, they decorate walls covered with wallpaper in rooms with an interior in a classic style. Moldings are mounted on glue along all walls over wallpaper. In addition, they are often framed by windows and doorways to visually expand them. For this, classic straight slats are most often used.

Also, for finishing and decorating wallpaper, a ceiling or floor plinth is used. Such products are strips having a semicircular cross section. They are most often used to hide the joint between a wall and a ceiling or between a wall and a floor.

Today, finishing with baguettes is popular. Such planks have an interesting and beautiful texture, they can be decorated with decorative elements in the form of flowers and even whole volumetric images.

It is now fashionable to paste over the walls with baguettes, especially in this way they often decorate the edge of the doors over the wallpaper at the entrance or the edge of the arches.

Decorations for wallpapers and walls now have the appearance of whole compositions. So, the slats can be whole finished arches, columns and stucco elements. They look very nice and elegant.

Important nuances

You can glue wallpaper at any time of the year, but there are some nuances:

  • Do not stick wallpaper in an unheated room. So, if in winter when gluing the batteries in the living quarters will work hard, then in this place the glue can quickly dry out, and the wallpaper will move away.

To avoid this, you need to take several actions:

  1. During operation, soak a cloth in cold water and cover the batteries with it.
  2. As it dries, the rag will need to be wetted again and laid on the battery in such a way that the wallpaper can be glued. In addition, where the wallpaper is in contact with the battery, it will be necessary to periodically spray with water, so the wallpaper does not dry or deform.

  • The most important requirement is compliance with the humidity in the room. The air humidity index should be no more than 60%. If this requirement is not met, then the moisture adhesive will become less effective, and therefore the canvases may peel off before they dry. In addition, bubbles may appear under them. Ventilation or air flow into the room should not be allowed. If the humidity in the room is constantly changing, the wallpaper will dry out and stick unevenly.
  • It is important to close the room after gluing and ensure a stable level of humidity and temperature. If you are gluing wallpaper in a living room, then the temperature for different types of glue should be different. But the optimal indicator is from plus 10 to plus 25 °. Higher or lower temperatures will adversely affect the quality of the adhesive, and the adhesive will also become ineffective. The required temperature level can be achieved by placing the heater in the middle of the room and controlling its mode of operation.

  • Maintaining the temperature regime in the room where you have just pasted the wallpaper is important not only on the day you are pasting, but also for 10 days after that. If you provide stable humidity and temperature during gluing and some time after that, then the coating will be as durable as possible.
  • During drying, it is better to curtain the windows in case direct sunlight enters through them.

They can only dry the glue in certain places by their directed action, and thus the fabric can even partially wrinkle.

If you take into account these nuances, then gluing will not create unnecessary problems.

beautiful ideas

  • The original wall decoration in the room with wallpaper is a very popular method in 2017. Now, when pasting, many people choose colors, playing on the contrast of dark and light shades. In this case, it is customary to paste over the wall, which is located opposite the window, with dark wallpaper. This option involves the simultaneous darkening of the room and a slight lightening of the dark wall. But if, on the contrary, you want to lighten the room, then it is better to stick lighter wallpapers opposite the window.
  • Now it is also fashionable to highlight the accent wall, decorating it with wallpaper with a pattern. So, for example, pink trim can be diluted with a bright purple accent. This combination is perfect for a child's room or even a bedroom.

  • Even more fashionable and modern are 3D wallpapers. They can be a covering with a pattern in three-dimensional space, that is, the so-called panoramic wallpaper. They occupy three walls and can have a solid pattern. You can find examples of coverings in the form of whole mythological plots or beautiful landscapes. In this case, one wall is pasted over with a neutral coating.
  • When sticking, you can give preference to LED wallpaper. They have a beautiful colored backlight, the brightness and color of which you can change using the remote control. They are perfect for a nursery and will look very stylish and versatile.

  • In some modern interiors, it is customary to use wallpapers that mimic other surfaces. So, for interiors in the loft style, materials with a pattern for brickwork, paving stones or even decorative stone are used.
  • Provence or country style is characterized by the use of wallpapers that imitate stone or wood. For more classic interiors, plank or leather wallpaper is used. Very popular is the use of plant motifs as a print on the wallpaper. This wallpaper can highlight one wall in the bedroom.

  • Large flowers are now very popular. Under them, you can pick up a blanket or decorative pillows and lay them out on the bed.

Such an ensemble will look harmonious and elegant.

  • Sometimes they try to match the wallpaper to the curtains, but at the same time, the curtains are chosen only to match the color of one accent wall in order to emphasize the pattern or pattern and complete this combination.

  • No less popular this year are combined wallpapers with oriental and African themes. At the same time, pasting with coatings with ethnic motifs, exotic prints and even hieroglyphs is used. They most often decorate one or two accent walls or use horizontal as well as vertical combinations.