How to build a warm floor at home. Underfloor heating in a private house, cottage. Which type of heating is better: water, electric or infrared? Balancing the contours of the warm floor. Commissioning

Living in a gassed city, more and more of our fellow citizens are beginning to think about changing their place of residence to a more environmentally friendly one. For quite a long time, the owners of a country house can enjoy the silence and clean air.

However, such a life provides a slightly different level of comfort than when living in a city apartment. The most urgent problems of a separate residential building include insufficient floor temperature.

Today there are solutions to eliminate this disadvantage. We are talking about a water-heated floor system that any homeowner can do with his own hands. You can achieve the desired result, subject to the availability of the necessary skills and experience.

Types of underfloor heating

Today, the owner of a country house has two ways to solve the problem of heating a room: a water heating device and the use of electricity.

Work on electricity today infrared film structures. But, given its high cost, such an option cannot be used to solve the problem of heating a house from the standpoint of expediency.

For this reason, most owners of country houses are increasingly opting for water heating systems.

However, against the background of a water floor, electrical systems have an important advantage, which is in the absence of difficulties when installing. Laying electrical cables is within the power of any person. But not everyone is able to cope with the installation of pipes and connecting them to the heating boiler the first time.

At the same time, it must be remembered that when using electric heating systems, it is noted negative effect from electromagnetic waves on the health of people living in a private building.

The fundamental device of a water-heated floor in a private house

The action of the water floor system is based on the movement of heated water, which contained in pipes laid under the floor covering. The heat emitted by it spreads to the floor covering, and it already begins to heat the air in the room.

Installation of the pipeline requires compliance with a certain step. The choice of this parameter is carried out on the basis of thermal engineering calculations, during which it is necessary to take into account a number of factors:

  • wall material thickness;
  • the power of the boiler used for heating;
  • the material from which the pipes are made;
  • type of floor base;
  • area of ​​the room to be heated;
  • ceiling height;
  • climate features of a particular area.

Usually, when installing a warm water floor in a private house, the owners opt for pipes made of plastic or metal.

The reason for this decision is the affordable price. Also, there are no difficulties with installation, while they have a long service life, which can reach 50 years.

After laying the pipes connected to the heating boiler. Along with ordinary water, other types of non-freezing liquids can also distribute heat through pipes.

Preparatory work

Even before the laying of a water-heated floor in a private house, attention should be paid to the base, which should be durable and not have bumps.

To bring it to the required form, preparatory measures are carried out, which consist in waterproofing, laying insulation and creating a cement-sand screed.

Also, make sure that the room has windows and doors installed, walls are plastered, and the places where the heating, sewer and water pipelines will be connected are determined.

Floor slab preparation

Quite often, a warm floor in a country house has to be laid on a reinforced concrete floor slab. In such situations, the first step is to place vapor barrier layer.

When installing waterproofing, you can use special compounds that have a bitumen base or paste over the base using materials such as ruberoid, fiberglass, fiberglass. To fix them, it is necessary to use compositions on a similar basis.

As for the vapor barrier, it will do an excellent job with this role. polyethylene film with a minimum thickness of 0.2 mm. The device of hydro - and vapor barrier is a mandatory requirement, the implementation of which allows you to protect the insulation layer from moisture.

The risk of the latter increases against the background of the formation of condensate when a warm floor slab is in contact with cold ground.

When installing film vapor barrier or waterproofing based on gluing materials, material is used in the form of strips, which should be placed with an overlap of 10–15 cm. When working with a film, it is necessary secure with tape.

If you have to deal with gluing waterproofing sheets, then bituminous compounds are used for fixing. Regardless of the type of insulation used, it must be placed on a vertical surface above the insulation layer and fixed to the walls.

Soil preparation

Situations are common when the process of building private houses takes place without the use of floor slabs. A similar option is chosen in cases where the project does not provide for a basement.

Preparatory measures are reduced to the creation of the primary layer based on sand and gravel. Moreover, they are laid out in the form of separate layers on top of each other, maintaining a height of no more than 10 cm. A mandatory procedure that each layer must undergo is moistening and tamping.

Next, proceed to pouring concrete mixture the area of ​​​​the room selected for laying a water-heated floor. It would be useful to place a reinforcing mesh, which will increase the reliability of the structure. It is necessary to ensure the horizontalness of the surface, using the building level for verification.

When pouring concrete, focus on lighthouse rails. Their benefit lies not only in simplifying the observance of horizontality, but also in their role as expansion joints. Following building codes and regulations, it is necessary to ensure that horizontal differences do not exceed 1 centimeter.

Floor insulation

When installing a warm water floor in a country house with your own hands, thermal insulation plays an important role. Its main task is to limit the access of heat emanating from pipes with hot water to the lower part of the underground space, which can be soil or a basement.

Efficient operation of the system will be achieved only if the heat is directed only upwards into the living space.

Particular attention should be paid the right choice of material for thermal insulation and its thickness. This will have a significant impact on how much you can reduce heating costs.

Rules for creating thermal insulation

When choosing the thickness of the insulating layer, the following parameters are taken into account:

  1. Characteristics of the wall material.
  2. Climatic conditions.
  3. Groundwater level in the absence of floor slabs.
  4. The volume of the room where it is planned to install a warm floor.

If you follow the standards, then the insulating layer on which the screed will be built in the future, created above the soil base or cold basement, should have a thickness of 50 mm or more. In the case of laying on floor slabs, this parameter can be reduced.

In most cases, the role of a heat insulator performs styrofoam, having a foil-based coating on one side. Working with this material is fraught with some inconvenience, since you have to use improvised means, say, clamps, to fix the pipes.

However, you can get rid of such difficulties if you buy more modern polystyrene foam boards, which provide faster installation and a higher level of installation quality.

Due to the special design, these plates provide a strong connection, which is largely facilitated by the use of locking devices. Therefore, if such structures are used, then the problem of creating a solid, solid and even base is solved quite simply.

The material used has high density characteristics and a vapor barrier layer, represented by a film based on rigid polystyrene. In addition to this, in the design of plates special channels are provided designed to accommodate heating pipes.

The installation technology of such plates in a country house does not require the use of a tape measure or other measuring instruments. The presence of linear markings at the edges eliminates such a need.

Due to this, it becomes possible to carry out installation work in less time. This advantage is not the only one inherent in these plates, however, already taking this into account, it can be understood that such a choice will not be erroneous.

Care should be taken to ensure that the Styrofoam boards are placed over the entire floor area. With this installation option, you can guarantee high level of strength concrete screed and the reliability of the entire heating system.

Features of a warm floor

Despite the fact that you have certain knowledge regarding the installation of pipes in an apartment, it is best that this work be performed by qualified specialists. Only in this case can guarantee efficient operation underfloor heating systems.

During the installation of such heating systems, a number of rules must be observed:

  • The frequency of pipe placement directly affects the level of floor heating, which determines the temperature regime that will be maintained in the premises.
  • When laying pipes near external walls, it is necessary to strive to place them as densely as possible than in the middle of the room. This must be done, remembering that a certain amount of heat will be spent on heating them.
  • When laying pipes in loops, they must be placed in increments of 10–25 cm.
  • It is unacceptable to lay the elements of the heating system according to the scheme, in which the joints of the floor slabs will be blocked. If it is not possible to place them on different slabs, then first of all it is necessary to lay a steel casing at the intersection of the slabs, in which the pipes should be placed.
  • Stairs, vestibules of entrance doors and other rooms that are not very spacious, it is undesirable to heat with a warm floor.

Among all heating options available today clandestine systems are the most preferred, surpassing radiator and air counterparts in their characteristics. But it must be remembered that not all owners are able to properly install a water-heated floor with their own hands.

At the same time, many can cope with the preparation of the foundation. You should not neglect the performance of such work, as this will help save a lot of money on the installation of an underfloor heating system in a country house.

Sometimes it is the only solution to ensure a comfortable and cozy stay in a private house, especially in the northern regions. In the autumn-spring and winter periods, the base under your feet can cool down quite quickly, and you have to walk in warm socks, otherwise your feet get very cold. It can also be considered a plus in some way additional heating of the building itself from the inside. In objects of individual residential construction, water-heated floors are often made. Wiring diagrams in a private house can be very different, but the essence is the same - such a heating system has been and remains the most frequently equipped in the house. Let's see what are the features of water floors, how you can make them yourself.

Warm floors are not new for a long time. For several decades, they have been used to create comfort and coziness in the house and are especially popular in private homes where there are no neighbors from below, but only a basement or foundation. And, of course, in the cold seasons of the year, the floor under your feet will be cool, if not icy (much depends on how well the floors themselves were insulated).

A water-based warm floor is often recommended for use for underfloor heating in any private house, although there are also electric and. The latter are often installed in apartments, since they do not carry the risk of flooding the premises, and are also easier to install - in particular, they do not need to build a cement screed. But water floors are, perhaps, an ideal option for a private house, especially if it has a heating boiler.

On a note! The water heating system cannot be regarded as the only heating system in the house. It can only act as an additional one together with heating radiators and other heaters. But to make life in the house comfortable is just her task.

It is easy to understand that, unlike the electrical system, the role of the heater in the water heater is performed by water that enters the pipes laid and filled with screed. The coolant is supplied through a special collector, which is connected to the heating system (central, heating boiler, etc.). Heat comes from the heated water circulating through the pipes to the concrete screed, heats it up, and it, in turn, gives off heat to the room and warms up the flooring. Therefore, it will be pleasant to walk on such a floor.

Attention! Water systems are used, as a rule, in private dwellings. In an apartment, it is rarely possible to connect the system to central heating, and it is also possible to flood the neighbors living below in the event of a system breakdown.

Advantages

A water-based heating system has many advantages. These include:

  • achieving the desired level of comfort, since the floors will always be warm, and the air in the room will be warmed up evenly;

  • security but only in a private house. Such floors will not shock, and the worst thing that can happen is a leak. But in a private house, it is not as critical as in an apartment building. Moreover, even if a leak occurs, the maximum property of the owner will suffer, but not he himself, since there is simply no risk of getting burned with hot water;
  • savings- is also one of the advantages. Water floors will save a lot of natural and financial resources, since the water will be used as the same heat carrier. You can also warm up the room faster using water floors if the ceiling height is very high;
  • compatible with all floor coverings- also a plus. Indeed, only in rare cases it is impossible to lay any certain coatings on top of the heating system. And then, if everything is done correctly, then any coatings can be laid on top of the water system;

  • the cost of the water system is low which will save some money during installation.

But such a system also has disadvantages. So, for example, during installation you can not do without, and this is quite hard work that requires certain skills. Plus, the screed will have to be dried before operation, and this is plus 28 days to the duration of the repair. And during this period, nothing can be done in the repaired premises. Another drawback is the difficulty of repairing the system itself if necessary. So it is important to do everything with high quality initially, in order to avoid trouble later for a long time.

Types of water floors and device features

The main element of the system of such floor heating is the pipes through which the coolant-water circulates. They can be both metal and made of polymeric materials. The former are distinguished by a high price and the complexity of the connections, while the latter are much easier to lay, and they are cheaper. In addition to pipes, other elements of this system will be needed. This is a base in the form of a concrete slab or polystyrene, a waterproofing layer, a thermal insulation layer, a concrete screed. On top of this cake, the finishing coating is laid directly. In general, the thickness of the entire structure will be about 7-15 cm.

Depending on how the arrangement of underfloor heating is carried out, there are several basic types of construction.

Table. Types of water floors.

TypeDescription
heavy This is the most common option, characterized by high reliability. Here it is important to carefully prepare the rough surface (rough floor or floors), then lay the heat and waterproofing layers, and then the reinforcing mesh layer, to which the heating circuit itself from the pipes will be attached with clamps. After that, it remains to fill everything with a screed, dry it, and the warm floor is ready for use. Heavy water floors are also called concrete or wet floors. The latter is due to the fact that it is required to carry out work on pouring the screed. It is important to understand that the screed layer above the pipes themselves should not be less than 3 cm.
Lungs In this case, a special polystyrene foam plate is used as the basis for the pipes. It is sold ready-made. During installation, it must be laid on the subfloor and laid along it in accordance with the scheme of the underfloor heating pipe. They will not need additional fixation, since there are special protrusions on the plate itself that allow you to securely fix the pipes. Then, special heat-distributing plates are placed on top, on top of which the finishing coating is mounted. This is a good option for arranging a water floor in conditions where it is impossible to install it according to the standard scheme due to the heavy weight of the standard screed.

There is also another option for arranging a floor heating system - along wooden slats. That is, a tree will be used as the basis for such a floor, to which the pipes are attached, and from above they are covered with gypsum fiber and a finish coating. This option is used extremely rarely and it is not reliable.

Wiring diagrams

It has already been mentioned above that laying schemes for underfloor heating can be different. Depending on the scheme and compliance with the installation rules, the distribution of thermal energy in the room will also occur. There are three main pipe layout schemes, but they are all united by the fact that the installation of pipes is mandatory from the walls towards the central part.

Table. Schemes of installation of a water floor.

Circuit typeCharacteristic

In this case, the pipes are laid in a spiral from the wall to the center, and then return to the starting point. Moreover, the design gradually narrows towards the center of the room. When calculating the circuit and laying it, you must not forget to leave free space between the pipes so that you can “lead” them back to the power source. It is noted that such a scheme will achieve the most uniform heating of the floors, and thanks to it the hydraulic resistance can be reduced. The number of pipes is also used less than in other cases. The main disadvantage is the difficult installation.

In this case, the pipes are laid along the walls with loops in one direction, and then in the opposite direction. When looking at such a scheme, one can note the waviness of the final figure. It is easy to lay pipes in this way, but due to the frequent step of laying pipes, it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve uniform floor heating without temperature jumps.

In this case, both pipe laying schemes are combined. The option is used if the walls in the room are cold enough. The pipes are laid in such a way that in some places they lie in the form of loops, and in other places they lie at right angles.

Mounting Features

Before we talk directly about the process of installing a water floor, it is worth talking about some of the features of this process. So, it is important to consider that in many respects the thermal load of any room will directly depend on what materials the walls are made of, how everything is insulated, how large the window openings are, and also on a number of other factors. We'll have to try to calculate the heat transfer. If it is more than 100 W / m 2, then water floors cannot be used as the main heating system, but only as floor heating directly.

The length of the pipes also cannot be any. It will depend on the size of the room and the installation scheme. You may have to lay two or even more circuits in one large room. This applies to rooms larger than 30 m2 in the first place. And each circuit will heat up independently of the other, although all circuits can be connected to the same manifold. However, the diameter of the pipes, the laying pitch between them and the length must be the same if the lines are connected to the same system. And the length and pitch of the contour, in turn, depend on the diameter of the pipes. The larger it is, the longer the outline can be.

Advice! If the room has built-in furniture, then the floor area under it does not need to be taken into account in the calculations. There will still be no sense from the warm floor, and pipes can not be laid there.

From each wall you need to make a small indent (about 10-15 cm from the outer and up to 30 cm for the inner walls). The pitch between the pipes can vary within 20-30 cm if they are used as an additional option for space heating.

A water floor is an ideal heating option for large rooms with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bmore than 20 m 2. But in a small room it is better to choose some other option, since laying water lines will be very inconvenient. It is also worth stopping at the heavy version of the warm floor if possible, that is, mount it using a concrete screed. This is the most reliable, albeit the longest option, but it is ideal for a private home. By the way, the screed itself protects the circuit pipes very well from the risk of damage and by itself is able to retain heat for a long time, which means it will help save money.

Warming the floor in a private house is not an easy task. If in multi-storey buildings the floors are insulated at the expense of the lower floor, then in a private house the situation is exactly the opposite. Cold air comes from the ground, which makes the task of owners of private houses much more difficult. Therefore, the owners of private houses pay special attention to the issue of floor insulation in their homes.

Of course, modern technology has solved this problem, and not in one way. Exist three types of floor insulation in private homes:

  • insulated screed;
  • insulated wooden flooring;
  • various underfloor heating systems.

The easiest and cheapest way to make a floor is to fill its surface with a screed. A mixture of sand and cement is much cheaper than other building materials, but this type of floor has the biggest drawback - it radiates cold. In winter, it is absolutely impossible to walk on a concrete screed without slippers. But today modern technology has solved this problem. A heater is laid under the screed layer, which, although a little, solves this problem. Expanded clay, granulated slag and polystyrene are suitable as insulating materials. Modern masters mainly prefer foam.

The structure of our concrete screed in the section will resemble a cake that has several layers. First, foam is laid on the floor surface for insulation, and then the screed is poured. The process of pouring concrete screed takes place in about five steps:

  • The first stage is the waterproofing of the surface. It is best to lay out special waterproofing materials on the ground to prevent the appearance of mold and various fungi. For this task, such a material as a dense plastic film, which is laid out directly on the surface of the soil, is suitable. But it is best to use a special waterproof barrier, which is made of bituminous mastic;
  • The second stage is gluing along the entire perimeter along the walls at a height of up to 15 cm of porous foamed vinyl material. This material ensures the plasticity of the foam at temperature extremes and protects it from cracking;
  • The third stage is the laying of the foam itself. Styrofoams should be laid tightly to each other. If the concrete solution gets into the cracks formed, then cold can penetrate from there, which makes our work completely useless. Therefore, the cracks that appear are filled with mounting foam;
  • The fourth stage is the reinforcement of the screed. A concrete screed without reinforcement on foam plastic will not last even one year. A few months are enough for the concrete screed to begin to crack and it will not take even one year for it to simply crumble into pieces. Therefore, reinforcement, one might say, is a prerequisite;
  • The fifth stage is the screed itself. After the reinforcement stage, the concrete mortar itself is poured. The thickness of the concrete screed must exceed 50 mm. The concrete solution must be stronger than it should be, that is, the usual ratio of 1:4 is not suitable, it is better to use a ratio of 1:3. Also, in order to avoid cracking of the screed, plasticizers are added to the concrete solution.

The process of warming a concrete screed goes something like this. Although concrete screed is the cheapest and most affordable type of floor, it is not enough to make your home cozy and comfortable. For this, they also resort to the help of a variety of heating systems.

Concrete floor heating system in a private house

There are many options for underfloor heating in a private house. Basically, there are three types of heating:

  • electric;
  • infrared;
  • water.

Best for heating concrete screed water heated floor. This system is quite easy to use, so you can do it yourself. But the calculation and design of such a system is best left to professionals. If you think over such a system to the smallest detail and do not save on building materials, then it can serve for more than a dozen years.

The advantages of this system are more than enough, the first of which is the absolute saving of electricity, due to the connection of the system to the central heating. Not only do you have underfloor heating that you can walk on barefoot, but you also have a safe-to-use underfloor heating system. Secondly, the installation and installation of a water-heated floor does not require much labor and expense, so it is also possible to install such a system on your own.

How does the underfloor heating system work?

The main elements of a water-heated floor are polymer pipes in which hot water circulates. The system is connected to central heating or to individual boiler rooms, which are heated by liquid or solid fuels.

The temperature in the pipes is controlled by a thermostat that is connected to the pipes. Temperature controllers are installed on the walls, and it is enough to set the desired temperature in them for the system to work. Automatic thermostats are the most convenient to use. Reaching the set temperature, the system is automatically cooled down.

Installation of a water heated floor takes place in three stages.

Firstly, the soil itself is being prepared in which the pipes will be folded. The entire perimeter is cleared of construction debris, all drops and slopes are trimmed.

Secondly , substrates are placed under the pipes. This will help direct the heat up and distribute it evenly throughout the room. Thermal insulation boards, which also play the role of pipe clamps, are excellent for this task.

Thirdly, the concrete screed itself is poured. The thickness of the poured screed must be at least 3 cm.

One of the disadvantages of a water heated floor is that it is categorically incompatible with wood. This system is effective only if your room is filled with concrete screed.

Wooden floor heating system in a private house

Heating a wooden floor does not require much effort, since wood is a warm material that does not need additional heating. The only thing that can be done is enhance its effectiveness through additional heating systems. But by laying insulation, we can deprive our floor of normal ventilation, which is why the wooden material is deformed. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the waterproofing system and the more carefully everything is thought out, the better.

To insulate a wooden floor, it is enough to lay mineral heaters under the flooring. Styrofoam is not recommended, as it does not allow air to pass through. And as a result, the natural ventilation of the room is disturbed. All that can be done in this case is leave space between wood flooring and insulation. A space of 50 mm will be enough so that natural ventilation is not disturbed.

Conclusion

Finally, we can say that making warm floors in a private house is not such a difficult task. With a responsible approach to business and careful design of the system, all the work can be done independently. But in modern houses the floor heating system has already been calculated and its happy owners do not think about such a problem.

A warm floor for a private house, unlike a radiator system, is more economical and practical. Floor heating creates excellent air convection in the house. There are many subtleties that should be considered in the manufacture of underfloor heating in a private house. It's not just about laying pipes in concrete or laying electrical mats. It is important to make correct calculations here, especially if you plan to use them as the main source of heat. This article will discuss issues related to how to make a warm floor in a private house.

Underfloor heating in a private house - is it needed?

An underfloor heating system is expensive, but worth it. How is value formed? Many factors influence pricing. For example, what layer of thermal insulation needs to be laid, what will be the thickness of the heating cake, how the floor will be adjusted and much more. Is it worth spending time, money and effort to create such a complex heating system? As practice shows, warm floors in a private house are a reliable design that works properly and provides a stable temperature.

Note! In order to save money, some decide to make a mixed heating system. In this case, the main source of heat will be the radiator system, and the warm floor as an additional element. For example, warm floors equip rooms where ceramic tiles or porcelain tiles are laid.

Underfloor heating in a private house has a number of positive aspects that should not be overlooked. If you still doubt the correctness of your decision, then the following factors will dispel all doubts:

  • Due to the even distribution of thermal energy, increased thermal comfort is created. So, the floors are pleasant to the touch, so you will never feel cold on your feet.
  • Significant reduction in energy consumption for home heating.
  • Due to the low temperature of the heat carrier, the maximum efficiency of the heat pump and condensing boiler is ensured.
  • Does not spoil the appearance of the room, as the underfloor heating system is hidden from the eyes.
  • There are no temperature fluctuations in the room.
  • Due to the large thermal inertia, there are no sudden temperature jumps in the room.

For the sake of objectivity, some disadvantages of arranging a warm floor should also be highlighted:

  • If improper installation is carried out, then in the event of a malfunction, a lot of effort and means will be required to eliminate them.
  • Not every finishing material can be combined with underfloor heating. If heated floors are cluttered with furniture, heat output will decrease.
  • It is important to equip the system with a circulation pump and a thermostat. If the system is allowed to overheat, this can lead to bad consequences.
  • If a concrete warm floor is being installed, then there is an additional load on the ceiling of the house.
  • Unlike a radiator system, a warm floor has a high cost.

Given all this, we have to admit that with all the minuses, underfloor heating in a private house is a great idea. Now we will consider some of the nuances that should be considered when organizing underfloor heating.

Calculation of heat transfer and heat loss

The values ​​​​of heat output and heat loss will make it possible to understand whether underfloor heating can be used as the main heating in a private house. So, if you determine that there are large heat losses in the house, then the warm floor cannot be the main one, but only additional heating.

For example, let's take a house with an area of ​​100 m 2, in which heat loss will be 75 W / m 2. In this case, the area of ​​the heated floor is 70%, that is, 70 m 2. The average underfloor heating power is 90 W/m 2 . Multiplying two indicators of 90 W / m 2 by 70 m 2, we get an indicator for the heat transfer of the floor with a power of 6300 W. To determine heat loss, the entire floor area, in our case 100 m 2, is multiplied by 75 W / m 2. As a result, we get 7500 watts. With this calculation, it can be seen that the heat loss is greater than the heat transfer of the floor. Therefore, underfloor heating cannot be basic in any way. With this example, you can easily define the task for the floor heating to be created.

Permissible power of underfloor heating

If your house has large heat losses, then the heating power of 80 W / m 2 may not be enough, especially if the house has large windows. But problems can arise even in a small room, for example, in a bathroom or toilet. So, by installing a shower, toilet, washing machine and other items, the heated area is significantly reduced. As a result, a power of 80 W / m 2 will clearly not be enough. This also applies to bedrooms. A large floor area will be covered by cabinets, bedding, and the like. The efficiency of underfloor heating is automatically reduced.

Note! If the warm floor will produce a power of 800 W per 10 m 2, then it is worth considering that 50 × 50 × 15 radiators can produce the same power. This is due to the fact that the coolant for the radiator has a temperature of up to 80 ° C.

Considering these factors, we come to the conclusion that it is necessary to accurately calculate the power of the heating circuits to create underfloor heating as the main heating. And in some cases, you will need to install additional heating radiators or a heated towel rail (for the bathroom).

A private house can be equipped with two types of warm floors:

  1. Water.
  2. Electric.

As for country houses, electric heating is used extremely rarely. There are good reasons for this, for example, high power consumption. For the most part, warm electric floors are installed in apartments as an additional source of heat. In this case, they have much more advantages, since their installation does not take much time and effort, and high power is not required to heat the apartment.

Water floors are much more difficult to install, but for a private house they are more effective. In this case, the house should be insulated, pour the screed and connect the collector. The water heating system is designed for continuous use. With proper installation, as well as subsequent maintenance, it can last up to 30 years. Among other things, water heating has a low level of inertia. If the floor warms up enough, then it will retain heat well. As a result, constant replenishment with hot coolant is not necessary.

Note! It is recommended to install a warm water floor on an area of ​​\u200b\u200bno more than 15 m 2. In this case, it is necessary to make a project on which the arrangement of furniture and other items will be indicated.

With the proper organization of a warm water floor, you can completely abandon radiators, which often interfere with the implementation of design ideas. For example, you can install the so-called "French windows" (from floor to ceiling). Plus, you can save on heating costs. If you are not currently using one of the rooms, then one circuit can be turned off on the collector. Accordingly, this will be reflected in the total coolant flow rates.

As for the installation of a warm floor in a private house, there are three methods for laying them:

  1. On the wooden floor.
  2. On a concrete screed.
  3. On the ground.

In most cases, the technology of laying on a concrete screed is used. Wooden, obsolete, the floor is torn off and a screed is poured. At the same time, a rough screed is poured. The contours of the pipes are laid on top, and then the finishing screed is poured and the floor covering is laid.

Note! Laying heating pipes in a screed will require more power from the heating system, because you will have to warm up the heating “pie” well and plus the flooring. These nuances are taken into account when creating a heating project.

There is another common technology for the manufacture of underfloor heating - on the ground. For its implementation, it is necessary to remove the top layer of soil. Further, a pillow is made of sand, 10 cm thick and crushed stone up to 10 cm of fine fraction. It is also necessary to lay a waterproofing layer. For this, a roofing material or a special membrane is used. On top of this, a rough screed is poured, a heater with a heat-reflecting surface and pipes are placed.

Note! If pipes lie at the base of your house, then the installation of a warm water floor is greatly simplified. You will need to level the floor surface, level cracks and make heating circuits.

All work can be done by hand. To do this, carefully study the provided instructions:

  • As mentioned above, roofing material can be used for the waterproofing layer. Roll out roofing material or other insulating materials on the surface of the base. Each joint is important to glue well. Therefore, sheets of roofing material are laid with an overlap of 10 cm. Bonding can be carried out using special adhesive tape, resin, high temperature, and the like.
  • To prevent cold from entering the room from below, the next layer is made - thermal insulation. For this purpose, you can use high density foam. As a result, the heat from the pipes will not go down, and the cold from the ground will not rise up. In most cases, a 5 cm layer of thermal insulation is sufficient.
  • At the next stage, a vapor barrier is made. This is important because, otherwise, condensation will appear on top of the insulation. For the manufacture of vapor barrier, a durable polyethylene film is used. The flooring, as well as the roofing material, is overlapped by 10 cm, after which the film is glued together with adhesive tape.

Note! The thermal insulation layer is influenced by several factors, for example, the coefficient of thermal insulation, the power of the heating system, the location of the house, and so on.

When all these preparatory work is done, it's time to start making a rough screed. To do this, lay the reinforcing mesh. A grid with cells of 150 × 150 mm is usually used. It is necessary to put a reflective film under the grid, which will direct the flows of thermal energy upwards. The contours of the heating pipes can be laid out on the grid. It should be noted that when arranging a water-heated floor in a private house, it is important to allocate space for installing a collector. It will control the temperature level in the room.

If necessary, you can create 2, 3, or even 5 heating circuits. In the collector, each circuit can be signed, for the convenience of managing underfloor heating. Pipes are fastened directly to the metal mesh, with special clamps. In conclusion, the finishing screed is poured. It is necessary to add a plasticizer to it, which will prevent cracking of the screed when it is heated. Also, along the entire perimeter of the room, a damper tape is laid against the wall, which will serve to compensate for thermal expansion.

Note! Filling the screed can only be done when the system is filled with water. Water should be in the pipes until the screed is completely dry. You cannot turn on the heating during this process.

At the end, you will have to lay the finishing floor covering, for example, tiles, parquet boards, laminate and the like.

Nuances that can not be forgotten

When arranging a warm water floor in a private house, it is important to pay special attention to the little things. Failure to follow simple rules can nullify all your efforts. Here are some tips and tricks to help you get the job done right:

  • The use of a damper tape is a mandatory requirement. Due to this, the heating cake will be able to expand when the temperature changes. This expansion will be fully compensated by a damper tape, which is glued to the wall over the entire floor area.
  • An important condition is the arrangement of the comb or collector. This device is unacceptable to save. This is the place to control your underfloor heating. A pipeline with hot coolant from the boiler is supplied to it. Also, the coolant is distributed from it to the heating circuits. Thanks to the mixing unit, a clear balance of temperature conditions is carried out. As a result, the created system works with high efficiency.
  • The thickness of the finishing screed on top of the pipes should not exceed 6 cm. In order for the solution to be elastic, a plasticizer is added to it, which will increase the resistance to temperature extremes.
  • To prevent the screed from drying out, in the process of drying it can be covered with a plastic film on top. If this is not possible, moisten the screed regularly.

So, we have considered with you one of the possible technologies for arranging a warm floor. For example, if you want to save a wooden floor, then heating pipes can also be laid on top of it. To do this, there is a technology that is not used so often. We hope that the article provided will help you do all the work with your own hands so that during the cold period of time the room has a comfortable temperature. In addition to this, we offer you a video on this topic, as well as diagrams from which you can learn about other aspects of designing underfloor heating in a private house. If you have personal experience in the manufacture of such a system, then be sure to write reviews at the end of the article.

Video

From the provided video material, you can learn more about the intricacies of creating a warm floor in a private house:

Scheme

The following is a series of schemes from which you can learn some of the intricacies of making a warm water floor in a private house:

To make a water heated floor with your own hands in a private house is within the power of any home master. It will take patience, careful calculations, the purchase of materials and the missing tool. But in the end you will get a system that allows you to adjust the level of heating throughout the floor. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of the water circuit, the rules for selecting material, installation, installation and connection schemes.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

Throwing aside the complexity of installation, the masters agree that underfloor heating in a private house is one of the most efficient heating systems. Compared to a radiator system, a water floor in a wooden house can provide significant savings in heating costs due to uniform heating over the entire area. Additional pluses:

  1. Low temperature operation. This means that the air in the room will not dry out, it will not be stuffy.
  2. There is no overheating of the air mass.
  3. Water floor heating meets the requirements of environmental safety, sanitary and hygienic standards.
  4. There is no negative impact on humans, since most of the energy is transferred by thermal radiation.
  5. The device of water heated floors in a private house with ceilings from 3 m high saves up to 30%.
  6. The installation system is hidden - this simplifies the processes of interior decoration.
  7. Security. When installing a warm floor from heating in a private house, the user does not risk getting a short circuit in the electrical circuit, as is the case with electric floors - the entire system consists of pipelines, ordinary water is used as a coolant.

Disadvantages of a water floor:

  1. The laboriousness of work. Representing a system of several layers of material, the design requires careful preparation and adherence to the installation scheme.
  2. Leakage risk. To search for a leaking link, you will have to lift the entire installation.
  3. Involuntary weighting of structural features of the structure. Layer-by-layer laying out of materials increases the mass of floors by 10-15%, therefore, equipping a warm floor with your own hands on the 2nd and higher floors, you need to calculate the allowable load on the floor.

It is extremely important, equipping the heating system on the floor, to perform high-quality insulation of the building. In this case, having made a water-heated floor with your own hands, you will not have to supplement the heating with convectors.

Design

Before drawing up a project, you need to make sure that nothing will interfere with the implementation of ideas. What you need to pay attention to:

  1. Room height. The thickness of the entire underfloor heating system in a private house from scratch is 10-12 cm.
  2. Doorways. When raising the floor level, it is important to maintain the height of the opening. You will have to estimate the price of a custom-made door or the possibility of increasing the doorway in height.
  3. Window location/orientation. If they face the windy side, north / west, the power of the system should be increased.
  4. Assess the bearing capacity of floor beams. The weight of the entire system with a concrete screed significantly increases the load.

It is not necessary to refuse heating, you can consider the option of a flat (dry) water floor. The system consists of pipelines with a carrier, laid out on top of a boardwalk. In this case, it is not necessary to mount a screed, it is enough to install a wooden frame over the subfloor, the height of which will be equal to the thickness of the insulation. Lay or fill in insulation (mineral wool sheets, expanded clay, sawdust), lay boards on top, hide pipes with coolant in the seams between them. From above, the raised floor can be veneered with finishing.

Schema Design

The scheme is developed taking into account the parameters of the room, the technical characteristics of equipment and materials. To make a calculation, indicators and data are determined:

  • floor area;
  • room height;
  • material of walls, ceilings;
  • type of thermal insulation;
  • type of finish flooring.

You also need to consider the desired t ° mode. For the convenience of calculations, we present a table with indicators of the limiting t ° mode for rooms for various purposes:

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Room typet° mode (maximum)
Living spaces and spaces where people spend time standing21-27⁰
Sedentary rooms, offices29⁰
Hallways, corridors, hallways30⁰
Bathrooms (pools)30-33⁰
Premises for active pastime17-19⁰
Places where time of stay is limited37⁰
Edge zones of any premises35⁰

After specifying the parameters, a diagram is drawn up, which contains the following data:

  1. Mounting points and dimensions of heating radiators, if any.
  2. Layout of pipes with dimensions of diameter and length of straight sections.
  3. The distance between the elements, t° parameters of the carrier in each pipe and the lengths of all circuits.
  4. Power data for heating each individual room. The power of the radiator is calculated taking into account the location and length of the pipeline connected to it.

Also in the scheme, you should specify data on setting up automation.

In order for the installation of the water floor to be successful, when drawing up a diagram, heed the advice of professionals: The diameter of the pipe affects the maximum length of the calculation. For pipes of 16 mm - up to 100 m, for pipes of 20 mm - no more than 120 m. The parameters are needed to ensure optimal pressure inside the underfloor heating system. If the scheme for installing a warm water floor provides for several circuits, it is easier to make them the same length with a maximum difference of 15 m. The pipe laying step should not be more than 30 cm in the center and 15 cm at the edges. In regions with severe winters, a step of 10 cm is recommended. The spacing of the location affects the costs of the pipe. The calculation is done as follows: with a step of 10 cm, 10 m of pipe per m² of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will be required, with a step of 15 cm, the consumption will be 6.7 m / m². When laying the circuit in the diagram, it is necessary to bypass the installation areas of plumbing fixtures and heavy furniture. One circuit covers the room no more than 40 m², the maximum length of the side of the circuit is up to 8 m. Thus, in the scheme of arranging floors in a private house, it is important to consider:

  • pipeline laying step limits;
  • limits and contour size;
  • heat-insulating material in the areas of decreasing pitch.

The step always decreases in the area of ​​openings, and this must be taken into account in the layout scheme.

Carrying out calculations

The standard formula for calculating the length of the circuit is: the active heating area (sq. M) is divided by the calculation step (m) plus the distance to the collector and the length of the bends. To get more accurate calculations, it is better to contact specialists, but this requires an investment of money, so we make a water-heated floor in the house in stages with our own hands.

Tip: “Thermostats are mounted to adjust the degree of heating of the coolant. The maximum gradation on the devices is 55 °.

Detailed calculation scheme:

  1. Distance from the walls from 30 cm.
  2. The determination of the number of loops is calculated from the length of the pipe per loop. When dividing the area of ​​​​the room by the step of the calculation, add 10% to the turns. Formula: L \u003d S / N * 1.1. Designation L - pipe length, S - room area, N - laying step. Thus, on an area of ​​40 m², when laying out a pipe with a step of 15 cm, the desired definition is the sum of the lengths of all contours - 266 m.
  3. When calculating the length of the circuit to the collector (one end - to the supply device, the second - to the opposite), multiply the final indicator by 2, and you will get the required pipe length from the connection point to the collector.
  4. Pipeline material: for polyethylene with a diameter of 18 mm, the length is up to 120 m, for metal-plastic - no more than 125 m. Masters do not advise making circuits longer than 90 m in order to ensure optimal hydraulic resistance and load on the coolant.
  5. With a step of 30 cm, pipes of 3.4 m / m² are required; a step of 25 cm - 3 m / m²; at 20 cm - 5 m / m²; at 15 cm - 6.7 m / m²; in 10 cm - 10 m / m².
  6. If the area is from 40 m², the laying scheme is as follows: 3 circuits 100 m long, it is easier to ensure the same heating over the entire area.

Tip: "The length of the circuit is counted from the exit point from the collector, and not in the entrance area to the room where the system is mounted."

And now about how to calculate the possible heat loss. The formula is complex and requires measurements of the heat transfer of all components and structures of the house, the average value of precipitation, t °, air direction and other things. There are average indicators that the owner of the house can focus on:

  1. In well-insulated buildings with installed sealed double-glazed windows, heat losses are 40 W / m².
  2. In non-old houses with an average service life of thermal insulation of walls, windows, doors, the figure is 70-80 W / m².
  3. In buildings of the old type with wooden windows, without insulation, heat losses reach 100 W / m² or more.

Tip: "If the heat loss of the building is more than 100 W / m², the installation of a water-heated floor becomes impractical."

Choice of accessories

To make a system of underfloor heating in your home with your own hands, you will need the following set of materials: Boiler. As a rule, they make a water floor from a gas boiler. It is economically advantageous and technologically easier. The power indicator of the gas boiler should exceed the sum of all the capacities of the floor system by 15-20%. Another option is electric water floors. Convenient for laying, but disadvantageous due to the high cost of electricity. Circulation pump. The device will ensure the normal movement of the carrier through the pipes. The boiler already has a pump, but it can handle the load if the area of ​​the house does not exceed 100 m². Pipes. The choice is this:

  • copper - durable, long service life, but high cost;
  • metal-plastic - durable, bending, inexpensive and weigh little;
  • polypropylene - low price, high limiting heating, but there is a high risk of buying a fake;
  • PEX - cross-linked polyethylene pipe - a reliable option if the fastening is rigid and the pitch is minimal.

The calculated cross-section of pipes for dry water heated floors with your own hands is considered to be a size of up to 20 mm. Consumption rate per 1 m² (step of 200 mm) is approximately 5-6 m.p. Insulation. Here is the choice:

  • foil polyethylene is suitable for minimum floor thickness;
  • expanded polystyrene in ready-made mats with protrusions for laying pipes in increments of 50 * 50 mm;
  • mineral wool - cheap, but impractical due to the ability to absorb moisture from the solution.
Tip: “The layer of thermal insulation above the basement of a private house is always made thicker. It all depends on the required t ° of the carrier: the higher the indicator, the larger the insulation layer.

Heat meter. The device is needed for apartment buildings where a warm water floor is being laid. Collector cabinet. Needed for the installation of control elements and docking of the pipe contours with the heat supply line. Reinforcing mesh. The element helps to strengthen the concrete screed after the pipes are laid, but reinforcement may not be applied. You will also need components for arranging the screed:

  • screed mortar (cement, sand, water);
  • damper tape 10-15 cm wide;
  • fasteners for fixing the pipe.

The number of elements will be prompted by a pre-compiled scheme of warm water floors from a gas boiler. If the planning work is done correctly, there will be no errors. But the scheme itself should be saved so that in case of a leak, you can quickly remember all the points of installation and fastening.

Work performance technology

To make a water floor, the installation technology provides for a phased work algorithm:

  • collector installation;
  • preparation of the floor with the laying of damper tape, insulation;
  • laying out the contour;
  • connection with leak test;
  • crimping;
  • coupler.

After the completion of the preparatory stages, the system starts up, then turns off and you can complete the arrangement of the floors with finishing.

Mounting and installation of manifold cabinet

When installing a water heated floor, it is extremely important not to skip the stages of work. Step-by-step instructions for underfloor heating implies a detailed consideration of the technology, even a novice master will not have any difficulties. Collector cabinet - a device where there is:

  • collector;
  • pump;
  • air valve;
  • drain outlet.

The dimensional parameters of the device depend on the general configuration. When choosing a unit, it is necessary to calculate the installation area - it must be equidistant from all circuits. It is not possible to fulfill the condition, we put the collector next to the longest pipe loop.

Important! When installing the underfloor heating system in the collector installation area, it is necessary to provide a zone for bending the pipeline. Pipes are laid only from below to guarantee the normal movement of the coolant. Installing a shut-off valve between the loop system and the manifold is necessary for preventive maintenance and structural repair.

Substrate preparation and insulation

To make underfloor heating in a private house, you need to carry out preparatory work on the basis of:

  • clean the base from debris;
  • remove height differences, leveling the plane as much as possible;
  • lay the selected thermal insulation material;
  • waterproofing (dense film) is laid on the thermal insulation;
  • damper tape along the walls, which will eliminate the effect of thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

An equal thickness of underfloor heating is necessary for high-quality heating of the entire surface, therefore, the better the plane is leveled, the more evenly the screed layer will lie.

Contour device in different ways

Thinking over how to make a water heated floor, you will have to take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. The layout of the pipes depends on this:

  1. Snail. The outline of underfloor heating from the heating boiler of a private house is laid out along the perimeter of the room, going to the center with the layout through the row. Such a scheme provides a quick return flow of the coolant and increases the uniformity of heating the area. Masters prefer the "snail" in rooms with a complex shape, where it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe and in rooms with an area of ​​​​40 m².
  2. Snake or loops. Such laying of pipes for a warm water floor is carried out from the collector along the outer wall (one), then in waves with a return back. Good layout for small spaces.
  3. Meander or double snake. The combined layout scheme implies a parallel arrangement of contours. This option organizes the movement of the coolant with different t °, compensating for heat transfer.
Important! The laying of pipes for a water-heated floor always starts from the outer or coldest wall of the room.

To facilitate the task of laying out, a beginner should draw markings on the floor. It is not allowed to install the system with unreliable connections or pipe sections - such a design will not withstand a long heating season.

How to make a warm floor:

  1. The installation of the floor begins with the connection to the supply manifold. You can retreat only 7 cm from the wall, but it is worth considering the small layout step at the outer walls. This is required to reduce heat loss.
  2. As soon as the pipe is laid along the entire contour, it must be fixed with a clamp. Dowels will do if you tie pipes to them with wire. Another option is to lay a reinforcing mesh on the floor, tying the contour from the pipe to it; this eliminates the expansion of materials when heat is applied.
Tip: “The ribbed polystyrene substrate, laid out under the contours of the system, will increase the thermal insulation performance and help you mount the warm floor with your own hands evenly, while maintaining the desired step.”

Collector connection

It's simple: the free end of the pipe, which remains after laying out the circuit, is connected to the return manifold. In order not to be mistaken, you should first read the instructions for the unit.

Crimping

This is the name of the process of hydraulic testing, which is necessary to check the quality of the calculation. If we make a warm floor in a private house, then crimping will help to adjust the laying order and other nuances. Pressure testing is the launch of the coolant into the system at the highest possible pressure. The pressure level should exceed the calculated minimum by 1.5 - 2 times (from 0.6 MPa). What to look for when crimping:

  1. Half an hour after launch, a decrease in the allowable pressure is possible by 10%, no more.
  2. The second half hour - the indicator should not decrease by more than 2-15% of the original designation.
  3. The t° of the carrier must remain unchanged.

The total check time is 24 hours. It is better to give up to 2 days for the stage to make sure that the step-by-step installation of a water-heated floor with your own hands is done correctly, the floors warm up evenly and there are no leaks, loose fasteners and other defects.

Screed

The installation instructions for a warm water floor involve the implementation of a screed from a cement-sand mixture that conducts heat well or classic concrete. For the manufacture of concrete, they take grade cement from M300, water, sand and 3-5% plasticizer.

Screed thickness 3-7 mm. You need to fill in the finished solution on the circuits filled with coolant. In this case, the system operates in the mode specified during crimping. The drying time of concrete is up to 28-30 days, the period for the finished mixture must be viewed on the package.

Tip: "If you need to make underfloor heating in a private house with an area of ​​​​40 m², it is necessary to provide expansion joints."

First start

The procedure is carried out only after the screed has dried and gained strength. Now you can turn on the collector and drive the coolant through the heating pipes of the warm water floor. First, the t ° indicator is set to + 25 ° С, then it increases every day by 10 ° С. With a gradual increase in t°, the system gains the required heating parameter in 2 days.

fine finish

Knowing how to make warm floors yourself, it will not be difficult to decorate them. The warm floor is laid under the laminate, carpet, solid wood, under the tile - in a private house the last option is the most convenient. But if the installation scheme remains the same under the tile, then laying under the laminate requires a special approach:

  1. The laminate must be of high quality. The material emits volatile substances when heated, a fake will be inappropriate. It is better to look at the label "Warmwasser" - this is a decor for floors with a water-heated floor.
  2. Heat-insulating and waterproofing materials do not fit under the laminate.
  3. To ensure ventilation, an expansion gap up to 15 mm wide is left around the perimeter of the laminate layout. Then the gap is covered with a floor plinth.
  4. Before laying the dice, you need to spread the laminate on the floor, leaving the water circuit warm. This is necessary for a set t ° - the slats will warm up and it is easier to lay them.

Despite the absence of difficulties, craftsmen rarely make water-heated floors under the laminate. Lamellas are characterized by low thermal conductivity, it is higher for tiles, moreover, any dies are made using chemicals. In this case, the tile is much more practical.

Operating rules

Knowing how to professionally make a water heated floor in a house, it will be useful to follow the rules of use. The requirements are simple and accessible:

  1. Warm floors in a private house, the layout of which is made in compliance with the technology, always gain t ° gradually. By starting the circuit at the maximum level after a long period of inactivity, the owner will receive a reduction in service life.
  2. An increase in the t ° regime should be gradual, no more than 4-5 ° C per day.
  3. The mode index t ° of the incoming coolant is not higher than 45⁰С.
  4. Frequent start-ups and shutdowns of the system are fraught with rapid wear, but not cost savings.
To use heating with pleasure and without damage to health, it is recommended to maintain an optimal humidity regime.

There are no special difficulties in the design. And knowing how to make a warm floor in a private house, the owner will be able to perform installation on the street, for example, on the entrance area, stairs, car parking.