Imitation of birch under oak. Decoration of wood under a valuable species. Walnut birch wood stain

The color and texture of wood depend primarily on its species. However, if necessary, the color can be changed using special dyes. The quality of the imitation depends not only on the dyes, but also on the treated wood.

To imitate valuable wood, various dye solutions are used that easily penetrate into the wood. The most famous of them are walnut stain, stain No. 10. The following compositions can be used to paint various tree species in different colors, as well as to imitate valuable wood species.

To dye pine, spruce, birch and beech wood brown, you need to take 3 g of acid chromium brown dye, 3 g of vinegar essence and 10 g of aluminum alum per 1 liter of water.

To dye birch and beech wood under mahogany, two solutions are prepared: 50 g of copper sulfate per 1 liter of water and 100 g of yellow blood salt per 1 liter of water; Initially, the surface is treated with a solution of copper sulphate, then incubated for 10 minutes and a solution of yellow blood salt is applied.

You can paint birch wood under walnut using 20 g of walnut stain and 2 g of stain No. 10 per 1 liter of water.

For staining under the old oak, you need 16 g of potash, 20 g of dry brown aniline paint. 20 g of dry blue paint is dissolved in 0.5 l of water, the mixture is boiled for 20–30 minutes, after which 1 teaspoon of vinegar is added; the surface is covered with a hot solution with a brush.

If painted under a gray oak, then the treated surface of the oak wood is first coated with black alcohol varnish, and when the varnish dries, silver powder (aluminum powder) is poured onto the surface. Then, with a clean swab, rub the powder into the pores of the oak. The remaining silver powder is removed from the surface with a clean swab after about 1 hour.

The powder remaining in the pores of the tree is lightly glued with varnish, and gray hair appears on the oak. The dried painted surface is rubbed along the fibers with a lump of horsehair or wood shavings, then coated with a colorless alcohol or oil varnish.

The following industrial water-soluble wood dyes can be used to imitate precious woods.

Dye No. 1: reddish brown, used to color beech mahogany.

Dyes No. 5, 6 and 7: light brown, used for coloring beech and ash under light walnut, for coloring walnut, birch and ash.

Dye No. 10: tan, used to color birch and ash walnut.

Dyes No. 11, 12, 13, 14: walnut brown, used for coloring birch, ash and beech with medium and dark walnut tones.

Dye No. 17: light brown, used for coloring birch and beech with a medium-tone walnut effect.

Dye No. 122: orange-brown, used to color birch and ash walnut.

Dye No. 124: red, used to color birch, oak and beech mahogany.

Water-soluble dyes are prepared as follows: the required amount of dye is weighed, dissolved in a small volume of hot water (at least 95 ° C) and thoroughly mixed. The resulting mass is poured into hot water and mixed.

The dye solution is left to stand for 48 hours, then filtered through two layers of gauze and applied to the product with a swab, brush or spray. The dye solution may have a different concentration depending on the desired color tone.

From the book: Korshever N. G. Works on wood and glass

For staining wood "dark oak" you need 50 parts of Kassel brown paint, 5 parts of potash and 100 parts of distilled water. This composition is boiled for an hour, the broth is filtered and boiled again until a thick syrup is obtained, then poured into a flat metal box, allowed to harden and ground into powder. One part of the powder is diluted in 20 parts of water and boiled for several minutes. This solution covers the wood.

To imitate "under the walnut" the following composition is needed (in parts by weight): 3 parts of Glauber's salt, 3 parts of potassium permanganate and 100 parts of hot (60-80 °) water. This composition is applied with a brush to the wood 1-2 times. To get the veins, a solution is applied and, after allowing it to dry, is applied a second time in the form of veins. You can cover some areas with black mordant: 2.5-3 parts of nigrosine, dissolved in 100 parts of hot (60-80 °) water.

For imitation of birch and walnut maple use the following composition: 30 g of Epsom salts + 30 g of potassium permanganate + 1 l of water - cover, as with the previous composition.

To imitate "mahogany" use solutions of the following composition (in parts by weight): a) 3 parts of aniline cherry paint, dissolved in 150 parts of hot (60-80 °) water - wood is coated with this solution, and it acquires a cherry-red color; b) 2.5-3 parts of Ponceau aniline paint, dissolved in 150 parts of hot (60-80 °) water - wood is coated with this solution, and it becomes dark red in color.

Imitation of birch and beech "mahogany" produced by treating the wood surface with two solutions with an interval of 10 minutes: a) 50 g of copper sulfate + 1 liter of water; b) 100 g of yellow blood salt (ferrous-cyanide potassium) + 1 liter of water.

Imitation of pine, spruce, birch and beech wood under valuable wood species(brown dyeing) is produced by the following composition in parts by weight: 3 parts of acid chromium brown dye + 3 parts of vinegar essence + 10 parts of aluminum alum + 1 liter of water.

Imitation of wood "under the old oak" is made with a solution of the following components: 16 g of potash + 20 g of dry aniline brown paint + 20 g of dry blue paint + 0.5 l of hot (60-80 °) water + 1 teaspoon of household food grade 9% vinegar and is covered hot with brushes.

In case of surface dyeing, the impregnation depth is up to 2 mm, horizontal surfaces are dyed along the fibers, and the dye is applied on vertical surfaces from top to bottom. The temperature of the solution should be 40-50°. It is necessary to apply the solution several times until the desired color is obtained. The time gap between each application of paint should not exceed 5 minutes. Excess paint is removed with a dry cloth.

After the dye has completely dried (2 hours at a temperature of 18-20 °), the wood surface is rubbed along the fiber with a bunch of horsehair or sanded with sandpaper. Dye consumption is 2-4 g/m2. wood surface.

Coloring of oak and oak veneer "under the gray oak" is carried out in several steps: a) the surface is covered with black alcohol varnish; b) after drying, dry aluminum powder is poured on it and rubbed into the pores of the oak with a swab; c) the dried painted surface is wiped with a lump of horsehair or wood shavings along the fibers; d) covered with a colorless alcohol or oil varnish.

Mordant (deep) dyeing carried out in two stages: first, the wood is treated with a solution of mordant, and then painted. The following metal salts serve as mordants: copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate, potassium dichromate (chromic peak), etc. The mordant and dye are chosen depending on the type of wood and the color in which it needs to be painted. Solutions are prepared by dissolving salts in hot water, filtering and cooling.

Wood staining at home can be done according to the following recipes:

Cherry then brown wood can be achieved by exposing the wood to a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).

Yellow light wood veneer is obtained in a solution of potassium chloride, prepared at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter of water at a boil.

Grey-blue and black achieved by soaking sliced ​​veneer in an infusion of oak sawdust and iron powder (or sawdust) for 4-5 days.

Blue black bog oak possible by infusing oak veneer in a solution of iron shavings and vinegar.

Raven wing color at the oak and grey for other rocks can be obtained using the following composition: 1/6 part (by weight) of iron filings or shavings is added to an aqueous solution of nitric acid (ratio 1: 1). After the sawdust is dissolved, it is added to the water solution in a ratio of 1: and the solution is placed for two days in a warm place. After settling, only the light part of the solution, which is the coloring composition, is poured into a glass dish with a ground stopper.

Black tone wood can be obtained in a solution of acetic acid with the addition of rust (iron oxide). In such a solution, the veneer is soaked for a day. Before drying, veneer sheets are immersed in a solution of baking soda to neutralize the acidic environment.

Silvery or gray The coloring of sliced ​​veneer can be obtained by placing the veneer in a solution made from iron filings soaked in rainwater, the veneer being placed in the solution so that the sheets do not touch either the walls or the bottom of the dish.

bluish green tint is achieved by soaking common birch veneer in a solution of ferrous sulfate (at the rate of 50 g per 1 liter of water) for 1-2 days. After soaking in the solution, the veneer sheets are washed with running water. The saturation of the tone in this case is controlled visually. The bog nut in such a solution acquires a smoky gray color, and the beech becomes brown.

beautiful brown color wood is given ammonia vapor, for which the painted part is placed in enameled or glassware. They put an open jar of ammonia there, after which the dishes are tightly closed. After a few hours, the process of "staining" ends. With this method of painting, the parts do not warp and the pile does not rise.

reddish yellow color spruce and ash veneers are exposed to a 1:1 solution of nitric acid in water. After drying, the surface of the veneer is sanded with a fine-grained sandpaper and processed with a bunch of horsehair, sea grass, bast or dry, non-resinous shavings.

Unexpected shades of color are obtained by soaking sliced ​​veneer in coffee broth with the addition of baking soda after preliminary pickling in a hot solution of alum.

The following natural (vegetable) dyes with the addition of some chemical ingredients, with the help of which wood can be painted in the colors we need, are no worse than industrial dyes, and most importantly, they are light-resistant and do not decompose, and when they are used, spotting is excluded.

The color intensity of wood staining with solutions of natural dyes is enhanced when added tosolution of 2% aluminum alum.

Imitation of precious wood species.

Imitation of valuable wood species is usually carried out by impregnating the surface with an aqueous or alcoholic solution of various stains, aqueous solutions of aniline dyes or special chemical compositions - aqueous solutions of various substances. For processing wood "under mahogany" you can also use a mixture of black and red ink (the required proportion should be selected empirically). Imitation of walnut wood can be done with an alcohol 2% iodine solution.

Finish:
- “under the mahogany” alder, elm, ash, beech, cedar, birch, cherry and pear lend themselves well,
- "under the ebony" - birch, oak, maple, hornbeam, apple, plum and cherry,
- "under the walnut" - alder, birch, linden and beech.

Table: Aqueous solutions for imitation of precious wood:

Solution number: 1 Potassium dichromate
2 Potassium permanganate
Concentration, g/l: 1: 25
2: 25
Imitation: "Under the walnut"
Technology: Apply the second solution 10 minutes after the first

Solution number: 1 Copper sulfate
2 Yellow blood salt
Concentration, g/l: 1: 10-50
2: 100
Imitation: "Mahogany"
Technology: Apply the second solution after the first has dried.

Solution number: 1 Aniline chloride
2 Copper chloride
3 Potassium dichromate
Concentration, g/l: 1: 50
2: 50
3: 25
Imitation: "Under the ebony"
Technology: First, apply a mixture of the first two solutions, and after 10 minutes - the third solution

The solution is applied to a carefully polished surface with a swab of gauze folded in several rows, with a coarse brush, and a spray bottle. You can immerse the parts in the solution. In order for the composition to lay down in an even layer, the surface of the product must first be moistened. If after 15-20 minutes after the first coating the color of the desired tonality is not obtained, the treatment should be repeated (possibly several times), but at the same time try not to overmoisten the wood so as not to cause it to warp and crack.

It is better to check the color and tone of the dye first on paper, and finally on a piece of wood of the same species, prepared in a similar way. Raw, treated wood gives an almost correct idea of ​​the future brightness of color and tone under varnish. A dried smear covered with varnish corresponds to the final color and tone of the future coating.

The paint is better fixed on the wood if a little (up to 3%) wood glue is added to the solution. When processing coniferous wood, it is recommended to first clean it from resin deposits, and then rinse it with 10% sodium hydroxide solution, gasoline, turpentine, alcohol or 10% sodium chloride solution. It is possible to finish metal cases with plywood veneer.

Here is one of the technological methods:
A smooth, flawless sheet of organic glass with a thickness of about 3 mm and other dimensions, 30-50 mm larger than that of the largest wall of the case, is thoroughly washed from dust and dirt, dried, lubricated with Vaseline on one side and wiped dry. In this case, the vaseline remains in the micropores of the glass. Then the sheet is placed on a flat horizontal surface with the greased side up and some amount of prepared epoxy glue is poured onto it. The glue is carefully spread over the glass with a layer of 1-1.5 mm and a veneer sheet cut with some allowance is applied with the front side on it.

All air bubbles from the adhesive layer are carefully removed by squeezing them out to the edges. Bubbles are easy to detect by viewing the package from the side of the glass. Then the veneer is covered with a thin layer of epoxy glue and a case is placed on top - one of its sides. The case before this operation must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and grease. After 6-7 hours the organic glass is removed. To do this, a sheet of glass is carefully folded from one edge, and it gradually moves away from the layer of hardened glue.

The surface is smooth, with a mirror finish. Glue streaks along the edges are cut off with a file immediately, without allowing it to completely harden (after a few days it will become brittle and will chip off during processing). After that, the next side of the case is processed.

The color and texture of wood depend primarily on its species. However, if necessary, the color can be changed using special dyes. The quality of the imitation depends not only on dyes, but also on the treated wood.

To imitate wood, various dye solutions are used that easily penetrate the wood. The most famous of them are walnut stain, stains No. 10 and 12. The following compositions can be used to paint various tree species in different colors, as well as to imitate valuable wood species.

Pine, spruce, birch and beech wood brown

H 1 liter of water is diluted with the following solution:

• 3 g acid chrome brown dye,
• 3 g vinegar essence
• 10 g of aluminum alum;

Birch and beech wood stained mahogany

Prepare two solutions:

1. 50 g of copper sulfate per 1 liter of water,
2. 100 g of yellow blood salt per 1 liter of water.

First, the surface is treated with a solution of copper sulfate, then incubated for 10 minutes and a solution of yellow blood salt is applied.

Walnut birch wood stain

• 20 g of walnut stain and 2 g of stain No. 10 per 1 liter of water;

Old oak stain

• 16 g potash
• 20 g dry paint "aniline brown".

Take 20 g of dry blue paint and dissolve in 0.5 l of water, boil the mixture for 20-30 minutes, then add a teaspoon of vinegar. The surface is covered with a hot solution with a brush.

Gray oak stain

The treated surface of oak wood is first painted with black alcohol varnish. When the varnish is dry, silver powder (aluminum powder) is poured onto the surface. Then, with a clean swab, rub the powder into the pores of the oak.

The remains of silver powder are removed from the surface (after about an hour) with a clean swab. The powder remaining in the pores of the tree will be slightly glued with varnish, and “gray hair” will appear on the oak.

The dried painted surface is rubbed along the fibers with a lump of horsehair or wood shavings, then coated with a colorless alcohol or oil varnish.

Industrial water-soluble dyes

To imitate valuable wood species, you can use the following industrial water-soluble dyes for wood (MRTU 6-14-204-69).

• Dye No. 1 reddish brown is used to color beech mahogany.
• Dyes No. 5, 6 and 7 light brown are used for coloring beech and ash under light walnut, for coloring walnut and for coloring birch and ash.
• Dye No. 10 yellowish brown is used for coloring birch and ash walnut.
• Dyes No. 11, 12, 13, 14 walnut brown are used for coloring birch, ash and beech with medium and dark toya walnut.
• Dye No. 17 light brown is used for coloring birch and beech with a medium-tone walnut effect.
• Dye No. 122 orange-brown is used for coloring birch and ash walnut.
• Dye No. 124 red is used to color birch, oak and beech mahogany.

Water-soluble dyes are prepared as follows. Weigh the required amount of dye, then dissolve it in a small amount of hot water (at least 95 ° C) and mix thoroughly.

The resulting mass is poured into hot water and also mixed. The dye solution is left to stand for 48 hours, then it is filtered through two layers of gauze and applied to the products with a swab, brush or spray. The dye solution may have a different concentration depending on the desired color tone.

Literature: V.G.Bastanov. 300 practical tips, 1986

Wood processing methods: oak, walnut, rosewood, mahogany, rosewood, gray maple, ebony. Wood waxing, wood bronzing

Mordant for imitation oak wood

A mixture of 0.5 kg of Kassel earth, 50 g of potash in 1 liter of rain water is boiled for an hour, then the resulting dark broth is filtered through a cloth and boiled to a syrupy state. After that, it is poured into completely flat tin boxes (tin lids), allowed to harden and ground with a pestle into a coarse powder, which, after boiling with water (1 part of powder to 20 parts of water) for several minutes, gives an excellent mordant. to imitate oak wood.

Mordant for imitating walnut wood

Ordinary walnut has a light brown tint, which even after polishing does not look very nice. Therefore, a natural walnut tree should be given a darker tone, which is achieved by processing with a solution of potassium permanganate. As soon as the tree dries, this solution is applied a second time, but only in some places, so that veininess is obtained, and they try to make it look natural. The walnut tree has, along with dark veins, almost black, such places are best imitated with black mordant (see ebony). The quality of the imitation will depend on the skill of the worker.

Rosewood imitation mordant

The rosewood tree has a dark brown color with characteristic reddish veins. Since the walnut tree is closest to the rosewood tree, then to imitate the latter, they take the walnut tree; with other types of wood, such a beautiful fake is not obtained.

The walnut tree is first polished with pumice, and then evenly covered with a sponge or cotton wool with the following paint composition: 3 parts by weight of brown aniline and 100 parts by weight of alcohol. After drying, the operation is repeated if necessary. The dark veins of the rosewood tree are outlined with a flat brush adapted for this purpose with a decoction of logwood. After drying, the wood is wiped with a sponge soaked in a weak solution of potassium dichromate, then a small amount of oil is rubbed into it, and finally polished. For polishing, a solution of red shellac in alcohol is used, to which an amount of an alcohol solution of orseli is added so that the red color characteristic of this polish has the appropriate strength. Then, from the combined action of the coloring substances contained in the wood and the polish, reddish veins and a dark brown color of the rosewood are obtained, and other places take on a reddish-brown color, which is also observed in the rosewood. Depending on the amount of orsela solution taken, a lighter or darker color of the rosewood is obtained.

Mordant for imitation mahogany

The wood intended for mordant must be well dried, and the application of mordant is best done with a brush, which must be immediately washed and dried after each use.

1) A very beautiful and durable mordant is prepared by mixing 500 g of finely ground sandalwood, 30 g of potash and 1.5 liters of water in a flask. The mixture is left to stand in a warm place for a week, shaking frequently. The liquid is then filtered through a cloth and stored in a suitable vessel until consumed. In another flask, 30 g of alum are dissolved by heating in 1.5 liters of water, filtered and stored. The object intended for etching is treated with the heated first solution several times until the desired color is obtained, after which it is covered with a second, also heated liquid. Mixing both liquids in one should not be. After drying, the etched object is wiped with linseed oil with a cloth.

2) Recently, sandalwood is often replaced with aniline dyes that are soluble in water. The advantage of aniline paints lies in their high covering power. To imitate mahogany, Ponceau paint is very suitable. 100 g of Ponceau aniline are dissolved in 3 liters of water. This solution is applied to the wood to be painted once or twice, depending on the color that is desired.

Mordant for rosewood imitation

Rosewood is distinguished by dark red veins. To imitate this tree, maple is taken as the most suitable in its structure. Maple planks or plywood should be carefully sanded before going into

processing, since only in this case they are well stained.

1) To imitate rosewood, two paints are prepared: one for lighter red veins, the other for darker ones. These paints are solutions of aniline in 60+ alcohol. Paints are made according to the following recipes.

1) Light red:

1 part by weight coralline,

1 part by weight rosein

2) Dark red:

1 part by weight coralline,

1 part by weight rosein

0.1-0.2 parts by weight of brown aniline,

100 weight parts of alcohol or vodka.

With the help of a brush divided into several parts, the veins are painted with No1 paint so that a space of 10-12 mm remains between each two. As soon as these veins dry, some of them are reinforced here and there with the same paint. After that, the veins are painted with thin kolinsky brushes in such a way that they do not seem sharply defined. Finally, the darkest veins are painted with No2 paint. The entire drawing must be executed in such a way that natural maple veins pass between the drawn veins.

If the maple tree came from dark varieties, then to lighten it, immerse it in a solution of 1 part bleaching powder in 20 parts of water and, after the tree is immersed, add 1 liter of strong vinegar to the solution, which makes the tree brighten in half an hour. Then it is placed for a day in a solution of 1 part of soda in 10 parts of water, removed from which it is washed and dried. Wood treated in this way can be stained with the most delicate tones that penetrate deep into the wood.

2) For a more rough imitation of rosewood, without painting the veins, you can use the following mordant. For this, two liquids are prepared: 100 g of sandalwood is dissolved by boiling in 300 g of water; 100 g of Kassel earth and 10 g of potash are dissolved in 300 g of water. Then both liquids are mixed together, filtered and poured into different tin vessels.

Mordant to simulate gray maple

As a gray mordant for wood, it is good to use water-soluble, durable and light aniline paint nigrozine. A solution of 7 parts of nigrosine in 1000 parts of water turns the wood into a beautiful silver-gray color, which is so durable that even after two years it does not change at all.

Mordant to simulate black tree

Smoothly planed black (ebony) wood has a pure black color without gloss and has such a fine grain structure that the latter cannot be seen with the naked eye. The proportion of this tree is very high. Ebony is polished so well that its polished surface is like a black mirror. In order to achieve a good imitation, one should take dense, hard varieties of wood with a delicate structure. This condition is satisfied, for example, by beech and pear trees.

1) Items with carefully smoothed surfaces are etched with sulfuric acid, after which they are washed with water and dried. After treatment with this acid, objects are etched with a logwood solution or iron mordant.

In the first case, having prepared a 10% solution of logwood in water, they cover objects with it, then allow them to dry, and then treat them with a 1% solution of potassium dichromate in water.

In the second case, iron mordant is used, which is prepared as follows: old iron is treated with strong vinegar for several weeks, taking 10 parts of vinegar for 1 weight part of iron. Then boil 1 weight part of ink nuts with 10 weight parts of water. The object to be painted is placed for several days in the resulting solution of iron acetate (1st solution), then dried in air, after which it is also placed for several days in a decoction of ink nuts. If the object is inconvenient in size to be immersed in a liquid, then it is treated with a brush several times with a decoction of ink nuts until a dark yellow color is obtained and then covered with a solution of iron acetate or a solution of ferrous sulfate until a black color is obtained. In both cases, the operation is carried out until the color of the desired density is obtained. It is even better to cover the object alternately with an infusion of ink nuts, then with an infusion of iron acetate or ferrous sulfate, and each time you need to let the surface of the object dry and then cover it again.

2) An extremely beautiful black coloration of wood can be achieved by treating it with nigrosine black aniline dye, which dissolves in water. For this purpose, 8 parts by weight of nigrosine are dissolved in 10 parts of water and the object is covered with this solution. After drying, a solution of copper in hydrochloric acid is applied to it, which is prepared from 20 parts by weight of hydrochloric acid and 1 part by weight of copper. Immediately after applying the copper chloride solution, the wood takes on a beautiful matte black color, very similar to the color of real black (ebony) wood. Polishing gives it a strong shine.

wood waxing

There is the following simple method, which is quite suitable for making wax for waxing expensive wooden furniture. Take 100 g of good yellow wax, finely chop it and add 12 g of mastic or 25 g of rosin powder. These substances are put into an earthen vessel and dissolved on coals. When the whole mass is melted, it is removed from the fire and 50 g of warm turpentine is immediately added. Everything is thoroughly stirred and poured into a tin or stone jar. In this form, the composition is stored until use. To polish furniture, take a small amount of the composition of pieces of woolen cloth and rub the wood, which quickly acquires a very beautiful and soft sheen. Furniture waxed in this way retains a beautiful polish for a very long time.

Tree bronzing

With a diluted solution of liquid glass, objects made of wood are evenly smeared with a brush, and then they are sprinkled with golden bronze from a jar, the neck of which is tied with muslin. Bronze, after drying, sticks to the object so strongly that its surface can even be polished with agate. This method is recommended for bronzing frames for paintings and other objects.