Currant is considered an unpretentious shrub that does not impose excessive demands on care and growing conditions. But, there are times when the main external parameters are perfectly maintained, and the currant does not bear fruit. To understand and prevent this phenomenon will help knowledge of the reasons due to which the fruiting of the currant stops. In the article we will tell you why currants do not bear fruit, consider the main mistakes of gardeners.

Reasons for the lack of fruiting on currant bushes

There is a natural period during which currant fruiting occurs actively and abundantly. But, sometimes, even with good care and compliance with all the conditions for growing a crop, it is impossible to wait for the berries. If the currant does not bear fruit in the first year after planting, then this is normal. If the lack of fruit is observed in subsequent years, but action must be taken.

Responsibly approach the choice of currant seedlings so that the fruiting of the kut is of high quality.

The most common phenomena leading to the unnatural end of the fruiting of currant bushes:

• violation of the requirements for planting currant seedlings;
• selection of a non-zoned variety that is not able to grow and bear fruit in certain conditions of the region;
• illiterate choice of landing site for bushes;
• imbalance in the lighting of currant bushes (excess or lack of sunlight);
• discrepancy between the climate and the requirements of the plant for weather conditions;
• irrigation disturbances;
• lack of cross-pollination;
• density of landings;
• lack of pruning (formation) of bushes or illiterate conduct of this operation;
• age of currant bushes;
• crop diseases and pests.

Agrotechnical causes of infertility of currant bushes on the site

Follow the rules for planting currants so that the plant develops normally.

Summer residents can lay down further infertility of the culture even at the time of choosing a variety or planting currant seedlings. What you should pay attention to so that this does not happen:

1. The place where currant bushes are located. For a shrub, you need to choose a place with harmonious lighting. Currant does not like shading or heavily sun-drenched areas throughout the day. The neighborhood of currants with a very warm fence will be unsuccessful. It will increase the thermal effect and will reflect the sun's rays, which will lead to overheating of the bush. Shading the bush, on the contrary, will lead to a rapid growth of green mass with no ovaries.
2. The right choice of seedling. First of all, pay attention to the presence of leaves. Seedlings, dug up before shedding leaves and planted in autumn, freeze slightly in winter. In addition, the greatest loss of moisture occurs through the leaves. A seedling bought with leaves will already have a dried root, which will also adversely affect its development.
3. Landing hole dimensions. If there is not enough space for the root system of a currant seedling, then the plant suffers in the first year of development. In the future, fruiting decreases and may stop. The second aspect is filling the pit with potash-phosphorus fertilizers in autumn mixed with black soil.
4. Soil composition. Overfertilized soil also stimulates the development of greenery, but currants are in no hurry to give birth. The second factor that requires attention is the indicator of soil acidity. Currants do not bear fruit well on acidic soil.

Tip #1 Apply nitrogen fertilizers and organics when planting currant seedlings in early spring to ensure the normal development of the plant.

Climatic reasons for the lack of fruiting on currant bushes

Apply different types of fertilizer under the currant bushes to ensure optimal nutrition for the plants.

If a currant seedling is planted in the right place and taking into account all the requirements of the planting stage, then another reason may be the discrepancy between the climatic conditions of the region. In this case, even a young and healthy bush refuses to bear fruit.

1. If the plant is annually damaged by return spring frosts or severe winter frosts lead to the death of fruit buds, then it will not work to wait for the currant harvest.
2. Varieties intended for cultivation in the southern regions cannot cope with the changeable weather conditions of the northwestern zone. In such varieties, the buds start growing early, and when frostbitten by frost, they do not bloom. Therefore, fruiting does not occur for natural reasons.
3. In bushes with poor frost resistance, young shoots often freeze out in snowless or cold winters, on which the crop is formed. Therefore, the fruiting stage does not occur.

Before planting currants on the site, familiarize yourself with the requirements of the variety for weather conditions. It is best to choose zoned proven species.

Infertility of currants in violation of the requirements for plant care

Check the acidity of the soil to create optimal conditions for the development of currants.

Some points are not even taken into account by gardeners when currants are infertile. For example:

1. Absence of pollinating plants. It is generally believed that currants are self-fertile crops, but among modern varieties there are those that require cross-pollination for fruiting. Otherwise, a couple of berries are tied on the bushes, and not every year.
2. Insufficient watering is the second point that you need to pay attention to. Especially in hot, dry summers, even healthy large currant bushes produce a meager crop of small berries.
3. The use of the same type of fertilizer to feed currant bushes leads to a decrease or cessation of fruiting of the crop. Read also the article: → "".

Tip #2 Carefully monitor the weather conditions in order to adjust the schedule of watering and fertilizing currant bushes in time.

Control and prevention measures for violations of agricultural technology and care

Timely measures taken at the first signs of a decrease in yield can prevent further currant infertility. And if you pay attention to the bushes before the appearance of such signs, then you can definitely avoid it.

Cause	Solutions
Wrong planting site.	Choose a site with sufficient lighting without excessive shading. Do not plant currants in a place where it will be under the scorching rays of the sun during daylight hours.
Irrigation deficiency.	Closely monitor the air temperature and the activity of the sun. Adjust the duration and frequency of watering, taking into account these indicators. Make refreshing waterings. Mulch tree trunks to reduce moisture loss. Water in the near-stem grooves so that the water soaks the soil deeper than the top layer.
Top dressing with one type of fertilizer.	Given the season, apply nitrogen fertilizers in early spring, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers during the formation of ovaries and fruiting. Adjust nutrition, taking into account the composition of the soil on the site, so as not to overdose some components and not provoke a deficiency of others. Draw up a competent plan for feeding currants, taking into account agronomic recommendations.
Planting currants in acidic soil.	Determine the acidity of the soil using folk methods or litmus paper.
Violations when planting a seedling.	Carefully inspect the seedling before buying. Especially pay attention to the condition of the root, the presence of leaves, mechanical damage, signs of disease. Properly prepare the planting egg - maintain the dimensions, orient to the cardinal points, apply fertilizer.
Thickening of currant rows.	When planting, follow the recommended scheme. Do not skip rejuvenating and shaping pruning bushes.

Currant infertility when affected by pests and diseases

Another important factor affecting the yield of currants is damage by pests or diseases.

Problem name	How does it manifest	How to fix
Reversion (terry) currant	At the time of flowering, flowers appear with abnormal sizes - too narrow petals and overgrown pistils. On the flower tassel instead of berries are yellowish scales. The leaves change shape, become three-lobed and stretch. In addition, they lose their specific flavor.	There are no cures. Uproot the plant and burn it completely. Plant varieties that are resistant to the bud mite. For prevention, regularly inspect the bushes in order to notice the pest in time and acquire only healthy planting material.
Kidney mite damage.	Affected buds are round, larger and do not bloom. Currant branches are exposed due to the lack of leaves.	Carefully inspect the buds of the plant, especially in early spring. Early detection of the tick will prevent the pest from spreading to epidemic proportions. Remove the affected buds before the leaves begin to bloom, so as not to miss the moment the pest exits. Spray currant bushes with acaricides: "Apollo"; "Vertimek"; "Nissoran"; "Envidor". The preparations are diluted according to the instructions and sprayed on the plants.
Glass case.	The larvae of the pest eat away the core of the branches, moving along it inside. There are no external signs of injury. To detect a pest, the shoot is cut off. A black hole in the center of the cut indicates the presence of a glass case. Affected shoots do not develop and gradually dry out.	Selectively cut the shoots on the bushes. If the presence of a pest is detected, repeat the cut to a healthy core. Coat the cuts with garden pitch. With a high degree of infection, cut off the shoots in the stage of dormant buds to rejuvenate the plant. Use varieties with relative resistance to glass damage.
Defeat by forest ants.	Insects feed on the interior of the flower. Currant loses its ability to bear fruit due to the lack of ovaries.	Use biological (planting volatile plants) methods of control and the use of chemicals.
Bush aging.	This is a natural reason for the absence of ovaries and fruits on currants. Old branches differ from healthy ones in the absence of fruits and leaves.	Regularly carry out rejuvenating and shaping pruning. Leave branches no older than 5 years on the bush.

Gardeners' mistakes leading to infertility of currants

Inspect plants regularly to spot pests in time.

Gardeners make mistakes when growing currants, which lead to the fact that the bushes stop bearing fruit:

Mistakes	What do they lead to
Planted plants in the wrong place for its development.	The plant lags behind in development, its ability to bear fruit is reduced.
Currants are fed only with manure or other types of organic matter, without taking into account the needs of the crop and the composition of the soil.	An excess of nitrogen leads to hypertrophied growth of green mass and weakening of fruiting.
Regular inspections of bushes are not carried out to detect signs of damage to currants by pests and diseases.	Pests not destroyed in time quickly spread and cause irreparable harm to currant plantings.

Mistakes can be prevented by studying the requirements of agricultural technology for growing currants and carefully observing all points.

Red currants

Why we respect redcurrant

Most modern varieties of red currant are descendants of the common currant, red currant, rocky currant, multi-flowered currant and Varshevich currant.

The attitude of Russians towards red currants is ambivalent. On the one hand, the people correctly say: “Grow black currants for grandchildren, red- for children, and white- for myself". On the other hand, you will hardly see redcurrants in most garden plots and in the market. But in vain!

And in Europe and the USA, red currants are grown more and more. After all, its berries contain from 40 to 60 mg /% vitamin C, up to 500 mg /% P-active compounds, up to 5.1 mg /% carotene, 22% dry matter, 4.2% organic acids.

Thus, seriously inferior to its black “relative” in the content of vitamin C, its red currant has on average no less than the beloved raspberries and strawberries.

But the special value of red currant lies in the exceptionally high content of coumarins and jelly-forming substances in the berries. The content of coumarins in it is from 2.5 to 4.4 mg /%, i.e. significantly higher than that of blackcurrant and gooseberry and close to such accumulators as figs and pomegranates. And coumarin is a natural medicine to prevent increased blood clotting and heart attacks associated with the formation of blood clots.

Redcurrant berries also contain a lot of pectin substances that bind and remove various harmful substances from the body, incl. and radioactive, and counteract their negative influence. The pectins contained in red currant berries are not inferior to pharmaceutical preparations in their effectiveness. Thanks to pectins, currant is a natural anti-radiation agent.

The content of iodine in red currant berries reaches 5-6 mcg /%, here it is a recognized leader among Russian garden and garden plants and is not inferior to the imported “record holder” feijoa.

Red currant has long been used in folk medicine. Juices and fruit drinks made from berries quench thirst well, eliminate the feeling of nausea and suppress vomiting, and have strong antiseptic properties.

Red currant juice is extremely useful for colds, because. is a strong diaphoretic and antipyretic, especially in children. It has a fairly strong diuretic effect, promotes the excretion of salts from the body, which is especially useful in the treatment of patients with nephrolithiasis and gout. It significantly improves the metabolism in diabetes mellitus.

High quality table and liqueur wines are made from redcurrant juice. A particularly valuable wine can be made from white currant berries. And in general, the fact that red and white currants are less common in Russia than black currants is not explained by their shortcomings. After all, it is not for nothing that in the Baltic countries it is red currant that is one of the leading berry crops.

Red currant juice quenches thirst well, berries serve as an excellent tool for improving appetite, and activates the activity of the intestines. It has a diaphoretic effect, and it is prescribed for colds. Juice has a cleansing effect, it helps to remove uric acid salts from the body.

In terms of their chemical composition and biological action, white currant berries are close to red currant. However, these berries contain significantly less vitamins, in particular ascorbic acid.

Red currants- It is a perennial shrub up to 2 meters high. Unlike blackcurrant, it has a less developed, compressed bush. It has a powerful root system, the diameter of which is twice the diameter of the crown. The bulk of the roots is located at a depth of up to 50 cm, and the vertical ones penetrate to a depth of up to 1.2 meters.

Red currant differs from black currant in more restrained growth of zero shoots. Its branches are more durable, the annual growth of lateral branches is weak, the bark on them often peels off. The main branches remain growing for 5-6 years, and then branch.

Since branches of the zero and first order can live up to 15 years or more, its ability to form shoots is small. In places where snow accumulates, its branches often break. Therefore, in the fall they must be tied to a wooden stake previously installed in the center of the bush.

Redcurrant blooms before all other berry bushes. At first, buds and brushes appear on it, and the leaves develop later. The main fruiting is concentrated on bouquet twigs and annelids. They live 2-3 times longer than blackcurrants, covering the branches for a long time. Therefore, the red currant crop is located inside the bush and is almost not transferred with age to the periphery of the bush.

Redcurrant is self-fertile. In addition, its flowers attract a lot of bees, so its yield is always high. The berries ripen 5-7 weeks after flowering.

Red currant fruit clusters are long- from 9 to 25 cm. Berries weighing from 0.5 to 1.5 grams of various colors- from pale pink or yellow to dark cherry. They can hang on branches for a very long time without reducing their taste.

The most valuable for fruiting are 2-3-year-old shoots, but 4-6-year-old branches also bear fruit well. Due to this, she has a longer nature of active fruiting than her famous "relative". She reaches her maximum productivity in the 9-10th year.

Since the bulk of fruit twigs and flower buds are located near the tops of annual growths, annual growths on branches of the first, second and third order cannot be shortened, as this will cause a decrease in yield. Aging branches can be rejuvenated by pruning with a transfer to a strong branch.

RED CURRANT: AGRICULTURAL TECHNOLOGY

Redcurrant is very winter-hardy. It grows well in areas with light loamy or sandy loamy, moderately moist soil, does not tolerate close groundwater standing. In lower areas, the berries become smaller, the yield decreases. Such areas must either be drained, or plants should be planted on low mounds.

Areas with heavy clay and acidic soils are not suitable for it. Therefore, planting pits on such soils are made larger and 1-2 buckets of peat and river sand are added to them.

Redcurrant grows well and bears fruit only in good light. With strong shading, the bushes develop poorly, fruiting moves to the periphery of the crown, and the berries become smaller. And white currants tolerate shading even worse.

The scheme of planting red currant depends on its varietal characteristics. Plants with a compact bush form (Sugar) are planted at a distance of 1.2-1.4 m, semi-spreading (Beloved, Natalie)- through 1.6 m, but powerful, strongly spreading (Dutch red)- after 2 m.

When the pit is three-quarters full, the earth is tamped in it, well-rotted compost is added, compacted, watered, a mound is made in the center of the pit and the roots of the seedling are spread on it. Before planting, as always, the seedling must be placed in water for two hours so that it is well saturated with water.

It is not bad to add "Kornevin" to the water, for the fastest formation of new roots. If there are dry or broken roots, then, of course, they should be removed before planting.

The bush must be planted obliquely, so that the three lower buds on each stem are buried in the soil, and only three buds are also left above the ground. Above the top of them on each stem make a straight cut. Then the plantings are covered with soil that remains after digging the hole. If this earth is too dense, then it is diluted with sand. After that, the seedling is watered so that the soil sticks well to the roots, but in no case is it trampled down. If the roots are exposed after watering, then the soil is additionally sprinkled, but no longer watered.

In planting holes, one tablespoon of AVA can be applied in place of all other mineral fertilizers and no mineral dressings for three years. In this case, of course, the deoxidizer must be introduced (it is best to use dolomite or chalk).

The first two or three years the root system grows, and only then does the rapid growth of the aerial part of the bush begin. The exception is the Jonker-Van-Tets variety, which grows quickly, like a blackcurrant.

In the year of planting, in autumn, the bush is no longer pruned and slightly spud to a height of 10-12 cm. In the spring, the bush must be unraveled and shortened, leaving shoots 20 cm long above the soil surface, cutting them to a bud facing outward. Such pruning strengthens the branches, ensures the growth of continuation shoots in the right direction and stimulates branching.

The main thing in this- deepening of seedlings by 7-10 cm compared to how they grew in the nursery, because replacement shoots, due to which the bush is formed and rejuvenated throughout life, appear only from the underground buds of the base of the branches.

The first years after planting, red currant pruning is not performed. Shorten only too long annual shoots, small side shoots coming from the base of the bush, diseased branches. In adult bushes, branches lying on the ground, damaged by glass, scale insects, affected by powdery mildew, as well as weak shoots in the center of the bush, are removed. And only after that they begin to trim the bush according to its age.

But in any particular case, the state of the branches should be taken into account. Sometimes it is better to shorten a younger 5-6-year-old branch to a side branch if it grows poorly or dries out, and sometimes a 10-year-old healthy and productive branch should be left. At the same time, perennial and annual branches should be located as freely as possible and not interfere with each other.

In the future, in a well-formed red currant bush, you need to have 10-12 fruiting branches and 3-4 renewal shoots. With good care, a red currant bush can bear fruit for up to 20 years.

You can often see that the bark of the red currant has peeled off. There is nothing special about this, because. It's normal for her.

WHY DID RED CURRANT STOP BEARING FRUIT?

This question can often be heard from gardeners. She's probably just old. Her fruits live for about 10 years, and then the branch grows old. Therefore, as soon as the yield on the branch begins to decline, it must be cut to the point of attachment to the trunk.

The whole bush may also become obsolete if it is 15-20 years old. In this case, you can try to rejuvenate it by gradually cutting out a third of the bush to the very base over 3 years.

RED CURRANT FLOWERS,

BUT, WITHOUT TIME TO GIVE BERRIES, DRY

There are two reasons. Most likely, the bush is more than 20 years old, and no rejuvenation will help it. Such a bush should simply be removed.

But it could also be one of the fungal diseases. If this bush is valuable to you, then in the spring, as soon as the leaves begin to unfold, you need to spray this bush with Zircon, Epin-extra, Novosil preparations. Immediately after flowering, spray again with Zircon, and after harvesting- "Hom". If this does not help, then the bush must be removed immediately.

RED CURRANT: REPRODUCTION

Redcurrant reproduces vegetatively, as well as blackcurrant. In gardens, it is propagated mainly by horizontal or arcuate layering. To do this, 1-2-year-old shoots are pinned to the soil in early spring and spud twice a season, and rooted layers are dug up in autumn. But this method is not very productive. Therefore, it is faster to propagate it with lignified cuttings.

But the propagation of red currants in this way requires special conditions to obtain good planting material, because. these cuttings take root much more difficult than blackcurrant cuttings. Therefore, the usual terms for planting redcurrant cuttings are unsuitable.

In order for the lignified cuttings of red and white currants to take root, they must be planted at the most optimal time.- in the third decade of August. Planted at this time and provided with sufficient moisture throughout the autumn, they have time to partially give roots by winter. Since spring, their root system is strengthened and can fully provide water and nutrition to the developing underground part of the plant.

For cuttings, one-year-old shoots and branches of the first order, extending directly from the ground, are chosen from her. These branches are cut into cuttings 25 cm long. In this case, the apical part of the branch can also be used (few gardeners know about this), unlike blackcurrant, because. her tops of the shoots have time to ripen by September and have normally developed buds.

A place for planting cuttings is prepared in advance. An additional 1 bucket of humus or compost is added to the garden bed, 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, ash, sand. Then the site is dug up to a depth of 20-25 cm and leveled.

Planting cuttings should be carried out quickly, immediately after cutting them, in moist soil. The survival rate of the cuttings will increase significantly if the lower ends are kept in water for a day, and even better- in a solution of heteroauxin or other growth substance that promotes rapid root formation.

A place for planting cuttings should be prepared in advance. It should be open, moist, not subject to flooding, and the soil should be loose and fertile. An additional 1 bucket of humus or compost is added to the garden bed, 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, ash, sand. Then the site is dug up to a depth of 20-25 cm and leveled.

Cuttings are planted obliquely, leaving only 1-2 buds above the surface. Planted cuttings of red currant for normal development require more careful care, especially in September, October and spring of the next year. After planting, they should be watered immediately, well mulched and shaded to create a moist environment for their rooting. The same should be done in April, May and June of the following year.

If all the necessary conditions are met, most of the planted cuttings of red and white currants take root in autumn and overwinter with primary roots 1-3 cm long.

During spring planting, lignified cuttings of red and white currants usually do not have time to take root before the leaves bloom, dry out and die.

With some experience, you can quickly propagate with green cuttings. This results in healthy planting material, free from pests and diseases.

The term of green cuttings must be selected very carefully. If black currant takes root during almost the whole summer with green and semi-lignified cuttings, then in red currant the green cuttings rot, and in semi-lignified cuttings- rooting is reduced.

Under optimal conditions, the rooting rate of green cuttings, depending on the variety, is 50-70%. It is best to do this when the shoots begin to coarsen, but have not yet become lignified, i.e. sometime in the middle of June.

To do this, the shoots are cut early in the morning and immediately placed in a bucket of water in a cool place. Then they are cut with a sharp knife into cuttings with 1-3 buds. Cuttings with 2 buds and one short internode take root better. It is very important that there is at least one formed leaf on the handle.

The lower oblique cut is made 0.5-1 cm below the kidney in the opposite direction from it, the upper- over the kidney. Cuttings during the day must be treated with the same growth stimulants.

Then the cuttings are planted on a prepared bed to a depth of 1.5-2 cm at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other, and 6-8 cm between rows and covered with a mini-film greenhouse.

The most important thing in the initial period- keep the leaves moist. Therefore, the cuttings must be constantly sprayed. And to obtain piece planting material, it is convenient to use a “super mini-tip” made from a plastic bottle cut into two parts.

When planting, the root collar of red currant seedlings should be deepened by 5-6 cm so that there is a sufficient amount of basal buds in the soil that will ensure the development of the bush.

Redcurrant can be grown not only in the form of a bush. Its crown is easily formed in the form of a pyramid, a spindle, the simplest palmettes of fan or trellis types.

Very decorative red currant in standard culture. The standard crown not only has an unusual appearance and attractiveness, but also affects the precocity, yield and quality of berries. Usually a bush is formed on a short or high trunk. But in the Urals, such a currant freezes a lot in harsh winters.

The harvest of red currants, unlike black currants, is harvested at a time, along with tassels, when the berries are fully ripe. They are much more tender than blackcurrants, and transport is less well tolerated. They are collected in dry weather, in the morning, when the dew subsides, but not after rain and not during the hot part of the day. These berries are stored in the same way as blackcurrant berries.

For a family of 3-4 people, one bush is enough, because with good care, an adult redcurrant bush can produce up to 10-12 kg of berries annually. It is only necessary to choose the right variety and place for planting.

Gardeners often refer to the fact that red currants have too sour berries. This is only true for older varieties such as Dutch Red. But in the last decade, many new sweet-fruited varieties have been created, the berries of which contain no less sugar than blackcurrant berries. At the same time, it should be remembered that red currants are more useful than black ones, especially for people, so, let's say, "aged".

RED AND WHITE CURRANT VARIETIES

Baraba - mid-season variety. Bushes are medium-sized, compressed. The berries are large, red, sweet and sour, with a tart aroma.

white grapes - late-ripening variety Bushes are medium-sized, slightly spreading. The berries are white, transparent, large, suitable for dessert and technical processing, especially for winemaking.

White Fairy (Diamond) - mid-season variety of white currant. The bushes are dense, slightly spreading. Berries of medium size, transparent, very tasty. The variety is disease resistant.

Versailles white - mid-season variety, common in gardens. Bushes are medium-sized, wide. The first berries in the brush are large, then smaller. The berries are large, yellowish, sweet and sour, refreshing. Productivity is high, winter hardiness is satisfactory.

Valencia - mid-season productive variety. Brushes of medium length, berries are very large, red, fragrant, pleasant taste.

Valentinovka - late ripening variety. Bushes are powerful, slightly sprawling. The brushes are long, dense, the berries are one-dimensional and sour, they make excellent jelly. The variety is resistant to pests and diseases.

Vika - variety of medium ripening, winter-hardy, easy care, resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose. Fruit clusters are dense, dense, medium length, with a long petiole, convenient for collection. The berries are red, medium in size, do not shrink towards the end of the brush, good taste. Suitable for eating fresh and processing into wine, compote, jelly.

viksne - winter-hardy productive grade, early term of maturing. The berries are large (0.6-1.1 g), dark cherry, sweet and sour (4.2 points), do not crumble. Resistant to anthracnose, moderately affected by aphids.

Gazelle - mid-season winter-hardy productive variety. Bushes are medium-sized, compact. Berries of medium size, very tasty. Successfully propagated by lignified and green cuttings.

dutch red - late ripening common variety. The bushes are vigorous, powerful, with a wide crown. Annual shoots are straight, thick. Brushes contain up to 15 berries. The berries are medium, red, with a transparent skin, good for technical processing. Productivity and winter hardiness are high.

Dutch pink - mid-season productive variety. Bushes are medium-sized, compact. Berries are pink, very tasty.

Gift of the Eagle - mid-season productive variety. The bushes are vigorous, dense, with thick shoots. Berry brushes are very long (up to 16 cm), they contain up to 25 berries. The berries are red, medium size, sweet and sour, have high gelling properties.

Jonker van Tets - early maturing variety. The bushes are tall, compact or slightly sprawling, winter-hardy, with a stable yield. The berries are red, large, mediocre taste. The brushes are very long, contain up to 14 berries. The variety is resistant to fungal diseases.

Konstantinovskaya - mid-season, winter-hardy variety. The berries are medium in size, very beautiful. The variety is not very resistant to fungal diseases.

Red Cross - mid-season variety. Bushes of medium size, rather sprawling. The berries are large, uniform, with a transparent skin, dessert taste. The variety is very productive, winter-hardy.

Leader - mid-season variety. Bushes are medium-sized, slightly sprawling. The fruiting brush is long. Berries of medium size, red, very sweet, refreshing, transportable.

marmalade - the variety is late-ripening, productive, winter-hardy, resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose. The berries are quite large, one-dimensional, ripen on August 1-5, collected in brushes of medium length. The taste is pleasant, sweet and sour. Berries are transportable, suitable for fresh use and processing.

Natalie - mid-season productive variety. The bushes are vigorous, medium spreading, with long tassels. Berries of medium size, good taste, good for technical processing, transportable.

Beloved - mid-season productive variety. Bushes are medium-sized, medium spreading. Winter hardiness and self-fertility are high. The brushes are very long. Berries of medium size, bright red, dessert taste, perfectly gelled.

Oryol star - mid-season productive variety. Bushes are tall, slightly sprawling, with thick shoots. It is distinguished by beautiful, long and dense brushes that contain up to 20 berries. The berries are large, pink-red, sweet-sour taste.

Memory Gubenko - late-ripening grade, differs in high winter hardiness and productivity. Bushes are medium-sized, slightly sprawling. The berries are large, red, good taste.

early sweet - variety of early ripening, winter-hardy, fruitful, self-fertile. The ripening of the berries is friendly, they stay on the bush for a long time. At a young age, the bush is very spreading, with age it becomes more compact. The berries are medium, round, dark red, with a dessert taste. General purpose variety. The bushes are powerful, medium sprawling. The brushes are medium and long. Good tasting berries. The variety is productive, powdery mildew is slightly affected.

Red Lake - mid-season productive variety. The berries are red, very large, uniform in size, excellent taste. The variety is resistant to pests and diseases.

Rosita - late ripe variety. Bushes are medium-sized, compressed. The berries are very large, red, pleasant taste with a delicate aroma.

Rondom - late-ripening fruitful grade with a powerful high bush. Its winter hardiness is average, but resistant to powdery mildew. The berries are medium, dark red, sweet and sour.

Sarah - mid-season productive variety. Bushes vigorous, compressed. Fruit clusters are long. The berries are large, red, sweet and sour, with a refreshing aroma.

Sugar - mid-season variety. Bushes semi-spreading, winter-hardy. Racemes of medium length, berries of medium size, red, dessert taste, hold well on the bushes until the berries are fully ripe.

Smolyanin white - mid-season productive variety. Bushes are tall, medium sprawling. The variety is winter-hardy and productive. Berries of medium size, white; transparent, sweet and sour. They hang on the bushes for a long time without losing their taste. The variety is resistant to fungal diseases.

Currant Varshevich . Bushes are tall, slightly branched. The brushes are long, carry up to 15 berries. The berries are dark red, mediocre taste. The ripening period is late. The best variety for technical processing, especially for wine. Productivity and winter hardiness are very high.

Ural dawns - late ripening variety: Bush medium-sized, semi-spreading. The berries are bright red, not one-dimensional, medium in size, excellent sweet taste, small seeds.

Ural beauty - variety of medium ripening, fruitful. The bush is medium-sized, slightly sprawling, with thick strong shoots. The berries are large, red in color, collected in dense long brushes, excellent dessert taste, universal purpose.

vintage white - late ripe variety. Bushes upright, dense. The berries are transparent, large, sweet and sour. The variety is winter-hardy, fruitful.

filippok - mid-early variety of Siberian selection. Bushes are medium-sized, compressed. Fruit clusters up to 18 cm long, they contain up to 25 berries or more. The berries are red, large, with a pleasant refreshing taste.

crispy - early maturing variety. Bushes are medium-sized, sprawling. Fruit clusters are long. The berries are large, red, sweet, fragrant. The berries have a dry separation, so they are transportable. They retain their taste until late autumn.

Chulkovskaya - early maturing variety. The bushes are tall, powerful, dense. Brushes contain up to 15 berries. The berries are red, with a transparent skin, medium size, dessert taste. They ripen at the same time and do not crumble for a long time. The variety is winter-hardy, fruitful.

Generous - an old common mid-season variety. The bushes are medium-sized, semi-spreading, winter-hardy, well formed without pruning. Brushes are short, contain 5-6 berries. The berries are large, bright red, pleasant, sweet and sour refreshing taste.

Yuterbogskaya - mid-season, very productive variety. Bushes of medium size, dense, sprawling. Racemes are very long, bearing from 10 to 20 berries. The berries are large, smooth, light cream, almost colorless, pleasant taste.

V. G. Shafransky

Note to gardeners. The seedlings of the newest varieties of red currant are sent by the Oryol VNIISPK.



Almost all household plots grow various vegetables and fruits. A special place among fruit and berry plants is given to currants.

It has unique healing properties, which our great-great-grandmothers knew about. However, not all owners know how to properly care for this shrub, so many of them sooner or later begin to wonder why blackcurrant does not bear fruit. You will learn about the causes of such a problem from today's article.

Why is this plant valued?

The cultivation of wild shrubs began to engage in the monks who lived on the territory of Kievan Rus. This happened in the distant X century, and from that moment it began to be bred in almost all European states. Those who know why blackcurrant does not bear fruit well will also be interested in how this plant is useful.

Berries, buds and leaves of this shrub have excellent healing properties. They contain a large amount of essential oils, so they are used as a disinfectant. In addition, blackcurrant has a diaphoretic, diuretic and fixative effect. It contains many different vitamins, including A, P, B, and C.

It is also rich in iron, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, potassium, sodium, pectins, flavonoids, glycosides, glucose, organic acids and tannins.

Why does the blackcurrant bush not bear fruit?

Under favorable conditions, this plant produces an annual crop. Moreover, the peak of fruiting falls on the fifth year from the date of planting. With proper care and favorable conditions, about thirty kilograms of berries can be harvested from one hectare. However, some gardeners complain about the lack of a good harvest and begin to look for reasons why blackcurrants have ceased to bear fruit.

One of the most important factors that can reduce the number of ripe berries is early flowering. If it fell on a cold period, when pollinating insects do not show proper activity, then you should not count on getting a bountiful harvest.

The second, no less important, reason is an improperly formed bush. Some amateur gardeners, out of inexperience, leave an excess amount of basal shoots or completely ignore this process.

Choice of landing site

Those who want to figure out why blackcurrant does not bear fruit should understand that the yield also depends on where the bush is located. Perhaps it was placed in the shade and it does not have enough sunlight. Or maybe, on the contrary, currants grow along the fence, which warms up in extreme heat and kills fruits that have not had time to ripen.

How to form a bush?

So that you don’t have a question in the future: “Why doesn’t blackcurrant bear fruit?”, You need to provide it with proper care. In young bushes planted in early spring, it is necessary to cut off almost the entire ground part so that no more than two or three buds remain on each branch. This manipulation provokes the formation of new basal branches.

A year later, in early spring, you need to cut the shoots so that two buds remain above the soil surface. For further fruiting, usually no more than three shoots are left. All other branches are completely deleted.

In the third year, twelve healthy basal shoots are left on the shrub, in the fourth - no more than twenty. These manipulations contribute to good fruiting. Quite large berries appear on the bush formed in this way.

Diseases that reduce productivity

For those who do not know why blackcurrant blooms but does not bear fruit, information about ailments that prevent the normal formation of berries will be useful.

One of the reasons for the lack of a crop may be reversion. A currant leaf affected by this disease becomes longer and acquires a pointed shape. The characteristic aroma ceases to emanate from the plant, and the flowers change color to purple. Bushes infected with reversion must be dug up and destroyed. Another pest that prevents fruiting is the bud mite. To prevent its occurrence between the bushes, it is recommended to plant garlic. A tick that infects young kidneys actively develops inside them.

For those who want to understand why blackcurrants do not bear fruit, it will be interesting to learn about another reason. It is a glass butterfly. Leaves affected by this pest begin to wilt. The insect gnaws passages inside young shoots. Affected branches must be cut and sealed with garden pitch.

Is it possible to rejuvenate old currant bushes?

This is done by cutting off the entire ground part, with the exception of annual healthy branches. Moreover, the root shoots are shortened so that only one or two buds remain on the surface of the soil. During the first two years after rejuvenation, it is recommended to carry out the procedure for the formation of a bush, making sure that as a result no more than five or six shoots of different ages remain.

To grow a strong and well-bearing currant, you need to regularly fertilize the soil with humus and mineral supplements, as well as loosen and water it in a timely manner.

Red currant - answers to questions

Gardeners love red currants for their unpretentiousness and responsiveness to care. You should not "push foreheads" black and red currants, each of them is good in its own way and deserves a place in the garden. But red currant plants are more durable than black currants, they tolerate drought better, they are distinguished by regular fruiting and increased resistance to certain pests and diseases, the berries have high technological properties. However, not every gardener manages to grow red currants.

A lot has already been planted on my site, but there are no red currants yet. Where is the best place to place it?

When choosing a place for a currant plantation, one must take into account its biological characteristics.

The shoots of red currant easily break off under the influence of the wind, especially in vigorous varieties (Faya fertile, Luxton perfect) therefore, the sites must have natural or artificial protection from the winds. Red currant seedlings are placed in unshaded areas.

Compared with black currant, the red currant root system is more powerful and deeper (up to 1.5-2 m), which explains its increased drought resistance and dislike for too wet soil.

Red currants are propagated like gooseberries and black currants. But in many varieties, lignified cuttings root worse than in black, they require two years of cultivation in the nursery, since in the first year they form only a short increase. It is usually recommended to do this in late August - early September. But I like (this is verified) the flowering period of bird cherry more. At the same time, the survival rate is almost 100%; in terms of growth, the plants are even better than those planted in the fall.

Cuttings are harvested in late autumn or early spring, before bud break. In both cases, they are stored in the refrigerator. Before rooting, they are placed for 2-3 days in water, which is changed every day. And if you add aloe juice to it, or a little honey, or a drop of lemon juice, or what you consider to be “life-giving” moisture, the currant will certainly respond to such care and give roots.

Green cuttings with a “heel” are also acceptable (during the setting of berries, a new growth is cut from 1 cm of the growth of the previous year). With this method, light soil, artificial fog, watering, ventilation, etc. are needed. In amateur gardens, when the need for planting material is small, it is better to propagate currants with horizontal and arcuate layering. In this case, the one-year-old shoot is bent, pinned and covered with light soil. Further care consists in watering, weeding and loosening. You can bend down the shoot both in autumn and in spring, and in the first case, in the first case, in a year, in the second - in the fall.

I want to plant red currants, but I don’t know when and how to do it?

Considering that the buds wake up at an air temperature of plus 6 °, and the roots (at the level of the suction roots) when the soil warms up above 10 °, it is better to plant red currants, like all shrubs, in the fall 1-2 weeks before the onset of frost. Before planting, they dig the soil half a meter, make manure and fertilizer.

What methods of shaping red currants exist?

Red currant can form both a bush and a tree.

If they want to have a bush, they plant it obliquely and after planting they cut it off strongly, leaving 3-4 buds above the soil surface. Starting from the second year, pruning reaches the formation in the center of the bush about 8-10 evenly spaced branches. The peculiarity of the formation and pruning of bushes is associated with the durability of fruit formations, skeletal branches and the nature of fruiting. Strong annual basal shoots are usually not cut out, but only short and underdeveloped ones are completely removed. If there are not enough lateral branches in the second year, zero shoots are shortened by 1/5-1/4 of their length. One-year growth on skeletal branches is not pruned either, since the bulk of flower buds are laid in the upper part of the branches (at the growth boundaries). If the old branches give a good harvest of high-quality berries, do not touch them either. Usually old branches are cut at the age of 6-7 years and older. Branches of 5-6 years of age, if they have stopped growing and the berries have become small, can be shortened by 1/3-1/2 by transferring to stronger side branches. This is the so-called anti-aging pruning, which will enhance growth and fruiting.

Straight growth and strength of branches of individual varieties of red currant (Jonkyr van Tete, Firstborn, Dutch Red), the durability of the ringlets and bouquet twigs make it possible to form bushes in a standard form (tree), which facilitates soil care, harvesting, and improves the quality of berries.

Plant the “tree” only straight, after removing other shoots and buds from the root neck and bole to a height of up to 40 cm (if possible) and leaving the apical growth plus another 2-3 for replacement in case of freezing.

Red currant lends itself well to flat shaping in the form of a fan and a vertical wall.

Please explain whether it is necessary to have pollinator varieties.

Red currant is a self-pollinating plant. In the garden, it is enough to have two bushes of the same variety. But ... the plant is alive and it is much more fun for it to overcome difficulties when there is another variety nearby. If the area is limited, the currant is well grafted in all ways, and believe me, someone else's branch will not be superfluous.

How to deal with red gall aphids and other pests? Why do individual branches of currants dry out?

Red gall aphid is an eternal companion of red currant. Unfortunately, there are no varieties resistant to this pest.

Shoots (branches) of currants dry out if:

* they are damaged by a glass case - the core is eaten;

* the roots reached salts (carbonates), water, unripe manure: in this case, the plant is first oppressed, there are light leaves (white, yellow);

* in winter there were long thaws followed by frosts or there was a severe frost in the absence of snow cover.

The spread of diseases and pests depends on many factors - weather, infection, etc. To resist the onslaught, you need to follow the following simple rules and techniques for plant protection:

** cut off and burn the affected leaves (red gall aphid, powdery mildew) and cut the shoots (glass case); keep ants out;

** do not thicken the plant, the site itself and the currant should be well ventilated;

** after preliminary collection and burning of litter, loosen the soil shallowly in autumn under and around the bushes;

**purchase and grow only healthy planting material;

** do not plant bushes near diseased and pest-infested plants;

** do not leave open wounds (breaks from the wind, from the tool, etc.);

** dust the crown with furnace ash; spray or rinse the plants with a soapy solution (200-250 g of green liquid soap or 300-400 g of laundry + soda ash);

**Regularly prune garlic and onions planted between plants.

I consider it unacceptable to use strong poisons in my garden, but biological agents such as Delta, ladybugs, trichograms help.

Which varieties of modern ones have a long brush and large berries, which varieties have the sweetest?

Beautiful long filled brush with large even berries in varieties Stefanis, Valentinovka, Imperial yellow, Memory of Gubenko, Hero, Dutch pink.

Sweet berries in red currant varieties Chotokwa, Dutch Rose, Rosa Chair, Early Sweet, Rondom, Hero, ELS 10-10.

The listed varieties are suitable for all regions of Russia, except for the most northern ones.

Currant is an amazingly responsive plant. She is always with us in trouble (she will heal, heal) and in joy (wine is not inferior in taste to grape wine, let's also remember jellies, juices, etc.). And how decorative! Grows almost everywhere. So let it please us and rejoice at us - caring and skillful.

N.V. Fedorycheva, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Ulyanovsk

Why did the red currant suddenly cease to bear fruit?

Most likely you have an old one. Fruits (short fruit twigs on which flower buds are laid, located along the entire length of the branches, but there are especially many of them at the ends of the branches) live for about 10 years. Then the branch becomes obsolete, and you just need to cut it. The entire bush may also become obsolete if it is about 15-20 years old.

In this case, it can be rejuvenated by gradually cutting out a third of the bush to the very base over the course of three years.

The blackcurrant bush also rejuvenates after about 10-12 years. Or gooseberries - in 18-20 years.

In gooseberries, the fruits cease to give birth after 8-10 years, and in black currants - after 5. Therefore, as soon as the yield on the branch begins to decline or it ceases to bear fruit at all, it should be cut to the point of attachment to the trunk.

The bark peeled off on the stems of the red currant. What it is?

Don't worry, there is nothing special - this is normal for red currants. The same phenomenon is observed in honeysuckle and some raspberry varieties.

Red swellings appeared on the leaves of the red currant. What to do with them?

Red swellings on the leaves are the so-called galls, which causes red gall aphid. She lays her eggs on the tops of the stems, which causes the leaves to curl at the tops. It hibernates in these leaves. They need to be picked up and burned.

In early spring, as soon as the regrowth of leaves begins, aphids penetrate the leaf blade from below and eat away the inside of the leaf. Her feces cause swelling on the leaves.

To prevent aphids from entering the leaves, you can spray with a solution of drinking or soda ash (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). But spraying must be done before swellings appear, and not after, because aphids are inside the leaf. And necessarily on the inside of the leaf, so that the aphids crawling along it burn the little body with soda and die. In rainy weather, such spraying is pointless.

Spraying can be done with any absorbable preparation, but it is better not chemical, but biological.

Redcurrant grows, blooms, but dries up before it has time to give berries. What is the reason?

Most likely, the reason is that the bush is old (more than 20 years). No rejuvenation will help him. Taking layering from him is a pointless business, because the same thing will happen to them.

Purchase new planting material. Now there are many good varieties, but there are few good nurseries that grow seedlings. Most often at exhibitions they sell material, to put it mildly, not at all the one for which it is given out. For example, planting material is often imported to the North-West from Belarus or Ukraine, from the southern regions of Russia and even from Moldova, which is not at all suitable for this climatic zone.

Planting material should be bought zoned and in nurseries in your area.

But maybe the reason is in one of the fungal diseases. Try in the spring, as soon as the leaves begin to unfold, spray this bush with zircon. After flowering, immediately spray it again, and after harvesting with copper oxychloride or Bordeaux liquid. If this does not help, feel free to replace the bush. It can be planted in the old place only by completely changing the soil.

I have black currants growing in my garden. I bought it in the fall, and not with a cutting with one branch, but immediately with a bush. The seller promised that the bush would bear fruit next summer. Two years have passed. The plant looks normal: leaves bloom in spring, they are green, without yellowness, but there are so few berries that you can’t even pick up a handful. Why does currant not bear fruit? Maybe transplant it?

L.N. Udalova, Penza

In this case, a very common error is described. Gardeners do not buy a young plant grown from cuttings, but a large bush in the hope of getting a faster harvest. But, as a rule, it turns out the opposite.

Pests and diseases accumulate in a large plant, so it does not give a good harvest. Often, it is because of this that currants are uprooted from the site. It is a pity to throw away such a bush, it is divided into parts and taken to the market.

Note that you can ONLY purchase large bushes in the market. No nursery sells such planting material.

The lack of fruiting in currants can be for several reasons.

The first is a currant bud mite. It is believed that if you collect tick-borne buds in the spring, then the problem is solved - the pest is destroyed along with them. But this is far from true. The currant mite emerges from the buds in early spring and spreads along the branches, populating other buds. It sucks the juices from the plant, which greatly weakens it. As a result, the yield is very low.

The second common reason is currant terry. This disease is caused by a virus that infects flowers. In appearance, they become similar to terry. The ovaries are formed very little, or none at all.

The virus is carried by the currant bud mite. The disease is not cured. Bushes are to be removed.

The third reason for the lack of harvest is currant glass. This is a butterfly that lays its eggs inside the shoot. The larva lives inside it, eating away the core. Outwardly, such shoots are difficult to distinguish from healthy ones. Unless the leaves are smaller and the berries, of course, are very few.

Only by cutting a branch can you determine that it is infected with a glass case. A black dot is visible in the middle - a trace left by the larva.

Sometimes all shoots are affected by a glass case. Naturally, there is practically no harvest. It is best to remove such a plant or drastically rejuvenate it by cutting branches low above the ground so that all cuts are clean.

CONCLUSION: do not buy adult blackcurrant bushes. If there is no crop on your currant, check it for pests and diseases. When there are a lot of bud mites or branches affected by a glass case, it is best to uproot the bush. Do not plant blackcurrants in this place!

With currant terry, the bush is definitely removed. Burn the whole plant.