We insulate the garage from top to bottom. How to insulate a brick garage from the inside with your own hands How to insulate a brick garage

In the last article, we told you . Today we will not talk about installation methods, but about how much heaters for a garage cost. We will do this not for the sake of interest, but to calculate how to make your garage warm, while spending a minimum of money, and it won’t hurt to ask the price. Calculations will be carried out at Moscow prices for January 2016 at the rate of 75 rubles per 1 US dollar. We will only briefly talk about the advantages and disadvantages of materials, but we will still focus on the “selfish” issue.

Styrofoam insulation for the garage

Dowel fastening technique.

At the mention of garage heaters, the first thing that comes to mind is polystyrene foam. And for good reason, because it is the most common type of insulation. They insulate not only non-residential premises, but are also successfully used for apartments. At the same time, more than once the question arose of how to cheaply insulate a garage, because for this category of premises, the main thing is not aesthetics, but the effect, then why overpay?

Therefore, the work on thermal insulation is carried out mainly on their own, and there is nothing complicated there. Before you insulate your garage cheaply, remember the saying that the miser pays twice. You need to save money, but not at the expense of quality. When choosing foam, pay attention to:

• granule size;
• density;
• sheet thickness;
• the presence or absence of connecting locks.

The thickness of the foam is selected based on the climatic features of the region.

Before you inexpensively insulate the garage, calculate the required thickness of the insulating layer. If it is too thin, moisture will appear between the insulation and the wall, followed by fungus. More effective external insulation, and internal insulation is likely to be cheaper. The difference is only in the cost of finishing, the same siding will cost more than drywall.

Before you inexpensively insulate the garage with foam, choose a method for attaching it to the wall. According to the rules, it is glued with special glue and fixed with plastic fungi. But in practice, they just don’t do anything, up to gluing onto mounting foam. Let's calculate how much it will cost to insulate the garage with polystyrene foam. So, for example, let's take a room with standard dimensions:

• width 3 m;
• length 6 m;
• height 2.2 m.

We will insulate the walls, ceiling and gates. Everything will require 52.8 square meters of foam. You need to take at least five (thickness 5 cm). The retail price in Moscow is 135 rubles per square meter, which is 7128 rubles in total. One sheet is attached to five fungi, respectively, they will need 690 pieces of 2 rubles each, total - 1380 rubles. You will also need a universal building adhesive for facades, which costs 500 rubles for a 25 kilogram bag. The consumption is 5 kg per 1 sq. m., which means that it will require 10 bags, the cost of which will be 5 thousand rubles. In addition, mounting foam is needed, three cylinders will go away, no less, and this is another plus of 600 rubles.

Answering the question about the best way to insulate the garage from the inside, we considered that the cost of insulation with foam plastic according to all the rules, but without finishing, will cost 14,100 rubles. You can not use glue, but only fix the foam sheets on the dowels, then the amount will decrease by 5 thousand rubles, but the quality will suffer.

Insulation of the garage with foam

The seams between the foam sheets are foamed.

Penoplex is similar to polystyrene not only in name - this is its modernized version, a new generation of garage heaters. Which one is better not to think, of course, penoplex:

• denser;
• less combustible;
• more resistant to mechanical stress;
• with equal characteristics, it has a smaller thickness.

In addition, this type of thermal insulation comes with connecting locks, although foam plastic is also available with such a device, but we considered it a cheap option, without locks. The presence of connecting grooves prevents cold air from getting inside the room, creating an almost insurmountable barrier. For complete sealing, all joints must be blown out with mounting foam.

Garage insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool does not support combustion.

Continuing to look for an answer to the question of how best to insulate a garage, consider such an insulator as cotton wool. Of course, not the cotton wool that is sold in pharmacies, but a special building mineral wool, into which various additives are mixed. Its name and some characteristics differ from the type of additives:

• glass wool - thermal conductivity coefficient 0.03;
• slag wool - thermal conductivity coefficient 0.46;
• stone wool - thermal conductivity coefficient 0.08.

Insulation of the garage with mineral wool should be carried out in accordance with the recommendations of manufacturers regarding the density of the material. Method of work:

• we put a hydrobarrier;
• then a layer of mineral wool, fasten with dowels;
• again a hydrobarrier;
• certainly finishing.

To insulate the garage with mineral wool, you will need two layers of a hydrobarrier, these are two rolls of 450 rubles each, a total of 900 rubles. We will take mineral wool cheaper, but not in rolls, since then it shrinks heavily, as a result of which air pockets form. To fix this problem, you will have to remove the trim and add insulation. This development should be avoided. A package of mineral wool for 12 square meters costs 730 rubles. We will need 5 such packages, which will amount to 3650 rubles.

You also need dowels (fungi) to attach it to the wall, the number is the same as for foam. It remains to calculate the cost of finishing. It will be a frame made of a metal profile, sheathed with a thin 9 mm OSB board at 380 rubles apiece. The sheet size is 1220x2240 mm, which is 2.98 square meters. Such sheets will require 18 pieces, which is 6840 rubles. Now we consider the metal profile:

• guide (on the floor and ceiling) 29 meters - 500 rubles;
• ceiling profile about 80 meters - approximately 1600 rubles.

The total cost of insulating the garage from the inside with mineral wool will be 14,870 rubles. To this amount, you must also add the cost of self-tapping screws for the installation of metal structures and pressed OSB boards.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Liquid foam is blown through a small hole.

Garage insulation with polyurethane foam begins with the construction of a false wall. This is the same metal frame, sewn up with some material. We have already decided that it will be OSB board. After the wall is ready, liquid polyurethane foam, also called penoizol, is pumped into the gap between it and the load-bearing wall. The advantages of this material:

• not afraid of moisture, so waterproofing is not needed;
• does not burn;
• fills all voids and takes their shape after solidification;
• does not miss sounds.

Penoizol can be in the form of crumbs or self-increasing foam, which greatly increases in volume. But unlike polyurethane foam, it does not violate the geometry of the ceilings that contain it. It cannot be said that this is a budget garage insulation, but there is no doubt that it is of high quality and safe. In addition, everything happens very quickly. How it works in practice:

• a team arrives with equipment;
• makes holes in the necessary places;
• foam is blown through the holes;
• simultaneously control the degree of filling voids.

The price is indicated in cubic meters, but in square meters it reaches about 180 rubles. It turns out that the total cost of the work will be approximately 18,500 rubles.

Expanded polystyrene

Reflective insulation - penofol.

There are different types of expanded polystyrene foam. This is a thin layer up to 5 mm. Its ability to recover after compression, thermal conductivity and degree of protection against moisture depend on the quality of manufacture. The material is used for insulation and sound insulation. There are products with a glued layer of foil. This is a reflective insulation, the foil in which can be on one or both sides. Also, such a heater can be self-adhesive.

Unfortunately, expanded polystyrene itself does not work well as a heater, because it is too thin. It is used as an additional barrier. Therefore, it is better to discard thoughts about insulating the garage with isolon once and for all, just spend your money in vain, the effect will be unsatisfactory. This is if there is no additional insulation with foam or cotton wool.

Let's summarize our calculations. How to insulate the garage inside, what is the most profitable option? Calculations for a garage 3x6x2.2 m showed the following results:

• foam plastic (without finishing) - 14.1 thousand rubles;
• penoplex (without finishing) - 16.2 thousand rubles;
• mineral wool - 14.87 thousand rubles;
• penoizol - 18.5 thousand rubles.

As expected, the main choice is between mineral wool and foam. At the same time, having insulated the garage with mineral wool, there will already be a beautiful finish of the OSB walls with a slab, the insulation will breathe. Minuses of mineral wool is the fear of moisture.

Attempts to heat the garage without complex insulation lead to one disappointing result - the money spent on heating literally flies out into the chimney, and it does not get warmer in the box. In an unheated building, things are no better - the temperature inside does not differ from the conditions "overboard". But every start of the engine at -20 ° C leads to the same wear as a run of 600 km. To create comfortable conditions in the garage even in winter, you will have to take care of reliable thermal insulation. This is the only way to cut off the cold outside and keep the heat inside.

Insulation options for garages built from different materials

To choose one or another garage insulation technology, you will have to weigh the many pros and cons, “try on” various insulating materials to the features of the building and your own wallet. A heat engineering calculation will also be required, taking into account the climate in the region, the thickness and material of the enclosing structures. For example, walls made of aerated concrete blocks with a large number of air pores in themselves have good resistance to heat loss. At the same time, metal frame buildings are seriously losing in this regard.

There are three options for insulating a garage:

• external;
• internal;
• combined - the most effective and expensive.

Insulation along the facade is vital for buildings that are prone to accumulate moisture: wooden frames and garages made of porous concrete blocks. In a good way, metal boxes also need to be isolated from the outside, since their dew point always turns out to be on the inner surface. But it is difficult to do such work on your own, so we will consider this option as an exception to the rule.

It would be right to insulate the garage from the outside - this is the only way to take the dew point outside the building envelope and protect them from soaking when condensation forms

It is also desirable to protect brick and concrete buildings from the outside, but thermal insulation from the inside is cheaper - the right of choice remains with the owner. Here it is necessary to additionally take into account the safety of the materials used for the human body. Of course, there are no absolutely harmless among them - even natural wood is treated with chemical impregnations - but you need to strive for this. The safest products are well-known brands that monitor the maximum allowable concentrations of phenols, formaldehydes and styrenes in their materials.

If you use an unheated garage in the winter, you still need internal insulation. Otherwise, you get a simple canopy with a gate that protects the car from the rain, but not from the cold. But you can refuse external insulation.

Separately, it is worth considering the insulation of the roof of the garage, since a lot of heat is lost through it.. It all depends on the design and availability of the attic. Possible options for a roof of different configurations:

• Flat or with a slight slope allows the laying of insulation from above. It is better to use rigid foam boards or extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), and waterproofing from above with roll materials.
• The pitched roof is insulated with the same foam or mineral wool laid between the rafters. The latter option is preferable, since it does not require particularly precise sizing and additional fasteners.
• In a garage with a cold attic, you can line the ceiling with glass wool rolls - you get reliable and budgetary thermal insulation. The main thing is that the roofing material protects it well from getting wet, and ventilation ensures the removal of accumulated moisture.

We also allow the option of insulating the ceiling in the garage. The same materials are used here as for wall insulation: mineral wool, rigid polymer plates. This solution allows you to create a continuous "warm" contour without gaps and cold bridges. But it is necessary that from the side of the room it is closed by a vapor barrier that cuts off moist air. Additional waterproofing from above is required.

Having decided on the insulation technology and the features of the enclosing structures of the garage, it is already much easier to choose the material. For example, for a metal box, foam spraying or the formation of a “sandwich” using foam is ideal. Walls made of aerated concrete with a thickness of 300 mm are enough to finish the outside with warm perlite plaster. But most buildings allow the use of simple and cheaper technologies. We offer a kind of TOP of popular types of thermal insulation with a calculation of their number and associated costs for budgeting.

Styrofoam and extruded polystyrene foam

These two related heaters differ from each other in both characteristics and price. But the technology of working with rigid polymers remains unchanged, so we will consider them as one material. Styrofoam is sold in flat sheets of various thicknesses, so all you have to do is calculate the surface area and add 10% waste to calculate the amount you need.

The most reliable is the insulation of structures with foam plastic in two layers. Laying thin slabs with overlapping seams provides wind protection.

Calculation example:

• It is necessary to insulate 50 m 2 of walls with foam plastic plates 10 cm thick.
• For a two-layer installation, 100 m 2 of hard polymer is needed, but already 5 cm.
• Taking into account the margin for trimming and waste, we accept 100 + 10% \u003d 110 m 2.
• The largest PSB-S foam sheets come in a standard size of 1000x1000 mm - you will need 110 of them.
• Extruded polystyrene foam has a smaller area of ​​​​1200x600 mm (0.72 m 2), that is, it already needs 153 pieces - these are incomplete 20 packs of 8 sheets.

For fastening, you will need special glue and mounting foam to seal the seams. Dry adhesives are sold in 25 kg bags and have an average consumption of about 4 kg / m 2, that is, in our case, 400 kg or 16 packages of the mixture will be needed. Polyurethane-based adhesive foam is bought at the rate of one cylinder per 10 squares - a total of 10 units plus a mounting gun.

For reliable adhesion, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe adhesive mass after pressing the sheet should occupy 30-40% of the foam surface. In the case of adhesive foam, strips with a width of at least 6–7 mm are applied for this.

As for the consumption of mounting foam for sealing joints, it all depends on the density of laying the insulation panels, as well as the quality of the edges. In addition, this composition is ideal for correcting all the flaws in the insulating layer, so more may be required. The minimum consumption for our example is 2 cylinders (about 60 liters of foam). But often the actual volume of the composition at the exit does not correspond to what is stated on the package, plus part of it is outside and must be removed, so this figure should at least be doubled.

This category includes both basalt slabs and cheaper fiberglass. The latter has a very limited scope, since the density of the material is low, and under load it quickly loses volume. The maximum that glass wool is capable of is the insulation of horizontal and flat-slope surfaces from the inside.

Basalt wool is available in a wider range, so it can be used on almost all surfaces, if you choose the right material:

• Internal insulation of the attic floor (for example, in a garage with an attic floor) allows the use of light, inexpensive rolls with a density of 30 kg / m 3.
• The walls are sheathed from the inside with mats weighing 45–60 kg / m 3.
• For hinged facade systems, slabs with a density of about 70 kg / m 3 are suitable.
• External insulation for plastering is carried out with two-layer sheets with a more rigid weaving of the upper fibers with a density of 90 kg / m 3.
• Flat roofs for welded insulation or thin screed require the use of expensive boards from 110 kg/m 3 and above.

Mineral wool insulation is not the cheapest option for a garage. But if the building is adjacent to a residential building, it is better to use it for fire safety purposes.

As in the case of foam, laying wool is recommended in two layers, so that the area of ​​​​insulation when calculating materials is multiplied by 2. In addition, you will need a waterproofing film 200 microns thick and a vapor barrier. Their dimensions will be larger, since all seams must be made with an overlap of 10–15 cm.

Mineral wool insulation usually does not require the use of any fasteners - it is simply inserted into a wooden frame made of timber. Here it will take a lot. The length of the lumber is determined by the dimensions of the protected surface, that is, the height of the walls or the length of the slopes of the sloping roof. The number of bars depends on the installation step - it should be 1–2 cm less than the width of the mineral insulation. The "wet" method of insulating the outer walls of the garage does not provide for the construction of a crate - basalt slabs are glued with a special compound applied to their surface. The average consumption of the finished mixture is 9–10 kg / m 2.

When gluing the facades with mineral wool, additional fixation of the plates with dowel-fungi is performed - 5 pieces for each sheet

Mineral thermal insulation in the case of a garage is not suitable only for the floor, although this option is quite acceptable in residential buildings. But in boxing, it is impossible to provide it with sufficient protection against moisture, from which the insulation quickly loses its properties and becomes unusable.

"Highly specialized" heaters

The choice of insulating materials on our market is not limited to polystyrene foam and mineral wool. However, the use of other heaters is not so widespread, as they have their drawbacks. However, they should also be considered, since in some cases the use of alternative types of thermal insulation may be justified.

• Expanded clay is an inexpensive bulk material that is suitable for filling into inter-wall gaps with two-layer masonry, as well as for installing a “warm” floor screed. It has high water absorption and average thermal conductivity of about 0.1–0.18 W/m∙°C.
• Foam glass blocks are a good and resistant to many external influences heat insulator, but very expensive. In addition, glass foam blocks are not friendly with cement-based alkaline solutions (adhesives, plasters).
• Fiberboard and arbolite are mostly building materials that certainly have good heat-insulating characteristics (0.08–0.11 W / m ∙ ° С). It is better to provide for the use of cement-bonded particle blocks and slabs at the stage of construction, and then choose heaters for them.

Required Tools

At each stage of work on the insulation of the garage, you need your own set of tools. The list also depends on the selected material, but the main changes will affect cutting fixtures. For example, mineral wool is well cut with a construction knife, but with foam plastic it is easier to manage with a home-made "hacksaw" made of steel wire on wooden handles. You can, of course, use a jigsaw, but in this case the sheets will crumble a lot, so you have to work slowly. The rest of the tool kit is standard.

For surface preparation:

• a hard synthetic brush (in some cases, a manual brush or cord brush for angle grinders);
• grinder - to remove protruding reinforcement and large protrusions of the main surface;
• narrow spatulas for sealing cracks.

For fixing the insulation:

• drill / screwdriver;
• construction stapler;
• notched trowel or mounting gun for adhesives.

In the case when the insulation layer is laid in the crate, do not forget to pick up a tool for making the frame: a jigsaw for a wooden beam, a hacksaw, an angle grinder or scissors for a metal profile.

Instructions for self-insulating the floor in an unheated garage

The cheapest way to insulate the floor in the garage is to make an expanded clay pillow and fill it with concrete. True, in this case, the finished base will have to be completely disassembled, and the whole process will be time-consuming.

Work order:

1. Dig a pit in the ground to a depth of half a meter and line it with roofing material with a stop at the walls. Seal the waterproofing seams with bituminous mastic or simply solder.
2. To a height of 30 cm, fill the pit with expanded clay and cover it with reinforcing mesh.
3. Prepare a concrete solution and pour the screed of the required thickness. Try to make a base with a slope towards the gate to divert water.

Do not forget that when installing a concrete floor around the perimeter, it is necessary to leave expansion joints. Use a special PET foam damping tape for this.

Insulation for cement pouring can also be done using foam. It is not necessary to fasten it - it is enough to spread the sheets tightly on a leveled surface, covered with a film, and foam the seams. From above, perform waterproofing again, lay reinforcement and pour concrete mortar.

Under the cement screed, sheets with a density of at least 25 kg / m 3 are needed

Thermal insulation of the floor in the garage with a cellar

When it comes to a garage with a cellar arranged under it, floor insulation has to be done especially carefully. Much here depends on the design of the floor. Ideally, if it is wooden - the fight against excess moisture in the basement does not give a 100% result, and the array, unlike concrete, not only accumulates moisture, but also willingly gives it away.

The scheme of the insulated floor will look like this:

1. Waterproof insulation laid between the lags - the lightest foam will do, since there will be no load on it.
2. Diffusion membrane with one-sided permeability so that the wooden beam can "breathe" through it. At the same time, 10-15 cm lag at the ends remain free.
3. 5 cm high batten - provides a ventilated gap above the insulation layer.
4. Draft floor from edged boards.

For a garage with a basement - the best option

Such a solution will cut off the cold coming from the basement, and let excess moist air into the garage. Here, ventilation ducts will already be put into operation, preventing dampness from accumulating and destroying wooden structures and the car itself. However, all lumber should also be protected from decay - for this they are treated with antiseptic impregnations and allowed to dry.

To provide better protection of the base of the garage from the cold, you can make a “warm” blind area around the entire perimeter from the outside. It will shift the line of soil freezing, and under the building, even in winter, a positive temperature will remain.

Wall insulation with foam plastic from the outside: instructions and photo gallery

Traditionally, before starting work, we prepare surfaces for insulation: we remove exfoliating pieces, repair chips and potholes, and clean the walls from dirt. Masonry or concrete with their absorbent properties must be additionally treated with a penetrating primer. After that, the insulation is performed in the following order:

1. Fix a metal corner at the bottom of the walls - it will serve as a support for the rows of foam.
2. Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the instructions on the package.
3. Apply the composition to each sheet in one of the ways shown in the photo.

   This method is only suitable for polymer adhesives in cylinders. The glue is applied with a notched trowel in a layer of 3–4 mm.
   "Blots" of glue should be evenly distributed on the sheet
   

Some garage owners believe that there is no need to insulate the structure intended for storing their car. After all, and so the walls and roof protect the body from corrosion and rust.

However, this opinion is not entirely correct. After all, sudden changes in weather, as well as low air temperatures, have a negative impact not only on the condition of the entire car, but also on its heart - the engine. According to experts, the temperature in this building during the cold season should be within 5-10 degrees. To create such conditions, one cannot do without warming the garage from the inside.

The ongoing measures aimed at creating the necessary heat and humidity regime will extend the life of the machine. In addition, after the garage is insulated from the inside, the conditions for staying in it will become more comfortable for a person.

Selection of the required work option

Garage insulation from the inside is possible using various technologies. The choice of the necessary option will depend on many reasons, including the material from which the structure itself was built. The owner will also have to clarify the price of various insulating materials in order to try them on to their financial capabilities.

It is impossible to insulate a garage from the inside without carrying out a heat engineering calculation that takes into account the climatic conditions of the region, as well as the material and thickness of the enclosing structures. For example, insulation of a concrete garage from the inside will require less thorough than metal frame buildings.

There are three options for doing this. Garage insulation can be:

outdoor;
- internal;
- combined, which is the most effective and at the same time expensive.

Facade insulation is simply necessary for those buildings that tend to accumulate moisture. These include wooden frame garages, as well as those for the construction of which porous concrete blocks were used. It is also desirable to insulate the outside and metal boxes. After all, their dew point can always be found on the inner surface. However, doing this work on your own is a very difficult task. That is why this option is most often considered as an exception to the general rule.

Roof insulation

A separate issue is the thermal insulation of the roof. It is also relevant due to the large heat loss in this part of the structure. When deciding whether to carry out roof insulation work, the selection of the most optimal option will depend on its design. You should also consider the presence or absence of an attic. Do-it-yourself insulation from the inside with different roof configurations can be performed in various ways:

1. With a flat or slightly sloping roof, it is allowed to lay insulation from above. For this, rigid plates and also polystyrene are most suitable. In such cases, waterproofing is laid on top using roll materials.

2. With a pitched roof, mineral wool or polystyrene is used, which are laid between the rafters. The first version of the material is more preferable due to the absence of the need to fit it in size and the use of additional fasteners.

3. If there is a cold attic in the garage, you can line the floor with rolled glass wool. Such thermal insulation will be not only reliable, but also budgetary. The main thing is to provide good ventilation in the attic to remove accumulated moisture.

There is another option for such work. It provides insulation from the inside. In this case, it is recommended to use mineral wool or polymer rigid boards. Such a solution leads to the creation of a solid rigid contour that does not have gaps, as well as cold bridges. However, in this case, it will be necessary to lay an additional waterproofing layer on top and create a vapor barrier from the side of the room to cut off moist air.

After the technology for warming the interior of the garage has been finally chosen, it will be necessary to determine the appropriate material for the work. What can he be?

Expanded polystyrene and foam

These two heaters are considered related. The differences between them are in some of their characteristics, as well as the price. At the same time, the technology for the production of work with both polymers remains unchanged. In the building materials market, there is also such a name for insulation as penoplex. It is a trademark of a Russian manufacturer of extruded polystyrene foam. But it's the same material.

Styrofoam is sold in flat sheets of various thicknesses. That is why, to calculate its required amount, you will need to calculate the surface area, adding 10% to the result for waste. Insulation of the garage with polystyrene from the inside is recommended to be done in 2 layers. In this case, the protection of the structure will be more reliable.

The required amount of mounting foam used to seal the seams will directly depend on how tightly the insulation panels are laid, and on the number of resulting edges. It should also be noted that such a composition is suitable for correcting inaccuracies after laying the insulating layer. That is why you need to buy it a little more than calculated.

Mineral wool

This category includes both cheap fiberglass and basalt slabs. However, it is worth considering that the density of fiberglass is small. In addition, under load, it quickly loses its volume. That is why the insulation of the garage with mineral wool from the inside is used only in cases where it is freely located in a special frame. Basalt slabs are presented in a wider assortment in retail outlets. This material can be used on all surfaces. The main thing is to choose it correctly:

1. If the roof of the garage is insulated from the inside, then light, inexpensive rolls are used with a density of 30 kilograms per cubic meter.

2. When cladding internal walls, mats are used, the weight of which is in the range from 45 to 60 kilograms per cubic meter.

It should be borne in mind that mineral wool insulation is not the cheapest option. However, if the garage is adjacent to a residential building, then for greater fire safety it is necessary to use it.

Just as with the use of foam, the laying of cotton wool should be carried out in two layers. With this in mind, the calculation of the material is also made. In addition to these plates, you will need to buy a waterproofing film with a thickness of 200 microns. You also need a vapor barrier. Their size should be larger than the insulated area, as it will be necessary to overlap 10-15 cm.

Warming the garage from the inside with your own hands using mineral wool does not require the use of fasteners. The plates are simply inserted into a frame made of timber or a metal profile. In this regard, you will need to purchase the necessary material. The length of the beam or profile will be determined by the height of the walls, as well as the length of the roof slopes.

Narrow focus materials

Insulation of the garage from the inside can be done not only with mineral wool or foam. There are other thermal insulation materials on the modern market. However, their use is not so widespread due to the existing shortcomings. Only in some cases the use of these alternative materials is justified:

1. Expanded clay. Do-it-yourself insulation of the garage from the inside using this material can be done by filling it into the inter-wall gaps, as well as for arranging a “warm” floor screed. Expanded clay has high water absorption and good thermal conductivity.

2. Blocks made from foam glass. This thermal insulation material is quite good and at the same time it is resistant to many environmental influences. But it should be borne in mind that such blocks are very expensive. In addition, they are afraid of alkaline solutions based on cement (for example, plaster and glue).

3. Arbolit and fibrolit. These materials have good thermal insulation characteristics, but are more related to construction materials. That is why their use is best provided for at the stage of building a garage.

Tools

How to insulate a garage with your own hands? After purchasing the materials, you will need to prepare the necessary set of tools. Their specific list will directly depend on the heater chosen by the owner. But special attention will have to be paid to cutting tools. For example, it is good to cut mineral wool with a construction knife. But if the garage is insulated from the inside with foam or polystyrene foam, then to give them the right size, the easiest way is to use a home-made "hacksaw" made of steel wire mounted on wooden handles. Of course, a jigsaw can be used in this case. However, the sheets will crumble from it, and the work will go much more slowly.

Insulation of the walls of the garage from the inside should be carried out only after preliminary preparation of the surfaces. For this you will need:

Synthetic brush with hard bristles, and in some cases a cord brush for angle grinders or hand brush;
- a grinder, with which the protruding reinforcement is removed, as well as large protrusions on the main surface;
- a narrow spatula for sealing cracks.

In addition, if work is planned that will make it possible to insulate the walls of the garage from the inside, as well as its floor, ceiling or gate, then for fixing the prepared heat-insulating material it will be necessary:

Construction stapler;
- screwdriver or drill;
- mounting gun or notched trowel for adhesive compositions.

If the insulation layer is provided with laying in the crate, then you will need a tool to make the frame, namely:

Jigsaw for giving the desired size to a wooden beam;
- hacksaw;
- scissors or angle grinders in case of using a metal profile.

Ceiling insulation

After selecting a suitable option for thermal insulation material, it will be necessary to resolve the issue of the technology of work. Do-it-yourself insulation of the garage ceiling from the inside should be done in a way that directly depends on what the ceiling is made of.

For example, if the ceiling is concrete, the garage is insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. There is no need for prior preparation. The boards are glued directly to the concrete ceiling.

How is it done? An adhesive specially produced for this purpose is applied to the surface of the insulation using a comb. After that, the plates are pressed against the ceiling and held in this way for some time. The seams are also sealed with the same adhesive composition.

However, insulating the garage with polystyrene foam from the inside will require additional fixing of the material. For this purpose, plastic dowel-umbrellas with a wide hat are used. Each slab must have at least five of these fasteners - one at each edge and in the center. If a more rigid extruded polystyrene foam is chosen as the material for insulation, then two dowels per slab will suffice. Such insulation ends with plastering.

Before the solution is applied to the surface, it should be reinforced with a reinforcing fiberglass mesh fixed to the adhesive.

There is also a second way to install insulation on the ceiling. It is more time-consuming and costly, and will also require pre-assembly of a frame made of timber or a galvanized profile.

How are these jobs done? They include several steps:

1. Marking the surface for attaching a profile or beam.

2. Drilling holes for fasteners and fixing the base of the crate parts to the ceiling.

3. Laying foam or mineral wool between the beams or profile, supporting them from below with a jumper.

4. Finishing with plastic panels.

It should be borne in mind that the first of these two methods of insulation is preferable, since it is simpler and is able to provide better thermal insulation without compromising the integrity of the ceiling by drilling.

Wall insulation

These works are performed in the following order. The first step is surface preparation. To do this, the wall is cleaned and a frame is made using standard guides and profiles.

The last facing layer in this case will be drywall. Asbestos fiber can also be used for sheathing the walls of the garage. Moreover, this option is preferable to drywall, as it has a higher fire resistance. However, when the walls of the garage are insulated from the inside with their own hands using asbestos fiber, it should be noted that this material is quite fragile, which will require the frame to be stepped more often.

For such work, as a rule, use cotton wool heaters. Working with foam plastic is more laborious.

Mineral and glass wool are inserted into the middle of the manufactured partitions. Further, the material is attached to the walls with special fasteners. At the next stage, a vapor barrier is laid on top of the crate. For the production of such works, it is recommended to use a membrane that is laid end-to-end to the heat-insulating wool.

Insulation of a metal garage

Such structures have the lowest thermal conductivity. That is why many owners carry out the insulation of a metal garage from the inside. The most effective method in this case is the application of foamed polyurethane, which is a liquid thermal insulation. Insulation paints are also used.

Liquid foam is a foamy mass produced directly at the work site. For this, special equipment in the form of foam generators is used. The material applied to the walls of the garage hardens and turns into a solid surface with excellent adhesion.

But the easiest and most inexpensive way to insulate the walls of a metal garage is to attach foam plates to glue. Before carrying out these works, it is important to thoroughly clean and then degrease the iron surface. This will allow the sheets of thermal insulation material to quickly adhere and then hold securely. There are inevitably gaps between the foam plates. They must be carefully covered with mounting foam. At the end of the work performed, the surface of the insulation can be painted. It should be borne in mind that the above materials are very flammable, and in the event of a fire, many toxic elements are released.

Gate insulation

It is not enough to cover only the walls and ceiling with heat-insulating material in the garage. When planning work, you should pay attention to the gate. They are very large, which leads to the loss of a considerable amount of heat through them. from the inside with your own hands is necessary because otherwise it will be quite difficult to heat the structure.

At the initial stage, a small door is made in one of the gate leaves. This will allow you not to constantly open the gate, which will also save heat. A curtain made of dense fabric or plastic can be fixed between the opening doors and the room. Such a device will also keep the heat in the room. In this case, it is recommended to take transparent plastic, which will allow the driver leaving the garage to navigate well. For this, a thick plastic film, more than 0.8 mm thick, is suitable. The material is cut into strips. Their length should be almost equal to the height of the room, not reaching the floor by one centimeter. The width of such strips is 20-30 cm. If the film is cut narrower, then it will cling to the exterior mirrors and other protruding parts of the car. It will be very inconvenient.

To fasten the strips to the ceiling, a wooden lath is nailed. And then you need a stapler. With it, the strips are attached to the rail with an overlap of 1.5-2 cm or a little more. Under the weight of its weight, the film should hang evenly, and after deflection, return to its place again.

It is recommended to insulate the panels of garage doors with polystyrene foam. To carry out the work, you will need to make a crate. At the next stage, all its gaps are filled with heat-insulating material. In order to prevent the penetration of cold air masses into the garage, the gaps that form at the junction of the gate should be treated with adhesive tape.

Elimination of drafts becomes possible with the use of rubber seals.
Condensation begins to form on the door leafs after insulation, in places where the insulation and metal come into contact. In this regard, the drop-down sashes are covered with anti-corrosion protection. Frame parts should also be primed. This will protect them from fungus and warping. For this, heated drying oil is used. The foam layer located on the gate is covered with a durable material. Such sheathing can be made of thin board or OSB. The use of moisture resistant material is not recommended.

Above, the nuances of the selection and further self-installation of heaters in the garage were considered. The described technologies are optimal for most owners of such structures, since they do not require significant financial investments and allow solving the problem. The main thing that is required in this case is compliance with the instructions and the prevention of gaps and cracks in the heat-insulating layer. This is the only way to eliminate the penetration of cold air into the garage and ensure a normal temperature regime in it, which will delight the owners of the building not only in winter, but also in summer.

Garage insulation is a kind of guarantee of a long life of your car. Sudden temperature fluctuations lead to the formation of condensate, which violates the anti-corrosion protection of the metal and thus causes significant damage to the car. To achieve optimal performance, you just need to insulate the garage and worry about heating it. Today we will talk about the materials and options for insulating the garage and how to insulate the garage with your own hands.

The need to insulate the walls of the garage

The walls of the garage, as a rule, are made relatively thin: when using a cinder block - about 200 millimeters, for brick walls - 250 millimeters, and sometimes 120 millimeters. Of course, such a wall cannot become a serious protection against cold air. And heating a metal garage is generally meaningless. No matter how you drown, in severe frost, only condensation will appear on the wall, and then, when using a very powerful heater.

The question of the need to insulate the garage is not subject to discussion. However, one should not overdo it here. Many car owners believe that in winter, inside the shelter for the car, the temperature should be maintained at close to twenty degrees above zero, because these are the indicators that are usually observed in residential buildings. However, what is comfortable for the driver can be detrimental to the condition of the car.

Remember that high temperatures for iron aggregates are not at all useful! The car, getting from frost to warmth, quickly becomes covered with condensate, and such moisture will gradually lead to the destruction of the car body and the appearance of rust. Therefore, thoughtless insulation of the garage will not only not bring benefits to the car, but only great harm.

It is necessary to insulate the room so that the car is stored at positive temperatures, and at the same time the temperature difference in the garage and outside the windows is minimal. The optimal atmosphere for the safety of the car is considered to be plus five degrees. This temperature will be comfortable for the car. And if the driver is cold, then you can sometimes use the heater.

When planning the insulation of walls in the garage, motorists make another mistake. They close up all, without exception, holes through which cold air can seep. Often, within the framework of such insulation, ventilation holes are also clogged, which absolutely cannot be blocked.

The combustion products of engine fuel will constantly accumulate in the garage. Carbon monoxide is dangerous to humans. Therefore, it is important to provide ventilation or exhaust so that harmful compounds can leave the room. Without ventilation, you will also not be able to get rid of excess moisture. And in winter, a lot of ice and snow accumulate on the bottom and wheels of the car, which quickly melt.

Another important indicator is thermal inertia, which determines the rate at which the surface temperature of a structure changes over time. It is desirable to equip the garage insulation in such a way that the thermal inertia of the enclosing structure increases from the outside to the inside, and the thermal conductivity of the heat-insulating materials that make up this structure, on the contrary, decreases. Insulation with such a scheme "will not let" cold air into the shelter in winter, and heat in summer.

When insulating the walls of the garage, the question arises - to insulate from the inside or outside. Many will initially answer you that you need to fix the heat-insulating material from the outside, since it takes up a certain space from the inside. However, the choice should not be limited to one space. There are several other arguments in favor of external insulation.

There are always risks of freezing of walls in winter with internal thermal insulation. No matter how expensive the insulation you buy, it will still emit harmful fumes into the room. Therefore, it is better to fix the insulation from the outside. Well, if you decide to insulate the basement and garage from the inside, then do not buy cheap thermal insulation materials and be sure to provide good forced ventilation.

Garage wall insulation materials

There are many options on the market for thermal insulation materials that are suitable for garage insulation - from traditional and well-known to ultra-modern. Let's look at the main ones.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool helps to qualitatively insulate the walls of the garage, without disturbing the natural "breathing" inside the room. For external insulation with mineral wool, it is customary to use rigid mats that have a density of 200-240 kilograms per cubic meter, and for internal thermal insulation - soft and semi-rigid mats with a density of about 120-180 kilograms per cubic meter.

Basalt mineral wool is considered the best, which demonstrates record thermal conductivity and sound absorption. However, remember that for insulation with mineral wool from the inside, the heat-insulating material should be protected with a vapor barrier so that the insulation from the environment does not pick up moisture and subsequently lose its abilities.

glass wool

Glass wool is cheaper than mineral wool, by about 20-25%. However, it is necessary to work with it only in special gloves, because the fibers are very sharp and hard, and you can injure your hands and eyes. In addition, if water gets on the material during installation, then you can safely throw it away, since it will not work out to dry.

After wetting, the fibers become heavy and crumple, losing their heat-insulating qualities forever and releasing a constantly unpleasant odor. Therefore, the glass wool insulation cake will have to be completely insulated with foil or films.

Styrofoam

This polymer heat insulator is a favorite heat-insulating material that is used when insulating a garage with your own hands, as it is convenient and easy to install, has a low weight, can be processed with an ordinary hacksaw, is not afraid of moisture, does not rot and is affordable. The most popular type of foam is polystyrene foam, because it is vapor and waterproof, and its useful life reaches 40 years.

However, foam plastic also has its drawbacks - it is not able to pass air and is considered a combustible material, therefore it is recommended to choose a self-extinguishing PSB-S, which goes out after neutralizing the fire source within 4 seconds. And, regardless of the fact that he is not afraid of either chemistry or water, he is still afraid of the sun - the foam turns yellow and crumbles under its influence.

Reflective thermal insulation

Reflective thermal insulation is the latest development in the energy saving environment. It is made in the form of a rolled material, which is covered on one side with a layer of foamed polyurethane foam, and on the other - with polished foil. This type of insulation is recognized as the best solution for internal garage insulation in terms of saving usable space. The thickness of the insulation is minimal - 2-5 millimeters.

This also allows you to create a facing layer, in contrast to the use of traditional heat-insulating materials, the minimum thickness of which is 50 millimeters. With the addition of internal, facing and decorative layers, it runs to the total amount minus 10-15 centimeters. However, you will be disappointed that ultra-thin reflective thermal insulation acts as a "mirror" to reflect infrared heat radiation. It is ineffective with its convection and induction, which are the main culprits of the greatest heat loss.

"Warm" plaster

This is a plaster of an unusual composition, which contains special fillers, such as expanded vermiculite, sawdust and expanded polystyrene "balls", which give it thermal insulation properties. However, to get a really serious warm effect, you need to apply a very thick and heavy layer of plaster on the walls of the garage, so it should be combined with other types of insulation, as shown in the photo of the garage insulation.

Thermal insulation paint

Those car owners who value not only comfort, but also an attractive appearance, are suitable for liquid heat insulators made from acrylic polymers with the addition of synthetic rubber and organic pigments. In appearance, such a substance resembles ordinary paint, which has amazing thermal insulation properties: a layer of thermal insulation paint of 1 millimeter replaces 50 millimeters of mineral wool.

Thermal insulation paints show good adhesion to metal, plastic and wood. Therefore, warm paints are considered an ideal solution for insulating a garage from a bar, because the heat insulator is able to create a vapor-permeable coating and allows the wall to "breathe", eliminating waterlogging of the inside of the structure and protecting the garage from the damaging effects of moisture. The technology for applying such a heat insulator is simplified as much as possible.

Insulation of garage walls from the outside

Let's start the insulation of the garage from the walls. Styrofoam is excellent for insulating brick walls in terms of quality / price ratio. Only, in places where high temperatures are possible (equipment or heating stoves), mineral wool boards should be used instead of fusible plastic.

With external insulation of the walls of the garage with polystyrene foam, you can avoid the contact of the temperature difference in winter, which leads to the appearance of moisture at the junction of the insulation with the surface. Therefore, to eliminate this effect when the walls are insulated with foam, it is necessary to equip the room with forced ventilation, ensuring its continuous operation.

To begin with, it is worth preparing the surface for attaching the foam. The walls should be pre-cleaned of dirt, old plaster, oil stains and dust, and deep cracks and chips should be covered with plaster. So that the insulation of the garage does not bring any problems in the future, the base must be strong and clean. It is also desirable to prime the surface of the walls to increase adhesion with glue.

To insulate the shelter, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam, which has a 25th strength and a thickness of 5 centimeters. The solution can be applied to the sheet using the “blot” method, then pressed tightly against the wall. However, spot application from the worker requires some skill. Therefore, the "slab" method of applying glue should be used in order to eliminate the occurrence of the smallest gaps between the surface and the slab. In this case, the solution is applied to the foam using a notched trowel.

When insulating a brick garage, foam sheets should be laid in a checkerboard pattern, pressing them well together. The wall is covered with foam sheets from the bottom up. It is necessary to lay the first row on the initial bar attached to the surface with dowels. After the glue dries, each element of the masonry is usually additionally fixed with three plastic dowels.

Styrofoam by its nature is characterized by low strength. And the structure of heaters, which are made on the basis of various kinds of fibers, makes them also susceptible to saturation with water, which significantly reduces the heat-shielding properties of the heat-insulating material. All this requires the creation of additional protection of thermal "armor".

It is advisable to protect the insulation with a layer of plaster reinforced for strength with a fiberglass mesh. To install the mesh panel, the surface of the foam must be covered with glue of 3-5 millimeters. After that, the mesh is pressed in strips and overlapped into the adhesive and completely covered with adhesive. For the purpose of plastering, decorative facade plaster is used.

After that, the surface is primed to "preserve" the porous surface and covered in several layers with facade paint. Siding and other facing materials are also suitable for external protection - moisture-resistant DSP and GKL, gypsum-fiber sheets, various plastics. If you prefer sheet materials, then remember that they must be fastened using a frame.

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside

Warming the walls of the garage from the inside is rarely used, but if you have chosen this particular method of thermal insulation of the walls, then it should be carried out in that order. The first step is to prepare the surface by cleaning the wall. With the help of drywall, you need to make a false partition, and you will put a heat insulator into its frame.

To create such a frame, standard UD guides and wall CD profiles are used. UD racks are fastened with dowels to the ceiling and floor in increments of 25-30 centimeters. Then, CD profiles are installed every 60 centimeters with the help of special suspensions that are mounted in the wall with a step of 30 centimeters, to which drywall will need to be attached - the last facing layer.

You can also use not only drywall, but also asbestos fiber for sheathing the walls of the garage. The latter option is preferable, since such sheets have increased fire resistance compared to drywall. However, asbestos fiber is more fragile, so you need to take a step near the frame more often. Place the selected insulation between the wall and the sheathing.

Usually, cotton wool insulation is used for internal insulation of garage walls, since there will be more trouble with polystyrene. In the middle of the partitions, you need to insert mineral or glass wool, attaching it to the surface with special hooks. Then a vapor barrier must be laid over the profiles. To do this, it is better to take a membrane, which should be laid end-to-end with a cotton wool insulation.

From the outside, it is recommended to plaster the “box” of the garage with “warm” plaster or cover it with heat-insulating paint. So you can move the dew point to the outside of the walls, which will protect them from future moisture and freezing. It is also necessary to equip forced ventilation, designed for an intensive level of air exchange.

An effective method of insulating an iron garage from the inside is to apply liquid thermal insulation - foamed polyurethane or liquid paint-insulators. For example, you can buy isolate, thermos paint and others. Liquid foam is a foamy mass, which is made directly at the construction site through the use of special equipment - foam generators. Such foam, when applied to the walls of the garage, turns into a hard crust, which has excellent adhesion.

The simplest and most inexpensive way to insulate the walls of an iron garage is to attach foam plates to glue. The main thing at the same time is to clean and degrease the metal surface well so that the sheets of heat-insulating material stick and hold securely. The gaps that remain between the sheets are carefully blown out with mounting foam. The surface of the insulation can then be painted. However, remember that these materials are highly flammable and, when ignited, release many toxic substances into the air.

Garage door insulation

When insulating the walls of the garage, pay attention to the gate, because they are large, and through them the shelter loses a lot of heat. If the gate is not insulated, it will be quite difficult to heat the garage. To begin with, it is worth making a small door in one leaf so as not to open a huge gate every time. Next to the gate, you can hang a curtain made of plastic or dense fabric, which is able to keep some of the heat in the room.

It is better to take transparent plastic for this, so that the driver can see where he is going when leaving the garage. It is recommended to use a thick (minimum 0.8 mm) polyethylene film. Cut the material into strips of such length that, when fastened over the doorway from the inside, they do not reach a centimeter to the floor. The width of the strips should be close to 20-30 centimeters.

Unnecessarily narrow stripes can cling to protruding parts of the car, for example, outside mirrors, wide ones will be uncomfortable. Attach the strips with a stapler on a wooden rail so that one strip overlaps another 1.5-2 centimeters, or a little more. The strips should hang evenly under their own weight, and when deflected, they should quickly return to their place.

Garage door panels are best insulated with foam. Warming, as already mentioned, is desirable to carry out from the outside, but for the gate it will be problematic to do so. On the inside, it is necessary to attach the crate, then fill with foam all the gaps in it. In order to prevent the entry of low-temperature air masses into the room through the gaps that are formed at the junction of the gate, it should be treated with adhesive tape.

To eliminate drafts, you can use rubber seals. Since the insulation from the inside of the garage door causes condensation to form at the points of contact between the metal and the insulation, the canvases must be covered with anti-corrosion protection. Having made the waterproofing of the gate, you need to attach a frame to them, which will act as the basis for the sheathing.

At the same time, prime the frame parts to protect them from warping and fungus, for which heated drying oil is suitable, and clean the foam layer, covering it with a durable material. Sheathing is recommended to be done with a thin board or OSB. It is not recommended to use moisture resistant materials, for example, GKL.

Garage roof insulation

If the garage is built separately from the house, you will have to insulate all its structures, and not just the walls, including the roof. After all, heated air is lighter than cold air and rises, penetrating through building structures and melting snow on the roof. The method of fastening foam sheets depends on the design of the floor. If the roof is made of boards, then it is worth “grabbing” the material with “umbrella” dowels or ordinary nails, and then closing it with sheet materials, attaching them to the plank base with long screws.

If the garage is covered with a concrete slab, to insulate the concrete garage from the inside, or rather its roof, you will need a frame that is attached to the slabs using metal corners and self-tapping screws that are screwed into plastic dowels. The foam must be laid along the frame, securing it with adhesive tape, and then pressing it with a sheathing that is attached to the frame.

The foam plastic does not let moisture through, so it makes no sense to perform its vapor and waterproofing. But when using fiber insulation, additional measures are required related to protection from moisture. On the side of the roof, waterproofing must be laid, and on the side of the garage - vapor barrier, which prevents the penetration of moisture in the form of steam.

If desired, additional antiseptic and decorative treatment can be performed: paint the plaster with lime, chalk or water-based compositions, coat DSP and GKL with oil or acrylic paints, having previously sealed the seams with putty.

Ceiling insulation in a shelter for a car can be done according to a different scheme. Create for this and insulate the ceiling so that an attic appears in the garage. The floor of the attic is fixed on wooden beams. On the boards, a crate is created for the insulation boards, then the heat-insulating material is laid. In conclusion, boards are placed on top of the structure so that you can move around the attic.

It is not always necessary to insulate the floor in the garage. Often they arrange a basement under the garage for storing canned goods and vegetables. If there is no cellar, then it is necessary to isolate the room from frozen and wet soil. To do this, deepen the floor by 30 centimeters, level it, then fill it with crushed stone by 10 centimeters, equip a sand cushion of 5 centimeters on top, tamp it down, pour it with hot bitumen and make a concrete screed, which is reinforced with an iron mesh.

Self-insulation of the garage from the inside makes it possible at an affordable cost to provide optimal conditions for year-round storage of the car.

In order for your car to feel comfortable in the garage in the winter, you need to create special conditions for it. In the cold season, the temperature in the caravan should be around + 5 °. It is not necessary to heat the garage to higher values, as there is a risk that the vehicle will be covered with "sweat" when frosty air enters from the street, which can cause rusting of various parts of the car.

In addition, care should be taken to ensure that there is sufficient fresh air flow into the house for the car. In one hour, the vehicle must be blown about 180 cubic meters of air. These two requirements must be taken into account when deciding to do the insulation of a metal or any other caravan with your own hands.

Currently, the thermal insulation of the garage can be made by different materials, which are characterized by their own thermal conductivity. This should also be taken into account. Next, we give the values ​​\u200b\u200b(in W / m * K) of the thermal conductivity of popular materials, with the help of which they perform insulation with their own hands:

• 0.038 - mineral wool and expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• 0.043 - glass wool;
• 0.171 - expanded clay;
• 0.28 - foam concrete;
• 0.52 - ceramic brick;
• 0.64 - cinder block.

Garage insulation materials

The maximum thermal conductivity (0.9) is characterized by silicate brick.

The lower the thermal conductivity of the material, the higher the thermal insulation characteristics it has. This means that it is more reasonable to insulate the garage from the inside with polystyrene foam than with bricks or cinder blocks.

Thermal inertia is also of considerable importance. This concept means the rate of increase in temperature on the surface of a particular insulation. In simple words, we can say that the wall will heat up the longer, the higher the thermal inertia index of the material.

If you plan to insulate the building where your car is stored in winter with your own hands, experts advise adhering to the general rule. It says: from the inside, the walls protect from the cold so that the thermal inertia of the materials increases (from the outside to the inside), and the thermal conductivity decreases. It is enough to follow this principle, and then your garage will become a safe haven for the vehicle.

Motorists usually carry out warming with their own hands using mineral wool, polymer and fiberglass products. They are relatively easy to install, have good performance and are affordable, which makes it possible to make garage insulation cheap and with a guarantee of quality.

Mineral wool has been used for a very long time. It has proven its effectiveness in thermal insulation of motorhomes. But lately it has been used less and less. There are several reasons here:

1. Relatively high material cost.
2. Increased sensitivity of mineral wool to the influence of moisture (it is mandatory to make waterproofing, and this, as you understand, increases the cost of insulating the garage).

Mineral wool

Glass wool is cheaper. But this material has even more “cons”. It belongs to the group of flammable products, and is also afraid of high humidity. Therefore, there are few people who want to use glass wool.

The most popular insulating material today is considered to be foam. His shortcomings are almost completely absent. It does not allow moisture to pass through and is characterized by excellent thermal insulation performance, does not rot, and fungus never appears on its surface. For the price, the foam is more than "democratic". And any motorist can mount it with his own hands from inside the caravan.

The only disadvantage of polystyrene can be considered its flammability. But this problem has now faded into the background. Modern manufacturers produce polystyrene foam, which is processed at the factory with a fire retardant. This substance extinguishes the material immediately after it ignites.

Consider how to protect the walls of the garage from the cold with foam. It's easy to do this:

1. We make a crate from wooden boards measuring 3x3 or 2x2 cm. They should be mounted around the perimeter of the wall, maintaining a step of at least 0.8 m.
2. We glue the foam to the crate made (this will be the first layer of insulation on the walls).
3. We mount another layer of heat insulator. Moreover, the second layer is fixed so that the connecting seams of the layers do not match (that is, in a checkerboard pattern). It has been proven that such a scheme provides maximum protection of the garage and car from cold air.

You have insulated the walls of the motorhome from the inside, spending a minimum of time and money. You can also decorate them with inexpensive material - ordinary clapboard or plywood sheets.

Decorating garage walls with clapboard

Having protected the walls from cold air, we can proceed to the thermal insulation of the garage door. Welded structures are usually mounted on a metal or any other motorhome. Such gates are made of thin steel (maximum 3 mm), which cannot guarantee a decent level of building insulation.

It is not difficult to insulate the entrance to the garage with your own hands. The procedure is performed in much the same way as wall insulation - using foam. It must be glued with the highest quality and tightness - an air gap cannot be allowed to appear (use the same adhesive that you used when insulating the walls of the garage).

Now we need to make a frame of wood (we will later mount the garage sheathing on it). Such a skeleton is made from wooden bars 6x6 cm. Be sure to use the building level when doing this work. We will install boards of small thickness on the frame and close the gate with this design. They can be painted with the usual "water emulsion" or come up with another decoration option.

If you were able to insulate the gates and walls with your own hands, you should not have any difficulties with the thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside. It is important to know a few things here.

The roof and ceiling in the garage are the same structure. If your caravan is made of foam blocks or bricks, its roof is usually made of a floor slab (reinforced concrete). In a metal garage, the ceiling is made in the form of a "skeleton" of steel corners, to which iron sheets are attached. But in frame houses for cars, the ceiling is made on timber beams.

Caravan ceiling on wood beams

There are two ways to insulate all these types of ceiling structures:

1. Create a false ceiling and fill the space between it and the base roof with thermal insulation material.
2. Attach the insulation directly to the ceiling using the method recommended for the particular insulating material.

If you want to use foam, glue it with liquid nails to the roof of a metal or wooden garage, mount the rails and cover the thermal insulation layer with any lightweight material. Plywood is best suited for these purposes. It is attached to the guides.

When it is required to insulate the ceiling from floor slabs with your own hands, the skeleton is mounted on metal corners. Adhesives will not help here. Please note - you will need to fix the corners on the screws, which are previously placed in plastic dowels.

Most often, floors in car storage boxes are made of concrete. They are thermally insulated before pouring the concrete mixture. The order of work is as follows:

1. Tamp down the earth cover.
2. Make a pillow of sand (about 10 cm thick is sufficient) and ram it.
3. Pour a 10-centimeter layer of concrete screed and dry it.
4. Pour river fine sand or expanded clay mixed with cement and water onto the screed. Expanded clay or sand just perform the function of a warming material.
5. Dry the heat-insulating layer made for a week, and then pour the finishing concrete floor.

Thermal insulation of floors before pouring concrete mix

It only remains for us to add that the concrete flooring with insulation can be used one month after all the described procedures have been completed. That's when it becomes really strong.