Do-it-yourself self-leveling epoxy floors - description, cost and technology of the device. Epoxy self-leveling floors, cost and work plan Do-it-yourself epoxy self-leveling floor

Self-leveling floors have firmly established themselves in the construction market, which is not surprising - strength is precisely one of the advantages of self-leveling compounds. Epoxy self-leveling floor is also very attractive and practical, and the technology of creating such a coating can be mastered by everyone who is interested.

At the heart of self-leveling epoxy floors are two components: epoxy resin and hardener. Therefore, the epoxy self-leveling floor is called - two-component. However, in the composition you can find a lot of additives. So, latex and casein, which are stabilizing substances, improve resistance to mechanical damage, which by the way is very useful for epoxy compounds - excessive fragility is considered their Achilles' heel.

Sodium nitrite helps the composition to endure large temperature changes, which is important for industrial premises or laboratories. However, it is better not to use an epoxy coating to create - although the manufacturers claim the coating is safe, however, an unpleasant and very suspicious smell is emitted when the floor is heated. Under normal conditions, you really don’t have to worry about security.

There is no need to add water-repellent components to the composition.- epoxy-based self-leveling floor itself copes with this perfectly. To give color, you can use various colors, mainly of inorganic origin. The main condition for such pigmentation is that it does not wash out over time and does not lose its brightness. The painted structure can be used as a finishing floor covering.

Much less often, diamond or other mineral chips are added to the composition to give decorativeness, but such a step gives rise to a lot of problems - the floor will have to be polished for a long time, and one cannot do without serious equipment. It is better to cover the frozen floor with a decorative film.

You will also find epoxy-polyurethane mixture on the market. This middle option between epoxy and polyurethane floors combines their best qualities - strength, elasticity, durability. Such a mixture tolerates mechanical shocks better, has less brittleness, so that it can be used as a bulk or warehouse.

The advantages of epoxy flooring formulations mostly apply to pourable mixes in general. However, the disadvantages that will be listed apply only to the epoxy self-leveling floor.

So the benefits:

Seamless coating technology - polymer epoxy self-leveling floor has a perfectly smooth and glossy surface. By the way, the degree of gloss can be reduced with the help of special additives. The absence of seams not only protects against moisture penetration, but also prevents the accumulation of dirt, the development of colonies of microorganisms and bacteria. That is why epoxy floors are so valued in medical facilities.
High dirt-repellent properties - the epoxy floor is really easy to wash out from everyday dirt, and there will be no problems with difficult dirt.
Chemical resistance - alkalis and acids are not able to harm such a coating even at high concentrations. Industrial polymeric epoxy self-leveling floors can often be found in pharmaceutical plants., warehouses for storage of chemical reagents.
Safety - when pouring floors based on epoxy resins, the degree of roughness can be adjusted, achieving non-slip even in the presence of oil stains. Epoxy resin does not support combustion.
Long service life - epoxy floors have a service life of more than 20 years (by the way, this is not the limit for floor coverings, but also a lot), they are not threatened by exposure to ultraviolet radiation, they are resistant to abrasion.
Optimal cost - for a family budget and an inexpensive, but durable repair, this flooring option is the best fit.

Of the shortcomings, it is important to mention the following:

Brittleness - Epoxy floors are very hard and very brittle. From impacts, the surface may become covered with cracks and chips.
Loss of decorativeness - nevertheless, scratches will spoil the decorative glossy look of the floor over time. That is why it is more practical to make matte surfaces.
Self-leveling floors are mostly difficult to remove from the surface - this rule also applies to epoxy floors. There can be no talk of re-laying the coating, it can only be thrown into a landfill.

Epoxy self-leveling floors allow you to create a high-quality and perfectly even floor covering with your own hands. This does not require any special skills or special equipment. And the process itself will not seem extremely tedious to you.

How to make an epoxy self-leveling floor with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Prepare the base

The first step is to prepare the base - the smoother it is, the less material consumption and the better the result. To begin with, carry out a comprehensive cleaning of debris, oil stains, traces of paint. Various solvents, which are in abundance in every building materials store, will help you speed up the process.

Chips, cracks and irregularities must be leveled with putty, or if there are too large irregularities, first fill in a rough leveling self-leveling floor, which in one fell swoop will eliminate the irregularities and create an ideal base for the final pour.
On average, epoxy resin-based compounds dry in 7 hours, but it takes several days for complete polymerization. Therefore, do not rush to arrange furniture or household appliances. If you want to prolong the visual appeal and gloss of the flooring, use a special epoxy paint. It protects the floor from mechanical damage, besides it is easy to update it for the next repair.

In the manufacture of epoxy self-leveling floors are used:

Epoxy primer
Epoxy putty for sealing surface defects (ratio of components on the package).
Epoxy self-leveling floor (ratio of components on the package).

The sequence of applying the compositions of the epoxy self-leveling floor

concrete base
Primer layer
Filling surface defects
Subfloor underlayment
The front layer of self-leveling epoxy floor
Decorative chips (if required)
final varnish layer

Requirements for the implementation of self-leveling floors

Basic requirements for the technology of self-leveling floors

The concrete floor (floor sub-base) must meet the requirements described in Sub-base Requirements.
The temperature of the base of the floor and the air temperature should be between +5°C and up to 25°C.
Material temperature - from +15°С to +20°С.
At the time of laying the floor and the next day after it, the air humidity should not exceed more than 80%.
The air-subfloor temperature is at least 3°C above the "Dew Point".
Temperature of storage and transportation of materials - from -30°С to +30°С.
Humidity of warping - no more than 4 mass.%.

The times indicated below for priming, puttying, underlayment and face coat are indicated depending on the temperature of the floor.

Requirements for equipment and tools

A mandatory requirement when using a tool is the absence of lubricants on their working surface. This is so important because the ingress of grease on the base can cause the formation of defects on the surface of the self-leveling floor. That is why it is better to soak the tool in a solvent (xylene, solvent) for 4-6 hours, then carefully remove the grease.

For preliminary priming of the layers, it is necessary to use sintipon medium-haired rollers (pile length 12-14 mm). Upon completion of the application of the layer, the roller, for further use, can be immersed in a solvent to prevent polymerization.

Steel spatulas up to 600 mm wide are used for applying the putty and the underlying layer. At the same time, the spatula must also be clean and have a smooth edge so that the entire plane can adhere to the concrete base. The formation of cracks between the spatula and the concrete base is unacceptable. Otherwise, the tool must be replaced.

To evenly distribute the composition in the front layer, a squeegee is used, which must be clean, and all mustaches are set equally on the caliper according to the design thickness of the front layer.

To remove air from the front layer of the coating, as well as to distribute the material over the surface, a spiked (rotary, aeration) roller should be used. It is advisable to use a new roller for these purposes or a roller that is sufficiently clean, i.e. without traces of the composition, moisture, solvents, detergents, lubricants, etc. At the same time, all segments should be easily movable and could touch the surface. If this is not possible, then it is better to use a needle roller of a smaller width.

Soles for a self-leveling floor - soles which are used for movement on liquid material at all stages of production of works. The soles must also be clean and dry, and firmly fixed on the feet.

Mixer and mixer
A mixer for mixing materials must meet this purpose, while having the function of changing speed, reverse, and have a power of at least 1.5 kW. The optimum speed depends on the type of mixer used and the temperature of the floor when mixing. Double helical belt mixers are well suited for such purposes.

Mixer speed is approximately 400-600 rpm. In this case, the mixer should be immersed in the container to the full depth of the tata in order to create movement of the entire volume of material.

The use of an industrial vacuum cleaner is due to the need to remove dust from the base before priming and after sanding the putty layer. For these purposes, it is better to use only specialized equipment that is properly configured.

Foundation Requirements

The first and main requirement when creating self-leveling floors is a flat surface of the concrete floor. It is allowed to deviate the base from the horizontal plane over a length of 2 m no more than 2 mm. In this case, the base must be made of concrete and have a strength of at least M200, and also correspond to the expected load intensity.

The building must be waterproofed from groundwater.

If the concrete base is new, then it must stand, i.e. gain its branded strength, residual moisture content is not more than 4 mass%.

If the concrete base is not new (was in operation), then it should not contain foreign traces (stains of machine oil, animal and vegetable fats, etc.).

To check the residual moisture of the base, use a 1x1 m polyethylene film attached to the concrete base with a masking tape. In this state, the film is left for one day. If, after their expiration, condensate forms on the inner surface of the film, and the base under the film changes color, then it is FORBIDDEN to install a self-leveling floor.

If the surface of the base deviates (according to the requirements) from the plane, or there are impurities on it, then these defects must be eliminated - the surface should be leveled and / or cleaned.

In extreme cases, it is better to fill a new screed.

Preparation of self-leveling floor materials

The preparation of self-leveling floor materials begins with the organization of a place for mixing the compositions. Usually for these purposes:

Separate "working hands" are used - workers who do not leave the "dirty zone" during the entire period of pouring the floor. If they are not available, then when leaving this room, workers should be provided with separate replacement shoes.
In a dedicated area ("dirty area"), a double polyethylene film is used.
Pay special attention to the presence of individual components on the outer surface of the container.

In other words, when organizing a place for mixing compositions, the main task is to prevent the components of the composition from getting on the surface of the concrete base. If this is not observed, then swelling and delamination of the coating may form at the points of contact with foreign components.

Technology for the preparation of epoxy primer
Epoxy primer is performed similarly to a self-leveling floor, with the only difference that component "A" is not pre-mixed.

After mixing, the epoxy primer should be worked out within:

at 10°C - 1 hour;
at 20°C - 40 min;
at 25°С - 30 min.

The sequence of preparation of the self-leveling floor

Open the container with component "A" and lower the mixer so that it almost touches the bottom of the container.
Turn on the mixer and set the speed necessary for thorough mixing of the composition (approximately 400-600 rpm.).
Switch the mixer to the reverse mode and carefully, against the movement of the component, stir component "A" near the bottom and walls of the container (container).
Mix component "A" by volume using forward and reverse rotation for 3 minutes.
Without interrupting mixing, pour in component "B". After the complete pouring of component "B", we continue to mix the components thoroughly for 2 minutes. At the same time, we do not forget about hard-to-reach places - the bottom and walls of the container.
After mixing components "A" and "B", the resulting mixture must be defended for 3 minutes. This is done in order to release the entrained air.
Pour the finished and settling composition and spread over the surface.

It should be remembered that the maximum time spent by the self-leveling floor composition in the container should not exceed more than 30 minutes.

Preparation of epoxy putty

Mixing the components of the putty is similar to the preparation of the self-leveling floor.
It is possible to use putty for filling the surface both clean (not diluted), and with the addition of sand to it. However, for these purposes, dry quartz sand without dust is used, the fraction of which is from 0.1 to 1 mm. The proportions of such a putty composition are prepared from a ratio of 1-3 parts by volume to 1 part of epoxy putty.
After mixing the components of the epoxy putty, without interrupting the mixing, add sand to it.
Stirring is continued until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

It should be remembered that the maximum residence time of the mixed epoxy putty in the container should not exceed:

at 10°C - 50 min;
at 20°C - 40 min;
at 25°С - 30 min.

Instead of epoxy putty, for filling the surface, you can use a mixture of self-leveling floor mixed with quartz sand. The mixing technology is similar to that of mixing epoxy putty with sand.

Epoxy screed technology

Preparation of the concrete base

The main task of preparing the concrete base is to open the pores of the concrete. To do this, the base must be cleaned of cement laitance, the upper weakened layer of concrete, dirt, etc. must be removed. In this case, the thickness of the removed layer will depend on the composition and method of laying concrete and range from 1 to 4 mm.

You can clear the base with:

mosaic grinder with corundum or diamond segments;
sandblast cleaning;
chemical milling.

The sludge formed during cleaning must be carefully removed from the surface with scrapers. Then sweep the surface with hard plastic brushes to remove sludge from pits, cavities and other defects in the concrete. If poorly cleaned areas are found, then additional surface treatment is necessary.

After completing the preparation of the base for pouring the coating, it is forbidden to move on it without clean changeable shoes!

Padding

The first layer of soil is applied to the base of the floor after the surface has been completely dedusted. In this case, the maximum interval between dedusting and applying the layer should be no more than one and a half hours.

For priming the surface, ready-made (already mixed) epoxy primer is used, which is poured over the surface with a "snake", after which it is evenly distributed over the entire area with rollers or flat metal spatulas.

The consumption of the applied epoxy primer will depend on the brand of concrete.

Epoxy primer drying time (interlayer exposure) at a temperature of 20°C - from 18 to 24 hours.

As with priming the surface before plastering, if after applying the 1st layer the concrete absorbs unevenly, then the highly absorbent areas of the base must be primed again. If, after applying the 1st layer of primers, glossy areas appear on the surface, then it is necessary to check them for the presence of cement laitance and other contaminants. If any are found, they must be removed, dusted, re-primed.

A second (second, possibly subsequent) layer is applied after polymerization of the 1st layer. During the application of the 2nd layer (protective), fresh soil must be evenly sprinkled with dry quartz sand of a fraction of 0.3-0.6 mm, while its consumption will be 100-150 g / sq. m.

Provided that the whole procedure was carried out technologically correctly, then immediately after the polymerization of the second layer, the entire surface will take the form of a homogeneous rough emery. Passes and dull unsaturated areas are not allowed.

Puttying (if necessary)

After applying primer layers to seal individual defects in the base, the surface is puttyed.

It should be remembered that the polymerization time of epoxy putty:

at 10°C - 24 hours;
at 20°C - 12 hours;
at 25°C - 8 hours.

Underlayment

The purpose of the underlying layer is to completely close the pores of the concrete base. After all, unclosed pores of the surface usually lead to the formation of defects during the installation of the front layer of the self-leveling floor.

Also, the underlying layer serves:

to eliminate minor defects in the surface of the base;
to cover pores in the base up to 0.2 mm in size;
to eliminate the drains of the front layer.

In this case, the layer thickness is 1.2-1.5 mm.

The sequence of operations performed

The pre-mixed epoxy primer is applied to the surface in strips, based on a consumption of 400g/sq.m.
Then it is carefully distributed with metal spatulas over the surface "on a peel". In this case, the formation of puddles and strips of excess material is not allowed.
Further, after 10-20 minutes, the soil is covered with an excess amount (more than 1.5 kg / sq.m.) of dry quartz sand with a fraction of 0.3-0.6 mm.
Performed in flats
- Sliding (shuffling) movement in flat feet is not allowed when filling with sand
- Any movement (with flat feet and without them) on a fresh composition covered with sand is not allowed.
- Underlayment polymerization time:
  - at 10°C - 24 hours;
  - at 20°C - 12 hours;
  - at 25°C - 8 hours.

After polymerization of the underlying layer, it is necessary to remove excess sand with a brush with a hard plastic bristle. Then dust off the surface and seal the surface. For sealing, carefully spread the self-leveling floor over the surface with metal or rubber spatulas "on a peel". Consumption 300-400 g/sq.m.

After polymerization of the sealing layer, carry out a thorough visual inspection of the surface for composition runoff and other defects. If necessary, carry out puttying or abrasive treatment of areas, followed by dust removal.

face layer

It is necessary to predetermine the filling configuration in such a way that the perimeter of the filled grips, throughout the entire filling period, does not exceed the critical value. That is, a fresh batch of material must be docked with the boundary of the previous batch no later than 40 minutes after the start of laying the previous batch.

When planning the fill configuration, it is necessary to remember about the expansion joints, which are the boundaries of the fill grips.

You also need to pre-limit the predicted area to be filled with masking tape. This is done for the convenience of continuing work after a break and marking the map of expansion joints.

The order of operations

We prepare the composition of the self-leveling floor for work.
Apply to the surface in strips, taking into account the design thickness of the front layer.
We evenly distribute the composition over the area of \u200b\u200bthe site with the help of doctor blades.
Not later than after 40 minutes, carefully and evenly roll the composition with a spiked roller to remove entrained air, even out the color and texture of the surface. It is carried out in flat shoes - soles for self-leveling floors.

Sliding (shuffling) movement in flat feet is prohibited.

The minimum consumption required for self-levelling of the face layer depends on the substrate temperature and is:

at a temperature of +25°С - from 1.0 kg/sq.m.;
at a temperature of +5°С - up to 1.8 kg/sq.m.

Maximum working time with self-leveling floor poured onto the surface:

at 10°C - 3 hours;
at 20°C - 1.5 hours;
at 25°C - less than 1 hour.

Maximum polymerization time of the front layer:

at 10°C - 24 hours;
at 20°C - 12 hours;
at 25°C - 8 hours.

It is strongly not recommended to scrape off the remains of a liquid self-leveling floor from the walls of an empty bucket. This is due to the fact that mixing may not be complete on the walls of the container, and the use of poorly mixed material can lead to the formation of blisters on the surface of the bulk coating.

After completing the work on applying the bulk layer and its polymerization, it is necessary to fill all expansion joints with polyurethane sealant according to the instructions of the sealant manufacturer.

Upon completion of pouring the self-leveling floor

It is necessary to wait for the minimum holding time of the self-leveling epoxy floor, which depends on the temperature of the floor. The load can be created after the following time has elapsed:
Pedestrian load - at temperatures (+20°С - 3 days, +15°С - 4 days, +10°С - 6 days);
Full mechanical load - at temperatures (+20°С - 7 days, +15°С - 10 days, +10°С - 14 days).

It should be remembered that when curing, the self-leveling epoxy floor must be open. At the same time, it is not allowed to spill liquids, solutions, paints on it, get plaster, putties, dirt, etc. If this is not observed, then stains, surface turbidity and other defects may form on the self-leveling floors.

Self-leveling floors are floors in which special mixtures are used when installing a screed. With strict adherence to technology when installing such coatings, they should level themselves and the surface will be perfect.

The main components of this type of coating, used mainly for concrete coatings, are epoxy resin and hardener modified with solvents and plasticizers.

Main characteristics

Depending on the purpose, mixtures may contain various coloring pigments and additives.

Epoxy poured coatings have significant advantages:

mechanical strength
wear resistance
Chemical resistance to most substances and UV radiation
Fire safety.

Such surfaces are seamless, safe, have antistatic properties, are aesthetically pleasing, have a sufficiently long service life, which, with proper care, can reach 20 years.

Due to these properties, epoxy floors are used in medical institutions - hospitals, laboratories and industrial premises that are subjected to mechanical stress. They are in cafes, restaurants, offices.

Fill tool

The optimal thickness of the bulk epoxy coating is from 2 to 2.5 mm. The main steps in the installation of bulk coatings are the preparation of tools and the surface, and then the alternate application of the primer, base and finish layers.

Tools used in the installation of self-leveling epoxy coatings:

Syntepon rollers with a pile of 12-14 cm, steel spatulas (width no more than 600 mm) - for applying primer layers, putty and underlayment
Squeegee - to distribute the entire composition in the front layer
Aeration needle roller - to remove air and redistribute the material over the surface
Mixer and mixer - for mixing components
Paint steppers - for moving on the surface

Special conditions for work

Work is carried out at an air temperature in the range of 5-25 degrees, while the temperature of the material itself should be in the range of 15-20 degrees. more than 4%.

A concrete base for high-quality ones must have a strength of at least grade 200 and not deviate from the horizontal surface by more than 2 mm in a segment of 2 meters, not have grease stains and traces of rust. If these shortcomings cannot be eliminated by available means, then it is necessary to make a new concrete screed over the base.

Main technical characteristics

For epoxy poured coatings, two-component materials are mainly used as a primer, putty and finishing layer, and dry quartz sand is used as a filler and to create a sublayer.

The self-leveling epoxy floor does not contain organic solvents
After mixing the components, the solution retains its "working" properties for 40 minutes
Thanks to the epoxy primer - high adhesion to concrete
Drying - 3 hours, the beginning of active use - after 3 days

The top coat on concrete floors applied by "pouring" provides (compared to painted epoxy paints and "sprayed" floors) a very even and smooth surface.

In addition to the standard ones, the market offers a fairly large range of epoxy bulk coatings that can also be used in residential construction - these are decorative surfaces with chips, various glitters and

The device of most of them is available only to professional specialists. But having elementary skills and having studied some features, you can quite successfully arrange self-leveling epoxy floors in small areas, so to speak, with your own hands.

epoxy flooring cost

Depending on the surface area, concrete grade and layer thickness, the price of a set of materials for an epoxy self-leveling floor on the market ranges from 550 to 1050 rubles. per 1 sq.m.

At the same time, the better the concrete preparation (max. M350) with the optimal layer thickness, the cheaper the cost of the main set of materials. The decorative and protective properties change slightly with increasing floor thickness, but the cost increases quite noticeably.

Therefore, if it is still necessary to increase the thickness of the surface, then it is possible to reduce the cost of work by arranging an underlying layer of sand or epoxy putty mixed with sand.

Chips, flocks and sequins increase the cost of 1 sq.m. from 10 to 100 rubles, depending on their number.
When using wear-resistant and light-resistant polyurethane varnishes to protect against scratches and fix decorative elements, the cost of installing the floor also increases. But money is saved in subsequent repairs.

It is also necessary to take into account the cost of tools and auxiliary materials.

The cost of work on the installation of epoxy coatings is approximately 30% of the cost of materials (excluding transportation and travel expenses), which, with proper skill and skills, can be saved by arranging epoxy floors with your own hands.

It will be a mistake when choosing bulk coatings to dwell exclusively on foreign brands. Similar products of many domestic manufacturers are not inferior in quality to imported mixtures - at a much lower cost

Thus, with a device, for example, 1000 sq.m. surfaces of optimal thickness, the price of a turnkey epoxy self-leveling floor will be from 750 to 1400 rubles. per 1 sq.m.

Polymeric epoxy floors are used for finishing not only industrial, but also residential premises. They are a fairly strong structure, which, contrary to popular belief, does not pose any danger to human health. Epoxy self-leveling floor can often be seen in airports, private homes and restaurants.

What is this material?

Epoxy floor coating is a two-component composition based on a hardener and epoxy resin. The mixture also includes:

Pigments that give the emulsion the desired shade;
Fillers;
Special additives that during pouring ensure an even distribution of the emulsion over the floor.

Thanks to this composition, the filling of floors with epoxy resins is greatly simplified. In this case, the coating is obtained not only seamless and smooth, but also very durable.

It should also be noted that this two-component material has pronounced antistatic properties and good vapor permeability. At the same time, the polymer epoxy floor coating may vary in texture:

matte and semi-matte;
glossy and semi-gloss.

Where are they applied?

This type of coating is subject to certain requirements, fixed in the relevant standard (GOST-R 50766-95), according to which, epoxy-polyester floor coating can be used in the pharmaceutical and food industries, printing houses, as well as workshops specializing in electronics.

To date, the scope of application of two-component emulsions based on epoxy resins has expanded significantly. They have also been used in:

educational institutions;
clubs, cafes and restaurants;
luxury apartments;
medical institutions;
private and multi-apartment buildings.

Note: Epoxy flooring can be poured not only indoors, but also outdoors. This is possible due to the excellent performance characteristics of the material.

What are the pros and cons?

Epoxy flooring materials have become very popular for a reason. After all, they have a large number of advantages compared to other types of floors:

Ease of maintenance. Epoxy flooring is very easy to wash and clean. It is much easier to care for them than, for example, for a parquet surface;
Significant temperature differences do not affect the quality of the material. For this reason, they can be easily used even in baths. If you leave epoxy liquid floors for the winter in an unheated room, their surface will not begin to crack and burst;
Due to the solidity of the coating, there are no places of significant accumulation of dirt on the floor;
Wear resistance. Epoxy resin floors, laid in compliance with the technological process, will last for decades. Moreover, due to the maintainability of the material, scratches, chips and dents are very easy to eliminate. This will require a regular brush and a transparent epoxy;
Resistance to chemical influence (solutions, acids, alkalis);
Good waterproofing. If you decide to use this type of flooring, you do not have to think about additional waterproofing of the room. The polymer solution itself will cope with this task.

True, epoxy liquid floors are not without drawbacks, they are also worth mentioning:

Price. The material itself costs a lot of money, in addition, it is necessary to take into account the cost of work carried out by specialists in pouring the emulsion;
Any type of damage is very visible on the surface;
Since epoxy flooring is a monolith, it will be very problematic to dismantle it.

Coating types

A modern manufacturer is able to offer the consumer many types of epoxy textures. They are specially made for specific operating conditions, so they must also be taken into account:

Thin-layer. During the pouring of such an emulsion, a layer with a thickness of about 1 mm is formed. Despite the dubious thickness of the surface, it copes well with mechanical and chemical loads;
Thick-layer. Unlike the previous version, this design may not be single-layer. The thickness of one layer also does not exceed 1 mm. But due to the application of several layers, the floor is very durable. It easily copes with chemical reagents and mechanical loads. Now such materials are often used in housing construction;
Quartz coating. Quartz sand is added to the bottom layer of the composition, which improves the adhesion of the lower and upper layers. The material is resistant to almost any kind of load, which makes it very durable and reliable. Such a floor covering can even be decorated for a certain interior of the room;
Epoxy industrial floors used in the construction of industrial facilities. They are able to withstand enormous loads of both mechanical and chemical nature. At the same time, the epoxy self-leveling floor coating can be one- or two-layer, multi-colored or plain, matte or glossy, rough or very smooth.

Quite serious requirements are imposed on this type of floors:

environmental Safety;
safety while walking on the surface;
fire safety.

Criterias of choice

If you decide to purchase epoxy-polyamide flooring materials, consider the product selection tips offered by experts:

You can fill the floor not only indoors, but also in the garage, since the temperature difference for the coating is not terrible;
The composition of emulsions may vary. It all depends on the purpose of the coverage. For significant dynamic loads, one type of emulsion is suitable, for chemical action - the second, and for current non-conduction - the third;
aesthetic component. Most likely, for industrial premises, this criterion is not very important, but for restaurants and private dwellings, this is the main thing. Epoxy flooring mixes can be of all kinds of colors and shades, even with the presence of patterns and ornaments. You can also purchase materials with a 3D effect that will decorate the interior of any room.

How to fill?

If you decide to pour epoxy self-leveling floors with your own hands, you need to take into account a lot of nuances when carrying out construction work. Regardless of which type of liquid floor you choose, the application technology will be the same.

Foundation preparation

First you need to prepare the base. If you are going to pour on a concrete base, please note that the temperature in the room should not be below 5 degrees;
Also, you can not start work if the humidity in the room is above 75-80%;
At this stage, you need to detect and eliminate all defects on the coating (dents, chips). To cope with the task, use ordinary cement mortar to seal defects;
If the surface is very large, preliminary grinding and polishing in this matter will not hurt;
Remove construction debris and sanding dust.

Surface priming

Then the floor needs to be primed. This stage is needed in order to improve the adhesion of the base to the liquid emulsion;
When the primer dries, sprinkle the floor with quartz sand. Only then will the base be ready for pouring.

The video and photo demonstrates the implementation of all preparatory work, taking into account the characteristics of the premises and the base of the floor (metal, concrete, wood).

Applying the base coat

When the primer is completely dry (at least a day), proceed to pour the base layer;
The self-leveling polymer product is applied in strips;
To evenly distribute the composition, use a doctor blade. Then the layer thickness will be the same over the entire area;
To distribute the emulsion in the corners of the room, you can use a spatula;
To prevent air bubbles from forming in the coating, roll the entire surface with a special roller with needles;
By the way, you should also be wearing paint shoes that will not leave marks on the floor.

Applying the final layer

This stage of laying is practically no different from the previous version. To fix the effect, you can apply polyurethane varnish. It will make the surface of the floor glossy;
Wait until the varnish dries. This will take at least 2 days.

As you can see, pouring an epoxy floor with your own hands is not so difficult. The material is laid by the method of monolithic casting. In this case, there are no joints between the sections. If necessary, decorative layers can be applied zoned. It is not uncommon for professionals to refer to these areas as chips. According to the design project, various decorative elements can be laid under the finishing layer, which will visually divide the room into zones.

It is of great importance not only for the beauty of the interior of the apartment, but also for subsequent operation.

Self-leveling floors are currently of great interest to consumers. Their use is growing as more and more new materials appear on the construction market. One of them is epoxy flooring.

Epoxy Coating Properties

It is based on epoxy resin, which is a mixture of oligomers and has completely unique properties:

moisture resistance;
chemical inertness;
strength;
high adhesion with other materials.

Epoxy resin has a complex composition, which includes a variety of fillers, modifiers and additives that improve its properties. It hardens in the presence of special hardeners.

The elasticity of the epoxy mixture allows you to make a seamless coating, which, after drying, turns into a monolith. At the same time, it becomes so strong that it can withstand significant mechanical pressure.

The original purpose of epoxy flooring was in high-rise buildings and chemical factories. But later, the design possibilities of these floors were also appreciated, so they began to be used for covering trading floors and other premises that require beautiful and durable floors.

In the end, there were quite a few varieties of floors using epoxy resins:

increased strength have a thickness of up to 10 mm - are used in places with high requirements for the strength and decorativeness of the floor;
highly filled floors based on resin and quartz sand - thickness up to 10 mm, wear-resistant, resistant to abrasives, chemicals, have a lot of colors;
two-component vapor-permeable coatings based on epoxy varnish 3 mm thick, wear-resistant, have, and are easily repaired;
thin-layer colored epoxy floors with a thickness of only 0.6 mm withstand medium loads, are maintainable;
the coating decorated with chips has a thickness of up to 3.5 mm, is moisture resistant, withstands significant loads, and is chemically resistant;
two-component antistatic coating 2.2 mm thick - does not spark, has high vibration resistance and chemical resistance;
anti-slip epoxy-quartz floors (thickness 4.5 mm) - moisture resistant, not afraid of any loads and aggressive influences, do not slip;
two-component colored epoxy floors 3 mm thick - moisture resistant, resistant to any load;
dust-removing coating based on epoxy varnish 0.2 mm thick - laid on a concrete base, resistant to light loads.

Technology of the self-leveling epoxy floor

If you have all the necessary tools and carefully adhering to the flooring technology, without missing any of its stages, you can pour such a floor yourself without involving professionals.

To work, you will need the following tools:

powerful (if possible, it is better to use industrial);
construction mixer for mixing epoxy (you can use a drill with a nozzle);
containers for mixing the mixture and soaking tools;
needle roller;
spatulas of various lengths from a width of 15 to 60 cm;
padding rollers (pile 12 - 15 mm);
doctor blade;
means for protecting the respiratory organs, hands and face (mask or respirator, rubber gloves);
kraskostupy for movement on the surface filled in with mix.

Stages of work:

Foundation preparation. It must be horizontal, otherwise there will be a large waste of material. If there are significant differences, then the floor is necessary. Substrate moisture should not exceed 4%.

Substrate preparation for priming. Before it begins, the floor must be cleaned of the remnants of the old coating. First, the debris is swept away with a brush, and then the cleaned base is carefully vacuumed.

Foundation primer. Following the instructions, the components of the primer are mixed with a mixer at a speed of approximately 500 rpm. The speed must be such that container with the mixture formed a funnel with a height of approximately 20% of the height of the container. The result should be an absolutely homogeneous mixture. She is allowed to stand for 4 to 5 minutes so that air bubbles come out.

It must be remembered that the life of the finished one is about 35 - 40 minutes, so you need to mix as much. How much can you earn during this time?

The soil is poured with a snake on the floor and distributed with a synthetic winterizer roller so that a glossy surface is formed. If in any areas the soil is strongly absorbed, you need to add the mixture there and level it again.

The primary layer of soil polymerizes during the day.

After the primer has hardened, the floor is once again checked for defects and eliminated. After the places have hardened, a second layer of primer is applied. Subsequent operations can be started only after a day.

The device of the base layer (underlying). Its main purpose is to eliminate the remaining pores and the final elimination of the remaining irregularities. The thickness of this layer can reach 1.5 mm.

To do this, you need to prepare the primer again in the required amount. It is necessary to proceed from the calculation of 400 ml of the mixture per 1 sq. m. The composition is poured and evenly distributed over the surface with a spatula. Work must be carried out in paint shoes.

After about 20 minutes, the entire floor is covered with a layer of pure quartz sand (fraction 0.3 - 0.6 mm). The approximate consumption of sand is 1.5 kg / sq.m. After 16 - 20 hours, when the primer is completely polymerized, excess sand is removed with a hard plastic brush. The floor is thoroughly vacuumed.

Sealing layer device. It consists of a basic epoxy compound. Using a mixer, the necessary components are mixed and the mixture stands for 3 to 4 minutes.

The finished mixture should not be in the container for more than 10 minutes!

The composition is poured on the floor and distributed with a spatula or doctor blade. The consumption of the epoxy mixture is about 400 ml/sq.m. especially carefully you need to distribute the mixture in the corners of the room and around.

If it is planned to decorate the floor with chips or other flat decorations, then they are placed on the surface right now. The polymerization of the coating will also take 16 - 20 hours.

Finishing device. At this stage, you need to work especially carefully. It is desirable that the surface temperature is about 20 degrees. The lower the floor temperature, the more will be the consumption of the mixture.

The mixture for pouring is prepared in the same way as in the previous step. Its amount must be calculated based on the consumption of 1000 ml / sq. m. This is necessary in order to get the effect of self-leveling the floor.

The composition is poured in wide strips and distributed using a doctor blade. After 15 minutes, it is rolled with a spiked roller. This removes air bubbles and the surface becomes completely homogeneous.

The term for complete solidification of the finishing layer is at least a day. But during the next 6 - 7 days it is not recommended to exert mechanical influences on the new floor.

All this time it should be open, but care must be taken that dirt, dust, liquids do not get on it.

Floor varnishing. This is not a mandatory but desirable step. Polyurethane varnish is applied (1 or 2 layers) with a brush or roller. Its consumption is 100 - 130 ml / sq.m.

The varnish dries out for about a day, but it will be possible to operate the floor only after 4-5 days.

Advantages and disadvantages of epoxy flooring

The advantages of this type of floors include the following:

Durable screed.
Chemical resistance of the coating and moisture resistance.
Flame Retardant - Epoxy does not support combustion.
Easy care due to high dirt-repellent properties.
Wear resistance guarantees a long service life (more than 20 years).
The ability to adjust the degree of roughness of the floor, which makes it safer.
Harmless to humans. During operation, the floor does not emit any harmful substances.
Variety of colors and options.

The disadvantages include:

Pretty high cost.
The complexity of the floor installation process.
The difficulty of removing the epoxy floor from the surface.

A patient and careful person with minimal skills can lay the epoxy floor on their own. It is only necessary to strictly observe the technology of work and follow the instructions when preparing the composition. The process is lengthy, but the result is worth it.