How is a block house assembled? Do-it-yourself block house installation. Preparing the block house for installation

In our article, we examined in detail the differences in block house varieties and learned how to choose high-quality material. Let us dwell in more detail on the intricacies of installation: the arrangement of the crate, the choice of insulation and antiseptic impregnations.

Block house cladding is a reliable and environmentally friendly way to finish new and repair old facades. However, do not forget that wood is a rather capricious material that requires a special approach. Therefore, even before the installation of the block house, several points should be taken into account:

1. The smaller the closed area, the smaller the diameter of the selected block house should be. Wide boards visually reduce space, especially indoors.
2. To achieve a high-quality result when sheathing a new wooden building, you should wait until the house stands and shrinks. It usually takes about six months from the moment of assembly and installation of the log house - otherwise, during the drying process, the block house may come apart at the seams and it will be necessary to completely redo all the work.
3. The purchased material should be kept for several days in the room where the work will be carried out (if it is planned to cover the facade, then under a canopy). The block house must acclimatize - gain humidity and ambient temperature - only in this case there will be no problems during subsequent installation and operation.

Stage 1 - preparation for installation

Before starting the installation of the block house, you need to carry out a number of preparatory work:

1. Prepare the base - treat the walls with antiseptic impregnations (wooden house) or by washing off efflorescence and impregnation on stone (brick or block house), putty chips, potholes and cracks.
2. Seal the crowns of the log house (in a log house) - caulk them with tow, jute or linen fiber. To seal the seams, you can use special sealants for wood. But this method is less reliable and durable - the putty composition sooner or later collapses and loses its properties, unlike jute sealants, the fibers of which practically grow together with the tree.
3. Process the block house intended for installation - the surface of the tree is impregnated on all sides with compositions with fire and biological protection, if necessary - tinted with stains or colored wood impregnations. It is extremely important to apply the first layer before installation on the walls - this way you can process all hard-to-reach places (thorns and grooves) and avoid streaks and streaks.

Stage 2 - installation of the crate

The main purpose of the crate is to level the wall and create additional space for laying insulation (if provided). For the installation of a block house, a vertical crate is most often used - the boards fixed on it imitate the surface of a rounded log. Occasionally, in the interior decoration of baths and saunas, a non-standard horizontal crate is used, sewing on it a narrow block house like a lining.

To obtain an even base for a block house, you must first mark the walls using a level and a plumb line:

1. According to the level, pull a horizontal fishing line along the longest wall - first along the top, then along the bottom.
2. In the corners, using a plumb line, pull and align the vertical fishing line (so that the wall is not littered).
3. Repeat the procedure around the entire perimeter of the building.

The first plank of the crate is attached along a vertically stretched fishing line, all subsequent ones are aligned horizontally and vertically. Rails are mounted on the entire surface of the wall, including gaps between windows, door frames and cornices. The usual step for the crate is about 60 cm (in areas with strong winds - no more than 30 cm).

Most often, a dry bar or a galvanized metal profile is used for the crate for a block house:

Despite some advantages of a galvanized metal profile, a wooden block is much more often used in arranging a crate for sheathing a block house. Wooden material is cheaper by about 25-30%, and with proper processing, it is practically in no way inferior to metal. In addition, such a crate can be easily adjusted even in finished form - the bars can always be trimmed a little or, on the contrary, built up with thin dies.

Stage 3 - insulation and hydro-vapor barrier

Often, along with the installation of a block house, additional work is carried out to insulate the facade of the house. Laying protective films and a layer of thermal insulation requires adjustments to the process of installing the crate:

1. A sheet or roll vapor barrier is attached to the facade. For example, you can use the protective film "Isobond B" - a two-layer material that prevents the accumulation of condensate and protects against fungus and corrosion. The insulating material is laid with an overlap of 100-150 mm, the joints are fixed with adhesive tape.
2. On top of the vapor barrier layer, a crate is sewn from a bar with a thickness equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. In this case, the step of the crate should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation - this will avoid unnecessary gaps.
3. Insulation is mounted in the crate, which is additionally attached to the wall with dowel-nails.
4. A layer of a wind and moisture protective membrane is attached over the insulation using a construction stapler - for example, Isobond B, which provides additional protection from atmospheric precipitation.
5. To create additional ventilation, additional rails are added to the main crate, to which the block house will be mounted.

Types of heaters are most suitable for sheathing with a block house, the comparative characteristics of which are presented in the table:

When choosing a heater, special attention should be paid to its density - thermal insulation with a density below 30-35 practically sticks together after several years of operation, completely losing its protective properties.

Stage 4 - installation of the block house

At the moment, when installing a block house, several technologies are used that differ in the type of fasteners:

1. Kleimer - a special bar that is inserted into the groove of the board and with the help of a self-tapping screw fastens it to the crate.

1. Self-tapping screw or nail - can be fastened in two ways: either with the cap recessed into the groove of the block house, or at an angle of 45 degrees. Both options require a lot of experience and skill, as they are fraught with chips and cracks in the board.

1. Using a drill, mounting holes for self-tapping screws or nails are drilled. After fastening, the hats are sunk and closed with special wooden corks planted on glue. This is the most reliable and inconspicuous mounting option, but at the same time the most painstaking.

For the installation of a block house, it is best to use galvanized or anodized fasteners - this will help to avoid metal corrosion and wood decay in the future.

According to the rules, the installation of a block house starts from the bottom up, while the spike of the board should be on top - in order to avoid excess moisture during operation. It is necessary to leave working gaps for shrinkage and ventilation - 5 cm along the upper and lower borders of the facade and a few millimeters between the panels.

During installation, the board is inserted into the groove with a spike and additionally tapped along the entire length for a better connection. After docking, the top panel is attached to the wall.

To build up the block house along the length, special layouts can be used - thin wooden planks covering the joints. At the corners, the panels are joined either using a 45-degree cut, or using decorative external and internal corners.

Stage 5 - processing and protection

After the initial treatment with impregnations and installation, the block house, like any other wooden material, needs constant protection from the influence of many factors: decay, woodworms, precipitation and ultraviolet radiation. The choice of means and the frequency of processing the finished wooden facade is determined by the climatic zone. In central Russia, it is enough to update tree protection at intervals of 3-4 years.

Now, universal antiseptics are widely represented on the building materials market - protecting and at the same time tinting wood. They are made on a water or acrylic basis. In addition, protective compositions can preserve and emphasize the texture of wood (azure) or completely paint over it (paints).

For optimal protection of the facade sheathed with a block house, it is best to use tinting protective compositions with the addition of acrylic lacquer. Such impregnations are widely represented by trusted manufacturers, such as Tikkurila, Neomid, Texturol. Buying cheaper water-based products is like throwing money away: their protective properties “disappear” in just a year.

Related videos

Block house is a popular finishing material that is used to decorate the walls and facades of various buildings. It features attractive appearance and easy installation. This finish can be used for both exterior and interior decoration. Today we will take a closer look at the intricacies of installing such a cladding.

Peculiarities

Block house is rightfully recognized as one of the most common and sought-after finishing materials. Ceilings sheathed with such coatings look like they are built from natural wood.

The block house is made of wood and galvanized steel. The latter material is additionally covered with a polymer-based film. Such finishing coatings are double and single.

In the production of these materials, both deciduous and coniferous trees are used. The most durable and durable coatings are made from coniferous wood, as they contain natural resins. Such components provide natural waterproofing of the finishing material.

In addition to wood, metal versions of such a finish are also produced - metal siding. Such coatings are made of galvanized steel, not subject to corrosion. These materials often imitate natural wood and look natural.

A high-quality block house is produced on machines with special cutters. Wood processing has a direct impact on the quality of the finished product.

The block house is distinguished by its shape. It has a rounded front and a flat back wall. On the edges of these materials there are spikes and grooves that are necessary for joining the lamellas on the base.

The ventilated facade, decorated with this finishing material, consists of several important components.

• In such structures, high-quality vapor barrier must be present. This component protects the block house from steam and high humidity. The vapor barrier layer passes vapors through itself in the direction of the ceilings, preventing them from reaching the insulation sheet.
• Also, similar systems of facades have a crate (framework). It forms the space between the wall of the house and the block house itself. This component acts as the basis for fixing the rails. As a rule, the crate is made of a wooden bar with a section of 100x40 mm or 50x40 mm - this parameter depends on the material that makes up the heat-insulating layer.

• A heat-insulating layer is also required in this design. For this, inexpensive foam or mineral wool is most often used. The insulation must be at least 10 cm thick.
• Such facade systems must be equipped with a wind barrier. It is installed on the frame beam and protects the insulation layer from the humidity that is present in the surrounding air.
• In the gap between the block house and the windproof film, as a rule, there is a counter-lattice. It consists of bars of a small section - 20x40 cm. If this element is not used when arranging the facade, then the panels of the block house made of wood can rot quite quickly.
• The final is the facing layer of the block house.

All of the listed components must be present in the facade structure. Otherwise, the block house will not last long and will rot.

Varieties

Block house is made of metal and wood. Let us analyze in more detail what characteristics these types of finishing material possess.

Wooden

To begin with, it is worth considering how good the cladding of the house with wooden coatings is:

• Such materials have a natural and expensive design. Buildings decorated in this way look cozy and hospitable.
• The wooden block house is an environmentally friendly material. It contains no hazardous chemicals. Even at high temperatures, such a lining will not emit harmful substances.
• Block house made of wood is a wear-resistant material. It is not easy to damage or break. He is not afraid of shock and mechanical damage.
• High-quality panels are not subject to the formation of mold and fungus.

In addition, many consumers attribute a high cost to a number of disadvantages of a wooden block house.

For external cladding, material with a thickness of 40-45 mm is used. Such coatings are distinguished by increased heat and sound insulation characteristics. They are able to withstand the impact of adverse external factors due to their thickness.

For interior decoration, thinner lamellas with a thickness of 20-24 mm are used. Such coatings can only be used as decorative design elements. They are great for decorating the interior, because they have a small thickness and do not take up extra free space.

The block house is made of various types of wood and is divided into several classes.

• "Extra". Such finishing materials are of the highest quality. They have a pleasant smooth surface, on which there are not the slightest defects. Such a block house is expensive because it undergoes complex processing.
• "BUT". Materials of this class may have small knots on their surface, minor mechanical damage, as well as darkened areas. In some places, such a board may be uneven.

• "AT". Class block house may have cracks, knots and other noticeable defects.
• "FROM". Products of this class often have serious damage, noticeable cracks and knots.

Metal

• its installation is also considered quite simple;
• such finishing material does not need to be regularly looked after using expensive means;
• a metal block house can be laid out on bases consisting of any materials, but most often such material is sheathed with house floors or a pediment;
• such panels are inexpensive, especially when compared with natural wood coatings.

The only and main drawback of the metal block house is its impressive weight. That is why it is possible to purchase such material only if the walls of the house are strong enough and reliable. There is a lightweight alternative to such a material - an aluminum block house. However, it is less durable. It can be easily bent and damaged.

Such finishing materials are more often used for exterior decoration. They look beautiful and natural. At first glance, it can be very difficult to distinguish them from natural wood.

How to choose?

Choosing a block house is not an easy task. Facing boards differ from each other not only in the materials from which they are made, but also in other characteristics.

When choosing such finishing materials, it is worth relying on the recommendations of specialists.

• For facade cladding, it is worth choosing not only thicker, but also wide panels. This parameter should be at least 15 cm. Choose coatings so that they have the same dimensions.
• It is recommended to buy longer slats. Using such materials, you can sheathe the house with a minimum number of joints. The standard block house length is 6 m.

• More dense and reliable are boards from the northern regions. These features have a positive effect on other qualities of similar materials. It is possible to find out the degree of density of a tree using the location of the annual rings. The closer they are to each other, the more dense the raw material is.
• Do not buy a block house that has various defects and damage, such as rotten knots, cracks, dark spots or moldy deposits.
• Pay attention to pitching - it should not be large. The width of such elements should not exceed 8 mm, and the depth - 3 mm.
• The permitted wood moisture content is 20%. This indicator must be present in the quality certificate.
• The packaging of the block house must not be damaged. If any are present, then it is better to refuse to purchase the material, since it may be damaged or prone to rotting.

The subtleties of fastening

The block house is mounted on a frame made of wood or a metal profile. With this method of installation, constant ventilation occurs from the inside, which avoids the penetration of moisture into the material and insulation. Facade walls are constructed in two layers so that insulation can be installed between them.

The block house must be attached horizontally to the bases. In this case, the spike should be directed upwards, and the groove - downwards.

The thorn-groove locking system is optimal for such finishes. However, besides this, self-tapping screws are used to fasten each bar from the outside. They are installed closer to the side of the panel.

In addition to self-tapping screws, other elements are used to fasten the material:

• nails;
• kleimer;
• galvanized staples.

Material blanks for external finishing are laid out horizontally. However, inside the building they can also have a vertical arrangement.

• first you need to fix the bar in a vertical position;
• then workpieces should be attached to it.

Using this method of fastening, you will eliminate the appearance of noticeable gaps.

At the joints, additional cuts must be made at an angle of 45 degrees. They are necessary to protect the finishing materials from deformation. This technique can be applied to both external and internal cladding of the house.

Calculation of the amount of lumber

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the facade of the house, it is necessary to calculate how much block house you will need.

Currently, such materials are produced with various dimensional parameters:

• the width of the lamellas for interior decoration is 96 mm, length - 2-6 m, thickness - from 20 mm;
• for outdoor decoration, a board with a width of 100 to 200 mm, a length of 4-6 m and a thickness of up to 45 cm is used.

To find out how much block house you need to buy to decorate your house, you should find out how many square meters are in the floors. To do this, multiply the width by the height. From the resulting value, subtract the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors. Now you can calculate the area of ​​​​one panel and divide the total number by the resulting value. Do not forget that in these calculations you need to take into account only the working width of the material (without locking elements).

For example:

• the panel is 5 m long and 0.1 m wide;
• we multiply these values ​​​​and as a result we get the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel - 0.5 sq m;
• if the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall is 10 square meters, then only 20 lamellas will be needed to finish it;
• if there are doors and window openings on the floor, then it is worth buying a block house with a small margin.

Step by step installation instructions

You can decorate the floors with a block house with your own hands. Let us consider in more detail the step-by-step instructions for laying such a facing material.

You will need the following materials:

• special membrane for wind protection;
• roll insulation;
• vapor barrier film;
• primer;
• antiseptic composition;
• bars for the frame;
• clamps and self-tapping screws for fasteners.

You also need to stock up on such tools:

• level;
• brush;
• hammer;
• Sander;
• saw;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver

First you need to prepare the grounds:

• All wooden parts should be treated with antiseptics. It is desirable to cover the boards with flame retardant - it will protect them from fire and mold.
• A vapor barrier layer must be nailed to the walls of the house. The film should be fixed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. It is more convenient to carry out such work with the help of a construction stapler.
• Next, you need to install the crate. It must be horizontal. Beams should be mounted with nails or self-tapping screws. If we are sheathing brick or panel walls, then it is better to use frame dowels.
• Insulation should be laid out in the open cells of the frame structure.
• Attach another layer of crate to the main frame - vertical. To do this, the bars should be fixed with a level. It is on this basis that we will lay the block house.

You can do the installation of a block house with your own hands - it's not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

A block house is a house cladding that gives the impression that the house is built entirely of wood, although completely different materials were used in its construction.

This article discusses the technology of installing a block house with your own hands, types of siding, contains detailed instructions for finishing a block house, photos and videos.

More about block house

Block house panels are made primarily for beauty, in order to give the home decoration a natural effect.

After such installation, it seems that the dwelling is built of wood, although sometimes this is not so.

If you wish, you can carry out such repairs with your own hands, if you have time and experience, especially if there are various videos from the Internet.

Interior spaces can also be finished with such panels, but few do so. A wooden block house is still quite expensive, even if you install it yourself.

You should know that this coverage in Russia and in the West are different things. In the USA and Europe, this is understood as frame houses that can be assembled in a very short time.

In Russia, a block house is a type of panel that is used for cosmetic repairs. It is not difficult to guess that wood, most often needles, is used for such panels.

However, there are other similar ways to decorate a house with your own hands, for example, metal siding.

Scheme of external fastening

In addition to the classic wooden block house, there are also vinyl and metal ones. Both of these types are also made to look like wood, only from other materials, which is more like siding.

Metal siding, for example, is now very popular due to its low price and the fact that it looks more like wood than vinyl.

In addition, the benefit of siding is that it can be combined with different sheathing and it is easier to fix the material to the wall than wood panels.

On the one hand, the installation of a block house, metal siding or ordinary siding is not particularly difficult, and a person who understands at least a little about construction can do it himself.

On the other hand, in order to make repairs well and as accurately as possible approach the style of a log house or lay metal siding panels in a quality manner, you need to follow a number of rules.

Firstly, given the number of types of coatings, you need to understand that working with each material has its own nuances, so the installation of a metal block house will differ from the usual one.

And secondly, you need to install the panels after the material from which the house is built dries and the volume of the walls decreases slightly (shrinkage of the house).

Otherwise, the repair of the premises will not give the desired effect, and all efforts will be in vain.

The most problematic part in wood paneling is the processing of corners at the final stage of installation.

What should be done before repair?

To begin with, you still need to decide what you want to do - a block house, metal siding or ordinary siding (if you want to finish the interior rooms, then it is better to choose the first option).

As mentioned above, the usual siding is made from artificial materials, and the block house is made from natural.

If you decide to do metal siding, then you need to take into account that the metal is very susceptible to the influence of temperature and its sudden changes.

Construction device

The distance between siding panels is approximately 1 or 2 mm. Of course, such a gap allows cold to pass through, and heat lingers less in the wall.

Therefore, you should find out in which region the dwelling is located - in warm or cold, in order to decide whether siding is needed or not.

If the house is wooden, then you need to remove the remnants of the bark from the log cabins (if installation is planned from the outside) and clean the walls from dirt.

Even at the preparation stage, you should take care of the interior rooms of the house (especially if you decide to do metal siding).

Usually the walls are insulated with foam or mineral wool, the choice of material here is at the discretion of the owner.

Another treatment of the room should also be carried out - to dry and cover the walls with an antiseptic, if you want to make wooden panels.

As for metal siding and siding, nothing needs to be prepared before installation. Below we will consider how to make the installation of a block house made of wood, and all the necessary tools are listed.

After all the necessary work is completed, you need to think about what you need for do-it-yourself repairs.

Necessary tools and materials for repair:

• block house panels;
• wooden bars (sections - 30x40 and 40x50 mm). Needed to make a frame for panels;
• kraft paper (for vapor barrier);
• polyethylene waterproofing membrane;
• material for insulation (quite often the installation of a block house is combined with the insulation of a house);
• various means for treating wood from damage and insects (for block house panels);
• nails or screws;
• plinths for sheathing from the inside;
• platbands for a block house;
• narrow or circular saw (for cutting panels);
• corners (for finishing the internal and external corners of the room);
• screwdriver;
• construction stapler.

When all the necessary tools have been purchased and the house (in case it is wooden) has been prepared appropriately for repair, you can start decorating the room both inside and out.

The step-by-step instructions below will describe the installation in more detail.

Mounting process

The technology for installing panels when installing a block house with your own hands is not particularly complicated. If the installation is done carefully, and the corners are properly processed, then such repairs will be durable, and it will be warm inside the building in winter.

The first step is to attach a layer of waterproofing film to the wall. On top of the waterproofing membrane, you need to make a crate.

To make it, wooden beams are suitable, but sometimes metal ones are also used.

If it is decided to make a crate of wood, then before fixing it, it is necessary to treat the bars with various impregnations from damage and insects.

It is best to use bars with the section indicated above (40x50 mm), since the thickness of the materials for warming the room is about 50 mm.

The bars in the crate should not be located at a distance of more than 60 cm. As a result, cells are obtained in which the selected material for insulation must be folded.

Since you need to leave a distance between the panels and the heat insulator, you should make another crate with your own hands, which is superimposed on the first one.

Fastening for panels is done precisely to this crate. However, before you make the second one, you need to attach kraft paper for vapor barrier.

This is done using a construction stapler. On the photo on the Internet you can see how it looks.

After the job is done, you can begin directly mounting the block house. It is recommended to sheathe walls with your own hands from top to bottom and vice versa.

It is very important to observe the horizontal paneling of the panels, the vertical method will not work here, since even the smallest misalignment can ruin the whole look.

You should know that the sheathing should not reach the ground by 30 cm, and this is a minimum. Stone materials are usually used to finish the remaining part.

Even before you mount the block house, you need to decide how exactly to do it. The panels are connected to each other using a thorn-groove system, but they also need to be fixed to the crate.

Installation involves the use of self-tapping screws. In the panel with your own hands, you need to make a hole the size of a nail, in this way the board is fixed to the crate.

It should be remembered that the hole should be at half the thickness of the board. As a result, there may be a gap between the panels, but this can be easily masked with sawdust or glue.

How it looks, you can see on the photo on the Internet and construction magazines.

You can also use kleimers or galvanized nails as fasteners.

But in the case of the first, the process will take longer and there is a risk of damage to the tree, and the second method is only suitable for professionals, since working with galvanized nails is quite laborious.

Usually, after the installation of the coating is completed, the corners of the siding are processed.

During the installation process, it is best that the spike enters the groove from top to bottom - this technology is not at all complicated. If you arrange the block house in this way, then at the end you need to lightly tap with a mallet so that the boards are close to each other.

When the installation of the panels is completed, it is necessary to process the corners of the structure inside and out.

You can, of course, make special grooves for them, but this is quite difficult, so it will be better and easier to make slats for the corners.

If you still want to make a simple siding, then it is advisable to insulate the house inside before or after installation.

Metal siding, imitating the outer surface of a log house, is used for finishing buildings for various purposes, including private houses. The advantage of metal panels under the log is the ability to quickly, easily and not expensively give an attractive appearance to the facade of the building. The installation of metal block house siding is usually the final step in a set of measures to create a ventilated facade system, which includes pre-installation of the mounting crate and insulation of the walls from the outside.

Metal siding blockhouse as a facing material

Initially, a block house, that is, a house cladding that imitates the shape and texture of a building log, was made from solid wood. They are making a wooden block house now. However, this material has two drawbacks. Firstly, it is not without all the disadvantages that are typical for wood products, and secondly, it is expensive, so not everyone can afford to use it to restore the facade of a dilapidated house.

The next material that repeats the shape of a log, which manufacturers have mastered, is a plastic (vinyl) block house. Without mentioning the less significant ones, it is worth mentioning the main drawback of vinyl panels to raise questions about the appropriateness of its use for finishing residential buildings - plastic siding is combustible, while combustion products are extremely toxic.

The last word of the manufacturers is the metal siding under the log, which is based on a galvanized steel sheet with a thickness of about 0.5 mm. The steel is coated on both sides with several layers of protection that protects it from oxidation and exposure to aggressive chemicals. On the front side, on top of the sprayed protection, a decorative layer is applied that imitates the texture of the surface of a polished log. The pattern is also covered with a transparent laminating film that protects not only from mechanical damage, but also from UV rays that cause fading of colors. As a result, manufacturers endowed metal siding under a log with the following characteristics:

• does not burn;
• does not deform at temperatures + 70- - 50;
• pattern and color do not change over time;
• durability exceeds 50 years;
• easy to install with your own hands;
• ideal for ventilated façade systems.

The metal block house authentically imitates the texture of a natural log; you can see its non-wooden nature only up close. Thanks to these advantages, metal siding under a log is increasingly becoming the material of choice when it comes to cladding buildings for various purposes.

After making sure that you have chosen the right cladding for your home, it's time to start preparatory activities.

Preparing to install metal siding

To proceed with the installation work and successfully carry it out, you need to pay due attention to preparation. First of all, you need to stock up on the necessary material. Prepare the necessary tools and fixtures, taking into account the fact that you have to work at a small but height. If a full range of measures is supposed to be included in the creation of a ventilated facade, the purchase of insulation and protective films for thermal insulation should be taken into account. Now more about these issues.

Calculation and selection of material

Let's start with the crate. As guides, galvanized metal profiles or wooden beams can be used. The profile (drywall CD 27x54 is used) is considered more durable, but it is a little more difficult to work with. When choosing metal guides, pay attention to the quality of galvanization (a high-quality coating should shine) and sufficient profile rigidity.

Wooden beams serve less, but the service life can be increased by treating the wood with priming and antiseptic impregnations. When choosing wooden guides (suitable section 50x50), make sure that the bars are dry, as even as possible, without large knots. The quality of the surface finish does not matter. The guides are calculated based on a step of 60 cm (the width of the basalt insulation) and their vertical location.

It is more convenient to attach racks to the wall with U-shaped hangers for the profile (also suitable for timber). You need to fix the brackets to the wall with dowels (brick, concrete) or wood screws (log, aerated concrete, clay). The number of fasteners is 3-4 for each rack.

On top of the profiles (beams), you will need to additionally sew slats up to 30 mm thick. They are needed to create an air ventilation gap between the lining and the insulation. The number of rails corresponds to the useful total length of the guides.

The amount of insulation (mineral wool in mats) is equal to the area of ​​the walls minus the openings. The area of ​​wind protection and vapor barrier is also calculated plus 10% for overlapping canvases.

The metal block house is calculated according to the area of ​​the walls without windows and doors, but with a small margin of about 2-3 m2 for cutting it. Dobors (corners, connecting and starting strips, J-profiles that are attached near doors and slopes) are sold by running meters, they are calculated, respectively, in them.

Important. When purchasing metal siding, pay attention to its quality and availability of a certificate. To be safe, give preference to products of well-known manufacturers and do not buy semi-handicraft material that is too cheap.

Tool preparation

To perform a set of works from creating a crate to installing a metal block house siding, you will need the following tools and fixtures:

• water level or laser level, ordinary bubble level, plumb line;
• screwdriver;
• perforator (brick or concrete wall);
• Angle grinder (grinder) with a disk for metal and scissors for metal (to cut panels in various situations);
• yardstick;
• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• stepladder or other device from which you can work at a height of 3-4 meters.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed with the installation of the block house with your own hands, starting with the crate and insulation.

How to mount guides and thermal insulation, process description

1. First, the wall is covered with a vapor barrier sheet, after which the edge profiles are installed. To do this, first, brackets are mounted along the guide line with a step of about 80 cm. Racks must be vertical (checked by a plumb line) and spaced from the wall surface at a distance corresponding to the thickness of the basalt insulation. How to attach hangers to the profile? To do this, you need special small self-tapping screws with a drill at the end (among professionals, such screws are called “fleas”).
2. Threads are pulled between the extreme profiles (top, bottom) and the rest of the guides are set along them.

Important. When installing standard pitch racks, be sure to install rails around window and door openings.

1. Insulation mats are laid between the racks of the crate so that there is a minimum space (ideally, none at all) that is not filled with heat-insulating material.
2. A windproof film is installed over the racks and mineral wool. In this case, it is better to roll it horizontally and press it with slats, screwing them on top of the main guides. Neighboring canvases overlap by about 15 cm.

At this stage, the installation of the crate and wall insulation ends. You can move on to lining.

Installing metal siding block house

1. With the help of a water or laser level, a horizontal line is beaten off along the perimeter of the house at the level of the top of the basement. This will be the starting line that will correspond to the bottom of the first panel.
2. At the corners, at the places of the intended connections of the siding segments, the corresponding additional strips are installed. The starting bar is mounted from below along the marked horizontal line.
3. The edges of the first strip of siding are inserted on the sides into the grooves of the extensions, from below it snaps into the starting bar. To get the panel into the grooves of the additional elements, it can be bent slightly outwards.
4. Subsequent structural elements of the siding are connected to the previous interlocks. To dock two adjacent panels, you need to press the top one until a characteristic click appears. It is not worth tightening the fixing screws tightly, since it is necessary that the facing material can be freely deformed within the oval mounting hole when the temperature changes.
5. The top panel is closed with a finishing bar, which is similar to the starting one. So every wall is sheathed. J-profiles are installed near the window slopes and doors to close the edges of the block house.

As you can see, the installation of a ventilated facade with a metal block house cladding is not very difficult. If the instructions above seemed insufficient to fully understand the intricacies of the workflow, watching this video will help fill in the information gaps.

A wooden block house is an excellent option for the exterior of low-rise buildings. This applies to this finish and from other materials. It has an attractive appearance and is able to retain the natural heat inside the building.

For reference

If you are familiar with the technology, you can install the trim yourself, saving money. Block house imitates natural wood finishes. This material is made of wood, galvanized metal or vinyl. Fastening is carried out using galvanized dowels or hanging brackets, it all depends on what the panels are made of.

Why choose a block house for the facade

Block house is popular among professionals and home craftsmen today. How to attach this material will be described in more detail below. If you still doubt whether it is worth choosing such a cladding for your home, then you need to pay attention to the positive characteristics, among them:

• the ability to insulate the facade and waterproof the walls of the house;
• short period of work;
• non-susceptibility of the material to ultraviolet radiation;
• the possibility of finishing not only the walls, but also the gables, as well as the plinths of buildings;
• the ability to install a block house on walls made of any material, be it stone, concrete or brick.

Among the wide variety of modern finishing materials in stores, there is also such as a block house. How to fix this material? Before starting work, it is imperative to familiarize yourself with the technology. You can perform the installation yourself, as a result, you will be able to get a lining that will not lose its original color over time.

Due to the fact that the material is fastened according to the technology, moisture does not accumulate under the finish, which could cause mold. Among other things, such a finish does not exert a significant load on the foundation and walls of the house, which cannot be said about the material made of natural wood or metal.

Wall surface preparation

Before attaching the block house from the outside, you must prepare the facade, which must be even and dry. The surface can be plastered, and wooden houses can be cleaned and sanded, which is especially true for places affected by fungus and mold. Such areas should be treated with a special antiseptic primer. The walls must be additionally waterproofed, for this it is applied to walls made of brick or reinforced concrete. An exception is also walls made of wood, a water-repellent composition must be applied to their surface, which will prevent the formation of fungus and mold.

Installing a carrier rail

If you are thinking about how to fix a block house, you should know that this material is installed on a crate, which is made of metal profiles or wood. The first option is used for fastening galvanized metal cladding, so an example of installing a block house on a wooden crate will be considered below.

At the first stage, a vapor barrier layer is attached, which can be a film. The sheets must be installed with an overlap of 3 cm, this will prevent steam from seeping through. A wooden crate should be set strictly vertically, the beam for the supporting structure should be dry and treated with an antiseptic primer, it is important to choose a deep penetration composition.

So, you have decided to use a block house for the exterior decoration of your house. How to fix this material? You should familiarize yourself with this before starting work. The technology provides for compliance with a certain step of the crate, which should be 50 cm. This will guarantee the reliability and strength of the structure. Fixing the block house to the wall surface is carried out after laying the thermal insulation and waterproofing, which are located between the crate.

At the next stage, the counter-lattice is fastened, which is installed on top of the insulation layer, and steam and waterproofing. Two load-bearing battens are fixed together with galvanized wood screws, it is important to choose the right fastener length.

Panel installation features

Increasingly, modern builders are choosing a block house for finishing low-rise buildings. How to fix this material, you should also find out if you are going to purchase a cladding for work. Fastening of boards is made from below or from above a wall. An important rule is the location of the tongue up, in this case, water will not be able to penetrate into the joints of the boards.

Whatever the installation method, leave 5 cm gaps at the top and bottom of the wall to provide ventilation space. Due to the fact that wood has the ability to expand when exposed to temperature and humidity, it is important to leave a gap between the boards, the width of which should be equal to 3 mm. If this rule is neglected, then the panels can be deformed under the influence of external adverse factors. The corners of the cladding connection should be decorated with external or internal corners. With a significant thickness of the material, it is necessary to hide the junction of the boards with two vertical slats.

Features of installing vinyl siding on the facade

If you want to know how to properly fix the block house from the outside, then initially you must decide on the finishing material. If it is vinyl, then it is also necessary to leave a temperature gap between the panels, its width should be equal to a maximum of 3 mm.

It is necessary to fasten each product only in the place where the manufacturer has provided perforation. If there are no holes for installing fasteners, then they must be punched before starting installation. The step between the attachment points should not be more than 40 cm. During work, anti-corrosion fasteners, galvanized self-tapping screws, which are sometimes replaced with nails of sufficient length, should be used.

If you decide to use self-tapping screws, then after they are completely tightened, you need to unscrew the fasteners one turn. This requirement is also dictated by the thermal expansion of the material. Nails provide for the need to provide a space between the cap and the finish surface of one millimeter.

Features of the interior decoration of the walls of the block house

Many novice craftsmen today are thinking about the question of how to fix a block house inside the house. The methodology for carrying out the work is almost no different from the one described above, but there are some nuances.

Regardless of what material the walls are made of, the battens should be installed, for this you need to use 30 mm bars. The distance between them can be equal to the interval in the range from 50 to 60 cm, it is important to align the elements in height during their installation. This is one main advantage - when decorating the internal walls of the house with a block house, there is no need to level the walls before starting work.

Insulation during interior decoration is optional, this is especially true for wooden and brick structures. However, the decision on the need for thermal insulation must be made in advance, even before the installation of the crate. If this layer is present, then the thickness of the bars indicated above must be increased.

Before fixing the block house to the wall, it is necessary to calculate how much the room will be reduced, this is especially true when a soundproofing effect is necessary, which is achieved by providing air space between the casing and the wall.

As a rule, a block house indoors is installed horizontally along a vertically oriented crate. But in some cases, vertical mounting of panels is also used. This is true in cases where conditions of high humidity remain in the room, which is true for baths and saunas. These technologies during the operation of the premises make it possible to exclude the accumulation of liquid in the grooves of the boards, preventing premature destruction of wood.

If you are thinking about how to properly fix the block house using the above installation method, then the spike of the first and all subsequent boards should be directed towards the light source, this will make the joint of the boards not so noticeable. But such fastening is usually considered as an exception, while the common practice is to mount the block house horizontally, in which the tongue will be located on top and the groove on the bottom.

Conclusion

Before attaching a metal block house, it is necessary, as in all the cases described above, to install a crate. If you want to achieve a more durable result, then you should choose. The insulation layer under the finish is fixed with dish-shaped dowels, and if it is necessary to install a double layer of thermal insulation, you need to apply dressing so that no gaps form.