How are drywall partitions made? Building a drywall wall with your own hands is easy! Materials and tools

A popular way to divide the space of an apartment or room into parts is to build it filled with mineral wool and lined with plasterboard, that is, slabs with a gypsum core pasted over with durable building cardboard. This is a fairly simple system that you can install yourself. How about profiles?

All about the installation of plasterboard partitions:

Which drywall is suitable

First of all, you need to choose materials suitable for your tasks.

Kinds

For the decoration of city apartments and country houses, the following types are used:

• Ordinary. It is designed for rooms where the content of water vapor in the air is 30-60%.
• Moisture resistant, which is easily recognizable by the characteristic green color of the cardboard. It can be used for rooms with humidity up to 75%, primarily in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.
• Flame retardant, fire and moisture resistant, impact resistant. These are specialized products that are less commonly used in private homes. Meanwhile, impact-resistant material is a good choice for rooms where there is a possibility of mechanical impact on the walls - children's rooms, corridors. It is also suitable for supports on which it is planned to hang heavy furniture.

GKL dimensions

On sale you can find sheets with the following parameters (mm):

• Width 600 or 1200
• Length from 2000 to 4000
• Thickness 6.5; eight; 9.5; 12.5; fourteen; 16; eighteen; twenty

A popular size among consumers is 1200x2500, since larger products are more difficult to transport and move at the facility. Experts recommend taking plates with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm for sheathing to ensure the rigidity and strength of the structure. Thin products are more easily damaged, they isolate sound worse and you can’t even hang a light shelf on them.

Calculation of the number of layers

The frame is sheathed on each side with one, two or three layers of sheet material. The more, the stronger and more rigid the structure and the better its soundproofing properties - due to massiveness. But the higher its cost. Therefore, the optimal solution for a living space is two layers on each side of the structure.

Calculation of the number of sheets

How many slabs will be needed for finishing? The calculation is simple: we calculate the total area of ​​​​the interior wall on one side, without openings. If we make the sheathing in one layer, then we multiply the resulting value by two (after all, the wall has two sides). If two layers, then four. We divide this figure by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone GKL. For example, for a product with a size of 2500x1200, it is 3 m 2. Do not forget about the margin, its coefficient depends on the size of the room. When its dimensions are less than 10 m 2, it is 1.3, when less than 20 m 2 - 1.2, when more than 20 m 2 - 1.1. We multiply the previously obtained figure by this coefficient, round it up to the nearest integer and get the required number of plates.

How to choose profile sizes

Partitions are constructed from - horizontal (guides) and vertical (rack-mount). They are U-shaped, made of galvanized steel. Their parameters (mm):

• Cross-section of guides - 50x40, 75x40, 100x40, rack-mount - 50x50, 75x50, 100x50.
• Length - 3000, 3500, 4000.
• Thickness - from 0.5 to 2.

The size of the product is chosen based on the planned loads, sound insulation requirements, etc. Please note: the rack must fit snugly into the guide. For example, for a horizontal element with a section of 50x40, vertical sections of 50x50 are suitable.

Often, to save the area of ​​​​the apartment, the wall is made only 7-8 cm on a frame of galvanized steel profiles 50 × 50. Such a system is highly susceptible to vibrations, and 0.5 cm thick mineral wool is not enough to comply with building codes for sound insulation (41 dB).

The system should be assembled from 50x70 or 50x100 elements. You can also take dry knotless wooden blocks - some experts believe that this option is even better in terms of airborne sound insulation.

In addition, the thickness of the profile is also important. For the inner wall, designs of at least 0.6 mm are chosen. If you use thinner parts, then when fixing the plates, the screws can scroll, which reduces the strength of the structure. There are already products on the market, but they have insufficient rigidity and therefore should not be used. Otherwise, there is a risk of sagging.

What materials and tools will be needed

materials

1. Sound-absorbing mats - usually made of (stone fibre)
2. Damper (sealing) tape
3. Dowel-nails
4. Anchor wedges
5. Self-tapping screws with a press washer
6. Self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws) with a countersunk head
7. acrylic primer
8. Gypsum or polymer putty
9. Reinforcing paper tape

How to make a drywall partition with your own hands

Installation of drywall can be carried out only after the completion of all "wet" work at the facility. If the air in the room is abundantly saturated with moisture, then the plates will absorb it and may deform.

In addition, it is not recommended to proceed with installation immediately after the delivery of the GKL to the facility. After all, they were stored, most likely, in a damp, unheated room. If in a heated room they are immediately placed vertically and fixed on a base, they will begin to dry out unevenly, which is fraught with their curvature and the appearance of cracks on the wall surface. It is worth waiting at least 24 hours (or better - 3-4 days), placing the material in a horizontal position, and only then proceed to the main work.

markup

The first stage is the layout of the design layout. It is performed using a laser level or ruler in combination with a coloring chopping cord. First, mark the place under the partition and the doorway on the floor. Then, using a laser device or a plumb line, the contour of the structure is transferred to the walls and ceiling.

Installing guides

• Ensure that the guides are firmly attached to the base.
• Prevent the spread of vibration from the structure of the house by improving sound insulation.

To the floor and walls, horizontal beams are fixed with dowel-nails 6x40. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 100 cm (optimally - about 40 cm), moreover, at least three dowel-nails should fall on one guide. The holes for them are made with a puncher. Nails are driven with a screwdriver or - if you have experience - with the same puncher. They are recommended to be fixed to the ceiling with anchor wedges in pre-drilled holes.

You can cut the frame parts with metal shears (mechanical, electric) or an angle grinder. But be extremely careful. Burrs after cutting with scissors, as well as protruding heads of self-tapping screws, can cause irregularities. Meanwhile, the design is not designed for plastering, and with putty it is possible to “bring out” small tubercles and pits. At the same time, continuous puttying will significantly increase the complexity of the work.

Rack erection

Usually, the pitch of the vertical supports is 60 cm. In the case of a high design load on this wall or a ceiling height of more than 4 m, the pitch is reduced to 40 cm. You can also increase the rigidity in this way: make a rack of two profiles installed end to end and fastened with press washers . It can also be strengthened by horizontal jumpers. Vertical supports should be 1 cm less than the height of the room - for ease of installation and to compensate for possible shrinkage of the building. If the product is shorter than necessary, it is lengthened. To do this, one element is placed on another with an overlap of at least 50 cm and connected with self-tapping screws. In the frame, the overlaps are spaced apart in order to prevent weakening of the structure and, as a result, the appearance of cracks.

Some craftsmen fasten vertical and horizontal beams with self-tapping screws with press washers. It is not right. The hats will be turned towards the room, they will bulge and interfere during sheathing, which will ultimately adversely affect the reliability of the entire system. Alternatively, you can fasten the guides with self-tapping screws before completing the assembly of the base. And then immediately before finishing the GKL, gradually unscrew them. But this will increase the installation time.

The optimal solution is a cutter. He will connect the parts by cutting with a bend. Such fasteners do not interfere with subsequent installation. We add that the vertical supports must be leveled before fixing.

A technical error is the absence of cushioning layers between the partition and the main walls, ceilings. In this case, structural noise is transmitted to it. It is advisable to fasten the guides to the walls, ceiling and floor through elastic gaskets (made of porous rubber, cork, polyethylene foam), which will dampen vibration, make the structure more airtight and thereby help to increase the level of acoustic comfort in the rooms. In a new building, joints filled with elastic material compensate for shrinkage deformations of building elements.

Creating a doorway

Most often, it is performed using standard profiles, inside which wooden blocks are placed for reinforcement. You can also connect two racks into a box or install a special profile element 2 mm thick, which has increased strength and is suitable for massive ones. Above the opening, a horizontal jumper from a cut frame part is provided. The jumper is leveled and fixed to the racks with self-tapping screws.

An important point: you need to mark the places for the racks so that subsequently the joints do not fall on the vertical beams framing the opening. Otherwise, there is a risk of cracks appearing around it.

Soundproofing and communications

Holes for electrical wiring are cut out in the racks before installation. Cables are pulled in corrugated pipes. Holes in the GKL for socket boxes are made with metal crowns - nozzles for a screwdriver.

The space between the posts is filled with sound-absorbing mats or mineral wool rolls. They are selected based on the width of the frame.

As for the choice of rolled mineral wool, a product with a density of at least 40 kg / m 3 is suitable. Cotton wool of lesser density eventually cakes and settles.

sheathing

When performing it, the following rules must be observed:

• Use self-tapping screws of the correct length. The calculation is as follows: length \u003d sheet thickness + profile + 1 cm (for this amount, the fasteners must go into the metal part). That is, for a single-layer sheathing of 12.5 mm, self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long are used, for a two-layer one - 3.5 cm long.
• When screwing, the self-tapping screws must be recessed into the GKL strictly by 1 mm. If you do not tighten them, then they will become an obstacle when puttying. If you twist them, they can damage the core of the product, and the fastening will be unreliable. A cheap way to set the desired depth is with a limiter nozzle for a conventional screwdriver. Professionals, on the other hand, prefer a screwdriver with a limited screwing depth.
• The installation step of the self-tapping screws is no more than 25 cm. To prevent the plate from crumbling, they must be screwed in at a distance of at least 1.5 cm from its end edge and at least 1 cm from the longitudinal one.
• Often the height of the structure is greater than the length of the plasterboard. Then, with a single-layer sheathing, the plates adjacent vertically are joined on an additional jumper. Moreover, horizontally adjacent ones are mounted with an offset of 40-60 cm. When finishing in two layers, jumpers can be neglected, but the elements of the second layer should overlap the joints of the first and be spaced apart from each other.
• To avoid the appearance of cracks, it is necessary to leave a gap between the plates and the floor of at least 1 cm. A small gap is also left from above, and a separating tape can be glued at the junction of the sheathing to the ceiling.
• Drywall is cut with a special hacksaw or a construction or clerical knife. When working with a hacksaw, there will be dust and the cut will be sloppy. And when using a knife - neat and dust-free. However, it is impossible to remove the edges from the sheets with a knife at their joints (as required by the installation technology): the cut will be uneven. The edges are removed with a special plane having an angle of 22.5 °. This allows you to make a joint of materials at 45 °. If it is necessary to align the edge of the cut layer, a peeling planer is used.
• The doorway is first completely closed with a sheathing, which is then cut off along the uprights and the lintel - this way it is easier to provide the desired geometry. Thus, the upper part of the opening is always formed by L-shaped elements in order to prevent cracks from appearing.

Today, probably, not a single repair can do without drywall. It can be fully called a universal material, since it is also used for simple leveling of surfaces, as well as building certain new structures of various levels of complexity from it.

For example, this is an excellent material for the construction of internal partitions in an apartment or house, for example, in order to divide a large room into two separate rooms. Such a task is quite feasible even for a novice builder. Unless, of course, he first understands the “theory” of the question “how to make a drywall wall”, and in the course of work he begins to adhere to the technological recommendations that will be given to him in this publication.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall plasterboard structures

To begin with, it probably makes sense to briefly highlight the positive and negative sides of the plasterboard wall frame structure. Having understood them, it will be possible to determine with skill whether such a partition is suitable for a particular case or not.

So to benefits plasterboard partition structures include the following points:

• The materials used for the construction of such walls are quite light, so they will not weigh down the interfloor floors. Therefore, the assembled structure will be absolutely safe for the building.
• Drywall walls and partitions are not capital, therefore, for their construction, you do not need to issue a permit, the receipt of which is associated with the loss of a considerable amount of time, money, effort and nerves.
• Drywall is produced in several versions - these are simple sheets (GKL), moisture resistant (GKLV), fire resistant (GKLO). Lightweight sheets are produced for ceiling structures. Therefore, walls and partitions can be erected from this material in any of the rooms, including in the bathroom or near the stove or fireplace.
• The affordable cost of both the drywall itself and the components for building the frame allows them to be purchased by the family for repairs, even with a modest budget.
• It is quite possible to design and mount drywall walls that have complex decorative and useful shapes, such as arched doorways or functional niches and cabinets that allow you to refuse to buy furniture accessories.
• When leveling the walls with this material, it is not necessary to remove the old plaster.
• The construction of plasterboard walls (or when leveling the walls with plasterboard in a frame way) allows you to immediately carry out work on insulation and soundproofing.
• Electrical wiring can be hidden in the frame of the wall being built.
• There is a full opportunity to do without the involvement of a team of builders, since all work can be done independently or with one assistant.
• The material is "breathable" and environmentally friendly, which is important for the arrangement of residential premises.
• A wall or partition erected in this way is perfectly smooth, suitable for any facing material, be it wallpaper, paint or ceramic tiles.

Is it possible, drywall in the bathroom? Oh sure!

With proper installation and special surface preparation, GKLV sheets will not be afraid of the specific conditions of a bathroom or a combined bathroom. And perfectly smooth walls are an excellent opportunity to tile them. Instructions for such a finish are contained in a special publication of our portal.

Drywall prices

drywall

Now, for the objectivity of the picture, it is necessary to consider and negative sides drywall construction. It is advisable to know about them in advance, so that later, already during the operation of the rooms, you will not encounter some unexpected inconveniences. :

• A wall made of this material will not be able to withstand hanging any heavy objects directly on drywall, since the sheets are rather thin (12.5 mm), fragile, and the gypsum itself is not particularly strong. Therefore, if in the future there is a plan to hang on the wall, for example, a TV or a wall lamp, then their location must be determined at the design planning stage, and additional jumpers made of a metal profile with wooden tabs should be provided for fastening.
• The wall structure will have a minimum thickness of about 80 mm, and often much more. Thus, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is somewhat hidden. But think about it, what if you use other materials for the partition? Almost any other will give even more thickness. Therefore, this shortcoming can be called very doubtful.

As you can see, these shortcomings are completely solvable problems. From which we can conclude that a plasterboard wall for an apartment is the best option, if necessary, dividing a room into separate zones, or even isolated rooms.

How to build a plasterboard wall yourself?

Materials for the construction of plasterboard walls

After drawing up a project or drawing according to the dimensions taken from the location of the wall, it is necessary to make a list of all the necessary materials so that during the work it does not turn out that something is missing and you do not have to interrupt work and run to the nearest hardware store.

Illustration	Brief characteristics and purpose of materials
	Guide metal profiles KNAUF, for example PN 100 × 40 mm for fixing on the ceiling and floors. 100 - profile width in millimeters, which will set the thickness of the frame. If you add two more thicknesses of drywall, then the thickness of the wall will be at least 125 mm. If this is a lot, you can use other similar profiles with a smaller width, for example, PN 50 × 40 (finished wall thickness - 75 mm), or PN 75 × 40 (wall 100 mm thick)
	Rack metal profiles for vertical racks and lintels installed inside the structure. The illustration shows KNAUF PS 100 × 50 mm, but, as mentioned above, narrower ones, PS 50 × 50 or PS 75 × 50, can be selected.
	Sealing self-adhesive sealing tape Dichtungsband of appropriate width (95, 70 or 50 mm, depending on the weight of the selected profiles). It is intended for gluing on rails and rack profiles for their tight mating with walls, ceiling and floor. Thanks to this tape, the design acquires soundproofing qualities - the effect of impact noise transmission is significantly reduced.
	GKL wall drywall sheets 1200 × 2500 × 12.5 mm in size. For the bathroom, as already mentioned, GKLV is taken, and if the cocked wall is located in close proximity to the stove or fireplace, then it is better to use GKLO.
	Reinforcing perforated paper tape for drywall joints. Fiberglass mesh can also be used, specially produced with narrow tapes, and even often with a self-adhesive side.
	Dowel-nails size 6×40mm for fastening rails to load-bearing surfaces.
	Self-tapping screws for drywall for metal - for fastening profiles to each other (you can use "bugs" or self-tapping screws with a wide press head, as shown in the illustration), and for fixing drywall sheets to the structure. The most popular self-tapping screws are 3.5 × 35 mm or 3.5 × 25 mm. No longer needed
	Primer for drywall can be transparent or white. The latter is most often used in cases where the surface is being prepared for wallpapering.
	Putty for drywall, used for sealing joints and holes from self-tapping screws, and then for continuous application in a thin layer on the wall surface. Putty can be purchased in paste form (much more expensive) or dry form (requires preparation).
	Mineral insulation with a thickness corresponding to the thickness of the intended wall. For living rooms, it is better to choose medium-density basalt material. Insulation grades are directly intended for vile purposes. For example, ISOVER Warm House, KNAUF Acoustic Partition, URSA PUREONE, ROCKWOOL Light Butts SCANDIC, ACOUSTIC GROUPE Shumanet BM and others have proven themselves well.
	Wooden beam, with a section that will correspond to the width of metal profiles for bookmarks, as well as to form a door frame.

Mounting tools

Without the necessary tools, as you know, it will not be possible to carry out any construction work. To build a drywall wall, you will need a minimum tool kit, which includes:

illustration	Purpose of the tool
	Laser (better) or regular bubble building level for accurate marking. The level is also necessary for the installation of the frame - to control the correct installation of parts.
	The paint cord will allow you to quickly and accurately beat off a straight line on any surface.
	A plumb line, even with a laser level, is still able to help - with its help, you can quickly and accurately project the lines of the wall from the ceiling to the floor, so that the partition will be installed perfectly vertically, without tilting.
	Roulette is necessary for any construction work; when building a plasterboard wall, you can’t do without it either.
	A construction square will be required for marking the wall, marking and cutting profiles and drywall sheets. Squares are produced in different versions and you should choose the one that is more convenient for work.
	A hammer will be required when attaching guides to solid surfaces (ceiling, floor, walls). They clog dowel-nails.
	A special drywall knife or even its stationery "brother" - for cutting sheets.
	A hacksaw or an electric jigsaw can also be used to cut sheets.
	Scissors for metal or "grinder" for cutting a profile. Hand tools are safer to use and do not damage the galvanized layer when cutting.
	A puncher is necessary if the profiles have to be fixed to concrete surfaces. Sometimes it is quite possible to do without it, if the material to which the profiles are attached is “pliable”.
	A screwdriver will help you quickly cope with the installation of profiles and drywall to the frame.
	A set of spatulas, 3÷4 pieces, from the widest (about 400 mm) to narrow (50 mm). necessary at different stages of the wall puttying.
	Roller or wide brush - for applying a primer to drywall before finishing it
	A construction grater with interchangeable nozzles is needed for grouting the joints of the hardening of the putty composition, for smoothing the wall after puttying.
	Prosekatel. It is good to have this tool on hand, as it will greatly speed up the connection of metal frame elements. If it is not there, the profiles can be connected with metal screws.

Some of the nuances of installing plasterboard partitions

Before proceeding to a step-by-step examination of the process of erecting a drywall wall, it is necessary to consider the features of some works so as not to return to these issues further.

• The frame for plasterboard sheathing can be made not only from a galvanized metal profile, but also from an ordinary wooden beam. The second option will cost a little more, but the structural strength will, perhaps, even be higher.

If a beam is chosen for the frame, then the horizontal jumpers are attached to the vertical posts with metal corners, which will be required to fix one part four pieces (two on each side). They must hold the bar both above and below for reliability and stability.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

1. Details of the strapping of the frame (frame), fixed to the main surfaces of the room.
2. Vertical racks of the frame - are made necessarily from a single bar.
3. Horizontal lintels of the frame, giving the structure rigidity.
4. Jumpers are fixed on vertical posts and strapping beam using metal corners fixed with self-tapping screws.
5. Frame fastenings to capital surfaces - dowel-nails.

• Due to the fact that the standard width of the drywall sheet is 1200 mm, and it must be fixed at least along three lines, along the edges and along the center line, the vertical posts are positioned so that the distance between their axes is 600 mm.

• GKL sheets are fixed to the frame using special self-tapping screws for metal or wood (depending on the frame material). The head of the self-tapping screw, after screwing it in, must be recessed into the drywall by 2 ÷ 3 mm - for this, special bits for a screwdriver with a “skirt” limiter are convenient.

The space above the cap is left to fill it with putty - so the fasteners will become completely invisible. Sheets are fixed to all racks and lintels of the frame, self-tapping screws are screwed in in increments of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.

Prices for waterproof drywall

waterproof drywall

• It is very important to cut drywall correctly: if you do not know how this process is performed, you can ruin the material. A broken or even only slightly broken sheet is no longer used for mounting on the wall as a whole. True, from its whole part it will be possible to subsequently cut out the necessary parts of smaller sizes.

To get an even fragment of the GCR of the required size, you must first mark it on a whole sheet. A line is drawn along the marked points. Then, applying a metal ruler to it, a cut is made along it with pressure with a sharp knife.

At this stage, it is important to cut the top layer of drywall. After that, the sheet is laid so that the cut line is on the edge of the table. A slight hand pressure is applied to the area protruding beyond the countertop, due to which the gypsum layer breaks exactly along the incision line. It remains only to cut the bottom layer of cardboard with a knife.

• If you have to join two pieces of a sheet that do not have a factory chamfer, then you need to make cuts along their edges with a knife or a special planer. The total width of the slices should be approximately 10 mm. This groove is necessary to fill it with putty, which, together with the reinforcing tape, will bind the sheets together.

• If it is planned to arrange a doorway on the wall being erected (and this is how it most often happens), it should be strengthened with a beam. This is done in different ways:

- you can immediately use a beam instead of a galvanized profile that forms an opening;

- wooden parts can be embedded in the interior of the metal profile;

- instead of one metal rack on each side of the opening, two are installed, at a distance of 50 mm from each other, and then a wooden door frame is installed in such a reinforced doorway.

• Experts recommend fixing two layers of drywall to the installed wall frame - this will increase the strength and soundproofing of the structure.

• If it is necessary to form parts with corners from a metal profile, cuts on its walls must be made at an angle. It is easier to carry out this process with metal scissors, but you can make cuts with a grinder, observing the highest accuracy.

To make the metal bend even, the cuts on both side walls must be the same.

The lower part shown in the figure is often made, for example, to form the lintel of a doorway.

• When installing drywall sheets on the frame, it is imperative to leave a deformation gap 10 ÷ 12 mm wide between the gypsum board and the floor surface. To simplify this task and make the gap even, before installing the sheet in place on the floors, you can lay several scraps of the same drywall. After attaching the sheet to the frame, these liners are removed. And the gap, depending on the type of room, is filled either with sealant (for example, in a bathroom) or with mounting foam (in rooms with normal operating conditions).

Construction of a drywall wall - step by step

The table below will step by step show the process of building an internal drywall wall.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first stage of work is always the marking of the surfaces of the room in which the wall will be installed. This task is best solved with the help of a laser plane builder. He will immediately determine and outline the necessary lines on the ceiling, floors and opposite walls. If this device is not at hand, then a building level, a plumb line, a metal ruler and a marker are used for marking. First, a line on the floor surface is determined. To do this, the same distance is laid off from the parallel wall in several places along the side walls. Then, a masking cord is stretched from one point to another, and with its help a line is beaten off on the surface. It should form a right angle with one and the second side wall. Next, the line must be fixed by drawing a marker along it, having previously laid the ruler.
	Focusing on the horizontal line of the floor, vertical projections on the side walls of the wall are determined from it - the plumb line will be the most accurate in this matter. The top line of the future wall is determined by connecting vertical lines on opposite walls on the ceiling - it is also easiest to beat it off with a paint cord. Ceiling and floor lines must be perfectly in the same vertical plane. You can check their correct location using a plumb line - as shown in the illustration.
	Now, on the line drawn on the floor, the location of the future doorway should be noted, according to the draft. As a rule, the width of interior openings is 800 mm. There may be other sizes, but when leaving the opening, both the width of the door and the parameters of the door frame are taken into account.
	The next step is the preparation of profiles for mounting the frame. First, the necessary measurements are made and, if necessary, cutting. It is better to immediately prepare all the structural elements that will be attached to the capital surfaces. Then, on those planes of the profiles with which they will be pressed against the surfaces of the walls, floor and ceiling, a sealing tape is glued.
	First, the guide is attached to the floor along the line marked on its surface. To do this, the profile is laid on the floor, 100 mm recede from the wall - the center of the hole is outlined. Then the first hole is drilled through the profile in the floor.
	A dowel-nail is immediately installed and driven into the hole with a hammer. Thanks to this precaution, the profile will be fixed to the floor in the required position, and it will be much easier to drill the remaining holes.
	The profile is fastened with an approximate step of 500 mm. When drilling the following holes, you should make sure that the profile does not move from the drawn line.
	Fastening the edge of the profile facing the doorway is carried out with an indent from it of 200 mm. This is necessary in order to leave free space for fixing the vertical reinforcing and forming the doorway racks that are installed in this place. So that the dowel-nail head does not interfere with installation.
	Next, the metal profile is fixed to the ceiling. It is desirable that the profile be solid, but if it has to be made up of two segments, then their joint should not be above the doorway.
	When the horizontal profiles on the floor and ceiling are fixed, they are connected by vertical guides fixed to the walls. Vertical racks are inserted inside the horizontal rails. Their fastening is carried out using a cutter or self-tapping screws for metal.
	The next step is the marking and installation of vertical rack profiles. As mentioned above, a distance of 600 mm must be maintained between the center line of two adjacent profiles. The racks are inserted into the guide profile and fixed with a cutter or metal screws. When installing racks, it is very important to control their vertical position using a building level or plumb line. Particular attention should be paid to the posts forming the doorway, as they must be fixed perfectly perpendicular to the rails.
	Racks framing the doorway should be fixed more rigidly in the structure. It is desirable that they be additionally reinforced with a wooden beam, which is inserted and fixed inside the metal profile. For the extreme pillars of the doorway, it is more convenient to use reinforced perforated profiles, but ordinary rack profiles are also suitable.
	Special durable perforated corners are screwed to the edges of the extreme racks, they are fixed with screws and nuts, but the latter are not completely tightened, leaving the possibility of adjusting the height of the rack at the installation site. The ability to adjust the height is only possible if a perforated profile and corners are used - that is why they are more convenient for installation.
	The rack is installed on the corners in the guide profiles on the floor and ceiling.
	The end posts must be checked for perfect verticality using a building level.
	After that, holes in the floor are drilled through the holes in the corners through the guide profile - for dowel-nails.
	Dowel-nails are installed in the holes and hammered into the base with a hammer.
	Next, the nuts are finally tightened on the fixing screws. Thus, the lower part of the rack will be fixed.
	After that, the upper side of the rack is fixed in the same way on the upper guide profile. That is, two holes are drilled in the ceiling through the corner and the guide profile, through which the dowel-nails are driven in. Then, after a final revision of the correct position of the drain, the nuts on the fixing screws are tightened.
	Further, the height of the doorway is determined and marked on the vertical posts. Usually it lies in the range from 2100 to 2300 mm. The width between the uprights is measured - it is necessary for the manufacture of a horizontal jumper that limits the opening in height.
	A horizontal jumper is made - usually from a guide profile. You will need a segment, the length of which is the sum of the width of the doorway and the side folds, with which the jumper will be attached to the vertical posts. The length of the folds can vary from 200 to 300 mm. The section of the profile is marked, and then cuts are made along the markings with metal scissors. Then, the side parts of the profile are bent at a right angle relative to the horizontal part of the part. An example of a cut was previously shown in the illustration when the basic principles of installation were considered.
	The finished jumper is installed in the place marked for it, while its bent parts are put on vertical racks. Further, using the level, its horizontalness is checked.
	Fastening of the jumper is made with self-tapping screws, on both sides of the racks. You will need two or three self-tapping screws on each side of the mount, depending on the length of the folds chosen. Additionally, it is recommended to strengthen the jumper with a wooden tab, which is laid and fixed in the horizontal part of the jumper.
	The completion of strengthening the structure of the doorway is the installation of vertical lintels that will connect the ceiling guide and the horizontal lintel that limits the doorway. As a rule, two parts are used for this. If a wooden tab is installed in the lintel, then the edges of the vertical posts are cut, and fixation is made outside the horizontal lintel. If the wooden tab was not used, then the vertical racks are inserted inside the upper and lower rails, and then fixed with a notcher or self-tapping screws. The distance between the main vertical post and the secondary reinforcing one should be approximately 150 mm, which will also add additional rigidity to the structure.
	When the frame is completely ready, inside the structure, if necessary, wiring is laid, the locations of sockets and switches are determined, cables are connected to these points. To make the wiring safe, it is recommended to pass the cables through a special corrugated insulating tube. All connecting nodes must be well insulated.
	After completing the installation of the frame, you can proceed to its sheathing with drywall. Installation of sheets usually starts from the main wall. The bottom sheet of material is attached first, and at the same time, one should not forget about the deformation gaps that should be left between the gypsum board and the main surfaces. If the first vertical row of sheets has horizontal joints, then in the next row the joints should “scatter” at a distance of at least 400 mm from the joints of the sheets of the first row. The distance between the horizontal lintel of the doorway and the nearest joint between the sheets must be at least 150 mm.
	In order to prepare a part that will be fixed above the doorway and to the side pillar, dimensions are taken from its planned location. And then a fragment of the required configuration is cut out from the GKL according to the parameters taken. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the location of the vertical posts above the doorway, as well as the fact that the edge of the panel to be cut out should extend half the width of the first or second post - for fastening with self-tapping screws.
	Further, the second side of the doorway is sheathed - the work is carried out according to the same principle. After that, the next row of sheets is installed and so on - to the end. The last sheet of mail will probably also need to be cut to width. At the same time, the recommended spacing of the joints is observed - as mentioned above. After completing the installation of drywall, those edges of the sheets on which there are no factory chamfers are cut at an angle - this was discussed earlier.
	The next step is to seal the joints with putty, on which a reinforcing tape is glued. Another layer of putty is applied on top of the tape. On this, the lower layer of drywall, it is not yet necessary to close the self-tapping screws with putty.
	After the putty composition dries, a second layer of drywall is mounted on the wall (if it was so provided by the project). When installing it, it is necessary to ensure that the joints of the lower skin layer do not coincide with the joints of the upper one, both horizontally and vertically. Trimming edges, puttying and reinforcing the joints of the outer layers of the skin is carried out somewhat later, already at the same time on one and the other side of the mounted wall.
	If it was planned to install a socket in the wall, then the socket for the socket is drilled at this stage - this will require a special drywall drill bit. Then, cables are brought out through the hole, and a socket is installed in which a socket or switch will be mounted. Drywall sockets have a special design, and are fixed by tightening the screws that press the stoppers from the back of the cladding.
	Having completed the sheathing of one side of the wall, on the other side, insulation material is laid between the vertical posts. It should fit as tightly as possible to the elements of the frame. After laying the insulation, the second side of the wall is sheathed with drywall. It is clear that approximately according to the same algorithm as the first side.
	When the second side of the structure is sheathed with two layers of drywall, on both sides the edges are trimmed at the joints of sheets that do not have a chamfer. Then they must be treated with a primer. Next, putty is applied to the joints, a reinforcing tape is glued on it, on which a layer of putty is applied. Further, puttying and reinforcement of the lines of the joints is carried out, and besides this, the holes from the caps of the fixing screws are also processed with putty. When the putty dries, the places of its application should be leveled with a grater.
	The next step is first dedusting, and then - continuous priming of the surface. This stage of work is preparatory for the final leveling of the entire surface with putty
	Under any finish coat, a plasterboard wall needs to be puttied with a thin layer of mortar. This must be done so that between, for example, wallpaper and cardboard, there is a layer of putty. Otherwise, during the next repair, when removing the old, boring or worn-out decorative wall covering, part of the cardboard will also come off with it. That is, you can seriously damage the integrity of the entire wall. The putty layer, after it dries, must be well sanded to perfect smoothness - both for painting the wall and for wallpapering. An exception can only be made for ceramic tiling - perfect smoothness is not needed here. After the wall is completely leveled by grinding, it is primed again - already for the subsequent finishing.

How is a plasterboard wall prepared for finishing?

In the table, the instructions were only slightly affected by the attention to the operation of preparing the sheathed wall for finishing. And this is an important question that requires considerable skill and deserves separate consideration. Therefore, we invite the reader to go to the article-instruction of our portal.

* * * * * * *

So, the construction of a frame wall-partition with plasterboard sheathing is a completely feasible task even for a novice builder. Feel free to get down to business - and with diligence, everything should work out!

We will conclude the article with a video in which the masters share their secret of building a partition with soundproofing abilities.

Video: Drywall wall with soundproofing

Hello, hello, our brave plasterboarders. Today you will find a cool tutorial on the topic of drywall partitions. Speaking specifically, we will disassemble a single-layer partition on a single frame - C 111 according to the Knauf classification, because. such partitions are most widespread. We will deal with the general principles of their installation, how to form a doorway, an external corner and pairing several partitions with each other. As an example, we will take a corner partition with a doorway, such as pantries and dressing rooms (essentially moth nurseries) are usually enclosed to store pickles / jams and all sorts of junk that is long overdue to be disposed of.

Please note that work with drywall can only be carried out after the plaster and screed in the apartment have completely dried.

To begin with, let's get acquainted with the special profiles that serve to form the frame of the partitions. These profiles are called rack-mount. To be more precise, there are exactly rack-mounted PSs (CW), and there are also special wide guides PN (UW) for them. Dimensions of guide profiles: 40×50, 75, 100 mm. In our example, profiles with a width of 100 mm will be used. The letters C and U in their bourgeois name indicate the shape of their section. As you can see in the picture, the guide shelves are straight, like the horns of the letter U, and the rack ones have rounded edges, like the C. By the way, the side edges of the profiles are called the shelves, and the back walls are called the walls. The second letter of the overseas name means that the profiles are rack-mounted, i.e. wall from the German "Wand".

Rack and guide profiles Knauf

They are in paired version.

Once again, we repeat that you can only use a profile with a metal thickness of 0.55-0.6 mm, for example, Knauf. They are good not only because of the rigidity, but also because their design allows you to insert them into each other, thereby achieving their elongation and reinforcement on the sides of the doorway. Profiles from other manufacturers may not be able to do this. In the walls of the PN there are already ready-made holes with a diameter of 8 mm for dowels.

Dimensions of rack profiles: 50×50, 75, 100 mm. For single-layer partitions, the 50th posts are rather weak, so we advise you all to take the 75th or 100th. In the walls of the Knauf rack profiles there are 3 pairs of closely spaced holes with a diameter of 33 mm for laying wires.

1. Guide profiles KNAUF PN 100×40 mm
2. Rack profiles KNAUF PS 100×50 mm
3. Sealing tape Dichtungsband
4. Separating tape
5. "Dowel-nails" (another name is "Quick installation") 6 × 40 mm
6. Cord breaking device
7. Laser level or bubble level
8. Rule aluminum 2.5 m
9. Gyproc plasterboard sheets 3000x1200x12.5
10. Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
11. Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
12. Roulette
13. A hammer
14. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code)
15. Perforator + drill
16. Screwdriver and cutter
17. Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 × 25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
18. Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2×13mm or shorter
19. Metal shears or grinder
20. Mineral wool ISOVER, KNAUF Insulation, URSA, Rockwool, Shumanet, etc.
21. Narrow and wide spatulas

On the next slide on the left - a self-tapping screw with a press washer, it serves to fasten the profiles together. There is an option with a drill and without. They are designated, respectively, LB and LN. On the slide - option LN. In our case, they are needed only if there is no cutter. On the right is a drywall screw. More precisely, it is all the same for metal, but it already serves to fasten sheets of the Civil Code to the profiles. Therefore, most often it is called that - a drywall screw. Has a secret, so-called. carob, head. Designated - TN. There is also a TB, with a drill at the end, but you can do without it, 0.6 mm steel TNs will easily be taken.

Self-tapping screws for mounting structures made of plasterboard

Do-it-yourself instructions for installing a plasterboard partition.

Step 1. Markup

For example, let our partition be a continuation of an existing wall. It is highly desirable to pre-align the beacons. We draw a line-the continuation of the wall on the ceiling, we make a right angle with a simple square. This line is the inner border of our future partition, taking into account its final dimensions. But we first need to mount the frame, and for it the dimensions are different. It is not necessary to draw your own lines for the frame, you can make everything easier. How? Find out very soon...

Marking lines on the ceiling

For now, we transfer the lines from the ceiling to the floor using a plumb line and a cord breaker, or a laser level.

Transfer markings to the floor

And now in front of you is the very simplified way of marking the PN.

Mark holes for fasteners

The bottom line is that pieces of drywall are sewn onto the guide profiles cut to size, which are already set along the lines. With this approach, the risk of error will be minimal. We mean that later, when the Civil Code sheets are sewn on, the rule will not “jump” at the wall/partition boundary. Pieces of GKL should be sewn flush with the walls of the PN. We expose the profile with these pieces along the line and put marks with a pencil or marker where we will have holes for attaching the PN to the base.

From a different angle

Step 2. Fixing the PN

Then, according to our marks, holes are drilled in the base, and a sealing tape is necessarily glued to the profiles. Its absence is capable of completely ruining the entire soundproofing of the future partition. With it, the adjunction to the base will be very tight, which also affects the crack resistance of the structure. The fastening itself is carried out with dowel-nails using an ordinary hammer. Fast and strong.

Attaching the profile to the dowel-nails

Guides on the floor

Near the opening

On the ceiling

We do not unscrew the pieces of GKL from the profiles until we fix the PN at all the necessary points. Often there are situations when the holes available in the PN are not enough. In these cases, they should be drilled independently, and you can do it in one go - through the profile to the base. The main thing is to carefully monitor that the boundaries of the GKL pieces clearly coincide with the marking lines. After fixing the guides on the sides of the doorway, I advise you to check them with the rule and make sure that they lie exactly on the same line.

You need to make at least three attachment points per profile. Even if it is 30 cm long. Usually, the fastening pitch is made in the region of 50 cm. If the floor is uneven, the pitch is reduced. Sometimes you even have to divide the PN into several segments. We do the same on the ceiling. Then we unscrew the pieces of GKL, but do not throw them away, they will still be useful to us ...

Step 3. Mounting wall substations

Fastening racks to walls

We cut the rack profiles in height, insert them into the guides close to the walls and drill holes in the walls right through them. Try to maintain a step of about 50 cm, no more. We hammer the dowel-nails into these holes again. Do not forget to glue the walls of the profiles with sealing tape! And control them by the rule, they should not be bent. By the way, the height of the substation must be less than the height of the ceilings in the room, at least 1 centimeter. They should not support the ceiling.

The length of the racks is 1 cm less than the height of the ceiling

As you can see, there is some distance between the rack profile and the floor.

Step 4 Installing the frame posts

The rack profiles of the frame are installed in increments of 60 cm. If tiles are laid on the partition, then in increments of 40 cm. The profiles of the doorway are extraordinary, and they do not affect the pitch of the remaining substations. The slide shows the profiles set at 60 and 80 cm from the wall. Near PS just forms a doorway.

Partition frame posts

To reliably form an opening, the side PSs are made double, that is, one PS is inserted into the other. Of course, this is done in such a way that the holes in the walls of these profiles coincide in height. Inserting the PS into each other is not an easy task, sometimes you have to walk on them with your feet so that they snap into place along the entire length. It turns out that on the slide you see 3 profiles, but in fact there are 4 of them.

PS are set in one direction - with the wall to the corner from which the plasterboard sheathing will begin. The maximum weight of the door leaf that a pair of PS-100 can withstand is 40 kg. Rack profiles are installed strictly vertically. Their length should be 1 cm less than the height of the ceilings. And the holes in all profiles must be at the same height. Profiles can be fixed to the rails using a cutter or self-tapping screws with a press washer (temporarily). Before patching the GKL, all self-tapping screws must be unscrewed.

Racks in place

Yes, PS are installed in one direction, because the fastening of sheets should begin from that part of the profile shelf, which is closer to its wall. If you do the opposite, the screws will jam the profile shelf, and it may bend. On the slide you see an almost finished partition frame. Let's take a look at how the outside corner is properly formed...

Forming the outer corner

Frame from another angle

One of the rack profiles is turned with the wall outward, and the second one stands with a shelf towards us. A distance equal to the thickness of the GKL was left between them, we laid it at the stage of fixing the PN. Thus, the GK sheet on the inside of the partition will wind up, as it were, into its depths. At the end of the article, the outer corner of the fully finished partition will be shown in section.

Step 5 Jumper

Jumper from PN

It remains for us to make a jumper for the doorway. It is made from a guide profile by making an oblique incision of its shelves and bending a part of its length by 5-7 cm. The slide clearly shows how it will look. That is, you will need to cut a piece of PN 10-14 cm longer than the width of the opening. Cut and fold it symmetrically. On each side, the jumper is attached to the side posts with 2-3 LN screws.

Installing a jumper in the frame

Now our frame is completely finished. It is possible to pass electric cables through the frame. But you should not bring them inside the profiles, as they can be pierced with TN screws when sheathing the GKL.

Step 6. GKL sheathing

Sheathing the frame with drywall

BEFORE jumpers

There are several rules here.

• We have already mentioned the first one - you cannot join sheets on the side profiles of the opening.
• Secondly, cruciform joints of the “+” type are unacceptable, only of the “t” type.
• Thirdly, the joints of the sheets on the inside and outside should be horizontally shifted by a profile step, and vertically by at least 40 cm. On the slide, you can see the very pieces of drywall that we used for marking. Now they serve us as props. After all, the sheets of the Civil Code cannot be placed directly on the floor, they must be raised above it by about 1 cm.
• And they should not reach the ceiling either, about half a centimeter. This is the fourth rule.

To fix the drywall to the double posts of the opening, you can use small metal drills. Otherwise, very often self-tapping screws simply jam the inside of the profile. First, drill holes through the gypsum board, then screw the screws into them. Of course, sheets can only be joined horizontally on profiles, which means that we must make jumpers from PS at the joints. See how they look on the next slide.

PS jumpers

These are segments of conventional rack profiles. To fix them, again, you need to start from the side of the shelf, which is closer to the wall. In the matter of mounting the jumpers, it is desirable to have an assistant who will hold the sections of the profiles while you turn the screws in them. As soon as all the jumpers are placed, it is possible to lay soundproofing plates (mineral wool) between the profiles. We like ISOVER the most. When laying, we try not to leave unfilled areas. It should be cut off with a margin of about 5 cm so that it abuts against the profiles and thus keeps in the frame. When working with mineral wool, be sure to use goggles, a respirator and gloves!

Sheathing process

Sheathing process 2

Finished skin

The pitch of the screws is about 20-25 cm. On the jumpers, it is advisable to twist them more often, after 10-15 cm. Make sure that the heads of the screws are deepened into the sheet, but do not pierce the cardboard. If the cardboard is pierced, the screw should be twisted. More importantly, the screws must enter strictly at right angles. They must be at least 15 mm from the edge of the end edge of the sheet and at least 10 mm from the longitudinal edge. By the way, GKL can only be mounted in a vertical position! If a stretch ceiling is planned in the room, it is advisable to mount PS mortgages under it in the partition, into which we recommend additionally inserting a beam of the appropriate size.

I also recommend screwing self-tapping screws into the jumpers on both sides of the partition, and not just from the side of the joint. It is advisable to adjust the location of the sheets on the outer corner so that they lie on it with the factory edge. Then, when we install a protective corner on it, it will deepen and the plane will not deteriorate. Of course, all progressive mankind has long been using a special corner-proof paper tape, Sheetrock, for example. But we know that it’s hard to find one in our country, so our Stone Age has dragged on, and we still use outdated metal corners. So, the partition is assembled.

And here are the promised pairings:

Right outside corner

Cruciform conjugation

T-shaped interface

And here is the video from Knauf:

In contact with

Drywall is a building material for walls and ceilings. Most often it is used for leveling the surface or for mounting partitions. A rounded shape is not a very common option, but sometimes it is a great way to decorate a room in an original way. It is advisable to mount a round wall when you need to slightly increase the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone room at the expense of another. It is also a great option to smooth out sharp corners. It has been proven that the protruding parts of the layout are more susceptible to mechanical damage than the rounded ones. And if you have small children, it is also much safer.

Required materials and tools

To make a rounded partition, you will need drywall sheets with a thickness of 6.8 or 9.5 mm. There are also thicker plates, but they are not suitable for our purposes. You will also need a profile on which drywall sheets will be attached. You will also need yaminvata, as well as screws or self-tapping screws for fasteners.

From the tools, prepare a hacksaw, a grinder, a construction compass, metal shears, a pencil, a level, a needle roller, a screwdriver, a square, a construction knife. This set will be quite enough to implement the idea.

How to make a round wall of drywall with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

Carefully thought out step-by-step actions will lead to the desired result. To begin with, determine the exact place where the partition will stand and roughly estimate its dimensions. And after preparing all the tools and materials, you can proceed with the installation.

Stage 1. Template preparation

The template is made from an ordinary piece of cardboard, plywood, and best of all - their piece of drywall. It is necessary to carefully measure the required bending radius, and then, using a construction compass, draw a semicircle on the material. We cut out the shape with a hacksaw or a construction knife - the template is ready.

Stage 2. Markup

Attach the template to the walls to be joined and, using a simple pencil, make markings on the floor. In this case, the flat side of the workpiece should be inside the room. Strictly parallel, the same markup should be done on the ceiling. If drawing a semicircle is difficult enough, you can simply screw the cardboard blank with a couple of screws to keep it in place. Another option is to fix a cardboard template on the floor, and on top - its trimmings of the same shape. The position of the templates above and below must be exactly the same.

Stage 3. Preparing the guides

For the installation of a drywall wall, a metal profile is suitable, which must be correctly bent. To do this is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. For. To give the profile an arcuate shape, you need to mark it every 5 cm and draw lines along it. Along these lines, using a grinder, make cuts on one of the sides of the profile. And then cut the base with scissors. Thanks to these manipulations, the metal profile can now be easily bent into an arc of the desired shape and size. Make two such blanks - for the floor and for the ceiling. The arc must match the drawn lines.

Stage 4. Mounting the frame

Attach the previously prepared arcs from metal guides to the ceiling and floor using self-tapping screws. Now you can insert vertical frame elements into them. It is not necessary to make a continuous crate, but the smaller the gaps between the vertical profile, the smoother the semicircular wall will turn out. The guides must be strictly vertical, without slopes and bends.

In order to simplify the further installation of drywall on the frame, make markings on the floor exactly where the profile is located.

Stage 5. Installing the outer side of the wall

In order for drywall to take the desired shape, it must be moistened with water. Despite the fact that the outer parts of the material consist of ordinary cardboard, it will not soften or fall apart. Leave the plasterboard sheets for about 20 minutes so that they can be completely saturated with moisture. After that, they must be handled very carefully so as not to tear or damage the top coating.

Take the drywall sheet and attach it to the vertical profiles. Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, screw the edge of the sheet to the first profile, and then carefully bend the drywall until it touches the second post. After attaching to the second rail, repeat the procedure until you complete the installation.

Long sheets are inconvenient to mount, and in the process they are easy to damage. Cut drywall in advance so that the wall consists of two horizontal layers.

Stage 6. Soundproof layer

Mineral wool is an excellent soundproofing material. In addition, it is very easy to lay it in the gaps between the guides. The thickness of the soundproof layer will be equal to the thickness of the metal profile. Cut mineral wool slabs into thin strips so that they are removed between the racks. It is not necessary to fasten them in a special way, they will hold perfectly anyway. It is even better if the mineral wool partially goes inside the guides.

Soundproofing is optional, but then be prepared for the fact that the hollow wall will let through and even amplify even the slightest noise in the next room.

Stage 7. Installing the inside of the wall

The installation of the inner part of the arc is similar to the fastening of the outer side of the wall. To begin with, you should also moisten the drywall boards and wait for them to soften. And after about 20 minutes, you can proceed to the installation. For convenience, a needle roller is used, which rolls the inside of the gypsum board until the desired bend is obtained. Attach the sheet to the extreme rack of the frame and attach it with screws or self-tapping screws. Next, continue to firmly press the already curved sheet against the guides and secure it. As in the case of the outer skin, it is also advisable to make the inner skin in two rows in order to avoid cracking and breaking of the plates.

Stage 8. Installation of the second layer of drywall

To obtain a solid and reliable construction, plasterboard partitions are made of several layers of material. On the already finished semicircular sheathing, you need to attach another layer of drywall. Here, the actions will be absolutely similar to the installation of the first sheets, but things will go much faster and easier. Moisten the drywall, wait for it to soften, and work with a spiked roller to make it bend better. First, fix the sheets on the outside, and then on the inside of the wall, while it is important not to get screws into those places where they already exist. Sheets are fixed on the previously fixed drywall.

Stage 9. Alignment

In order to perform further finishing of the round wall, it must first be leveled. This will require a putty suitable for drywall work. With its help, you need to close up all the joints between the sheets, as well as the places where the drywall sheet is fixed with screws. When the composition dries, it must be sanded to perfect smoothness.

The drywall wall is ready for finishing. If the alignment is done well, then even thin paper wallpapers can be glued to such a wall. In general, a plasterboard partition can be finished in any way possible.

Despite the fact that the installation process is not difficult, the advice of professionals will help you avoid mistakes and increase the efficiency and speed of work.

• When installing a rounded wall, the main thing is a thorough development of the project, including all the nuances of lighting, the arrangement of interior doors and communications.
• To wet drywall sheets, it is advisable to use a spray gun, with which uniform spraying is achieved.
• When choosing drywall, consider the type of room where the rounded wall will be installed. For an ordinary room - a bedroom, a living room, a nursery, an office - a standard GKL sheet designed for dry rooms is ideal. It is easy to give it the desired shape. For rooms with high humidity, use moisture-resistant GKLV material.
• When mounting the sheet to the guides, try to wrap the screws in a checkerboard pattern, this will increase the strength of the structure, the drywall sheets will not hang on the frame.
• If you are planning to wallpaper or paint your wall, pay close attention to the finish of the drywall sheets.

Installation of a rounded plasterboard partition is easy to do with your own hands. After studying the theory, you need to draw up a design project directly for your room. A step-by-step master class for installing a rounded drywall partition is presented in the video tutorial

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - you can divide any living space into functional zones with your own hands, dividing it with frame partitions sheathed with drywall and installing a door.

Anatomy of a drywall construction

Despite the interior features, your design intent, as well as the location and size of the drywall partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. They are based on a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the point of installation of the doorway. To improve the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the design. Mounted and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The frame from the profile is filled with insulation and sheathed with plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions, sheathed with gypsum boards, are used to divide or zoning space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are mounted in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures sheathed with drywall sheets have been replacing brick or wood partitions for a long time and with great success due to a number of characteristic advantages:

• Material properties. A durable metal profile allows you to mount light partition frames of any shape and size, which do not create additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material that has been specially treated to improve fire and moisture resistance. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with rock wool, foam or corkboard enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR has a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishes.
• Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a novice, "inexperienced" home master in construction work can create them. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product is easily disassembled and reassembled.
• Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
• Minimum cost. All elements that make up the partition sheathed with gypsum plasterboard are of low cost. During the installation of the product, piles of construction debris and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is expended.

Flaws

Be sure to note the design flaws that must be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

• The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
• Low resistance of GKL to abundant exposure to moisture. The material can collapse as a result of a leak "organized" by neighbors living above.
• The impossibility of fastening massive shelves or wall cabinets on the surface of the partition. The design is capable of holding a weight of up to 70 kg per linear meter, provided that the elements are fastened to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of the GKL, we note that the competent creation and proper operation of partitions made of this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparation for work

That's it, this short "course of theory" is over, let's move on to solving practical issues. First, consider the list of the necessary tool, list the materials that we need to build the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their number.

Tool

To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

• Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
• Angle grinder ("grinder") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the desired length.
• Jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
• Impact drill or perforator - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
• Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and mounting sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! For mounting the structure at the upper levels, you will need a solid ladder-ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - goggles or a mask, thick gloves, a respirator.

materials

For self-assembly of the partition, the following materials will be used:

1. Two types of metal profile for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used when creating a doorway. PS - "rack-mount" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is the bearing element of the crate.
2. Plasterboard for sheathing - closes the frame on both sides.
3. Insulation - fills the inner part of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the basic materials for the construction of a partition, it is necessary to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's consider this question in more detail:

• Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the partition itself should be thicker.
• Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use GKLV - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and figured structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
• Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (corkboard or dense foam), and basalt wool, which perfectly stores heat, is useful to highlight the hallway area.

In addition to the main structural elements, to create it you will need:

• Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the ceilings.
• Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening frame elements.
• Self-tapping drywall piercing screws (MN 25 or MN 30) – cladding installation.
• Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
• Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The whole structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Master's advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas for screwing in self-tapping screws on the surface of the skin - a reinforcing sickle tape, a primer for gypsum boards, and finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchase of material, you should correctly calculate its required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of skin layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 wide and 2.1 meters high, with a profile frame 75 mm wide and single-layer sheathing with GKL sheets.

• Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix entirely, vertically to the bearing walls. The rest of the length of 9.2 m will be covered with three four-meter strips of the profile (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful to reinforce the frame at the door installation site and install jumpers between the posts.

  The black color indicates the UW profile, which forms the outline of the structure

• Rack profile (CW). Given the standard width of the GKL sheet (1.2 m), the vertical racks of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and one more element is in the middle of the sheet.

  Frame racks should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other

• Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6, and as a result, we get 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

  The gray color marks the vertical posts of the partition frame from the CW profile

• Profile for a doorway. At the door installation site, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a guide profile strip, the same constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a segment of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.

  Green color highlights two load-bearing reinforced racks, blue - lintel (upper beam) of the doorway

• Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from the guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.

  Jumpers from the UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure

• Drywall. As a material for sheathing, we use sheets (plates) of GKL 3000 long, 1200 wide and 12.5 mm thick. To close one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half the sheet. Five slabs are also needed here - two full and three trimmed.

  On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way

  The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one post or 600 mm

Master's advice: Double-sided installation of GKL sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition - use two layers of drywall when sheathing it.

Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:

• guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
• guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 lanes;
• rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
• drywall (GKL 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fasten the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are mounted every 250–300 mm.

The engineers of the German company KNAUF - the world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction - have prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the construction area.

Attention! To simplify calculations during the construction of a drywall partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the base material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let's be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of the neighbors and proceed to the installation of the structure.

Master's advice: Any construction work using drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. Installation of structures is best done before finishing the floors and painting. Before measures to create a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and layout

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan, according to which the markup will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have applied is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall boards and the layer of its finish.

Lathing installation

Having finished with the markup, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

1. An angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors will cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the desired length. On the back side of the blanks, we will stick a sealing damper tape that softens sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

   Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration

2. We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line by drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen advise starting with the top rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot through” with a plumb line the correct installation of the floor profile.

   We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a perforator and hammer the fasteners with a hammer

3. Let's install vertical guides, fixing them to the bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using the building level. Note that fastening a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).

   When mounting the guides to the bearing walls, we check the vertical using the building level

4. Let's form a doorway by installing racks from a reinforced profile in the marked place. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper part of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for reinforcing parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping screws for metal (every 150–200 mm) or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, picking it up in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

   We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws

5. We install a reinforced stand in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (this is where a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with metal screws. We mount the second rack in the same way.

   When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully insert it into the upper

6. Let's set the racks from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of the load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, we perform fasteners with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should fall in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.

   The rack profile is attached to the rails with metal screws

7. We will mount the horizontal jumper (upper beam) of the doorway. We cut off a piece 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts from the guide profile strip. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip of the desired size with blind ends.

   Inside the upper beam of the opening, you can insert a wooden beam, further reinforcing the structure

8. We will install a jumper between the posts of the opening in the right place (we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal with a building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be strengthened in any of the ways mentioned.
9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, it will be necessary to manufacture and install additional stiffeners - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal self-tapping screws.

   Option for the location of transverse jumpers in a frame with a height of more than 3 m

10. Inside the finished frame of the partition, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will mount the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    The wooden beam must be fixed at the installation sites of heavy hanging cabinets and other massive interior elements.

This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important step in creating the partition.

Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive, but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat, as well as isolate the room from extraneous noise

Master's advice: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats of the required thickness - the material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and fits comfortably between the elements of the crate.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

1. We will sheathe one side of the frame with drywall, starting from the whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step counting began for racks from the CW profile. Remember that when installing the GKL, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the junction of the plate with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and a “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and cracking.

   The cladding is mounted from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

2. We fasten the cladding sheet to the profile, twisting self-tapping screws for gypsum boards around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

   The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall surface.

3. With a jigsaw or a knife, we cut the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack profile.

   We join drywall sheets exactly in the middle of the profile

4. Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks by surprise.

   Mineral wool cut to size slabs are laid between the racks of the crate

5. We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of attaching the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

   We close the other side of the frame with gypsum plasterboard, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.

Attention! When mounting the cladding from the GKL, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to attach the extension or parts of a non-standard size, you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.

final chords

Having finished the sheathing of the partition frame, we will insert a door block into it and solve the issue of finishing the surface of the drywall. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, the installation of the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue with the surface finish of the skin is also solved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any kind of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, ceramic tiles or decorative plaster applied - it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the installation process of a frame structure sheathed with drywall, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a GKL partition and install a door

Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to handle and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you will be able to do this work yourself without any problems.