Disconnection of light in the shield without soldering boxes. How to connect wires using mounting caps and terminals. Wiring diagram in the socket junction box. How to connect walk-through switches without a junction box. Pass-Through Circuit

I got into a situation where the renovation was coming to an end. Electrical - wall chasing, cabling, wiring - everything was done in accordance with the original plan. The number of points has increased: sockets, switches, lamps, junction boxes. A responsible worker was engaged in the installation of electrical wiring, I had no complaints.

New suggestions for electrical

And now, at the completion stage, when it remains to glue the wallpaper and apply decorative plaster, there was a desire to install an additional lamp in the recreation area above the sofa.

You can put a floor lamp, but these wires are on the floor ... The wife is categorically against it: wires are a hindrance to quick cleaning. The cat is in favor, but his opinion is not taken into account due to suspicions of vandalism.

My masculine decision is to make that extra power point by all means. I turn to an electrician: I want a lamp in the wall, preferably two. He explains to me: there are no problems, you just need to remove the drywall and, according to the rules of electrical work, again pull the wires to the junction box.

professional look

I am not an expert, and reworking the wall means an increase in the estimate, so I continue to insist. Here is what he answered me:

“I propose the option of laying wiring without a junction box. It is possible to take power from a nearby socket, make a switch in a box with a switch and bring out the lamp in the wall. But this is a violation of fire safety rules.

Yes, sure. Distribution boxes in electrics are used for this purpose - to ensure fire safety. It isolates wire connections from flammable wall materials. However, he himself was against such a scheme. Like, no self-respecting electrician will violate the norms of the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules). But, seeing how much effort and money spent on repairs, he agreed to resolve my issue as a special case.

While he worked, I watched and we talked about the pros and cons of running wires without a junction box. Here you can see the diagram and the video for clarity.

Junction box: pros and cons

The whole conversation can be summarized in the following table.

Electrical with junction boxes	Electrical without junction boxes
Fire safety is ensured by insulation of wire connections from flammable wall materials.	There is no insulation of the heated wire connections. This may cause a fire.
Aesthetic appearance of junction box covers hidden inside the wall.	The wiring is not visible at all, as it is under a layer of plaster or completely behind drywall.
Optimum material consumption and wiring costs.	An increase in material consumption by 30-40% and the cost of electrical wiring, wide strobes in the walls, if there is no work with drywall.

A sensible person who values safety, their money and strives to reduce costs, the installation of junction (junction) boxes is the most acceptable scheme for wiring.

Aesthetics of junction boxes

If aesthetics are at the forefront, yet distribution tanks are the visible part of the electrics in the house, you can use the following tips:

choose places for the installation of distributors behind the furniture;
if a suspended ceiling is planned, hide the boxes above it;
covers installed flush with a light wall are not visible;
cover everything with wallpaper, if there is confidence in the quality of the work of the invited electrician. Then you won't have to look into the junction boxes for years! In case of problems, you can use the scheme. The most extreme method of finding a cover is tapping, it did not let anyone down.

Conclusion

I said goodbye to the electrician satisfied with the explanations, responsiveness and concluded:

wiring without junction boxes is possible. Clear and simple installation is easy to perform. Compliance with safety rules is achieved by creating access to each connection, contact for control and repair. Although, the wires would have gone 30-40% more than I originally planned;
For me, as a user, safety in operation is important. In addition, if there is a need to repair the wiring, another master will easily find a separate junction box;
ideally, when the electrical project is thought out, the junction boxes are hidden from the eyes and organically fit into the interior, during the repair there are no crazy ideas for reworking power points, lamps and the like.

I wish you perfect electrical wiring diagrams, timely new ideas and competent specialists!

There are moments in wiring when it is more convenient and easier to separate the connections not in the junction box, but not directly in the mounting cup of the switch or socket. Such a scheme has its pros and cons, but there are still many more disadvantages. In this article, we will consider what wiring without junction boxes is and whether it is worth using this wiring option in an apartment or a private house.

A case from one's life

I personally had a case, everything seemed to be discussed with the client, the number of points (sockets, switches, lamps, junction boxes), their location, the nuances of the subsequent wiring installation. They shook hands, an estimate was made and material for installation was purchased. According to the plan drawn up by joint efforts, the wiring was carried out. And then one day, when everything seems to be nearing its imminent finale, the drywall is screwed on and it is puttied with painters, and I install transfer boxes and installation cups, before tomorrow's installation of fittings, an employer appears and stuns me with his idea: - “I want to over bed arch with backlight. How can I do that?".

Well, the builders immediately agreed to do the arch for a day of work. This idea did not inspire me much, because on the wall to which the arch will be attached, there are only two sockets for connecting a charger and a floor lamp. It was not possible to pull the wire to the junction box in the opposite corner. Moreover, it would be difficult to do this without damaging a couple of square meters of drywall.

That is why I had to fence the garden, take power from the outlet, make a switch in a box with a switch and lead further to the illumination of the arch. This installation option is called wiring without a junction box. Below are the connection diagrams for a two-gang switch and two light sources.

The video below shows a clear example of wiring without wiring in an apartment:

Conclusion

The advantage of wiring without junction boxes is the visibility and ease of installation, subject to accepted safety rules, which state that any electrical contacts or connections should be easily accessible for maintenance, control and repair. As we know, the contact point, in any wiring design, is a weak point.

Often on forums and websites there is a dispute about the possibility of installing electrical wiring without junction boxes and completely abandoning these electrical products. For my part, as the author of this article, I am against "simplified wiring”, since the norms were hard-won and proved empirically in their expediency.

Wiring without junction boxes (below in the photo) has the right to exist only in isolated cases, and completely wiring in this form is not permissible. In addition, this type of installation is very wasteful, 30% - 40% more wire is spent on it, compared to classical installation.

The correct connection of the wires in the junction box is a significant factor in the reliability of your electrical network. And given that more than 50% of all connections are concentrated in junction boxes, then this element of your electrical network of a house or apartment becomes especially important. At the same time, one should not forget about the visibility of the connection, as well as its maintainability. Based on all this, let's dwell on the junction boxes in more detail.

First of all, let's dwell on the rules for mounting junction boxes. After all, the reliability of your electrical network depends on it. Moreover, these rules are quite logical and will not require serious investments.

So:

First of all, it should be remembered that the junction box must be made of a material suitable for the installation surface. So on combustible surfaces, such as wood, junction boxes made of non-combustible materials should be installed. Usually it is metal.
If the junction box is mounted on a non-combustible surface, such as concrete, then boxes made of slow-burning materials can be used. Usually, for these purposes, standard boxes made of special plastic are used in many offered in hardware stores.
It is also worth remembering that, according to clause 2.1.22 of the EMP, in all places of branching and connection of conductors, a reserve of wire must be provided to ensure reconnection. The price of fulfilling this rule will be mere pennies, but if it is necessary to perform a reconnection, this reserve will become “golden”.
It is also worth specifying the location of the junction boxes. In general, it is not standardized, but usually they are located at the entrance to the room from the side of the door handle. The height of the junction box is usually 10-20 cm from the ceiling. This allows you to protect it as much as possible from accidental touch and visually hide it.

Connection of various electrical receivers in the junction box

Now you can directly consider the connection of wires in the junction box. After all, it largely depends on the type of connected device, as well as on the number of these devices. Sometimes it is advisable to create two or even three junction boxes for one room than to try to fit all the connections into one.

Connecting group wires

First of all, it is necessary to determine the end or passage junction box with us. Ideally, each junction box should be an end box.

An end box is called a junction box that does not have wires connecting it to other junction boxes. A checkpoint is a box that has such a connection.

So:

The end junction box has three cores of the supply cable or wire, from which end consumers are powered.

Note! There should be exactly three of these wires for a single-phase network. Of which, one zero, according to clause 1.1.30 of the PUE, must have a blue color, one protective earth wire, which is designated yellow-green, and a phase wire, which can have any other color designation.

The feed-through junction box has three wires feeding the wires, which are usually mounted on the terminal block. From the same terminal block, the next junction box is powered. As a result, we get two wires connected to each other.
Another possible option is if for one group the box is end, and for the other group it is through. Moreover, usually the wire for which the box is a through passage does not have any connections in it. It just runs along the box.

Connecting sockets

First of all, consider the connection of wires in the junction box at home when connecting the outlet. After all, this is one of the easiest connections.

So, in the junction box we have three cores of the supply wire. As we have already said, these are phase, zero and ground, indicated by the corresponding colors.
To connect the socket, we need to connect the wire that goes directly to the socket to the corresponding cores of the supply cable. In this case, color marking should be observed.

There are not many people who do not know what a junction box is. Nevertheless, it would not be superfluous to recall that this is a plastic container of a round or rectangular shape with a lid and holes on the sides, designed for switching (connecting) electrical wires.

In order to provide all energy-consuming appliances of an apartment or house (light bulbs, lamps, washing machines, TVs, computers, etc.) with electricity, it is necessary to separate the wires from the switchboard to consumption points - sockets and switches.

Walls in the kitchen above the table: what instead of plates?

Pieces of glass remain on the film. Tempered glass is very tough, but broken glass shatters into small pieces with sharp edges. Once tempered, the glass cannot be cut, so any holes, such as electrical outlets, are glazed earlier. It can also be used to produce gypsum components. For internal use.

How to choose a hot tub?

Applied enamel; In case of wiping, the decorative layer is damaged. Security is high. Therefore, the electrical circuit from which the bath is to be supplied must be equipped with a 30 mA differential circuit breaker.

Blinds - protect and protect

They decided to install external shutters. With their lowering and lifting, there are practically no problems. This can be done manually or electrically. And if electrically, blinds can be freely grouped, connected to time controls, twilight sensors and even turn on the system.

This should be done in such a way as to ensure an even distribution of electricity throughout the premises.

To do this, the wiring is divided into separate highways. For each room, its own power wires are laid, to which all energy consumers available in the room are connected.

Instead of a coal boiler

Installation stage. Then some solutions, such as electric underfloor heating or underfloor heating, may not be possible. What is the strength of the ladder? Manufacturers in their catalogs. According to the new standard - the power of radiators. Since the power of both heaters is 4 or 6 kW. As a rule, there is no standard connector on all devices above 3.5 kW. The comfort of using this type of heater depends on. Once the screed is finished and the new tile is laid, the floor will be only 1.5cm high.

At certain nodal points, the wires are interconnected. At such points, junction boxes are installed, inside which the connections are located.

primary goal junction boxes- Ensuring fire safety. Wire connections are the most dangerous in terms of fire. Insufficiently tight contact creates a large resistance in the connection and leads to its heating, sometimes leading to a fire.

Rectangular, square, round

You also need to think about the number and location of sockets. Connections to the shower mixer and concealed installation - connected to the concealed installation box. Devices with electronic control or with lighting must be connected to an electrical outlet. The shower columns are connected at the bottom.

White, and we won't be convinced it's any different - until we've tried a range of modern paints available commercially. Only then will we see how many types of whites can be squeezed out of ordinary tin. Sockets are "torn out" from wall cans, sparkle or warm up. Also, do not overload individual plugs by splicing and connecting too many devices. This may cause a short circuit and fire.

Junction box insulates the junction from combustible wall materials, eliminating the risk of fire. In addition to this main goal, there is a secondary one. Twisted wires that are not hidden in the box do not look very aesthetically pleasing.

Ceramic diamond for tiles and stone

Dust formation during drilling and water cooling. This is one of the solutions to improve the lifespan of your device.

Overview of prefabricated houses

Warranty: 3 years for performance. Stickers in cartridges are also used for gluing wood. Plastics - solvents or dispersion adhesives, depending on the type of plastic. Expanded polystyrene is used for special adhesives and masses in which.

Prefabricated houses with prefabricated houses

Table lamp with clover motif. For wiring and installation pipes, electrical installations, openings and channels are provided.

Kitchen - design principles

Color collated floor tiles - terracotta. Sockets and switches Accessories in the electrical installation. They are installed after the ends of preserved walls where electrical cables are used.

By type of execution, junction boxes are internal, designed for embedding into the wall (for connecting hidden wiring), and overhead, mounted on the wall (for open wiring).

Is it possible to do without junction boxes at all?

Theoretically, yes. But for this you will need to connect the switchboard and each place of electricity consumption in the apartment with a separate wire. This will lead to a large consumption of electrical wiring and the need to make wide and deep strobes in order to be able to lay several rows of wire in them.

As in the external blinds installed in the windows. Because of this similarity, it is sometimes referred to as a roller or shutter. The roller of the roller, which moves in the side guides, rolls into a special shaft mounted in a cassette mounted inside or on.

The main problem that installers face when implementing a video surveillance system is the selection of the appropriate fiber optic cable and cable topology for this installation. Since the most common questions are related to the installation of poles or lamps, all examples refer to this type of installation, however, the information is also relevant for other types of installations.

Ultimately, the disadvantages of this method will outweigh the disadvantages many times over. use of junction boxes. Savings due to the elimination of the latter will be repeatedly depreciated by increased costs for electrical wiring.

As an argument against the use of junction boxes, you can sometimes hear this; although laying a separate line to each consumption point loses economically to the option with junction boxes, but it is safer, since it eliminates the connection of wires at nodal points.

In general, when choosing equipment and cables, both elements must be compatible. If the connection between the camera and the switch is more than 2 km, you need to install a single-mode fiber. With such a high throughput, single-mode fiber should be the preferred solution. The range of single-mode fiber cables is extensive, which allows you to choose the optimal cable, and if necessary, the transmission line can be extended by 2 km in the future.

The cost of multimode cables is even higher as a result of the more complex manufacturing process. So, all the arguments for single-mode solutions. The only argument in favor of choosing multimode fiber is the general opinion that this type of fiber is much easier to splice. However, for video surveillance systems, cable runs are short and optical power budgets are high, so the accuracy and attenuation of welds is not as important. Thus, a general option is to install mechanical splices with attenuation up to 1 dB.

There is only one answer to this. Correct, professionally executed absolutely safe. While everyone is entitled to their own point of view, the option with the use of junction boxes is still more preferable than without them.

Junction boxes install at a distance of 10-30 cm from the ceiling - depending on the height of the latter.

Of course, whatever solution is chosen, the installer must take care of the highest possible precision and quality of the welds! Therefore, in practice, the choice of fiber type is not important in this respect. Benefits of choosing a single-mode fiber cable. More easily selected due to the wide range of cables available on the market, capable of transmitting signals over distances of tens of kilometers, using lower equipment-specific pricing compared to multimode fibers due to lower production costs. Transfer more cables with small bend radius, from 7.5mm. . The inconvenience of choosing single-mode fiber cables.

With hidden wiring, the boxes are embedded in the wall so that the top of their covers is flush with the wall surface. With open wiring, the boxes are installed without embedding into the wall on its surface.

PUE (Electrical Installation Rules) require that access to the box cover be provided - for revision if necessary. With the overhead installation method, this requirement is met automatically.

Fiber variations can cause splicing problems, it is recommended to insert cables into the system in exceptional cases, and depending on the equipment it may be necessary to use optical attenuators for short distances - this information should be looked for in the specifications of the transmitter and receiver, on the transmitter and receiver sensitivity. A separate cable for each rack is the most flexible and fastest solution considering the splicing and protection of optical fibers. However, cabling requires more effort due to the much greater distance between the cables.

When installing inside a wall, you need to take care of two things. Firstly, it is necessary that the location of the box be known and access to it be provided, and secondly, that the aesthetics of the room should not suffer. The first requirement is more important, it must be observed in any case.

The second is subjective, depending on the taste of the owner. Aesthetics can be achieved in many ways. When pasting the wallpaper, carefully trim it around the cover, leaving it in place. This will make it possible to see the location of the box and at the same time make it practically no different from neighboring places.

In this topology, the structure of the cable is not a significant factor, as it does not fan out indefinitely. Of course, the cable must meet all the requirements for proper operation, depending on the environment in which it is installed. An important parameter is the tensile strength sufficient for wired cables. The most popular types of cables used in such situations.

Regardless of the number of rooms per pole, transmission is carried out using only two optical fibers. However, he recommends at least a minimum of redundancy - the installation of 4-fiber cables. The choice of radial topology also saves space on the pole - the optical cable can be connected directly to the junction box with the necessary equipment: media converter, video converter, power supply, etc. the optical fibers of the cable must be terminated with pigtails.

With a different way of decorating the walls, care must be taken that the surface of the cover is the same color as the wall, and that it is possible to remove the cover without destroying the wall in this place.

When installing stretch ceilings, small hatches must be installed to access the boxes (if they are hidden behind the ceiling surface).

Welds must be protected in terminal or junction boxes. The pigtail must be connected to adapters and it is not recommended to connect them directly to optical devices! Connections must be made using patch cords that will connect opposite sides of the adapters to the inputs of the devices responsible for converting optical and electrical signals. In the future, performing maintenance or service will not risk damage to the cable, but only to the patch cord.

Components for realizing a connection point in a column-mounted metal outdoor cabinet can provide a ready-to-use solution for various applications. The lockable waterproof cabinet can be mounted on a pole using a pole holder. The 5 cable entries are protected by rubber seals.

How to connect wires in a junction box?

The PES states that the connection of wires must be made by welding, soldering, crimping or using screw and bolt clamps.

If from all the methods to choose the one that is the best according to the criterion of manufacturability + reliability, then this can be considered twisting wires followed by soldering (welding). The use of clips is also technologically advanced, but it does not provide the contact area that twisting with soldering provides.

Line topology with intermediate points. The question of being able to connect multiple camera points using a single fiber optic cable is one of the most frequently asked installers. There is such a possibility, but it must be chosen by experienced installers and appropriate equipment.

The cable that will pass through all points must have a sufficient number of fibers - at least 2 fibers per point. For example, 5 poles will require at least 10 fibers, so you will need to install a 12-fiber cable or, for redundancy, 16 or 24 fibers. In any case, excessive redundancy will require much more effort, so it's a good idea not to overdo it.

Some are limited to one twist at all. If it is made with high quality, it provides a contact area no less than crimping or using clamps. But still, twisting without soldering cannot be considered absolutely reliable.

One option for running a multi-fiber cable through camera points cuts it at a pole, separating two fibers for connection to a transmitter and welding the fibers to the next pole. All this leads us to the following conclusions. More excess fibers - more effort, the installer must weld all the fibers, the installer must weld all the fibers on the first pole. At the last pole, the installer only has to weld the fibers that connect this point. This approach, which requires cutting and splicing all fibers, may seem counterintuitive, but many installers using professional and fast splicers choose this solution because it can be applied to any type of cable, regardless of the cable structure, consolidation elements, center tubes, thickness, etc. in addition, this approach will allow the use of various commercially available junction boxes.

After wire connections they must be well insulated with electrical tape, and the contact points should be placed in the junction box so that they do not come into contact with each other.

When the work is completed, you can check its quality by turning on some energy-intensive device for a while and checking all the junction boxes for heating of the joints.

However, the system installer shown in the example above should conclude that the total number of welds required is 38, of which only 10 are welded to data edge pigtails. The remaining 28 welds are intermediate joints. Thus, this topology virtually precludes installation due to the high cost and the risk of over-mitigating the longest route.

Where and how to install junction boxes?

Pigtails are connected to adapters. On the other hand, the installer can connect a duplex cable or an optical cable with two pigtails. Any pylon installation must be provided with proper piping protection, especially for the patch box part and the box containing the active equipment.

If it turns out that some connection is heating up, then the contact area in it is insufficient, and it needs to be redone.

A junction box is an electrical product, inside which cable cores are interconnected. Only with the help of it can you correctly connect the socket, switch or lamp to the power source. It also serves to protect connections from

dust, moisture, foreign objects and to prevent accidental contact with them.

Boxes are external (open) and internal (hidden) installation. External are designed to connect cables laid openly: in corrugation, metal hose or plastic cable channels. To enter the corrugations inside, they are equipped with rubber seals to ensure the required tightness.

Seal glands for IP68 junction box

Boxes used in conjunction with cable channels do not have clearly marked places for cables to enter inside. They are sawn during installation on their own, in some models, to facilitate this procedure, the body is made thinner in several places.

Boxes for indoor installation are immured into the walls. Inside, concealed wiring cables are installed. To enter them inside, places with a thinner body wall are provided, usually round. During installation, the body is broken in the right places, cables are inserted into the box, and the free spaces formed in the openings between them and the box body are covered with plaster.

All boxes are supplied with removable covers through which access to connections is provided. Sometimes inside them there are permanently installed terminal blocks for connecting cable cores.

Choosing a place for mounting the box

When installing electrical wiring with your own hands, it is necessary to lay it parallel or perpendicular to the surfaces of the floor and ceiling. The distance from the ceiling to the cables to be laid should be 20-30 cm. It is advisable to place the boxes that feed the switch or socket above them. This is done so that the box can be easily found. In order not to spoil the design of the premises, they are usually bricked up flush with the surface of the walls, and then covered with wallpaper. The box that feeds the outlet and is located above it, if necessary, will be found faster than located randomly.

It is possible to install the boxes above suspended or stretch ceilings, but then it is imperative to provide access to them for possible subsequent repairs. After all, contact connections are the weak point of electrical wiring and over time can weaken or even burn out. For repairs, you will need to open the ceiling. This process will lead to unreasonable material costs, and if the installation location of the box is unknown, to very large ones. The same applies to the location of the box hidden in the wall. It should not be covered with a layer of plaster. To open the lid, the maximum that is allowed to be done is to cut off the wallpaper opposite it. You can then stick them in place or use a patch of residue that inevitably appears after pasting.

To access the boxes located above the false ceiling, ventilation hatches are built into its surface.

The location of the outdoor boxes is determined mainly by the design and savings in cable length. To do this, they are also installed opposite switches, sockets and lamps. But even here you should not install them in hard-to-reach places, so as not to complicate your work.

When installing boxes on the street with your own hands, you need to choose products with a degree of protection of at least IP44.

IP44 junction box

But for guaranteed protection against the penetration of atmospheric precipitation, it is better to install them under canopies, roofs, canopies. But the degree of protection of outdoor boxes cannot be reduced, even if rain and snow never fall on them. Moist air, penetrating inside, leads to the formation of condensate, which deteriorates the insulation between the joints or leads to their corrosion. In the first case, a short circuit is possible, in the second - oxidation and broken contacts.

Junction box installation

Mounting the junction boxes in the walls can be done in different ways, depending on the availability of the tool. The best and least labor-intensive option is to use a perforator attachment called a crown.

It is a ring with pobedit or diamond cutting edges, in the center of which there is a concrete drill. The drill performs the functions of centering the crown, and it cuts a round segment out of the wall.

Example of a diamond bit in concrete that can be used to drill holes for junction boxes

After drilling to the required depth, the segment is removed with a hammer and a chisel or a mounting blade mounted on a perforator.

There are bits of different diameters for any size of the junction box

Holes can also be made by the mounting spatula itself, especially for a rectangular or large box. Pre-drill holes along the edges of the required opening with a concrete drill. The section of the wall between the holes is cut down with a spatula and a puncher set in the chipper mode, or with a hammer and a chisel. Instead of a chisel, you can use a wide flat screwdriver with a strong handle. Installation of holes in the walls of a panel house is carried out only with a puncher, other methods will not bring results. At the same time, holes for sockets and switches are installed.

Then strobes are laid, cables are laid in them, the ends of which are wound into boxes so that ends 10-15 cm long stick out of them. It is better to cut the cables in the boxes in advance. The cables must enter the box itself uncut, more than a centimeter long. With a small size of the box, the length of the uncut cable in it must be minimized, otherwise the wires will not fit in it later. If, when sealing the strobe, there is a possibility of cables shifting along the length, then it is better to cut them in junction boxes, as well as in mounting boxes for a socket or switch, after plastering is completed.

Mounting cables in the junction box

After the plaster has hardened, electrical connections can be made. To properly connect sockets and switches in boxes with your own hands, you need to follow the action plan described below.

Separate the split cable cores on the sides, grouping them according to their purpose. First, it is better to decide on protective conductors (PE). In cables, they are yellow-green. Collect in one bundle the PE conductors going to the luminaire bodies, to the sockets, from the power source and to the next box. Be careful: the green-yellow conductor going to the switch is not related to this connection. It is important to remember: even if you do not plan to install a socket with a grounding contact, a three-wire cable must go to it, and its PE conductor in the box or shield must be connected. This is done so that in the future it will be possible to replace a conventional outlet.
To prevent the bundle from falling apart, pull it off with a tie or electrical tape. The wiring can be done right away, but it is better to complete the planning process completely, as you will need to untangle the remaining wires.
Collect all zero working conductors in a bundle. They are blue in color, and are assembled from supply and outgoing cables, as well as supplying an outlet. The exception is also cables to switches.
Then we collect together the phase conductors of the incoming and outgoing cable lines, sockets and add to them one conductor from the cables going to the switches. The color of these conductors may be white, black or other, but not yellow-green or blue. From the switch cable we take a conductor of the same color as that of the phase conductors.
We collect the wiring diagram of the lamps. To do this, we take blue or yellow-green wires from the switches and connect them to the remaining unallocated phase conductors of the fixtures. This case is an exception to the rule when yellow-green or blue wires can be used to connect a phase, that is, not for its intended purpose.
We carry out the connection of grouped cores by one of the methods: welding, soldering, installation of terminals.
Isolate connections.
We put the wires in the box.

. Scheme of a pass-through switch without a junction box

1. On impulse relays.

2. On walk-through switches.

Useful related articles:

elektrik-sam.info

How to connect walk-through switches without a junction box

Content:

In lighting control circuits with more than two switches, so-called cross switches are used. Cross switches are a variant of double switches controlled by a single key. The cross switch circuit is shown in the figure.

It is not superfluous to recall that the switches must close and open the phase wire. You also need to remember that "zero" must be applied to the threaded contact of the lamp base, and the protective earth wire must be connected to the lamp housing.

Installation of walk-through switches

This method of installation can be recommended in the case of a new building or a large-scale renovation. In the case when the installation is carried out in a room where modern high-quality repairs have been carried out, the manufacture of a large number of channels (strobes) in the walls and on the ceiling may be unacceptable. Perhaps it would be more rational to have all the connections made in the box of one of the feed-through switches.

The selection of the breaker box within which the connections will be made will be determined by the location of the nearest voltage source. For ease of installation, a box for this switch should be selected with a larger volume (greater depth). The connections between the switches should be made with a three-core cable in such a way that the phase wire, having reached the last switch, “returns” to the box of the first switch. The cable laying route should be selected based on the minimum construction work. As a rule, with this approach, the cable itself is also saved.

It should be said that it is strictly forbidden to make connections using a simple twist of conductors by the rules. Wire connections inside the junction boxes can be made using soldering, terminal blocks, PPE insulating caps. The last two connection methods are quite reliable and most practical.

As for the brand of cable used for the installation of walk-through switches, you can use a modern copper cable in double vinyl insulation VVGng-LS to connect lighting loads. Index "ng" means that this type of cable does not support combustion in the absence of external heat sources, and index LS means low smoke emission when heated. As for the cable cross section, in most cases copper with a cross section of 1.5 - 2.5 mm2 is enough.

elektrika.ru

Wiring diagram for circuit breakers without junction box

Looking through the statistics of my site, I noticed that many visitors are looking on the Internet for a wiring diagram for switches without a junction box. Why are they giving it up? I think that they just want to exclude connections (twisting) of wires, which are the weak link in the whole circuit. There is no additional wire connection - no bad contact, no wire oxidation, no faults associated with the poor quality of its connection. It is quite possible to connect a chandelier with a light switch without a junction box. Below you will find wiring diagrams for single-gang and two-gang switches without a junction box, and also find out the pros and cons of such an installation.

Connection diagram of a single-gang switch without a junction box

Such a scheme implies the absence of additional twists of wires between the switchboard, switch and lamp.

From the power panel there is a two-wire wire if there is no grounding and a three-wire wire if it is. We need to bring the phase conductor whole to the switch, and the neutral conductor to the lamp. To do this, we bring the whole wire to the lamp. Then we cut it to the place of separation of the veins. This is usually right above the switch. This is necessary so that the neutral conductor remains at the lamp (it can already be connected immediately), and the phase conductor goes down to the switch. In this case, it turns out that the cable has to be cut for several meters, depending on the distance to the lamp from the switch.

Now you need to bring the phase from the switch key to the contact "L" of the lamp. To do this, you can use a single-core conductor of the same cross section as a two-core one. The route of its passage will be something like this: from the switch up the wall, then along the ceiling to the lamp.

Here is a wiring diagram for a single-gang switch without a junction box.

Wiring diagram for a two-gang switch without a junction box

What if you have a multi-track chandelier and want to connect it to a two-gang switch without a junction box?

There is nothing complicated here either. We lay the wire coming from the shield and cut it in the same way as described above for a single-gang switch. In the diagram below, it is labeled "Wire 1".

Now you need to lead two wires from different keys from the switch to the chandelier. To do this, you can already use a full-fledged two-core cable. In the diagram below, it is labeled "Wire 2". We cut it into 5-10 cm. In the switch, we connect the wires to the outgoing contacts. These wires will be the phase conductors when the switch keys are turned to the on position. Then we lead the wire up from the switch and then along the ceiling to the chandelier. Here again we cut it by 5-10 cm and connect it in the chandelier to the phase contacts L1 and L2.

Here is a wiring diagram for a two-gang switch without a junction box.

The advantages of this installation are:

the absence of additional wire connections, in which problems often arise;
ease of connection, since there is no bundle of wires in the junction box that need to be connected to each other. It can be difficult for a beginner to figure it out here, since you have to twist the veins of different colors together;
minimum faults.

The disadvantages of this installation are:

lack of external (double) insulation on the cable cores, which are cut into several meters.

Although this minus can be eliminated by using solid wires with good insulation. We do this:

one independent wire from the shield from the "bus N" we start up immediately on the lamp to the contact "N";
we also start the phase from the shield from the circuit breaker with an independent wire to the switch;
from the switch we run a single-core or two-core wire (depending on the number of keys) to the lamp.

Something like this!

Let's smile:

From an electrician's notebook:

It is very difficult to find a switch in the room, especially if it is in the hallway.

sam-sebe-electric.ru

Connecting a walk-through switch without a junction box

Feed-through switches diagram without junction box

In this article, we will take a closer look at how to connect walk-through switches without a junction box.

After the publication of a series of articles and videos on walk-through switches, many letters began to come to the mail from readers of this site with the question: “Can I switch off without a junction box?”

Yes, you can do without a junction box. There are two main options here:

1. On impulse relays.

If the electrical panel is installed in the apartment and there is additional space for one module in it, then you can use an impulse relay for installation on a DIN rail.

The switches are connected by two wires in parallel and these two wires are led directly into the shield, the wire from the lamp is also wound directly into the shield. In this circuit, the switch is included in the control circuit, no load current flows through it, so a smaller wire can be used. The load is directly controlled by an impulse relay.

If there is no space in the shield, then relays are produced for local installation in socket boxes, junction boxes, behind the ceiling; connection diagrams depend on the specific model and are usually indicated in the instructions for them.

Read more about impulse relays in a series of articles and videos in the Lighting section.

2. On walk-through switches.

First, let's recall the circuit of two-way switches from two places.

Pass-through switches close and open the phase wire circuit, connecting and disconnecting it from the lamp holder. In this case, the load current flows through the contacts of the switches. Therefore, it is necessary to use a cable of the appropriate cross section.

For details on pass-through switches, see a series of publications, links to which you will find at the bottom of this article. If you want to become an expert in this matter and learn how to assemble any luminaire control schemes from different places, the book Lighting Control from Multiple Locations will help you.

In it, the topic of walk-through and cross switches is analyzed from and to.

So, the wiring diagram of the walk-through switches from two places without a junction box.

Instead of a junction box, all wires are reduced to the first socket. Those. power from the electrical panel (zero, phase, ground) to the socket, the wire from the lamp to the socket, and the wire from the second pass-through switch to the same socket.

Only in this case, a deeper socket box is needed, or the hole for it is made deeper, and the bottom is cut out in the standard socket box (so that there is where to disconnect the wires).

The zero and ground wires from the electrical panel are connected in the first socket, respectively, with the zero and ground wires from the lamp. They are isolated and hidden in the socket.

The red wire from the lamp is connected to the red wire from the second socket, insulated and also left in the socket. The phase to the lamp will flow through this wire. The remaining wires are connected to the terminals of the switches.

The central contact is indicated in the diagram by the number 1. The colors of the wires may differ from those shown in the diagram. The main thing is to understand the principle.

For a better understanding of the operation of the two-way switch circuit without a junction box, see the video.

Wiring diagram of walk-through switches from three places without a junction box.

A three-place circuit uses a cross switch. It is installed between two walk-through switches, in the diagram in the socket 2.

The pass switch, when the key is pressed, switches contact 1 between the other two - 2 and 3.

The cross switch switches the contacts crosswise. With one key position, contact a is connected to contact c, and contact b to contact d. In the other, pin a is connected to d, and pin b to pin c, i.e. crosswise.

In such a simple way, you can connect pass-through switches from two, three or more places without a junction box.

At the end of this article, I suggest watching a video that more clearly demonstrates the operation of a three-way switch circuit without a junction box.

Subscribe to my YouTube channel and be the first to receive new videos on electrics! Don't forget to press LIKE.

And finally, a list of materials on feed-through and cross switches, which I recommend to study.

Useful related articles:

Scheme of pass-through switches from two places.

Scheme of walk-through switches from three places.

Scheme of two-button walk-through switches from two places.

Scheme of two-button walk-through switches from three places.

2-key through switch instead of cross.

Passage switches - the history of writing a book.

Pass-through switch or impulse relay?

elektrik-sam.info

How to connect walk-through switches without a junction box

With walk-through switches, lighting can be controlled from several different locations. This possibility can be used when organizing the lighting of long corridors, walk-through rooms, and other rooms with several entrances.

Content:

Externally, the walk-through switches are no different from conventional single-gang switches. There are differences in the internal structure. The feed-through switch (PV) is a single-pole two-way switch. In such switches, depending on the position of the key, the moving contact closes on one of the two fixed contacts. The figure shows a schematic representation explaining the internal structure of the PV.

The industry produces both single and double switches. Double pass switches have two switches and are controlled by two keys. Dual circuit breakers are used to control two different loads.

As can be seen from the figure, a cross switch can be successfully used as a pass-through switch if only one moving contact is used.

Lighting control schemes using walk-through switches

The simplest lighting control scheme from two different places is as follows.

It is clear from the figure that the light bulb will be on in cases where the moving contacts of the feed-through switches are simultaneously in the “up” or “down” position. Thus, the PVs do not have a fixed “on” position. Whether the load is turned on or not depends on the position of the other pass-through switch. Usually, people easily get used to this feature of lighting control using pass-through switches.

In cases where it is necessary to control lighting from three or more places, cross switches must be used along with pass-through switches.

At those positions in which the switches are shown in the figure, the circuit of the incandescent lamp is open. However, it is worth changing the position of any of the three switches, as the circuit closes and the bulb will burn. Any subsequent change in the position of one of the switches will again open the circuit. It should be noted that the cross switch itself does not open the circuit, it simply switches the conductors following it, produces a "cross" switching.

When it is required to increase the number of lighting control posts, then the number of cross switches is increased. In this case, one should adhere to a simple rule: the chain of switches must begin and end with feed-through switches. Below is an example circuit with five switches.

Installation of walk-through switches

Installation of lighting circuits with walk-through switches can be done using a junction box and boxes for switches. Cables, depending on the material of the walls and other conditions, can be laid in strobes, behind plasterboard or suspended ceilings, in corrugated plastic or metal pipes, in cable channels. An example of a wiring diagram using a junction box is shown in the figure.

etkfaza.ru

Wiring without junction boxes: diagram, video, photo

A case from one's life

The video below shows a clear example of wiring without wiring in an apartment:

Conclusion

Often on forums and websites there is a dispute about the possibility of installing electrical wiring without junction boxes and completely abandoning these electrical products. For my part, as the author of this article, I am against the “simplified wiring”, since the rules of the PUE were hard-won and proven empirically in their expediency.

A separate junction box, located in a place agreed upon by the rules, simplifies its subsequent detection by another master, as well as troubleshooting in the wiring.

Therefore, refuse this type of wiring, since it is easier for the performer and has nothing to do with safety in operation. Take care of yourself and loved ones. This, in fact, is all that I wanted to tell you about wiring without junction boxes. I hope the provided diagrams and video example were useful for you!

You probably don't know:

samelectrik.ru

Switching without junction boxes

In this article, we will talk with you about junction boxes, whether they are needed, whether they are so important in wiring, and whether it is possible to do without them at all. We use junction boxes to provide connections and branch lines. But they need to be accessible. What to do if we do not want to spoil the interior with junction box covers? There is always a way out of the situation. About him we will continue our topic.

First of all, let's recall from the previous article what junction boxes are, what function they perform in the installation of electrical wiring. Everything is very simple. In the junction box, we carry out the switching of cables. Most connections and branches are made in junction boxes, at least in 95% of cases this is done in them. Let's say in our room there are several outlets: for TV, for the desktop and household for a vacuum cleaner. In order to distribute the electrical wiring to these sockets located in different parts of the room, we need to make branches from the power cable coming from the shield. Coming from the shield, it can enter the TV outlet, then the desktop outlet, and from there it can get into the household outlet for the vacuum cleaner. You can do it in different ways. But in any case, we need to make a switch in order to bring power to each of the outlets.

What should we do in this case? First, let's figure out schematically how we can do all this. The most obvious and simplest option is when we put our own cable in the junction box for each outlet.

Why is this method good? We have one junction box, we made all the connections in it, we need to make access to only one junction box. But the cable in this case will leave the largest amount.

You can do as follows

In this case, if the sockets are spaced far enough apart and we feel sorry for the cable, we make two junction boxes. But access is already required to provide to each of them. We now have two places with switching, and it is desirable to make them as few as possible.

Both of the above methods have the right to life and are practiced all the time for different reasons. Everyone justifies their work in their own way. With a quality connection in the junction box itself, you can do it in any of the above ways.

Most importantly, we should not forget that, according to the rules, any junction box should be accessible at any time. It doesn’t matter if she is behind a closet or just in plain sight - there should always be access. And if you have 10 of them per room, and you have 5 rooms? Lovely circles throughout the apartment. Of course, you can draw emoticons on them and enjoy life, but this is not the best possible way out. Especially on top of expensive and beautiful Venetian plaster, no matter how you style them, you can still see that someone hid something in the wall.

And we only touched on the socket groups, and we still have lighting, which also cannot be done without switching. We need to connect a chandelier, and spots, and an LED strip, all this from one place, with a few keys. Yes, and the lighting group rarely ends in one room, which means that the power cable will move further, to the next room.

It turns out that in lighting you can’t do without switching wires, and where to produce them if not in a junction box intended for this.

In the outlet group, we can do it easier and put all our wiring in a loop through all the outlets, but again, the rules will allow us to do this with some deviations. All connections must be made with high quality and in accordance with the requirements, and here we again run into a junction box. Where, if not in it, can we intelligently connect all this?

When making projects for electrical installation in apartments, I try to build an electrical network in such a way that switching is the minimum possible. The best option was and remains the one in which they are not at all, but it is rarely achievable in our time. A growing number of consumers dictate their own rules. Even near the coffee table next to the bed, many want to see at least two outlets, and this is only on one side of the bed. I'm not talking about computer tables and the kitchen work surface, where the number of outlets in one group often exceeds 8-10 pieces. In such conditions, it is almost impossible to do without soldering. The best option would be when the cable left the shield and ended with a socket, but in most cases this can only be done in groups that feed, for example, an air conditioner. Everything is simple here - the cable came out of the shield, came into the terminal block of the air conditioner and that's it. There are no additional switches. Perfect, what can I say. But we will not lay our own cable from the shield into each outlet. Then our shield will claim a serious role in the interior. But such consumers as underfloor heating, air conditioning, washing machine, oven, stove, boiler deserve an individual cable and a machine in the shield. But what about everything else? Let's figure it out. After all, we can not do without switching.

So sockets. We can let them stream. What is a similar method of switching? Everything is very simple, the power cable comes to the first outlet, turns off in it, then to the next one, and so on until the outlets in the group run out. It is worth noting, however, that the fewer of them in the group, the better. When designing an electrical network, these points must be taken into account and a golden mean must be found in the number of groups. With experience, this process is no longer difficult. So the loop.

Everything seems to be simple, but at the same time there are subtleties and rules. Most sockets have two groups of contacts: phase input, phase output, N input, N output and PE input, PE output. It would seem that everything is simple and we can safely turn off our sockets using the available contacts. But! According to paragraph 1.7.144 of the electrical installation rules for PE (grounding conductor), we must make a separate branch. This means we can't just plug a PE (ground wire) into the input and output. The PE core must be continuous throughout our cable. If it is switched, then either not in a collapsible way, or so that it can be disassembled only with a special tool. Why such precautions? PE is a protective conductor, it protects us from being struck by dangerous voltage, which, in the event of a malfunction, may appear on the body of the device (sockets, shields, etc.) Each PE conductor must and must be connected strictly individually. Each conductor for a separate bolt or clamp. In the event that the PE conductor is connected poorly, it may break and the whole meaning of this conductor disappears. Devices connected after a broken PE conductor are no longer protected by RCDs and can give you an electric shock. That is why the connection of the PE conductor must be carried out with the utmost care.

On the vastness of our vast Internet, you can find a large number of disputes about how to make such connections. There are theorists, there are practitioners, there are those who are simply silent, silent because there is nothing to say or what has been said can greatly lower them in rank ... To be honest, many electricians turn a blind eye to such moments and do the installation as they have to. But it is on their conscience.

What is the right thing to do? Up to a certain point, I thought that if we connect high-quality electrical installation products, including sockets, then we can sort of use the terminal block of the sockets themselves and not bother with additional connections. Why did you think so? The terminal group is made at the factory, the manufacturer is well-known, the quality of the products is at its best, which means that the socket itself is designed for a similar disconnection method. But not every customer purchased sockets, the quality of which left no shadow of doubt. Therefore, it was necessary to look for different ways of how to make the installation with maximum quality. On the one hand, there are a lot of options, especially if you look at how colleagues in the shop are perverted. What they just don’t come up with in order to make PE inseparable, as soon as they don’t try. As a result, the process becomes more like not wiring, but dancing with a tambourine. I looked at all these shamanism and thought that the best way would be to simply adopt the proven way of switching in junction boxes. In the end, one goal was pursued - to get rid of junction boxes. So we just transfer them to the sockets and voila. Customers are satisfied and your soul is calm for high-quality electrical installation. Recently, we almost never use junction boxes in apartments.

What kind of way to disconnect, which smoothly moved even to high-quality, it would seem, sockets. After all, it could be disconnected and so. But let everything be the same, equally reliable. Ultimately, the manufacturer is responsible for the product, and the electrician is responsible for the quality of the work performed. The areas of responsibility for this are divided and we go our own way.

So sockets. We decided that we can turn them off directly in the sockets. And even in this we have options and a small flight of fancy, where would we be without it within the framework of the PUE. There are several options for such a split. To begin with, I will focus on the one that I prefer to switch off myself.

We have three sockets. Imagine that they are installed in the wall, but we have a fantasy, and it’s more convenient for me at the table to show you how it all happens. We prefer to lay the routes so that the incoming and outgoing power cable enters the middle socket. It has been this way for a long time, and it’s too lazy to retrain helpers, and it’s very difficult to make a mistake in this option. So, the incoming and outgoing cable go into the middle socket. At the time of laying, we leave a good margin, and in the process of disconnecting, we cut off the excess and leave 10 - 12 each. Usually this is enough for me for a comfortable disconnection and laying them after is not a problem. We take the middle socket box of increased depth, because almost all walls in thickness allow it to be installed without problems. Someone will say that hammering such a depth in concrete is not sugar. I agree, but otherwise, as a plus to the socket, you will have to hammer concrete under the junction box at a height, so don’t worry, we put in-depth. We need it in order to connect 5 cables together: incoming power, outgoing power, right socket, left socket, middle socket. Sounds scary, but as always, only the first time. Further easier, take and do.

We connect everything as it should be. In junction boxes for sockets, everything is nowhere simpler - like a daughter in toys, phase to phase, PE to PE, N to N. It looks like a rather massive structure, but by making two or three of these sockets, you will learn how to carefully lay everything at the bottom of the socket without problems. We make all connections with GML sleeves. Depending on the number of cores that need to be connected, we select the size of the sleeves. Crimped with a hydraulic hand press. They wanted to buy a manual press of the same KBT, but they don’t look for good from good - the existing press is simply wonderful.

A small footnote. When using high-quality fittings (sockets), you can not bother and not dilute the phase, N and PE, for each outlet, pressing with sleeves. It is quite enough to pressurize and dilute PE on each outlet. We basically do as shown in the photo. That's how it happened, that's how it grew. Do it anyway, so why not do it well, but very well?

If there is a group of 4 sockets, then in the extreme, in one of the sockets, we repeat the procedure, that is, we crimp the one that came from the middle one, the one that goes to the fourth socket and do not forget to add for the socket in which we make the connection.

Heat shrink is everything. Who is not too lazy can be perverted with electrical tape. And as a result, we have a socket box in which the ends are completely soldered into three sockets. Everything fit perfectly to the bottom and the place was left as in a standard socket box. Next, just install the sockets.

My favorite Schneider was not in the warehouse and the question “Who will follow Schneider” quietly hung in the air. Our friendly company pretended to be silent and after 5 minutes something of quite acceptable quality was put on my table. True, the terminal block is not for a screw, but ala VAGO. I don’t like them very much, only God knows what the customer will plug into the outlet, although 16 A is written on them. Well, for example, it doesn’t matter, we’ll turn them off.

So, in general, our three wonderful sockets have been removed, the cable fits well, there is quite a decent margin in place - we could put something else in, but we won’t. Sockets are different in depth.

On VAGO, I would categorically not recommend making such connections. I have nothing against specifically the VAGOs themselves, it’s just that applying them, as I think, would be more correct for lighting groups. Although they hold the declared 20A, but on the market, firstly, there are a lot of fakes, and secondly, I recommend putting automatic machines on the socket group 16A and no more. They have a drawdown current of more than 20A, everything seems to be side by side and maybe you'll be lucky, but it's better not to risk it. As many argue on the Internet, you can’t add anything to such a wiring and add it superfluous. Add without problems - we crown a hole for the socket next to it, install it and switch it in the same order. There are no problems, but there is peace and sound sleep.

With lighting it is even easier, the cable is thinner, it is easier to switch, a fairy tale, not life. Consider the example of my favorite Schneider switch. Found only two-key. So we will have two consumers in the proposed lighting group, each with a key. Then everything is simple. The earth is not switched with us and we put it under pressure, the same with the N conductor. We switch the phases depending on which key and what will turn on. The switch, as they say, is made for people. Everything is simple, smart, high quality. I previously hinted that in the lighting groups we can use VAGO, and everyone himself on the shells, and on the shells. Yes, all on sleeves. But This is my IMHO, I love to sleep peacefully.

As you can see there is more than enough space. Believe me, all options for switching are placed and there is still room for a couple.

Well, we can sum up.

The switching option in socket boxes is more suitable for residential premises, where for many reasons junction boxes are not relevant:

the junction boxes need access, but we can't always make sure that the lids of the junction boxes do not interfere with the appearance of the walls.
again, due to the need for access, it is much more profitable for us to make a switch in the socket. To access this switching, you just need to remove the socket.
Serious enough savings in the cable, because it goes from one group of sockets to another, and not a star from one junction box, and the cable route becomes more obvious.
It’s not a problem to add sockets, re-switch the switch, inspect the connection (suddenly, even with such a wiring, someone can’t sleep well)

The connection in the sockets can be made using standard depth sockets, as well as increased depth sockets, which have recently become very popular in the market of installation products. We prefer to combine both standard and deep as needed. Sometimes situations arise when the wiring is large enough and even in a deep socket there is no room for a socket. There is a very simple way out of this situation. We use the recessed socket box completely, subsequently simply inserting a plug into the frame. It turns out that the wiring was done and the design was not screwed up.

And then we live! For those who are impatient, we unscrew the sockets and see how our shells or vagas are doing there, how it is for someone. Because there is nothing left to do but to use a well-assembled electrical network without circles from junction boxes. That's all for today.

www.glhouse.ru

Scheme of a pass-through switch without a junction box - Telegraph

Scheme of a pass-through switch without a junction box

Download file - Scheme of a pass-through switch without a junction box

Pass-through switches allow you to control one model of lighting equipment - a lamp, a chandelier, a floor lamp from several rooms, and this can be done simultaneously. It is important to know how to connect a walk-through switch so that all fixtures work properly. To do this, use the appropriate schemes. Passage switches are an indispensable option in private houses, the layout of which provides for several rooms located on different floors. Appropriate connection schemes can be selected for large apartments, institutions with a corridor type layout. The advantages of such options include not only convenience, but also the ability to reduce the amount of electricity consumed: In other rooms, the lighting does not turn on, respectively, and energy is not consumed. The functions of the light source, under the conditions of the appropriate circuit, can be performed by fluorescent, LED, energy-saving and any other lamps. It is noteworthy that the circuit can be used as part of connecting a load of almost any type, which is controlled from different parts of the room. For those who are interested in the question of how to connect a pass-through switch, a connection diagram for 2 places will be especially useful. In fact, the process is practically no different from a similar circuit that works with a standard type switch. The main differences are as follows:. You will need a wire with three cores, which will need to be carefully pulled to the switch in the direction from the distribution box. As part of this connection scheme, a distribution box is used, two pass-through switches are also used. In the box, as noted above, wires leading from a chandelier or any other lamp should be drawn. Wires with three cores are pulled from the switch. Connecting a pass-through switch according to the scheme from two places implies the use of a phase wire. It is recommended that the work be carried out in the following order: The cross section of a wire with three cores should be selected, focusing on the power of lighting equipment. If you need to connect several lighting control sections, you will need to purchase cross-type switches. The wiring diagram of the pass-through switch, in this case, will not work, because several contacts are used, and the wire must have the appropriate number of cores. In this case, switches of the standard type are selected. They are installed on the last and on the first control sections. For those who want to know how to connect a pass-through switch, this type of circuit should be clear. It is somewhat more complicated than the connection scheme from three places, but you can understand its specifics. In accordance with it, cross switches should be installed on the remaining sections, that is, not on the last and not on the first. The number of luminaire control sections can be any. Their number determines the complexity of the connection in the distribution box, because many more wires are connected to it. In this case, their correct and orderly labeling will be required. Otherwise, there is a risk that the wires will not be sorted out. Work on the installation of the pass-through switch, the scheme of which is not difficult, is carried out in the following order: To each element of the pass-through type, you need to bring a wire with three cores. Wires of four wires are connected to the cross switches. How to turn off the pass switch, connect it - the answers to these questions will be given by theory, practice. It should be clearly understood on what principle the proposed schemes work. Within each of them, the same elements are involved: The first scheme is considered the simplest. From it it is easy to understand how to make a pass-through switch: In addition, it is placed in a box. The phase wire is also placed there, but leads through it directly to the contact. All contacts are connected to each other. The phase comes from a common contact. The second scheme is somewhat more complicated, but it is really convenient. The installation of the switches is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the box into which cables from all sources of electricity are led. In the box they are connected, guided by the selected scheme. It is important to remember that the installation site must be chosen correctly, in accordance with the characteristics of the cables, including their length. Your e-mail will not be published. This blog is kept spam free by WP-SpamFree. Site map Contact information. Sewage Cesspool Septic tank Sewage well Sewage pipes Filtering well Storm sewer Pumps Drainage Heating Boiler room Radiators Underfloor heating Electricity Sockets and switches Ouzo and machines Lighting Wiring Lightning protection and grounding Water supply Water supply Filters Meters Well Well Pumps Swimming pool. Home Electrical Sockets and switches Feed-through switches: Contents 1 Feed-through switches characteristics 2 Wiring diagram: Connecting feed-through switches in the junction box. Distributor of a group of walk-through switches. Control circuit for a group of pass-through switches of two elements. Control from two places with two loads. Wiring diagram for three pass switches. A simple wiring diagram for a switch. Add Comment Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Scheme of the correct connection of the RCD or how to avoid mistakes in this matter 18 Dec. Causes of pressure drop in the gas boiler 09 Jul. Why the radiator is hot on top and cold on the bottom: Why the gas boiler often turns on and off 24 Jul. First aid in case of electric shock: Calculators Engineering communications in an apartment and a private house Site map Contact information Site search Trial page.

Schedule fitness house in Prague