Do-it-yourself warm water floor: main stages, useful tips. Laying water heated floors: not easy, but effective How to make a warm water floor yourself

If you decide to lay a water floor with your own hands, let's say right away that this task is not an easy one, but in any case, you can cope with absolutely any task set for yourself, it is enough to be aware of how to implement it. If you have enough funds to order the installation from specialists, we recommend using their professional services. But during the crisis, when every penny counts, it would be more appropriate to use your strength. In this regard, the topic of the possibility of creating a warm water floor with your own hands becomes very relevant.

It should be noted right away that it is better to install warm water floors in a country or private house. In an apartment, it is quite problematic to connect the underfloor heating system to the riser, and the very possibility for the owners of apartments in high-rise buildings appeared only with the start of the construction of the so-called “elite housing”, where the project provides for a system of underfloor heating.

In an ordinary "Khrushchev" or a panel house, you most likely will not receive permission to install, you can find out everything by contacting your housing and communal services. It is a completely different matter if you already use autonomous heating and decide for yourself how and to what extent you need to heat your apartment.

Floor device

Underfloor heating according to the type of installation can be divided into 2 types:

• grazing;
• concrete.

Floor installation is divided into a wooden installation system and polystyrene, and concrete laying implies that the floor surface will be filled with concrete screed. Floor view - differs from concrete in that it completely excludes all wet processes, due to which the speed of work on installing underfloor heating increases several times.

Installation of a warm floor

Before starting an independent installation of a warm floor, you need to familiarize yourself with as much information as possible. To begin with, let's look at the possible systems for installing such a floor in a little more detail. In modern construction, such a system is the most common installation system, the pipelines of the circuits are closed with concrete mortar and additional heat separators are no longer required.

The installation technology is guided by the following steps, which must be followed:

• Coating with insulating material of the draft surface;
• Installation of reinforcing mesh and installation of pipeline contours;
• Carrying out pressure testing of the system;
• Pouring concrete solution;
• Clean flooring.

Dividing a room into sections

The premises are divided into sections. The number of such sections will depend on the geometry and area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. The maximum area of ​​one heated area should not be more than 40 m 2, in addition, the ratio of all sides of the room should be at least 1:2. Such requirements for marking are due to the fact that the screed will expand significantly under the influence of temperature and, in order to get rid of cracking of the concrete screed, this must be compensated.

Covering the surface with an insulating layer

On a pre-cleaned base, you need to put a heat-insulating layer. Thanks to this thermal insulation layer, no heat loss from the floor is allowed. The heat will only go up in the heated room. When installing thermal insulation in construction, a variety of materials can be used that are allowed for use for these purposes. The most common building insulation material is polystyrene. It should have such a heat-insulating layer with a density of up to 15 cm thick, depending on the thermal regime of the rooms and the amount of heat loss.

A damper tape is necessarily placed between the sectors and around the entire perimeter of the room, which serves to compensate for the thermal expansion of the concrete screed used. A polyethylene film is placed on top of the heat-insulating material.

Reinforcing mesh and pipeline installation

A reinforcing mesh is laid with a bar section of 0.4-0.5 cm, with a cell size of 15 × 15 cm. There is the possibility of double reinforcement, in which the second layer of the mesh is installed on top of the mounted pipeline.

Next, we begin the installation of the pipeline of a warm water floor. Depending on the project used, the pipeline is installed in increments of no more than 30 cm and the scheme for installing the pipeline contours is selected. Using special plastic clamps, we fasten the pipeline to the reinforcing mesh, a corrugated pipe is put on the expansion joints on the pipeline to protect it from damage.

Several standard contour laying patterns are acceptable: double serpentine, off-center helix, serpentine and ordinary helix. When laying the pipeline along the outer wall, it is necessary to reduce the distance between the pipes in order to avoid temperature differences on the surface, the main part of the circuit must pass along the wall, because. there is higher heat loss. Estimated pipeline consumption per 1 m 2 mounted on the surface with a step of 20 cm will be approximately 5 running meters.

Upon completion of the installation work, it is necessary to pressure test the system under operating pressure to detect mechanical damage. After pressure testing, a concrete screed is poured, while the system must be under operating pressure for at least a day.

During all other installation work on pouring concrete, the system must also be pressurized.

The solution is poured with a thickness of up to 70 mm, using special mixtures for water-heated floors or sand-concrete M-300 for this. After the concrete mortar has dried, you can start laying the final floor covering with linoleum, laminate or ceramic tiles, which have excellent thermal conductivity.

System pressure test

Hydraulic tests of pipes of underfloor heating systems are carried out in accordance with existing requirements.

Before carrying out such tests, the piping circuits must be filled with water and the air completely expelled. Tests must be carried out before pouring the concrete solution.

During pouring with concrete mortar, the pipeline must be under pressure of at least 3 bar. For tightness testing, it is necessary to carry out a pressure exceeding the working pressure by 1.5 times.

A preliminary visual inspection of all available connections takes place, while it is necessary to make sure that all locking elements are closed behind and in front of the collectors. When testing with air, time is needed, which will be sufficient for the temperature of the compressed air to return to ambient temperature. All pressure gauges used in the system must give reliable readings to the nearest 0.1 bar.

System connection

To connect the pipe to a common hot water supply pipe or to a boiler, you need to install distribution nodes for each room or one large node for several rooms. Of course, it is necessary to make sure that this node does not interfere with the arrangement of furniture and movement. One way to hide such a knot is to drown it in a wall.

In order to install a warm water floor with your own hands to the collector, you need to make a niche in the wall directly for the collector itself or place a collector cabinet in the same niche. Two combs fit in this cabinet and all circuits used for space heating are supplied. Combs are different. Some are sold with taps included. The most important requirement for a distribution manifold is its compactness.

Do not forget that there must be a crane in front of each pipeline at the inlet on the comb.

These faucets serve two purposes. The first goal: complete overlap of any individual circuit of the system; second purpose: to regulate the supply of hot water, which makes it possible to change the temperature in each heated room.

The temperature in the sectors does not have to be changed manually. Auto-regulation of the temperature in the sector is allowed to be made by special regulating thermostatic valves. The principle of their work is quite simple. The valve sets the required temperature, and the thermal head determines the desired degrees. This is done through the use of a thermocylinder with paraffin. Paraffin wax expands and contracts under the influence of temperature, increasing or decreasing the throughput at the faucet.

Filling the screed

When a water heated floor is installed, you can install the top screed. Before filling the pipeline, it is not necessary to fill it with water. It is quite rigid due to its excellent characteristics, but it is imperative to apply pressure to the entire system before filling. For the second concrete screed, it is necessary to install special beacons.

If the layer of concrete screed that you pour over the pipeline does not exceed 7 cm, then beacons can be installed on a cement mortar. If it is higher than this value, then it will be very difficult to install beacons on such a concrete solution, since the concrete solution will “float”.

Comparative characteristics of underfloor heating and radiator heating system

Everything is quite simple with radiators - with a heat source located on the wall, a rather noticeable and not very pleasant temperature difference forms in the room. Let's see why. As we learned in school, warm air rises while cold air descends rapidly.

The lateral location of the heating elements leads to the fact that the warmest place in the room is only close to the heat source, then the heated air goes up, and the already cooled air sinks to the base of the floor.

So it turns out that the feet are cold, and there is nothing to breathe upstairs, and even the constant circulation of air around the room spreads dust and forms nasty drafts. And all this leads to countless health problems.

Currently, people are increasingly preferring warm water floors, abandoning the usual systems and methods of heating residential premises. A water heated floor is more difficult to install and connect compared to its electric counterpart. But if you wish, even with such work you can do it yourself. You just need to study the instructions in detail and fully understand each stage of installation.

The advantage of the water system is, first of all, that it can be laid under almost any floor covering. However, it is important to remember that if almost any tile is suitable, then the choice of laminate should be approached taking into account a number of features, because. some varieties of such finishes simply dry out and deform under the influence of heat. There is nothing super complicated in self-installation of such heating, you just need to take the time and understand all the details.

Regardless of the chosen finish coating, installation requires special attention and the most serious approach.

When installing a system that uses water as a heat carrier, you need to take care not only to ensure its full performance, but also about so that the liquid cannot freeze under any circumstances. This requirement is especially relevant in the case of installing the system in a private house, where the pipes pass at a short distance from the foundation and the ground.

Also, immediately tune in to the fact that even self-installation and heating connection will require tangible investments.

Self-laying of a water-heated floor can only be done if the house or apartment already has individual heating. The connection of such a system to centralized heating can only be carried out after prior obtaining a special permit, which is given with great reluctance. In addition, for the normal operation of a warm floor, a special pump must be present in the system, and its full use is possible only if there is individual heating.

Before starting to deal with the arrangement of a water heating system, it is necessary to select suitable pipes. The most commonly used pipes are made of polypropylene or metal-plastic. The optimal diameter is from 2 cm. Laying polypropylene pipes will require the use of a special soldering iron to connect them, which in case of self-laying can cause a lot of inconvenience.

Metal-plastic pipes are much easier to lay and connect than their polypropylene counterparts. Therefore, for self-connection, it is recommended to choose just such products.

Regardless of the type of pipes chosen, the finish coating and other circumstances, laying a warm floor will require certain materials and tools.

Devices for connecting a warm floor

1. Insulation.
2. Waterproofing material.
3. Damper tape.
4. Fasteners.
5. Pipes.
6. Reinforcing mesh.
7. Set of wrenches.
8. Valves.
9. Manifold with fittings.

The system must be thought out in such a way that the finished floor heats up to no more than 35-37 degrees, because. at a higher temperature, walking on such a floor will simply be uncomfortable. Subject to proper connection, the water in the pipes will warm up to 55-60 degrees, which is quite enough to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the premises.

Underfloor heating belongs to the category of low-temperature heating systems, which ensures maximum heating efficiency. For example, ceteris paribus, a water-heated floor will heat a room to the same temperature as electric heaters, with noticeably lower costs. This becomes possible due to the fact that the warm floor occupies a much larger area than other household heaters.

The procedure for connecting the heating system is extremely simple. Its essence lies in the fact that the warm floor is connected to an existing heating system. If the apartment is located on the first floor, the system crashes into the upper heating wiring. If the apartment is located on higher floors, the warm floor must be connected to the lower wiring of the heating system.

The bottom line is that in the docking points mentioned above, the coolant will pass into the return pipeline.

And it is important to connect correctly so as not to cause inconvenience to other residents of the house.

Preparing the base for laying underfloor heating

Work on the installation of a warm floor begins with the correct preparation of the base. First you need to get rid of the existing coating, up to the concrete base or floor slab. A waterproofing material is laid on the cleaned base. It will prevent the formation of condensate on the base and prevent its destruction. The moisture-proof film is laid with an overlap. The joints must be glued with adhesive tape, if possible metallized.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to choose a place to place the manifold cabinet, to which the underfloor heating pipes will be connected in the future. Be sure to consider the installation procedure for the circulation pump, if it has not been connected before. A shut-off valve must be present on the inlet pipe that goes to the manifold cabinet. If necessary, it can be used to turn off the heating system. Along the contour, the room is pasted over with a damper tape.

Insulation is laid on the waterproofing layer. In the case of a water-heated floor system, it is best to use dense polystyrene foam as thermal insulation. The joints of the insulation boards must be glued with a damper tape.

After completing the preparation of the base, you can proceed with the installation of the reinforcing mesh. It must be laid if ceramic tiles are used as a finishing coating. In the event that it is planned to lay a laminate, the reinforcing mesh can be abandoned. This mesh allows you to achieve higher rigidity and strength of the screed, which must be made immediately before laying the tiles.

The pipes are attached to the reinforcing mesh. Any convenient elements are suitable for fixing. Most often these are clamps and clips. Fastening tape, wire, etc. are also used. When laying metal-plastic pipes, a number of important nuances must be taken into account. First of all, they should be placed at a distance of at least 20 cm from the walls. The laying step should be within 10-30 cm. If possible, the step should be the same.

There are many different ways to install underfloor heating pipes. In some situations, even their placement in 2 layers is allowed. Metal-plastic pipes are flexible enough, so no special problems should arise during their installation. However, it is important to control the rigidity of fixing the pipes to the reinforcing mesh.

Too rigid fastening is unacceptable. The bottom line is that when heated, the material of the pipes will expand, so an overly rigid mount will deform the pipes and disrupt the normal operation of the heating system.

Try to make bends as smooth as possible, any sharp turns will negatively affect the efficiency of the system.

The procedure for connecting a warm floor

After all the pipes have been laid, they are connected to the manifold cabinet. The device of this unit is designed in such a way that both pipes are connected to it, which are responsible for the removal of the coolant from the underfloor heating system, and those due to which water is introduced into the system.

After connecting the pipes, perform a test run of the system and observe its operation. It is important that there are not even the slightest leaks. Open drain cocks and fill system pipes. In the absence of leaks and other violations in the operation of the underfloor heating, you can turn on the boiler and heat the water. After a while, turn off the heating, let the floor cool down and proceed to the next step.

If the tile will play the role of the finishing coating, it is necessary, as already noted, to make a screed. In the case of tiles, a cement-sand screed is poured. The screed is pre-reinforced. The reinforcing mesh is laid on the pipes. The screed is created in such a way that the cement-sand layer completely covers all pipes and mesh.

You can start laying tiles on the floor in at least 3-4 weeks. It is during this time that the screed usually dries completely and gains maximum strength. To ensure the best heat transfer, it is recommended to lay tiles with a smooth surface, because. even minimal roughness significantly reduces the heating efficiency.

Thus, there are no significant difficulties in self-laying a warm floor. It is only necessary to correctly prepare the base, choose the appropriate pipe laying option, install all the necessary units and connect them, test the operation of the system, lay the reinforcing mesh, pour the screed and equip the selected finish coating. Follow the instructions in everything, and you will get an efficient heating system with the most rational energy consumption and can significantly save on the services of third-party installers. Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself water-heated floor

Video - What calculations are needed before installing a warm floor

» Underfloor heating water: do-it-yourself construction

The underfloor heating water system is seen as a relatively simple and effective building structure. The basic components of a warm water floor are a layer of concrete and a tubular coil placed inside it for a water coolant. This kind of "pie" is qualitatively insulated along the lower direction and the sides. The result is an original heating design for the house - water. It is quite possible to make one with your own hands.

Indeed, few of the existing heating systems for residential and industrial buildings are ready to compete with a warm water floor. It is not difficult to explain the advantage of underfloor heating on water.

So, for traditional widespread thermal systems built on the basis of heating radiators, fan coil units, convectors, the convection effect is a characteristic technological principle.

The convection method of heating has a significant disadvantage - the uneven distribution of heat flows, when the air heated by the radiators mainly accumulates in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling of the room.

The lower part of the living rooms is located in the area of ​​slightly warmed air. The floor part remains cold at all, which is unacceptable for the winter season.

From the point of view of the physiological habit of the body, this approach to space heating can hardly be called ideal.

Tags:

Warm water floors are comfortable and convenient, especially if they do not require the installation of a hot water boiler. In houses with radiator heating, you can connect underfloor heating to the heating system - this will make it possible to make water heated floors at no extra cost.

Project implementation

To perform underfloor heating, powered by a heating system, a number of conditions are necessary. The heating system must be equipped with a circulation pump. In its absence, it is easier to spend money and install a pump than to carry out a gravity system with a sustained slope of the floor contour. The system can be either one-pipe or two-pipe. With a single-pipe system, the floor heating supply pipe is connected after the circulation pump, and the return pipe is connected before the pump.

It is also necessary to calculate the length of the contours. For a two-pipe system, it should be no more than 50 meters, for a single-pipe system - no more than 30 meters. If the space heating circuit is larger, it is necessary to divide it into several circuits laid in different zones or in parallel.

Floor preparation

To avoid heat loss and not to heat the floor slabs, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the subfloor before installing the heating circuit.

1. If there is already a floor covering on the floor, it must be removed, the cracks should be rubbed with cement mortar, and the floor surface should be leveled with cement mortar or a thin layer of clean coarse sand. The floor surface must be checked with a level for the absence of distortions - if the contour of the warm floor is laid unevenly, areas with stagnation of the coolant are formed, which will worsen the heat transfer.
2. Along the perimeter of the room, as well as at the junction of the heating circuits, it is necessary to install. The tape is available in various widths, with or without an adhesive layer. The width of the tape must be chosen so that it is higher than the calculated height of the concrete screed. The method of fastening is chosen depending on the wall decoration. The tape can be glued to smooth walls using an adhesive layer. To rough surfaces, the damper tape is attached with dowel-nails for quick installation. The tape is necessary so that during the heating-cooling of the floor there is no destruction of the screed.

   

3. After that, it is necessary to lay solid thermal insulation on the floor, which will not allow heat to go down. It can be extruded polystyrene in the form of plates or rolled polyethylene foam with a foil coating. Plates are laid end-to-end, avoiding gaps and cracks. Roll materials are also laid end-to-end, and the joints are glued with metallized tape. Roll materials due to their small thickness are rarely used, only if, due to the small height of the room, the use of a thicker insulation is impossible. A layer of polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is laid on top of the insulation - it is necessary in order to create the best conditions for drying the concrete screed and prevent concrete from leaking.

   

4. Reinforcement is laid on the floor. This can be a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10 cm, or a mesh of 6-8 mm rod, connected at the intersections with wire. The mesh is laid on plastic guides to create a gap between the reinforcement and the base.
5. To make a warm water floor from heating, special polystyrene plates with bosses are convenient - they are designed for laying a water circuit and do not require the installation of guides. It should be noted that when laying polystyrene with bosses, it is necessary to use metal-plastic pipes, and not polyethylene, and lay the reinforcement after laying the water circuit.

   

Laying the water circuit and pouring the screed

After preparing the floor, it is necessary to lay a water circuit from metal-plastic pipes according to a pre-designed scheme. Cross-linked polyethylene pipes can also be used. Usually, two laying methods are used: “snake” and “snail”. Laying the "snail" is more profitable - the circuit contains fewer corners, while the colder pipes of the return circuit run next to the hot straight line, which avoids the so-called "zebra" - sections of warm and cold floors. The pipes of the water circuit are usually laid in increments of 15 cm, for the southern regions a step of 30 cm can also be used. If it is necessary to make the floor in any area warmer, the laying step on it can be increased. The diameter of the pipes of the water circuit is chosen less than the diameter of the main pipes, otherwise the pressure in them will be insufficient.

Underfloor heating in a room is an excellent basis for laying any topcoat: tiles, linoleum, laminate. A warm floor with a water circuit has one drawback - it has a significant height, about 10 cm. If the height of the room does not allow you to make a warm floor from heating with a concrete screed device, you can make warm water floors using or electric ones.

Heating in the house is an integral engineering network. Of all the possible underfloor heating systems, warm water heating is in the greatest demand, and this despite the complexity of its installation. Thanks to the warm floor in the room, you can create a comfortable and cozy atmosphere. In this article we will consider general recommendations for installing a warm water floor.

How it works

A warm water floor in assembled form is a layered structure also known as a "heating cake". Its thickness depends on several factors:

• The thickness of the insulation used.
• The thickness of the rough and finish leveling screed.
• Heating circuit diameter.

The floor heating device includes a boiler, a mixing unit, a collector, heating circuits and other auxiliary equipment.

Kinds

There are 3 types of underfloor heating systems:

1. Concrete . The heating circuits are filled with a concrete screed, which, in addition to the protective and leveling function, plays the role of heat accumulation.
2. flat . Mostly this system is implemented in wooden houses on logs. These are all those cases when it is impossible to equip a concrete screed or the total weight of the screed cannot withstand the overlap. Also, this technique is used in panel houses, where floor slabs are unable to withstand heavy loads.
3. Wooden . A similar system is used in the same place as the flooring one, with only one difference: the heating circuits are mounted between the logs under the flooring, which is laid on top of the log.

Floor and wooden heating systems can only be the main ones when the room and the whole house are well insulated. That is, the total heat loss should not exceed 40 W / m 2. Otherwise, when the heating is turned off, the room will cool down very quickly. In the case of a concrete screed, everything is different, the screed itself is a heat accumulator, so a comfortable temperature will be maintained in the room for some time. Thus, a floor or wooden system, with poor insulation, can only serve as additional heating to the main radiator system.

Heated floor cake

The pie refers to all the layers included in the design of underfloor heating. Depending on the selected system, its composition may vary slightly.

Pie Concrete System

The thickness of the warm concrete floor cake can vary. Below is a diagram of the cake with the approximate dimensions of the thickness of each layer:

Consider the sequence of laying the heating cake of the concrete system:

• Draft base. The screed is poured over the slab or the ground. In the latter case, sand and crushed stone are necessarily poured and rammed with a total thickness of up to 60 mm on average.
• Waterproofing. Necessary if there is groundwater nearby.
• heat insulator. Its main task is to eliminate the bridge of cold and heat leakage. For example, you can use expanded polystyrene 20-115 mm thick with a density of 30-40 kg / m 3. Especially the thickness of the insulation should be large if there is an unheated basement or soil under the floor. If you decide to use special mats (made of insulation) with bosses, it is important to consider that their thickness is 30 mm. In order to give the required thickness to the heat-insulating layer, expanded polystyrene is additionally placed under the mats.
• Polyethylene film. Stacked in two layers. Film thickness not less than 150 microns.
• Reinforcing mesh. It is necessary to give the screed high strength in cases where its thickness will exceed 60 mm and a high load on the base is expected. For example, the diameter of the mesh rods can be from 3 to 5 mm, and the mesh size is 100×100 or 150×150 mm.
• Pipe. The pipe laying step is 100–300 mm. The pipe is fixed to the reinforcing mesh with special plastic clamps. Where the expansion joint will be equipped, a corrugation is put on the pipes.
• Finishing concrete screed.
• Substrate. Under laminate, parquet or other facing material.
• Facing.

Pie decking system

The peculiarity of this method is that after the installation is completed, the floor heating system is immediately ready for operation.

The pie flooring system consists of the following components:

• Draft floor.
• Mats with bosses. They come without insulation. In this case, the heat insulator is purchased additionally. The total thickness can be from 30 to 70 mm. The existing bosses will allow you to securely fix the pipes.
• Pipe. Its installation is carried out in a special aluminum plate. It is important to note that not every pipe is suitable for a floor heating system. It must have a special coating that prevents creaking.
• GVL or other flooring material.
• Substrate.
• Facing layer.

It is worth mentioning separately the layer that is located between the pipes and the facing material. The type of substrate may vary, depending on the type of finish. If it is planned to lay ceramic tiles or linoleum on the floor, then a moisture-resistant drywall slab is placed on top of the pipe in two layers. However, over time, drywall under tiles can crumble, so alternative substrates can be considered: moisture-resistant plywood, glass-magnesium sheets, or chipboard.

Pie wooden system

Consider 6 ways of laying a warm floor on wooden logs, which are implemented without a screed:

1st way.

Boards 50 × 150 mm are laid on a wooden floor in 600 mm increments. Mineral wool 100 mm thick is laid between the lags. Heating pipes are unwound from above. In appropriate places, holes are made in the logs for the passage of the pipe. Plywood and finishing material are placed on top of the log. The disadvantage of this technique is that an air cushion is formed between the plywood and the pipe. This negatively affects thermal conductivity.

2nd way.

A heat-insulating layer of expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, etc. is laid between the installed lags. Chipboard, OSB or plywood is mounted on top. After that, chipboard plates with rounded corners are cut out. They will later form the heating circuit. The resulting plates are screwed to the existing base in increments of 4 mm larger than the pipe diameter. Next, foil is placed as a reflective layer. The heating pipe is mounted on top. Finally, the surface is covered with laminate. This method is not suitable for parquet, as the base is quite mobile.

3rd way.

This method is quite labor intensive. A heat insulator is also laid between the lags. After that, a board is taken equal to the pitch of the pipes. A groove is made in one corner along the entire board for laying the pipe. First, foil is laid into it, and then a pipe. Then the facing material is mounted.

4th way.

In this case, special aluminum plates with grooves for pipe laying are used. They are attached to the lags. But in this case, it is recommended to lay a dense material on top of the plates, for example, chipboard, to prevent punching. And only after that the finish is put on.

5th way.

A raised floor is mounted between the lags. A heat-insulating layer is laid out between the beams. Sheets with bosses are placed on top at the same level as the upper part of the log. At the points where the log crosses the pipe, small grooves are made, and a special corrugation is put on the pipe. This is important, because due to linear expansion, the pipe can rub against the tree. The substrate and the finishing material are laid on top.

6th way.

This method is one of the simplest. The pipes are laid directly in the insulation, namely in polystyrene. The space between the upper part of the log and the pipe can be filled with gypsum, which will act as a heat accumulator. However, clean dry sand can also be used.

Video: making a wooden pie

Where can I install

The underfloor heating system can be installed in different rooms. However, in each individual case, it is important to take into account some features.

• In the apartment. In city apartments where a centralized heating system is used, install a warm water floor forbidden. Modern new buildings already have separate risers and exits in each apartment for the implementation of such heating. On the other hand, some at their own peril and risk implement a similar system in their apartments. For this, they even developed a number of schemes, thanks to which the connection to the central heating system is carried out. However, this raises a number of difficulties. The level of the floor rises noticeably. This can be a problem in apartments with low ceilings. In addition, there is a risk of flooding neighbors. Therefore, all materials used must be reliable and of high quality. If the house has a panel ceiling, then it may not withstand the additional load, so many resort to alternative heating - electric. Connection from the central system requires a significant reduction in the temperature of the coolant. In the heating system, on average, the coolant has a temperature of + 60 ° C. For underfloor heating, this is too much, since +30°C is usually enough. If you want to get official permission to install, then you should contact the utility and resolve issues on a personal level.
• In a private house. As for private houses, the situation is much simpler here. It is easiest to carry out installation at the stage of building a house, or rather, before pouring the screed. An important requirement is the arrangement of high-quality hydro and thermal insulation. Also, the heating cake should include a special reflective material. If these requirements are not met, then there will be significant heat loss. In a private house, a mixing unit is being equipped, an additional circulation pump is being installed, which will evenly distribute thermal energy throughout the floor. However, with all the advantages, it is important to take into account the disadvantages of such a solution. After the underfloor heating has been manufactured and the final screed has been poured, heating cannot be put into operation for an average of 4 weeks. Although plasticizers are added to the screed to dry it quickly, it should still dry naturally. This downside is minor and temporary.

• In the garage. Engage in the arrangement of the garage should be at the stage of its construction. In an already finished garage, this work will be problematic and at the same time expensive. The main condition for the floor in the garage is the ability to withstand high loads. The average weight of a passenger car is 3.5 tons. Given this, the screed must be made of durable concrete. Moreover, after pouring the concrete screed, heating cannot be turned on. If suddenly the heating system fails, then it will be problematic to fix the problem, in the worst case, the entire coating in the garage will have to be completely dismantled. After repairing the leak, re-install the floor covering.
• Bathroom. The bathroom is a place of constant accumulation of moisture. For this reason, the presence of such heating will be an excellent solution to prevent the formation of dampness, mold and mildew. To arrange heating, it is required to raise the floor level by an average of 110–130 mm.

Calculation

First of all, you should decide whether the underfloor heating will be the main or additional to radiator heating. It is important to consider the nature of the flooring. Ceramic tiles have a high coefficient of thermal conductivity. As for the tree, this figure is much lower. Therefore, the power of the selected heating system will depend on the type of coating.

In addition, the area and configuration of the heated room is taken into account. One heating circuit should not exceed 120 meters. After that, possible heat losses are determined, which are calculated based on the following:

• what material the house is built from (blocks, wood, brick, etc.).
• type of glazing (double-glazed windows or profile are used).
• average air temperature in your area.
• Are there additional heat sources?

Video: underfloor heating calculations

Video: calculation of the temperature of the warm floor

Design

Pipes are the key element of the underfloor heating system. The length of the circuit directly depends on the diameter of the pipe. The following information is known:

• Pipe Ø16 mm - up to 90 m.
• Pipe Ø17 mm - up to 100 m.
• Pipe Ø20 mm - up to 120 mm.

The larger the diameter of the pipe, the lower the hydraulic resistance in it. If the room has a small area, then usually one circuit is enough. However, if with a pipe diameter of 20 mm, 120 m is not enough for the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bone room, then it is better not to add length, but to make 2 contours. At the same time, it is better that their length is the same with a difference of up to 10 m.

An important role is played by the pipe layout step, which can be 15, 20, 25 and 30 cm. If we are talking about large premises, such as a gym, then the step can be in the range of 35, 40 or 45 cm. However, near large windows, the pipe step it is recommended to make 10 cm.

Consider the individual zones in the table:

These figures are recommended. The choice of one step or another also depends on the pipe used. If it is a metal-plastic, then it is extremely difficult to bend it without damage to a step with a small radius. Therefore, if the laying pattern is a snake, then the ideal step is 15–20 cm.

If the area of ​​the heated room is 50 m2 or more, then the recommended pipe diameter is 16 mm. Even in a well-insulated house, it is recommended that the pipe pitch is not more than 15 cm with a Ø16 mm pipe. The thicker the pipe, the greater the costs you expect. This will especially affect the purchase of fittings and other materials of larger diameter. The project should be made with a pipe Ø16 mm.

In some cases, pipes Ø20 mm are used. However, such costs are often unjustified. After all, the volume of water in the system increases significantly, the heating of which will require more thermal energy. Plus, bending a similar diameter is difficult.

When designing, it is important to consider the following nuances:

• First install partitions, and then determine the number of circuits. There should be one circuit in one room.
• The collector should be in the middle of the house. If this is not possible, then the problem of the difference in the length of the circuits is solved by installing flow meters. Due to this, the flow of the coolant will be uniform.
• If you want to install two collectors, then each must have a separate pump.
• Be sure to insulate the ceiling between the first and second floor. This is necessary so as not to heat the ceiling itself.

The process of designing a warm floor is complex and responsible. Therefore, many use the services of specialists or special programs.

Laying heating circuits

There are several pipe laying schemes:

• snake.
• Snail.
• Combined.

Each of them has its own technical features, which we will consider further:

1. snake . This scheme has several obvious drawbacks. At the entrance to the room, the temperature of the coolant and the floor is high. The farther away, the colder the floor. This is explained by the fact that the cooled coolant returns through the return line. When installing such a circuit, special skills are required. If a metal-plastic is used, then the laying step is often 20 cm or more, because. bending the pipe to a smaller angle is difficult. However, the pitch can be reduced to 10 cm, but small rings must be made around the edges, which is a laborious process. Often, such a laying scheme is used when it is necessary to align adjacent contour zones. Also, this method of laying pipes is acceptable if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is very small, up to 6 m 2.
2. Snail . Its principle is that, first of all, the contour is laid along the perimeter of the room with a gradual narrowing towards the center. Back the contour returns to the starting point. In this case, if you have planned a step between the pipe of 20 cm, then at first the contour is laid in increments of 40 cm. On the return stroke, the pipe is laid between the already laid one and thus forms a step of 20 cm. This laying scheme is one of the most effective. This is explained by the uniform distribution of thermal energy over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Moreover, it is possible to strengthen the areas near the outer wall or large windows by reducing the step distance. For such a scheme, there are practically no restrictions on the shape and size of the premises.
3. Combined . This implies the combination of the two above-mentioned pipe laying systems. For example, one part of the room can be lined with a snake, and the other with a snail. There is also a practice of combining water floor heating with electric. However, in this case, electric heating will serve as an additional one. This is especially effective in the period of early autumn and late spring, when it is not reasonable to turn on water heating.

Video: layout of the heating circuit loops

insulation

Insulation for the floor must be of high quality and safe for others during operation. The selected heat insulator must meet the following requirements:

• Fire resistance.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• Moisture resistance.
• Strength.

Therefore, when choosing a heater, it is important to take into account its technical characteristics. Below are several types of heaters that are successfully used in a heating cake.

Styrofoam

If you have a concrete screed, then polystyrene foam is ideal. It is of two types:

1. Smooth.
2. With beans.

The second option greatly simplifies and speeds up the process of laying pipes. Expanded polystyrene is also divided into 2 types:

1. Regular foam.
2. Extruded polystyrene foam.

If we compare the thermal properties, then they are higher for extruded polystyrene foam.

Cork

This material is suitable in all respects. Among its positive properties are:

• With sudden changes in temperature, the cork does not change in volume.
• Eco-friendly.
• Under the weight of the concrete screed, it practically does not deform.
• Although the material has a small thickness, it is characterized by high-quality thermal insulation.

However, the obvious minus of this heater is the price. Its cost is almost 3 times higher than other materials.

Penofol

Penofol or polyethylene foam is often used when installing a warm floor. It is presented in the form of a rolled foil material with a thickness of 3 to 10 mm. For the convenience of laying pipes, markings are applied to the foil surface. If you live on the first floor and there is soil or an unheated basement under you, then this insulation will not be enough. Must be combined with polystyrene foam.

It is better to choose penofol with a metallized surface, but not from aluminum. This coating does not interact with the negative environment of the liquid solution, which can corrode conventional foil.

Mineral wool and ecowool

Collector

There are several types of collectors that are used during installation work:

1. Collector with outlets for euro cones. One of the simplest collector types. It is a pipe with internal and external threads for connecting heating circuits. However, to introduce it into the underfloor heating system, you will have to buy a large number of parts for a complete set.
2. Manifold with outlets for connecting circuits and valves for adjustment. Often these are Chinese collectors that are sold in stores. They have one obvious drawback - after a while, water may begin to flow from under the handles. This is explained by the low quality of the coolant. They are repairable, it is enough to replace the rubber gasket. Such collectors are not intended for completion with additional control automation. They will be ideal for houses with a small area, where the contours are of the same length.
3. There is also a collector for connecting metal-plastic pipes. It has control valves and fittings. Such valves can be equipped with a servo drive, the operation of which will be regulated by a thermostat installed in the room. The fittings themselves are also known as euro cones, which consist of 3 parts: euro cone, ferrule and union nut. Eurocone also has a sealing ring.
4. In cases where the length of the circuits is different, and manual adjustment is not possible, it is recommended to purchase a manifold with flow meters and sockets for servos. On some collectors they are covered with blue caps. Due to this, it is possible to regulate the temperature of the coolant in each individual circuit. However, you can combine - buy a supply manifold with flow meters, and return - with conventional valves for manual adjustment.

As for the mixing unit, then in its kit there must be:

• Safety valve. It gives a signal to mix the coolant at a very high temperature.
• Circulation pump. Thanks to this device, the system heats the room evenly.
• Bypass. Prevents overload.
• Drain valves and air vents.

Particular attention should be paid to a special valve, which can be two-way and three-way. Each of them has its own differences and purposes of use.

two way valve . In its kit, it has a thermal head with a moisture sensor. If necessary, the hot water supply is shut off. As a result, water is automatically mixed. Mostly such valves are introduced into the heating system, where the area of ​​​​the residential area does not exceed 200 m 2.

Three-way valve .A similar valve determines two indicators at once: the balancing of the bypass valve and the characteristics of the bypass valve. It mixes hot and cooled coolant. Often, three-way valves are equipped with a servomotor controlled by thermostatic and weather controllers. The mixing process is carried out due to the presence of a special damper inside the valve, which regulates the flow of liquid. A similar valve is used in underfloor heating systems with a large number of circuits.

Also, the collector and mixing unit is equipped with outdoor temperature sensors. They allow you to adjust the temperature of the coolant, starting from the outside temperature. Although such adjustment can be performed independently, the presence of such sensors allows you to set the optimum temperature.

Installation of a warm floor

The installation process consists of several successive stages. Familiarization and compliance with the technology will allow you to independently carry out all installation work.

Waterproofing and installation of damper tape

First of all, preparatory work is carried out. To do this, the old screed is completely removed. If the difference in the room is more than 10 mm horizontally, then it should be leveled. To do this, you can fill in a rough self-leveling screed with a thin layer.

The next stage of preparation is the installation of a damper tape. It is necessary to compensate for the linear expansion of the screed when it is heated. If you do not use it, then after a short time the screed may crack. The damper tape is fixed around the perimeter of the entire room to the wall using a self-adhesive layer or adhesive tape.

Insulation laying

The next step is the installation of insulation. The choice of insulation and the method of its installation depend on the type of room and the purpose of the heating. If you have a ground floor and no heated basement, then the insulation should be impressive. A layer of expanded clay is poured and expanded polystyrene up to 100 mm thick is used.

As for the method of laying the insulation, when using cork or penofol, everything is quite simple. These are sheet materials that are glued together with adhesive tape. If polystyrene systems with grooves are used, then their assembly is also not associated with special difficulties. Between themselves, the insulation is joined using special grooves.

However, it is not always possible to use such heaters. Often the most affordable is foam. In this case, its installation should be carried out end-to-end. It is desirable to glue it together, for example, with mounting foam. Upon completion of the insulation, the entire area must be covered with insulation.

Consider the sequence of floor insulation using polystyrene:

• Step 1. The first sheet is placed in the corner of the room so that both sides fit snugly against the corners of the walls.
• Step 2. Next, the sheet is placed end-to-end, tightly fitted one to one.
• Step 3. If you need to get around a corner, column or other obstacle, then polystyrene is easily cut with a sharp knife.
• Step 4. The next row must be laid with a slight offset, exactly half the sheet.

If you have planned insulation in two layers, then the second layer of insulation should be laid across in relation to the first. Due to this, the joints will not coincide with each other. At the end, a special film with markings for pipe installation is placed.

If the heating is installed on a wooden floor, then mineral wool is used as a heater. It fits between the lags. During installation, the width of the mats should be slightly wider than the distance between the joists. This will allow you to tightly lay the thermal insulation and prevent the appearance of cold bridges.

Video: preparation of the base, laying thermal insulation and reinforcing mesh

Pipe installation

When the insulation is completed, it's time to install the heating circuit. In this process, it is important to accurately calculate the laying step, the length of the circuit and the number of outlets on the collector. However, before that, it is worth discussing the issue of choosing a heating pipe.

How to choose a pipe

There are several types of pipes used for underfloor heating, each of which is in a different price category. The cost of a particular pipe depends on the manufacturer.

Pipe laying

At the stage of laying pipes, you can’t do without an assistant. A pipe for a warm floor is sold in bays, so one will unwind and the other will hold the bay. The installation method depends on the system you choose. If the choice fell on special mats with bosses, then the work is greatly simplified, the main thing is to observe the laying step. If a marking film is laid on top of the insulation, then special clips are used to fasten the pipe. What if there is no such markup? You can do it yourself. For this, a chopping cord with paint is used.

When installing pipes, it is unacceptable that they be interrupted. One circuit must consist of one whole piece of pipe. Laying begins with the most distant zones. It is very convenient when the thermal insulation is made in two layers. Transit pipes and necessary utilities can be placed in the first layer of insulation.

The pipe installation process consists of several stages:

Stage 1 - unwind from a coil of 10–15 m. Put a fitting on one end and connect it to the installed manifold.

Stage 2 - the pipe on the collector is connected to the supply.

Stage 3 - according to the marking, the pipe is fixed to the insulation with harpoon-brackets. If the section is straight, then an interval of 40 cm is sufficient. On turns, the interval is reduced to 15 cm. When bending, be extremely careful not to break the pipe.

Stage 4 – during laying, make sure that the pipe is not in tension. She must be free. Otherwise, the tension will constantly pull out the staples.

Stage 5 - if the bracket flew out, then step back from the previous place by 5-10 cm and re-fix the pipe.

Stage 6 - when you have gone around the entire circuit, the pipe is brought back to the manifold and connected to the return line using a fitting.

For proper balancing, it is important to have information on the length of each contour. Markings can be made on the collector itself, for example, giving each circuit a number or the name of the room where it goes. Appropriate notes can be made on a piece of paper. You don't have to keep everything in your head. The section of pipes near the collector should be insulated, otherwise there will be a strong overheating of the floor. Moreover, it is recommended to insulate the pipe through one, i.e. the insulation is put on the supply, and the return is left untouched. Thus, the return line will not heat up from the supply.

There are several methods for fixing pipes:

1 method : tightening collars.

2 method : mild steel wire.

3 method : special stapler and clamps.

4 method : fixing track.

5 method : mats with bosses.

6 method : distribution plate made of aluminium.

Video: laying underfloor heating

Reinforcement

Often the first layer of reinforcement is laid on top of the insulation. In this case, the fastening will be carried out using nylon puffs. Separate sections of the mesh are interconnected with a knitting wire. The mesh size of the reinforcing mesh depends on the step you choose. The mesh should have Ø5 mm. In addition, a layer of reinforcement is also laid on top of the pipes. This is explained by the fact that the grid lying below will not give any effect.

Crimping

Crimping is a process that makes sure that all field connections are tight and pipes do not have any defects. This process is performed immediately before pouring the screed.

Pressing can be done in two ways:

1. Water.
2. By air.

Pressure testing with water

All circuits must be fully unwound and connected to the manifold. The system is filled through the power supply, a pressure of up to 2.8 atm is created, at least 2 atm. In this case, at first the coolant must be up to the mixing unit.

• On the return line, all caps are closed, often they are blue.
• After the supply valve opens.
• In the process of filling the pipes with water, a hissing sound can be observed, this is air escaping through the Mayevsky tap or an automatic air vent.
• Now the valve on the return line opens. So, it will be possible to bleed air through the drain valve on the return manifold.
• The filled circuit closes on the return line and the next one opens here.
• Finally, the valve in front of the supply manifold closes and the valve in front of the return manifold opens.

After filling the system with water and releasing air, it is necessary to inspect the structure for leaks.

Air pressure testing

During the process of pressurizing the underfloor heating with air, the automatic air vent is removed and a plug is screwed in its place. To work, you will need a compressor or a car pump with a pressure gauge. The pressure during pressure testing with air should be three times the working pressure. Therefore, create air pressure up to 5 atm.

Such pressure should be created only in the underfloor heating system, and not in the route connecting the boiler and the collector. This is explained by the fact that some boilers are designed only for pressures up to 3 atm. Therefore, this section is checked later separately.

So, when air is pumped into the system up to 4 atm., Leave the taps closed for a day. The pressure must not drop. Although there will be a minimum deviation, since during injection the compressor will slightly heat the air, which will cool down later. To ensure tightness, you can go through all the joints with soapy water.

Screed

When it comes to finishing screed, it is important to provide for several important conventions:

1. Water must not be drained from the system, but kept under a predetermined pressure of 1.5 atm.
2. Turning on the heating is prohibited.
3. Make expansion joints.

The temperature seam completely eliminates the possibility of cracking the screed. A damper tape is used as an expansion joint. The area of ​​​​the room can be divided by 20 m 2 (this is necessary if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone room significantly exceeds this figure). The pipe, in the area where it passes through the expansion joint, must be reinforced with a corrugation.

For pouring the screed, it is recommended to use special additives that will improve the technical characteristics of the screed. In addition, a plasticizer is added to the concrete, which prevents the screed from cracking when it cools / heats up.

Composition of concrete:

• Concrete and screening - 1:6.
• Concrete, sand and crushed stone - 1: 4: 3.5.

Plasticizer and other additives are poured during the mixing of the concrete mixture. The proportion is determined based on the manufacturer's instructions on the label.

For residential premises, a finishing screed thickness of 50 mm is sufficient, for factory premises up to 100 mm. It is important to take into account the following property of the screed - heat accumulation. The thinner the screed, the less time it will retain heat. If it is too thick, then more thermal energy will be required to warm it up. Therefore, the optimal thickness of the screed is 70–80 mm.

Before pouring, make sure that there is a pressure of 1.5–2 atm in the underfloor heating system. It is forbidden to turn on heating during the hardening of concrete.

The process of manufacturing a screed for lighthouses is as follows:

1. Metal beacons are set according to the level.
2. Beacons are not installed on pipes. You can lay out a thick solution in the form of mounds on which beacons are installed.
3. The concrete is smoothed by the rule. It is important to make sure that the air bubbles are completely out of the body of the screed.
4. The next day, when the concrete has not yet set, it is necessary to remove the beacons, clean these places and fill them with mortar.

Video: screed pouring

Commissioning

Enter the operating temperature gradually. First set the temperature to 25°C. After every day, raise it by 5 ° C. If antifreeze is used as a coolant, then the increase is carried out by 5 ° C, and if water, then immediately by 10 ° C. This is an important requirement, since a sharp and uneven overheating, as a result of which the screed cracks, can be avoided.

So, commissioning is carried out as follows:

• Make sure that all valves on the manifold are open and the coolant circulates through all circuits.
• The thermostatic head of the mixing valve is set to the minimum temperature.
• The circulation pump turns on when the boiler is turned off, as the pump on the boiler will interfere.
• From time to time it will be necessary to bleed the accumulated air.
• Using flow meters, check the circulation of the coolant in all circuits.
• Then you can turn on the heating.

Video: filling the system

Prices for underfloor heating

The cost of work, depending on your place of residence, may vary slightly. On average, prices are correct. You can see the rates in the table below.