The presence of a loggia gives the owner of a city apartment a lot of significant advantages. And the most important of them is the opportunity to expand your possessions with additional square meters. True, for this it will be necessary to work - but in any case, a considerable gain is achieved, especially considering how much one "square" of usable area costs in our time.
We will learn how to properly insulate a loggia or balcony, decide on the method and materials, and talk about laying electrical wiring.
Apartments with an additional area, which is a loggia or balcony, have a greater advantage in the eyes of apartment owners without these premises. But how are these very loggias and balconies used? In summer, you can put a light table and chairs there, breathe fresh air, or simply pull on clotheslines and dry your washed clothes.
How to insulate a loggia or balcony
- Glazing of the loggia
- Balcony floor insulation
- Electrician on the balcony
With the onset of the first cold weather, balconies and loggias become a place for storing various unnecessary belongings; with the first frost, they allow you to do without a refrigerator and store perishable products without any problems. But after all, square meters of living space are expensive today - why do we forget about “ownerless” premises that are easy to convert into living rooms using modern insulating materials? Without postponing for "tomorrow" we take up the insulation of the loggia and balcony - the guide in this article.
Issues that need to be resolved before starting work on the insulation of the loggia
First of all, you need to decide on the purpose of the future insulated room, whether it will be a study, a nursery or, for example, a room for sports training. To a large extent, this choice will depend on the size of the loggia, to a greater extent on its width - if it is less than one and a half meters, then it will be narrow for a study. The purpose of using the insulated loggia in the future depends on the scheme for constructing electrical wiring, the positions and number of electrical outlets, and lighting fixtures.
Important: completely abandon the idea of \u200b\u200bcombining the loggia and the room adjacent to it by removing part of the wall between them!
This is the outer wall of the building, which means it is a load-bearing wall, it is absolutely impossible to make any additional expansions of the opening in it, except, perhaps, the removal of the frame and the door frame (if the loggia is located behind the kitchen)! From time to time there are reports in the news channels about the partial destruction of entire entrances in multi-storey residential buildings due to the fact that the owner of one of the apartments intended to increase living space by demolishing part of the load-bearing wall - don't even think about it!
The reason why loggias seriously freeze in winter is connected with a large area of glazing in this room - after all, it was designed by architects for a clothes dryer, and not for living quarters. It would seem that there is nothing complicated here - to lay a part of the window opening with brickwork or facade drywall with a layer of insulation between its panels and the problem is solved.
But not everything is so simple - from the position of official government agencies, reducing the glazing area of the loggia is an interference in the architectural appearance of the building, which means it is not allowed. Here the glazing of the balcony is another matter, this is allowed, since it reduces the risk of fire from an accidental cigarette butt from the upper floors. In recent years, the supervisory state bodies have not reacted in any way to these same interventions in the "architectural appearance", but this does not mean that they will continue to pay no attention - it is better not to make serious changes in the existing glazing of the loggia.
Heat loss through loggia glazing can be significantly reduced by installing modern double-glazed windows and carefully sealing the joints between new window frames, as well as frames and adjacent walls.
It is necessary to think over the heating of the loggia - if after warming this room will be used as a full-fledged room in which a person has been present for a long time, then you can’t do without it. It is tempting to install a heating battery on the loggia, powered by a central system, but this is prohibited by municipal legislation.
The reason for the ban is this - when designing the building and its heating system, the loggias were not taken into account, so installing a heating battery in these rooms will lead to a lack of temperature in the system for heating other apartments. As you can see, the point here is not at all the theft of heat, and your attempts to include the loggia area in the total heated area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment are guaranteed to be refused in all instances.
Installing a water radiator on a loggia is allowed only if your apartment has an individual heating system, that is, it is heated from a boiler installed in it. There remains only the option of heating the loggia with electric heaters - infrared, convection or using an electric floor heating.
Preparation of the loggia (balcony) for insulation
At this stage, the loggia room is completely freed from everything that is folded in it - after cleaning it should become completely empty. The existing single glazed wooden frames must then be removed as they will need to be replaced with modern ones. If the balcony has a metal fence, it must be cut off (you will need a grinder), instead of the old parapet, lay out a new one, made of light ceramic bricks or foam blocks.
The new parapet can be brought out a little higher than the old fence, but not excessively - change the "architectural appearance". Completely remove the floor covering of the loggia, but if it is made with tiles, you can leave it by cutting out part of the tile under the brick parapet.
Measure the dimensions of the free opening above the parapet, and you need to remove them using the building level - with the same heights on opposite sides, there may be a serious horizontal difference, i.e. opposite points may be at different heights from the horizontal floor level. Measure the angles and take measurements from each of the walls, ceiling and floor, make a drawing with these dimensions - it will come in handy.
Glazing of the loggia
Depending on the purpose of insulation and the temperatures of the cold season, new frames can be with one glass or with double-glazed windows of two or three glasses with a heat-reflecting film inside. The frames themselves can be aluminum, wood or plastic, reinforced from the inside with a galvanized metal profile.
Measurements and recommendations for glazing the loggia will be given to you by the measurer of the opening for glazing, he will also perform all measurements - take into account at least one window in the total glazing area to ventilate the insulated loggia in the future.
Warn the measurer that you need free vertical sections between the extreme frames and the wall with a width of about 70 mm on each side, i.e. the frames on the sides of the glazed opening should not be located close to the walls.
Subsequent insulation of the walls of the loggia will require attaching a layer of insulation to them, a metal profile or a wooden beam and subsequent finishing sheathing, so the walls will move forward a little inside the loggia - if you install double-glazed windows close to the walls, then the side profiles of the frames will be “drowned” into the insulated wall. In the free areas between the frames and the wall, a beam will be installed and two layers of body insulation will be laid (before and after the beam).
In the process of installing new glazing, ask the performers to install a flashing on the outside - a special plastic tape, its width can be from 30 to 70 mm. And one more thing - despite the adhesive layer on the back of the flashing, you should fasten it to the frame with short self-tapping screws with a pitch of 500 mm, because over time the glue will dry and the flashing will certainly fall behind.
Balcony floor insulation
There are two main ways to do this: lay the insulation directly on the floor, lay the main coating on top; set the logs, on top of them is a heater and a rough base of the floor, on top - the main coating. If it is possible to simplify the task and not raise the floor on wooden logs, we only lay roofing material, glue its joints with sealing tape and, if the floor height allows up to the threshold of the loggia door, lay the floor base from chipboard or OSB boards, impregnated with drying oil and further drying. In this case, we will not lay the insulation, because there is no space under it.
As a heat and vapor barrier in the process of insulating a loggia or balcony, Penofol or Penoplex is most often used, the first insulation consists of polyethylene foam, the second is made of extruded polystyrene foam. Possessing good thermal insulation characteristics, easy to use and practically waste-free, both of these materials are not recommended for use in residential premises.
The reasons are as follows: despite the declared flammability classes, according to which these heaters do not burn and do not support combustion, their manufacturers at the same time prevaricate - "Penofol" and "Penoplex" smolder perfectly, releasing a significant amount of carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. It is better to protect the residents of the apartment and the whole house as much as possible from such consequences of fire, using only mineral wool insulation.
So, for laying the insulated floor on the loggia, we need: roofing material, which is enough to cover the floor area of the loggia with a slight overlap on the walls; a roll of self-adhesive tape-sealant type "Guerlain"; wooden beam 50 mm wide for setting lags; rolled mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm; flooring for the base of the floor (sheets of chipboard, OSB 20 mm thick); finished floors (linoleum, laminate).
The surface of the floor is cleaned of debris and dust, roofing material is laid on top of it in one layer. The joints between sheets of roofing material, between the roofing material and the wall adjacent to it are covered with a self-adhesive sealant tape. Logs are installed on top of the roofing material with a step of 500 mm, the beam under them is selected with the height that will allow the plane of the new floor to be brought to the level of the door threshold. When determining the height of the beam under the logs, consider: the thickness of the roofing material (usually 5 mm), the thickness of the slabs under the base of the floor, the thickness of the finishing floor covering.
Logs are set according to the building level, interconnected by bars of smaller thickness. Logs should not be fastened at this stage with high quality - their design will have to be disassembled for processing from decay. To obtain a perfectly horizontal floor surface, you will need to substitute small supporting boards under the logs; they should not be fixed to the floor, since the roofing material will be damaged.
In the design of some balconies, the slabs forming the floor are sloped towards the side of the fence to remove rainwater - horizontal differences of up to 90 mm are possible between the inside and outside of the floor slab. Keep this in mind when setting lags.
After the upper plane formed by the lags is brought to a horizontal level, it is necessary to disassemble the entire structure and treat the timber with oxol drying oil to protect it from decay. After waiting for the complete drying of the drying oil layer applied with a paint brush, we collect the logs again, this time they need to be fastened together with the greatest care. The slabs selected for the base of the floor also need to be covered with a layer of drying oil on both sides and along all ends.
Having completed the processing with drying oil, drying and setting the lags, we proceed to laying the mineral wool insulation, for which it must be cut into blocks according to the size of the compartments between the installed lags. Mineral wool is easily cut with an ordinary carpenter's saw; in the process of working with it, it is necessary to wear a bandage or a respirator - small particles of mineral wool will break off and rise into the air during cutting and laying.
At the next stage after laying the insulation, the base plates are installed on the logs, fastened to them with wood screws. Further flooring work at this stage is stopped - first, it is necessary to complete the insulation and finishing work of the ceiling and walls. The surface of the rough base of the floor for the time of work with the ceiling and walls is covered with two layers of PVC film, fixed along the contour with masking tape.
Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - the initial stage
Inspect the surfaces of the ceiling and walls for cracks and falling plaster, tile tiles, embroider all fragile seams, then fill them with mounting foam, seal them with sealant tape.
Hand the queues - the installation of a wooden beam with a section of 40x50 mm (pre-treated with drying oil) on the walls and ceiling. The beam is set across the walls and ceiling in increments of 500 mm, the beginning of the installation is at the junction of the planes of the ceiling and walls, i.e., at the junction points, the beam is attached to both the ceiling and the wall, close to each other. To fasten the beam, concrete screws with a pitch of 300 mm are used.
On this, work on the walls and ceiling is temporarily stopped - then the turn of the electricians.
Electrician on the balcony
As a rule, the old electrical wiring of the loggia is represented by an aluminum wire 2x1.5 in a common braid, designed for the simplest lamp in one 100 W lamp. For a full-fledged living space, such wiring is not suitable at all - we will pull a new one.
First you need to find out where the junction box is located in the room closest to the loggia - this question should be clarified with the electrician of the local housing office or get a wiring diagram in your apartment in this office. If for some reason you don’t want to contact the housing office, then you can stretch a new wiring from the electrical outlet closest to the loggia, punching a channel from it to the wall between the loggia and the room, then drill a hole through this wall. For a detailed description of this process, see our article.
For wiring to the loggia, you can use an aluminum cable, for example, APPV 2x2.5 or 3x2.5, if grounding is expected (most often there is no grounding in residential buildings). You can use a copper cable VVG 2x1.5 - it will be better. The electrical cable must be laid in a PVC corrugated hose designed to completely prevent fire from a short circuit.
Accordingly, the channel for laying the cable must have sufficient width and depth to accommodate the corrugated hose (a corrugated hose with a diameter of 16 mm is suitable for one cable). In turn, a drilled hole in the wall to the loggia should accommodate a metal tube through which, according to the rules for electrical wiring, a cable is passed to the loggia.
At the exit from the hole into the loggia room, the cable is again threaded into the corrugated hose and put into the tuso-soldering box of the indoor installation - the place for it is determined and prepared in advance, for its fastening it is necessary to install a wooden mortgage (a board of sufficient size), fix it to a wooden crate.
It is most convenient to place the junction box on the wall separating the loggia from the living room adjacent to it, 250 mm from the existing ceiling (without insulation and decoration). A corrugated hose with an electric cable inside is threaded between the wall and a bar attached to it, if necessary, holes are drilled in the places where the bar and wall fit, slightly larger than the diameter of the corrugated hose. Holes are drilled in the embedded boards for the output of the electrical cable.
Decide on the installation locations for electrical outlets and a switch, the installation location for a lamp (s), a heater hung on the wall - at each installation point of electrical installation products and electrical appliances fixed on the wall, it is required to install mortgages to which these electrical appliances will be attached in turn.
The cable at the installation sites of wiring accessories and in junction boxes is led out to a greater length than is actually necessary - by 70 mm, which will allow in the future to replace the electrical appliance if necessary. In no case should the bare ends of the wiring go beyond the wiring accessories and junction boxes!
Important: all switches and sockets mounted on an insulated loggia must be external installation only.
Important: connections of the electric cable supplying power from the living quarters to the loggia, with cables distributing power to sockets and switches, should be made in the junction box only through the DIN rail of the terminal block - no twists!
After completing the wiring, turn off the general power supply of the apartment and connect the wiring of the loggia in the junction box of the living room or in the outlet to which the channel was pierced. Connection in any variant (junction box or socket) is carried out via a terminal block (DIN-rail).
Please note that direct contact of copper and aluminum cables during twisting will cause heating of the aluminum wire, which can lead to a fire - mediation of a terminal block with steel contacts will eliminate heat and fire hazard. Use the terminal block in any case, even if the wiring of the apartment is completely made of copper cable. If there is no DIN rail in the old junction box in the room, purchase and connect electrical cables through it.
So, all the work on laying the electrical wiring to the loggia is completed - we turn on the power supply of the apartment and make sure that there is power in all electrical installation products. Next, we close up the grooved channel in the living room and again we take up the insulation of the loggia.
Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia - continue
We return to the insulation of the walls and ceiling of the loggia. The beam is already fixed, the turn for laying mineral wool and vapor barrier, you will need a knitting wire. We cut the mineral wool into blocks in width equal to the sections between the beam on the walls and the ceiling, we start laying it from the ceiling - you will need an assistant.
From the tools you need a construction stapler with 12 mm staples - we fasten the end of the knitting wire to the edge of the beam with them, lay the insulation and hold it with wire, leading it between two adjacent wooden blocks in a zigzag manner, securing each sharp corner with a staple from the stapler.
Having finished laying the insulation on the ceiling, we move on to the outer walls - the wall between the loggia and the living room can not be insulated, because it is already “warm”, but the beam is attached to it in the same way as on the outer walls. Therefore, try to place the wiring accessories on this wall - it will not need to be insulated and covered with a vapor barrier film, which means that there will be no difficulty in placing the insulation under the mortgage plate for the electrical outlet or switch.
A vapor barrier film must be placed on top of the insulation, slightly stretched and fixed - it must be applied to the surface, fixed on the upper beam and further along the perimeter of the walls (ceiling). The installation of the film should start from the plane of the ceiling. In the areas where the walls and ceiling meet, it is necessary to overlap the film fixed on the walls by about 50 mm. In those places where the electrical installation products are located, the film is slightly incised and tightened around the cable going to the product, i.e. the electrical cable is pushed through it.
Important: the installation of a vapor barrier film is mandatory, otherwise the wooden beam will rot, and the mineral wool will sag under the influence of moisture penetrating in the form of steam from the room. Water vapor will form due to the high pressure inside the room and will be attracted to the outer walls, the partial pressure outside of which is lower due to the lower temperature of the cold season.
Finishing of walls, ceiling and floor
Walls and ceilings can be finished with various coatings - plastic or MDF panels, drywall or clapboard. As a floor covering, you can use laminate, linoleum, or save money and simply cover the base of the floor with two layers of varnish or paint.
The finishing sheathing should start from the ceiling, then the floor is covered, and only after that - the wall sheathing. After installation of the floor covering, its entire surface should be covered again with PVC film to protect it from damage during wall cladding. A hole is cut in the wall covering in the installation area of the junction box, in the places where electrical installation products are installed, only holes for the electrical cable are cut out - I remind you that all sockets and switches must be outdoor installation, i.e. protruding completely above the plane of the wall covering.
At the end of the sheathing of the external walls of the loggia, sockets and switches are connected to the cable that supplies power to them and mounted in their places.
Work on the insulation of the loggia ends with the installation of a plinth and, in the case of cladding with plastic or MDF panels, butt rails on all edges and corners formed by wall and ceiling coverings.
If you intend to replace the existing loggia door with a new one, then its installation must be carried out before laying the lags or the base of the floor and before installing the timber on the walls.published
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Today's balcony in many apartments turns into a full-fledged room, a functional space. This is especially true for small apartments, whose residents appreciate every centimeter. If the balcony is insulated, it becomes an office, pantry, resting place, mini greenhouse, dining room or extra bed. There are many options for its use. The main thing is to do quality work on its insulation. Only in this case it will be warm and cozy on the balcony.
Features and Benefits
In the warm season, the whole family can relax on the balcony, but when autumn comes, this room becomes useless. If you warm it up, the situation will change. The advantage is that all the planned work is easy to do on your own. An additionally warm room is a space in which it is easy to create a small work area or a relaxation area. In addition, the presence of a warm balcony will automatically make the apartment cozier and warmer. You can attach a living room or a kitchen to it, depending on its location. This will create extra space.
Before you engage in insulation or glazing, you need to get expert advice. He will definitely tell you what load a warm balcony can withstand, whether it is worth strengthening it. If the base is a powerful concrete slab, the question of reinforcement does not arise. But the metal parapet must be reinforced with foam blocks or light bricks made of ceramic material. The same should be done in the case of unstable fastening of the reinforced concrete base.
For insulation, double-glazed windows in wooden frames can be used. They are environmentally friendly, allow the windows to "breathe", but are expensive. Aluminum windows insulated with polyamide inserts increase the thermal insulation of the room. The most optimal would be the equipment of PVC windows with double-glazed windows, which will reliably retain heat.
Such windows are cheaper than wooden ones, but at the same time their thermal insulation is not inferior to aluminum ones.
What materials are better to choose
For finishing balconies or loggias today there are many varieties of finishing materials, with the help of which they give even the smallest room an original and attractive look. The main thing is to make the right choice of material for decoration. For insulation, experts recommend using cork, plastic panels, lining with a wooden or plastic base, drywall, plaster, MDF panels, decorative stone, aluminum profile, foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, penofol.
Mineral wool, foam plastic trim is an excellent solution for self-insulating a room.
In the case of an uninsulated balcony, it is better to give preference to artificial stone, plastic frost-resistant lining, cork panels or tiles. The most commonly used finishing materials are:
Drywall
- This material is distinguished by the fact that it does not contain toxic substances, it is easy to process and is combined with other finishing materials in design. Drywall can be plastered, painted, wallpapered, paneled and clapboarded. With the help of such a versatile material, it is enough to simply turn the balcony into a full-fledged living room.
PVC panels
- A practical solution, but it is better not to use this material if the constant temperature on the balcony is below five degrees. This problem can be solved with the help of frost-resistant panels developed using new technologies. This material is not afraid of moisture, but is able to quickly lose color from direct sunlight. This point should be taken into account if the room is located on the south side. Advantages: low cost, quick and easy installation with glue.
Cork panels
- They create a cosiness that cannot be organized using other finishing materials. Cork panels are pressed cork oak bark. Cork panels are easy to install and are suitable for any type of balcony, regardless of the temperature level in the room. The cork panel does not absorb foreign odors, including the smell of tobacco. Lack of material - high price. For insulation, they also use inexpensive foam plastic, and mineral wool is perfect.
How to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step instructions
A balcony in a city apartment is a special space. This piece of the house, taken out under the open sky, can become an office, a greenhouse or a recreation area, one has only to glaze and isolate it.
Warming the balcony with your own hands will save a lot of money. Sheathing in a panel house, in "Khrushchev" is done taking into account the characteristics of the apartment and building.
- Step 1. To begin with, the old frames are dismantled, the surface is prepared and things are taken out. Insulation from the inside is an important step in the whole process.
- Step 2. At the second stage it is necessary to make a balcony glazing. The best option would be plastic PVC windows. Many people prefer to keep the old wood frames. However, remember that even if the wooden structures are in good condition, they will not be able to organize the same heat savings. There are gaps in the tree, so it is pointless to deal with insulation in this situation.
- Step 3. After the plastic windows are installed, you can begin to insulate the floor. Be prepared for the floor to be higher. Consider this if the ceiling in the room is low.
- Step 4. Wall cladding is carried out after the installation of windows and floor insulation. The walls on the balcony are considered side walls, except for the main one. At the final stage of insulation, finishing work is carried out. The choice of materials depends on the budget. In the process of finishing, window slopes facing the balcony are installed.
Necessary tools and materials
- In order to insulate a balcony or loggia, you will need the following tools: a hacksaw or a clerical knife; roulette; level; pencil, marker or any other writing instrument; glue application tool - brush, spatula and so on; other tools. Of the materials you need glue and the insulation itself. In addition, you will need a vapor barrier film and a windproof membrane.
You will also need a frame device. In this case, you will need wooden beams, as well as nails to secure them. You may also need special fasteners - nails with very wide hats. They are used when polystyrene is not fixed with glue.
Warming inside
- High-quality thermal insulation combined with double-glazed windows turns the balcony into a living space. It is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. Insulation materials must be durable, lightweight, safe for humans. Due to atmospheric precipitation and condensate, the walls of the balcony can become damp and moldy, which means that hydro and vapor barriers are needed.
Expanded polystyrenes meet these requirements as much as possible: traditional foam plastic and Penoplex thermal insulation boards. The first is very light, strong in compression, waterproof. Penoplex is an insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam. Its strength and durability exceeds conventional foam, and its shape simplifies installation in the clutch and provides perfect insulation. Sheathing the balcony with slabs can be done both inside and outside.
Insulation of a closed balcony begins with surface preparation. It is necessary to carefully cover the cracks and joints between the floor, walls and parapet with mounting foam without toluene in the composition. Metal structures must be cleaned of rust, coated with oil paint and treated with a building antiseptic.
Before laying the insulation put windows and doors. Window sills and slopes are mounted at the last stage of work. Balcony glazing depends on the parapet. If this is just a metal crate, it needs to be built up with ceramic (lightweight) bricks or foam blocks. The thickness should not exceed ten centimeters. To protect the foam blocks, at the finishing stage they are covered with corrugated board.
Floor
It is possible to install window structures on a reinforced concrete parapet immediately, using various mounting and sealing compounds. Metal-plastic windows have excellent characteristics, with skillful installation, they reliably protect the balcony and look aesthetically pleasing. When choosing a model, it is worth stopping at hinged frames with double glazing.
Floor
- In order to insulate the floor, you can resort to two different directions at once: make it warm or constantly heat it up. We are talking about installing a floor heating system, for example, an electric one. Installing a water system on a balcony is very inconvenient and almost impossible, but installing an electric or film system is easy.
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It all starts with preparation. A waterproofing film is laid on the floor under the tiles, protecting the floor from moisture from the outside. Next, a crate is arranged. Instead of a log, a beam is used, five centimeters thick. If you do not want to raise the floor much relative to the old coating, it is better to use a beam of low height. A square bar 50 × 50 mm is perfect. The beams are laid every 40-60 cm.
To prevent moisture from entering the insulation from the inside, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is laid on top of the beams and attached to them with a construction stapler. For internal fastening, a fastening step of 50 cm is sufficient so as not to create unnecessary holes in the film. Polystyrene must be protected from moisture on all sides. Therefore, it is better to lay the film with an overlap on the walls. All gaps between the beams and the walls should be sealed with the same insulation material or mounting foam.
Walls
- Many do not insulate the walls, believing that cold does not enter the balcony from the side of the house. In many ways it is, but the work needs to be done. The walls themselves are not sources of cold, but the joints between them and the side walls of the balcony can be. For this reason, all work can only consist in installing penofol, which is vapor-tight and thin. It will protect the walls from icing and the penetration of condensate into the balcony.
- Ceiling. If we are talking about a private house, then it is best to make a special roof design. It is recommended to make a pitched roof, the slope of which is directed away from the house. The roof is made of rafters and battens. A waterproofing film is attached on top of it. Roofing material is attached to the film, and waterproofing is applied over a double-sided vapor barrier film, with the absorbent side inward. From below, the rafters are hemmed with a vapor-permeable windproof membrane.
The floor slab, that is, the horizontal part, must have several layers at once: insulation; vapor barrier layer; load-bearing beams with interior trim. The device begins with the installation of the frame, namely the truss system. Next, a double-sided vapor barrier membrane is attached to it in the indicated way. Then arrange the crate and lay the waterproofing layer. You can use classic roofing material or special PVC films.
- Warming outside. In order to insulate the balcony from the outside on your own, you will need skills. It is not easy to do quality work yourself, taking into account the characteristics of the building. Finishing the outside means saving up to thirty percent on heating. Remember that outdoor work is fraught with some difficulties: if the balcony is above the second floor, then industrial climbers will have to be involved in the work.
Before you start insulation, get the consent of officials from the Department of Architecture. The appearance of the balcony can spoil the overall picture, but if you complete the decoration in the same style as the entire building, then you can get permission. Insulation from the outside has several advantages:
- the reinforced concrete slab remains warm, moist air from the room freely passes through it and is released into the atmosphere;
- saving usable space;
- you can mount a layer of thermal insulation of any thickness, this will not affect the interior of the balcony in any way.
Materials can be used the same as for interior work. Preference is given to sprayed thermal insulation, as the lightest and most effective. Experts recommend using foam or polystyrene foam. Mineral wool is sensitive to moisture, so its installation requires special care and accuracy.
The independent procedure for warming a balcony is complicated. All stages must be completed at a high level, otherwise the room will not be completely isolated. Glass, panoramic, stained glass balcony is a great solution for a small space. Designers advise to connect it with a room for expansion. A glazed balcony connected to the kitchen on the top floor is a luxurious solution.
Has the day come when it's time to finally throw away the old ski and take all the cans from your balcony to the garage? Your head is full of ideas, and if not, then the global web will help you. You are ready to realize all the brightest and crazy desires on the vacated piece of living space. There is one small problem left. These are harsh conditions that attack your hard-earned square meters.
Therefore, the primary task that must be solved before letting the fantasy unfold is to keep warm. In order to minimize the cost of repairs, let's figure it out how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands.
If a decision is made to attach the area of the balcony to the living area of the apartment, it is necessary to carry out work on its insulation. So that after the repair there are no unforeseen problems, the work must be carried out in compliance with the established norms, rules and approvals.
Serious reconstruction will require permission from local executive authorities, architecture and the Ministry of Emergency Situations. Ignore this paragraph is not worth it, so as not to be punished for violating the housing code. In addition, coordination will help to avoid certain errors when changing structural elements. Experienced specialists will immediately notice inconsistencies in the project. Correcting errors at the design stage will avoid the cost of correcting errors after repair.
The order of work and their volume depend on what tasks the reconstructed balcony will perform:
- It will continue to be a place to relax in the warm season, and insulation is carried out to protect against wind, dust and precipitation. This is a less expensive method and easier to implement.
- It will be attached to the area of the apartment as a full-fledged living space used all year round. Here, the scope of work increases significantly, since it will be necessary to provide for heating, steam and waterproofing, and change the power supply system.
Attention! Balcony with sliding windows it is almost pointless to insulate, since the windows themselves will let the cold through.
How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands
First of all, it is necessary to take measurements and determine the quantity of materials, their composition and quality. Manufacturers offer a wide range of materials for insulation, insulation and finishing for every taste and material wealth. Of course, you shouldn't skimp on quality. It is necessary to take care of the environmental friendliness and fire safety of housing.
A balcony is a remote structure located outside the building, its three sides and the ceiling require insulation, even if the neighbors have already completed the work. The sequence of work should be built in such a way as not to miss important nuances that will then have to be corrected:
- Particular attention should be paid to the condition enclosing parapet. Most often, it is a thin plate of metal, profile, or iron rods. This design will have to be replaced with a brick wall or foam blocks. For the construction of the wall, you need to choose light, hollow bricks so as not to create an unnecessary load on the carrier plate.
Balcony railing
- Glazing it is better to entrust professionals. Depending on the chosen interior, the profile can be wooden or PVC with double glazing. The number of flaps is determined in advance to ensure ventilation and ease of maintenance. When installing windows, expansion profiles are installed that will facilitate the fastening of insulation boards.
glazed balcony
- Sealing cracks, joints, holes, chips and cracks mounting foam, polyurethane sealants or mastic. They protect against the penetration of moisture, dust, the negative effects of the environment.
Sealing gaps on the balcony
- let down energy supply so that access to food is as practical as possible. Electrical work and heat supply should be carried out by specialists with special permits for such work.
Conducting electricity on the balcony
- Warming carried out in the following sequence: walls, and ceiling.
How to insulate the walls on the balcony
To choose the right insulation, you need to know its technical characteristics, pros and cons.
The main parameters that determine the quality of the material is its thermal conductivity, ecological and Fire safety. It is very important that the insulation is light and takes up less space.
- . Multi-layer, consisting of foil and polyethylene foam, a reflective material a few millimeters thick. At the same time, it reflects at least 90% of heat, durable, lightweight, inexpensive. During installation, it easily takes the shape of the surface and is attached.
Insulation of the balcony with penofol
- polyurethane foam. Provides fire and environmental safety. It is applied to the surface by pouring or spraying, closes all the cracks, provides waterproofing, does not require a frame and fastening.
Balcony insulation with polyurethane foam
- Penoplex. These are expanded polystyrene boards. The material practically does not absorb moisture, but is voluminous and poorly accepts the parameters of the surface to which it is attached.
Insulation of the balcony with foam
- Styrofoam. It has excellent sound, steam and heat insulation properties. Due to its cost-effectiveness and environmental friendliness, it is well suited for warming a balcony.
Balcony insulation with polystyrene foam
- Styrodur. A kind of polystyrene foam, extruded, green color, with good performance.
Balcony insulation with styrodur
- Izover (mineral wool). Widespread insulation made on the basis of fiberglass. This is mineral wool, which will retain heat, provide sound insulation, and will not weigh down the structure. Has an affordable price. Used with additional hydro and vapor barrier.
Balcony insulation with isover (mineral wool)
It is not advisable to use fiberglass, as it is flammable and releases toxic substances.
Given the temperature difference between the outdoor air and the room, it is necessary to provide a kind of hydro-barrier that will not allow warm air to create condensate when it comes into contact with a cold fence. The presence of condensate will lead, in the future, to the formation and decay.
The insulation is attached, depending on the type, with glue, special dowels with a wide cap, spacer nails or spraying.
Using mineral wool the surface is pre-primed. After drying, mineral plates smeared with adhesive are applied to the wall. Installation starts from the bottom and is made according to the type of brickwork. Allow the glue to dry completely within a day. It is possible to carry out strengthening in several places with the help of dowels.
Often, a wooden frame is used to lay the slabs, the design of which retains heat worse than insulation. Therefore, it is better to fasten the material end-to-end and seal them with aluminum tape or mounting foam.
It is better to fasten layers of mineral wool end-to-end
The next layer is a vapor barrier. It could be foil polyethylene. It is laid with foil inside the building so that it reflects the heat coming from the house. Insulating materials for other heaters may not be used, depending on the purpose of the room.
How to insulate the floor on the balcony
About a quarter of the heat loss on the balcony occurs through the floor, so work needs to be done to prevent these losses. This is not the most difficult operation and it is quite possible to do it yourself. When choosing a material, it should be taken into account that the level of the floor on the balcony after installation must be at or below the level of the floor in the adjoining room.
There are several simple and affordable ways:
- with a frame device;
- monolithic;
- electric underfloor heating.
Professional skills may require only one - the installation of a warm floor.
Underfloor heating on the balcony
The main point in the choice of method and material is the condition of the carrier plate. In houses of old construction, structures may have wear and tear and are not always ready to withstand heavy loads. Therefore, it is important to coordinate with the specialists of the department of architecture, what weight of materials can be used in the repair. This is especially important when installing monolithic concrete floors.
The frame floor, in turn, can be arranged using:
- mineral wool;
- expanded clay;
- pepoplast;
- foam or expanded polystyrene.
Floor insulation technology consists of several stages.
- Leveling the surface of the plate is carried out if necessary.
- Waterproofing with a polyethylene film or roofing material (for damp rooms).
- The device of a wooden crate. A bar with a height close to the thickness of the insulation is used. It is laid along the length of the balcony at a distance of 50 cm from each other or another convenient distance, depending on the size of the insulation sheets. Leave indents from the walls of 5-7 cm, and the ends - 5 cm, so that the wood does not deform at high humidity. They are fixed to the floor with anchors or self-tapping screws with a depth of at least 4 mm. This will provide a stable hold. If it is necessary to install transverse beams, it is necessary to make cuts at the joints up to half the thickness and make recesses with the help of which the transverse logs are connected to the longitudinal ones. Control the level, do not allow the bars to sag. If necessary, wooden wedges or dies are placed, which are fixed to the floor with mounting foam. It is important to prevent foam from entering the junction of the wedge and the beam.
- Filling the crate is made with the selected insulation.
Cheap and efficient material mineral wool. Available in rolls and slabs, light in weight, easy to install. The size of the canvas is chosen in such a way as not to crumple it and not to bend it. This degrades the protective qualities due to the reduction in the amount of air between the fibers. The main disadvantage of mineral wool is its low moisture resistance, so it is necessary to use a vapor barrier as the next layer.
Popular, inexpensive Styrofoam due to the ease and ease of installation, it is most often used as a heater. It is very hygroscopic and resistant to any environment. Among the disadvantages are deformation under loads and poor sound insulation.
Balcony floor insulation with polystyrene foam
Penoplex it is resistant to mold development, mechanical stress, temperature changes and excellent thermal insulation performance. As disadvantages, you can cancel its combustibility with the release of harmful substances and the thickness of the material.
Insulation of the floor and walls of the balcony with foam
High fire resistance, durability expanded clay. But it is not very good for warming a balcony, since a thick layer is required for normal thermal insulation.
Insulation of the balcony floor with expanded clay
- The gaps remaining after filling with a heater are foamed.
- On top of the insulation or vapor barrier (if applicable), as a rough flooring, after which the selected floor material will follow, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood is attached.
Cement screed is used only with a fairly solid balcony construction. In order not to exceed the permissible load, a reinforced screed up to 50 mm thick is used.
The following methods will require special professional skills.
Implemented as insulation electrical heating systems using a special infrared film, cable, tapes. They are laid on a thin layer of insulation and mounted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
For water floors requires a device in a special way of the water circuit.
Scheme of the device of the water floor
How to insulate the ceiling on the balcony
Before starting work, you should carefully inspect the ceiling for signs of leakage, since even a small amount of moisture falling on top of the insulation can lead to the development of mold.
Given the difficulty of working on the ceiling, it is necessary to protect the eyes and use goggles.
As a material for work, already familiar foam plastic, mineral wool, polystyrene, (foil polyethylene foam) are used.
Penoplex with a density of 35-45kg / cm² allows the use of panels from 20mm, which will provide normal thermal protection. The only drawback is the high cost.
Insulation of the ceiling of the balcony with foam
Thickness polystyrene can be within 50mm, and the density is 15kg / cm², then MDF, PVC or drywall panels are mounted on top. At a density of 25 kg / cm², putty can be applied.
Insulation of the ceiling of the balcony with foam
For ease of installation, marking is carried out taking into account that the plates or sheets of insulation fit well into the prepared crate, determine the level of fastening. It is better to calculate everything in advance at the bottom, then the work at the top will take less time. The thickness of the layers of insulation and finishing should be such as not to interfere with the opening of windows.
Use a different sequence of work:
- Lathing device → installation of insulation → lining.
- Insulation fastening over the entire area → vapor barrier → installation of a wooden crate or frame made of a metal profile → cladding.
If the balcony is located Upstairs buildings, it is important to prevent moisture from the roof from entering the insulation; for this, an additional layer of insulation with polyethylene or foil polyethylene foam is provided under the roof.
The first layer for waterproofing can be a special compound based on bituminous mastic, applied to a concrete slab with a brush. The next step is to install a sheet waterproofing.
How to insulate a balcony with foam
Penoplex is a cluster of expanded polystyrene balls with air gaps. Practically does not absorb moisture, has a long service life, low thermal conductivity. Plates are produced with a thickness of 2-10 cm.
Foam boards
The lightness of the material does not create an additional load on the carrier plate. It is resistant to deformation, does not emit harmful substances. To increase fire safety, a variety marked C is chosen. Since the walls of the balcony are thin, thick insulation boards are used, which will reduce the useful area of the room.
Under the influence of sunlight, penoplex loses its properties, therefore it is used only as an internal insulation.
The material is easily cut, does not crumble, does not create problems during installation. Used to insulate walls, floors and ceilings. The following fastening types are used:
- Dish-type dowels with plastic cores. This mount is suitable for uneven surfaces, roofs made of metal profiles.
- With a special adhesive applied to a pre-primed surface, it is enough to apply the adhesive in dots or in a zigzag. Adheres well to smooth concrete substrates.
- Glue, with additional fixation, dowels.
Methods for applying glue to foam
Penoplex plates are laid in prepared crate cages or without it, on the entire surface. The use of lathing, especially on the front part, worsens thermal protection.
The fitting of the plates is carried out tightly, the joints are sealed with construction tape or filled with mounting foam. The insulation is covered with a layer of polyethylene with a foil layer. Depending on the purpose of the room, vapor barrier may or may not be used.
Foam insulation is suitable for all types of interior decoration: special plaster, plasterboard, wood and finishing boards.
How to insulate a balcony with foam
One of the most common ways to insulate a balcony (walls, floor, ceiling) is foam. This material at a relatively low cost is able, with proper installation, to provide excellent thermal insulation performance. Of the other positive qualities, it is worth noting the resistance to adverse weather conditions. It does not absorb moisture, does not collapse under its influence, is resistant to the formation of rot and mold.
Polyfoam does not emit harmful substances, goes well with other materials.
To insulate the balcony, foam plastic is used both outside and inside. Outdoor work for a multi-storey building is best entrusted to specialized organizations for the purpose of safety.
For internal insulation, a foam plastic thickness of 4-6 cm is sufficient. If the front part is thinner than the side panels, a thickness of up to 10 cm can be applied.
Warming is carried out in two ways:
- Adhesive. On flat surfaces that do not require waterproofing, foam boards can be glued with special glue (Ceresit ST-85). This method is good for arranging the floor for a subsequent screed or walls for plaster. In this case, when the foam sticks, the glue is applied to its outer surface with a thickness of 2-3 mm. Without waiting for complete drying, they apply a reinforcing mesh, but do not flood it and cover it with another layer of glue.
Adhesive foam insulation
- frame. Since the use of other finishing materials requires additional fastening, they arrange a wooden crate or a frame made of a metal profile. This method is convenient for creating a multilayer cake that provides waterproofing from the outside, and vapor barrier from the inside. Layers can fill the cells of the frame or be located under the bars and on top. The foam itself is cut to the size of the cells so as to fill them as tightly as possible. It is fastened with dowels or self-tapping screws with wide mushroom caps.
Frame method of foam insulation
cracks , emptiness , irregularities are filled with scraps, mounting foam or sealant. After drying, you can attach a layer of vapor barrier over the insulation and the cake is ready for finishing with drywall, plastic panels or other finishing.
How to insulate a plastic balcony
Plastic balconies or decorated with plastic panels are resistant to the external environment, sunlight, temperature changes. Guaranteed service life of high-quality panels is at least 50 years. They are easy to install, have an affordable price, are easy to maintain and look aesthetically pleasing. Due to the positive characteristics, plastic balconies have gained popularity.
Plastic panels improve the aesthetic appearance, provide sufficient thermal protection to balconies with improved glazing.
Balcony with plastic panels
Sheathing the balcony with plastic is carried out on a mounted wooden frame or metal profile, which reacts poorly to temperature changes and changes in humidity. The device of the frame creates a free space between the walls and finishing panels. It is foolish not to take advantage of this moment and add one of the common heaters to this space. If, at the same time, the seams and joints of the balcony structure are sealed, then even one layer polystyrene, penoplex or mineral wool, filling the cells of the crate, will significantly change the microclimate. And the use of an additional layer of vapor barrier will make it possible to use a plastic balcony throughout the year as a full-fledged living space.
How to insulate a wooden balcony
Lovers of wood in the interior, support the style on the balcony. The main advantages of wooden structures are their environmental friendliness, favorable microclimate created by breathable material. The texture of wood, supported by modern finishing materials, creates a cozy atmosphere and an attractive look. However, without additional insulation, a wooden balcony can only be fully used in the warm season. In addition, under the influence of the external environment, the tree quickly ages, absorbs moisture, cracks, and rots. Fixed costs are required to maintain open wooden balconies in an attractive way.
wooden balcony
Insulation with installation will help improve consumer qualities glazing and a set of works on waterproofing.
The interior is well supported by frames made of wood of the appropriate species with double glazing, which will allow the balcony to be used as a living space. After their installation, work is carried out to seal cracks, cracks and junctions using mounting foam. The insulation technology is similar to works for structures made of other materials, however, wood requires mandatory hydro and vapor barrier.
Work order:
- Wooden structures of the balcony are treated with means to protect against decay, insects and increase fire resistance. This also applies to the bars for the crate.
- The concrete base is primed.
- Waterproofing is laid on the prepared surfaces. For the floor, roofing material or mastic is used, for walls and ceilings - polyethylene or foil.
- A wooden frame is prepared from bars, which provide the possibility of laying a heater of a selected thickness.
- Insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene or foam plastic) is tightly laid in the cells of the crate. The remaining voids are filled with foam.
- On top of the insulation, a layer of vapor barrier made of foil polyethylene foam, penofol is attached.
- Finishing with wood panels, clapboard. It must be ensured that the weight of the finishing material does not overload the carrier plate of the balcony. Part of the wooden materials can be replaced with lighter ones, without sacrificing functionality and attractiveness.
To make the insulation of the balcony with your own hands a pleasure and provide an excellent result, think over the goals and tasks in advance, carry out the necessary approvals and measurements. Choose materials according to technical characteristics and your material possibilities. Carry out work in the complex, not missing the little things. And success is guaranteed.
You can also watch a few videos that will help you insulate the balcony with your own hands.
Video
Insulation of balconies and loggias with mineral wool
The technology of insulation of the balcony with foam
Warming and joining a balcony
How to insulate a balcony? The choice of insulation
How to insulate a balcony? Step-by-step instruction
How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: what and how to insulate + video
The notorious housing problem has been troubling us since the time when Adam and Eve were expelled from paradise. “What does paradise and balconies have to do with it?” the reader will ask. And besides, the balcony is a constructive component of our home. And the solution to the question: the better to insulate a balcony or loggia , may, in the end, bring either heavenly pleasure, or a headache due to the money, time and effort spent. After all, a properly selected insulation will turn your balcony (loggia) into additional cozy square meters, expand the space of the apartment and reduce the energy consumption of this area to preserve heat in the winter.
First, consider what types of heaters exist for balconies and loggias. Then we compare them, highlight the advantages and disadvantages, after which you can determine which insulation is best for your case.
Common types of insulation for balconies and loggias
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is widely used in the insulation of balconies and loggias due to the ease of installation and relative cheapness. Mineral wool (basalt wool, wool made from natural fibers (linen) with a polyester content (up to 15%)) is a solid, modern type of sound and heat insulation used in the insulation of roofs, walls, ceilings, balconies and facades. For roofing, roll-type cotton wool with a density of 25-35 kg / m3 is more often used. But for the facade, it is better to choose a denser insulation up to 70-90 kg per meter, which will ensure minimal shrinkage of vertical surfaces.
The mineral wool or basalt insulator used in the insulation of loggias or balconies has shown excellent results. It can also be used as protection against moisture by laying a hydrobarrier. The thickness is chosen according to the temperature indicators of a particular region, but usually not more than 100 mm. Fasten mineral wool under the finishing layer (plastic, drywall) using slats or counter-battens.
One of the disadvantages of this insulation is the wetting of the material. Only cotton wool made from natural linen provides vapor permeability and stable operation when partially wet.
Brief characteristics of mineral wool ISOVER Classic Plus 50 mm:
Depending on the manufacturer, cutting and specifications may vary.
Expanded polystyrene, extruded
Polyfoam - universal insulation for balconies and loggias Expanded polystyrene extruded (polystyrene) is a heat-insulating material with a homogeneous structure and closed cells that is widely used. Almost does not absorb moisture (up to 0.1% per 1 meter per day) and does not react strongly to ultraviolet radiation. Styrofoam has differences in density and is mainly used in the insulation of technical rooms.
The material for insulating the balcony should be a heat insulator with an optimal flammability class, or better, with non-combustible additives in general. Moreover, the market offers all kinds of types and classes of insulators.
Scope and some characteristics of expanded polystyrene brand Extraplex 50 mm:
How to insulate a loggia or balcony? Choosing the right brand is simple, the main thing is to consider the criteria by which the material is selected. If you have a small balcony, materials on which you can apply a decorative layer are suitable. For example, plaster type "bark beetle". Expanded polystyrene is perfect for this, but you should remember about the "dew point" and use only high-quality adhesive for plates.
The downside of expanded polystyrene is the release of the harmful substance styrene when heated above 40 degrees Celsius. Therefore, it is best to insulate the balcony from the outside with such material.
Expanded polystyrene can also be mounted on mounting foam. Recently, this method of fastening is often used. The foam, expanding, does not leave gaps, well filling all the cracks. And when installing a warm floor, you can lay polystyrene foam under the heating element by gluing it directly to the balcony floor.
Advice: on the balcony, it is better to make a coating or other waterproofing of the walls, ceiling and all junctions (windows, doors), since usually balconies are most susceptible to leaks. You can also use a hydrobarrier as a moisture insulator.
Penofol
Penofol is a modern insulation used for insulation, including balconies and loggias Penofol is a thin modern insulation, which is also suitable for warming balconies or loggias. More than three modifications are produced.
Space saving is the number two priority in all installation and finishing work. Here, penofol comes to the fore.
Type "A" - they are used both in combined insulation of external walls from the inside (expanded polystyrene plus penofol), and in an independent version, using a material 10 mm thick. The product, consisting of polyethylene foam, with a reflective layer on one side, will serve you well for many years.
Type "B"- foil material with two reflective surfaces is more used for additional floor insulation, both under a screed in rooms, and as a substrate on balconies and loggias under a warm floor. The high operational and reflective qualities of such an insulator have proven themselves well.
Type "C"- self-adhesive product, with one-sided reflective layer, easy to mount on walls and ceilings. The requirements for surfaces for such insulation are minimal: cleanliness (dust removal) and surface evenness (can be glued to concrete). Do not forget to carefully prime the places of insulation.
Type "ALP" It has both a reflective layer and a protective polyethylene membrane.
If, for example, you want to bring out additional pipes for floor heating in the loggia, the ALP type of penofol is laid as a reflective layer under the pipes and screed. The protective film of such material does not react with the wet solution during the work on pouring the screed. Then, having made reinforcement with a mesh (usually brand BP-1) and placing beacons or guides, pour the solution. Do not forget about aluminum tape for gluing seams and junctions. It is better to wrap the edges of the penofol on the walls, by about 80 mm.
Important: pipes that are laid as a heating element must be under pressure of 5-7 atmospheres when pouring. Such a measure will prevent the base from breaking in the future and relieve stress in the thickness of the material when heated (there is room for expansion). Installing a pressure gauge in the system will make it possible to monitor the indicators and tell you if there are any leaks in the system.
And it is best to glue the screens for additional batteries on the balcony with type “C” penofol, with a reflective layer inward to the battery.
Briefly about the properties of penofol:
What is the best way to insulate a balcony?
Before deciding how to insulate a balcony or loggia, you need to understand which side to use the insulation and where. At the same time, glazing the balcony is a mandatory step, otherwise, what's the point of insulating if everything is ventilated.
The balcony can be insulated:
- bottom (floor);
- top (ceiling);
- inside (walls);
- outside (also walls).
Insulation of the floor of a balcony or loggia
The better the material for warming the balcony, the better the microclimate of the enclosed space will be preserved. In light of the latest trends, insulating the floor on the balcony is highly recommended. This will give energy-saving heat savings from 20 to 40%, depending on the type of insulation. The cost will pay off, especially if you plan to convert the balcony into an extra room.
Warming methods:
- using insulating materials;
- underfloor heating system.
Insulation materials:
Mineral wool
The advantage is low cost, ease of installation. The disadvantage is that over time it becomes caked and loses its insulating qualities. With an illiterate calculation of the heat-insulating layer (this is a completely separate topic of conversation), you can not achieve the desired effect.
Styrofoam
Good, comfortable, cheap material. The disadvantage is that mice eat it. It will be necessary to take care of excellent tightness.
Expanded clay
Lightweight, cheap, eternal heat insulator, but cooler.
Penofol
Moderately costly. Combines the qualities of mineral wool and polystyrene. It can be laid on an imperfectly flat surface. According to experts - one of the best heat-insulating materials for warming balconies and loggias.
Penoplex
Also moderately costly, a good heat insulator, but requires a very flat surface.
Underfloor heating system
There are three options:
water floor
Connected to the central heating system. If you do not have individual heating, then this option is not suitable due to the lack of permissive legislative acts.
Electric
- Cable.
- Cable with reinforcing mesh.
Electric floors are effective together with self-leveling floors and tiles.
Film (infrared)
Installed without major repairs. A technically simple solution.
Attention: the film floor cannot be used under tiles and screed. It is possible under linoleum or laminate.
Insulation of the ceiling of a balcony or loggia
It makes sense to insulate the ceiling on the balcony if your balcony is located on the top floor.
To insulate the ceiling on the balcony, the following materials are used:
- drywall;
- Styrofoam;
- penofol;
- penoplex (foamed polystyrene foam).
Do not forget that when insulating the ceiling, a decrease in the ceiling space is inevitable.
If you do not want to do capital insulation of the ceiling, then you can get by with decorated foam tiles. In this case, there will be two advantages: an elegant ceiling with a small layer of insulation.
Insulation of the walls of a balcony or loggia
Before insulating the walls of the balcony, it is necessary to close up all holes and cracks. Neglecting such a trifle as a gap in cold windy weather will result in loss of heat and lack of comfort.
Balcony insulation materials are the same as for floor insulation. It:
- expanded polystyrene;
- penoplex;
- penofol;
- mineral wool.
You can add stuff like isover.This is a more modern mineral wool based on fiberglass. Available in rolls or sheets.
Another option is styrodur is a green extruded polystyrene foam.
Wall insulation can be carried out from the inside and outside. In the event that it is necessary to save the usable space of the balcony, it is recommended to carry out insulation from the outside, and only finishing work inside.
As in any other case, the choice of insulation from the outside has its advantages and disadvantages:
It is not easy to choose which insulation suits you, how to specifically isolate a particular room. The best way of warming will be combined.
Example: it is better to insulate the ceiling of the loggia and all walls with basalt wool mats, the floor with polystyrene foam, and use penofol as an additional sound-absorbing and heat-reflecting layer.
When choosing a material, remember that the flammability class and environmental friendliness are perhaps the most important criteria.
So, taking into account the plans hatched regarding the further use of the balcony or loggia, time and financial possibilities, taking into account the recommendations received, you can now make a reasonable balanced decision on the choice of insulation for your balcony or loggia.
