For any repairs in an apartment, a private house or a country house, as well as a breakdown of any electrical wiring element, you need to know exactly where the wires go. Otherwise, this can lead to additional problems associated with finding electrical cables hidden in the wall or, even worse, getting the tool into a live wire. In this case, it is desirable to have a wiring diagram. But as often happens, it is not at hand, because when buying your own home, no one is interested in this documentation. Therefore, it is advisable to understand various power supply options, since they are standard in multi-apartment buildings.
Wire connection options
A person who understands what awaits him in the process of independently drawing up a wiring diagram or directly performing work on installing sockets, switches and light sources in his own apartment with his own hands should know the main ways in which electrical circuits are connected.
If the homeowner is completely unaware of the arrangement of electrical circuits, then it is better to entrust all installation work in the apartment to professional electricians, who will draw up a clear plan in a short time, including even the smallest details, which will save on the purchase of consumables.
Video: cable laying diagram in the house
How electrical wiring is done
The choice of scheme should be made with full awareness of the matter. First of all, this is due to the safety rules for using electrical circuits. Today there are three main wiring options.
- The most popular way of laying wiring is to connect all the constituent elements of the network using junction boxes. Such a scheme provides for the installation of a shield on the landing in a specially equipped niche, and not in a residential area. In the shield there is a device for monitoring the consumed electricity and several bags. The input of electricity to the apartment is carried out by means of a cable, the wiring of which is carried out through the rooms using distribution boxes.
- The “Star” wiring diagram implies that each element is connected by a separate line connected directly to the shield through an automatic toggle switch. With such a wiring, the consumption of wires, physical work and the cost of the project as a whole significantly increase. However, having assessed all the advantages and disadvantages, it becomes clear that all costs are justified, since the system provides the ability to fully control each consumer separately.
- Similar to the previous version of the electrical wiring is the scheme - "Loop". In this option, there is only one distinctive feature, which is to connect several consumers to one cable. This reduces the amount of installation work and consumables, which leads to a reduction in the cost of the project.
In most cases, the wiring diagram provides for a combination of several cable laying methods at the same time. At the same time, it is very important to think through everything to the smallest detail in order to achieve maximum efficiency and safety of the electrical circuit in the end result.
Standard scheme
It is advisable to implement all ideas for arranging electrical circuits before starting installation work in a detailed diagram laid out on a sheet of paper. At the same time, it is important to take into account the layout of each individual room, which will allow you to calculate the number of distribution groups and power grid elements. For convenience, each group can be performed as a separate scheme.
From practice, it was found that the maximum efficiency of wiring is achieved by combining consumption sources into several groups, each of which is connected to a separate automatic bag. Thanks to this technical solution, further repairs and maintenance of the electrical network are facilitated without the need to de-energize the entire apartment. In addition, connecting all consumers to one line is possible only if there is a cable with a large cross section, which is able to withstand the increased load that occurs when all electrical appliances in the apartment are turned on at the same time.
When placing the shield directly in the living room, it becomes possible to connect electrical appliances to individual machines. This greatly increases the efficiency and safety of using the electrical network. But, in that case, why such a scheme is not widely used? Everything is quite simple - this option of connecting devices to the AC network greatly increases the cost of implementing the project. Therefore, consumers are divided into the following groups:
- lighting group of living quarters and corridor;
- supply of electricity to the rooms;
- power supply in the kitchen and hallway;
- supply of light and electricity to the bathroom and bathroom. At the same time, this group implies an increased danger due to constantly high humidity;
- if the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, then its connection must also be carried out separately.
To ensure maximum safety of electrical installations, each group must be equipped with an RCD - a special protective device, which is nothing more than a differential circuit breaker at maximum current values. Also, such protective devices must be equipped with wiring in the bathroom and in the kitchen.
After the final formation of the main groups, it is necessary to distribute in which places consumers will be placed, such as an electric stove, water heater, air conditioner, etc. At the next stage, the marking of the installation of switches, junction boxes, lamps and sockets is carried out. In this case, all the elements must be included in the wiring diagram, based on which, you can calculate the number of wires.
It is very important that the electrical wiring diagram be drawn up in several copies, one of which must be saved for the future. After all the little things are taken into account, you can draw up a detailed final drawing in accordance with the exact plan of each room.
All installation points of electrical elements are marked on the diagram in accordance with the generally accepted notation and connected by lines denoting wires. To improve the readability of the diagram, it is desirable to designate different groups of wires in different colors.
The scheme must necessarily include all the dimensions of the premises, the distances from the electrical panel to sockets, switches and lighting sources, etc. Such a detailed plan will allow as soon as possible to carry out high-quality installation work and calculate all the necessary consumables, which will make it possible to plan expenses.
Video: electrical wiring diagram in the apartment
In order to correctly make an apartment wiring diagram, you should know some important requirements for laying wires in residential buildings.
- The bathroom is not supplied with outlets, except for one connected via a transformer to turn on low voltage appliances such as an electric shaver.
- It is unacceptable to connect the grounding of the socket to the zero terminal. It is also strictly forbidden to ground the wiring elements to the battery or water supply. It is unsafe for the tenants of the apartment.
- If a stove is installed in the kitchen that is connected to an alternating current network or other powerful consumers, then the main machine must be of a large denomination so that false positives do not occur.
- Wiring must be carried out only in a vertical or horizontal direction.
- Reversing the direction of the wiring can put a nail or drill into a live wire during repairs. Crossing of cables is also unacceptable.
- It is important that electrical wires run 15 cm from the floor or ceiling surface, as well as window and door frames and external corners of the room.
- The distance from the heating or water pipes should not be less than 3 cm. The wiring to the socket should come from the bottom, while to the switch from the top.
It is desirable that all do-it-yourself sockets and switches are located on the same level. So, for sockets, the acceptable height from the floor is 30 cm, while for switches they retreat from 80 cm to 1 m. Naturally, if necessary, these parameters can be changed to suit the needs of the residents of the apartment.
How to make do-it-yourself wiring
For laying electrical wires in the apartment, you must strictly follow the prepared scheme. At the same time, there is a certain sequence of doing such work with your own hands.
For the correct connection of wires, it uses three different methods - using terminals, soldering or twisting, which can be viewed on the video. The first two are considered the most effective in use, as they are considered the most reliable and have a high degree of security, although they are more difficult to do with your own hands.
Video: electrical wiring
Which wires to choose
To properly make the wiring in the apartment, you need to buy suitable wires. At the same time, copper cable is considered the best for wiring for the simple reason that it has maximum flexibility, is less brittle and has a high current conductivity. It is also more convenient to mount it, unlike its aluminum counterpart.
In apartments, in most cases, wires are laid with two or three cores with a cross section of 2.5–3 square mm for sockets and 1.5 for switches and lamps. For more powerful consumers, a separate line is laid with wires over 3 mm square, which will allow them not to overheat.
The wiring diagram may well be drawn up and implemented independently. But the responsibility for the quality of its work and the safety of residents will lie with the person who carried out the installation work. Therefore, at least minimal knowledge in this area is welcome.
Video: how to choose the right cable section
Knowing the basic principles of electrical work, you can do the wiring in the house yourself and save a sufficient amount. The basis of all subsequent types of construction work, after the construction of walls and roofs, or before major repairs, is the correct installation of electrical wiring. I will try to talk about the most basic principles of electrical installation.
Moreover, it is not difficult to make it with your own hands, but for this you need to have the necessary knowledge and equipment. Equipment can be bought, but we will try to talk about the necessary knowledge in a popular way.
How to make electrical wiring?
1. Wiring diagram.
In most cases, the wiring diagram is compiled by the owner of the construction arbitrarily, in other words, from the bulldozer. And, as a rule, when the masters who came to do this work are standing over his head.
The schema is as follows. Using a piece of chalk or a piece of brick, draw the locations of sockets and switches on the walls. Switches near the doors, and sockets in the corners of the rooms. Are you familiar with this situation?
After the completion of construction work, the sockets are behind the furniture, and the switches are behind the open door, which, you see, is not very convenient.
The quality of the execution of the wiring diagram can be judged by the number of electrical extension cords and tees used in housing after the completion of construction work.
Therefore, the wiring diagram, indicating the location of sockets, switches and junction boxes, must be prepared in advance. You also need to calculate the required load, wire cross-section, and divide consumers into groups.
There must be at least two groups of consumers, that is, two circuits. One is lighting and the other is sockets. It is better if each room in the house has such two circuits separately. In addition, each powerful electrical appliance - an oven, electric stove or boiler must have a separate connection with its own machine.
It is imperative to coordinate this scheme with the location of heating pipes, water pipes and gas in the premises, the future arrangement of furniture and the place of stationary household electrical appliances. It is forbidden to place the socket closer than 50 cm from various pipes, radiators and sinks.
The socket can be located at the height from the floor that suits you best. In most cases, this is 30-40 cm from the floor. But be sure to consider the thickness of the screed and the future floor covering.
If you are in doubt whether to put an outlet here or not, put it on. It is better to have an extra outlet than not have it in the right place. After all, the arrangement of furniture in the apartment can change at any time.
And now about the requirements for switches. The switch should be located at a distance of 90-95 cm from the floor and 15 cm from the doorway, near the door to the room, and always on the side of the door handle.
The location of the switches should be such that it is clear which switch is responsible for which lighting circuit.
In the off position, the upper part of the switch should protrude, and in the on position, the lower part.
Two single-gang switches will always be better than one two-gang. But this requirement does not apply to chandelier switches.
The switchboard should be located in an accessible, dry place, preferably near the front door, at a height of no more than 70 meters from the floor. In no case in the bathroom or pantry, especially not in the wardrobe. Near it there should not be any connections of sanitary communications. All current-carrying parts in it must be closed.
2. Wire selection.
The wire must have conductors with different colors of insulation. Therefore, you need to take the entire wire of one manufacturer with the same color range of cores.
For wiring, it is best to use a solid copper wire, brand VVG - flat in double insulation. Better with the letters NG, which means non-flammable. Be sure to buy wire marked with trusted and well-known manufacturers. When buying, require a quality certificate for it from the seller. Do not take unmarked wire of unknown origin, even if it is much cheaper. Wiring in the house is done for more than one year and you can’t save here.
Do not use aluminum wire. With the same cross section, copper wire can withstand power 1.5 times more than aluminum. And with the current filling of the home with various household appliances, this is very important. In addition, copper wire is more durable, strong, less prone to corrosion than aluminum.
And now attention. For capital wiring, you cannot use a stranded soft wire of the PVS grades (like this - it is double-insulated, round) and ShVVP (like this) - they are mainly used only for extension cords. Such a wire has more resistance, and the electrical conductivity is lower than that of a single-core wire, so it heats up more when loaded. Although it is soft and easy to lay in the manufacture of wiring.
Do not use for electrical wiring in an apartment or house, at the same time wires of different brands and from different metals.
And now attention. Remember one of the basic rules for selecting the wire section. So that the wire does not heat up, one of its squares or 1 mm2 of the wire section must carry a total current of not more than 9 amperes, that is, devices with a power of not more than 2 kilowatts can be connected with such a cable.
Based on this, the following cable with a cross section of one core must be used in combination with the appropriate circuit breakers:
One more thing. If you plan to install sockets with grounding, and you have a ground loop equipped in accordance with all the rules, then you need to use a three-core copper cable for the sockets. Modern rules for organizing electrical wiring require the installation of sockets only with grounding.
But do not install sockets with grounding if the wiring is two-wire, without a ground wire! This can be confusing for the consumer. He may think that the outlet is protected by grounding and bitterly pay for it.
3. Choice of equipment.
When buying sockets and switches, pay attention to their quality and the presence of markings on withstand power. Do not buy very cheap and very expensive. Take the average price category. In my opinion, the difference in price does not cover the difference in quality.
Buy installation boxes (sockets) for them of the appropriate size and quality. All imported sockets and switches are designed for European standard installation boxes with a diameter of 68 mm.
If you plan to make a panel strip from sockets and switches, then the sockets should have special protrusions on the sides to connect them to each other, at a certain distance.
Circuit breakers, and other switchboard equipment, buy only well-known and trusted brands. It's not worth saving money here.
4. Installation of electrical wiring. Wire laying.
In houses with wooden walls, wiring is done externally. If you need to make an internal one, then only in a metal pipe. Sockets, switches and junction boxes in a wooden house can only be installed outdoors. If it is necessary to install internal, then also only in special installation boxes for wooden structures. All wire connections must be located only outside the walls.
In a brick house, wiring can be both internal and external. Near combustible structures made of plastic or wood, a metal cable channel is used to protect the wire. To protect the wire inside the walls, a plastic corrugation is used, and on the outside of the finished walls, a plastic box is used.
For internal wiring, two methods are used. The first, under plaster - from above along the walls, and the second, with cutting grooves - strobes in the wall where the wiring is placed. To avoid damage to the wire during further work, the wire must be completely recessed into the recess of the strobe, without protrusions. To cut the strobes, they use various equipment - from a grinder with a diamond disc to a puncher and a special chasing cutter.
It is especially important that according to existing standards, the wire should be laid only vertically and horizontally, and only with right angles. It can not be laid randomly throughout the room. Vertical sections of wires should not pass closer than 10 cm to the corners of the room, as well as window and door openings.
The wires are not laid in a bundle (they cannot be tied together), but each separately, with a distance of at least 3 mm between them. Because in a bundle, the wires have less ability to dissipate heat and can overheat. Also, there should be no intersection of wires with each other.
The wire from each outlet or switch should run vertically up to the ceiling. Then, at a distance of 10 to 25 cm from the ceiling, depending on how thick the ceiling will be (plaster, stretch, drywall), a junction box is placed and a wire channel is formed horizontally to the floor.
If necessary, a horizontal section can be laid - on the ceiling, under the floor, or horizontally to the floor, but not lower than 10-25 cm from it.
Such norms exist so that after covering the wires with facing materials, you know at any time where they pass. Violation of this rule can lead to damage to the wiring and tragic consequences. If you decide to hang, for example, a picture on a wall or a cornice on a window, then you will know for sure that you cannot drill a hole above the socket or switch to the ceiling, as well as at a distance of about 10-25 cm from the ceiling. And in all other places it can be done safely.
At the connection points (socket, box), be sure to leave a wire with a length of at least 25 cm.
The choice of elements for fastening the wire to the wall today is quite diverse. A single wire is best strengthened with the help of such a herringbone mount. It has various shapes and sizes. It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall, preferably not in mortar, but in brick, put this "herringbone" on the wire, and insert it into the hole. The wire is fixed. For mounting a metal or plastic sleeve with a wire, there are also a variety of fasteners.
When outputting wires to the switchboard, they must be marked, glued with masking tape indicating exactly where this wire goes.
5. Wire connection.
Now attention! An important point.
Wires intended for lighting and sockets with a cross section of 1.5 to 2.5 mm2 can be cut, connected and branched from them.
The wire intended for powering electric stoves, flow heaters, that is, for powering powerful electrical appliances, with a cross section of 4 mm2 and above, cannot be cut, connected and branched. It must be solid, and go directly from the shield to the device. In addition, for each such device you need to put a separate machine in the shield.
This rule must never be broken!
The order of connecting the wires, in each case, is different, depending on which consumers are suitable for each particular box.
But there is one iron rule that should never be broken.
Attention! For a break, a wire with a phase, and not with zero, must be connected to the machine or switch.
The connection of wires must be reliable, safe and durable.
Simple twisting is prohibited by the electrical installation regulations. No matter how well it is made, over time the wires oxidize, the contact weakens, heats up and can lead to a fire. The twisting of copper with aluminum is also prohibited, because this is a guarantee of huge problems in the future.
And now about the methods of connecting wires.
The first way is welding wires with a welding inverter. First, a twist is made, and then its end is connected by welding. But not everyone at home has such a welding machine.
The second way is compression. Special sleeves of a certain size are put on the wires to be connected and, using special press tongs, are pressed into the sleeve. But not everyone, again, has such pliers, and the simplest ones cost about $ 20.
The third way is soldering. The twist of wires can be soldered using a soldering iron with a minimum power of 100 watts, tin and solder. The main thing is not to overheat the wires at the soldering point so that the insulation does not melt. This method is more accessible at home, with certain skills, of course.
After all these methods, the wire connection must be insulated with heat shrink or electrical tape.
All of the listed types of connections are reliable, but they are non-separable, time-consuming, and already outdated. Among other things, their implementation requires special equipment, and installers charge more for such connections.
So here I want to say a very important remark.
Namely, why is it not necessary to use these wire connections in a house or apartment: welding, crimping and soldering?
Because, any of the modern self-clamping terminal blocks manufactured by WAGO, and not Chinese fakes, can easily withstand the current that is used in a residential area. In addition, no additional tools and insulation are required for such a connection. Everyone can connect the wires using a terminal block with their own hands. And if necessary, you can easily change the circuit, because the connection with the help of terminal blocks is collapsible.
Again I ask for your attention. It is very important. In modern electrical wiring, a cable with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm2 must be connected only with terminal clamps, and machines no higher than 16 amperes should be used for them.
And the cable from 4.0 mm2 and above, as you remember, I hope, cannot be connected at all, it must be led intact from the switchboard to the device.
6. Verification of the completed electrical wiring.
Be sure after the wiring, you need to once again check the correct connection and connection of all wires visually. You can check them with the device. For such a check, there are special devices for sale (and this is not a tester), but they are not cheap. Therefore, it makes no sense to buy such a device for the home; it is easier to do an independent check by spending an extra hour or two. If errors are found, and this happens, it is necessary, of course, to correct them.
7. Assembly and installation of the switchboard.
The main thing that should be in the shield is a meter and circuit breakers - one common and several for consumer groups. All other equipment, RCD, difavtomat, voltage relay and more, it is advisable to install in order to protect the life of the household and the integrity of the connected electrical appliances.
The main machine is needed in order to de-energize the entire apartment with one movement of the hand. A difavtomat is needed to do the same action automatically.
The residual current device of the RCD is triggered if a differential leakage current appears in the network to which it is connected, when the insulation is damaged, it breaks through the heating element or other element onto the housing. When a person touches damaged wires or non-insulated parts of the equipment, the RCD will instantly turn off the power to the network.
Remember that the RCD does not protect the network from overload and short circuit. That is why the RCD is always connected in series with the machine. These two devices work in pairs, so to speak: one protects against current leakage, the other from overloads and short circuits. If you turn on the RCD without a machine and connect the phase and zero, having received a short circuit, then the RCD will not work. And the wiring, if there are no other protection devices, will burn out along with the RCD.
The differential machine is a unique device that combines a circuit breaker and an RCD. That is, the differential machine is able to protect your wiring from short circuits and overloads, as well as from the occurrence of current leaks.
The voltage relay or UZM (multifunctional protection device) turns off the power supply when it goes out of the range you set. This relay is installed to protect electrical appliances connected to the network from power surges in this network.
The circuit breaker must be accurately sized for the load. Here you need to apply the rule that it is better to put an automatic machine of less power than a larger one. In order for the machine to work earlier and turn off the power, than the wire overheats, a short circuit occurs and the wiring catches fire.
Remember that the machine does not protect the electrical appliance connected to it, but only the wire that feeds it from overheating.
About what kind of machine you need to protect the cable with what section, I already spoke above.
The main mistake here is that people are trying to install machines with more power, which is why wiring burns out and apartments burn out.
The wire does not heat up if a device of the appropriate power is connected to it. Therefore, there is no need to set the machine in terms of power higher than the calculated one.
The machines are of various categories. I won't explain the differences to you.
You only need to remember the following. For all sockets in the apartment, you need to use machines only with the English letter "B".
For lighting, you can use automatic machines of category B and category C.
And for all other power devices, you can use category C machines.
Attention! In no case should category D machines be installed in the apartment; they are designed for powerful machine tools and electric motors with high starting currents.
8. Installation of socket boxes.
A place for an installation box in a brick or concrete wall can be drilled using a puncher with a special nozzle - a crown with a diameter of 70-75 mm. The required cable is inserted into the socket.
Socket boxes are installed after carrying out all the necessary finishing work with the walls. That is, we drill a hole for the socket on a bare, untreated wall, and install the socket on the wall with a complete and finished finish.
This process is simple. The hole for the socket, in a brick or concrete wall, is filled with a quick-hardening mortar, it can be a mortar of building gypsum.
Then the socket or switch box must be inserted into the hole, aligned to the wall surface and horizontally with a level so that the socket does not protrude from the wall and is not skewed to one side.
In drywall, a hole for the socket is cut out with a special cutter with a diameter of 68 mm and fixed with side clamps.
9. Installation of sockets and switches.
There are no special tricks here. It is necessary to remove the top cover of the socket or the switch keys. Connect the wires to the terminals, after cutting them to a length of no more than 10 cm. Lay the wires on the bottom of the socket. Insert the device into the socket until it stops. Fasten the device to the socket with screws and tighten the bolts in the niches on the sides to the stop, which press the special fastening tabs to the socket. Then reinstall the socket cover or switch keys.
After installing sockets, switches and a shield, we apply voltage to the wiring and check the correct operation of all sockets, switches and machines.
10. And the last.
You can do the wiring in the house yourself with your own hands, especially for a person who knows what zero is and what a phase is. But there are many different nuances here that even the so-called experts in this matter incorrectly perform. For example, when building a dacha, I only got to a normal electrician on the fourth attempt. Electrical installation is a very important section of work to trust it to non-professionals.
If you decide to hire an electrician, ask him how he plans to carry out the work and what tool he has for this. Real electricians have a whole set of special tools to carry out all types of electrical wiring work. And if electricians come to you who have one hammer for two and that one is borrowed from a neighbor, then drive them in the neck.
Ask the master where he has already done the wiring and ask the owners about the results. By the way he makes an order for consumables, you can understand his qualifications and draw conclusions. After starting the editing, carefully follow its work, based on the recommendations that I told you about in this video.
And if you want to do the wiring yourself, follow these rules too.
What is not clear, ask in the comments, and you will succeed. Remember that successful wiring depends on care, attention and following the instructions.
Choose the right wires, the power of the machines and try to do high-quality wiring with your own hands.
Video. How to make electrical wiring in the house?
Not every home craftsman knows how to properly install electrical wiring in a house with his own hands. We will help to formulate the basics for a novice master and equip the house with light and warmth.
The electrical communication device can be carried out both in an open and in a closed way. The open type is laid on the surface of the wall, covering the cables with plastic tubes or skirting boards. The height level for this type is not regulated and is chosen arbitrarily. When performing installation work on open wiring, it is forbidden to combine cables of different capacities in one plinth. Moreover, these decorative elements must be selected from non-combustible material, which, moreover, has insulating properties. In basements and attics, cables are reinforced with special brackets.
Concealed wiring is located in voids specially designed for this purpose, inside suspended ceiling structures or partitions. It is recommended to lay the power cable at the same time as laying the floors. If there are no ready-made niches, then it is produced, and the wire is laid in the resulting grooves. When installing an electrical system for lighting fixtures under a layer of plaster, it is necessary to use cables with protective insulation.
When doing the installation of electrical wiring in a private house, it must be remembered that communications hidden by plaster should run perfectly horizontally or vertically. By laying cables in all sorts of voids, you can look for the shortest paths, while saving wire. When installing electricity in suspended ceiling structures, it is necessary to use materials that do not support combustion. When installing in rooms with high humidity, do not use wires with a protective sheath made of metal.
Before starting work, you need to carefully consider how to conduct electrical wiring in the house, observing all safety rules. After all, improperly performed work can have unpleasant consequences. In places where the cable branches, it is necessary to install special junction boxes that will hide the connection points and protect them from unwanted short circuits. When installing a hidden type of wiring, it is necessary to install sockets and switches of a special type.
The installation height of the electric cable is self-adjusting, but must be at least 40 cm from the floor, for the safety of the residents of the house from electric shock in the event of unforeseen flooding. Following safety regulations, sockets should be installed at a considerable distance from sinks and radiators. The distance between these objects must be at least 50 cm.
Installation of sockets in rooms prone to high humidity (baths, saunas) is allowed at a distance exceeding 2.6 m from the water source.
When installing electric motors and various other power equipment, it is necessary to choose models whose interior can only be accessed with the help of special tools. Connecting appliances and electric stoves requires the use of a cable that has an appropriate cross section and is necessarily covered with a metal sheath. Such a wire can be laid under the floor, choosing the shortest path from the machines to the device.
Before laying the wiring in the house, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan on paper, marking on it each switch and the location of heating and power devices. Using the scheme, you can accurately calculate the required number of cables of a certain section, which will seriously save money. Next, we will tell you how to do electrical wiring in the house, and even the most distant person from electricity can do it on their own.
Do-it-yourself wiring in the house - let's get to work
The installation of electrical communications is not difficult, the main thing is to follow the necessary sequence, and everything will definitely work out. So now is the time to proceed directly to the discussion of the process of how to make electrical wiring in the house.
How to make wiring in the house with your own hands - step by step diagram
Step 1: Markup
Before starting installation, regardless of the type chosen, it is necessary to make markings by drawing directly on the wall the places where junction boxes, switches and, of course, sockets will be located. It is also necessary to note the route of the wires where they will be mounted. Marking is done with a crayon or marker and a long ruler. As a simplified option, to mark the places where the cable passes, you can use a nylon cord painted with bright paint.
Step 2: Preparing the Seats
Using a puncher, in the places where the junction boxes will be located, it is necessary to drill holes, the diameter of which should not exceed 70 mm. And where the wire is supposed to enter, additional recesses are made to facilitate installation work. When working with a perforator, it is advisable to periodically moisten the drilling site with water. This will help save the drill, and there will be much less dust..
In places where electric lighting is carried out through the wall to another room, it is necessary to make holes of small diameter. If a private house being created according to the plan will be mounted in a wall, it is necessary to dig furrows in it that exactly correspond to the scheme. For this, a grinder or a specially designed construction wall chaser is suitable. When working with a grinder or a puncher, in order to maintain your health, you must follow certain safety measures.
Step 3: Wiring
When laying the wires, it is necessary to move from the switchboard in the direction of the mounting boxes, gradually moving to the lighting fixtures. Fixing the cable on the wall must be done using fasteners, which are installed at a distance of about 30 cm. The places where the wire enters the junction box, as well as all bends, are additionally fixed. For fixing, you can use all kinds of remnants and wire cuts that are nailed to the wall, while grabbing the cable to be mounted. It is also possible to fix communications laid in recesses with a solution with the addition of alabaster.
Step 4: Installing Back Boxes
Electrical wiring in the house is done before the plastering of the room. Junction boxes are installed using alabaster mortar, a small amount of which is placed in the recess. Before installing this element, wires are inserted into it, then, using a certain force, they are pressed into the mortar mass, but so that the edges of the box protrude above the wall surface. All such elements must be on the same horizontal line for an even distribution of switches.
First, let's deal with the general rules for laying electrical wiring. Electrical wires and cables must be laid strictly vertically or strictly horizontally with rotation angles of 90 degrees. The diagram below clearly shows the wiring diagram with all the recommended indents, as well as the recommended installation height of switches and sockets:
It should be noted right away that wiring can be done in two ways: open or hidden:
Open laying of electrical wiring is the simplest and most inexpensive solution, and one of the advantages of this type of wiring, in addition to simplicity and low cost of installation, is the convenience of its repair, but the main disadvantage of such a laying is considered to be a violation of the appearance of the interior of the room. Typically, such wiring is carried out in one of three ways: in a box (cable channel), on brackets, corrugation (or metal hose), or in PVC pipes.
Examples of open wiring in the box and on the brackets:
Wiring in a box Wiring on brackets
Gasket in box Gasket on brackets in corrugation
Installation of hidden electrical wiring is a more time-consuming process in which electrical wiring is hidden under wall cladding or placed in strobes:
The main advantage of this method of laying electrical wiring is the preservation of the appearance of the interior, and in addition, good protection of electrical wiring from mechanical damage is provided (although of course it is still possible to drill it or pierce it with a nail while hanging a picture). The disadvantages are the complexity of installation and the complexity of repairing such wiring, in addition, this method of laying, as a rule, is more expensive.
Sockets, switches, junction boxes and switchboards also have 2 types of execution: for open and for indoor (concealed) installation:
Installation of open wiring
STEP 1 (general) Drawing up the wiring diagram
This stage is common when laying both hidden and open wiring.
We determine the installation locations for sockets, switches, lamps and an electrical panel (if needed). For example, let's draw up the following wiring diagram in one of the rooms (for clarity, all our wiring will be located on one wall):
Ready! We determined where we want to install sockets, a switch, where the lamp will be located, and also where we will install the electrical panel and made a wiring diagram. Now you can proceed directly to its installation.
STAGE 2 (Open wiring installation) Electrical installation
To begin with, we will stipulate that the most common ways of laying open wiring are laying in a box and laying on brackets, so we will consider them:
Installation video:
installation of open wiring step - 2 STAGE 3 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of boxes (cable channels), cable laying.
Now that everything is in place, we can proceed with the installation of the box (cable channel) along the planned lines for laying electrical wiring.
A cable channel is a plastic box in which electrical wiring is laid. It consists of a base and a cover:
Boxes come in a variety of sizes and colors, and typically have a standard length of 2 meters. For installation, the boxes are cut into sections of the required length (usually the box is cut with a hacksaw), for example, as can be seen from our installation diagram below, we need to cut the box into the following sections:
Segments 2 meters long - 2 pcs
Segments 1.5 meters long - 3 pcs
Segments 0.5 meters long - 2 pcs
Segments 0.3 meters long - 1 pc.
Segments 0.2 meters long - 1 pc
In total, the total length of the box we need is 10 meters (that is, you can buy 5 strips of the box, 2 meters each).
After the boxes are cut, you can proceed with their installation, they are mounted very simply: you need to open the lid of the box and screw the base of the box to the wall with self-tapping screws (in case the wall is made of wood or drywall) or on plastic dowel-nails (in case the wall is brick , concrete, etc.). After the box is attached to the wall, a cable is laid in it and the box is closed with a lid. The corners of the box can be closed with special plastic corners, it is also possible to make corners with the box trimmed at 45 °:
Video of the installation of the box (the video is not the best, but nothing better could be found on the Internet, maybe in the future we will shoot our own video on this topic, but for now we have to use what we have):
installation of open wiring step - 3 If you decide to install the wiring on brackets, then instead of installing the box, after installing sockets, switches and everything else, a cable is immediately laid, which is attached to the wall with brackets. Staples (clips) for fastening cables are plastic in different sizes, designed for certain types and sizes of cables:
Also brackets can be universal:
IMPORTANT! When laying the wiring on the brackets, remember that in this way it is forbidden to fasten ordinary cables to combustible bases (for example, to a wooden wall), for this you must use special cables that do not support combustion (do not spread combustion).
STEP 4 (Fixed wiring) Assembling the circuit.
Now that everything is mounted and the cabling is done along the walls, you can start connecting sockets, switches, lamps and assembling by connecting wires in junction boxes.
Installation of hidden electrical wiring
STEP 1 Drawing up the wiring diagram
This stage is common when installing both hidden and open wiring and has already been described above.
STAGE 2 (Flush-wiring installation) Drilling holes in the wall
If you are installing hidden electrical wiring, then after drawing up the installation diagram (STAGE 1), you need to start drilling holes in the wall with a diameter of 72mm (standard diameter for socket boxes) in places where switches, sockets and junction boxes will be installed. Drilling holes is usually performed with a puncher (or drill) with a special crown for concrete:
STAGE 3 (Installation of flush wiring) Wall chasing
After the holes are ready, we ditch the wall along the planned lines for laying electrical wiring. According to the technology, this is done as follows: First, 2 parallel cuts are made in the concrete wall with a special wall chaser, after which the concrete between these cuts is knocked out with a perforator:
However, there are other ways to make a strobe, instead of a strobe cutter, you can use an angle grinder (grinder), or you can even do drilling strobes (but this method is only suitable if you need to lay a maximum of a couple of meters of cable, because the method is too laborious .):
Video of the execution of the strobe:
STAGE 4 (Flush-wiring installation) Cabling
Now it is necessary to lay the cable in the prepared strobes so that the cable does not fall out of the strobe during the laying process, it must be fixed there, this can be done either by grabbing the cable with gypsum plaster, because. it quickly hardens, either with a special bracket:
Video of laying the cable in the strobe:
STEP 5 (Flush-wiring installation) Installation of back boxes
It's time to fix the mounting boxes in the holes drilled during the second stage (the boxes in which our switches and sockets will be installed in the future). It is better to fix mounting boxes on gypsum plaster (Tip: gypsum dries very quickly, so it is better to breed in small portions, because there is a risk that while you are mounting one socket all your remaining mortar will turn into stone).
In order to fix the mounting box (socket box) it is necessary:
- Clean our hole from dust and concrete fragments, after which we wet the surface of the hole.
- Put plaster in the hole, with the expectation that after installing the socket box in the hole, there would be no places left unfilled with plaster along the edges, but without fanaticism.
- We insert the socket box into the hole, having previously broken out the hatch for the cable insertion from above, this hatch should be opposite the shtraba.
- We press the box until it is flush with the wall.
- After the solution has dried, remove excess plaster with a spatula.
The electrification of residential premises is not an easy task. But if you have some knowledge and skills, learn certain rules, then you will be able to do the wiring in the house yourself.
In any case, if you do not dare to contact an electrician, the knowledge gained on our website will allow you to control the work of the called master, point out shortcomings and avoid shortcomings. As a result, this will save you time and help you avoid problems and associated waste.
Do-it-yourself wiring - basic rules
Before starting work, read the Rules for Electrical Installations (PUE), which describes the basics of working with equipment. Do-it-yourself wiring in a house requires the following conditions:
- free access to metering equipment, distribution boxes, sockets and switches is required;
- they are mounted at the level of 60 - 150 cm from the floor;
- opening doors should not block access;
- the cable is fed from above;
- the installation height of sockets varies from 50 to 80 centimeters from the floor. For safety reasons, they cannot be placed less than 50 centimeters from electric and gas stoves, heating radiators, pipes. The power supply is from below;
- the number of sockets is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6m square. This rule does not apply to the kitchen, here they put sockets according to the number of household appliances. To power the bathroom, it is better to provide a separate transformer located outside this room (to lower the voltage);
- the cable is laid with strict observance of the vertical and horizontal (without bends and diagonals, so as not to damage it during installation and perforation);
- horizontal are laid at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from ceilings and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. Vertically located cables are laid at least 10 cm from the edge of a door or window opening. The distance to the gas pipes should not be less than 40 centimeters;
- wiring should not come into contact with metal building structures;
- special boxes are used for wiring and connecting cables. Connections must be securely insulated. It is forbidden to connect copper wires with aluminum.
Wiring diagrams
All electrics in the house begin with the development of a detailed plan and diagram. The main thing in the diagram is to indicate the places for installing devices and laying cables, it is also important to accurately determine the location of sockets, switches, lamps and household appliances.
To simplify the wiring, consumers are divided into groups.
The grouping of consumers can be arbitrary. It simplifies the connection scheme, distributes the load and saves materials.
The wiring diagram of a house in a country house differs from the apartment one by the cable connection method: in a multi-storey building, it starts from the floor board. Electricity in a private house requires connection from an air line or from an external distributor.
Current strength determination
An important point in planning electrical wiring is the calculation of the current strength in the electrical network. Knowing this load indicator, you can accurately determine which machine and cable with the appropriate cross section are needed.
Current strength \u003d Total power of household appliances (W) / Mains voltage (V).
For example: eight 60W lamps, 1600W electric kettle, 350W refrigerator, 1200W electric oven. Mains voltage 220 V. Result: ((8*60) +1600+350+1200)/220=16.5A.
Standard house consumption does not go beyond 25 amperes.
Cable sizing
An equally important task is to determine the cross section of the cables that will be used for distributing electricity. The safety of your home depends on the correct choice. Inconsistency of the cross section with the loads will cause overheating of the cable, which can cause a short circuit and a fire.
You can determine the required cable size using the table.
For example, if the calculated current strength is 16.5A, a closed wiring is planned using copper wires, then a cable of at least 2 square meters is required. mm. For 25 Amperes - 4 mm 2. For different distribution groups, a cable is taken in accordance with the expected load.
Due to the fact that the table indicates extremely accurate values, and in fact there are frequent fluctuations in current strength, a certain margin of section is needed. To determine the length of the cable, you need to measure all distances with a tape measure and add up to four meters in reserve.
Near the entrance to the apartment, a lighting panel is installed, into which protective shutdown devices are mounted and wires are connected. Usually, for a network of switches and lighting, it is supposed to install an RCD at 16 A, sockets - at 20 A. The electric stove requires a more powerful installation - at 32 A and is connected separately.
Installation of electrical wiring
After all the preliminary calculations, the installation itself will not cause any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow the recommendations and observe safety precautions.
The first stage is markup. We mark the cable laying line with a marker. Next, we note the location of the lamps, sockets and SCHO (shutdown shield).
At the second stage, we ditch the walls, if hidden wiring is necessary, or we mount it in an open way. Holes for equipment are made with a puncher using a crown nozzle. Using a wall chaser (a tool with two parallel diamond discs) or a puncher, they make cable grooves about 20 mm deep, where the wires should fit comfortably in width.
On the ceiling, the cable can be attached to the ceiling and hidden by a decorative ceiling. You can also hide the wiring in the voids of the floors by making I / O holes and tighten it there.
Next, a puncher makes holes in the corner of the room for cable entry through the wall. Now you can proceed directly to the installation.
First you need to install the SCHO, inside which the RCD is connected. At the ready-to-connect SCHO, there are zero terminals on top, grounding terminals on the bottom, and automatic machines between them.
Then the cable is brought inside and left unconnected because only a certified electrician with the appropriate certificate has the right to mount it to the distribution board. To connect the input cable to the ASC, the blue wire is attached to zero, and to the upper contact (to the phase) of the RCD - white, to ground - yellow with a green stripe (colors may vary depending on the manufacturer). The machines are connected in series from above with a white wire jumper or a special factory-made copper bus. Now you can wire up.
Open mounting option
Installation of open wiring is carried out in the following sequence:
- According to the marked marks, we fix the boxes or cable channels. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, 5 - 10 cm from the edges in increments of 50 centimeters.
- We mount distribution boxes, sockets and switches. Since they are hung on the walls, we apply them to the location, mark the fastening points, drill and fix.
- We lay the cable from sockets to the SC, starting from the connection points using VVG - 3 * 2.5 wires.
- From the lamps and switches to the distribution box we conduct VVG - 3 * 1.5 cable.
The cores of the wires in the junction boxes are connected by color with clamps (PPE caps) or using WAGO type quick connection terminals.
VVG cable 3 * 2.5 in SCHO is attached with a phase (brown or red wire) to the RCD, zero (blue) is attached at the top, grounding (yellow wiring with a green stripe) - at the bottom. Now the finished circuit is “called” by the tester. If all is well, then we invite an electrician.
Flush wiring
In the hidden version, the installation of wiring differs only in that the wire is laid using special corrugations that fit into previously prepared strobes, which will allow, if necessary, to replace the wiring without destroying the finish. Socket boxes and junction boxes are installed in the niches made.
Upon completion of all work, the strobes are sealed with plaster; gypsum putty can be used to seal the wiring.
Electrical wiring in a private house
Installation of an electric cable in a private house will require special security measures, especially if the house is wooden.
Posting in such a dwelling is carried out taking into account the following requirements:
- Self-extinguishing wires and cables with excellent insulation are used.
- Distribution and installation boxes must be metal.
- All connections are sealed.
- Exposed wiring should not come into contact with walls and ceilings. It can be mounted using porcelain insulators.
- Hidden wiring is carried out through metal (copper) pipes, steel boxes without fail with grounding. When using plastic corrugations and boxes, they are mounted in plaster. This type of installation is safer and looks more aesthetically pleasing.
An additional step to improve the safety of a wooden dwelling is the installation of an RCD (differential relay) that reacts to current leakage and short circuit by turning off the machine.
Outcome
Do-it-yourself wiring in a house is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. And if you study this issue well before conducting electrical wiring, the work process will not cause any particular difficulties, and the result will please you.
Each master can make mistakes, so even if you entrusted the work to a specialist and paid for the service, monitoring his actions will help to avoid further problems. When accepting a job, you will be able to appreciate the quality and you will know what you are paying for.
