Chimney exit to the roof. How to install chimney penetrations through roofing. Preparing for the installation of the chimney

The arrangement of the chimney is a responsible job, which is usually entrusted to experienced professionals. The safety of the owners of the house, as well as the performance of the furnace, depends on the quality of its implementation. Many owners decide to do this work on their own. It is quite possible. But for this you will need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules for arranging such a system. There are a number of nuances of how to make a chimney pass through the roof, which will be discussed in detail later.

Why is it important to remove the chimney correctly?

Many people decide to equip the chimney passage through the roof on their own. This leads to various negative consequences. If the owners of the house do not know the intricacies of this process, they can turn to specialists. Their work requires additional costs. However, experienced builders will do their job well. Wanting to save money, you need to know all the nuances of this process.

If you lead the chimney through the roof incorrectly, moisture gets into the leaky joints. As a result, all the materials from which the roof is made get wet. Fungus and mold can appear in load-bearing structures. They destroy ceilings and insulation materials. The microclimate in the house can become unhealthy. To extend the life of the roof, it is necessary to create sealed joints.

Wooden structural elements must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. In some cases, the chimney may rest against the ridge beam. It will need to make a recess. On both sides, the beam is mounted on racks.

To create a chimney passage through the roof with your own hands, you need to mount a metal apron on the roof. With one edge, it should go onto the surface of the chimney at a level of 30 cm, which protrudes above the level of the roof. The second edge is brought under the roofing material in the place where the cut was made. This option is suitable for those pipes that are at a certain distance from the ridge.

If the chimney exits close to the top beam, then a metal apron will need to be brought under the ridge element. On the pipe itself, the steel sheet must be inserted into the strobe. It is made in advance. It is fixed with straps. Also, the entire system is carefully sealed with special insulating compounds.

If the width of the chimney from the side that is parallel to the ridge beam is more than 80 cm, it will be necessary to make a slope. This situation occurs when pipes from the stove, fireplace, ventilation are combined in one pipe. To protect the joint between the pipe and the roof, it is necessary to make a visor. It will divert water and snow to the sides. It is better to entrust this work to professionals, since in this case the master must have considerable experience.

Finished adapter block

The passage of the chimney through the roof in a bathhouse or other building can be sealed using a special adapter. It is used if the chimney is round and made of ceramic or metal. There are a huge number of ready-made nodes for creating a chimney passage for sale. Forms of such products may be different. On sale you can find nodes of oval, round, square or rectangular configuration.

The choice of design option depends on the material from which the roofing and rafter system are made, as well as the diameter of the chimney, the angle of inclination of the slopes. Also, the height of the attic space affects the choice of a finished node. Take into account the material of the floors in the house.

Manufacturers produce walk-through structures that consist of 2 parts. These are metal rings and flanging. If such products are smelted from ferrous metals, the wall thickness should be from 1 to 3 mm. Rings consist of 2 contours. Each of them is insulated with basalt material. This eliminates the possibility of fire in the presence of a heated pipe.

The metal from which the transition assembly is made is coated with a protective enamel. This avoids the development of corrosion. Enamel withstands high temperatures (up to +600ºС). Sometimes the penetration is made of stainless steel. The cost of such products will be much higher.

The chimney passage assembly through a soft roof or other materials can be universal. It is made from aluminium. The flange has a cone-shaped corrugation made of silicone. Several standard sizes of such products are on sale. This allows you to choose a ready-made adapter for a pipe of the appropriate size. The top of the corrugation can be cut off so that the pipe can pass through its hole. In this case, the flange is treated with a sealant. It is attached to the roof with screws. They are usually supplied as a set.

If the roof is made of embossed materials that do not allow fixing with self-tapping screws, you have to attach the system to the crate. For this, long dowels are used. This, for example, may be required if the crawl is made of reinforced concrete. It should be noted that the type of roofing material to a large extent affects the procedure for arranging the chimney outlet.

sandwich chimney

On what material the roof is covered, the features of the arrangement of the passage of the chimney pipe depend. Most often, the owners of the house choose ondulin, metal tiles, corrugated board, etc. for finishing slopes. It is also often necessary to make a chimney pass through a soft roof.

Sandwich chimneys have gained particular popularity today. They are distinguished by ease of installation, high-quality construction, durability and safety in operation. The outer body of such a pipe is made of a sheet of metal. It has a beautiful sheen. Such pipes are almost always round in shape. Therefore, for the passage through the roof of a sandwich chimney, ready-made passage elements are most often chosen. They are of two types. Most often, elastic transitional structures are purchased. If the owners do not like how a shiny pipe is combined with a similar design, they may prefer a metal transition node.

Elastic adapters are made from a flexible polymer that is resistant to elevated temperatures. The flange (lower element) of the structure is made of a flexible material. Therefore, it can be easily installed both on flat roof slopes and on a surface covered with metal tiles with high waves. The passage through the roof of a sandwich chimney will be the easiest to perform correctly using a similar design. The flange is fixed with self-tapping screws or special studs.

The advantage of elastic adapters for sandwich chimneys and other types of pipes is their low cost. At the same time, installation does not cause difficulties. It will be much more difficult to make a mistake in this case. The kit comes with detailed installation instructions.

The joints during installation are lubricated with a special heat-resistant sealant. They process the place where the pipe comes from, as well as the joint between the flange and the roof. When the sealant dries, you will need to screw the adapter with bolts. To do this, pre-drill holes in the lower flange ring.

Soft roof

The creation of a chimney passage through a roof made of flexible tiles is carried out according to a certain technique. First you need to drill a sufficient hole in the roof. A pipe will come out through it. Often the roof does not have powerful beams to fix the system. In this case, you need to purchase a prefabricated passage. It consists of two parts. This reduces the load on the floor.

Two prefabricated parts are attached with self-tapping screws, first from the inside of the roof. Outside, you need to glue a special rubber material with ordinary silicone to create a seal.

Next, you need to mount a non-combustible insulation. To do this, purchase mineral wool in rolls. With the help of basalt or fiberglass, they fill the space between the prefabricated structure and the chimney pipe. During installation, make sure that the mineral wool does not cover the rubber seal.

Roof cutting is supplied with the prefabricated passage. Its fixation occurs with the help of self-tapping screws. This option is ideal when creating a passage through the roof of the chimney from a sandwich pipe. Roof cutting allows you to protect the system from water penetration. There are many varieties of such structures. They differ in the method of execution, material and angle of inclination.

As a rule, the slope of such structures is from 15 to 55º. The choice depends on the angle of the roof. If the material for its decoration is soft rolled varieties of materials, metal cutting can be used. Also, with this method of installation, structures that have self-adhesive tape for high-quality adjoining of the system to the roof are quite suitable.

Tiles and ondulin

The passage of the chimney through the roof can be done independently even if the coating is made of tiles. In this case, the chimney is in most cases lined with bricks. In this case, you will need to perform the work with special diligence. In this case, corrugated, as well as self-adhesive sheet lead or aluminum can be used to finish the chimney.

The listed materials are sold in the form of rolls. On the one hand, they are covered with a special adhesive composition. The reverse side of such a sheet is covered with a foil of the listed metals. This design allows you to protect the chimney from mechanical damage, as well as prevent water from leaking after rain or snowfall into the house.

Another popular option for roofing is ondulin. He has a lot of positive qualities. It is also sometimes called euroslate. It does not contain asbestos. Therefore, it is classified as an environmentally friendly material. However, its disadvantage is insufficient heat resistance. The temperature limit to which this material can be exposed is 110°C. Therefore, the creation of a passage through the roof is approached very responsibly. Making it is quite difficult. However, with certain knowledge, even a novice master can cope with this task.

It is also worth saying that ondulin not only does not withstand high temperatures, but can also ignite. Therefore, for your own safety, you need to know how to properly make a passage in a roof with a similar finish. It will be necessary to cut an opening in the roof much wider than the diameter of the pipe. This increases the likelihood of leaks.

To prevent negative consequences, a metal or silicone passage through the roof for the chimney is used. Be sure to mount the roof cutting. Also in the design there is always a metal apron. The cutting angle is chosen in accordance with the position of the roof slopes. The ends of the cutting during installation are inserted under the nearby sheets of ondulin.

Decking

If you want to create a chimney passage through a corrugated roof, most often the owners of the house purchase a sandwich pipe. This is the most reliable, easy-to-install option. The corrugated board is combined with such a design perfectly. To install the chimney, make markings on the roofing.

Next, using a grinder, you will need to cut a hole. It is necessary to retreat from the intended contour a few centimeters deep. The hole in this case will decrease slightly. This circumstance must be taken into account in the design calculations. At the same time, you need to be very careful. There should be no nicks in the material.

When the hole is created, you need to make small cuts in the corners of the hole. Thanks to this action, the material with which the outer side of the ramp is trimmed can be bent up. Further, creating a chimney passage through the corrugated roofing, it will be necessary to cut holes through the ceilings. The hole should be similar to the mark made earlier.

After that, it will be possible to mount a metal box. It additionally protects the roof from overheating. A sandwich pipe is passed through this box. Further, a layer of mineral wool is inserted into the space between the chimney and the roofing material. You can also pour expanded clay. After that, a silicone seal is put on the pipe. It must be carefully glued to the corrugated board.

These manipulations allow you to create an airtight assembly. Water will not seep through it into the house.

metal tile

The passage of the chimney through the roof of metal is created using a standard external cutting. The pipe in this case is often made of brick. First, above the roof slope, you need to equip the inner apron. It must be mounted even before the roof is sheathed with metal tiles. The inner apron will need to be ditched. This structural element is made of galvanized steel. The sheet may or may not be coated.

To make a chimney pass through a metal roof, you will need to attach a steel profile to the pipe wall. It marks the upper edge of the apron. A grinder makes a strobe along the marking line. It is washed with water to remove construction dust.

Installation of the inner apron begins with its lower part. In the right places, the steel profile is cut. This element must be installed in its intended place. Next, it is cut. The apron is installed in the prepared place. It is firmly pressed to the base. In this case, the upper part must exactly match the previously created strobe.

Further, the system is fixed with self-tapping screws. They are screwed through the bottom of the inside of the apron. They must pass through the wooden elements of the roof structure. In the same way, the side and top parts of the apron are mounted. They must be at least 15 cm in size.

Apron sealing

When creating a chimney passage through the roof, which was covered with metal tiles, it is necessary to seal the inner apron. To do this, the edge that was inserted into the strobe is treated with a heat-resistant sealant.

A tie is wound under the bottom edge of the apron. It is a flat sheet designed to drain water. It is directed to the valley or down to the very eaves. You need to make a side along the edge of the tie. This can be done with pliers.

When the inner apron is installed, you can mount the outer protective screen. It is installed on the same principle as the inner apron. Only its upper edge will not sink into the strobe. It should seal the joint. For this, a special composition is used that is not afraid of high heat.

Having considered the features of arranging the passage of the chimney through the roof, you can create a high-quality system with your own hands. Water will not seep through it after snow or rain. The chimney will perform the tasks assigned to it correctly, it will not quickly become covered with soot inside. The operation of stove heating will be safe and efficient.

The theme of arranging low-rise buildings, which are increasingly appearing in suburban areas, is gaining popularity again. People want to have their own property, where they can live year-round in comfort and safety. Independence from utilities, clean air, lack of city fuss and a lot of factors that are rather fed up with the townspeople, have become the reason for the acquisition or construction of country houses, and their arrangement for a comfortable stay. One of the main issues in the arrangement that worries the owners is how to bring the chimney through the roof to ensure normal heating of buildings in the cold season and the safety of building operation.

When equipping a heating system that will operate from a stove or other device, it is necessary to accurately determine the design of the removal of combustion products, taking into account all the necessary fire safety rules and without violating the tightness of the roof.

Features of choosing a location

Getting the chimney through the roof is not as easy as it seems. Incorrect determination of the place where the pipe will be installed can further lead to poor-quality operation of the entire heating system and not only that. Let's list the main problems that can arise when choosing the wrong place for the removal of combustion products in the furnace, taking into account the fact that the sealing of the chimney on the roof and the roof itself will not be broken.

• It is not recommended to install in areas located near ventilation openings and skylights to prevent carbon monoxide from entering the interior of the room.
• Mounting at the joints of the slope, where there is an external corner, is not recommended, as this will lead to accumulation of snow in the winter.
• Do not use rigid material to fasten the system. This is taken into account for those cases if the roof itself “floats” for any reason. If the system is fixed rigidly, the drainage system will suffer along with the roof.

Experienced builders advise installing a chimney system directly near the ridge. Why in this place and not in some other place:

• In the joint area of ​​​​the structure, the flow of moisture is excluded, because in this place during snowfalls the least amount of snow accumulates.
• The location of the pipe in the immediate vicinity of the roof ridge reduces the impact of external factors. By placing the structure near the ridge, favorable conditions are created for the least condensate collection in this place.

Increasing the distance from the ridge affects the height of the chimney structure itself, as it rises above the roof. If there is another building nearby that obscures the exit node, then this factor must also be taken into account, raising the height of the structure above the structure.

Features of the adjoining structure

Before you run the chimney through the roof, you need to prepare special elements, the manufacture of which requires different materials. Initially, the following points are taken into account:

• Specifications of the material used for mounting.
• What is the roof made of?
• Waterproofing the chimney on the roof, as well as the use of an apron as a mounting element.

In the design for the removal of combustion products, a material with different operating characteristics is used. It can be refractory bricks, metal, ceramic parts, even glass, which has undergone special pre-treatment. The main factor in the choice is the peculiarity of the operation of the chimney pipe with the calculation of the temperature of the combustion products. The junction may vary depending on the base from which the structure is made. When installing a chimney through the roof, the degree of protection of the roof from moisture with the help of waterproofing and insulation is taken into account. A feature of the installation is the use of additional layers of hydro- and vapor barrier, which should not have gaps and joints during installation.

According to the standards for safe operation of buildings, the distance between exhaust systems and combustible elements should not be less than 15 cm. This requirement requires the presence of a special pipe box that provides a buffer layer in the area where the chimney structure is adjacent. Experts recommend separating the junction area from the roof structure with a system of transverse beams and rafter legs. The way in which the protective film is made, taking into account the required distance, is performed with cutting by the envelope method and fixing the material with staples to the edges of the beam.

In the future, the waterproofing film is fixed with a crate, and the vapor barrier layer with a finish that will be used as fasteners.

Roofs from ondulin, output features

Before removing the pipe, it is necessary to study the technical features of the material from which the roof is made. Ondulin is included in the list of roofing material, which is used for the arrangement of low-rise buildings. The conclusion of the chimney through the roof of ondulin involves some features when performing installation work.

• When choosing a location, it is best to pass the pipe through the ondulin roof near the ridge. It is required before installation to provide the necessary height protrusion above the top of the ridge, with minimal impact of adverse factors. The same condition is optimal in preventing the accumulation of moisture and other elements in the construction area.
• The passage through the roof for the chimney is carried out at a distance from the location of the dormers.
• The passage of the pipe through the roof is not carried out at the joints of the slopes, as this will lead to the accumulation of snow at the junction.
• The fastening of the structure should not be rigid, in order to avoid violation of the smoke exhaust system in case of destruction of the roofing material.

It also takes into account the material from which it will be made. The passage of the chimney through the roof is carried out with the condition of using a roofing pie in the construction. Before installing a chimney through an ondulin roof, it is necessary to prepare an additional structure in the form of a box to ensure the fire safety of the entire building. The following additional steps need to be taken:

• Installation of rafter "legs" on both sides of the chimney pipe.
• With the help of transverse beams, the chimney pipe is fixed at the lower and upper points, taking into account the thickness of the rafter "legs".

In all other respects, the passage technology and the chimney device are carried out according to the standards that are used in the performance of such work.

Decking: output features

Many developers are interested in the question of how to correctly bring the chimney through the roof if it is made of corrugated board. Roofs from a professional flooring differ in ease, durability and reliability in operation. Many developers use it as the basis of the roof. When making a passage through a roof made of a profiled sheet, there are no fundamental differences in the design, the place in the roof and the material to be used are chosen in the same way.

Before running a chimney through a roof made of profiled sheets, it is necessary to gradually distribute all types of work, taking into account each structural element.

• The diameter, thickness and material from which it will be made are determined. The quality of traction depends on the height and evenness of the laying.
• Before making a hole in the roof, it is necessary to take into account not only the dimensions of the pipe, but also the fasteners with which the structure will be fixed.
• When connecting to the rafter system, it is necessary to take into account the presence of a protective box.
• In the presence of complex types of roofs using insulation, it is recommended to pass the chimney from sandwich pipes through the ceiling, attic space and roofing material. Using a chimney sandwich during installation, the entire structure in the assembly is carried out extremely simply and quickly.

The principle of output is in many ways reminiscent of the standard installation of structures:

• Using a ready-made chimney sandwich, you can not waste time for insulation. Installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe through the roof greatly simplifies the work.
• Using a passageway as a structural element, the best sealing of the joint is ensured, which excludes moisture from entering the attic space. As a through pipe, the most rational option is to use the material from which the pipe itself is made. There are ready-made elements on sale that completely solve the issue of sealing the joint and its elasticity, this is especially important if the roof has a corrugated surface.
• The node for the passage of the pipe through the roof has several varieties, its type is selected in accordance with the diameter and shape of the system.

Slate roof: system output

Slate has not been used as often lately as other, more modern and popular ones. Nevertheless, its relevance in construction remains high in demand. The output of the smoke hole in is carried out using a special circle to ensure the evenness of the edges. The most popular material for manufacturing on a slate roof are refractory bricks or ready-made ceramic pipes. Before fixing the chimney on the roof, a special apron is made of slate, most often galvanized or stainless steel is used as the basis.

Returning to the question of how to seal the joint with the roofing material, which is used as slate sheets, it would be appropriate to use a ready-made penetration, which ensures the maximum quality of sealing. In all other matters relating to the organization of installation work on the construction of a device on a slate roof, they differ little from the laying options with other types of roofs.

Metal tile: design output features

The passage of a chimney through a metal roof is in many ways reminiscent of the principle of working with a similar material, or rather corrugated board:

• The installation location, diameter and length are determined.
• On the surface of the roof, markings are made to cut a hole, taking into account a slight deviation (1.5 cm) in the direction of increase.
• To install a chimney system that goes to the roof through the attic rooms, boxes are used that are attached to the truss system. When cutting into the roof, the presence of waterproofing and insulation is also taken into account.
• When installing on roofs of complex type, it is better to use sandwich pipes, this will make it possible to assemble the structure from parts, which in turn saves time and facilitates the work.

Many novice masters are interested in why insulation is required and how to do it correctly. In construction, a material is used as insulation, which is characterized by high fire resistance. Mineral wool and fiberglass will not only provide the least heat loss, but also protect the home from fire. Work on the insulation of a multi-layer type of roof should be carried out in such a way that they do not interfere with the subsequent installation of the pipe itself.

Elements that are used for conclusions and sealing

Most often, chimneys are in the shape of a circle, which complicates the execution of holes in the roofing material, which can subsequently affect the tightness of the joints of the two systems: the roof and the chimney. In order to improve the quality of penetration with further fixing to the roof structure and compliance with the sealing quality required, builders use ready-made penetrations that differ in the form of manufacture and the method of creating elasticity at the joints. For convenience, there are several varieties of this element, which is also used when installing ventilation ducts.

A private house's own heating system usually requires the construction of a chimney. The passage of the chimney through the roof must be organized in accordance with current regulations in order to ensure the safe operation of the heating system and not impair the functionality of the roof structure.

The main difficulties of installing a chimney

The chimney is used to discharge the products of combustion of various types of fuel (gas, coal, firewood, oil products, etc.). Its laying through the roof of the house should be carried out in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003, which are partially outdated. However, this document is guided by the supervisory authorities, therefore, it is necessary to follow the standards specified in it.

A chimney outlet through the roof may be required in the following cases:

• when building a new house;
• in the process of reconstruction of the roofing system in the presence of a heating unit;
• when installing an autonomous source of heat supply in an already operated building.

If the construction of a building or the reconstruction of the roof allows you to design a chimney outlet taking into account all the requirements, then installing a chimney through a finished roof will create many problems. Usually this situation arises when the owners of the house want to install a fireplace or stove in an already finished building. If we are talking about an automatic boiler, it is recommended to create a separate extension for the boiler room, or to lead the chimney through the wall of the building.

The main difficulty in installing a chimney is that the roofing cake through which the pipe passes is largely composed of materials that are not designed for close contact with very hot objects. The composition of the roofing pie includes:

• roofing;
• crate;
• counterlattice;
• waterproofing;
• rafters;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier layer;
• inner lining.

Wood, bituminous and polymeric materials are sensitive to high temperatures, therefore, according to SNiP, the gap between the brick, concrete or ceramic chimney pipe in insulation and the elements of the roofing pie should be at least 130 mm. If the ceramic pipe is not provided with insulation, the clearance must be at least 250 mm. It should also be noted that at the point of passage through the roof, the pipe must have a special thickening - a retreat. Accordingly, in the roofing cake, it is required to make a hole of considerable size. The gap between the pipe and the roof after the installation of the flue must somehow be reliably thermally and waterproofed.

Negative consequences

A through hole in the roofing pie significantly reduces its performance and durability, because:

• violation of the integrity of the waterproofing and vapor barrier layers leads to wetting of the insulation, while the thermal insulation characteristics of cotton materials deteriorate significantly;
• due to the rupture of the thermal insulation layer, the heat losses of the house increase;
• in the under-roof space, air exchange may be disturbed, which provokes the accumulation of moisture and further decay of the wooden elements of the roof structure;
• the resulting gap not only contributes to the penetration of rainwater into the building, but also the formation of snow pockets in winter;
• if the truss system is broken in the process of making the hole, then this largely affects the strength of the roof.

To avoid problems, the passage of the chimney through the roof should be equipped by building its own truss system (box) around it or by installing a standard modular chimney.

Choosing a location for the chimney

When deciding how to run the chimney through the roof, it is important to correctly determine the location of its installation. It is not recommended to run chimneys in valleys, since it is very difficult to create reliable waterproofing in these places. In winter, snow actively accumulates here, which can cause damage to the junction of the flue to the roofing and leaks. In addition, the construction of a pipe truss box at the junction of the roof slopes is very difficult.

It is not necessary to remove the chimney in the immediate vicinity of the roof windows, as carbon monoxide or smoke can be carried by a gust of wind through an open window into a residential attic room.

The optimal location for the chimney is the area near the ridge. You can mount the chimney truss box with some indentation from the ridge, or the ridge beam is sawn, and special supports are installed under its ends.

The height of the chimney pipe above the roof depends on its location. The lower the pipe is installed along the roof slope, the more it should rise relative to the roof surface. SNiP "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning" contains information on the regulation of this parameter. For houses with a flat roof, the height of the chimney should be 500 mm. The parameters for pitched roofs vary: the height of the pipe installed within 1.5 meters from the ridge is 500 mm, if the chimney is installed at a distance of 1.5 - 3 meters from the ridge, then it should be flush with the ridge. For long distances, the height of the pipe is calculated as follows: its upper edge should be located 10 ° below the horizontal plane passing along the ridge.

According to SNiP, if a house with stove heating is attached (has a common wall) to a higher building, the chimney must be brought out of the roof of a tall building, regardless of its height and number of storeys.

When choosing a place for a chimney, it is recommended to take into account the angle of inclination of the roof slope and the climatic features of the region. A chimney located low on a slope can be destroyed when snow avalanches descend from the roof. If there is such a danger, it is advisable to mount separate snow retainers upstream of the chimney upstream of the chimney. In addition, the closer to the edge of the roof the chimney is located, the greater the likelihood of the formation of snow pockets behind it. Thus, installing the chimney closer to the ridge avoids a number of problems.

Chimney Features

For the manufacture of a chimney pipe can be used:

• metal pipe;
• asbestos-cement pipe;
• refractory brick.

For each type of pipe, a special system of passage through the roof is carried out, various types of waterproofing are used, which is due to the current building regulations. In addition, it is important to take into account the type of fuel used, as there is a difference in the combustion temperature of fuels of different types.

Before developing a project on how to bring the chimney through the roof, the homeowner should decide on the type of fuel used. In accordance with SNiP, it is forbidden to install a metal chimney for stoves that are fired with wood, peat, coal. In addition, the chimneys of such furnaces must be equipped with spark arresters made of metal mesh.

Experts recommend making rectangular or square chimneys - when installing them, you can use ready-made abutment clamps that protect the junction of the roof with the pipe. Planks can be selected according to the roofing material used.

Chimney box

To properly bring the chimney through the roofing pie, you should equip your own truss system around the pipe. It must be separated from the chimney at a distance specified in SNiP. The design consists of lateral rafter legs and horizontal transverse beams from below and above, which are made of a bar of the same section as the rafters.

To insulate the structure, it is necessary to use non-combustible heat-insulating materials, such as glass wool or stone wool - it is stuffed between the pipe and the wooden structural elements.

When passing the chimney through the roofing pie of the operated roof, the vapor and waterproofing is cut crosswise, like an envelope, the edges should be tucked up and attached with nails or brackets to the rafter system.

Waterproofing the chimney on the roof requires special attention. When installing a duct for a pitched roof chimney, the vapor barrier and waterproofing membrane are fastened as follows: the edges of the films are folded over and tightly fixed with staples to the duct, in addition, the attachment points should be additionally sealed with a sealing tape or some other adhesive material. From the outside, protective elements are mounted on top of the roofing that do not allow moisture to pass into the joints of the box with the roofing pie.

It is important to consider that the installation of the box can adversely affect the air exchange in the under-roof space. To avoid deterioration of moisture removal, additional ventilation systems can be installed, for example, ventilation tiles, roof aeration grilles, etc.

If the width of the chimney exceeds 800 mm (perpendicular to the rafters, according to the outer dimension), then a slope must be performed higher up the slope.

Razuklonka is a small private roof that drains water and snow from the pipe. Its installation is quite complicated, since all layers of insulation are part of the ramp, in addition, it should be qualitatively combined with the main roof using curly elements. To avoid mounting a slope, it is worth making a smaller pipe.

Using ready-made kits

Standard modular chimneys ("sandwich") can greatly simplify the process of passing the pipe through the roof. A wide range of materials are used for the manufacture of structures, including:

The choice of a modular chimney depends on the fuel used, as they differ significantly in their technical characteristics. The advantage of such systems is the ability to install the pipe at a non-right angle. This is especially true when installing a chimney in an existing building and allows you to choose almost any place for installing a fireplace, stove or automatic boiler.

A modular chimney passes directly through the roof, consisting of such parts as:

• deflector (a device that enhances draft in the chimney by using a stream of hot air);
• clamp for stretch marks (allows you to additionally fix a high pipe on the roof);
• skirt (an element that protects the exit point of the pipe through the roof);
• roof passage (element with a fixed apron, which is directly mounted in the roofing pie).

Modular chimneys have an attractive appearance.

Steel chimneys can be installed if the temperature of the exhaust gases is not more than 500 °C. Prohibited for installation on coal-fired stoves. For asbestos-cement pipes, this parameter is 300 degrees; for coal-fired ovens, such chimneys are also unsuitable.

If the chimney is made of concrete or brick, or a prefabricated passage is installed, the structure should not be rigidly attached to the roof system. Under the influence of external factors, the roof may be deformed, and these forces will be transferred to the chimney, which may lead to its destruction. When the chimney exits through the roof, all connections between the chimney and the roof are made using flexible elements.

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof is an important node in the arrangement of the roof. This area is the most fire hazardous in the entire chimney system. Its design is regulated by the special requirements of SNiP. Only the unconditional fulfillment of all safety requirements will allow you to sleep peacefully or take bath procedures without worrying about the condition of the stove. The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof can be done by hand, but with full compliance with all norms and requirements.

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof is the most fire hazardous in the entire chimney system.

Features of the roof passage

The chimney in any building has an increased fire hazard due to the fact that it heats up to very high temperatures and, in direct contact with combustible materials, can cause them to ignite. This is especially dangerous in the presence of wooden elements. Based on this, the construction of the chimney is regulated by the requirements of SNiP 41-03-01-2003. This document should be looked at when building a new house, overhauling the roof or heating system. Thus, the first requirement appears - the presence of a heat-resistant non-combustible barrier.

Tools for arranging the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof.

The second requirement is mutual temperature influence. The cold metal of the roof covering, in contact with the chimney, causes it to cool sharply, which renders the tall chimney useless and reduces draft. In turn, the heated chimney heats up the roofing material, causing its accelerated aging. To eliminate such mutual influence, it is necessary to have thermal insulation in the passage area.

Finally, when the pipe is passed through the roof, the integrity of the coating is violated, where moisture will certainly rush during precipitation or melting snow. To prevent leakage, the joint must be waterproofed.

The arrangement of the chimney passage must take into account the type of pipe and the type of roof. The chimney can be of two types - a rectangular or round pipe of different sizes. This determines the transition design. When designing, it is necessary to take into account the presence of an attic space, a wooden truss system and the type of roofing material. Passage through a metal tile or a covering from a professional flooring, differs from passage through a slate or other covering.

Choosing a place for a chimney

Figure 1. Scheme of different locations of the chimney along the roof slope.

How to properly make a chimney on the roof is schematically shown in Fig. 1. The recommended distances and heights for different pipe positions relative to the ridge are based on the following conditions: snow accumulation in winter, condensation, wind exposure. The height of the pipe increases as the exit point along the roof slope decreases. In addition, there are additional rules:

1. The pipe is not placed next to the roof window and on the edge of the junction of two slopes, as a wooden beam passes under it.
2. If a higher structure closely adjoins the building, then the chimney must be higher than its roof. (Fig. 1. Scheme of different locations of the chimney along the roof slope)

Required Tool

When arranging the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof with your own hands, you will need the following tool:

Figure 2. The passage of a rectangular chimney.

• Bulgarian;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw;
• scissors;
• chisel;
• plane;
• putty knife;
• paint brush;
• a hammer;
• mallet;
• metal ruler;
• construction level;
• roulette;
• furniture stapler.

Removing the chimney to the roof

The chimney through the roof is equipped with a roof cut with aprons made of metal (galvanized or stainless steel, copper or lead); and with the expectation of a different slope angle. The standard design of the adjacent element (groove) depends on the pipe material, pipe shape and roofing material. For rectangular pipes, ready-made parts can be purchased; and together with roofing material.

The place of passage of the pipe is also subject to heat, hydro and vapor barrier. All these layers must be separated by a non-combustible barrier from each other. To attach such a puff cake, a separate box is mounted around the chimney (Fig. 2) - rafters on the sides of the pipe and transverse beams attached to the rafters.

The connection of the vapor barrier and waterproofing film can be made by cutting them according to the “envelope” principle, while the edges are wound onto the crossbars and fixed with a stapler or nails.

Figure 3. Waterproofing the chimney passage.

Then the waterproofing is pressed by the elements of the crate, and the vapor barrier is closed with the facing material of the attic ceiling. The joints to increase the tightness are glued with adhesive tape or treated with an adhesive composition (Fig. 2. The passage of a rectangular chimney).

Additional waterproofing to protect and drain water flowing down the walls and slope is carried out for various chimneys using the same method. Figure 3 shows a diagram of the upper protective system. One edge of the waterproofing is glued to the roof, and the other to the surface of the pipe. The pipe part of the insulation is pressed against a standard metal profile, which is fixed with dowels. The upper end of the profile strip is treated with a sealant (Fig. 3. Waterproofing of the chimney passage).

Round chimney

In many buildings, most often in baths, round chimneys are widespread. Modern chimneys are produced using sandwich technology, that is, they have several layers, including insulation. The main task is to ensure the tightness of the passage through the roof. To conduct a chimney of this design is possible with standard ready-made metal penetrations, which are made of a steel sheet with a cap (apron) welded to it.

Figure 4. Passage through a metal roof.

The chimney pipe is guided through the apron, while the steel sheet is directed at an angle corresponding to the angle of the slope. A sealing "skirt" is put on over the penetration on the pipe. Additionally, you can use a heat-insulating gasket. The range of prefabricated penetrations also includes prefabricated penetrations based on rubber and silicone. The penetration should be chosen so that the inner diameter of the apron is smaller than the chimney pipe (by about 10-15%), which will allow it to be put on “in tightness”.

The penetration ring must be fully seated on the pipe until it fits snugly against the roof surface, for which you can lightly go around with a mallet. The edges of the greasy ring are processed with a sealing compound, and the sheet itself is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws in increments of 3.5-5 cm. Silicone passage parts and penetrations made of EPDM rubber have proven themselves to be the best; they have increased heat resistance and frost resistance, tolerate temperature extremes well. An important condition: the upper edge of the apron must be wound under the roofing, and the lower edge must overlap the roof.

Passage through hard roofing material

The arrangement of the passage of the chimney through a rigid corrugated roof covering - through a metal tile or a profiled sheet has its own specific features. Figure 4 shows a scheme for solving such a problem. To ensure reliable drainage of water, both flowing down the slope of the roof and rolling down the walls of the pipe, two types of aprons have to be used - lower and upper. The lower apron is installed on top of a dense draft roof, but a so-called tie is necessarily brought under it - a sheet of galvanized steel or roofing material that will ensure water drainage.

A hard roof covering (metal tile) is restored over the lower apron, and the profile elements of the upper apron (corner with bent edges) are attached on top. When laying it, one side is fixed on the tiles, and the other is attached to the chimney pipe. The upper edge of the apron is treated with a sealing compound (Fig. 4. Passage through the roof of a metal tile).

The passage of the chimney through the roof is a very important element of the arrangement of the roof. It must be carried out in full compliance with building and safety standards. In the manufacture of the passage, it is advisable to use standard ready-made passage elements that will provide the necessary reliability and safety.

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof with your own hands: how to do it right (video)

The passage of the chimney pipe through the roof is an important node in the arrangement of the roof. This area is the most fire hazardous in the entire chimney system. Its design is regulated by the special requirements of SNiP.

How to independently arrange the passage of a pipe through the roof in a private house or bath

In the process of building any house, there always comes a time when it is necessary to bring a chimney or ventilation pipes through the roof, there is no way without it. Some owners do not attach much importance to this process, however, mistakes made during the arrangement of the docking station can lead to serious negative consequences. In this article I will tell you how to independently bring pipes through the attic floor and different types of roofs.

Arrangement of the transition on the roof.

What can a bad installation lead to?

In most cases, stove makers and ventilation equipment specialists are engaged exclusively in the installation of their sector. Pipe passages through the wall, interfloor overlap and roof do not touch them. People do not want to hire a professional and take on the job themselves. As a result, after a short period of time, a whole bunch of problems can “emerge”.

When you hire a specialist, it is better to immediately specify the moment of arranging transitions through structures.

Sometimes it’s easier to pay a little more to an experienced person than to puzzle over how it’s all right and beautiful to do with your own hands.

Transition on a soft roof.

• The materials from which chimneys are made are quite hardy, they can easily withstand temperature changes, but these materials are often not designed for constant contact with moisture. For example, a brick or asbestos-cement pipe, having been saturated with moisture, will simply begin to crumble and after a couple of seasons it will look like it was eaten by mice;
• Again, due to high humidity, this sector from the inside will be intensively overgrown with soot. therefore, you will have to clean the chimney much more often;
• But this is not the worst. In most cases, the roof is now insulated with basalt or glass wool.. Once such a heater gets wet, it, firstly, becomes useless, and secondly, it sits down and is no longer restored. Drying cotton wool is pointless, it only needs to be changed;
• Do not forget that almost all roofs are made on the basis of a wooden frame.. Whatever you impregnate the wood with, but if the structures are constantly in a humid environment, then sooner or later they will begin to rot. Water sharpens a stone, what can we say about a tree;

Arrangement of a complex transition.

• There is one more moment I will explain it with an example. One of my acquaintances finished building a house in the fall and, since the weather had already begun to noticeably deteriorate, he patched up the passage through the roof of the chimney at random, in the hope that everything would be fixed in the spring.

Imagine his surprise when, on New Year's holidays, the chimney through the ceiling of which was decorated in a pompous and very expensive Baroque style, covered with red wet spots and the stucco molding began to fall off. And all this happened because the joint of the roof was not tight enough.

After the furnace was flooded, the snow around the pipe melted, water flowed through the pipe and completely spoiled the luxurious interior, the cost of which was ten times higher than the services of the most expensive roofer.

It's called whatever.

Where is the best place to run pipes?

Of course, when the house was built a long time ago and you are only repairing the roof, nothing can be changed. But at the design stage, you have the opportunity to choose the optimal location for the pipe outlet.

Any stove-maker will tell you that it is best to mount the pass-through node in the ridge. But this is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, snow or rain will never leak under the pipe, plus the chimney located above the ridge provides optimal traction. On the other hand, you will have to pretty tinker with the arrangement of the truss system, because breaking a horizontal ridge beam is a rather complicated matter.

Sandwich pipe on the roof.

The minimum distance from the chimney to the rafters or load-bearing beams according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003 should be 140 - 250 mm.

• It is usually recommended to slightly move the chimney to either side relative to the ridge. Moreover, if the pipe is located at a distance of up to one and a half meters from the ridge, then it should rise above it to a height of 50 cm;
• If the distance from the ridge to the passage node fluctuates around 1.5 - 3 m, then the height of the pipe can be made flush with the ridge;
• When the roof is shed or the distance from the ridge beam to the passage node is more than 3 m, it is allowed to install the top point of the pipe along a line passing at an angle of 10º relative to the horizon along the ridge. To make it easier for you to understand, below is a diagram.

Rules for the location of pipes on the roof.

The most undesirable place for installing chimney and ventilation pipes is their location in the "valley". For those who do not know, an enodic angle is called an internal corner, which is formed by connecting two roof slopes. This does not threaten ordinary classical structures, such an arrangement can be found on multi-level roofs with a complex configuration.

If you are faced with a case where your chimney pipe passage through the roof is in the "valley", then it is better to try to make an extra knee and move the pipe half a meter to the side.

For the so-called sandwich structures, from which most of the chimneys for boilers and bath stoves are now made, this will not be difficult. Otherwise, water will constantly attack your connecting node from three sides and sooner or later a leak will occur.

The device and scheme of docking sandwich chimneys.

Self-installation of passages through the roof or ceiling

If earlier the roofs were mostly covered with slate, now it is increasingly being replaced by metal tiles and other modern roofing materials. Plus, in addition to the passage through the roof, you also need to take care of the transitions through the ceiling.

Elastic transition block as the easiest way out

A good half of modern chimneys and almost all ventilation outlets are now made round. It is just under such designs that elastic adapters are produced.

Such an adapter is a multi-stage funnel with a square or round base. A heat-resistant, elastic polymer is used as the main material.

Each step on the funnel corresponds to one of the running diameters of the chimney. In order for the pipe to fit snugly, you only need to cut the adapter with scissors to the level you need.

Hermetic fixation of the soft polymer base (flange) to the roof itself is carried out with metal studs and bolts. Such a flange can take any shape, so it easily bends around the complex relief of roofing.

Algorithm for mounting an elastic adapter for pipes.

The price for such a product is quite acceptable, plus the installation instructions, in my opinion, are more than simple. As I said, first you need to cut the cone to the desired diameter. After that, it is necessary to lubricate the place where the adapter joins the pipe and the lower, contact part of the flange with a heat-resistant sealant. Then you just have to screw the flange with metal studs through the pre-drilled holes to the lower flange ring.

Bottom flange ring.

Insulated sandwich chimneys are distinguished by their mirror shine. If you do not like the elastic polymer adapter, then for such cases there are metal adapters made from the same stainless steel. They differ from the polymer counterpart in the large dimensions of the apron, a given angle of inclination of the roof and a well-defined chimney diameter.

The installation of such stainless steel adapters differs from the previous version only in that, in addition to a heat-resistant sealant, a metal clamp is additionally used for the hermetic connection of the adapter and the pipe.

Arrangement of a passage through a metal tile

I want to immediately note that it’s quite difficult to correctly make the passage of a pipe through a metal tile without experience, therefore, after studying the instructions and viewing the thematic photos and videos in this article, you should think carefully about whether you are capable of such a labor feat.

The connecting unit consists of an internal main and an external decorative apron. Experienced roofers usually make the inner apron from tin or thin aluminum sheet. We have already mentioned round pipes, so further we will talk about sealing the junction of the roof with square or rectangular brick pipes.

Location of structural elements.

The inner apron is installed directly on the crate even before laying the metal tile. The design consists of 4 parts, according to the number of pipe planes. Each of these parts should go under the metal tile layer by at least 250 - 300 mm. It enters the pipe by 150 - 250 mm, again from the metal tile layer.

Before installing the elements of the apron along the perimeter of the pipe at the same level, parallel to the roof, a grinder cuts a strobe with a depth of 10 - 15 mm. We will insert the upper cut of the apron into it.

Before inserting the elements of the apron into the strobe, it is cleaned, washed with water, dried and filled with a heat-resistant sealant. Only sealant should be filled right before installing the protective elements.

Internal apron after laying the roofing.

On the plates themselves, along the upper cut, the side is bent at 90º to the depth of the strobe. Personally, I made it easier, I immediately inserted the sheets into the strobe and, tapping with a hammer, bent them down parallel to the pipe.

We finish the installation of the apron by attaching it to the pipe with special heat-resistant dowels and soldering the joints between all four elements. But that's not all, from below on the roof substrate under the apron, the so-called tie is wound up and fastened. This is a sheet of the same tin or aluminum, the width of which must exceed the dimensions of the pipe by at least half a meter on each side.

Soft corrugated outer apron.

It should go down the substrate to the edge of the roof. The tie is a kind of insurance, if somewhere the decorative lining starts to leak, water will flow down the tie under the metal tile. As a result, the roofing cake will remain dry.

When the inner apron and tie are finally fixed to the pipe and roof sheathing, you can start laying the metal tile itself. At the end, a decorative apron is mounted. Each of the metal tile manufacturers produces its own additional elements and makes them to match the color of the roof.

Sealing strap on the outer apron.

Such aprons, as a rule, are corrugated aluminum or lead sheet, on the back of which a self-adhesive coating is applied. From above, such an apron is equipped with a decorative strip, which is fixed on the pipe with self-tapping screws. But before fixing, it is desirable to additionally lubricate the joint with a heat-resistant sealant.

The upper bar of the decorative apron is attached just above the border of the lower main apron, after fixing it, the apron itself is carefully tapped with a rubber mallet so that the corrugated sheet fits well and sticks to the complex surface of the metal tile.

The arrangement of transitions with soft modern roofing materials is carried out in approximately the same way, with the only difference being that they often do without installing a tie.

The main mistake of amateurs is that they often neglect the installation of the main lower apron and tie, the decorative upper apron holds, of course, well, but the thin, soft aluminum corrugation barrier is not very reliable and can be easily damaged, for example, by a branch that has fallen from a tree .

How to protect a wooden base from a hot chimney

As you remember, according to the standards of SNiP 41-03-01-2003, the minimum distance from the chimney to any wooden structures starts from 140 mm. Sandwich elements are considered the most “advanced” in this regard, but even there the insulation has a maximum thickness of only 100 mm.

We conclude that all chimneys must be protected when passing through wooden roof structures or wooden floors.

The passage of a pipe through the ceiling of the bath is the most striking illustration of this topic, since the baths in our great power are usually made of wood. It is also worth adding that the temperature in sauna stoves is often higher than in conventional ones.

It is believed that in order for dry wood to begin to char, it needs only 200ºС. And when the temperature reaches 300ºС, there is a real danger of self-ignition.

If we take into account that birch firewood gives temperatures up to 500ºС, and when using good coal or coke, the temperature can rise above 700ºС, then the extent of the danger becomes clear.

When arranging such transitions, you can go in two ways, buy a special transition block or do it yourself.

Now the industry produces a variety of ceiling passage units (PPU). In expensive designs of this kind, a special reinforced box is provided, which comes with insulation, filler and other fittings. But as far as I have come across, our man does not want to pay money for such amenities, and in this, I agree with him.

Insulation of the box with basalt wool.

The fact is that the design itself is not particularly complicated and here, as is often the case with us, it is cheaper to buy everything separately. First, I will tell you what the classic instruction looks like for such an arrangement, and then I will tell you how I made the pipe pass through the ceiling of the bath with my own hands:

• In almost any construction market, you can now find special metal boxes with a hole already cut out for a certain diameter of the chimney;
• In the horizontal plate of such a box, which is also part of the ceiling, mounting holes for self-tapping screws are made around the perimeter. But you can’t immediately mount the structure on a “bare” wooden ceiling. Its edges must first be overlaid with a non-combustible heat insulator. Most often, asbestos cloth is used for these purposes;
• The dimensions of the vertical walls of the box are selected in the same way so that an asbestos sheet can be fixed between them and the through hole;

Twin box made of metal and mineralite.

• From the inside, the vertical walls of the box are supposed to be lined with foil basalt wool 30 - 50 mm thick, of course it costs more than usual, but this is the instruction;
• Absolutely clearly, without the slightest gap, it is almost impossible to select holes in the box for the chimney, even if there is a small gap, but it will still be. Here it is supposed to be covered with heat-resistant sealant;
• Further, the space between the foiled basalt wool and the chimney is filled with expanded clay or the same wool, only soft and uncoated. This is enough for a non-residential attic floor, but if the bath is an attic type, and there is a rest room on the second floor, then the top box must be covered with a mineralite slab (a heat-resistant and safer analogue of asbestos) or the same stainless steel plate.

Making the passage through the attic.

Now, as I promised, I will tell you about my own experience in arranging such a transition. The bath was made a long time ago, and then these convenient devices simply did not exist. Sandwich designs at that time cost fabulous money, so an ownerless cast-iron pipe was installed as a chimney.

A square hole in the wooden ceiling was cut out so that there was at least 250 mm between the chimney and the wood in all directions. I immediately stuffed an asbestos sheet onto the vertical walls of the niche.

A three-millimeter sheet of stainless steel was hemmed from below. I wanted to hem a ten-millimeter asbestos-cement slab, but I was afraid that it would burst from the temperature, although my neighbor hemmed it and is still standing.

Homemade protection option.

I wrapped the pipe in the box with an asbestos sheet and caulked the gap with clay on top of it. And from above, all this economy was covered with expanded clay of medium diameter. On the second floor of the bath, I decided to make a rest room, but at that time I did not have a second similar stainless steel sheet.

Then I mixed a cement-lime mortar based on expanded clay sand and poured a thirty-millimeter screed reinforced with wire rod. Only the screed was not poured close to the cast-iron pipe, but through a gasket made of asbestos cloth, otherwise it would simply crack with temperature fluctuations.

As you can see, you can make a passage through the roof of the chimney with your own hands. But still, if you decide to invest in a quality coating of metal tiles or other similar materials, I recommend that you first carefully study the available methods.

Chimney passage through the roof

Folding the stove is not an easy task, but properly arranging the passage of the chimney through the roof is an equally important procedure. Fire safety, as well as waterproofing of the furnace and attic floor, depend on how correctly the work will be carried out.

Chimney passage through the roof

The consequences of a poorly done sealing of the chimney when it exits through the roof can be as follows:

• If the pipe is not protected from moisture, dampness will easily destroy the chimney masonry over time, penetrating into the seams and corroding the mortar, which can also lead to smoke in the attic, and in the worst case, to a fire.
• Moisture that has appeared in leaky sealed holes around the pipe, flowing down the masonry, penetrating inside the chimney, and can lead to the formation of fungus. We'll have to shift the pipe, and possibly even part of the furnace.
• Waterlogging of not only pipes, but also vapor barrier and insulation materials can lead to their rupture.
• As a result of the loss of tightness of thermal insulation, the heat loss of the building will increase.
• There may be a violation of air circulation in the attic, which will lead to a decrease in moisture exchange.
• The ingress of moisture into the cracks during temperature changes forms ice, which will expand the cracks, and destructive processes will become more active.
• Due to moisture, the entire roof structure can be broken - if it gets on the truss structure and starts to corrode it.

Dampness kills the chimney

Such a picture can occur in a pipe, with poorly sealed cracks around it. To avoid such a problem, the installation of the pipe outlet through the roof must be carried out carefully and competently.

Pipe exit through the roof

When starting this process, it is necessary to learn and comply with the established rules of SNiP 41 - 03 - 01 - 2003. Chimney installation work will be needed in the following cases:

• during the construction of the roof;
• when repairing a roof;
• when installing a heater or building a stove.

Optimum location of the chimney on the roof

Experienced stove-makers advise placing the outlet of the pipe closer to the highest point of the ridge roof, and it should rise above it by at least half a meter. This is convenient because less snow will accumulate in the area above the pipe, which reduces the risk of leakage when it melts.

If the pipe head is located below the roof slope, it must also be raised above the coating by at least half a meter.

It should be noted that the type of chimney and its finish is very important during this process, since there are several options for designing this node, which is important for the whole house. The removal of the head has different designs, and depends on the shape and material from which the chimney is made, the place of its exit and size. Chimney pipes can be made of metal, brick, asbestos cement or ceramics. For each type of pipe, the passage is arranged in a certain way.

The design of brick pipes output through the roof has its own type of installation. The plastered pipe head is sealed in a completely different way, and a ceramic or metal chimney has several methods for sealing the seams between it and the roof.

The material of the roof also plays an important role in the design of the seams around the chimney.

For different types of roofing materials, it is easy to find a special element that will help make the chimney waterproofing reliable. The main thing is to choose the right slope of this element. It is very important that the pipe be positioned in the roof opening so that the distance between it and the roof and the rafters is at least 5 - 7 cm. These gaps are filled with non-combustible insulating material, such as asbestos.

Elements for insulating round pipes

To bring out a round pipe, which can be made of metal or ceramic, you need to correctly make a hole in the roof. Around the hole, from inside the roof, it is recommended to fix a metal sheet or a specially made metal panel with a hole for the pipe. If necessary, you need to add additional bars to the crate for their fastening.

Metal apron around the chimney

The roof can have different slopes, and it will depend on which insulating element, called a roof penetration, to choose for waterproofing. In construction stores, there is a large selection of various auxiliary elements designed specifically for this procedure, of different shapes and diameters.

A pipe leading through a roof with a slope will accordingly require a special sinking slope. Also, we can say that her choice will depend on the material that covers the roof. This is taken into account in order to achieve the best sealing effect.

Silicone seals for flexible penetration

Roof penetration is a pyramid, consisting of several steps. The pyramid is located on a flexible square or round flange. The entire element is made of silicone or resistant types of rubber, although sometimes one of its parts can also be made of aluminum. Due to the elasticity of these materials, the penetration is well combined with any roof, and does not react to the effects of wind or snow.

The positive characteristics of such products include:

• resistance to chemical and ultraviolet influences;
• resistance to temperature difference, from - 50 to + 130 degrees;
• flexibility;
• wide range of colors - they can be matched to any color of the roof;
• aesthetics, the possibility of giving completeness to the coating;
• thanks to a good fit to the roof, the penetration guarantees excellent tightness;
• the flexibility of the part makes it possible to install it on any roof slope.

Since penetrations are produced in different sizes, they must be correctly selected according to the diameter of the chimney and the slope of the roof. Dimensions are indicated on the body of the element itself.

• Direct penetration is used mainly on roofs with a slight slope, about 25 degrees, and on flat roofs.
• Corner penetration, the flange of which must be fixed at a certain angle, for example, 20 degrees, is used to seal pipes installed on roofs with a slope of more than 25 degrees.
• Universal penetration, which can be adjusted to any pipe diameter, looks like this: on each of the steps of the penetration pyramid, the diameter for which it is intended is indicated. The master only has to cut off the extra top and mount it on the pipe.

Installation of this waterproofing element is quite simple:

The installation process is simple and straightforward

After waterproofing - fastened to the roof with self-tapping screws

• if a universal version is purchased, the excess part is cut off from it;
• then the penetration is put on the pipe and pressed against the roof. If the roof is ribbed, the waterproofing should take the form of the ribs of the coating;
• then a sealant is used, with which the edges of the flange are smeared and firmly pressed against the roof;
• the last step is fixing the penetration along the flange to the roof using self-tapping screws or rivets.

In the presented photos, the process of installing waterproofing is clearly visible.

Another option for waterproofing a metal pipe can be a metal penetration, which is also sold ready-made. It has excellent characteristics, but can only be installed on a roof that does not have a relief pattern, for example, soft. Another condition necessary for a tight installation of the flange to the roof is the ideal angle of the element to the roof slope.

• There are different models of metal penetrations. On some of them, the pipe is fixed and soldered from the inside, and the upper head of the chimney is put on and welded on the outside.

Metal flange for round pipe

• There may be another option, when the pipe passes through the penetration through and a detachable metal part is fixed on top of it, which does not allow moisture to penetrate inside.
• The flange is glued to the roof with a sealant, and then screwed with self-tapping screws.

Square, rectangular tube

A brick chimney is almost always square or rectangular in shape. Passing through the attic, it is brought to the roof. Further, a hole is made in the roof, which must be framed from the inside with a metal sheet with a hole made in the middle in the shape of a pipe. Through this window, the head is also displayed on the surface of the roof. This option is convenient when removing the chimney through a frequent crate in the roof, for example, when a soft roof is being arranged.

If the crate is installed at a certain distance (for example, a slate roof), it is good if the pipe passes between the rafters. But it also happens that the pipe rests against one of the beams supporting the roof, or they are too far from the walls of the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to arrange additional details of the rafter-beam system, which will allow you to fix the heat-resistant insulation and waterproofing around the chimney.

When a square pipe is drawn through the roof, the seams around it are sealed with non-combustible materials, and a penetration-casing made of metal cut in a special way is installed on top.

Collapsible apron for a brick chimney

The figure shows a four-piece apron, which is assembled in a simple way. Such a penetration is arranged under the roof covering, and the roofing material is laid on top of it. The cracks formed in the area where the metal adjoins the pipe and when connected to the roof are sealed with sealant.

If sealing is carried out on top of the roofing material, then it is made with a layer of soft waterproofing, consisting of a special tape, which is made on the basis of aluminum and lead. It is well fixed with a sealant on any flat surface or with a certain relief.

Rectangular pipe with finished penetration

On the pipe itself, soft waterproofing is also planted on the sealant, and fixed with special metal strips. The photo clearly shows the design of such protection.

Passing a pipe through a tile roof

Separately, I would like to say about the passage of the pipe through the tiled roof. Manufacturers have thought of a special element that repeats the relief pattern of the tiles, and has a hole arranged for the pipe. A pipe of the same material is also selected for it.

A convenient solution, but, alas, it will not work for a chimney

These elements of a tiled roof are made of highly resistant plastic. They are produced in the same colors as the tiles, and you can always choose the right shade suitable for a particular building. But such plastic roof parts are installed only for ventilation ducts, since they are unlikely to withstand the high temperatures that accompany the smoke emanating from any stove.

Security Criteria

It is impossible on the scale of one publication to cover all the options for running chimneys through the roof, and to tell about all the important tricks in these works. But, there are some things that you really need to know.

• In the construction of some roofs, there are layers of different materials that do not have pronounced fire-resistant properties. Therefore, it is very important to provide fire safety rules.

In order to protect wooden floors and other combustible materials, special boxes are built around the chimney of any shape.

The pipe is placed in a special refractory box

This option is very convenient for roofs covered with slate, tiles or other materials that have a three-dimensional pattern, as well as for soft roofs. The box is built flush with the crate, on which the roofing is laid. It must have a certain thickness in order to reliably protect the entire layer of the crate and the vapor barrier and insulation installed on it from possible overheating and fire. It is not bad if there is also a distance of about 5 - 7 cm between the chimney and fire-resistant materials.

• When purchasing a penetration, you must make sure that it is reliable and resistant to temperature changes and increased heat, and only then for waterproofing qualities.
• The correct installation of the pipe and its passage through the roof is very important, as it is not only a decorative element, but also a functional one. We must not forget that the safety of your health and property will depend on the correct installation of this unit.
• The materials used in such work must meet the necessary requirements for this particular device. It is not possible, for example, to use ventilation pipes for exhausting smoke from heating appliances. Be sure to know the characteristics of the purchased materials, and it is better to consult a specialist if something is in doubt.

In any case, if you have never dealt with such types of work, it is not worth the risk. The best option would be to invite a master who has performed this process more than once. It will quickly cope with the task and will not spoil the overall appearance of the roof.

Roof penetration for chimneys

One of the complex nodes in the arrangement of heating systems is the penetration of roofing for chimneys. The very process of passing the pipe through the rafter system and the roof is quite understandable, but the preparation of the opening and waterproofing work around the pipe walls require a careful approach.

Roof penetration for chimneys

Fire safety and protection of the under-roof space from moisture penetration, which can cause a lot of negative consequences, will depend on how reliably the penetration is carried out. The waterproofing of the joint between the chimney wall and the roofing can be carried out using various materials - elastic bands, metal aprons, or integrated approaches are used. Most often, masters practice precisely complex options, since in this case an extra precaution will never be superfluous.

Basic requirements of SNiP for the passage of the chimney through the roof

The basic requirements regarding the arrangement of heating systems in a private house can be found in SNiP 41-01-2003 "Ventilation, air conditioning and heating." Information on the rules for the construction of a stove and a chimney is available in the subsection "Stove heating" (6.6). Next, a small sample will be presented, relating specifically to the site of interest to us in this publication.

• Paragraph 6.6.14 says that the mouth (upper edge) of the chimneys must be protected from direct precipitation. Therefore, a deflector, an umbrella or other devices covering this hole from above are fixed on the head of the pipe, which, at the same time, should not create obstacles for the free exit of smoke.

Protective cap with mesh spark arrester

• Paragraph 6.6.15 - chimneys of solid fuel stoves (burning wood or peat), passing through roofs covered with combustible roofing material, must be equipped with spark arresters, with a metal mesh installed in them, having cells no more than 5 × 5 mm. (By the way, it is not recommended to set a grid that is too fine, less than 2 × 2 mm, as it will quickly become overgrown with soot).
• Paragraph 6.6.22 establishes the minimum distances between the outer surfaces of the walls of the chimney and the elements of the truss and roof systems made of combustible materials. They must be:

For pipes made of brick (minimum thickness 120 mm) or refractory concrete (minimum thickness 60 mm), the distance must be at least 130 mm.

For ceramic pipes without external thermal insulation - 250 mm;

For ceramic chimneys with external thermal insulation made of materials with a thermal resistance of at least 0.3 m × ° C / W - 130 mm.

The space left between the pipe and combustible roofing should be covered with non-combustible material. Naturally, waterproofing of this clearance should also be provided there.

The need for high-quality penetration through the roofing

Most of the problems that may arise during the installation and operation of pipe penetration through the roofing are due to the very design of the roofing "pie", which consists of several layers.

Approximate design of the roofing "pie" of the roof.

Some insulation used for roof insulation, especially those that are most attractively priced, are made from synthetic materials (polystyrene type), and wind and vapor barriers are always films made from polymers. Add here all the wooden details of the truss system - and here you have food for an open fire. (By the way, this is a very weighty argument to use exclusively non-combustible materials for roof insulation, such as basalt mineral wool). In addition, even some roofing materials are combustible.

Obviously, it is better to follow all the established rules in order to exclude the possibility of a fire hazard. Neglecting the requirements can result in the loss of housing, and it will be even better if there is no more serious, irrevocable tragedy.

Neglect of the rules for installing chimney systems may well lead to tragic consequences.

An important condition for the safety of the roof structure is high-quality waterproofing of the junction of the coating to the pipes.

• Improperly installed waterproofing materials around the chimney can leak, which will inevitably lead to wetting of the roofing "pie" insulation. The thermal insulation characteristics of a moisture-saturated insulation are sharply reduced, and it simply ceases to perform its function. In addition, this is a direct path to the appearance of centers of debate, rot, fungus in the thickness of insulating materials and on wooden roof structures. Even a small hole formed in the roof can nullify all efforts to insulate the under-roof space.
• With poorly sealed gaps in the area where the waterproofing adjoins the walls of the chimney, moisture will definitely get into them, and when temperatures drop, ice often forms there, which will make these gaps even wider. If the leak is not eliminated in time, then damage to the attic floor is possible over time - and so on.

So, a violation of technology, poor-quality waterproofing in one area can lead to a decrease in the strength of the entire truss system, so it is difficult to overestimate the competent installation of the pipe penetration unit.

To avoid such unpleasant consequences, you must take the following steps:

• Arrange, in accordance with all requirements, the penetration of the chimney through the rafter system and roofing material.
• Carry out waterproofing work, providing protection from the penetration of atmospheric moisture.

To figure out how to carry out these activities correctly, we will consider the whole process in stages. And since the chimney pipe can be metal or brick, the arrangement of their waterproofing still has a difference. Therefore, the implementation of both options will be presented below.

Features of the implementation of the penetration of the chimney through the roof

The sealing of the junction of the roof and the chimney can be done in various ways using materials that are most suitable for a particular roofing. However, it is necessary to take into account not only the type of coating, but also the shape of the chimney, the material from which it is made, as well as its location on the roof surface.

Chimney installation area

• It will be quite easy to waterproof the chimney that exits through the roof ridge, since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits installation completely eliminates the risk of accumulation of snow masses over its structure. Rainwater will also not linger around its walls. This means that moisture will not actively destroy the sealing of the junction and penetrate into the layers of the roofing "pie".

Chimney located directly on the roof ridge line

• Another option for installing a chimney that does not require particularly reinforced waterproofing is the area just below the ridge. In this design, it will be most convenient to equip a protective casing from the ridge, lowering it below the chimney by 700 ÷ 800 mm and making it wider than the base by 300 ÷ 400 mm on each side.

The chimney is located in the area adjacent to the roof ridge

Having sealed the joints around the perimeter of the pipe in this way, you can be sure that water will not get under the roofing material, even if a small amount of snow collects on top of the pipe on the surface of the slope.

The protruding part of the pipe shown in the illustration, which has a jagged masonry at the bottom, is called an “otter”. It is it that is intended for additional protection of the junction area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pipe and the roofing. The upper part of the metal “apron” located on the wall is carefully cut out under each of the teeth. So the junction of the metal and the brick wall will be under the protruding bricks of the "otter", that is, under a kind of visor.

Such an additional roof element will protect the upper side of the brick chimney from rain and melt water.

• Particular reliability of the waterproofing of the joints of the pipe walls and the roof is necessary for a chimney located in the middle or lower part of the roof slope. In this case, snow can accumulate above the chimney structure, the resulting melting of which water can penetrate under the roof at the junction. In addition, during heavy rain, streams of water will flow from the ridge, which will certainly find a weak point in poorly waterproofed joints to penetrate under the roofing material.

Therefore, quite often, protecting the chimney from melt and rainwater, roofers arrange an additional structure, shown in the illustration above. This element is fixed from the back of the chimney and has its own ridge, slopes, and forms two gutters at the joints with the main roof. This does not allow water flows to drain to the base of the pipe - they, bumping into its protruding corner, are separated, flowing down the formed gutters to the sides of the chimney walls.

With this arrangement of the chimney (right at the junction of two slopes), waterproofing will be the most difficult

• It is undesirable to allow a situation in which the chimney is located in the valley. The valley itself is a gutter, through which water flows from two adjacent slopes and from the roof ridge. If such a need arose, then you will have to work hard on the waterproofing layers. In this option, a groove will be simply necessary in order to organize the dilution of water flows from the base of the chimney pipe.

The method of waterproofing the penetration unit, depending on the roofing material

The second factor that directly affects the choice of pipe penetration waterproofing elements is the roofing material, so it is worth considering the most popular coatings today.

slate roof

Reliable waterproofing of the junction of the walls of the chimney and the slate roof is possible if the sheets of material are laid on a rigid structure of the crate, since the load from various external influences is evenly distributed on it.

It is very successful if the passing one is located between the rafter legs - it remains only to frame it with a bar at the right distance and fill this gap with non-combustible insulation

It is best if the chimney is led through the rafter system without violating the integrity of the crate, that is, into the opening between the rafters provided for and reinforced in advance along the perimeter with a bar. In any case, the rigidity of the roofing sheeting will make it possible to use a metal sheet, the so-called “tie”, for waterproofing the joints of the chimney, which can cover different-sized roof areas.

Metal "tie" going from the bottom wall of the pipe to the cornice overhang

In some cases, the sheet is laid on the crate under the roofing material from the ridge to the eaves. In other cases, from the back wall - the chimney to the cornice, and sometimes only around the pipe with entry to its walls, going down 500 ÷ 600 mm.

A special opening for the passage of the pipe, reinforced along the perimeter with a beam and made in compliance with the fire clearance provided for by SNiP.

However, the frequent installation step of the rafter legs often forces us to come up with special reinforced structures, approximately as shown in the illustration above.

This often happens in cases where the chimney penetration is formed in the finished roof. It is necessary to dismantle part of the crate, and possibly even cut out a fragment of the rafter leg. Therefore, so that the bearing capacity of the rafter system is not weakened, and the waterproofing of the pipe is reliable, an additional reinforced wooden frame is assembled around it, on which layers of the roofing “pie”, thermal insulation of the penetration, as well as waterproofing materials will be laid and fixed. At the same time, it should not be overlooked that the gaps between the walls of the chimney and the elements of the wooden frame must have dimensions determined by SNiP, which have already been mentioned.

The resulting space between these structures is filled with non-combustible material. Usually, basalt heat-resistant wool is chosen for this.

Most often, to close the junction, the so-called “apron” is used, made of metal with an anti-corrosion coating, which is fixed over the internal waterproofing of the roof and also helps to drain water from the joints. The height of the elements of the metal "apron" should be approximately 150 mm higher than the wave of the roofing. There are different designs of "aprons" specifically designed for specific roofing materials. They are sold in finished form and are a prefabricated structure. In addition, the "apron" can be made independently. But before taking on the production itself, it would be advisable to take measurements from the chimney and make a kind of paper or cardboard pattern. This will allow you to avoid mistakes (it will be easy to correct them on such a template), without damaging the material purchased for the manufacture of the “apron” parts.

tiled roof

It is convenient to waterproof the junctions to the walls of the chimney from cement-sand and ceramic tiles with special elastic self-adhesive tapes, which are made on a bitumen basis using additional layers of composite materials, sometimes with the addition of an aluminum foil layer.

In the process of waterproofing the joints of a square or rectangular brick pipe, the tape is mounted along the joints. At the same time, one half of it is glued to the roofing material, repeating its relief, and the second is fixed on the walls of the chimney. The upper part of the tape is fixed on the pipe with a special metal profile bar. The junction of the bar with the pipe and the places of its fastening must be treated with a heat- and moisture-resistant sealant.

Special waterproofing roofing tapes are very convenient in work.

The use of self-adhesive tapes for junctions can be called the easiest way to waterproof penetrations. They are easily cut with ordinary scissors and have excellent adhesion to roofing materials and pipe walls. Tapes are produced in a fairly wide range of sizes - their width can vary from 150 to 600 mm, so it is easy to choose the most suitable option for specific conditions for waterproofing.

The table below will step by step show the entire process of waterproofing the junction of the pipe around the perimeter - from cutting to mounting the tape on the surface.

The necessary dimensions are taken from it, which are transferred to a self-adhesive sheet.

It is necessary to take material with a margin of 50 ÷ 70 mm on each side - this allowance is necessary, since the tape will be wrapped on the side walls of the chimney.

All this can be done with ordinary large scissors.

The protective film is carefully removed from the tape, then the material is pressed against the wall and rolled with a roller.

Here it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the tape will be bent onto the back and front wall, so it is taken with a margin of 150 mm on the back side, and 40 ÷ 50 mm from the front.

The same is done with the protruding lower part of the tape.

Then, in the same way, the protruding part of the tape, laid horizontally, is cut off, that is, on the tiles.

This section of the tape should be 120 ÷ 150 mm more than the obtained parameter, they are also necessary for bending them onto the sides of the pipe.

Fixing the tape to the surfaces is carried out in the same way as when fixing the side panels.

The protruding parts of the tape are cut along the fold to the corner of the pipe and wrapped on the sides of the chimney, then pressed and rolled.

There should be a gap of about 10 mm between it and the wall.

Water, flowing down the slope of the roof, enters the formed gap, after which it separates and enters the side junctions, on which the waterproofing tape is fixed over the tiles, and then onto the roofing material laid below.

Its installation starts from the front side of the pipe.

The bar is applied to the front wall, and the desired length is marked on it. It should exceed the size of the side of the pipe by 100 mm, that is, by 50 mm on each side.

Depending on its relief, for its better adjoining to the wall, it can be slightly incised in the middle part.

The parts of the bar bent on the sides are also pressed against the walls of the pipe.

Here you need to take into account that their edges are cut at an angle, since they must match in the location of the front and rear strips.

The side profiles do not bend at the edges, their joints at the corners will be filled with sealant.

At the last stage, the fixing bar is fixed to the back wall of the pipe. It is measured and bent in the same way as the front profile, but its bent parts are superimposed on top of the side slats.

It is most convenient to work with a construction syringe.

In addition to self-adhesive tape, another method can be used to seal the junction of the tiles and the chimney, using a metal "apron". This work can also be done in different ways. One of the options for carrying out this process is presented in the instruction table below.

If a waterproofing material is laid under the crate that can withstand exposure to a large amount of moisture, for example, roofing material, then the sealing of the junctions can be carried out in the following order.

This “surplus” is necessary for bending it onto the front and back walls.

A wooden crate is mounted on top of the waterproofing, the timber of which will press the roofing material against the wall and hold it until the next steps.

The step of the crate depends on the type of tiles chosen for laying.

For this, an additional beam is fixed in the front and rear of the chimney.

It is glued along the inner edge of the waterproofing material, in this case roofing material, and pressed tightly against the wall of the chimney.

The upper line of its fastening should be 150 mm above the relief of the roofing material.

Having determined this level, using it, using an angle grinder (“grinder”) with an installed circle on the stone, a streak is cut out to fill the upper curved shelf of the metal “apron” strips into it.

The depth of the streak should be at least 15 mm, and the width should be 3 ÷ 5 mm.

Having reached the chimney, if necessary, the tiles are trimmed and fixed around the chimney at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from the wall surface.

Fixing the parts starts from the front side of the chimney.

The front bar of the "apron" is installed in the top shelf, bent at a right angle, then fixed to the wall of the chimney with dowels.

This picture shows the design of this element, which clearly shows that the upper edge of the bar has a fold (shelf) designed for installation in a groove cut out on the pipe wall.

The lower horizontal part of the bar also has a fold along the outer edge. It is necessary to keep the collected water within the junction bar so that it does not splash onto the adjacent roofing on the sides.

The front and side strips can be connected to each other in different ways, depending on the fastening provided. In this case, these elements of the "apron", which have bends at the ends, are interconnected by rolling.

Sometimes additional riveting of metal strips is also used.

Pay attention to the extended rim between the rear and side slats - from, as it were, it throws water flowing down from the ridge in the direction of the pipe to the “periphery” of the apron,

Naturally, its upper edge must also be sealed in a slotted streak - by analogy with other details of the apron.

Such a “bending” will reliably protect the pipe from the penetration of water flowing from the overlying section of the roof.

It should be noted that the methods of waterproofing described in the presented tables can also be used in combination with other relief roofing.

Soft tiles

Self-adhesive roofing tape is a good choice for sealing the joints of a chimney and a soft roof.

When laying this material on the roof, its connection to the chimney is arranged in the same way as when using other types of tiles. But, instead of a self-adhesive tape, a special cloth is also provided for soft blood, called a valley carpet, with the help of which various joints of this coating are sealed. Such carpets are produced in various color schemes, which, if necessary, gives the junction nodes a proper decorative effect.

Valley carpets are produced in various colors.

Sometimes, instead of this canvas, a cornice-ridge or ordinary flexible tile is used, the edges of which are led into the masonry during the construction of the chimney.

An example of a pattern for cutting out details for a waterproofing apron from a valley carpet is shown in the illustration. In this case, L is the length and H is the width of the pipe. A similar template can be fitted to a chimney having any perimeter.

An example of a pattern for preparing details of an apron from a flexible valley waterproofing sheet

Some roofers prefer to fit the material in place, much like self-adhesive roofing tape does.

Gluing parts of the apron cut from the valley carpet

If a valley carpet is chosen for waterproofing the junction, then it is glued to the chimney wall on bituminous mastic, and then additionally fixed along the upper edge with a metal bar screwed to the surface with dowels.

Additional fastening of the waterproofing apron with metal profile strips

The profile is equipped with a small bend passing along its lower edge. This small gutter will further assist in draining rainwater away from the surface of the pipe wall.

Roofing from metal tiles and corrugated board

The roof, covered with profiled metal sheets, at the junction with the walls of the chimney is sealed with a metal "apron", consisting of two layers - inner and outer. They are mounted in a certain sequence, similar to the processes of waterproofing adjoinings already described above in the article when using other roofing coverings.

Schematic diagram of the sealing of the junction of a pipe on a roof made of corrugated board or metal tiles

The process of arranging penetration in a similar way is carried out in the following sequence:

• A steel sheet with a thickness of 0.5 ÷ 1.0 mm is laid and fixed on the reinforced frame of the crate around the chimney, with sides 8 ÷ 10 mm high at the edges - flanging. A sheet called a "tie" must necessarily have an anti-corrosion coating. The sheet is laid up to the eaves of the roof, so that the water, flowing down it, falls immediately into the gutter.

The “tie” in its part descending to the cornice can not be made for the entire width of the chimney - a kind of “channel” is made by flanging, through which the infiltrated water will drain into the gutter

In some cases, for arranging a “tie”, a structure is used that does not consist of a single sheet, but of two metal strips, with flanging on both sides. They are placed on the sides of the chimney (or even on only one side, as in the first illustration in this section) and are also directed to the eaves into the gutter.

• Further, according to the markup, a cut is made to install the internal wall profile of the “apron”. The size of the recess must be at least 15 mm. The wall profile should have a side bent at an angle of approximately 30 degrees along the lower edge of the horizontal part. This design is provided to direct the flow of water and the impossibility of its exit beyond the profile.

• The next step is to clear the dust and fill it with a sealing compound.
• Further, wall profiles are installed on top of the “tie” in the groove around the entire perimeter of the pipe. They should fit snugly against the walls of the chimney. Joints of individual parts are sealed. Sometimes, with a well-cut reamer, such a design may also have one joint located on the front wall of the pipe, and in this case the connection overlaps by 120 ÷ 150 mm.
• Having completed the installation of the inner part of the "apron", roofing is laid on the slopes. The corrugated board is laid around the pipe on top of the horizontal shelves of the inner "apron" and the "tie" fixed on the crate.
• Then, on top of the roofing sheets, the outer part of the decorative and waterproofing parts is mounted. They are fixed according to the same principle as the internal parts of the "apron".

The outer bar of the apron - in fact, this is an ordinary metal tint

The upper edge of the outer strips can be fixed to the sealant without the use of a chisel, but it is still safer for them to also cut the chisel. This point will depend on the design features of the adjoining parts. All joints of individual elements must be treated with sealant.

It is necessary to give a note that instead of the inner metal part of the "apron", an elastic band, which has already been discussed above, can be used. Mounting such an elastic "apron" is still much easier.

Waterproofing round chimney and ventilation pipes

Since the waterproofing technologies described above apply only to square or rectangular chimneys, you should also remember about the ways to seal the gaps left near round pipes.

It should be noted right away that sandwich pipes are selected for round chimneys, which are more reliable in terms of fire safety. But, despite this quality, they are still additionally thermally insulated when passing through the attic floor and the roofing "pie" of the truss system.

Despite the layer of insulation in the design of the sandwich pipe, additional thermal insulation is still performed when it passes through the ceilings.

To insulate combustible materials around the chimneys, the same basalt mineral wool is used, laid at least 130 mm thick in the gap left.

Turnkey solution - conical roof passage assembly made of stainless steel

To seal round chimneys and ventilation pipes, it is easiest to use ready-made penetrations, which can be made of metal or heat-resistant elastic material.

The steel version of the penetration consists of two sections - this is the junction with the roof and the “apron”-cap, through which the chimney goes out into the street.

The penetration, made of an elastic material, consists of a cap and a metal (aluminum or lead) hoop, which can take the form of a roofing relief. This option is convenient because it does not need to be selected according to the angle of the pipe relative to the roof slope, since its “apron” is elastic and can be adjusted to the steepness of the roof.

In contrast, steel penetration will have to be selected depending on the slope of the roof slope, but it looks more durable and reliable. Elastic types of cutting are most often used for ventilation pipes. Their apron tightly fits the pipe and is additionally pressed against it with a clamp with a heat-resistant elastic gasket.

Elastic "master flash" for sealing pipe penetration through the roof

A penetration with an elastic "apron" can be used to seal pipes installed on roofs with a coating that has a sufficiently deep relief, such as metal tiles. The penetration, before fixing it on the roof, at the points of contact with the roofing material is covered with a sealant, which will eliminate the risk of water seeping under it.

The illustrated instructions for installing the "master flash" are so simple and clear that they probably do not need any explanation.

Fixing the "apron" to the roof surface is usually carried out using roofing screws, which are equipped with neoprene or rubber gaskets.

Similar nodes for sealing pipe penetration can be picked up in the store

Some flexible penetrations that have a flexible lead or aluminum ring for roof mounting already have an adhesive layer covered with a protective film that is removed before installation. This option is more effective, as it gives a high-quality adjoining penetration to the roofing.

By the way, elastic "aprons" - penetrations ("master flash") can be matched to any color of the roof, as they are produced in a wide range of shades.

In conclusion, it should be noted that it is necessary to know the technology of the process of waterproofing adjoining and thermal insulation of roofing parts from chimneys. But in the absence of practical experience in such work, in order to ensure fire safety at home, it is still recommended to entrust their implementation to specialists.

However, in some cases, you can use your own ingenuity, especially in situations where the use of ready-made solutions or special materials is impossible or inappropriate. Two such examples are placed in a separate section of the publication. Perhaps they look controversial - well, the author will only be happy to hear constructive criticism.

Sealing the junction of the roof to the pipe "folk methods"

A. Spied on the Internet

In this subsection, a video will simply be shown in which the master shows the old "grandfather" method of reliable and durable insulation (moreover, heat-resistant) of the gap between the metal pipe and the roofing. It does not pretend to be aesthetic, but for outbuildings it may well be used.

B. From personal experience - made by hand

The situation is the following. The boiler room was covered with slate, which for a long time (the house is already under 60 years old) fell into final disrepair - burst, crumbled. In a word, wet stains appeared on the ceiling in the boiler room. The ceiling is adobe, thick (almost 300 mm), supported by beams of logs. Below, in the boiler room, the surface of the ceiling is plastered and whitewashed. And on top of the barely peeking out beams, the very aged slate was laid (one wants to say - “thrown”, because there was no crate).

The solution is unequivocal - to change the roof. And so he did - he removed all the slate, built up the protruding parts of the beams with a beam (to also get an additional canopy), mounted the crate from the board and laid the roofing corrugated board.

It turned out something like this:

You can see the entrance to the boiler room with a visor, a new roof. In the background is a chimney.

From the same point, but a slightly different angle - the continuation of the roof of the boiler room to create a canopy for household needs

Well, now - the main thing: a view from the side of the garden, on which the location of the pipes is clearly visible. There are two of them - a chimney of a gas boiler (of a root type, with a good rectangular section of the channel, which made it possible to simultaneously connect a gas column to it). And nearby, as expected, a round asbestos-concrete ventilation pipe of the boiler room.

View of the roof of the boiler house from the side of the site - the relative position of the pipes is clearly visible.

And now - attention, let's bring the node of the passage of pipes through the roof a little closer.

And so noticeable is the picture that "drew" after the new roof was laid

Once upon a time, the owners didn’t bother much - they simply poured concrete mortar over the slate with a hump around both pipes (it can be seen that the pipes are located very close, with a clearance of only 70 mm). The solution, I must say, turned out to be very solid - after breaking out the old slate around the pipes, everything remained intact, and something like a visor was even preserved on the left side. It turned out well - under it it was possible to launch one wave of corrugated board.

But from those other sides, the situation is more complicated: between the concrete "hump" and the new flooring, a gap of about 10-15 mm turned out. On the front side - the cliff turned out to be almost sheer, on the right - a smoother level transition. And on the back side, this concrete outgrowth borders on the old gable tide (made of roofing iron), but a gap of about 5-8 mm appeared between them.

In a word, all four sides are different. And how to approach their waterproofing so that it is effective in all areas? I don’t want to fill up with concrete mortar - I don’t want to use thin corrugated board, and such “waterproofing” will not hold on it, and a gap will definitely appear between the old and new concrete layer. Obviously, some kind of elastic "skirt" is needed, going from the walls of the pipes to the roof, which could also play the role of "patches" in the areas of a smooth transition (to the right and behind the pipe).

The idea, to be honest, was prompted to me, it seemed good. In the course of work, it was also supplemented already independently.

The point is the following - to make a “skirt” from fiberglass, and then, for starters, impregnate it with liquid glass.

Prior to the start of work, it was planned to conduct a “photo report” literally step by step. However, reality made its own adjustments - where I simply forgot in the heat of activity, and where the operations were so “dirty” that I didn’t want to pick up a smartphone once again. I will try to explain with those pictures that were nevertheless filmed.

The skirt was fixed to the vertical sections of the chimney pipe (on the left and along the front) with metal strips, with entry into the slotted grooves. For these strips, an old aluminum cover from a washing machine was cut.

Starting materials: an old cover for cutting pressure plates and a piece of fiberglass.

A good piece of fiberglass has been in my stash since the "Soviet times". In the picture - these are already the remains, after cutting pieces of the "skirt".

In total, three pressure strips were used: two of them - on the vertical walls of the chimney, and one - on the descent from the "hump" from the side of the ventilation pipe. The strips were wrapped around the edge of the fiberglass and fixed in place with dowel-nails. The “hem of the skirt” on the sides covered one whole wave of corrugated board, and from the front, lay 200 mm on it. From the back, a piece of fabric was simply covered - it lay down both on the ebb and on the wall of the pipe. All fragments are laid with a very good overlap - 100÷150 millimeters. The canvas “fitted into place” very well, but so far it has only “rinsed” in the wind.

The next step is to impregnate the resulting "skirt" with liquid glass. Here it is, shown in the photo. The tool is an ordinary wide brush.

For a full cycle of work, such a bucket was not enough - I had to buy another one

From the very first time, liquid glass impregnated the fiberglass well, and it lay perfectly - with an exact repetition of the entire relief on both concrete and metal surfaces. All overlaps of fabric are securely glued together. After such a primary treatment, I corrected where necessary the folds on the already attached “skirt”, and left the whole thing to harden until tomorrow. The walls of the pipes also turned out to be primed with liquid glass above the "skirt" to a height of about 50 - 70 mm.

To be honest, I did not spare the silicate, so that even streaks ran between the waves of the corrugated board. This does not bother me - the side is not front, the slope is small: if you want, you won’t see it from the ground, and the corrugated board is not painted, but simply galvanized.

The next day began with a revision - what happened. And it turned out well - the "skirt" turned into a hard "crust" of the desired shape. But this, of course, is very little.

Therefore, the next step was as follows - with one hand, he again abundantly applied liquid glass with a brush, and with the second - covered this matter with dry cement, even rubbing it a little into the surface. Then - again a day to dry.

The third day is an exact repetition of the previous one. According to the already formed dense crust (it was practically not pressed through with the force of a finger), for greater reliability, another layer of liquid glass. (The first jar was no longer enough - I had to buy another one). And on top - again dry cement. It seizes very quickly with silicate glue, turning into “armor”, and fiberglass has already turned into just a reinforcing frame.

Further, there was a two-day exposure (not for technological reasons, but simply for personal reasons). Well, then, making sure that the resulting overlap turned into stone, I decided to generously coat all surfaces from above with a thick layer of rubber-bitumen mastic.

Here it is - this mastic, especially for waterproofing work

Mastic is very thick, so I had to dilute it a little with white spirit. Even after that, it was a little hard to apply, but I didn’t make it any thinner.

The picture after two treatments "liquid glass + cement" turned out something like this:

Armored crust - but at first it was just fiberglass.

The arrows show the already almost invisible clamping bars that once held the fiberglass. Now they, for sure, no longer play any role - a monolithic shell has turned out, covering this entire block of pipes from all sides. Including - and behind: there was no gap between the ebb and the completed sealing.

There was a gap between the gable tide and the old roof. Now it is completely closed with a slope for free flow of water onto the corrugated board

He began to apply mastic - and it was not there. The surface is dusty (he poured a lot of cement), there are not many hard small “pebbles”, and this causes the brush to clog, and the mastic itself rolls into lumps. That's not how things will work.

The beginning of applying rubber-bitumen mastic is not very successful so far

The way out is simple - liquid glass is still left, diluted it with some water about 1: 1, and moistened all surfaces very abundantly. Left to dry. The days were hot, and the next day everything was ready.

Now we have got a real “armor”, not dusty, almost glassy structure. The mastic laid down on it superbly - in a thick dense layer, filling all the bumps. Mastic also did not spare.

The last phase of work is the application of mastic in a uniform thick thick layer

There was an idea - to let the mastic dry, and then sprinkle it with dust from above (just from the ground). I didn’t have time - the wind that rose the next day did it for me on its own. A lot of dry cement remained on the roof between the waves (at one time it was just too lazy to sweep), and it covered the bitumen from above with a “noble patina”.

Two days later, I tested it - I poured this waterproofing assembly from a hose. Moreover, he experimented with both pressure and jet - he “modeled” from “light rain” (at first) to “rainstorm”. And in the end - I took a chance, tried a pressure jet in general - everything is holding up perfectly, there are no changes on the surface of this “armored cap”, and not the slightest sign of a leak in the boiler room!

Since then, a month has passed, during which a week of uninterrupted autumn rains has fallen. So far, the rating is "excellent". I am waiting for the winter, and I hope for a successful completion of the experiment ...

Probably, it may seem to many that all this has been done for a very long time. In terms of time, the whole process, yes, stretched out for 5 days, but in reality the work took 15-20 minutes every day (not counting, of course, the first day when the “skirt” was installed - it took an hour and a half). So no excessive effort and labor-intensive operations. And at the cost of materials - you can see for yourself, everything is from the category of completely accessible to everyone.

Roof penetration for chimneys - for different types of pipes and roofs

Roof penetration for chimneys is the most important unit that provides both fire safety and waterproofing. For different types of roofs - your approach

One of the most important tasks in the construction of a bath is the correct conclusion and sealing of the chimney pipe. Moreover, two problems need to be solved simultaneously: to ensure fire safety and insulation of the pipe joint from the flow of precipitation and condensate.

First of all, before solving the problem of water passage, it is necessary to determine the place where the pipe exits on the roof. The height of the pipe must comply with certain standards. The height depends on where the pipe will exit the pitched roof.

How much to raise the pipe above the ridge of the bath?

When installing the pipe, the rule applies: "The closer to the ridge, the higher the pipe must be raised."

Elevation of the chimney above the roof plane

• If the distance from the center of the chimney to the roof ridge does not exceed 1500 mm, the chimney must be raised above the ridge not less than 500 mm;
• With a distance from the center of the pipe to the ridge from 1500 to 3000 mm, the top of the pipe can be flush with the roof ridge;
• At a distance of more than 3 meters, the top of the pipe should not be lower than a line drawn down from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon.

Where is it better to draw a pipe through the roof of the bath

The most convenient way to bring the pipe through the roof is to pass it through the ridge. In this case, the installation is easiest to perform, there are rarely snow pockets on the ridge, moreover, thanks to this arrangement, it is easy to carry out insulation work. But this method has a drawback: the rafter system should not have a ridge beam. The option with two beams is also suitable, which are attached in the area of ​​​​the chimney passage through the roof, but this is quite difficult to implement, and besides, it is not always possible.

The most unfortunate option for the location of the chimney is in the valley (the valley is a roof element made in a kind of tray, forming an internal angle between the joints of the pitched roof elements). Large masses of snow usually accumulate here, during rain water flows down from two slopes, so even with the most thorough insulation, the appearance of a leak is only a matter of time.

The most convenient way to bring the pipe through the roof is not far from the ridge

Based on this, the most acceptable option for pitched roofs is not far from the ridge, but below it:

• easy enough to install
• snow usually accumulates a little, which means that there is no need to install snow retention,
• installation is not the most difficult,
• due to the not very high height of the pipe, it does not need to be strengthened with stretch marks.

If it turned out that the chimney passes near the floor beams, or close to them (the minimum distance should be 13-25 cm, depending on the type of pipe), exits in the valley or close to the slope, an additional elbow can become a way out of the situation, with which you can bring the pipe to the right place.

If the roof of the bath is shed, the most reasonable solution would be to organize a pipe outlet through the roof near the top of the roof.

How to bring a pipe through a roofing pie

The roofs of the baths are, as a rule, solid insulation, which solves the problem of keeping warm. To ensure good heat and moisture protection properties of the roofing cake, it is necessary that the membranes and films of heat and moisture protection be continuous.

Removing the pipe through the roof, we necessarily violate their integrity. Moreover, according to fire safety standards, the distance from the pipe to combustible materials (which are vapor barrier and waterproofing films) must be at least 13-25 cm. How to get out of the situation? The best option is to separate the area where the pipe passes through the roof. To do this, at the required distance from the pipe, additional rafter legs are fixed to the right and left, and transverse beams are installed from below and above at the same distance between these rafters. In this case, the pipe is in a separate box.

Roof access point

It often happens that "the pipe hits the rafters." In this case, the rafter leg is cut, additional rafter legs are installed, as well as transverse beams. Thus, a box is formed for the safe passage of the chimney through the roof.

The space between the pipe and the truss structure is filled with mineral wool. Only not with fiberglass - it does not tolerate high temperatures, but with basalt wool, which tolerates temperatures normally, and does not lose its heat-insulating properties when moisture enters.

At the same time, to ensure the tightness of the roofing pie within the box in which the pipe will be located, the materials are cut with an “envelope”, the edges are wrapped up to the beams and rafters, fixed with staples or nails (you can use counter-battens). To prevent the ingress of moisture, the places where the materials adhere to the wood must be additionally insulated with adhesive tapes or sealants.

The roofing cake at the passageway is cut with an “envelope” and fixed to the crate and rafters

But there is another option. If the temperature of the pipe in the area of ​​​​its passage through the roof does not exceed 50-60 ° C, you can simply glue the films of the roofing pie using all the same sealants and adhesive tapes. This is possible if, for example, a tank for heating water is installed on the pipe after leaving the furnace, or an additional heater, etc. is installed, and it is not a sandwich that goes to the roof.

In any case, to drain the condensate in the waterproofing layer, it will be necessary to attach a drainage groove. You can buy it (usually it is made of stainless steel), or you can make it yourself from a film of sufficient thickness. The groove is fixed around the pipe and its end is led out to the side. Thus, the condensate flows into this groove and is discharged onto the roof slope.

Passage through the roof depending on the roofing material and the type of chimney

When passing through the roof, the most important thing is to divert water flowing down the roof and the pipe itself. To protect against precipitation, protective aprons are used, the upper edge of which is led either under the sheet of roofing material located above, or under the ridge.

The apron is wound either under the sheet of roofing material located above or under the ridge

When leading the chimney through the roof, it must be fixed, but in such a way that it remains movable relative to the roof. Otherwise, due to thermal expansion / contraction, integrity will be violated and leaks will certainly appear. For example, a round pipe can be given direction with metal strips or corners.

When installing, check the verticality with a plumb line - this is important so that soot does not accumulate and there is good traction.

It is not necessary to fix the pipe when passing through the roof

The passage of a brick pipe through the roof

If the chimney is brick, rectangular or square, you can use the materials that come with the roofing material.

When passing a brick pipe through the roof, you can use the elements offered by the manufacturers of roofing material

If the roof is made of metal tiles, then the companies that produce it offer special tapes to seal the joint with the pipe, on one side of which an adhesive layer is applied. These elastic bands are a complex compound containing aluminum and/or lead. With one edge, such a tape is glued with an adhesive side to the base of the chimney, with the second - to the roofing crate. The upper edge is additionally fixed with a metal bar, which is attached to the brick with heat-resistant dowels.

To reduce the likelihood of water leaking along the wall, you can make a recess under the bar - a strobe. Then the tape and the bar will be in the recess. To completely eliminate water infiltration, a heat-resistant sealant is applied to the joint.

In practice, they also seal the passage of the pipe through the roof of soft tiles or roofing. But in this case, instead of an elastic band, the tile itself or roofing is brought to the chimney.

When a pipe passes through a roof covered with soft tiles, its edges are wound onto a chimney or apron

You can make an apron for a square or rectangular pipe yourself. Roofers usually use tin for this, but aluminum sheet is fine. Four separate parts are made of metal - two side, front and rear.

An apron for a rectangular or square pipe is easy to make yourself

Strips of metal are bent so that one part of it goes onto the pipe, and the second is attached to the crate. In a brick chimney, in the upper part of the apron, an edge is made, which is inserted into a special strobe and coated with sealant. So that water, flowing down the apron, does not fall on the crate and the insulation cake, a sheet of large-width metal is placed under the front of the apron, along the edges of which the sides are curved. It goes under the roofing material and is called a "tie".

If a metal tile is used on the roof, then an apron is made from a smooth sheet of the same color, the upper edge of which is tucked under the row of roofing material located above, so that water flows onto the apron, and does not flow under it. If the pipe comes out close to the ridge, you can either fill it under the ridge itself, or bend it to the other side.

There is one important nuance: if the width of the brick chimney is more than 80 cm (its size is perpendicular to the rafters), you need to make a slope - a small gable roof located above. It wicks away sediment, reducing the chance of leakage. But such a width of chimneys in a bath is more an exception than a rule.

The passage of a round pipe through the roof

Modern round chimneys in baths are usually a sandwich pipe. Occasionally, asbestos pipes can be seen on the roofs of the baths, even more rarely - a mono-pipe without thermal insulation.

A simple single-wall, which is removed through the roof, carries a very high probability of a fire. Therefore, it is highly undesirable to use this option.

Modern round pipes are usually sandwich pipes

The video below shows a pipe sealing option when installed on a metal roof.

If metal tiles are used as a roofing material, then often manufacturers also offer roof passages. They are made from a sheet of the same color and are connected to a special cap through which the pipe passes.

The passage of the pipe through the roof of the metal tile

It is easy and simple to seal a round pipe on the roof if you use a factory penetration. It is an aluminum flange to which an elastic part made of rubber or silicone is attached.

Prefabricated penetrations - the easiest option for sealing the junction of the pipe and the roof

They come in different sizes and have different angles of inclination. You can choose for any diameter, type of roof and installation location. The penetration flange is covered with a composition similar to the composition of the corrugated part, there are grooves along the edges into which they are filled with sealant. One of the penetrations - "Master Flash" has 11 sizes, which cover diameters from 3 to 660 millimeters.

Penetration "Master Flash" MASTER FLASH

When installing such a penetration, a part of the corrugation is cut off in accordance with the desired diameter. Then it is put on the pipe. Rubber should go with effort to ensure a snug fit. Since the hole is less than the diameter of the pipe by about 20%, you have to pull hard. To make less effort, you can lubricate both with soapy water.

How to install factory penetration

After the corrugation is stretched to the right place, the flange is given the required shape - the material is plastic and you can use a hammer, but you need to work carefully.

Using a hammer, the flange is given the required shape.

Then the grooves located from the inside are filled with sealant, the edges are pressed against the roofing material and fixed (self-tapping screws are included). If the roofing material is not made of iron, self-tapping screws are not suitable. It is necessary to use either long self-tapping screws that will reach the crate, or dowels for floor slabs.

Split model

There are quite a few options for factory-made penetrations, there are detachable models. They are used when there are thickenings on the pipe or when it is necessary to mount it on an already assembled chimney of great height. In this version, the kit includes clamps that connect the parts of the through passage to each other. The rest of the installation is similar.

The video shows how to seal a normal slate roof penetration with the MASTER FLASH corner penetration.

Roof sealants

In order to seal the joints of different parts of the passage of the bath pipe through the roof, it is necessary to use not just a roof sealant, but a heat-resistant sealant. Preferably a neutral silicone heat-resistant sealant.

If Master Flash is installed on a metal roof (metal tile or metal profile), then it is necessary to use a silicone sealant that does not contain vinegar (acetic-free sealant). This is necessary so that it does not enter into a chemical reaction with the metal and does not destroy it.

Roof silicone sealant maintains its properties in the range from -50°C to +300°C, which is sufficient for all weather conditions and is quite suitable for sealing the chimney pipe.

Roof sealant must be neutral and heat resistant

But you need to remember that the surface to be treated must be clean and dry. The full curing time is indicated on the packaging, usually 24 hours.

Fire safety precautions when using MASTER FLASH

MASTER FLASH made of silicone can withstand temperatures up to +300 degrees Celsius. This is quite enough to seal the sandwich pipe and, in many cases, the chimney from the asbestos-cement pipe.

The passage through the metal tile is sealed with Master Flash. Additionally used bitumen tape

As for the metal mono-pipe, in these cases it is possible to use MASTER FLASH in cases where the length of the chimney from the stove to the place of passage through the roof is at least 3 meters. As a rule, in this scenario, the temperatures will not be critical, but if not, then thermal insulation of the section that passes through the roofing pie is necessary.

Folding the stove is not an easy task, but when it comes to arranging the correct passage of the chimney pipe through the roof, it is no less important procedure.

Chimney passage through a tiled roof

Fire safety, as well as waterproofing of the furnace and attic floor, depend on how correctly the work will be carried out. An improperly installed exhaust system for gases that are released during the combustion process can cause fire! These gases are also hazardous to health and life of a person, their accumulation under the roof of residential premises creates a dangerous layer, which, reaching a critical mass, can cause irreparable damage to human health and even death!

The consequences of a poorly done sealing of the chimney when it exits through the roof can be as follows:

• If the pipe is not protected from moisture, dampness will easily destroy the chimney masonry over time, penetrating into the seams and corroding the mortar, which can also lead to smoke in the attic, and in the worst case, to a fire.
• Moisture that has appeared in leaky sealed holes around the pipe, flowing down the masonry, penetrating inside the chimney, and can lead to the formation of fungus. We'll have to shift the pipe, and possibly even part of the furnace.
• Waterlogging of not only pipes, but also vapor barrier and insulation materials can lead to their rupture.
• As a result of the loss of tightness of thermal insulation, the heat loss of the building will increase.
• There may be a violation of air circulation in the attic, which will lead to a decrease in moisture exchange.
• The ingress of moisture into the cracks during temperature changes forms ice, which will expand the cracks, and destructive processes will become more active.
• Due to moisture, the entire roof structure can be broken - if it gets on the truss structure and starts to corrode it.

Such a picture can occur in a pipe, with poorly sealed cracks around it. To avoid such a problem, the installation of the pipe outlet through the roof must be carried out carefully and competently.

Starting this process, you need to learn and follow the established rules SNiP 41 - 03 - 01 - 2003. Chimney installation work will be required in the following cases:

• during the construction of the roof;
• when repairing a roof;
• when installing a heater or building a stove.

The optimal location of the chimney on the roof is 1.5m from the ridge

Experienced stove-makers advise placing the outlet of the pipe closer to the highest point of the ridge roof, and it should rise above it by at least half a meter. This is convenient because less snow will accumulate in the area above the pipe, which reduces the risk of leakage when it melts.

If the pipe head is located below the roof slope, it must also be raised above the coating by at least half a meter.

It should be noted that the type of chimney and its finish is very important during this process, since there are several options for designing this node, which is important for the whole house. The removal of the head has different designs, and depends on the shape and material from which the chimney is made, the place of its exit and size. Chimney pipes can be made of metal, brick, asbestos cement or ceramics. For each type of pipe, the passage is arranged in a certain way.

The design of brick pipes output through the roof has its own type of installation. The plastered pipe head is sealed in a completely different way, and a ceramic or metal chimney has several methods for sealing the seams between it and the roof.

The material of the roof also plays an important role in the design of the seams around the chimney.

For different types of roofing materials, it is easy to find a special element that will help make the chimney waterproofing more reliable. The main thing is to choose the right slope of this element. It is very important that the pipe be positioned in the opening of the roof so that the distance between it and the roof, as well as the rafters, is at least 5-7 cm. These gaps are filled with non-combustible insulating material, such as asbestos.

Elements for insulating round pipes

To bring out a round pipe, which can be made of metal or ceramic, you need to correctly make a hole in the roof. Around the hole, from inside the roof, it is recommended to fix a metal sheet or a specially made metal panel with a hole for the pipe. If necessary, you need to add additional bars to the crate for their fastening.

The roof can have different slopes, and from them it will depend which insulating element, called a roof penetration, should be chosen for waterproofing. In construction stores, there is a large selection of various auxiliary elements designed specifically for this procedure, of different shapes and diameters.

Elastic roof penetration

A pipe leading through a roof with a slope will accordingly require a special sinking slope. Also, we can say that her choice will depend on the material with which the roof is covered. This is taken into account in order to achieve the best sealing effect.

Roof penetration is a pyramid, consisting of several steps. The pyramid is located on a flexible square or round flange. The entire element is made of silicone or resistant types of rubber, although sometimes one of its parts can also be made of aluminum. Due to the elasticity of these materials, the penetration is well combined with any roof, and does not react to the effects of wind or snow.

The positive characteristics of such products include:

• resistance to chemical and ultraviolet influences;
• resistance to temperature difference, from - 50 to + 130 degrees;
• flexibility;
• wide range of colors - they can be matched to any color of the roof;
• aesthetics, the possibility of giving completeness to the coating;
• thanks to a good fit to the roof, the penetration guarantees excellent tightness;
• the flexibility of the part makes it possible to install it on any roof slope.

Since penetrations are produced in different sizes, they must be correctly selected according to the diameter of the chimney and the slope of the roof. Dimensions are indicated on the body of the element itself.

• Direct penetration is used mainly on roofs with a slight slope, about 25 degrees, and on flat roofs.
• Corner penetration, the flange of which must be fixed at a certain angle, for example, 20 degrees, is used to seal pipes installed on roofs with a slope of more than 25 degrees.
• Universal penetration, which can be adjusted to any pipe diameter, looks like this: on each of the steps of the penetration pyramid, the diameter for which it is intended is indicated. The master only has to cut off the extra top and mount it on the pipe.

Installation of a soft roof penetration for a chimney pipe

Installation of this waterproofing element is quite simple:

The installation process is simple and straightforward

After waterproofing - fastened to the roof with self-tapping screws

• if a universal version is purchased, the excess part is cut off from it;
• then the penetration is put on the pipe and pressed against the roof. If the roof is ribbed, the waterproofing should take the form of the ribs of the coating;
• then a sealant is used, with which the edges of the flange are smeared and firmly pressed against the roof;
• the last step is fixing the penetration along the flange to the roof using self-tapping screws or rivets.

In the presented photos, the process of installing waterproofing is clearly visible.

Metal penetration

Another option for waterproofing a metal pipe can be a metal penetration, which is also sold ready-made. It has excellent characteristics, but can only be installed on a roof that does not have a relief pattern, for example, soft. Another condition necessary for a tight installation of the flange to the roof is the ideal angle of the element to the roof slope.

• There are different models of metal penetrations. On some of them, the pipe is fixed and soldered from the inside, and the upper head of the chimney is put on and welded on the outside.

• There may be another option, when the pipe passes through the penetration through and a detachable metal part is fixed on top of it, which does not allow moisture to penetrate inside.
• The flange is glued to the roof with a sealant, and then screwed with self-tapping screws.

Square, rectangular tube

A brick chimney is almost always square or rectangular in shape. Passing through the attic, it is brought to the roof. Further, a hole is made in the roof, which must be framed from the inside with a metal sheet with a hole made in the middle in the shape of a pipe. Through this window, the head is also displayed on the surface of the roof. This option is convenient when removing the chimney through a frequent crate in the roof, for example, when a soft roof is being arranged.

If the crate is installed at a certain distance (for example, a slate roof), it is good if the pipe passes between the rafters. But it also happens that the pipe rests against one of the beams supporting the roof, or they are too far from the walls of the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to arrange additional details of the rafter-beam system, which will allow you to fix the heat-resistant insulation and waterproofing around the chimney.

When a square pipe is drawn through the roof, the seams around it are sealed with non-combustible materials, and a penetration-casing made of metal cut in a special way is installed on top.

The figure shows a four-piece apron, which is assembled in a simple way. Such a penetration is arranged under the roof covering, and the roofing material is laid on top of it. The cracks formed in the area where the metal adjoins the pipe and when connected to the roof are sealed with sealant.

If sealing is carried out on top of the roofing material, then it is made with a layer of soft waterproofing, consisting of a special tape, which is made on the basis of aluminum and lead. It is well fixed with a sealant on any flat surface or with a certain relief.

On the pipe itself, soft waterproofing is also planted on the sealant, and fixed with special metal strips. The photo clearly shows the design of such protection.

One of the options for the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof - video tutorial

Passage of a chimney pipe through a tiled roof

Separately, I would like to say about the passage of the pipe through the tiled roof. Manufacturers have thought of a special element that repeats the relief pattern of the tiles, and has a hole arranged for the pipe. A pipe of the same material is also selected for it.

These elements of a tiled roof are made of highly resistant plastics. They are produced in the same colors as the tiles, and you can always choose the right shade suitable for a particular building. But such plastic roof parts are installed only for ventilation ducts, since they are unlikely to withstand the high temperatures that accompany the smoke emanating from any stove.

Safety criteria for the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof

It is impossible on the scale of one publication to cover all the options for running chimneys through the roof, and to tell about all the important tricks in these works. But, there are some things that you really need to know.

• In the construction of some roofs, there are layers of different materials that do not have pronounced fire-resistant properties. Therefore, it is very important to provide fire safety rules.

In order to protect wooden floors and other combustible materials, special boxes are built around the chimney of any shape.

The pipe is placed in a special refractory box

This option is very convenient for roofs covered with slate, tiles or other materials that have a three-dimensional pattern, as well as for soft roofs. The box is lined up with the crate, on which the roofing is laid. It must have a certain thickness in order to reliably protect the entire layer of the crate and the vapor barrier and insulation installed on it from possible overheating and fire. Not bad if there is also a distance of about 5-7 cm between the chimney and fire-resistant materials.

• When purchasing a penetration, you must make sure that it is reliable and resistant to temperature changes and increased heat, and only then for waterproofing qualities.
• The correct installation of the pipe and its passage through the roof is very important, as it is not only a decorative element, but also a functional one. We must not forget that the safety of your health and property will depend on the correct installation of this unit.
• The materials used in such work must meet the necessary requirements for this particular device. It is not possible, for example, to use ventilation pipes for exhausting smoke from heating appliances. Be sure to know the characteristics of the purchased materials, and it is better to consult a specialist if something is in doubt.

In any case, if you have never dealt with such types of work, it is not worth the risk. The best option would be to invite a master who has performed this process more than once. It will quickly cope with the task and will not spoil the overall appearance of the roof.