Connect 4 carob chandelier. How to connect a chandelier to a double switch correctly. Wire Connection Rules

The chandelier not only complements the overall design of the room, but also serves as a source of light in the dark. However, the maximum possible level of illumination is not used so often, is it? For the most part, there is a need to use the economy mode, when only a part of the lamps are functioning.

For this purpose, the chandelier is connected to a double switch, which allows you to adjust the intensity of lighting in the room. Do you want to install the switching device yourself, but do not know how to do it correctly?

We will help you deal with all the nuances of this process - the article provides diagrams for connecting the device to a switch with two keys, and discusses the main mistakes that beginners make. The correct connection of the wires will allow you to control, providing comfortable lighting.

The material of the article is provided with photographs, diagrams and recommendations in video format on how to correctly connect the chandelier on your own. Having studied the basic rules and installation schemes, you can get to work.

Work with electrical wiring must be carried out in compliance with safety regulations and with a clear sequence of actions.

First of all, the rules relate to de-energizing the wiring in the process of fitting and, mounting the working mechanism of the switch, connecting conductors to the terminals and other actions.

The main aspect that you should focus on when doing home electrical work is contact with bare wires. All actions in this case must be performed after turning off the general switch and using special tools

However, to determine the desired wire, the presence of power is still needed, therefore, in the work it is necessary to be as careful as possible and perform all actions only with special tools with high-quality insulation of the handles.

The only negative of the Vago terminal blocks is that they are not treated with quartz paste, which protects the contacts from oxidation. However, this problem can be solved by acquiring such a composition and self-syringing it into a clamp

As a result, 3 connection nodes are obtained at the output: the phase of the first and second groups of lamps is L1 and L2, the common neutral node is N. Given the marking of the wires, they must be connected to the corresponding lines on the ceiling.

There are two phase conductors coming out of the lamp (L1, L2), and there will be only one neutral wire (N) and it is connected to the second contact of the cartridge

At the finishing stage, it is necessary to lay all the wiring in the block of the chandelier bowl and install it. Fastening is carried out in one of the ways: hung on a hook or screwed with screws. Next, the decorative plugs of the lamp are tightened.

Using the ground wire

When arranging electrical communications in new homes in accordance with generally accepted standards, a ground wire will be present in the wiring.

In such rooms, when installing a chandelier, you can find that 4 wires come out of the ceiling: two phases from the switch, zero and ground.

The marking of the ground wire is carried out by a combination of yellow with a green stripe. In a single-phase network, it will be the third residential, in a three-phase network - the fifth

In most models of chandeliers with two groups of lamps and metal parts, a terminal block is provided in the package, through which the ground connection is made.

During the installation of the lighting device, you need to pay attention to this and connect the wire.

Connecting a halogen lamp

Chandeliers do not always work on 220 V AC - these can be products designed for AC voltage of 6, 12 or 24 V. Therefore, in the second case, you will need a step-down transformer.

Sometimes the manufacturer in each model of a halogen lighting fixture builds in special transformers to lower the current.

The diagram shows the principle of connecting a chandelier with an electronic transformer. In this variation of the lamp there is a controller unit. The connection plan is shown on the back of its case. In the diagram: PE - ground, N - zero, L - phase

Chandeliers, which include a remote control, can be of various modifications: with halogen, LED or incandescent lamps.

There are models and combined type. Such a device is complicated by the presence of a radio control unit. In fact, this controller is a wireless device, which is controlled by a remote control or a standard key switch.

The connection of such a lighting device is carried out similarly to the previous model, however, one more wire will be added here, the thinnest of all.

This is the antenna through which the communicating actions of the console and controller are reproduced. It remains unchanged inside the glass of the chandelier.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The whole process of preparing the chandelier for connection and directly connecting the double switch to the power supply is described in the video:

Inexperienced craftsmen quite often make mistakes in the wiring process, which ones and how to avoid them, see the video:

If you correctly reproduce all the stages of installation and follow the diagram, you can protect yourself from unpleasant consequences during the direct operation of the lighting device. Moreover, it will be possible to create a unique light atmosphere in the room, adjusting it to your needs.

Share with readers your experience of connecting a chandelier to a double switch. Please leave comments on the article, ask your questions and participate in discussions. The feedback form is located below.

After reading the title of the article, surely someone will definitely say - “why about e so-and-so write, with such work any landlord himself will be able to cope. Yes, of course, the installation and connection of a chandelier does not belong to the work of the highest category of complexity, however, these processes also have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in an apartment depends.

The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if they are incorrect installation become source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting fixture is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems related to how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two directions - ensuring its correct connection to the mains and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.

Find out useful information from our new article.

What to consider when choosing a chandelier

It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting fixture, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, at the same time, one should not forget about some other aspects of the choice.

• The total luminous power of the chandelier should correspond to the size and type of the room for which it is intended. There are certain illumination standards, which can be summarized as follows:

— For rooms where soft, diffused, subdued light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), one should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W / m² of area.

— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bathroom, bathroom) or where it is planned to install additional lighting for specific workplaces (study or nursery) the norm will be from 15 to 20 W / m².

- For rooms with bright illumination (living room), this indicator is taken equal to 20 W / m².

In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting fixture with the required number of horns should be selected. An important nuance - in no case should you raise the overall illuminationusing more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. The material of the ceiling lamps, cartridges, the cross section of the internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even to a fire hazard.

• The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with the overall dimensions of the room. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in a fairly cramped room, or, conversely, too small will simply get lost on the plane of the ceiling of a vast hall. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:

- The optimal diameter of the chandelier can be approximately determined by the formula:

D = ( L+ S)×10

D- chandelier diameter in centimeters

L and S- the length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.

So, for example, for a room measuring 5 × 3 m, the best option would be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.

• The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference to the ceiling version of the lighting fixture, so that there is at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m from the floor to it. The suspended option will be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
• Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
• Chandeliers are most often sold unassembled, so special attention is paid to completeness, matching of threads on all collapsible parts, and the integrity of decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and understandable installation instructions for the product.
• Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality goods and outright fakes for well-known brands. On such products, cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures, can be installed. They will issue a counterfeit poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisting of wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently carry out wire switching, their desoldering and insulation in accordance with all the rules. In particular, this applies to "fancy" chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, remote control devices, etc. In order not to take on these extra chores, it is better to choose a product with a really high-quality cable and electrical "stuffing", demand assembly and testing of the product in the store.

Prices for chandeliers and ceiling lights

Chandeliers and ceiling lights

We deal with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling

In this article, we will not consider particularly complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.

First of all, a few theoretical questions from the field of home wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is organized with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out on two wires - phase and zero. If a ground loop is provided in the house (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and, most often, this issue is foreseen in new buildings), then a third wire connected to the ground bus is included in the wiring.

There is a generally accepted color marking of wires of a single-phase electrical network:

A characteristic nuance - if the neutral wire always has a blue or blue color, and the ground contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire may vary:

Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting fixtures, to switch between different modes of their operation:

Ideally, both the chandelier and the house wiring should use this color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single-color insulation were used for wiring. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.

Particular attention should be paid to safety measures when working with electrical wiring. It is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires with bare hands, unless the general power supply is turned off. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work under the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable foundation - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes, the best option would be a stepladder mounted on a rubber mat.

1. So, the easiest option is a cable with two wires coming out of the hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. According to existing rules, zero should go directly to the junction box, and phase should be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “did not bother” with these issues.

• To check, you must have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often, it is made in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent case, although modern models may have other designs, including even an indication of the phase voltage value.
• First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment on the switchboard. This is necessary in order to thoroughly clean the wires from insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are bred to the sides as much as possible to prevent their short circuit. After that, turn on the machine on the shield.
• Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked in sequence. None should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, then the wiring in the house is not done correctly - on the switch, apparently, “zero” is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - it should just be borne in mind, exercising special care in further work.

• The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored tape).

2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then from the ceiling holes should be like the appropriate amount phase wires. The check is carried out in the same way as described above, with the marking of each phase separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.

A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - just to eliminate the errors of the electrician who once installed it.

3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.

• The easiest way is when the chandelier is one- or two-three-horn, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - zero and phase. If there is a ground wire, then it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.

• In the case when it is necessary to divide the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue "zero" wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.

Very often, this can be seen quite clearly on chandeliers, and such switching will not be difficult.

• In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.

• It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the device of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand its internal wiring. However, here you can figure it out by ringing all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the cartridges (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and empirically find out which horn is powered from which wire. After that, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.

There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of a circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all cartridges, but in practice it is still probably easier to just ring each horn.

So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and fixed wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and a group of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.

Video: wiring diagram for a five-arm chandelier to a two-gang switch

Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room

If everything became clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of work depends on the design of the chandelier, and on the type of ceiling covering.

Hanging a chandelier on a hook

This is an old and proven method of mounting chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.

In older multi-storey buildings, hanging hooks were installed in the ceiling holes at the construction stage. If it is worth it, then the problem is less, however, it does not hurt to check it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load is easily maintained, then there should not be any special concerns.

But what if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? No problem, you can install it yourself.

In principle, there should be no problems with a wooden ceiling - a hook-screw is easily screwed in there.

With a concrete floor slab, there can be various solutions:

— You can hang a hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the plate. In this case, care must be taken not to damage the wiring passing there with the rod.

- Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a “butterfly” lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.

- If this option is not possible, for example, in the case when there is no "regular" opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the concrete floor for a plastic dowel, but it is still better - for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.

Before drilling, it is useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from the junction box to the outlet on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.

If the internal cavity of the plate is caught during drilling, a special metal dowel for hollow structures - with screwing it in, a “skirt” is formed that securely holds the fastener in the ceiling.

After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. After that, it is recommended to insulate the protruding metal part by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting on it a heat-shrinkable tube of the appropriate diameter, followed by heating.

If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier for a regular mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply of the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected by terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks can occur on them with melting of the insulation. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram, about which it was written above.

The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually closed with a decorative glass (cap).

After completing the installation, turn on the power supply at the panel, then at the switch, in order to immediately verify that there are no short circuits. It does not hurt to check the absence of a phase on the metal body of the chandelier with an indicator. If everything is fine, then when the switch keys are turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed or inserted into the cartridge and the practical functionality of all chandelier horns is checked in all switching modes.

After checking, you can proceed to the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative parts, etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.

Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate

Many manufactured chandeliers, especially those designed for low spaces, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screw fasteners on a special mounting plate fixed to the ceiling. This greatly improves the reliability of the overall installation, as the load is evenly distributed across multiple attachment points.

The design of the mounting plate can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The bar can be straight or curved, with brackets for fixing the body of the lighting fixture, or with protruding studs or screws.

Particularly heavy chandeliers can be supplied with cruciform planks or in the form of a reinforced I-profile.

The bar may have a hole with the edges covered with an insulating sleeve for the passage of wires coming out of the ceiling. You can place the bar in the immediate vicinity of the cable outlet - the body of the installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring.

The mounting plate is fixed to the ceiling plane in various ways, depending on the specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference being that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, ordinary ones are used, with a clamping head “under hide».

As well as when using a hook, the reliability of fastening under load must be checked.

Quite often, a situation occurs when the excessively close location of the dowels from the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure the reliability of installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So the optimal choice of fasteners and installation location still remains with the direct executor of the work.

Fastening the chandelier itself to the mounting plate can also have its own characteristics. Perhaps, in this case, help is required - the lamp will have to be held on weight while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the body of the chandelier is attached to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.

Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was described above.

Features of fastening the chandelier to the plasterboard ceiling

By and large, the placement of the chandelier should not be planned even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or more additional metal profiles are provided in advance for attaching the mounting plate or installed a hook, which will then be easy to build up with a chain or rod. In the drywall sheet, a hole is immediately marked and drilled in the right place for the exit of wires and a hook.

But what if this question of hanging a chandelier arose later?

• In the case when the lighting fixture is of a suspended type, it is impossible to install the hook directly into the GVL - its strength is unlikely to be enough for a point load. You can do it like this:

A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.

Exactly in the center of this opening, a hole is drilled in the floor slab along the anchor fastening with a long drill installed in a puncher.

An anchor with a long threaded stud is inserted and fixed to the limit in the hole made, so that the stud comes out beyond the drywall plane.

An eye nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, to which the chandelier itself will later be hung. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.

If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling - everything same way, as when working on a conventional ceiling, only the fasteners do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it comes out.

• If the chandelier is a console type, that is, it is installed on a mounting plate, then a lot depends on its mass.

- In the case when the total weight from the fixture does not exceed 3 - 5 kg, you can fix the bar directly to the GVL sheet. For this, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.

The first are held as a result of the expansion of the plastic structure under the drywall sheet when screwing in the self-tapping screw. The second principle of operation is different - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwing in. The "snail" is screwed in completely, flush with the GVL surface, in the right place, and a hole remains in its center, into which an ordinary self-tapping screw easily enters.

- If the chandelier is heavier, then to fix the mounting plate, you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become mounts for a slatted or cross-shaped console.

All further actions are no different from mounting a chandelier on a regular ceiling.

Video: fixing a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

Prices for different types of anchors

Anchors

Mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

No practical advice on self-assembly of the chandelier on a heavy ceiling will be given - this should be done only by masters and exclusively before hanging the ceiling canvas.

Read detailed information about what is important to know in our new article.

To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall on the planned height of the stretched canvas. Based on the location of this embedded platform, the craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, reinforcing their edges, through which the wires and fasteners will pass.

Attempts to cut holes on your own in order to hang the chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using methods of working like a plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. A deplorable, but logical result of such amateur performances will be the need for a complete replacement of the canvas.

After the “ceiling” masters finish their work, leaving the necessary holes reinforced with special eyelets for the chandelier and fasteners, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care so as not to break or puncture the surface in any case.

On a heavy ceiling, it is preferable to use a pendant one so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, "halogens" or fluorescent "housekeepers" are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly spoil the decorative effect of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.

Video: an example of mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

The chandelier is a ceiling lamp that should provide shadowless lighting in the room. Light is evenly distributed by spotlights located at a certain distance from each other. Light sources today are incandescent, fluorescent and LED.

Purchasing a chandelier is a pleasant moment when you finish furnishing your home and after buying a new piece of furniture, it remains to connect it. Assembly time depends on the complexity of the design and the type of fastening. Moreover, you can cope with this task quickly and easily, just follow the instructions and have simple installation tools in your arsenal, and in order to connect it, you also need to understand the electrics.

A multi-lamp lamp is available in all apartments and houses. For even distribution of light, it is usually located in the center of the ceiling. Let's see what knowledge is required to connect the chandelier with your own hands.

Where to begin?

First you need to figure out how many cords come out of the ceiling. Usually there are two or three. If there are two of them, then the design provides for the simultaneous inclusion of all the bulbs and there will be no difficulties with connecting the chandelier. And the presence of three cords makes it possible to turn on the bulbs individually and group them to change the level of illumination. As a result, the difficulty arises in the fact that you need to understand which wires to connect to each other. In order for the chandelier to work properly, it is important to connect everything correctly. Before starting work, be sure to familiarize yourself with the cable arrangement. So, let's proceed in order.

Observe safety precautions

The main requirement during the connection of the chandelier is the de-energization of the entire section of the electrical wiring. Simply turning off the light in this case is not enough, you need to completely turn off the machines in the shield.

Then you need to prepare the cables for testing. They should be opened to prevent further contact with each other.

According to the marking, cables are designated in Latin letters:

It should be noted that the marking is not always present, because it began to be applied not so long ago. In this case, you should use the machine located in the shield and turn the switch to the "ON" position. Then, with an indicator screwdriver, you need to touch the bare ends in turn - if the LED lights up inside during the process - the cable is energized and is a phase. After determining the types of wires, turn off the power again and proceed to connection work.

There are two ways to connect cables to each other:

Chandelier mounting options can be found by clicking on the link:

The following parameters can affect the way the chandelier is connected:

• the number of cords in the chandelier;
• the number of wires in the ceiling;
• number of keys on the switch.

Scheme one. Two cords on the chandelier and two wires on the ceiling

This method of connecting a chandelier is the easiest, because it does not require much effort. In this case, it is necessary to simply connect the cables to each other using a twist or terminal block, having previously determined where the phase is and where it is zero. Moreover, the connection order can be any.

The neutral cable (blue in the diagram) should be connected from the junction box directly to the neutral wire coming from the lighting device. And the orange cable, with a phase, should be connected to both the chandelier and the switch.

When connecting a chandelier with a large number of light bulbs to a switch with one key, you must first connect all the neutral wires of the chandelier, and then connect them to the neutral cable from the junction box. Then combine them with the phase and lead to the switch.

It's important to know! According to the requirements of the electrical installation rules (PUE), the phase must be connected to the central contact in the electrical cartridge, and the phase wire must be opened by a switch. Compliance with these rules will increase the safety of the operation of lighting devices.

Scheme two. Two cords on the chandelier and three wires on the ceiling

Today, in the construction of houses in electrical wiring, three-core cables with wires of different colors are used. It is logical to assume that three wires will need to be connected to the lighting fixture. How to connect a chandelier in this situation, if it has only two cables?

To begin with, using the indicator, you need to deal with the types of wires that come out of the ceiling. Two of them will be phase, and the third will be a conductor. Two phases in this case imply a switch with two keys. However, given the fact that the chandelier has only two cables, a switch with one key will suffice.

It's important to know! Before connecting, it is necessary to carry out insulation, having previously turned off the voltage.

Scheme three. Three or more cords on the chandelier and two wires on the ceiling

In the case when only two cables come out of the ceiling, all the lamps in the lighting fixture will burn at the same time. To connect, you need to combine the neutral wires, and then lead them to the zero ceiling cable. Next, it is worth repeating the procedure with phase.

Scheme four. Three or more wires on the chandelier and three on the ceiling

This connection option can provide a more reasonable use of lamps. It will be possible to combine their work or turn them on in turn. In this case, a two-gang switch will be used.

The marking of the ceiling wires is as follows: phase - L1 (orange), phase - L2 (yellow) and zero - N (blue). Due to the fact that manufacturers of cable products do not always indicate designations, and electricians may not adhere to color scheme standards when installing wiring, it is better to double-check their purpose with an indicator screwdriver before connecting them.

It's important to know! Do not forget that phase cables are always laid to the switch, and zero cables to the lighting fixture.

Connecting a chandelier with several cords is carried out with a certain sequence of actions. First, the wires from the light bulbs must be divided into two groups. All sections are individually connected to only one wire, to which the phase leads, and then the sections are combined with zero.

With this setting, one group of light bulbs will light up with the first key, and another group with the second. This connection option allows you to connect one, two or three bulbs together using only one switch button.

The second way to connect a chandelier, for example, with six horns - the first key turns on 5 light bulbs together, and the second - the sixth.

With a large number of horns in the lighting device, the installation will proceed in an identical way. It remains to decide which combination of lamps you want to use in lighting this room.

Scheme five. Three or more wires on the chandelier and four on the ceiling

If it is necessary to connect a chandelier in a new building or a private house, most likely, a cord with a protection function will come out of the ceiling. As a rule, this cable is yellow-green and is marked in Latin letters PE, which literally means a grounding conductor. As a result, from the side of the ceiling there will be wires with phases L1 and L2, a neutral wire and a fourth pinching wire - PE.

In no case will such a cord interfere with the connection - just connect it to the yellow-green wire from the side of the chandelier. If the lighting device does not provide for the presence of this wire, then the cable is insulated from the ceiling side.

Installation of several chandeliers on one switch

This connection case is very relevant for lighting control in several rooms, large living rooms or in a room with a false ceiling with a group of LED lamps.

In this situation, all lighting fixtures must be connected in parallel.

Moreover, each chandelier can have its own junction box.

Mounting three chandeliers on a three-gang switch

This connection method is used in kitchen, toilet and bathroom lighting, and the three-button switch is very convenient here.

Also, a switch with three keys is used in the corridor to control the light in different areas.

Installation of a chandelier with a fan

Connecting such a model is a fairly rational solution, especially in hot weather. Before installing this type of lighting device, you just need to read the instructions, which will detail the connection diagram.

To make it clearer: the fan in this case acts as another lamp, which is connected in parallel.

At your request, you can also make a separate switch key for it.

As you can see, connecting a lighting fixture is a simple task if you know how to do it right. Follow the diagrams, follow the installation rules, and you can easily cope with the connection without outside help.

Hello, dear readers and guests of the Electrician's Notes website.

The other day I was replacing an old chandelier with a new five-arm one.

The house was panel, so I want to pay special attention to this, because. there is a small nuance that I encountered once again. But first things first.

First you need to take care of personal electrical safety. We turn off the necessary circuit breaker, on the supply wires at the chandelier or single-pole indicator, and only after that we start work.

You will say that to do this work, it is enough to turn off both keys of the switch. I answer, what if some one initially connected it incorrectly and the switch switches not phases, but zeros? Moreover, according to the customer, the two-gang switch was faulty. But I will talk about this at the end of the article.

We bite off the wires and remove the old chandelier. The photo shows that on the power wires, but on the wires going directly to the chandelier, it is available: two yellow wires are phases from different switch keys, and the blue wire is zero. Now we will not remember the marking, because. it still needs to be checked.

To install the mounting plate for a new chandelier, you need to dismantle the decorative plug and hook. We slightly hollow it out, it falls out along with the hook-holder (by the way, it is also plastic).

And now we have such a view on the ceiling (at the beginning of the article I talked about the nuance). This is not the first panel house where I meet with similar "technological" holes. When installing a new chandelier, be sure to hide this horror.

But here a problem arises. It consists in the fact that if you drill holes for the mounting plate from the edge of the plate, then it (the edge) can break off (crumble) when drilling with a puncher. So I had to slightly shift the installation of the chandelier in order to drill holes not at the edge of the slab, but a little further. In this case, it must be taken into account that the base of the chandelier completely covers this hole. If it is not possible to completely close it, then you can carefully plaster it.

Dealing with wires coming out of the ceiling

Electrical wiring in panel houses is laid either in special channels (voids) or at the joints between the plates. Most often, in the ceiling slab (floor slab) there are channels running parallel to each other at a certain distance. In my case, the wires lie directly on the surface of the ceiling plate. It all depends on the panel house series.

The electrical wiring is aluminum and is made with a three-core wire APPV (3x2.5).

And now we need to deal with the wires coming out of the ceiling, namely, find two phase (L1, L2) and one zero (N). This can be done in several ways. I'll show you the simplest one.

Make sure that the bare ends of the wires do not touch each other, to do this, carefully spread them apart.

• phase from the first switch key (L1)
• phase from the second switch key (L2)
• zero (N)

We turn on the disconnected circuit breaker in the apartment or floor shield. Then we turn on the first key of the switch and using a single-pole indicator or voltage indicator "Contact-55EM" we find the phase (L1), which is connected to the first key of the switch. You can find out how to use these devices at the following links:

Then turn off the first key and turn on the second. Similarly, we are looking for the phase (L2), which is connected to the second key.

Do not forget to first make sure that your pointer is working properly by checking it on live parts that are obviously energized.

Thus, we have found two phases - L1 and L2. We have the third wire left - this is zero N.

How to connect a chandelier through a two-gang switch

Here is a wiring diagram for a chandelier consisting of five lamps.

• phase L1 (orange)
• phase L2 (yellow)
• zero N (blue)

We deal with the wires of the chandelier

First of all, we need to deal with the scheme of the chandelier itself, i.e. those wires that come out of its base.

In my example, each chandelier bulb has its own wires coming out. In total, 10 wires are removed from the base of the chandelier: 5 phase (brown) and 5 zero (blue). This is clearly visible in the photo below.

The advantage of such a chandelier is that a combination of light bulbs can be made as you wish, for example, you can connect only one light bulb to the first group, and the rest of the lamps to the second group.

We agreed with the customer that the first group of lamps will include two light bulbs, and the second group - the remaining three.

I will make all wire connections using two- and three-wire. By the way, a new 221 series was recently released - it is more convenient and compact.

So, we take two brown wires, preferably not nearby lamps, and connect them together. This will be our first twist and we will call it - L1. Then we take the three remaining brown wires and also twist them together. This will be the second twist, which we will assign the designation - L2. Here's what should work.

We insert the first (L1) and second (L2) twists into the corresponding Vago terminals.

Five blue wires are twisted together in any order (2 + 3) and connected to the three-wire Vago terminal. This will be our zero terminal (N).

It turned out the following.

It remains to connect the supply wires to the Vago terminals in accordance with the accepted marking.

You will now say that the Wago 222 series are designed for connecting only copper wires. I know, but I deliberately use them for connections and aluminum wires, due to the fact that the terminal's current-carrying rail is tin-plated, not copper. This means that there is no direct aluminum-copper contact.

Well, I like the terminals of this series.

The only thing is that they do not have a quartz-based paste with technical petroleum jelly, which would protect the compound from oxidation, destroying the formed oxide film on aluminum. But this is not a problem, you can purchase Wago Alu-Plus paste separately and syringe directly into the terminal block.

We carefully lay the wires at the base of the chandelier (there is not much space there) and install it on the bracket. Tighten decorative nuts. Chandelier installed.

We insert lamps with a power of 25 (W) of warm white color with an E14 base into the CFL chandelier.

At the beginning of the article, I said that the customer had a faulty two-gang switch. In his words, "with a light touch on the switch, he turned on and off the lamps several times in a row."

I removed the old switch and the cause of its malfunction was obvious.

At the switch of contacts, the latch of fastening to the switch body has broken off. In the photo below - a broken latch on the left, a whole one on the right.

The switch was removed in a place with an overlay, but should be removed separately.

This malfunction was the result of the “chaotic” operation of the two-gang switch. The switch was not fixed (fixed) to the case on the right side, the pressure on the contacts was weakened, and sometimes it was not there at all. When the right key was turned on, the movable part of the contact was not pressed against the fixed part - the contact disappeared and burned.

Instead of the old switch, I installed a new one with a ceramic base from Powerman (China).

Something lately I often come across this brand, well, for example, recently, and he was the same “Powerman”.

And now you can check the work of the new chandelier. Works properly!

P.S. I hope that after reading this article you will not have any questions about how to connect a chandelier with a two-gang switch. Well, if they arise, then feel free to ask through the comment form or feedback. Thank you for your attention.

The next step after the completion of the repair work is the connection of lighting fixtures. Often, especially for beginners, the question arises of how to connect a chandelier with 3 wires. If the connection is not made correctly, there is a risk of a short circuit.

Marking

Three-core wires are distinguished, they are called phase, zero and ground types. It is important to consider the features of their labeling.

The protective "zero" is marked in yellow-green, green and yellow, as well as in Latin letters: "PE".

The working "zero" is called neutral cables, which are blue. They are referred to as "N".

The phase voltage carries the wire marked "L", which is gray, black or brown.

Tools

To carry out the workflow, you will need an indicator screwdriver, cambric, stepladder (or table).

Option 1

Conductor 4, yellow with a green stripe, is ground. Other cables need to be checked.

It is worth considering the situation in more detail, how to connect a chandelier with three wires.

To start with a yellow-green color, the rest must be correctly distributed. Internal connections in modern designs have already been completed.

From the outside, phase cables depart separately from each lamp. In this case, there is a connecting zero cable.

In the event that the lamp has 2 lamps, then the conductors are not connected to each other. Thanks to this, the user has the ability to turn on the light sources one by one. It is possible to switch on simultaneously with two pushbuttons.

The next step is the connection itself. Zero corresponds to the neutral wire. They are connected to certain types of keys; to simultaneously turn on, it is enough to hold down two keys at once.

This stage is carried out by turning off the circuit breaker.

Option 2

This is an option when there are three wires in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling and chandelier.

One of the keys connects respectively one lamp. Another key is responsible for turning on all the lamps. To achieve the desired effect, you must adhere to a certain scheme.

Three wires are connected together with each conductor in the ceiling separately. The result is three wires.

Four light bulbs

Today, this option is used quite often. Moreover, one performs the functional work of protection. Because of this, it is called grounding. The yellow wire is used for this purpose.

Connection method, further actions will have the following order.

Protective conductors are insulated separately. All others are connected by the following method.

five lamps

This scheme is similar to a three-arm chandelier.

There are options when they are on:

• 1, 4 or all 5 lamps;
• 2, 3 or all 5 lamps.

The most popular is the schematic implementation of 2 + 3. The diagram looks like this.

It is worth noting that before starting the workflow, the indicator screwdriver is checked. The tip must touch the phase conductor. It must have a phase. A light should light up in the socket on the inside of the tool.

Also important: if there is no protective earthing in the room, insulation is required in the interior.

If protection is present, one tip is connected to the body of the lighting fixture. The second end must be connected to the ceiling protective conductor.

Final stage

A switch is installed on the phase wire. It is opened, distributed properly. If necessary, connect multi-key devices. You can purchase one-, two-, or three-key devices. Schematically, their connection will be different. It is important to consider all the features of these options.

The connection diagram of a single-key device is quite simple to use. With its help, you can light and simultaneously extinguish all the lamps at once. With two lead wires that are in the ceiling area, it is used based on their number.

The final step in this variant is as follows. Installation work is carried out in the area of ​​​​the wall, the inclusion of a phase. To determine the correct cable, you should use an indicator screwdriver. When connected to it, you will notice a characteristic glow. In the event that the indicator is not lit, a connection to the neutral wire has occurred.

The wiring diagram for a two-key device is a little more complicated. At the entry point, the device is connected in the same way as the option presented above. They are connected in a certain way with wires that run along the surface of the ceiling.

The connection diagram of a three-key device is also complicated. It is used specifically to control chandeliers. Thanks to this, the master has the ability to distribute lamps into three different independent groups.

A free core is provided, the steps for connecting to it are similar. A phase is connected to the input of the switch, a phase is connected to the output to separate lamp groups.

When performing work, it is necessary to follow all safety rules. When laying cables and carrying out installation, it is necessary to turn off the power source. You can carry out the procedure using an indicator screwdriver.

The master should adhere to certain rules:

• power outage;
• careful study of the wiring diagram.

Progressive Solutions

Manufacturers offer a wide range of devices. A modern solution is to connect chandeliers with control. A switch is mounted in the wall, with which the device can be controlled remotely. Its location does not matter.

This approach is safe, facilitates the conditions for using the lighting device. Their difference from the usual devices lies in the design, additional controls. Installation work is no different from standard light sources.

It is worth noting that the procedure for connecting a chandelier involves a certain kind of preparation. We are talking about the choice of tools, the study of instructions, the features of the work. A novice master can cope with this task.

In the event that you still doubt your abilities, skill, then the best way out is to contact a specialist. They will perform the work at the highest level, observing all safety rules.