Plasterboard ceiling single-level embed lamps. How to assemble a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. We sheathe the frame with drywall

The plasterboard ceiling is known as a decorative and technically convenient element of the living space. The technical convenience of a plasterboard ceiling in closing engineering communications, hiding the insulation system and the possibility of quickly leveling the main ceiling. A variety of plasterboard ceiling designs allow you to significantly change the design of the room by making illuminated ceilings, two-level ceilings, and figured ceiling structures.

Of course, it is worth noting that the plasterboard ceiling requires finishing. Unlike other ceiling structures, it needs to be plastered and painted, which can be inconvenient due to timing or other reasons. It is much easier to choose a ceiling from PVC ceiling panels. PVC panels do not require finishing. They are completely ready for installation, have a variety of colors and designs. In addition, PVC panels are not afraid of moisture and can be installed on the balcony, in the bathroom and other wet rooms of the house and apartment. On this site you can learn everything about PVC panels.

However, despite all this, the plasterboard ceiling and the PVC panel ceiling have different tasks and no one forbade them to be combined. One to hide communications, the second to make a quick finish.

Choosing the type of plasterboard ceiling

When making a hard ceiling with your own hands, you would need a guide profile around the perimeter of the room (PNP 20/27). Its length can be calculated by the length of the perimeter of the room plus 10% of the margin. In this floating ceiling design, this profile is not needed.

The main structure of the floating ceiling frame is a kind of grid of ceiling profiles (PP 60/27). Some of these profiles will be attached to suspensions (they are called the main ones). The second part of the profiles will be attached to these profiles (they are called carriers). The name is bearing, due to the fact that drywall sheets will be attached to these profiles.

In drywall technologies, intersecting ceiling profiles can be connected at one level (butt) or at two levels, overlapping one another.

The first connection is called a single-level connection of ceiling profiles and it is made with special crab-type fasteners.
The second connection is called a two-level connection and it is made a two-level profile connector.

In the design of the floating ceiling, only two-level connection of profiles is used!

I repeat and this is important. In the construction of the plasterboard ceiling frame, two types of profiles are clearly separated. Some profiles are called main, the second are called carrier (load). The main profiles are attached to the draft ceiling, and the load profiles bear the load from the weight of the drywall attached to them.

Important! In a two-level frame, the main profiles are located at the top of the structure, and load-bearing profiles are attached to them.

Mounting material plasterboard ceiling

For any type of plasterboard ceiling, you will need fixing material:

Screw type: TB
Screws type: LB (bugs)

Be sure to purchase soundproof tape type Dichtungsband. It is glued to the outer sides of the shelves of the rigid false ceiling profiles, for sound insulation and deformation compensation.

Purchase of drywall

For the ceiling, the following type of drywall sheet is purchased:

For dry rooms: GKL.
For wet rooms: GKVL.

Tool preparation

For work, prepare the following tool:

Laser level;
Perforator;
A hammer;
Knife to cut the hyposcraton;
Screwdriver Set;
Metal shears or cutting machine;
Painting tool.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling - marking

When making a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, it is important to make the markup correctly. You need to start work by cleaning the old ceiling and the top of the walls from the old building material. If necessary, the walls are strengthened with building mixtures.
We begin work with marking the ceiling. Marking is best done using a laser level.
We apply the lower level of the ceiling along the perimeter of the room.

On the ceiling we apply the attachment points of the suspensions, taking into account the distances from the extreme profiles to the walls (at least 100 mm) and the distances between the main profiles (at least 600 mm).

For accurate marking, we put on the marking lines the location (attachment) of the suspensions. For marking, we use a building marking cord and, with the help of an assistant, we fill the markings on the ceiling.

Installation of hangers

According to the markings made, we install the suspension rods using dowels with screws or other fasteners.
On the installed rods, at the general level, we fasten the clamps with hangers for the profiles.

Mounting the ceiling frame

Do-it-yourself installation of the ceiling frame begins with the installation of the main profiles. They are fixed with a suspension in the following way.

We attach load profiles to the main profiles. We connect them to the main profiles with a two-level suspension.
We observe technological distances between profiles.

Important! When making a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, we constantly measure the horizontal profile levels. If necessary, adjust the level with clamps on the rods. In the photo, such an adjustment is shown by arrows.

Upon completion of the installation of the frame, we once again check the horizontalness of the entire structure in different directions.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

Plasterboard sheets are attached to load profiles with TN self-tapping screws with a pitch of 150 mm. To support the sheets, you will need an assistant or fixture. You can make a device for supporting sheets with your own hands, for example, a T-shaped support from wooden slats.

The plasterboard ceiling was chosen due to the fact that the floor slabs were laid unevenly and there were height differences of 5-7 centimeters between them. This type of ceiling perfectly hides this drawback, besides it is beautiful and quite unpretentious in operation.

Plasterboard ceiling installation can be divided into three stages:

Installation of the frame of the future ceiling.
Plasterboard sheathing.
Puttying and painting the new ceiling.

Before starting the installation of the frame, you need to calculate and purchase the required amount of materials, as well as prepare the necessary tools.

For the frame, we need the following materials:

anchor wedge for attaching suspensions to the ceiling, each suspension has two anchor wedges;
straight hangers - attached to the ceiling and hold the carrier profile;
PP profile extensions. Necessary if you have to splice the carrier profiles together when the profile is shorter than the required length;
profile PP 60x27 is the main profile. On it we will attach sheets of drywall;
profile PN 28x27 - fastened to the walls along the perimeter of the future ceiling and holds the profiles on the walls;
dowel nail - fastens the PN profile to the wall;
crabs - for splicing the carrier and transverse profile;
screws "klopiki" - for connecting all these parts into a single structure.

In addition, the following tools will be needed: - hammer, tape measure, pencil, chopping cord, puncher, screwdriver, drill bits, metal shears and a level, preferably a laser one.

Installing a horizontal profile

Installation of the frame begins with cleaning the ceiling and removing the old coating, such as foam panels or wallpaper. The lagging putty must also be cleaned off so that it does not fall on the new ceiling in the future. After we begin to mark the horizontal level of the future ceiling.

Attention!!! It is necessary to mark the place of fastening of the profile taking into account the electrical wiring laid in the wall! If, nevertheless, during work you damage the wire, it is necessary to put a small junction box at the place of the break, and fasten the wires with reliable connectors.

After you have marked the location of the wiring, according to the level, in the corners of the room we put marks for the future horizon of the ceiling, taking into account the fact that during the installation of the profile you will not damage the electrical wires in the wall. Then, with a chopping cord, we connect them together. It turns out exactly horizontal straight lines, relative to which we attach PN profiles to the wall. The profile is applied to the wall, exactly above the line left by the chopping cord and the drill, a hole 3.5-4 cm deep is drilled through the profile, after which the dowel is hammered into the wall through the profile with a hammer. Holes are drilled at a distance of 35 - 40 cm from each other. As a result, you should get a horizontal belt from the profile around the entire perimeter of the future ceiling.

We mount the supporting frame

Next, we mark the ceiling for mounting suspensions. It must be remembered that in this case, drywall sheets are attached to the ceiling along the long wall of the room, and not across. For my room, I marked the ceiling as follows. I drew an center line in the center and from it on the right and left sides I drew parallel lines every 60 cm. As a result, we got 5 parallel lines, which in the future will be the center lines of the supporting profiles. On each line, stepping back from the wall 25 cm, after 50 cm, we mark the places where the suspensions will be attached to the ceiling. After that, we drill holes for the dowels with a puncher and nail the hangers to the ceiling.

A little advice- to improve sound insulation, a washer made of hard cardboard can be placed between the anchor and the hanger. This will reduce the sound transmission from the concrete to the ceiling frame.

Now we begin to fix the carrier profile on the hangers. To do this, we insert one end of the PP profile into the groove of the profile fixed on the wall and in level, maintaining the exactly horizontal position of the profile, we fasten it with clod screws to the suspensions

It is necessary to control the horizontal installation of the profile in all planes, including relatively parallel fixed profiles.

For ease of control, you can stretch the rope across the room, fixing it on the lower parts of the profiles installed on the walls. If suddenly you notice that the profile is bent, or fixed incorrectly, unscrew the screws in the bending points and re-drill them, taking into account the level.

The next step in creating a plasterboard ceiling will be the installation of transverse profiles. They are cut from the PP profile and connected to the supporting profiles using crabs and bug screws

attaching profiles to each other. The first transverse profiles are fixed at a distance of 15 cm from the wall, and then every 50 cm.

As a result, you should get something like this design.

We sheathe the frame with drywall

So, the frame is ready and now we begin to sheathe it with sheets of drywall.

The sheets are fastened along the supporting profiles in such a way that on one section of the profile, it would be possible to fix the edges of two parallel drywall sheets. The sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern and attached to the profiles with metal screws, sinking the hats into the drywall by 1 mm.

A gap of about 5 mm is left between the sheets in order for the putty to hold securely in the seams.

Small areas can be sewn up with drywall scraps.

We putty the ceiling

After the entire ceiling is covered with drywall, all seams are primed and carefully leveled with a special putty for seams. Self-tapping screws are also puttied, but without soil, so that over time they do not begin to rust.

After the seams have dried, the entire ceiling is primed and the first layer of drywall putty is applied. After the first layer has dried, protruding fragments are removed from the ceiling with a spatula, and a second, thinner layer is applied, which evens out irregularities and fills in small depressions. After the second layer dries, the ceiling is cleaned with a fine emery mesh and covered with water-based paint. Now in your room there is a new do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling.

By substituting the dimensions of your ceiling into the online calculator, you can find out the amount of materials needed to level a plasterboard ceiling with a single-level metal frame device.

Suspended flow frame with single-level connectors is done in large rooms, where it is necessary to achieve a minimum drop of the ceiling from the base ceiling of the room. Such a frame is attached to the base ceiling with direct suspensions.

Overhead flow material with single level connectors

For a false ceiling, the frame of which is made with a single-level connector, you will need the following material:

Guide ceiling profiles PN28/27;
Ceiling profiles PP 60/27;
PP profile connectors single-level ("crab");
Direct suspensions;

Fasteners for drywall works.

Stages of work on the installation of a false ceiling

Work on the installation of the ceiling is divided into four stages:

Ceiling markings;
Frame installation;
Fastening drywall sheets to the frame;
Painting works.

Ceiling markings

First of all, you need to mark a line along the perimeter of the room for attaching the PN27/28 profile. For accurate marking, it is better to use a laser level. It can be replaced by a long building level or a water level - a spirit level.

In marking the ceiling, the distances from the walls to the attachment points of direct suspensions and the distances from the walls to the main and load (bearing) profiles are important (see photo below).

The distance from the wall to the first main profile and between the axes of the main profiles must be at least 1170 mm. (The main profile is attached to a direct suspension).
The distance from the walls to the first load profiles must be ≤100 mm.
The distance between the axes of the load profiles must be 500 mm.

Now about marking the attachment points of the suspensions. The distance between the hangers should be:

With a single-layer ceiling (plasterboard in one layer) - 1100 mm;
With a two-layer ceiling (drywall in two layers) - 650 mm.

Mounting the false ceiling frame

Along the perimeter of the room, according to the pre-made markup, fix the profile PN27/28. Step between fasteners (dowel-K) 500 mm. There must be a soundproof tape between the wall and the profile. It is glued to the profile;
Fix direct suspensions on the ceiling (fastening with plastic dowels and screws);

First, the main profiles PP60/27 are mounted. The profile is inserted into the guide profiles, then, strictly horizontally, it is attached to the hangers. The profile is attached to the hangers with metal-to-metal screws (LB or LN 19mm).

After fixing the main profiles, load profiles are attached between them. Load profiles are essentially jumpers between the main profiles, attached to the main profiles using single-level connectors.

Profile connections are fixed with FN screws.

frame overhead flow with single-level connectors ready. Let's move on to fixing drywall sheets.

Fastening drywall sheets to the frame

Drywall sheets are fastened to the frame with sheets offset. The offset of the transverse joints should be in the region of 600 mm. TN screws are used for fixing the sheets.

Painting works

Painting work is standard.

Glued with reinforcing paint mesh;
They putty again;
The heads of screws recessed by 1-2 mm are puttied;
The entire ceiling is puttied 2-3-4 times.
To improve the quality of puttying, you can glue the entire ceiling with a paint mesh with a small cell.

Frankly, not all customers set themselves the goal of turning their apartment into an ultra-modern living space with a lot of ornate ideas and intricate design solutions. Some unnecessary complications of the interior are considered not only expensive, but also literally tedious pleasure.

Either people are brought up like that, or their state of health is such that it does not allow evaluating modern ideas, or maybe everything is much simpler - there is not much money, and what you just want to save. Be that as it may, the fact remains that most customers planning to finish the GKL surface prefer simple single-level plasterboard ceilings.

These ceilings, if they can surprise with something, only with their perfectly flat and smooth surface. By and large, this is quite enough to make the room look decent, and it was not a shame to receive guests in it.

General information about a simple plasterboard ceiling

The classic version of the simplest is characterized by the presence of the following main components:

durable metal frame, constructed from a galvanized profile, fixed to the ceiling on suspensions;
a facing layer consisting of plasterboard, which is securely screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws;
a built-in spot lighting system, the supply lines of which are completely hidden from view under the skin.

Material selection

Whatever the ceiling being constructed, simple or complex, the material for it needs the same quality. This is especially true for gypsum boards, which can have various purposes:

standard;
moisture resistant;
fire resistant;
moisture and fire resistant.

Most often, the ceilings in houses and apartments are sheathed using ordinary or moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.

Advice: If, after delivering the material to your home, it seems to you that it is a little damp, there is nothing to worry about. The main thing is to carefully bring it into the room and let it lie down for a while. In a dry room, literally the next day, the sheets are completely suitable for further use.

Preparing the base for the frame

The beginning of the main work is preceded by the preparation of walls and the base ceiling:

we remove the wallpaper completely from the walls, and the surface can not be touched. However, if the room is damp, it is still better to remove the paper;
dismantling old lighting fixtures;
remove loose plaster;
draw marking lines on the walls and ceiling using chocline. First, marks are placed on the walls in all corners at the level of installation of a new coating. The hydraulic level will help with this. Next, the labels are interconnected, resulting in a closed loop. Also, on the ceiling with a step of 60 cm, parallel lines are applied, along which suspensions will be located in the future, and directly below them along them - bearing profiles.

Frame installation

The final appearance of any frame structure, including a single-level plasterboard ceiling, largely depends on how the frame is mounted. Mistakes made at this stage cannot be corrected by either finishers or painters, because if there is a skew of the plane, the putty will not hide this flaw in any way.

With responsibility in mind, let's get to work by doing the following:

above the line on the walls, located along the perimeter, we install the CD carrier profile, leaving no gaps. For its installation, driven screws are used, equipped with the same size plastic dowels with a “collar”. Their size is 6×40 mm. If the wall is loose, you need to use longer screws and dowels. The distance between the fasteners is about 50 cm. The short profile can be extended by inserting a new piece inside the already installed one or using small special extensions for the guide profile inserted into both parts;
when the guide contour from the UD profile is ready, we proceed to the installation of the supporting part of the structure. First, along the lines on the surface, we fasten metal brackets, which are also called suspensions. For each hanger, two holes must be drilled in the ceiling slab opposite the mounting holes on the hanger. Fixing the suspension to the ceiling should be as rigid as possible. The presence of even a minimal backlash is unacceptable. Suspensions are mounted at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other;
we install the CD carrier profile inside the guide, exposing its middle under the ceiling marking line. The length of the CD should be a little, 1-1.5 cm, less than the length of the distance between the walls, otherwise the profile cannot be installed without protrusion down or up, which is also not allowed;
we bend down the strips of all plumb lines by 90 °. You also need to take into account that the marking line, which is lowered too low, may lead to the fact that the length of the bracket for fixing the CD carrier profile in the bent down state may be insufficient. If you realized this late, the length of the suspensions will have to be increased. If you plan to lower the ceiling low, it is better to buy not standard suspensions, but longer samples;
we fasten the carrier profile to the hangers with self-tapping screws or short press washers with a drill at the end, having previously placed it along the lower edge of the guide profile. It is most convenient to determine the installation plane using a strong thread stretched across the room and a long rule. Each suspension is screwed with four self-tapping screws: two on each side.

For a conventional ceiling, the frame can also be made of wooden beams. You just need to be sure that it will not be exposed to moisture and other deformations. The beam used for mounting the frame must be dry, otherwise it is possible that the finished structure will begin to deform after the wooden frame dries. For reliability, the tree is pre-treated with a moisture-proof compound and dried.

Perhaps this is the main thing you need to know about the installation of the frame of a single-level drywall coating shown below in the photo.

Drywall processing

On the edges of the plasterboard, where there is no technological recess for applying putty, it is necessary to chamfer at an angle of 45 ° using a special planer for drywall. This can be done after installing the ceiling, but processing the installed sheet is more difficult, and debris flying down can get into your eyes.

On a note: Cutting drywall is easiest on a flat surface. To cut a whole sheet, first along a rule, ruler or other even object used in cutting, draw a knife, cutting through the outer layer of paper. Then, lifting the sheet, you just need to break it along the cut line.

Usually this is done without difficulty, and the fracture is straight. Now it remains only to cut the second side of the paper with a knife, keeping the sheet from falling or shifting.

Fixing drywall sheets

To reduce the load on the frame structure, it is better to use gypsum boards 9.5 mm thick for sheathing the frame. The fewer fragments will be used, the fewer seams will have to be sealed. A construction made with a minimum number of seams is more durable, and the likelihood of cracks on it is minimized.

Let's take into account some tips to help you fix drywall:

fastening work is best done with a partner, since it is very problematic to independently perform high-quality fastening of a heavy plate. When lifting up, the plate must be held on both sides in order to avoid its fracture in the middle;
to fasten one whole sheet of GKL, about 60 self-tapping screws 25-30 mm long are needed;
so that the self-tapping screws do not break through the plate when screwing in, a bit with a special screw-in depth limiter is used, which does not allow the screw to be sunk deeper than necessary;
it is better to start fixing the plates from the corner of the room;
above the short edges of the GKL, which will be joined to other plates, jumpers from the CD profile are installed between the main bearing profiles. I mount them on "crabs" or by cutting out a mounting shelf in the profile, through which the jumper is fixed to the carrier profile with "bug" screws;
the plates of the next row are stacked apart. This is necessary to avoid the formation of continuous transverse cracks in case of slight surface vibrations under the influence of external factors, for example, vibrations generated by street transport;
it is better not to join the plates too tightly, since the subsequent, high-quality filling of the joints with putty will only strengthen the seams.

The ceiling is now ready for grouting and finishing.

As can be seen from many photos, a well-finished simple plasterboard ceiling looks just exceptional. It remains to finish the design of the room, picking up good wallpaper and reliable flooring.

Do-it-yourself plastic surgery on the ceiling

Drywall is simply magical material for those who have been trying unsuccessfully for many years to veil the ceiling of their apartment with ceiling tiles or even to carefully putty everything on their own. If you have golden hands that can handle a screwdriver and a puncher as masterly as grandmother's hands with knitting needles and threads, it will not be difficult to decorate an apartment with your own hands with a single-level one. In addition, it will be possible to improve the lighting equipment of rooms, bypassing such problems: “Where to hide cords and wires that are unnecessary for the eye?”, “How to attach this light bulb?”. We take the necessary tools and storm the ceiling!

A set of necessary tools

GKL is a very convenient material that is easy to process. Even if in the process of work you accidentally get a dent on the GKL canvas, it's okay. When everything is ready, the bumps can simply be puttied. By the way, GCR is of two types, which differ in thickness: 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. It is better to use GKL in an apartment that is thinner. Do not forget that the installation of drywall makes the ceiling lower by at least 5 centimeters, and it is much easier for a beginner to work with gypsum board with a thickness of 9.5 mm.

Scheme of the frame of a single-level ceiling

It is impossible to do the installation of a plasterboard ceiling with bare hands. Therefore, you need to prepare carefully. The first step is to prepare the necessary tools. you will not be able to do without the following equipment:

spatula;
roulettes;
perforator;
scissors for metal;
screwdriver;
special mesh for putty;
bubble level;
sandpaper;
planer;
hammer;
construction knife;
gypsum plaster;
cord breaking device;
drywall (GKL).

The perfect do-it-yourself ceiling

First of all, along the perimeter of the ceiling, you need to draw a line along which the starting profile will be attached. This is where the level comes in handy so that the lines are even. In the corners of the room, you need to put marks, which should be at a distance of up to 20 cm from the main ceiling. This distance is useful in order to hide the wiring under the finishing material. Using the level of the label, you need to connect in one line.

When the sheets of drywall hang perfectly evenly over the room, it's time to start puttying.

Then we fix the starting profiles on the dowel-nails. The distance between the fasteners must be at least 35 centimeters and not more than 50 centimeters. Now you can start marking the base of the ceiling for the bearing and guiding suspensions. When the ceiling is already “decorated” with parallel lines, we begin to mount the suspensions. The dimensions of the suspensions are taken into account individually for each room and are attached to the ceiling using 40 mm dowel-nails. A little more, and you will do the work, for which you would give a considerable amount, with your own hands.

The most painstaking work did not end there. Now you need to insert the main guides into the starting profile that is located around the perimeter. Please note that you need to leave a backlash of 1-2 mm. This will ensure that the ceiling remains level during thermal deformation. We attach the installation of guides to the suspensions on both sides with self-tapping screws. Don't forget to leave a backlash. The installation of longitudinal profiles must also be done with fastening so that the frame is rigid. The metal profile is cut with scissors for metal. The distance between the longitudinal profiles must be left 400 mm - with longitudinal fastening of sheets, 600 mm - with transverse fastening.

With your own hands, you can somewhat insulate your apartment. This issue is especially relevant for those who live on the top floor. Mineral wool used for insulation must be carefully laid out between the profiles. The next item we have is the installation of drywall.

Drywall - a delicate matter

Now you can proceed to the solemn part called "Installation of drywall." At first glance, it seems that this is a very complicated matter, however, as soon as you start working, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult. Raise the sheet to the profile and fasten it with self-tapping screws. The interval between the screws should be 10-15 centimeters. When docking sheets, you need to be more careful with the ends of the GKL sheets. The ends of the GKL sheets with rounded ends should be in this shape. Don't think it's a marriage. This is done so that cracks do not appear in these places after puttying, because the puttying layer will be much thicker in these places than in the rest. If some self-tapping screws protrude into the GKL higher than 1 mm, they must be carefully tightened deeper. Thus, we will facilitate the process of puttying.

In places where you decide to install lighting fixtures, you need to carefully cut holes of the right size with a knife. When the drywall sheets hang perfectly evenly over the room, all the necessary actions have already been completed - it's time to start puttying.