A summer shower made of a metal profile is an inexpensive, convenient and reliable option for those who like to spend hot weekends not in a stuffy city, but among the greenery in their own country house. A profiled sheet can resist corrosion for up to 50 years, is easy to install, and, most importantly, even a complete novice in construction can build a summer shower in the country with their own hands. Detailed step-by-step instructions on how to do this can be found in this article.
Summer shower from a profiled sheet - photo of a variant with wooden support pillars and a decorative top bar
Water drainage: drainage or drain hole
Construction begins with the selection on the site of the most suitable place for a summer shower from a metal profile. Since it is desirable to maximize the use of solar heat for heating water, the shower should be located in an open area, lit throughout the day.
- Performing drainage.
- Organization of a drain hole.
The first method is relevant if a corrugated outdoor shower is needed only to freshen up, and is not intended for prolonged bathing. Then you can simply level a piece of land and pave it with paving stones, stone waste or rubble.
Creating drainage on clay soils
If the soil is clayey, then it is worth digging a hole 0.5-1 m deep, which then needs to be filled with alternating layers of gravel and sand 10-15 cm thick. Gravel should always act as the top layer, and sand as the bottom. To save money, gravel can be replaced with small construction debris, such as broken bricks. You can install a shower in the country directly on such a drainage.
The second case is when a country shower made of corrugated board will be used specifically for the purpose of clearing dirt using detergents, not only by you, but also by your family members. Then, to organize the flow, a small drain pit for a shower in the country is arranged.
Drain hole for a shower from a profiled sheet - a photo of an already equipped drain on the side with a connected pipe
The walls of the drain pit should be lined with stone or brick to prevent collapse, and the bottom should be left to absorb moisture. In addition, a shower drain in the country can be arranged by digging a plastic pipe or large diameter car tires into the ground.
The size of the hole depends on the soil and your needs. If a summer shower for a dacha made of corrugated board is needed for a family of 4 and will be located on sandy soil, then a depth of 1 m will be enough. If we are talking about clay, then 2 m will be the best option.
If the size of the site allows, it is better to organize the drain a little away from the shower itself, but if not, then it is possible right under it.
Do-it-yourself shower in the country: drawings and diagrams with dimensions
In order to make a summer shower from corrugated board, you need a drawing, or at least a diagram of a future building. They do not have to be detailed - it is enough to have basic dimensions, based on which you can plan a purchase with materials and further work with them. In addition, the presence of the scheme allows you to plan the technology with the stages of construction.
Drawing of a shower from a profiled sheet with wooden poles and a concrete floor
The country shower drawing above is a simplified version. It shows not only the dimensions, but also the schematic appearance of the shower. The diagram below shows a smaller building with the proposed installation of a tank on the roof, as well as a metal frame. Making a soul of just such a design, I will consider in this article.
Do-it-yourself scheme for a shower in the country house: drawings with dimensions
Creating a foundation for a shower from a metal profile
The foundation for a shower in a country house is usually made very simple, since the structure itself is light. Before making the floor, you need to install and concrete racks from a 60x40 mm profile for attaching the frame. This will increase the reliability of the structure and ensure that the summer shower in the country house made of corrugated board does not tip over from strong gusts of wind. The above-ground height of the racks can be from 2 to 2.5 meters, depending on the chosen shower design.
Since it is necessary to make a shower from corrugated board as reliably as possible, then to install the racks, you need to dig holes with a depth of 1-1.2 meters. For central Russia, this is enough, but for northern latitudes, it is worth additionally clarifying the depth of soil freezing in your area and deepening the racks below this value. At the bottom of the pits, a small layer of rubble should be poured and carefully compacted. Then the pillars are placed strictly vertically and the pits are filled with concrete.
Do not hurry
Before you mount a shower for a summer residence from a metal profile on racks, you must wait about a week. During this time, the concrete will have time to gain at least part of its strength. When performing concrete work and installing racks, it is imperative to use the building level.
Floor making
Making a floor for an outdoor shower is a simple process and, first of all, depends on what type of drain is chosen. If this is a drainage, then you need to bring a pipe from the drain to it, if it is located to the side, or put a wooden grate directly on top of it, which will act as a floor in the shower in the country.
On top of the pit, you can, again, install a wooden grate, or close it with a removable concrete cover with a drain hole. The remaining floor area is filled with cement mortar, having previously installed formwork from boards 70-80 mm high at the edges. To ensure a good drain for the shower in the country, it is necessary to make a floor with a slope towards the drain. Otherwise, water may begin to flow down the sides of the concrete screed.
Do-it-yourself construction of a shower in a country house begins with the installation of supports and the manufacture of a concrete or wood floor
If a summer shower for a summer residence from a profiled sheet is not located above the pit itself, but not far from it, then it is necessary to organize a drain. Again, this can be done by concreted plastic drain and pipe to the floor, or by using special plastic or metal pallets.
In the latter case, you can either pour a concrete screed under the country shower from a profiled sheet, or make a floor-platform from wooden boards. However, regardless of the material, the site should not be solid, but with a square hole in the center. Its size should be such that the selected shower tray for the summer house can easily fit there with its deep part, while it should be held by the protruding sides. The height of the floor can be greater than the depth of the pallet if it is made of metal, and must be equal if it is made of plastic.
This is due to the fact that the plastic shower tray for the country house is not very durable, and if it is “hung” without a stop, then under the weight of a person it can simply fall apart. If the depth of the pallet is small, then the problem is solved with the help of special supports. The cheapest way to do this is to use an ordinary wooden grate.
Drain pipe rules
If you decide to use a concrete screed as a floor, then the drain pipe is concreted, if a wooden platform, then it passes under it.
Frame device
Before you make a shower from a metal profile, you need to make its frame. To do this, after the concrete foundation has hardened, we connect the installed racks with light metal profiles or wooden bars, while leaving room for installing the door. If the frame for the shower in the country is made of wood, then it must be treated with an antiseptic composition that will prevent it from rotting, as well as the appearance of mold and fungus.
There are two ways to fix the harness on the racks. If it is made of metal, then it will be most reliable to weld the profiles to the racks. If you do not know how to work with a welding machine, and therefore you cannot weld a summer shower with your own hands from corrugated board, then you can use metal screws or screw connections for fastening. For the latter, holes will need to be pre-drilled in the profile. Wooden crossbars are fastened only with self-tapping screws.
Fastening the frame strapping for a shower from a metal profile - a photo of a bolted connection
The lower transverse profile must be fixed at the floor level, the second from the top - along the height of the corrugated board used. In order for the frame for the country shower to be sufficiently rigid and reliable, another 1-2 crossbars are installed between them. Finally, the last, uppermost transverse profile is attached 20-25 cm higher than the previous one. It is needed for making a shower roof from a profiled sheet and installing a tank.
The subtleties of fastening the shower door
When installing the frame trim for a summer shower made of corrugated board with your own hands, do not forget about the door. Therefore, only the two upper crossbars are fastened on all four sides, and all the rest - only on three. In addition, the hinges for the door must be welded in advance, before the walls are sewn.
Thus, it is quite simple to make a frame for a shower from a metal profile with your own hands. Decking is light and does not require a strong and heavy frame. Even for installing racks, a profile of 40 × 20 or 60 × 40 mm is quite enough. Do not be afraid that this whole structure after assembly can be movable. Rigidity will be provided by the walls of the profiled sheet fixed to the frame.
This material is one of the best options for sheathing a shower in a country house is cheaper and easier. It is not only reliable and durable, but also not afraid of moisture and looks very bright and attractive.
Wall lining
The next step after making the frame is finishing the shower with a metal profile on three sides. For its fastening, again, use self-tapping screws or rivets. It is necessary to fix the corrugated board every two waves. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the bottom of the wave and always evenly, otherwise the attachment points will quickly corrode.
Sometimes, for greater reliability, the profiled sheet is fixed at the bottom and at the top with a bolted connection. However, if you are building a shower from corrugated board with your own hands, then this is difficult to implement physically - you will need help with fixing the sheet. In addition, this measure is not necessary, since self-tapping screws are reliable if done correctly.
Sheathing the walls of the summer shower with corrugated board with bolted fastening
For fastening, it is better to use roofing screws with special washers made of self-vulcanizing rubber. On the inside, the attachment point must be covered with special waterproof sealants or simply painted. Finishing the shower in the country should be done with sufficiently short self-tapping screws or rivets so as not to punch through the profile of the crossbars.
Making a summer shower from a metal profile with your own hands, the last stage of sewing is this door installation.
Production and installation of doors
Since corrugated board is made of thin sheets of steel, you cannot simply weld hinges to it and use it as a door - in this application, the sheet deforms very quickly under its own weight. Therefore, in order to make a shower door from a profiled sheet with your own hands, you need to weld a frame, on which you can then fix the metal profile.
For the manufacture of the frame, you should use a profile of the same section as for racks with crossbars. If the width of the summer shower side is 1.5 meters or less, then the width of the door should be the same. If the width of the side is greater, then it is necessary to leave 1.5 meters for the door, install an additional profile parallel to the racks, and sew up the metal shower for giving with corrugated board in the rest. The height of the frame is determined based on the height of the corrugated board.
Trimming parts of the door frame at 45º and checking the correct angle
For the manufacture of the door frame, it is necessary to measure the profile of the desired length, then cut the joints at 45 ° and weld. If you make a door to a summer shower from a profiled sheet with your own hands, then before welding, without fail, lay out the profiles on a thick sheet of plywood or OSB (at least 10 mm) and secure them with clamps. If this is not done, then during welding the frame will “lead”, as a result of which it cannot be used for its intended purpose.
After the frame is ready, two crossbars and hinges are welded to it, and then sewn up with a profiled sheet. After sewing, a handle is screwed onto the door, and two hecks are placed: inside and outside. If desired, a small latch can be installed directly into the profile, then the shower from the profiled sheet can be used to store various bath trifles. In addition, coat hooks can be screwed onto the crossbars.
Roof and tank for country shower
Finally, you have reached the last stage and almost finished the shower in the country with your own hands from a profiled sheet. All the hard work is over - it remains only to choose a suitable water tank and install it.
In any building supermarket you can buy a flat plastic tank. This shape is specially designed for a summer shower. The capacity for a shower in the country is usually taken with a volume of 200 liters - this is enough for a small family. Since the construction of a shower in a country house from a metal profile involves a light frame, it is impossible to take a metal tank for installation on the roof.
Plastic tank for a country shower with an already embedded fitting with a watering can
Plastic tanks for a summer shower for a summer residence are usually sold with a fitting already installed. It remains only to screw a valve with a shower screen into it and you're done.
If there is no fitting, then you will have to make a hole yourself. However, it is not difficult - just follow these steps:
- in the right place, draw a circle of the required diameter;
- drill holes around the circumference with the smallest drill you have;
- with a sharp knife, simply connect the holes;
- insert the pipe into the resulting hole;
- clamp it well on both sides with washers with rubber gaskets.
If you do not have a small diameter drill, then you can take a medium one, only the places for drilling will need to be marked in advance, and not along the circle itself, but a little inside it.
You need to install a shower tank in the country house on the roof. If its dimensions are smaller than the dimensions of the roof, then it is necessary to weld the attachment point for it. This can be done with a single 60x40 profile, which is welded parallel to the door so that the tank can be placed on top of it and the top crossbar at the back, but it must not protrude beyond them.
Installing a tank on a corrugated shower - a photo of two options of different sizes
Next, along the perimeter of the tank, you need to weld or fasten metal strips, a profile or wooden bars with screws. They should protrude from above, forming sides, and from the bottom of the profile by about 5-7 cm. Thus, it is possible to fix the tank on the summer shower for giving, and also provide an opportunity for attaching the insulation from the bottom of the tank. Instead of a combination of a profile and a steel sheet, you can immediately use the corners with a wide shoulder.
After the container for the country shower is installed, open openings must be closed with corrugated board. It must be installed with a slope so that the water drains without lingering on the roof. You need to fasten the profiled sheet in the same way as on the walls.
In order for the water heated by the sun to retain heat longer, it is better to insulate the tank. If the upper part of the tank and its walls are illuminated by the sun and serve to heat water, then the lower part, inaccessible to the sun's rays, contributes only to heat loss. It is she who should be insulated with the help of any material that does not lose its properties when exposed to moisture. In this case, for another 1-2 hours after sunset, a summer shower made of corrugated board will delight you with pleasant warm water.
Subtleties of tank modernization for more comfortable use of a summer shower
Usually, a shower head for a summer residence is chosen from inexpensive - often even plastic - options, since they can better withstand outdoor conditions. The same applies to the faucet - it is better to take the cheapest Chinese faucet for a country shower with the expectation that it will have to be replaced in a year or two. It is also desirable that soap dishes and shelves for shampoos and other accessories be made of thick plastic and mounted on crossbars.
Finally, let's dwell on a few subtleties:
- In order for the water from the tank to be warmer, it should not be taken from the bottom, but from the surface, since warm water always rises to the top, and cold water sinks to the bottom. This is implemented using a flexible plastic tube, one end of which is attached to the nozzle, and the other to the float.
- You should buy a black tank - it heats up much faster.
- For faster water heating, you can use the roof. Two holes should be cut: 5-10 cm above the bottom of the tank and at the very bottom. Then insert the pipes into them and connect them with a long flexible black tube. This tube must be laid out on the roof of the shower in the form of a coil. Thus, cold water from the bottom will circulate through the tube, heat up and rise to the top.
We build a summer shower for a summer residence with our own hands
Start realizing your idea with careful design. As they say, measure seven times, cut only once. To get started, look at the finished summer shower projects and make your own based on them. Take into account the place allotted for the shower, the availability of building materials and the desired dimensions. Here you need to take into account the volumes of the owners themselves.
Even a beginner can easily draw up a shower project on their own. A simple drawing or a small drawing will help you calculate the amount of building materials, avoid some mistakes and unnecessary costs.
An outdoor shower should be spacious and comfortable. It is necessary to provide a place for clothes and bath accessories - at least 40-60 cm. The height of the shower should be about 2.50 m. The most common dimensions of the interior are 160x100 mm and 190x140 mm. All this must be taken into account when drawing up a drawing or project.
Site Preparation Tips…
Now you need to decide on the location of the summer shower. Naturally, it is better to build it in a well-lit sunny place, away from other buildings. Then the water in the tank will be heated from the heat of the sun throughout the day. But if it is planned to build a heated summer shower, then it is not necessary to adhere to this condition.
The distance from the house should also not be too large so that you can quickly move into the room after water procedures. It would be wise to take care of the water flow in advance. It is better to take it to a septic tank or a septic tank. It is worth paying attention to the convenience of water supply and, if possible, ensure automatic filling of the container. After choosing a place, it is necessary to prepare the site: remove the top layer, level the base for the shower and fill the site with sand.
Rebuilding the frame...
An outdoor shower can be a capital structure, or it can be a light frame structure. Therefore, the main stages of the construction of such souls differ.
The foundation is a reliable basis for a shower cabin, but sometimes it is completely useless
To make the base for the shower correct and for convenience, you need to make elementary markings: for this, pegs are hammered in the outer corners of the site. After that, be sure to check the diagonal and pull the cord.
The dimensions of the foundation depend on the materials that will be used in the construction of the shower. For a brick or cinder block building, a foundation is poured 30 cm deep. If a metal or wooden frame for a summer shower is used as the base, the foundation will be somewhat different. Before pouring, you need to prepare a place for pipes - lay a log or branch of the desired diameter, wrapped with roofing material.
If you use an outdoor shower the family has been planning for more than one year, it is better to make formwork - to raise the level of the foundation above the ground by 10-15 cm, increasing the height of the trench due to boards reinforced with pegs and spacers.
When pouring the base under the shower with concrete, it is extremely important to ensure a flat surface. This is done in the same way as with floor screed, using a level and two guides. The guides are leveled, poured with concrete, the floor base is leveled along the guides. Only a horizontal surface can serve as a reliable basis for further construction. After leveling is done, start laying bricks.
Installing a shower using a frame
A metal frame can be used as the basis for the shower (it is more durable). Building a summer shower will be much more economical if you use wood. But this material is not durable. Taking into account the peculiarities of our climate and the increased humidity due to the operation of the building, it is better to treat it with bio-impregnation to protect it from insects and fungus.
Determining the amount of building materials and the size of the building, proceed to the installation of the frame. The first stage is markup. On the ground, a rectangle is designated, the sides of which will correspond to the parameters of the future structure. In order for the design of the summer shower to be stable, it is necessary to make a pile foundation. Therefore, holes of the required depth are drilled at the corners of the marking (130-170 cm, the depth depends on the length of the pipes). Then the foundation is directly installed from the pipes. It is better to use metal pipes 1.5-2 m long (9-10 cm in diameter) for this, but even railway sleepers can be used. The piles are deepened into the ground so that they protrude 20 cm beyond the soil. The pipes are then filled with concrete. After it hardens, wooden bars should be installed in the pipes. The width of the beam used for the frame should be no more than 10 cm.
This is how we cover the frame with pvc film and get an excellent building
The next installation step is ligation: starting from the top, the entire structure is bolted together. If the calculation is made correctly and all dimensions are observed correctly, the design will turn out to be reliable. This will make it possible to install a large water tank. Its volume should be calculated according to the formula: 40 l × 1 person and not more than 200 l. Heavy capacity construction may simply not withstand. It is desirable that the tank be flat and correspond to the roof area, that is, rest against the supporting structures.
The dressing inside the frame will later serve as lags for the shower floor. Now we connect the beams-bases of the walls with each other with slopes. They should be installed exactly in the thickness of the wall, but not in the overlay.
And here is the option sheathed with plastic slate
Slate sheets, OSB boards, boards, plastic panels and even PVC film can serve as walls for such a shower.
Making communications...
You can build a summer shower with your own hands from the building materials left on the site after the construction of the cottage, but with the summing up of communications, the situation is somewhat different. Here you can not do without financial investments.
- Pipe laying, tank installation. After the construction of the structure, a water pipe is mounted. The outlet for the shower head hose must be made above the level of the head. Otherwise the pressure will be too low. Now you need to put the tank. You can install a purchased plastic tank. Although, in order to save money, a barrel or any other container is usually used. Before the tank rises, you need to make a tap with a thread, and also install a tap with a nozzle. Now the tank or barrel should be securely fastened to the roof. As a rule, water in a tub or tank is heated with the help of sunlight. In order for the tank to heat up faster, it is pre-painted black. It is good to equip a film greenhouse around the tank: cover it with foil to reduce heat transfer from the north side.
A metal shower tank will never go out of style, but now plastic options are increasingly being used.
- Lighting. When wiring wiring for lighting, do not forget about the rules of electrical installation. After all, the humidity in the shower is increased. Of course, you can do without electric lighting if you use the shower only in the summer. A stream of light coming from a small window (above head level) with frosted glass will also be enough. In spring, the days are somewhat shorter, so only daylight will not be enough.
- Ventilation. To improve the circulation of air flows and protect against the appearance of condensate, it is advisable to make a hole in the ceiling and close it with a decorative grille.
- Shower drain. How to build an outdoor shower, make piping, bring lighting - we figured it out. Now let's deal with the drain problem. With an increase in the average daily temperature, the volume of work of summer residents increases significantly and the load on the shower increases. That's just the temperature of the soil does not affect its drainage properties. It is good if it is possible to combine the drain from the shower and the sewer at home.
For quick disposal and good drainage of wastewater, an outdoor shower must be installed on a hill. The walls of the pit should be further strengthened to prevent shedding. Please note that the volume of the drain pit must certainly be at least 2 cubic meters. meters.
A common mistake of novice builders is the location of the septic tank near the wall of the shower stall or under the shower itself. If the volumes of water are large, then the septic tank can be flooded. Over time, drainage works worse, an unpleasant odor appears. With constant heating, not only shrinkage of the soil is possible, but even the destruction of the foundation, which is extremely dangerous. Therefore, the drain of the summer shower must be diverted a few meters from the structure.
The water drain is equipped with a waterproof layer using PVC film, roofing material or hydrostekloizol. Alternatively, they make a concrete screed reinforced with a metal mesh.
It is impossible to use clay as a waterproof layer. After a while, it will wash out and may contaminate the drainage ditch.
We install the pallet
To equip a summer shower with your own hands and provide an outflow of wastewater for it will allow the pallet. This can be a purchased pallet, a stainless steel sheet pallet, or the cheapest option - a wooden pallet. Instead of a pallet, boards are laid, but not tightly, but leaving gaps for water. The grate of boards is pre-sanded well with sandpaper and treated with an antiseptic. For convenience, you can put a rubber mat on top.
The simplest shower tray - from ordinary boards
Waterproofing must be laid between the floor of the summer shower and the tray. For this, ruberoid is used. When installing the pallet, it is necessary to ensure that the slope is formed in the direction of the drain for unhindered water flow. The pallet is screwed to the walls with self-tapping screws.
For more comfortable washing, so that you do not have to stand on a metal pallet, it is advisable to put plastic grates.
Building cladding…
An outdoor shower should harmoniously fit into the overall design of your yard. Any designer will tell you that for outdoor upholstery it is better to use materials that complement the ensemble of adjacent buildings.
Facing the summer shower is not only decorative, it is necessary to protect the walls from the effects of weather. The surface of the walls can be plastered and painted or sheathed with vinyl siding, it all depends on the imagination of the owner, his financial capabilities and the features of the building. For example, a polycarbonate outdoor shower on a frame does not need to be lined at all.
Left - polycarbonate variant; on the right - a shower lined with wood
A good option is to sew up the walls and ceiling with clapboard. If the family will visit the dacha only in the warm season, then it is better to choose PVC film, dense colored (opaque) polyethylene or tarpaulin as the material for facing the summer shower. If the shower cover is removable, it can be easily removed in the pantry for the winter.
How to make an outdoor shower comfortable...
It is very convenient when the building is divided into two zones: a shower room and a dressing room. To prevent water from entering the dressing room area, the floor of this area should be made a few centimeters higher. A small decorative polyethylene curtain will also help protect clothes from splashes.
If you need to use the shower even in a colder period of time, then the walls will have to be insulated. For this, polystyrene foam is used. This material must fill the internal space of the frame. Further, the structure is upholstered with PVC film using a stapler and decorative rails. Already on top of the film produce interior decoration.
If you choose materials to decorate an outdoor shower (there are plenty of photos on the Internet and in catalogs), try to pay attention not only to aesthetic data, but also to practicality. Only moisture-resistant materials are suitable for finishing the inside of the shower cabin.
A modern outdoor shower in the form of an extension to the house - why not an option?
For interior decoration, you can use thin linoleum, plastic panels, oilcloth or wood. If you decide on wood, then do not forget to cover each board separately with hot drying oil, and only then proceed to the finishing work. When facing internal walls, the material is launched under the sides of the pallet.
To improve soil drainage, you can plant a few moisture-loving plants next to the shower. Green spaces absorb water. They not only decorate, but also protect the space around the shower from waterlogging.
Thus, a do-it-yourself summer shower will become an indispensable outbuilding on a personal plot.
In summer, along with beautiful sunny weather and bright colors from plants, we get the need to take a shower more often than usual. In addition, swimming in the fresh air under the streams of fresh water is a real pleasure, especially if you live in an apartment and went out into the countryside. On cold days, when the water is not heated enough from the sun, you can make a heated shower.
As always, the most ingenious is simple. In our case, making a summer shower with your own hands is very simple, however, there are many options for implementing the idea.
Summer shower options for giving
Let's start with materials. It is realistic to assemble the frame from any beams, whether it is a metal-profile pipe, or wooden beams. The walls can be from a wide range of materials, here are examples: sewn up with wood, profiled metal sheets. The best quality and price converge if the summer shower is made of polycarbonate, but you can even use opaque oilcloth or tarpaulin stretched over the frame.
OPTION #1
More expensive, but also more reliable, will be a brick or building block shower. The structure can be made combined and a toilet can be built nearby, as can be seen in the photo. Masonry can be lined with any material available for this.
OPTION #2
To assemble a shower from a profile pipe, welding is most often used, but if you do not have the opportunity to use it, then you can fasten the beams through holes and bolts. In order for the corners to become rigid, a “scarf” plate or a diagonal strip of metal is attached to them. Such frames look good covered with tarpaulin or oilcloth, as can be seen in the photo.
Also, corrugated board can be easily attached to the tighter metal base, which will add reliability to the structure in many moments.
OPTION #3
In building hypermarkets, you can find a ready-made shower for outdoor conditions. But there is an opportunity to save money and make a summer shower with your own hands. The general concept has already been described above - the frame is made of corrugated pipe, and the casing is made of polycarbonate. See photos for original examples.
Such designs are designed for the use of a summer shower storage tank, heating will be carried out due to the flat shape of the tank.
OPTION #4
Another interesting solution would be a combination. For example, three walls can be made of rigid material, sewn up with wood or a sheet of metal or polycarbonate, and the fourth wall can be a screen of opaque film. Unfortunately, it will not work to immerse a water tank on such a design, and therefore water can be let in from a home water supply.
This can simplify the task of providing shower water and heating. Thus, with your own hands, you can make a shower with heated water from a home column or boiler.
OPTION #5
A shower similar to the previous one can be made by attaching it to the house, or rather to its wall. Cover the wall with a material that will not allow water to penetrate the wall and bring the pipe for the watering can to a height of about 230 centimeters. In this case, the frame is not needed at all, but if the open version does not suit you, then you can make a screen or curtain that will move along a curved pipe. The floor can be laid out with tiles or other convenient material, having previously made a drain.
OPTION #6
If possible, you can lay out shower enclosures made of natural stone. This solution will fit perfectly into the landscape design of the entire site. In the variant in the photo, water is supplied from a domestic water supply, since the presence of a barrel can disrupt the aesthetics of the structure. The stone was laid out without mortar, because its flat shape allows the whole structure to stand securely.
OPTION #7
A budget option for a summer shower is the use of materials from tree branches. The frame can be made from thick and even branches, and the walls from bending vines or long branches.
This option is not only quite cheap, but also looks original. The water supply due to the fragility of the frame is carried out from the water supply.
Finished blocks and prices
Factory-made outdoor shower cabins have a lot of variety. First of all, they can be made in different colors, since the colors of polycarbonate and corrugated board can be different. Also, the lining can be made of synthetic fabrics, for example, from a film or tarpaulin. You will also find two configurations: with and without a locker room.
On average, the prices for cabins packed in an awning are 15 thousand rubles. The package includes a tank with a volume of 200 liters. If you want to have a locker room, then the amount will be about 18 thousand or more.
The same options, but with polycarbonate walls and a heated tank, will cost 20 and 25 thousand rubles, respectively.
Of course, these prices are approximate and you can find the exact figures in local hardware stores.
What do you need to build an outdoor shower with your own hands?
Earlier we already talked about the materials from which you can make a shower stall, the frame is best made from a professional pipe; sheathing has a wide range of materials to choose from: profile flooring, polycarbonate, awning and even oilcloth. When choosing a material, consider the tools that you have for installation.
Also consider the durability of materials. For example, polycarbonate will retain its properties longer than wood, but it does not respond well to high temperatures and is more difficult to assemble.
Preparation plan
- Drawing and plan. On average, a shower cabin on the street is made with dimensions of 1000 * 1000 * 2200 millimeters. Such dimensions allow, inside, to feel comfortable for the average person. At the request of the owner, the width and length can be more, but in no case less. Reducing the parameters will create difficulties in accepting the procedure. And this height is due to the fact that the part will take away the lunge of the watering can from the ceiling and the pallet.
In addition, the drawing will be useful if you decide to include a dressing room or other extensions in the building. Such a calculation will help to avoid additional costs and be fully prepared for construction.
- The choice of material for the frame. It is recommended to use metal: a corner or a profile pipe. For the frame, you will need a corner 50 by 50 millimeters or a professional pipe 40 by 20 millimeters. Calculate the footage of the blanks based on the dimensions of the shower: height, perimeter and length. Also consider tank dimensions when designing frame dimensions. The structure must be strong enough to bear the weight of the full container. In addition, such material will last much longer than any tree. Maintenance is minimal - touch up in time to avoid rotting.
If the choice falls on a tree, then in order for it to fulfill its role for a long time, it must be treated with special moisture-resistant agents, and then with paint or varnish. The part of the tree that will be in the ground must be covered with bitumen or resin.
- Cladding material. The list to choose from is very large, but the most practical and most popular are brick, corrugated board or polycarbonate. All these types differ in the way they are assembled and how they need to be maintained: for brickwork: you need a mortar, after which it would be useful to varnish it from the inside; it will be enough to attach the corrugated board to the bolts, having previously drilled holes; polycarbonate is also bolted, but it will already need washers.
- Water source. Equip your shower with a capacity that is sufficient for the use of all those living on the site. On average, 20-30 liters of water are required per person (fortunately, the choice in stores is huge). Since the weather can bring surprises, heating will not be superfluous. It is possible to equip your tank with electric heating using a heating element. If possible, run water supply from the house to the shower, this will allow the use of water heated by a boiler or gas water heater.
- Roof. The important part, because while you are swimming, there will be a rather heavy load on top. In order not to be injured, the material must be rigid. As a roof, it is better to use slate or corrugated board. Polycarbonate under a large load will simply burst.
- Drain. Drainage is best done about two meters from the structure. This will help prevent bad odors. Convenient parameters for the pit will be 500 millimeters in diameter and 1000-1500 deep. The walls and drainage are poured with concrete using formwork.
- Tools and consumables. At a minimum, you will need: a hammer, a saw and a hacksaw, a grinder, a drill. Welding is well suited for fastening a metal frame, and electrodes will be needed for it. You will also need to acquire nails, bolts, drills with a diameter corresponding to the bolts.
You will also need a watering can, a mixer, if hot water supply is provided, adapters, nozzles, pipes and hoses for water supply.
Sequence of operations
To assemble a shower cubicle, you must:
- According to the drawing in the photo, we weld or assemble with bolts, parts of the frame. When assembling, take into account the loss in length.
- We put the halves vertically and connect them using welding seams or the same bolts.
- We pour the screed-concrete and control that the legs plunge 10-15 centimeters into the screed. Using the level, make sure that the structure becomes even. For a brick building, concrete and screed are poured. For draining, a plastic pipe is used, which must be placed in concrete during the pouring process.
- After the concrete has hardened, proceed to the sheathing and installation of plumbing, accessories, as well as the final arrangement of the booth.
Upon completion of the assembly of the frame, it remains only to veneer it with the selected material. Consider the dimensions of the material based on the dimensions of the "skeleton". It is better to arrange a drain using a pallet or, at the stage of concrete formation, make a current by placing a plastic pipe there, which will lead to a sewer pit.
The source of water can be either a plastic tank on the cabin roof or a pipe from a domestic water supply.
As you can see, with just a little involvement of imagination, you can build an outdoor shower by spending a minimum of money and getting a maximum of aesthetics and quality.
It is difficult to overestimate the importance of water in human life. Especially during the period of solar heat. A summer shower is exactly what allows you to cheer up and refresh yourself after gardening exploits.
By the way, not every summer resident has a summer shower on the site. But in vain! After all, you can arrange it simply - in the form of a temporary structure (collapsible) or thoroughly, for annual use.
If you are interested in how to make a summer shower with your own hands, then this article will be a good guide, as it contains the intricacies of choosing building materials for a shower and a frame, a water tank, a drain device, as well as drawings and diagrams for quick and inexpensive construction.
But, about everything step by step and in detail.
When planning the construction of a summer shower in the country, attention should be paid to the choice of materials that will be used in the construction process. An outdoor shower is not only hygiene procedures, it is also a decorative element in the landscape design of the site. Not every dacha thrives on the style of minimalism, and therefore, let's first consider what types of showers are.
Types of summer shower for giving
simple outdoor shower
Structurally, the simplest shower consists of a tank with a tap, which is installed at a height of human growth.
The shower tank can be installed on a tree or a watering hose can be laid on a special stand, and a rubber mat can be thrown on the ground. As a one-time measure, such a shower, of course, will do.
But, if you use it often, then the bathing place will turn into a mud bath, which will make the suburban area look like a swamp, which is certainly not included in our plans.
Frame shower for a summer residence
Outdoor outdoor shower with remote tank
The photo shows an outdoor shower with a tank installed away from the bathing area. This is due to the fact that the shower frame cannot support the weight of the container filled with water.
Closed frame summer shower with tank
This design can already be called a shower house (or a country shower cabin). It was she who received the greatest distribution among the owners of private houses, despite the great complexity and cost of manufacture. Therefore, we will dwell on their device in more detail.
Types of frame showers differ from each other mainly in the material of the exterior. As evidenced by the reviews on the forums, the most popular were:
Its feature is absolute mobility and cheapness. To make such a shower, it is enough to make a collapsible (or solid) frame and a screen from a dense PVC film (or tarpaulin). The portable shower is easily moved from one place to another.
However, it cannot be seriously considered as a long-term building, because. the service life is limited by the quality of the film (polymer roll web). Usually it is changed every season, and even several times a season.
Such a building, as well as all subsequent ones, can already be considered capital (stationary). The best option for using lumber is cladding with a planed board or sheathing the frame with wooden clapboard. Moisture-resistant OSB boards (OSB) or plywood can be used, but it is not advisable due to hygroscopicity.
Wood is good because it is a natural material. But its use requires proper processing and constant care. A wooden shower will last from 5 to 15 years. The use of wood as a finishing material does not exclude the possibility of creating a unique project.
Finished garden showers are shown in the photo. Decking is a profiled sheet of thin metal. For a shower, a painted sheet with a metal thickness of at least 0.45 is suitable. Such a shower is resistant to moisture, but more expensive and deforms with mechanical damage.
It should be borne in mind that in summer the steel structure gets very hot (one might even say it gets hot) and as a result, it is hot and stuffy inside, therefore, good ventilation must be provided. The service life is determined by the sheet warranty period and ranges from 10 to 25 years.
Tip: If you decide to use corrugated board, give preference to a matte finish. Its service life will be up to 25 years.
Polycarbonate shower
Thanks to the ability to use the "greenhouse effect", polycarbonate is becoming one of the most popular and affordable materials for building a shower.
For a summer shower, it is better to use opaque cellular polycarbonate, 8-16 mm thick, a special profile and washers for fastening. A polycarbonate shower will last you from 3 to 10 years (depending on the quality of the sheet).
brick shower
An outdoor shower made of stone or brick can no longer be called a temporary summer shower, since they usually try to connect it to plumbing and electricity. A brick shower house, with a properly organized drain, has been in operation for quite a long time.
Choosing a place for an outdoor shower on the site
To use the shower for a long time and without problems, you need to correctly place it on the site, for this you need to consider:
- distance from home. On the one hand, it is advisable to place the shower closer to the house in order to quickly move to a warm room on a cool evening. But on the other hand, water drainage may not have the best effect on the foundation of adjacent buildings.
Tip: do not place a shower next to a well, this will adversely affect the quality of drinking water.
- water supply. Usually an outdoor shower is equipped with a tank. But the water must somehow be pumped into the tank. In a private house, water is supplied with a hose. In the country - most often by hand.
- draining. By installing a shower on a hill, you can simplify the removal of used water.
- appearance. The thoughtful design of the summer shower will allow you to add a certain touch to the overall decor of the site.
- illumination. Given the fact that it is planned to heat the water in the tank from the sun's rays, it is better to place the shower in a place where the sun will shine longer;
- drafts. You should also consider when choosing a place for a shower. Otherwise, instead of pleasure, users will have a constant cold.
How to make a summer shower with your own hands - instructions
Stage 1 - material and tool
shower frame material
- wood frame. It is advisable to use durable, dry softwood. The thickness of the bar depends on the thickness of the polycarbonate and the weight of the water tank. It would be optimal to use a beam no thinner than 50x50 mm. Using a tree in your work, you need to take care of extending its service life. To do this, it is worth covering the wood with special solutions: an antiseptic, a primer, treat it with protection against a wood bug, etc.;
- frame made of metal corner or pipe. To make vertical racks, a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm is suitable. with a wall thickness of 2 mm. To strengthen the structure, intermediate connections can be installed. A 25mm pipe is suitable for them. with a wall thickness of 1.2 mm.
You can also use a 40x60 corner with a metal thickness of over 2 mm.
Please note that the metal must also be treated with solutions that protect against corrosion.
- aluminum profile frame. Most of the purchased products are made of aluminum profiles. It is not subject to corrosion, but its cost is higher than the price of wood or metal.
- frame made of brick, stone or concrete pillars. A brick, rubble or concrete frame is quite rare in the construction of a polycarbonate shower.
Tip: despite the assurances of the manufacturers, it is better not to use plastic pipes to make the frame of a summer shower. Together with the high windage of the facing material (for example, polycarbonate), such a design will not have sufficient stability.
Finishing material
It has already been mentioned above. It is important that the material is prepared for operation in conditions of high humidity and the influence of atmospheric factors. For example, to purchase a greenhouse film, it lasts at least two years. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic, a primer, a solution that prevents damage to the wood by bark beetles. Polycarbonate must have a protective layer that can withstand exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Decking is a high-quality polymer coating, otherwise, rust will appear after the first season.
Shower tank (capacity)
The choice of tank is influenced by:
- the number of consumers for whom the shower room is designed;
- manufacturing material. The tank can be steel, plastic or aluminum. Containers made of different materials heat up at different rates and, accordingly, cool down differently;
- tank weight. The material of the frame depends on this;
- volume of the tank. On the market there are tanks with a volume of 50 to 220 liters;
- the possibility of heating water in the tank;
- the presence of a central or private water supply, otherwise you will have to fill the barrel manually;
- possibility of transportation. It is possible to buy a large volume tank, but it cannot be disassembled, and therefore the issues of transportation, lifting and installation of the tank should be taken into account in advance;
- tank color. The most common tanks are black or blue. Such colors do not beat off the sun's rays, so that the water in them warms up faster;
- the shape of the tank - round or flat - depends on how the frame for the tank is arranged. But users advise using a flat tank in view of the fact that it warms up faster and more evenly. At the same time, the volume of a flat tank does not exceed 140 liters, and a cylindrical one does not exceed 1000 liters.
Tip: you can make a water tank with your own hands. For this, any clean container with a filler neck under a screw cap will do. Most often, summer residents use a barrel.
- faucet, shower head, hose and fittings (for water supply).
It should be remembered that the water in the summer shower runs by gravity, so wait for the pressure. But, summer residents usually do not worry about this.
- pipe for water drainage. If it is necessary to install it, it is better to give preference to a plastic pipe.
- the tool depends on what material will form the basis of the frame and what will be used to finish the shower.
Stage 2 - summer shower scheme
It is quite possible to make a drawing of a summer shower on your own, but in order to have something to build on, we will give several options for an example.
When developing a shower scheme, decide in advance on the finishing material. Some types, for example, corrugated board or polycarbonate, are characterized by significant windage, and, therefore, it is necessary to provide for the installation of additional jumpers for structural rigidity.
Consider also the volume of the tank, the frame must be able to support the weight of the container filled with water.
Consider the size and location of the door that should open outward.
Stage 3 - design (summer shower dimensions)
Of course, an outdoor shower is not a capital building, but, nevertheless, it is worth taking a responsible approach to its design.
The dimensions of the shower depend on the preferences of users, but usually are:
- width - 1000-1200 mm.
Tip: when designing the width of the shower, consider the width of the door and a gap of 70-100 mm. to install the door frame.
- length - 800-1200 mm.
If the shower also serves as a locker room, then it is better that its dimensions are at least 1000 by 1200. If a locker room is provided, then the shower itself can be reduced to 800x800, and the locker room should be equipped in accordance with its vision of the owner. If a toilet is assumed, then, accordingly, the width is added and the device for a cesspool or a sewer supply is taken into account.
- height from 2000 mm. This setting is not standard because it depends on:
- height of the tallest user with arms outstretched;
- location of the water tank. Often it is installed directly under the shower ceiling;
- the presence / absence of a tray in the shower.
- configuration. The outdoor shower has a predominantly square shape. However, polycarbonate allows you to make a round shower. And the developer's imagination can generally go beyond the standards and build an unusual and beautiful summer shower from the usual (improvised) materials.
Tip: when creating a summer shower project, select its dimensions taking into account the consumption of material, especially those with standard sizes. For example, corrugated board or polycarbonate. It will be a shame if 100 mm is not enough, or if half remains unused, and they saved on the dimensions of the shower room.
Stage 4 - shower frame and water drainage
The above drawings show that the shower frame is a simple design.
Regardless of the material of the frame, the manufacturing process will be approximately the same. But, nevertheless, there are several ways to make and install the frame.
Tip: a shower with a dressing room (or with a toilet) requires the installation of additional vertical racks due to the fact that it is larger than a shower without a dressing room.
Option 1. Primitive shower frame
Weld the structure and fix it in the ground using metal rods. More than a meter long rods bent in half are driven through the lower edge of the frame into the ground. This option has not found distribution among users due to the fact that it does not make it possible to organize drainage. The water used in the shower will wash away the rods and soon the frame can be overthrown even by a small wind.
Option 2. Frame for a shower on a columnar foundation
First you need to install vertical racks. To do this, with the help of a drill, a layer of soil 500-800 mm deep is removed. Pour a sand-gravel pillow at the bottom of the pits, install racks treated with solutions and pour them with concrete. In this case, the racks are set strictly according to the level.
Tip: it is better to tar wooden racks or wrap with a layer of roofing material. So the tree will be less prone to decay.
After the concrete has hardened, horizontal lintels are fixed to the vertical racks (by welding or hardware for a metal frame, nails or special brackets for a wooden one), which will hold the tank, as well as the lower lintels. Their purpose is to hold the bottom edge of polycarbonate or sheet metal sheets and take on part of the weight of the entire frame.
Tip: when making the frame, you need to provide additional horizontal racks for installing the door.
The rigidity of the structure will give oblique additional jumpers.
To ensure the drainage of used water, it is necessary to install a tray for an outdoor shower. To do this, you need to remove the soil from the surface with an area equal to the area of \u200b\u200bthe shower plus 100 mm. The excavation depth will be 300-350 mm. Fill the bottom with a layer of gravel with sand. The optimal layer height is 150-200 mm. Inside the frame we make a dressing, which serves as the basis for the floor. Next, you can install a pallet or make a slatted floor.
To make a slatted floor, you need to lay logs on horizontal lintels, and on them - boards 50-100 mm wide. The size of the gap depends on the width of the board and usually ranges from 5 mm (for a beam of 30x30 mm) to 20 mm (for a board with a width of 10 mm).
Tip: the gap should ensure a quick outflow of water and exclude the possibility of injury to the legs.
Attention: in cool weather, the air flow from below (from under the floor) will make showering not very comfortable.
Option 3. Shower frame on the foundation
For these purposes, it is better and easier to pour the foundation in the form of a monolithic slab. To understand how to make a foundation for a shower, you need to decide where the used water will go. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the drain pit.
Foundation for a summer shower
It is necessary to remove the soil from a surface equal to the area of \u200b\u200bthe shower plus 100 mm. The depth of excavation will be 300-350 mm. Fill the bottom of the pit with a layer of gravel and sand. The optimal height of the sand and gravel cushion is 150-200 mm. Pack well and pour over with water. Then fill this pillow with a concrete solution, taking care of arranging the water flow in advance. To do this, a polymer pipe must be embedded in a concrete slab, and the foundation itself must be poured at an angle. So that the water flows by gravity into the pipe. And then it went either into the ground (with a low frequency of use of the shower by several users) or into a special pit (in the event that a lot of people use the shower). The second option to ensure the drainage of water will be to fill the foundation at an angle to the surface and install drainage at the place where the water drains.
After all the work has been completed, all metal and wooden parts of the frame are once again treated with a primer or paint.
Tip: the paint should be suitable for use in high humidity conditions.
User opinions. As for pouring the foundation, here the opinions of users differ. Some believe that a polycarbonate shower, as a lightweight structure, does not need a foundation, it is enough just to deepen the vertical racks of the frame and fill it with gravel. And some are convinced that the foundation will make the shower more reliable. In any case, it will not interfere, the only thing is that it will entail slightly higher construction costs.
Stage 5 - the floor for the summer shower
The device of the floor provides for the construction of wooden flooring or the installation of a pallet.
Tip: A car mat laid on a concrete floor is suitable as a one-time measure.
Stage 6 - installation of a water tank
The tank is installed on a place previously prepared for it in the frame and attached to it.
Tip: you can speed up the heating of water in the tank if you cover it with a film or lay a polycarbonate sheet on top.
Stage 7 - wiring
Electricity supply and electrical wiring, installation of heating elements (heating tank - heating element).
Finally, internal and external decoration is carried out.
Conclusion
Thanks to this step-by-step instruction, now you know how to build a summer shower for a summer house with your own hands. Enjoy the coolness of the water in the midst of a hot summer.
