Do-it-yourself roof with an attic. Do-it-yourself mansard roof: device and construction technology. Step-by-step description of the process

If you have made such a decision how to build an attic - it will be the right one. Before building an attic in an existing house, you first need to decide on its shape, and whether the roof will be completely converted into an attic floor or not.
After all, the construction of the attic is considered not only more economical, but also a process that will require much less labor in comparison with the construction of the next floor. It is these facts that make the construction of the attic very popular. Projects of country houses with an attic, as a rule, have a special or, as the builders call it, a "broken" roof, as it makes it possible to make the most of the usable area.

Particular attention in solving such an issue as building an attic must be paid to the quality of the roof. Since it should not only have an aesthetic appearance, but also have excellent thermal insulation, and also have good waterproofing. The best thermal insulation material for roofing is either slate or ceramic tiles, but in no case do not use metal tiles, as they tend to get very hot in the sun. In this case, how to build an attic with your own hands? At the initial stage of building construction, it is possible to make calculations of the supporting structure with maximum accuracy.

It should be borne in mind that the installation of rafters must be done at an angle (from 30 to 60 °), since an increase in the degree of inclination leads to a decrease in the useful area of ​​​​the attic.
To solve the problem, you can insulate the attic from the inside using mineral wool.

A residential attic requires a large layer of insulation. The material must comply with fire safety requirements and be non-toxic. Mineral wool is one of the most suitable options.

Varieties of material

The main types of mineral wool are basalt wool and glass wool. Each has its own properties, pros and cons.
Basalt wool

Basalt wool is produced from gabbro-basalt rock. Carbonate rocks are specially added to it, which allows you to adjust the acidity module. Material of greater acidity is more resistant to moisture, more durable. The addition of binders to basalt wool: bituminous, synthetic, composite, bentonite clays - holds the fibers together, helps to give the desired shape.

glass wool

Glass wool is a mineral material, for the manufacture of which raw materials used in the production of glass are used, as well as waste, broken glass.

The properties of glass wool are different from those of basalt, its thickness is 3–15 microns, and its length is several times greater than that of basalt. Therefore, glass wool slabs are more elastic, have greater strength, and are resistant to vibrations. Glass wool is fire resistant, withstands up to 450 °C.

Despite all the advantages of glass wool, there is one significant drawback that reduces the popularity of its use. When laying this material, a lot of small particles that are harmful to health are formed. Therefore, the installation is carried out in special clothes, shoes, a protective mask. It will not work to clean them after work, you will need to throw them away.

Nuances of isolation

When insulating the roof, it is better to use cellulose wool, it provides better moisture conductivity, and does not allow moist air to accumulate under the roof.

The main difficulties of insulation are manifested when working on the slopes of the roof, which has a truss structure.

Here it is necessary to use dense cotton wool, which can be securely placed between the rafters. It should be light and elastic.

The main advantages of mineral wool are its incombustibility, soundproofing, good thermal insulation performance, vapor permeability, high environmental friendliness, and relatively affordable price. It is produced in plates, mats, cylinders, there are options with foil coating.

If the size of the insulation is greater than the distance between the rafters, it is cut into the necessary pieces, adding a few centimeters for a tight fit.

This method is well suited for warming attics, residential premises located directly under the roof. The disadvantage can be considered a decrease in internal dimensions due to a layer of wool, drywall and additional finishes.

Thermal insulation methods

Depending on which structural element of the building is insulated, there are 2 ways to insulate the roof from the inside.

Thermal insulation of the floor

The first option is floor insulation. The method is inexpensive and very easy to implement. It consists in laying wool on concrete base slabs or, in the case of a wooden floor, between structural elements. Any kind of mineral wool will do, even soft and granular. Laying is simple, it is not required to bypass the rafters, as when insulating roof slopes, you can easily fill all the gaps and cracks.

Thermal protection of slopes

The second option is the insulation of the roof slopes. If the room in the attic is not in use, then this option is not economically viable. The consumption of materials increases significantly, it takes more time due to bypassing the rafters and additional fastening of the mineral wool.

Insulation of slopes can be done in two ways: over open rafters or between them. In the first option, wooden beams remain visible indoors and have an additional decorative function.

Sequence of work

Regardless of which method of mineral wool insulation is used, the general algorithm of actions is as follows: surface preparation, waterproofing, insulation installation, vapor barrier laying, sheathing.

Preparatory activities

Before starting work on thermal insulation, the surface to be insulated must be prepared. The structure is inspected, if necessary, the identified defects are eliminated, cleaned of dirt and debris. The preparatory work can also include the calculation of the amount of material.

The thickness of the insulation layer should be at least 15–20 cm, so when choosing wool of a smaller thickness, it will need to be laid in two layers.

Waterproofing

To protect the roof from moisture, waterproofing is installed on the surface to be insulated. It is overlapped, fixed with a stapler and gluing the joints with adhesive tape.

It is important to install the waterproofing membrane so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the insulation, and the material completely covers the entire rafter system and goes a little on the walls.

A batten sheathing is then nailed over the insulation to the rafters to secure the material and provide a ventilation gap. All wooden structural elements are best treated with a special antiseptic.

Insulation laying

After installing the waterproofing, you can proceed with the installation of insulation. To do this, mineral wool is cut into pieces about 5 cm wider than the distance between the rafters. Then, after laying, the material will straighten out and better fill the space. Installation of mineral wool should be carried out in such a way that the material fits as tightly as possible to the beams and there are no gaps left.

Arrangement of vapor barrier

After laying the insulation, it is necessary to protect it from water vapor coming from inside the room. If this is not done, the mineral wool will gradually get wet and lose its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, a vapor barrier is installed on top of the insulation. As a vapor barrier, special foil materials, polyethylene films or roofing material are used.

For tightness, the vapor barrier is laid with overlapping layers, the seams are glued. It is important to install foil vapor barriers with the metallized side inside the attic. The structure is fixed with wooden slats, on which the sheathing (lining or drywall) is subsequently attached.

Roof insulation with mineral wool is one of the most affordable ways to equip a warm and cozy attic. The main thing is to strictly follow the technology. And then everything will work out.

Try to pay special attention to the insulation of the attic roof. If the roof is not insulated, do not expect heat in the attic. A roof is a roof covering. A mansard roof is a “roofing pie” consisting of several layers: a vapor barrier layer from the inside, a waterproofing layer from the outside, a heater between them and an air gap.

Various materials are used as insulation. The characteristics of the materials used depend on several factors: the functional purpose of the room, the level of humidity, critical temperatures, loads, and so on. Non-combustible, basalt materials are the best option.

Various materials are used as insulation for the attic from the inside. The most popular and simple - mineral wool

Styrofoam is not recommended. He is hot. Possesses poor vapor conductivity. Mineral wool is perfect. It is pressed into a plate. On the inside, there is a vapor barrier layer. From the outside - waterproofing (special layer).

Now it has become quite popular to use polyurethane foam spraying to insulate the attic from the inside. This method is also quite economical and very effective.

If the attic is made from an old attic, then, as a rule, the rafters are retained. The load is minimized by using low-density insulation for this, as they are much lighter. The disadvantage is that they are blown by the wind. Additionally, windproof, vapor-permeable material is laid.

Approach the installation of insulation with due attention. Do not forget about the presence of sufficient ventilation space between the roofing and the insulation layer.

The attic is warm in winter and cool in summer only when all the work on the insulation of the walls and roof is done correctly. Do not ignore these rules and your budget will get a tangible effect.

The attic is a fashionable architectural element. F. Mansara (French architect) three centuries ago was the first to use the attic space not only for household purposes, but also for housing.

Now in civil and industrial construction, it is quite widely in demand. In individual construction, the attic is experiencing a real boom. It is equipped both during the construction of a new house, and during the repair of attics (roofs).

The house takes on an expressive look, and the attic space is used functionally and efficiently. The area occupied by the attic is decent. An additional room for a good relaxation room (billiard room) or a wonderful summer bedroom. By making it warm and dry, it will be habitable.

A well-insulated and well-made attic can be an excellent rest and work room.

How to properly insulate the attic from the inside? A pre-designed project is required. It will allow you to prepare well, to foresee all the nuances. A competent approach to attic insulation and the mandatory use of high-quality materials will help to avoid mistakes that can play a very bad role over time.

In a private house, as a rule, there are large heat losses. Basically, this happens through the ceiling and upper floors. The processes of wetting (drying) of the insulation under the roof degrade its quality. Violation of the microclimate is often the cause of the cold inside the house. This occurs mainly due to poor-quality construction work associated with the attic.

It is recommended to insulate the attic not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Warming is a technically rather complicated process. The impressive area of ​​​​the attic floor, its maximum contact with the external environment, the complexity of the design - requires certain knowledge and skills from the one who will deal with its insulation.

Attic structures are distinguished by the fact that they can be constructed from a wide variety of materials, for example, wood, metal, reinforced concrete. There are no restrictions here, it is only necessary to ensure stability and proper insulation. The ceilings in the rooms can also be very different: inclined, flat with one inclined wall, formed by two slopes converging at an acute angle. All this and much more has made the attic so popular for more than four hundred years.

The main advantages of such a roof are as follows:

1. The possibility of an attic add-on, that is, the use of the infrastructure of an already standing building. At the same time, there is no need to completely disassemble the entire roof, which allows significant savings during the work. This is an additional floor that can be used for its intended purpose.

2. The living area of ​​the house is increased due to the reconstruction of the unused attic space. This allows you to add a full-fledged second floor at a relatively low cost.

3. In places with fairly dense buildings, the attic second floor is the best way out.

4. The external appearance of the building is improved, the structure acquires a complete, integral look.

5. Attics can be attached not only to one level. If necessary and in compliance with all the rules and requirements, it is possible to build a two-story attic, which will decorate any building, adding additional living space to it.

6. During the construction of the attic, heat losses through the roof of the house are much reduced. In addition, this results in lower heating costs during the winter months.

7. The construction of attics is possible even in a residential building without the need to resettle residents. For this, it is not necessary to use heavy construction equipment, all work is carried out directly on the roof of the building in the shortest possible time. A new floor can be built almost without problems and costs.

But when building an attic, there are also disadvantages, like any design. It is worth noting such shortcomings as:

1. When arranging such a room, some of the usable area is lost.

2. Sloped and sloping ceilings greatly reduce the height of the walls, the ceilings in the attic are usually low, do not exceed 2.4 meters.

3. Windows in many cases can only be located in the ceiling, which is not always convenient.

4. Roof structures due to lack of ventilation begin to degrade quickly. Usually their service life is about three times less than with a cold attic.

5. Large amounts of snow often accumulate on skylights in winter, which reduces the level of already insufficient lighting.
Varieties of designs

When deciding how to make an attic, you must first decide what type of truss system will be used. A characteristic feature of the attic design is its broken, rather steep configurations, but we must not forget that this is not an aesthetic function, but a purely practical one. Such broken forms provide:

correct transfer of all loads to load-bearing walls;

allow you to effectively protect the entire structure from precipitation;

· give stability to such negative phenomena as temperature extremes, showers, snowfall, the formation of a large amount of ice.

The simplest form of a residential attic is a triangle, the most complex is with a break. All horizontal logs and vertical racks are recommended to be made of wooden thin beams.

Among the used truss systems for the attic floor, the most commonly used are:

1. Hanging type rafters. They rest on the walls, creating a horizontal load. If you decide to make an attic second floor using this type of truss system, then you need to take into account the design features. To connect the beams, intermediate supports are not used here, only special puffs made of metal or wood.

2. An inclined type of truss system is recommended for small cottages in which the load-bearing wall is located in the center or intermediate supports are available. The rafters rest on the outer walls, the middle part of the structure - on the inner wall. Such a simple system can only be used for those houses in which the distance between free-standing load-bearing walls is not more than six and a half meters.

3. Hanging and inclined rafters can be in the form of right triangles, which have an emphasis behind the bearing wall. In this case, the Mauerlat does not need to be erected; ordinary beams are taken for the rafters. Struts are required, all racks cut into the floor beams, the rafters are attached with anchors.
Construction stages

So how to properly assemble the attic structure? The sequence of all work should be strictly observed, which will allow you to build a solid, reliable attic. Be sure to correctly determine all loads, which only experienced designers can do.

The construction of the attic provides for such work as:

1. Dismantling of the old roof. In this case, it is not necessary to completely disassemble the overlap. Unless it is foreseen by the project.

2. If necessary, the floor structures are strengthened. This is done so that the second floor (mansard) does not give unnecessary loads. If necessary, an additional layer of waterproofing is laid at this stage.

3. The construction of the truss system, the insulation of the attic itself.

4. Installation of windows.

5. Interior and exterior decoration of the building.

For the construction of the attic, it is recommended to use wooden beams that have a cross section of fifty by one hundred and fifty centimeters. At the same time, the following sequence of work is observed: first, the frame of the future structure is made, after which the support beams and rafters are strengthened. After the installation of stepped bevels, waterproofing work is carried out, insulation is laid. Now you can strengthen the crate and lay the roofing material. Finishing work is carried out last, after all windows are installed.

The attic second floor must be insulated to ensure the safety of the structure and the comfort of living conditions. In order for such a process to become effective, it is necessary to observe the construction of a multilayer "pie", which includes:

· internal finishing material on the ceiling of the attic room: moisture-resistant plywood, drywall, etc.;
vapor barrier membrane

insulation (usually mineral wool in rolls or slabs);

installation of waterproofing

installation of roofing (tiles, corrugated board, etc.).

The insulation layer should be two hundred and fifty - three hundred millimeters, often a special frame is made for its installation, which is attached perpendicular to the rafter system. When laying, it is impossible to allow gaps and cavities to remain between the insulation plates, as this will lead to significant heat losses, low thermal insulation efficiency.

The attic is not only beautiful, but also a very functional architectural element that is able to fulfill the numerous tasks assigned to it. This is a great place to live. Here you can equip a nursery, a playroom or a large gym.

The attic construction technology consists in the high-quality and consistent performance of such works:

1. Development of a project for the construction of an attic floor or its refurbishment.

2. Dismantling of old roof structures.

3. Strengthening the wall structures of the upper floor.

4. Device for waterproofing and thermal insulation of ceilings.

5. Construction of the end walls of the attic room.

6. Mansard roof erection, its insulation and finishing.

7. Installation of attic windows.

8. Arrangement of a new living space.

To work, you will need to purchase materials and tools. It is usually necessary to have wall panels (or other material) for sheathing the end walls of the attic space, thermal insulation materials for walls and pitched roofs, roofing materials, beams for roof construction, finishing materials, etc.

After preparing everything that is required for construction, project development, you can begin the main work. First you need to make a frame for the roof. Rafters can be made from beams measuring 50x150 cm. The structure must be well fixed, slings, support blocks must be installed, attic walls erected and rafters installed. The truss structure must be mounted securely and accurately. After that, stepped bevels of the walls, partitions of the attic room are installed, and work is carried out on the insulation and waterproofing of the attic. Next, you should build a crate for the attic roof, lay a heat insulator on it, strengthen it and then finish the roof with roofing material. After that, the installation of doors and windows, interior decoration and arrangement of the premises.

Attic roof

In order to understand how to make the roof in the attic correctly, knowledge about the features of such a room will not be superfluous. Leaks in the roof and other roof defects will affect the entire building to a much greater extent than the same defects in an ordinary attic roof. In this case, water will flow into the living room, which is likely to lead to the repair of the premises.

The main feature of the mansard roof is that it is exposed to moisture both from the outside and from above (snow, rain, etc.) and from below (the formation of condensate from the air moisture of the living quarters of the lower floors). To eliminate this problem, the attic construction technology provides for the installation of a special vapor barrier layer that prevents the penetration of moist and warm air from living rooms to the tiles.

It is also necessary to make waterproofing under the roofing material and ensure sufficient ventilation of the roof of the attic space. As a roofing, you can use soft bituminous tiles or metal tiles.

Warming and arrangement of the attic

In view of the fact that the attic is usually used as a living space, great importance is attached to its thermal insulation. High-quality insulation of the attic roof ensures the creation of a comfortable microclimate in such a room and other rooms of the house, effective heat preservation and a long service life of the entire building. There are several ways to insulate the attic. Warming outside means the general warming of the whole house.

The optimal and most effective way is additional internal insulation, which involves the use of a multi-layer heat-insulating structure consisting of the following layers:

First layer (internal) - finishing material, such as drywall sheets, plywood and other materials that form the ceiling of the attic room

The second layer is a vapor barrier film

The third layer is a porous heat-insulating material (mineral wool, etc.)

The fourth layer is a waterproofing material laid with the formation of a small gap and the possibility of a simple withdrawal of water to the outside

· The fifth layer is roofing (metal tiles, soft roofing, etc.).

Advice from the master!

In addition to the thermal insulation of the attic roof, it is also necessary to insulate its walls and floor. The arrangement of the premises in the attic includes the implementation of such works as the installation of skylights, internal partitions, doors, as well as decorative trim.

Installing pitched skylights is the best solution for an attic. Glazing can occupy a significant area of ​​​​the attic surface, at least - 12.5%. The glasses in such windows are special: they do not break when pressed hard or hit, but crumble into granules that do not have sharp and cutting surfaces.

The specificity of the attic rooms allows you to equip them in a special way, arrange them in an unusual and original way. Many designers recommend using translucent plastic partitions or partitions decorated with translucent fabrics for zoning these rooms. When choosing a shade for wall decoration, it is recommended to give preference to light colors that will make the interior light and pleasant. It is not recommended to decorate roof windows with curtains, but it is better to choose light-colored blinds.

Having learned how to build an attic yourself, equip it, create a comfortable, cozy and unusual room, you can try to build the top floor at home. This is a great way to make your home unique and individual, increase its usable area and equip additional living space.


It should also be noted that the attic should be at least 3 meters wide, and the height in the center of the room should be at least 2.2 m. But in this case, how to build an attic that was not originally planned? There are always additional questions such as, for example, the device of the stairs. You can place a ladder in the area of ​​​​the attic hatch, which will simplify construction, and a spiral staircase will also make it possible to save space. In order to prevent the wood from rotting and being damaged by pests, all wooden elements of the roof must be treated with an antiseptic.


To increase fire resistance, it is necessary to impregnate with flame retardants (special wood flame retardants). Also, when deciding how to build an attic, it is necessary to take into account that the attic and attic differ primarily in climatic conditions. The attic is a less ventilated room, which causes condensation to form on the insulation. Therefore, it is necessary to leave a space between the insulation and the roof (at least 50 mm), and another layer of vapor barrier should be laid on the insulation from the inside. When carrying out thermal insulation work, one should also not forget about the insulation of walls, which are thinner in attic structures. The layer of their thermal insulation must have a thickness of at least (250-300 mm). Self-construction of the attic floor is possible, but for this it is necessary to carefully plan the implementation of all work and thoroughly observe the existing technology.
Of course, it would be much easier not to disassemble it, but to reinforce the ceiling over the premises of the house. As load-bearing structures, you can use bars, or a channel.

After the ceiling is reinforced, you need to determine the size of the attic rooms, their height at the walls should not be lower than 1.5 m, and in the middle part it should be a standard height of 2.5 m, or even more. After that, a guide profile (PN) is attached to the floor, for drywall, and above it, the same profile to the rafters. Marking, which is done with a plumb line, tape measure, or a strong cord. Then, the rack profile (PS) is installed in the guide profiles, the pitch of which should be 600 mm. On inclined ceiling surfaces, the metal profile can be mounted horizontally. After that, when the layout of the rooms is clearly visible, several skylights can be installed on the roof so that the rooms are well lit with natural light. In addition, it will be necessary to make an opening in the ceiling for the installation of stairs to the attic. The least space on the ground floor will be occupied by a single-flight staircase, with goose step steps.


After that, from the outside, the frame of the attic partitions can be sheathed with waterproof drywall, and then electrical wiring can be laid inside the frame to connect switches and sockets. Further, mineral wool slabs, 100 mm thick, or, in extreme cases, 50 mm, are placed in the frame. From the inside, they are closed with a vapor barrier, and the inner lining of waterproof drywall is attached, holes are made in it for the installation of sockets and switches, and wires are brought out into them for connection. Then the ceiling and inclined surfaces are hemmed, which are also insulated with a mineral wool board.

The attic is the room in your house that can carry the most diverse functional load: from a workshop and an office, to a bedroom and a living room. The arrangement of the attic will cost you much less than a full-fledged second floor. And the technology of its construction is more accessible for execution.
In this article, we will consider the types of attics, as well as the stages of building an attic with your own hands.

The attic is a room bounded from below by an interfloor overlap, and from above and on the sides by roof slopes. Depending on the shape of the attic slopes, there can be:

  • single-level symmetrical with a gable roof (a, b);
  • single-level symmetrical with a sloping roof (c);
  • single-level asymmetric (d);
  • two-level asymmetric (d).

Roof truss structures

If it is not there, or the distance of the wall from the edge of the attic is more than 7 m, hanging-type rafters are mounted. They are made up of the upper part of the roof slope, and below are limited by the ceiling beams of the attic.
Installation of the truss system is the first stage in the construction of the attic. Therefore, before starting its installation, it is necessary to calculate and take into account all the subtleties of this construction. For example, the possibility of arranging an attic floor instead of an existing attic space will depend on the quality of the underlying surface, on the type of foundation and its bearing capacity, as well as on the condition of the entire building as a whole.

However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the terminology presented on the construction drawings.

Stages of construction of the truss frame

First, the upper bar is laid, which can be a section of 0.1x0.1 m, and preferably 0.15x0.15 m. It is attached to the racks with special nails, iron staples or self-tapping screws. This bar is a rafter frame.

  1. We make installation of Mauerlat. It is this element that is the "foundation" of the entire roof. It prevents the roof from tipping over in strong gusty winds, and also shifts the load from the attic to the load-bearing walls of the house. For mounting the power plate, use: boards (thickness not less than 5 cm) and bars (with a minimum section of 10x15 cm). The bars are laid out along the perimeter of the entire roof and attached to the wall with long self-tapping screws or metal brackets (or better, both at the same time).
    Another method of attaching the Mauerlat to the wall will not be superfluous - using a thick wire, which is pre-mounted in the top row of the brickwork of the wall. Remember that the stronger you tie the Mauerlat and the wall, the stronger the entire attic structure will be. And one more thing: under the Mauerlat bars, it is necessary to lay a layer of a waterproofing agent, and treat the boards or bars themselves with an antiseptic and waterproofing impregnation.
  2. , which are most often purchased ready-made (although you can make them yourself if you wish). Before mounting these structural elements, it is necessary to put marks on the Mauerlat that will indicate the place where the legs are attached (the accepted distance between the legs is 15 cm). Labeling will simplify and speed up the implementation of this step.
  3. We lay the edge rafters to the pediment. Particular attention should be paid to the fact that the edge of the front and the top of the rafters should be in one line. In addition, pay attention to the quality of the board used under the rafters: it should be without any special defects (normally no more than 3 flaws per 1 m), thickness - about 4 cm, width - about 15 cm. After the edge rafters are installed, they are connected by a level rope, along which all other rafter legs are mounted.
  4. It's time to bring all the straps together. This is done along the top point of all rafters using a run. Then the ridge beam is installed, which, in principle, is not an obligatory element of the frame (it is erected when the roof is longer than 7 m).
  5. Do not forget that at the stage of erecting the truss structure, you need to lay window frames under the roof windows.
  6. If the roof is lower than 7 m, then extensions are mounted in the upper part of the rafters, which perform a dual function: they serve as ceiling beams for the future attic, strengthen the frame of the attic roof.

The rafter system is ready. It remains only to make the crate, fix the hydro-barrier material, lay a layer of insulation material, as well as roofing. Mansard roof is ready. We proceed to the internal work, which we will discuss below.

The importance of insulating mansard roofs is undeniable, because. the walls of the attic room are united with the mansard roof, or as close as possible to it. Because of this, the attic room freezes faster in winter, and heats up significantly in summer.

Mineral wool is laid in the space between the rafters. In this regard, the base sheets of insulation are cut to the size of the gaps between the rafters. Sheets of mineral wool are laid on a pre-laid layer of vapor barrier, and a layer of hydro vapor barrier is attached on top of the sheets. In this multilayer structure, air gaps are formed, located between the layers of a vapor barrier-mineral wool and mineral wool - a hydro vapor barrier. These air channels will subsequently contribute to the ventilation of the entire structure, and therefore they must be brought open in the ridge area. This will improve the quality of the insulation.

When insulating the attic, remember that the microclimate of the attic room and the comfort of your stay there will depend on the quality of insulation and the availability of ventilation.

The attic allows you to significantly expand the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. At the same time, the arrangement of the roofing floor can be performed even in an already finished building. At the same time, financial costs will be relatively small, because the main necessary structures will already be present, and you can handle all the necessary measures on your own.

First of all, you must make sure that the base of the house can withstand the additional load from the attic floor. If necessary, the foundation must be strengthened or try to transfer new loads to a separate foundation. At this stage, you may need the help of professionals.

Decide on the design of the attic. The sub-roof floor can have a variety of shapes. At the same time, the interior space of the room is given by the features of the roof structure.

The attic roof must be designed in a special way. You will have to get rid of the old rafters and related materials, replacing them with a new system designed to take into account the upcoming loads, angle of inclination and other important design features.

Thus, the truss structure must be calculated and designed in a separate order, specifically for your attic floor.

The most optimal option for the roof structure for the attic floor is a broken gable roof. A gable roof will exert a much more significant load on the walls compared to a shed system. However, you will not find a more convenient roof option for the attic floor.

At the same time, the broken roof will “eat up” the least amount of free space in the attic compared to all other types of roofs.

It is important that the gable roof has a sufficient number of bearing supports. Usually, for the arrangement of such a roof, layered rafters are used. At the same time, the elements of the truss system must be supported by load-bearing walls that can normally withstand the incoming vertical and horizontal loads.

Before starting construction, decide what area the under-roof floor should have, whether you will insulate it and whether it is necessary to equip heating in the attic.

In accordance with your own preferences, draw up (order, find in open sources) an attic project with sketches, drawings, calculations and explanations.

The design documentation should reflect the following important features of the attic:

  • the presence of additional partitions and load-bearing walls;
  • number of window openings;
  • features of the internal structure of the roof;
  • type of roofing material, etc.

After that, calculate the required amount of materials for arranging the attic. It is best to make an attic using the same materials from which the building itself is built (brick, blocks, etc.).

If the attic is planned to be used exclusively for seasonal living, you can make it from more budget materials. Usually in such situations, wood is used. This material goes well with most existing building materials and is perfect for arranging an attic.

Proceed to the arrangement of a wooden frame - the foundation of the roof. Choose suitable places to place the blocks needed for arranging partitions.

First you will need to lay out the exterior and gable walls. Proceed with the arrangement of the roof of the attic only after the construction of the house itself is completed.

To assemble the frame, use a high-quality wooden beam measuring 15x5 cm. In the process of performing each stage of work, be guided by the sketches and drawings you have. It is impossible to explain everything in words alone.

First step

Reinforce the existing structure with slings. To strengthen the runs, use special support blocks in the form of the letter U. Blocks are installed and filled with cement mortar. Such hardening will prevent further cracking of the walls.

Second step

Build the capital gable walls and proceed to the construction of the attic. After installing all the necessary walls, proceed with the installation of the elements of the truss system.

Third step

Install the rafters in accordance with the project documentation and make sure that the installed system is reliable.

First you need to install the runs, and after that fix the rafters. First you need to lay out the stepped wall bevels, and then equip the partitions of the attic floor. Be sure to check the evenness of the arrangement of the elements of the truss system.

Fourth step

Align the bevels of the gable walls with a band saw.

Fifth step

Nail the battens to the rafters for the installation of thermal insulation material. Fix the waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier, and then stuff another layer of boards on top of the waterproofed thermal insulation.

sixth step

Lay the selected finish on the crate. It is better that the finishing roofing material is as reliable and of high quality as possible, so that the attic is cozy, warm and safe.

After completing the work on the arrangement of the walls and roof of the attic, proceed to the insulation and internal arrangement of the under-roof space.

To insulate the attic, you can use a variety of materials. For example, mineral wool insulation, polystyrene foam, all kinds of blocks, etc. are very well suited to perform such work. One of the most preferred thermal insulation materials is fiberboard. It is on the example of this material that the procedure for warming the attic room will be considered.

In the case of using plates with a thickness of 1.2 cm, the thermal insulation characteristics of such insulation will be similar to the properties of a wall laid out in brick, or a finish made of boards with a thickness of about 5 cm.

In addition, the plates have good sound insulation performance. Factory treatment with antiseptic preparations makes the material resistant to adverse external factors, and the relatively low price allows almost everyone to buy such plates.

The most suitable material for attic insulation is fiberboard

On the one hand, the plates have a slightly corrugated texture, and on the other they are smooth. To cut the plates, you can use an ordinary sharp knife. The material is not particularly afraid of temperature and humidity changes. At the same time, work on thermal insulation of surfaces using fiberboard will not take much effort and time.

In conclusion, on the smooth side of the fiberboard (smooth is the front one), you can glue the wallpaper or perform another finish at your discretion.

Walls

Traditionally, thermal insulation work begins with wall insulation. It is enough to fix the plates with nails. Previously, duralumin plates should be placed under the caps of the fasteners. Place the nails themselves in a checkerboard pattern.

If the walls are not made of wood, you may need to use other fasteners. Focus on the situation.

For fixing plates to plastered surfaces, you can also use PVA glue or various types of adhesive mastics.

Ceiling

At the stage of ceiling sheathing, try to enlist the support of at least one assistant - the plates are quite large and it is not very convenient to mount them alone.

Sheathing is carried out according to an extremely simple scheme: the plate is carefully applied to the attachment point and fixed using T-supports made of boards, nails and duralumin plates. Wear safety goggles at this stage.

The floor can be insulated using two methods.

In accordance with the first method, first the surface is covered with a double layer of roofing material, after which the fiberboard is fixed on top, and then the finishing floor is installed.

In accordance with the second option, fiberboard boards are nailed to the floor, and carpet is glued on top of them. This cover is very comfortable. For added convenience, it is recommended to impregnate it with a special composition that makes further care of the carpet easier.

Before gluing the carpet, it must be unfolded and kept in the room for 7-10 days. Fiberboard boards are pre-coated with glue. After gluing the fiberboard, you need to additionally press it to the surface with the help of boards and leave to dry for a day.

In conclusion, you will only have to complete a number of works on the internal improvement of the attic. Start from the ceiling.

Ceiling

The best option is the arrangement of a light suspended ceiling. For the construction of such a design, lining is well suited. You can also use hardboard, plywood or other materials suitable for this.

It is more convenient to first make the ceiling in size, and then attach it to the crossbar of the truss truss.

Walls

Nail the crossbars from a quality wooden beam to the rafters. Nail the selected finishing material to the frame. The best option is a wooden lining.

niches

In places where niches are formed (and they will definitely be present due to the peculiarities of the roof structure), you can nail drywall or other suitable material, creating compact cabinets for storing various kinds of accessories.

Depending on the available space on the attic floor, you can equip a bedroom, an office, a children's room. Focus on the specifics of your situation.

Lighting

Consider the arrangement of attic lighting. The best option is to organize local lighting in each corner of the room. So the interior of the attic will be the most expressive.

In matters of furnishing and further arrangement of the under-roof floor, be guided by your needs and possibilities.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself attic construction

The equipment of the attic room significantly increases the living space of the house. Even an unheated room will serve as additional thermal insulation of the home.

A mansard roof is made in the form of a broken gable structure, but there are many other options:

  • the classic gable roof is characterized by simple calculations, the work of building rafters is also feasible for a novice master, its disadvantage is a low ceiling;
  • shed - a simple type of roof that provides one full-fledged wall in the attic;
  • tented, having four slopes of the same size;
  • multi-forceps - attractive and balanced, but complex design.

The gable broken mansard roof of the house allows you to get a sufficient height of the ceilings in the room and expand the comfortable area. For its construction, a well-designed project is required. Creating it yourself is not an easy task; you can order it from a construction company or use a special computer program. The design scheme will allow you to calculate the required amount of material for rafters, insulation, waterproofing, roofing. The angle of inclination for roof slopes is calculated taking into account the recommendations of the manufacturer of roofing materials, in addition, climatic conditions are taken into account - snow and wind load.

Features of a gable sloping roof

The lower part of the truss system is set at an angle of 60 °, its supporting pillars become a frame for the interior walls of the room. The angle at the top of the rafters does not exceed 45 °, which allows you to reduce the amount of material used, but not at the expense of the quality of the coating. Additional rigidity to the frame of the room is given by struts that are attached to the floor beam and the bottom of the rafters.

Construction stages

  1. Along the perimeter of the building, a support beam is laid - Mauerlat. It is attached to the load-bearing walls and transfers the load from the rafters to the base of the building. Mauerlat is attached to brick or block walls with embedded anchors or studs. You can mark the places for drilling holes for fastening with a tape measure or by attaching a beam to the wall and pressing it down until dents appear. Roofing felt must be laid under the beam for waterproofing. Mauerlat is put on the anchors and secured with nuts.
  2. Floor beams are a durable coniferous timber. They are laid on the Mauerlat and go beyond the perimeter of the walls by 0.5 meters to increase the attic area. Another way is to mount in special pockets left in the masonry. The ends of such bars must be covered with mastic and roofing material to protect against moisture. Beams are fastened with self-tapping screws and corners. The extreme bars are laid in level, for the correct installation of the rest, the cord is pulled. The optimal step of the beams is 0.6 m, it allows you to lay the insulation without trimming. All beams are leveled in height, if the level is insufficient, boards are laid, if the beam protrudes, it is cut off.
  3. Vertical posts are attached to the extreme load-bearing beams. Their height and installation location is determined by the drawing. After being placed vertically with the help of a level and a plumb line, the racks are temporarily fixed with jibs from the board. After fixing the extreme racks, a cord is stretched between them, along which the remaining bars are installed. Each rack is placed on a beam and temporarily fixed, two parallel rows are obtained.
  4. Racks are fastened with girders - boards, this element is necessary to stiffen the structure. A crossbar is placed on top of the run, which connects the racks on opposite sides. The puff is attached to the racks with metal corners. The complex of these elements limits the attic room. To make the structure stronger, struts are subsequently installed.
  5. Before installing the lower rafters, a template is made to facilitate the work. In order not to check every time how to properly saw off the upper part of the rafters, they take a board and, attaching it to the run, cut it at the right angle. This will be the template. A groove is cut out at the bottom of the rafters, which are attached to the Mauerlat. If the lower rafters rest on the extended beam, they are cut in place and fastened with corners, self-tapping screws and nails.
  6. Before you build the top rafters, you need to mark the center of the roof. For convenience, you can nail the board to the Mauerlat and the end puff, it will serve as a guide for aligning the rafters. To be able to trim the upper rafters on the ground, a template is made. To do this, take a board and apply it to the run and saw off at an angle. All rafters are made according to the template, with the correct installation of the racks, they all have the same size. The upper part of the hanging rafters is fastened with metal plates or board scraps. Docking points with girders are fastened with corners. The extreme rafter legs are installed first, then the rest. Hanging racks made of timber with a size of 25 × 150 mm connect the attachment points of the rafters to each other and tighten.
  7. The lower rafters require reinforcement with struts, for this they use a board bolted to the rafters and the supporting beam. After installing all the struts, the temporary supports are removed. Having assembled the entire truss structure, the gables are sewn up.

A vapor barrier membrane is attached to the truss structure using a stapler. The spreading of the canvases starts from the cornice, it is necessary to lay them with an overlap of 15 cm and fix them with adhesive tape. Insulation is laid on top, the material is tightly laid, no gaps are allowed. To fix the insulation, a crate is stuffed. It is made of planks, the width of which is from 10 to 15 cm, and the thickness is 5 cm. This part of the work ends with the interior decoration of the room.

From the outside, waterproofing is attached to the rafters, protecting the roof from water ingress. The material is fixed with a crate on which the roofing will be attached. The step between the slats depends on the type of material. A soft roof needs a continuous crate, so the entire area of ​​​​the mansard roof is sewn up with plywood sheets, which provide an even and solid foundation.

When sheathing gables, leave room for windows, if they are provided for in the design.

Work on the independent construction of the roof is a complex and painstaking process. Using the experience of the masters who share the secrets of construction in the provided video will help you understand the sequence and nuances of installing the roof.

Video

This video shows how to make a mansard roof at home:

A photo

The attic floor is a more spacious and well-prepared attic for life. Features of the room dictate their own conditions in relation to the roof. The arrangement of the mansard roof does not require the performer to have any special knowledge and skills. It is enough to prepare the necessary tools, read the instructions in detail and follow its recommendations in everything.

There are several types of mansard roofs. Familiarize yourself with the features of each of these roofs and choose the most suitable option. The main points of the construction technology are common to all types of construction.

The simplest option is a shed mansard roof. This design is carried out with some bias. It is used quite rarely, because. due to the slope, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic space decreases.

The most popular option is a gable mansard roof. Inside the roof space will be comfortable and spacious. The gable roof is simple and profitable in arrangement.

It is a type of duplex design. In this case, the slopes will not be even, but broken. Typically, broken roofs are used in cases with small houses.

hip roof consists of four slopes. The truss system of the hip roof is somewhat more complicated.

Half hip roof is a type of hipped roof. In this case, a half-hip is usually understood as the slope, which, as it were, cuts off part of the end side of the gable roof. The cut can pass from below and form a trapezoid, or at the top and create a triangle.

Interesting varieties of hipped mansard roof are pyramidal and conical roofs. These designs look best on polygonal houses and round buildings. Perfectly combined with other types of roofs.

They are used quite rarely. This design has a smooth parabolic or circular shape. Previously, such roofs were widely used in the arrangement of rectangular houses.

What is the structure of the attic roof?

The mansard roof in the section is a "pie", consisting of several layers.


Mansard Roof Calculation Guide

The attic roof is calculated according to an extremely simple scheme. It is important to take into account not only the useful, but also the deaf area of ​​​​the attic space. In this case, a zone in which the distance between the ceiling and the floor is more than 90-100 cm will be considered useful. The rest of the places are traditionally considered a dead zone. It is impossible to live in such areas, but in their place you can install a variety of shelves and other household items.

Calculate the total area of ​​the roof. At this point, you will need a roof plan. Break the space into several simple shapes, calculate the area of ​​​​each of them, and then sum the resulting values ​​\u200b\u200bto determine the total roof area.

Before you start building a mansard roof, pay attention to a number of important little things, which include features of thermal insulation of the structure, the procedure for placing window openings etc.

Deserves special attention permissible angle of inclination of the roof slope.If the slope exceeds the permissible value, the area of ​​​​the attic space will decrease significantly. This moment is individual and is selected taking into account the attic area and other important parameters.

Select the appropriate type of rafter system. Rafters, as noted, contribute to an even distribution of the load on the walls. Additionally, thanks to the truss system, reliable protection of the house from various kinds of adverse atmospheric influences is provided.

The simplest version of the attic roof is a triangular shape. The most difficult thing is to make a mansard roof with a break. In the absence of appropriate skills, it is strongly not recommended to take on the independent arrangement of complex roofs.

Step-by-step instructions for building a mansard roof

There are no super complicated steps in the construction of a mansard roof. You just need to carefully read the instructions and follow all the recommendations step by step.

First step. Calculate the strength of the building. The attic increases the load on the walls and foundation of the house. It is better if qualified specialists are engaged in the calculation. If you do not plan to carry out work to strengthen the house, you can skip this step.

Second step. Calculate the attic and prepare a project for the future attic and roof. It is also recommended to involve specialists in this work. If you wish, you can try to create a project yourself or use some ready-made solution from available sources.

Third step. Do this as carefully as possible, try not to damage other structural elements of the house.

Fourth step. Make a truss frame. This is the most time-consuming stage of the instructions in question. It is better if at least 3 people are involved in arranging the frame at the same time.

Fifth step. Place and fix the Mauerlat. To assemble this element, use wooden blocks measuring 10x10 cm.

Sixth step. Install the frame for the roof space. The frame elements will simultaneously act as supports for the rafters. First secure the vertical posts around the edges of the building. Racks must be attached to long beams. Self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners will help you with this.

Seventh step. Attach a jumper to the posts.

Eighth step. Make sure that the elements mentioned above are installed correctly. Any cord will help you with this - simply pull it between the formed arches. If the cord is in a strictly horizontal position, you have done everything right. If the cord deviates from the horizontal, trim the mismatched arches or even replace them with new elements.

Ninth step. Fix the arches together. Nail plates or stamping corners will help you with this.

Fasten the first rafters where the roof slope will have the maximum slope. To obtain the required slope, simply cut the bars to the required length.

The first step is preparing the rafters. Cut the bars in advance to the desired length and required angle. At the bottom of the rafter legs, select the grooves for connecting to the Mauerlat. Grooves can be made with a chisel.

Second step. Fasten each bar to its designated place.

Third step. Proceed to the installation of the upper rafters. At this stage, be especially careful. Observe the desired slope angle and overall alignment of the structure.

Fourth step. The crate can be made from plywood sheets or ordinary wooden boards. The type of lathing must correspond to the selected roofing material. As a rule, continuous flooring is made. This is the most versatile and most reliable option.

Laying of protective materials and completion of work

Mansard roofing requires the organization of high-quality protection from various adverse factors.

The first step is laying the vapor barrier material. The vapor barrier must be fixed on the inside of the truss system. The material is attached to the bars with the help of special building brackets.

The second step is laying the insulation. Mineral wool is traditionally used for insulation. If you wish, you can opt for a more modern and expensive material. Insulation plates should fit snugly together and also fit snugly against the rafters.

The third step is the device of the crate. On the laid insulation you need to fill the crate. Use ordinary wooden blocks. Fasten the elements of the crate in increments of about half a meter. Thanks to this system, the insulation will remain in place.

The fourth step is laying the moisture-proof material. Attach the waterproofing to the outside of the truss system. Polyethylene film is most often used as a moisture-proof layer. Waterproofing will protect the elements of the roof from atmospheric moisture.

The fifth step is laying the finish coat. Roofing material choose at your discretion. The best option in terms of cost and quality characteristics is a metal tile. From budget materials, slate or its more modern counterpart ondulin can be recommended.

After you fix the selected roofing material, the construction of the mansard roof can be considered complete. Thus, there is nothing complicated in arranging the considered system with your own hands. Understand the instructions, and you will successfully cope with all the tasks without outside help.

Video - Do-it-yourself mansard roof step by step