How to remove the switch from the wall. How to remove the switch from the wall - detailed instructions on how to properly dismantle electrical equipment How to disassemble a double light switch

Surely everyone has dealt with repairs at least once, and he knows that such a joyful process at the end causes so much trouble. It also happens that even minor tasks can put you in a stupor. Today we will talk about one of these tasks, namely how to disassemble the light switch. Due to regular use, the switch device very often fails, thereby creating inconvenience and trouble.

The process of disassembling modern switches is approximately the same, since there are no special differences between their structure. Quite often, the switches break due to the poor quality of the mechanism, the parts begin to melt either at high load current, or due to poor contact, the plastic turns yellow or the appearance deteriorates over time. We will consider the most common options for switches and describe step by step the instructions for parsing them.

Step 1. Preparatory work

First, you need to prepare a tool, namely an indicator screwdriver, otherwise, or a voltmeter. Just remember that when measuring voltage, one end of the device gets on the phase wire (contact in the switch), and the other end must be connected to the neutral wire or. They are not in the switch, you need to find it either in or in, i.e. in the other place. This makes it more convenient to use. Before that, it is necessary to turn off the electricity in the house in order to make the process safe. To de-energize the apartment, you need to find the circuit breakers in and turn them off - move the lever from the ON position to the OFF position. If there are several such switches, no matter what to make a mistake, turn off everything, for your own safety. If the plugs are of the old type, then you just need to turn them off by pressing the button. Then, using an indicator screwdriver, check if there is voltage in the wiring of the switch.

Step 2: Removing the switch key

The second step is to disassemble the switch itself. The switches can be removed in two ways:

Pull out by hand;

To pull out the switch key with your hand, you must firmly grasp it by the protruding edge and pull it towards you. With a little effort. The key should give in and pop out.

If the key does not lend itself, then you can gently pry it with a screwdriver. To begin, take the protruding edge of the key and pry it off with a screwdriver on one side. It is important to remember that this must be done carefully, otherwise there is a possibility of damaging the switch.

If the switch has two keys, then you need to do all of the above with each of the keys in turn. In case you have to assemble the switch back without replacing it with a new one, then put all the parts in a separate place so as not to lose them and not make a mistake.

Step 3: Removing the switch bezel

After removing the keys, you need to remove the switch frame. Often, there are switches with a solid frame that are attached to the mechanism using small screws or self-tapping screws. Take them apart with a screwdriver.

Also, there are switches with a built-in mount. This system is installed in special grooves, and it can be removed by gently pulling towards you. In some cases, it is necessary to pry with a screwdriver.

The third type of switches is a design where the frame is attached to the mechanism using metal fasteners. In this case, if it is not possible to immediately remove the fasteners, then when disassembling such a frame, it is first better to remove the entire structure and then remove the fasteners that hold the frame in the mechanism.

Step 4. Removing the switch mechanism from the socket

After removing the frame, the stage of detaching the mechanism from . To do this, you need to unscrew the screws located on the sides that hold the mechanism in the socket with a screwdriver.

Some mechanisms are mounted on "struts". Legs are installed on the sides of them, which, when the screw is tightened, disperse to the sides, thereby securing the mechanism in the socket.

Also, some mechanisms can be mounted in a mounting box, then you need to loosen the screws on the box and remove it.

Step 5. Disconnecting the wires

The final step is to disconnect the switch mechanism from the voltage wires. There are two types of attachment:

screw terminals;
spring terminals.

In the first case, you need to loosen the screws in the terminals and only then remove the wires. If the mechanism is with clamping terminals, then you will need to find the levers in the places where the wires are attached, press on them and disconnect the wires.

When disconnecting the wires from the mechanism, for the convenience of reassembly, it is worth remembering which wire was on which side. Most often, wires go to the load (light bulbs) from the side contacts, and a phase comes to the central terminal.

After you have followed all the instructions, you can try to find out the cause of the breakdown. It is worth looking through the disassembled switch for yellow, dull spots, melted plastic. Perhaps the reason lies in the poor contact of the wires with the mechanism. Over time, the contact weakens and you just need to tighten the screws tighter.

Step 6 Switch Assembly Process

During the assembly or replacement of the mechanism with a new one, the process is carried out in the opposite direction. First, you need to fix the wires. Then fix the mounting box in the socket, then carefully put on the frame and insert the keys. If you are dismantling the switch during repairs, and are not going to install a new one, you need to remember that after turning on the electricity, the bare wires will be energized, so they need to be insulated.

How to disassemble the video switch be sure to see

Conclusion

In this article, you learned the possible causes of malfunctions or incorrect operation of the switch, how to disassemble the light switch, how the switch works, how to replace it with a new one. Following the step-by-step instructions, you can disassemble the light switch, repair, assemble or install a new one. We hope that this article was informative and informative for you.

A simple sequence of operations showing how to remove the switches from the wall if someone else installed them requires basic knowledge of handling a 220 V voltage indicator screwdriver and careful work.

You can also use a regular screwdriver, but there will be a risk of electricity in case of power supply failures, induced currents or voltage in the neutral wire from other sources with high ground resistance. To be sure, you can use thin rubber gloves.

The main options for the situation

The differences in how the switch will have to be removed lie in several important features of the device of a particular network.

These include:

Turning off the machine at the entrance to the room does not relieve the need to check the absence of voltage directly on the removed device.

Strictly observe safety precautions when working with electricity

Before starting work, a complex circuit for connecting electrical appliances must be de-energized completely, without exception. The result of deviation from the rules of electrical safety may be:

electric shock, burns, eye damage;
failure as a result of short-circuit currents of non-disconnected electrical devices;
breakdown of insulation, switching fittings in the shield;
fire.

Be sure to take measures to prevent accidental switching on: close the shield with a lock, hang a sign “Do not turn on - people are working!”.

Removing the circuit breaker

All manipulations must be performed without undue force.

The case of a modern switch is smooth, the fastening elements are hidden from view.

The material of most parts is plastic of various kinds, metal parts are installed in the most necessary nodes, sometimes ceramics are present.

All disassembly manipulations are performed without applying excessive force.

Contact density is provided in 2 ways:

screw clamp (unscrew and remove the current core);
self-clamping terminal (press the lever and pull out the conductor).

If the contact overheats during operation, metal parts can burn and the adjacent insulation can be charred. You can bite off the burnt section of the wire and not waste time and effort trying to break the soldered thread. It is necessary to remove the damaged part of the core in such a way that the remaining length is enough for a new connection. For detailed instructions on how to properly remove the switch, see this video:

For the convenience of subsequent installation in place of a new switch, the ends of the wires can be immediately marked (phase, zero, jumper). If a new device is not installed immediately, the bare ends must be insulated.

Surely it happened while doing repairs to run into a problem how to change a switch. It's not a tricky thing, but

scary, electricity after all, suddenly you can’t figure out the wires. Well, it is not clear what to connect where and to what to fasten.

In fact, there is nothing complicated here and there is nothing to be afraid of, everything is just like hammering a nail into a wall. After reading this article, in which everything is detailed, you will never again have a question, how to change a switch.

So, we have a switch that needs to be changed.

First of all, you need to dismantle the old switch, and only then proceed to install a new one.

Removing the circuit breaker

We unscrew the two screws that secure the protective carbolite or plastic cover, carefully remove it.

Before us is the mechanism of a single-gang switch. It has two contact screw clamps, to which wire cores are connected.

The mechanism is fixed in the socket with the help of spacer tabs, which are adjusted using two screws located on the left and right.

Before dismantling the mechanism, it is necessary to determine the core along which the phase approaches the switch. We use for this, instructions for use can be viewed by clicking on the highlighted blue link in the corresponding instructions.

Extremely carefully, so as not to touch the energized contacts with our hands, in turn we bring the indicator first to one, then to the other contact. We switch the switch key to another position and check again.

It is necessary to find such a position of the key when the phase is only on one contact, in this position it is in the "off" position. Thus, the supply phase conductor of the wire will be found. The second core, which is without voltage, will go to the lamp.

Before carrying out further work on replacing the switch, you need to take care of the safety of this event, for this you need to turn off the supply of electricity to the apartment (unscrew the plugs or turn off the machine in the floor or apartment switchboard).

We turn off, check the absence of voltage and only after that we continue to dismantle the switch.

We unscrew the two screws of the spacer legs, pull out the mechanism from the socket.

Disconnect wires. First the phase wire. We unscrew the contact screw, remove the wire and mark it with insulating tape.

Then we disconnect the second wire, freeing the mechanism.

Straighten the wires.

Dismantling completed.

We are preparing

Before connecting the switch, it is necessary to prepare it for installation. How to do this, we will analyze below.

Remove the key by prying it in the center on the left or right side with a flat screwdriver.

We unscrew the two screws located diagonally.

Now the mechanism is available to us. The mechanisms of single-key switches can be of various designs, but they have the same connection principle. There are necessarily two contact clamps and spacer legs for attaching to the socket.

In our mechanism, the screws of the spacer legs are located on the left and right.

They set in motion the metal fixation legs.

And two contact screw clamps for connecting wires.

By unscrewing or tightening the contact screw, we move the pressure plate, designed to securely fix the core in contact.

Each contact provides connections from 1 to 2 wires.

How to connect a light switch?

First you need to prepare the wires, we clean the core insulation, remove 1 cm with a knife.

We insert it into the contact hole. If necessary, we cut off the excess, ideally it should not stick out of the contact for more than 1-2 mm. We look that the insulation of the core does not get into the clamp.

Tighten the contact screw.

We check how well the contact is stretched, pull the wire, if it is not mobile, everything is normal, if not, we stretch it further. Remember, a poorly tightened contact is the reason for the imminent failure of the switch. Although you don’t need to be very zealous either, you can strip the screw thread, on inexpensive switches it is very vulnerable. We are looking for a middle ground, it went tight, that's all, we check and move on to the next wire.

Clean up, put in.

On some switches, on the back of the mechanism there may be contact designations:

Most often, on single-key switches, the designations look like this L and 1, or 1 and 2, where:

"L" (to designate L and 1), "1" (to designate 1 and 2) - contact for connecting the incoming phase, the one that we marked with an insulating tape.
"1" (to designate L and 1), "2" (to designate 1 and 2) - outgoing contact, it can also be marked with an arrow.

These designations are due to the fact that when connecting the switch correctly, the incoming phase must be a fixed contact, and the outgoing phase must be movable. Although from a practical point of view, this is not important for single-gang switches, the wires can be connected this way and that.

So, we have come to the installation of the switch mechanism in (mounting cup). Before doing this, check that the switch is set correctly. To do this, apply voltage and turn the key on and off. In the on position, the key should be pressed at the top, and in the off position, at the bottom.

We install the mechanism in the socket, align it horizontally and tighten the screws of the spacer legs until a rigid fixation is achieved.

Screw the protective cover into place.

Installing the key. Before that, we look at its reverse side, the pins on the key should fit into the grooves on the button.

The switch is installed.

You can see more details on how other electrical wiring elements (sockets, double switches, illuminated switches, chandeliers and lamps) are installed.

To complete the work on replacing the switch, we needed:

Material

switch - 1

Tool

voltage indicator
flat and Phillips screwdrivers

Typically, a light switch will last up to 10-12 years, but there are times when it needs to be replaced sooner. The reasons may be different - mechanical damage, breakdown of the internal mechanism or obsolescence and unsightly appearance. For an experienced electrician, replacing a circuit breaker is a matter of five minutes. For a non-specialist, this time may increase to 10-15 minutes, but in any case, before starting to disassemble the switch, it is useful to familiarize yourself with its internal structure.

Replacing an old switch with a new one

There are three types of switches: with one key, two or three. To figure out how to replace, consider the example of removing and installing a simple one-gang switch.

Photo gallery: types of electrical switches

All types of switches, including single-gang switches, can be used for flush or outdoor wiring With a two-gang switch, you can independently control two lines of lighting fixtures instrument

Repair, dismantling and replacement of the circuit breaker is only allowed when the power is off.

The circuit breakers on the switchboard must be turned off (check box at the bottom).

In order to ensure your own safety during work, you must turn off the electricity by lowering the corresponding box of the circuit breaker

To finally make sure that there is no voltage on the switch contacts, it is recommended to use a household voltage indicator by installing a metal leg in turn on each of the contacts. A direct confirmation of the disconnection of the network is also the fact that the working lamp of the lamp does not light up when the switch is turned on (button up).

When there is voltage inside the transparent plastic case, the LED lights up.

How to remove an old switch

First of all, you need to conduct a visual inspection. There are many types of switches, and they differ in the way they are assembled. In some, the outer cover is fixed with screws, in others it is held on by plastic latches.

To remove this antique switch, you need to unscrew the two bolts and remove the decorative cover.

First, the top protective cover is removed. If it is fixed on screws, they need to be unscrewed. To do this, use a screwdriver with straight slots. If the fastening is made with latches, then before removing the cover, you need to remove the key. This is done using the same screwdriver, gently inserting it into the gap between the case and the key. If there are several keys, then each of them is removed independently.

The key is gently pry off with a screwdriver inserted into the slot, and removed with a screwdriver.
When the key is removed, the entire internal structure of the switch becomes available for disassembly. If the wiring device is hidden, the switch is recessed into the depth of the wall and is attached to the socket using sliding legs. They must be released by unscrewing the two screw bolts counterclockwise. You need to rotate them until the base falls out of the socket. If the wiring is external, the mount is slightly different. There are no sliding legs and a socket box, the switch body is fixed directly to the wall.
The built-in switch is dismantled after unscrewing the two screws securing to the socket
By unscrewing two screws, you can get a base, inside of which there is a contact pair that opens the circuit for supplying current to the lamp.
After unscrewing the bolts, the switch is freely removed from the socket
At the last stage of dismantling the switch, the wires are disconnected from it. They are inserted into special terminal blocks and fastened to them with screw clamps. By loosening the screws one and a half to two turns, you can easily pull the wires out of the sockets. They should not be completely unscrewed, as in some switches the fastening is designed in such a way that the cable is clamped between the screw and the square nut. If the nut comes off the thread, it will be difficult to reinstall it later.
After loosening the wire fastening bolts, the switch body will remain in your hands

Video: how to disassemble the switch

Installing a new switch

Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

The wires are connected in place.
The base is inserted into the socket and secured with spacer legs.
A plastic case is screwed on top.
A key is inserted into the grooves.

In this case, it is important to install the switch so that the lamp turns on when the button is pressed up. The assembly of the switch for external wiring is carried out identically, with the difference that after fixing the cable contacts, the base is screwed to the wall, then the case is attached to it, and lastly the key is installed.

The switch is installed in the reverse order of removing the old device.

How to move the switch to another location

Sometimes there is a desire (or need) to move the switch to another location. For example, when the children in the family grow up, but still cannot reach the switch. The rules for installing electrical appliances allow the switch to be moved to a convenient place for the user. It is allowed to install the switch at a height of 80 to 160 cm from the floor. In order to make such a move, you must first determine the new location. It is considered optimal to install a switch located 15–20 cm from the edge of the door jamb (on the right or on the left - it does not matter, but it is more common to install it on the right).

The switch is installed 15–20 cm from the door on either side

If the reinstallation is carried out within 1 m of the original location down or up, a strobe is made in the wall. Its depth should be approximately 1.5 times the thickness of the cable (or cables) laid in the corrugation. The wire should lie freely inside the groove without looking out. The strobe can be made with a puncher or a strobe cutter.
In order to make hidden wiring, a strobe is made in the wall with a volume of about 1.5 times larger than the size of the cable in the corrugated hose
In the place of the new position of the switch, a hole for the socket is drilled. This can be done with a perforator using a diamond crown. The depth of the hole should be no more than 5 cm in concrete and brick houses and 4.5 cm in panel houses. As a rule, a crown with a diameter of 68 mm is used. However, there are various situations, and the crown is selected based on them. This concludes the preparatory work.
The hole for the socket is drilled using a diamond core bit with a diameter of 68 mm
The next step is to turn off the power to the mains of the house (apartment) and completely disassemble the switch, described above. In addition to the switch itself, the socket box is also carefully removed from the wall. This can be done with a puncher or a simple chisel with a hammer. Socket boxes in concrete and brick walls are attached to gypsum, which crumbles and collapses when exposed to blows. It is important not to break the plastic case of the socket itself, it can be reused.
The socket box can be removed by carefully knocking out its edges and crumbling the adhesive layer of gypsum
After that, the cable is extended to the desired length. It is best to connect the wires using a terminal block or a regular Wago block, but if this is not possible, you can make a simple twist, while insulating it well with a dielectric tape. According to the rules for laying cables in strobes, the cable must be placed in the corrugation. The minimum size of a corrugated plastic sleeve is (outer diameter) 16 mm. The metal corrugation may be 9.8 mm across. The junction of the old and new corrugations must also be insulated. The size of the stackable cable is selected in such a way that there is a margin of 5–10 cm.
If there are no terminal connectors at hand, you can do the usual twist, carefully insulating all open areas
After that, a socket is installed in a new place. The easiest and fastest way is to fix it on alabaster, a quick-setting electrical plaster. The solution is diluted in the ratio of 1 part alabaster to 1 part water by volume. Since the gypsum hardens very quickly, the socket box is first installed in the hole in the wall, the corrugated cable is inserted into it, and only then the solution is prepared.
Alabaster must be diluted in water in a ratio of 1: 1 and quickly applied to the necessary places, because it hardens very quickly
After the alabaster is brought to the consistency of thick sour cream, it fills the strobe with the cable and the empty space around the socket. After 25–30 minutes, the solution will harden and it will be impossible to change the position of the wiring, so everything must be done within 5–7 minutes. Later, with a different solution, the strobe is completely puttied and leveled in the plane of the wall. The former location of the socket box is also completely filled with putty. For the final leveling of all voids, ordinary gypsum is used, which sets only after 25–30 minutes (and some up to an hour), which gives enough time to work. After the putty has completely dried (24 hours), the surface is sanded with sandpaper.
The strobe must be filled with mortar and carefully leveled, and after the alabaster has dried, sanded with sandpaper
The installation and connection of the switch is carried out after the strobe and the socket box are completely dry. The connection procedure is described above.

Sometimes (more often this happens in old panel houses) you can come across a switch that is fixed in a recess without using a socket. This practice was characteristic of the buildings of the end of the previous century. The panels were poured at the factory, they provided for the installation of switches and sockets directly into the concrete holes. For some (short) time, such switches served properly, but the sockets were the first to fail and fell out of their sockets when the cord was pulled out. Therefore, if there is no socket under the switch, the task will only be simplified.

In the case when the switch is moved over a considerable distance, it is possible to connect it to another junction box. But it makes no sense to describe this process without reference to a specific situation. In this case, the best solution is to consult with an experienced electrician directly on site.

It is much easier and faster to reset the circuit breaker when cabling outdoors. Obviously, in this case, there is no need to ditch the walls, it is enough to stretch the cable channel or even just the cable in the corrugation to a new location.

Outdoor wiring is most often carried out in plastic boxes.

For corrugated sleeves, special brackets are available for sale to help fix them on the wall.

It is more convenient to fasten a corrugated hose with a cable inserted into it using plastic clips

Often such wiring is done in garages, warehouses and other office premises. A clear advantage is its high degree of accessibility during repair or maintenance work. In addition, additional conductors can always be installed in the cable channel as needed.

Video: how to move the switch

Switch repair

Not always the old switch needs to be thrown away and replaced with a new one. Sometimes it is enough to repair it. The switch device is quite simple and can be repaired in case of a breakdown without much difficulty. If you carefully consider the disassembled switch, you can understand that the main function in it is performed by a contact pair, which moves from one position to another by the force of mechanical action. In one position, the electrical circuit is connected, in the other it is disconnected.

Necessary tools and materials

To disassemble and assemble the switch, you will need only one tool - a flat-blade screwdriver, the size of which is 3–5 mm. To clean the contacts, you need a piece of fine-grained sandpaper or a needle file.

Disassembly of the circuit breaker is carried out using a conventional flat-blade screwdriver.

How to disassemble the switch

The process of disassembling the switch has been described above. For convenience, we present it here again.

Modern switches consist of a non-separable base, which simply changes in case of damage.

Contact cleaning

If the switch is unstable (it turns on, then does not turn on the lamp), most likely, the reason lies in the burnt contacts. Upon closer inspection, such contacts may be slightly charred or even melted. This happens because the wire is not firmly fixed in the terminal block. Another reason may be a power surge in the network at the time of switching on. A lamp with too much power can also cause damage to the contacts over time. Be that as it may, contact must be restored, then it will continue to serve properly. To do this, it is cleaned with fine sandpaper until a uniform metallic color appears.

Fine sandpaper is used to clean the contacts.

Sometimes the conductor may be tinned, i.e. treated with tin. Then instead of sandpaper it is better to use a small file - a needle file.

How to assemble a switch

Assembly is in reverse order. If the repair is carried out for the first time, you can lay out the parts on the table in the order of disassembly or take pictures in stages. When repairing a single-gang switch, the location of the wires does not matter. But if there are two or three keys in it, then in order to avoid confusion, it is better to immediately mark the incoming core with a marker. They can also mark the place of its connection.

When installing a two-gang switch, it is necessary to correctly connect the lead wire (phase), which is better to mark when disassembling

You can check the result of the repair after installing the base in the socket. To do this, turn on the mains power on the shield and test the switch. If it works normally, you can complete the assembly, install the protective case and the key.

Video: repair and replacement of the switch

Getting started on replacing the lighting switch, you need to take care of safety measures. It must be remembered that electric current can cause damage to health and is a danger to life. It is necessary to observe the main rule of health protection, which is that installation should only take place when the devices are disconnected from the mains.

Sometimes, for one reason or another, it is necessary to dismantle and remove the light switch available in any dwelling. Before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances that allow you to carry out the process correctly. In the article we will tell you how to disassemble the light switch, we will give detailed step-by-step instructions.

Required tool for disassembly

To disassemble the switch, you will need some simple tools and fixtures. The main ones are a pair of screwdrivers, although many devices can be dismantled with the help of a single flat one. A Phillips screwdriver will be needed for devices that have cross-shaped screws in their design.

Before starting work, you should take care of turning off the power supply to the apartment or house. Switching off is carried out in the electrical panel, which, as a rule, is located on the stairwell or near the front door. If it is not known which of the levers is responsible for a particular room of the apartment, it is recommended not to take risks, but to immediately switch all the toggle switches to the “OFF” position. Failure to do so may result in electric shock when removing the circuit breaker.

Before starting work, de-energize the room or the entire dwelling by moving the corresponding toggle switch

It must always be remembered that when doing any work with electricity, safety is the most important factor. The lever in the electrical panel must be pointing down. Even with a completely de-energized home, it will not be superfluous to play it safe, additionally making sure that there is no voltage with an indicator screwdriver. Also, before disassembling, you should study the design features of the installed switch. Read also the article: → "".

Disassembly of the device that turns off the light begins with the removal of the key, since it is impossible to continue work without dismantling it. Removing this structural element is almost always quite quick and easy. Before removing the key, you must carefully examine the mechanism of the existing device. It is produced in various types, and therefore the process may have fundamental differences.

The easiest way is to press the key towards the wall with your thumb, grab the ledge with your other fingers and, with not too much effort, pull the key towards you. Some people are often afraid of damaging the key by applying too much force to a tightly mounted element. In this case, you can use a flat thin screwdriver or a knife, slightly prying the key. But still, it is better to try to remove it manually - the risk of scratching or damaging the element is minimal.

To remove the key in most models of switches, it is enough to use your fingers

There are such models of switches, for example, Lezard, in which there are special holes on the sides of the keys. Prying them with a screwdriver, removing the key is done without much effort. If the switch is two-key, then the second element is removed after removing the previous one according to the same principle. Read also the article: → "".

Removing the switch frame

The next work when disassembling the switch is to remove the frame, which can be fixed in two ways:

screw;
clamping.

The fastening of the screw frames, as you might guess, is carried out by means of small screws, unscrewed with a Phillips or flat screwdriver. The clamping frames are attached using special clamps, which simply bend for dismantling. For greater convenience and speed up the process, one clamp is first removed, and then the second.

Switch disassembly and dismantling

The final step in disassembling the switch is removing it from the mounting box. To do this, loosen the mounting tabs that securely hold the device in the wall. The corresponding screws are loosened, after which the mechanism is freely removed from the wall. Some models of switches, such as Makel brands, are fixed to the sides of the box with screws. In this case, they should simply be unscrewed using a screwdriver.

After dismantling the switch on the wires connected to it, it is necessary to measure the voltage using an indicator screwdriver. If there is no voltage, then after disassembling the fasteners, the wires are disconnected from the device.

Tip #1. The dismantled switch should be inspected for melted contacts. If there are any, then the device cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced. In the absence of this problem, it is necessary to inspect for damage of a different nature, and also check all contacts at the points of attachment of the wires.

Disconnecting wires from the device

In most models of switches, including the Legrand and Wessen brands, the wires are fixed by means of a bolted connection, which, when disconnected, simply needs to be loosened and slightly pulled towards you. If the switch fails, before installing a new wire, they are insulated and marked with different colors so as not to confuse them during installation.

Features of dismantling popular brands of switches (MAKEL, LEGRAND, Wessen, LEZZARD)

Switches of the MAKEL brand have some design features, and therefore their disassembly is carried out according to the following technology:

remove the keys - there are no differences from other brands of devices;
dismantle the cover.

When removing the decorative frame, you may encounter some problems. The manufacturer used to fasten this element with special elastic clips that go deep into the device. The overlay must be pulled towards you without applying excessive force, as it can be easily damaged. Also, a design feature is the location of the screws on the inside, so you can get close to them only after removing the case from the wall.

LEGRAND

The key or keys of the LEGRAND double switch are removed without any serious effort by pressing on the lower or upper part. Then, after removing the frame, it is necessary to loosen the tabs that hold the device in the mounting box.

Wessen

The keys in the Wessen switch models are removed as follows. The protruding parts are wrapped around with fingers, compressed and pulled towards themselves. When pressed, axial guides come out of the grooves. There are some nuances when removing the frame. The solid plate of Wessen Prima switches is attached to the body of the mechanism by means of two bolts, which are easily unscrewed with a screwdriver.

The Wessen Zenit switch with the frame removed is attached to the wall with a pair of bolts

LEZARD

Switches of this brand can have frames attached in two ways:

screws that are simply unscrewed with a screwdriver;
special fastening in the form of side latches, which must be carefully picked up and bent with a knife or screwdriver.

Switches with three keys of the Lezard brand are dismantled by removing the elements one by one

How to disassemble a light switch with a regulator

If the process of disassembling ordinary switches in most cases is clear and simple, then with devices equipped with dimmers for lighting, some difficulties may arise. Dimmers, including mechanical ones, are connected to the circuit according to exactly the same principle as ordinary switches. Therefore, their disassembly is carried out according to the same scheme:

the rotary handle is removed;
using a screwdriver or a knife, the decorative frame is released from the latch;
the fasteners are loosened;
screws fixing the housing are unscrewed.

Removing a switch with a dimmer is similar to disassembling an ordinary household appliance.

How to disassemble the switch with indicator

To disassemble the illuminated switch, you must first turn off the indicator, for which the power is turned off and the LED is removed. The sequence of actions is as follows:

turning off the switch de-energizes the room;
the key latches are carefully pry off with a thin screwdriver and removed;
the frame is carefully removed;
fastener bolts are loosened;
the device is removed from the mounting box;
the presence of voltage in the wires is checked with a screwdriver-indicator.

Council number 2. Before touching a bare wire, make sure that there is no voltage. To do this, bring a tester or other probe to each of the contacts - the indicator should not turn on.

The Shneider Electric indicator switch is also disassembled without the use of complex tools.

Frequently asked Questions

Question number 1. How can I get close to the LED in the indicator switch?

As a rule, to replace the LED element, you will need to split the device into two halves by unlatching the latches. After that, access to the LED will be opened, which can be unsoldered or removed by biting the wiring.

Question number 2. How to reassemble the switch?

Regardless of the model, the assembly of the device is always carried out in the reverse order without any nuances.

Question number 3. What to do if there are traces of oxidation on the contacts of the switch?

If the contacts are oxidized, then they can be carefully cleaned. If the terminals are melted, the switch must be replaced - its further operation is dangerous!

Typical mistakes at work

A common mistake is to apply excessive force when removing a switch key or a decorative frame. As a result, these elements can be not only scratched, but also broken. In this case, regardless of the device model, you will need to purchase a new one, since keys and frames are not sold separately.
The most dangerous mistake is the neglect of safety rules. Be sure to turn off the power supply to the room on the shield. If in doubt which of the switches is “correct”, it is better to turn them all off.