How and where to install a toilet. How to install a toilet with your own hands: installation steps and useful tips. Construction assembly sequence

You will need:

toilet bowl with cistern and fittings;
a set of fasteners and a flexible eyeliner;
eccentric cuff or corrugation;
adapter collar 123 × 110 mm (for connection to a cast-iron socket);
gas burner or building hair dryer (for disconnecting a cast-iron pipe);
tile adhesive or repair compound (for sealing a hole in the floor);
perforator or impact drill;
drill for concrete with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm;
tile drill 8 or 10 mm;
a set of wrenches and a hacksaw;
hammer and dowels;
tape measure and marker;
screwdrivers and knife;
silicone sealant and rags;
bucket and sponge;
WD‑40 multipurpose grease or equivalent (if required).

If you are installing a new toilet, and not changing it, proceed to the next step.

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Turn off the faucet at the entrance to the tank or (if not) the faucet at the entrance to the apartment. Remove the flexible hose and then press the drain button. Take a bucket of water and quickly pour it into the toilet so that the remains of sewage inside the siphon. Use a sponge to remove water from the bowl.

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Unscrew the fixing screws of the toilet bowl, with which it is bolted to the floor. With a sharp knife, cut the sealant around the base of the bowl. Remove the corrugation from the outlet of the siphon and move the toilet away. And plug the sewer socket with a bag or rags so that the smell does not penetrate into the room.

If the plumbing is very old, the dismantling process will be more difficult. First remove the mounting bolts, spraying them with WD‑40 if necessary. Then, with a screwdriver, crumble the cement chasing along the perimeter of the cast-iron sewer pipe, preheating it with a burner or a building hair dryer, and remove the toilet bowl.

Sometimes it's easier to split ancient plumbing with a hammer or puncher, and then remove the pieces from the sewer pipe. If you decide to take drastic measures, do not forget to wear safety glasses.

Use a repair compound or tile adhesive to fill in the resulting depression and wait 6-12 hours for complete curing.

3. Assemble the cistern fittings

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Unpack the toilet and carefully read the instructions. Lay out all the details on the cardboard from the box so as not to scratch. Put on the threads of the drain and fill valves cone gaskets with a narrow part towards the holes.

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Reinstall the valves and tighten the plastic nuts by hand and then another quarter turn with a wrench. Make sure that the drain valve does not touch the walls of the tank (otherwise the float will stop and will not shut off the water when filling). To do this, check its course by hand or turn the tank over.

4. Install the tank on the bowl

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Place the largest rubber pad on the shelf and place the tank on top, lining up the mounting holes. Slide the conical washers on the bolts with the narrow part down and insert the fasteners into the holes.

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Install plastic and metal washers from below, and then evenly tighten the nuts by hand so that the tank stands up without distortion. Put the lid on the tank, insert and wrap the drain button by hand.

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Next, decide on the location of the new toilet. Move the bowl into place, try to sit down. To save space, you can press as close as possible to the wall, but not close - it is advisable to leave a gap of 2-3 cm between it and the tank.

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Align the drain with the sewer socket. If you use a straight pipe for connection, measure with a tape measure and cut off the required fragment. Remove the burrs around the edge with a knife. If you use a corrugation or an eccentric cuff - try on how they become.

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Remove a bag or rag from the sewer outlet. Lubricate the O-ring in the socket with soap or and insert the pipe into it, and then into it - the toilet drain. Install the corrugation or eccentric collar in the same way.

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On an old cast-iron sewer, first insert a special adapter collar with a diameter of 123 × 110 mm into the socket cleaned and lubricated with sealant. For reliability, you can additionally coat the joint of the plastic pipe with the cuff with silicone.

7. Attach the toilet to the floor

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Move the bowl to the provided place and mark the fixing holes on the floor with a marker. If the toilet has hidden brackets, circle the bottom of the perimeter, and then measure the desired distance from the edges according to the drawing in the instructions.

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Drill holes in the floor. First, tile with a special drill for ceramics, and then with an appropriate drill. Remove dust and insert dowels into the holes.

Apply the silicone in a snake around the perimeter of the toilet, not reaching the edge of 2-3 cm, and wait about 20 minutes until it hardens a little.

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Then install the plumbing in place and, putting plastic washers on the mounting bolts, wrap them with a key. Do not overdo it so that the ceramic does not burst - it is better to tighten the fasteners later if necessary. Put decorative caps on the bolt heads.

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Fill the joint of the bowl with the tiles with sealant. Remove excess with your finger or tissue and let dry. It is better to use transparent silicone, because the white one turns yellow and gets dirty over time.

If there are pipes under the tiles or you can’t drill through the tiles for other reasons, you can simply glue the toilet onto the silicone.

To do this, the surface must be perfectly flat, clean and dry, and before using new plumbing, you need to wait at least a day until the sealant completely hardens.

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Using a flexible hose, connect the filling valve fitting to the tap next to the tank. Position the hose so that it is not kinked or strained. Wrap the nuts with a wrench, but not very tightly - they only press the rubber gaskets.

9. Install a toilet seat

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Gather the hardware. If the mounts are labeled "left" and "right", do not confuse. Insert the rubber bushings into the holes, place the eccentrics on top and adjust the distance between them according to the width of the toilet seat holes.

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Tighten the fixing bolts with plastic washers from below. Put the decorative pads on the rubber part of the eccentrics and install the cover on them until it clicks.

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Open the tank faucet, wait until it is full, and make sure that the valve shuts off the water supply. Press the drain button. Make sure that there is no flexible connection on the nuts, and that the drain is connected to a pipe or corrugation and the sewer outlet.

With "straight" hands, most of the housework can be done independently. This category of work includes the installation of a toilet bowl. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done by hand.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation - a task of medium complexity

Types of toilets

In this article, we will consider not the features of the flush or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.

According to the installation method

The toilet itself consists of a sanitary bowl and a drain tank. The bowl can be floor mounted or suspended. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is flush-mounted - built into the wall. In the case of a floor bowl, there are three options for fixing the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected with a flexible hose, in an installation (frame hidden in the wall).

The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush cistern is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to the hanging one, it takes up more space, looks more heavy. Accordingly, the installation of suspended models is complicated - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps it is only during the repair.

Release to the sewer

The choice of toilet for release into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:

If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet is optimal. If the exit is in the floor, but is close to the wall, the oblique toilet is most convenient. The horizontal version is universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected both to the wall and to the floor.

Installing a toilet bowl with a compact cistern (floor version)

A toilet bowl, a tank, a drain device and a float are usually brought from the store separately. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.

What does a floor-standing toilet with a "compact" cistern consist of?

Assembly

The process begins with the installation of a drain device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in a hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drain device and the tank.

On the reverse side, the supplied plastic washer is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then - using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held by hand.

The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included in the standard package. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, rubber gaskets are put on, then washers, and only then nuts are screwed on.

Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “planted” on a sealant. First we coat it on one side, put it on the toilet bowl, coat it on the other, put the tank.

We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers, nuts on the screws from below, tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.

Next, we put a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes in the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.

We wind a little flax on the outlet pipe, coat it with sanitary paste, install a corner (brass or stainless). Do not tighten the connection strongly, do not clog that the pipe is made of plastic.

Installing a tee

Floor mounting

The toilet is almost assembled, you can put it in place. The toilet bowl is connected to the sewerage by means of a corrugated adapter. At the ends, it has rubber seals that fit snugly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.

If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted all the way. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference on a dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then a corrugation is inserted. For greater certainty, you can go through the sealant on the outside of the joint.

In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.

The second end of the corrugation is put on the outlet of the toilet bowl. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Everything is so simple. There is only one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with soap moistened with water, only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, it will be problematic to remove the toilet without damaging the corrugation. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove, rather than trying to move a partially fixed device.

Putting the corrugation on the outlet, we expose the toilet as it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is a place for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, if necessary, correct the position. Then they take a pencil or marker, inserting it into the holes in the sole, mark the places for installing fasteners.

Having removed the toilet bowl, holes for the dowels are drilled in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use it - it will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately put powerful dowels.

If the toilet is installed on a tile so that it does not crack, it is better to pierce the glazed surface. They take a self-tapping screw, mark it, hit it with a hammer several times. This is what is called "pinching". Then they take a drill or a puncher and drill a tile, turning off the impact mode. After the tile is passed, you can turn on the perforation mode.

We put plastic plugs from dowels in the holes. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.

We sweep the floor, removing dust at the installation site of the toilet. We put it in place, insert the dowels into the holes, twist them with the appropriate key. It is necessary to tighten the bolts alternately on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet becomes firmly, without play.

The final touch is the connection to the water supply. Connect the outlet of the water pipe to the tap installed on it with the corner on the tank, which was connected earlier. This requires a flexible hose. At its ends there are union nuts (American), so there will be no problems with fastening. Tighten well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a wall hung toilet with installation

To install hanging toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - from the far edge of the order of 13-15 cm. If the exit from the floor, there is a solution - a special overlay with which the drain is transferred closer to the wall.

The installation of a wall-hung toilet bowl begins with fixing the stops to the wall to the installation frame. They are attached two at the top and at the bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame rises and starts.

The upper stops are in the form of rods, adjustable with a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The bottom stops are more like plates, they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with a side head.

The assembled frame is attached to the wall, its center is exposed above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).

Using a bubble level, the horizontal and vertical installation of the wall-hung toilet installation is checked.

Checking the horizontal

By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, set by the manufacturer, is set. How convenient it is to do, look at the photo.

The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. In appropriate places put marks with a pencil or marker, drill holes. They are equipped with plastic housing dowels. Most of the hanging toilets are imported, and they recommend planting the dowel bodies on the sealant. Some of the sealant is squeezed into the drilled hole, a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic case.

In a fixed installation, you can put connecting elements - branch pipes, couplings. They are all included and simply snap into place.

Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be held. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, silicone seals are put on top (in the lower photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).

The sewer pipe extends to the desired distance, is fixed in a predetermined position with a bracket. It covers the pipe from above, is inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it is latched), the plug on the side surface is removed. Right or left - depends on where you have water. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, the counterpart is inserted from the inside, everything is connected with a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without applying excessive force - it is plastic.

A tee is installed inside the tank, a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. They do this with the help of an adapter and an American.

A hose from the tank is connected to a special tee inlet. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a cap nut.

Install the cover in place. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall of moisture-resistant drywall. It is recommended to put two sheets, but you can use one. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.

The toilet bowl is put on the pins, its outlet goes into the plastic socket. The connection is tight, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet with the installation.

In cases where there is a desire to save on the services of specialists or just learn a new building skill, information on how to properly install a toilet will come in handy.

What you need to install

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you need to take care of the availability of a number of tools:

perforator or impact drill;
drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm (depending on the diameter of the dowel for fixing the toilet bowl);
tile drill (if installation is done on a tile or ceramic plate);
wrench;
set of wrenches;
a hammer;
sealant (either in a special tube or together with a sealant gun);
screwdrivers (flat or Phillips, depending on the design of the toilet);
transitional cuff made of rubber 123x100 (if you need to connect to a cast-iron socket);
a set of fasteners for installing a toilet bowl (if it is not included in the kit);
rags and a container for draining the remaining water from the old toilet.

Before you install the toilet, you need to do some preparatory work. For example, you need to decide how exactly to connect the new toilet bowl with the sewer socket. The following options are possible:

Corrugated cuff. This method is the most economical, but in this case the toilet cannot be attached close to the socket. This matters if the bathroom is small.
Straight cuff. It firmly and hermetically connects the bowl of the structure with the socket of the sewer system.
Eccentric cuff. It is convenient if the connection centers of the system and the socket are displaced.

Next, it is advisable to replace the old flexible water supply. The choice of liner is based on the distance from the connections on the cold water pipe to the connection of the toilet filler mechanism. To this length should be added 15-20 cm.

If necessary, you need to pre-purchase adapters for threads at the junctions of flax or FUM tape.

In the case when a wooden stand has been preserved under the old toilet, it must be removed. A nail puller or puncher will help with this. The resulting void can be sealed with a cement composition, preferably a quick solidification, and a spatula.

Video - Self-installation of the toilet

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

First you need to turn off the water. Disconnect the flexible hose, flush the toilet.
Then you need to unfasten the drain tank. You can carefully, or you can use a hammer (in case the old toilet is no longer needed).
You can quickly remove the toilet bowl with a hammer and a perforator.

Carefully, so that the fragments do not fall into the sewer system, use tools at the place where the toilet bowl is attached to the floor and the junction of the device with the sewer. Then the old bowl must be removed, pouring out the water that remains.

Wood plank removal and floor leveling

After the old toilet is removed, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer socket from dirt and rust. Install a rubber transitional cuff 123x100 into the socket, pre-coated with sanitary sealant.
Then plug the hole with a rag so that odors do not interfere with further work.
Next, you need to remove the wooden board and fill the resulting void with repair staff.
Align with a spatula to the level of the floor.

Marking and installation of dowels

Put the bowl of the new toilet bowl in the planned place. Mark out through the holes in the bowl on the floor so you can see where to drill. The holes in the toilet bowl are located at an angle, in which case you also need to drill at an angle.
After marking, the toilet can be removed. Next, you need to drill holes in the previously marked places and insert the dowels.

Toilet cistern attachment

In accordance with the instructions that came with the toilet, you need to install the fittings for the drain tank. There are some peculiarities in this procedure.
Tighten the drain and fill valve nuts by hand while holding the valve itself, thereby preventing it from turning and damaging the gasket.
The valves must be installed so that during operation the moving elements do not touch each other and the walls of the tank.
In case of uncertainty, a sanitary sealant should be used as the walls of the tank and gaskets.

The drain mechanism is available in a collapsible type to facilitate the installation process.

Installing the toilet bowl

The connecting cuff is attached with a petal part to the adapter cuff 123x100, inserted into the socket pre-treated with sealant. The outlet of the toilet bowl is inserted into the adapter sleeve until it stops.
It is necessary to turn the cuff so that the toilet bowl takes a flat position, and all the holes of the fasteners coincide.
The bowl is fixed to the floor surface with screws with plastic washers. In cases where the floor surface is uneven, use spacers made of pieces of plastic to level the toilet before finally tightening it.

Connecting the bowl and drain tank

Before you install the drain tank on the bowl of the structure, you need to put a gasket between them. For reliability and to avoid displacement of the gasket, it is better to glue it to the bowl with sealant in advance.
After attaching the tank to the bowl, tighten the screws evenly. After that, install the tank lid and the drain button. Then fix the flexible eyeliner.

System Function Check

At the end of all work, you need to check - draw water into the tank and make a test drain. The amount of drained water can be adjusted, how to do this is written in the instructions.
Inspect all components for any leaks. If they occur, check the tensile strength and, if necessary, disassemble the assembly, re-treat with sealant, then tighten properly.
If the cause is a defective part, purchase a new part and replace it.

Final stage

Install the toilet seat and fill the gaps between the toilet and the floor surface with sealant.

Doing such work with your own hands is not difficult if you follow the above recommendations and rules. Good luck!

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:

aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. In high humidity, aluminum braid is prone to rust.
Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - to hot water.

When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, columns and other types of equipment, flexible connections are also used. Unlike models for water, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.

Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.

Reasons for waterlogging the soil

There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:

clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
high occurrence of groundwater;
technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
violation of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case, precipitation and water inflow from higher places play an important role.

What causes excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?

the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and nutrition in the soil;
oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.

Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs

Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
the optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need site drainage?

Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in an apartment building, an industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the act of testing the internal sewerage and drain systems will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the act of testing internal sewerage systems and drains according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the "D" series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Installing a toilet is a responsible process that is best left to the professionals. However, this is not always possible, so knowing how to install this important item in the toilet room yourself will not be superfluous. At first glance, the procedure is optimally simple. You just need to connect the toilet to the pipes with water, sewage and securely fasten. And how this whole procedure actually looks like will be discussed below.

Process Features

In fact, the correct installation of the toilet, of course, is a complicated matter. However, if you understand its technology, you can install a toilet bowl with high quality and save on plumbing services. At the same time, it will turn out to grow in their own eyes. Recently, the number of toilet models has increased significantly, if you wish, you can find one that will not seem difficult to install.

Together with them, in addition to the traditional mounting method, other mounting methods appeared. For example, now the method when the tank is hidden in the wall has become especially popular. Wall-mounted toilet bowls have also become widespread, which are mounted directly on the wall, completely freeing the floor. Such models look very interesting, they are no more difficult to mount than models with floor mounts.

Also, the installation of the toilet bowl is affected by the type of attachment, flush, supply of the sewer pipe, its dimensions. Particular attention is paid to the evenness of the surface on which it is planned to install plumbing. That is why it is better to think over in advance the model of the toilet bowl and the type of room in which you will have to mount it yourself. This is especially true for toilets and bathrooms in new buildings. It is worth considering the size of the room so that the installation is easy and correct.

When installing toilets in apartments or houses where there is already a toilet, you should also consider dismantling the old product, as well as repairing it. Another point that you should think about in advance is the availability of all the necessary tools, including a puncher, screwdrivers, dowels. When purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the bowl and tank before packing it. The product must be free of chips and cracks. They can cause leakage of a new product.

Particular attention should be paid to the internal cavities, as well as the release of the toilet bowl. It will not be superfluous to clarify what the complete set consists of. For example, when buying in a store, you should ask the seller if there is a seat in it, fasteners to the floor or wall. If something is missing, it is better to immediately purchase all the missing items. This will allow installation without any problems.

Types of structures

There are a lot of types of toilet bowls, as well as the parameters by which they are divided. This often leads to customer confusion. From all this variety, you need to choose one toilet bowl. At the same time, it is desirable that it fits perfectly into the toilet room.

By size, toilets are divided into:

universal, the most widespread model;
children's, which, with their small size, are very convenient for children;
for people with disabilities, different designs.

According to the type of installation, toilet bowls are of two types.

Floor, the fixation of which is carried out to the floor. This type is divided into corner and wall.
Suspended. Such models are mounted on the wall with the help of special fasteners (installation). They are called wall-mounted or built-in.

An important point is the compatibility of the wall-mounted toilet with the installation. The dimensions of the installation should be selected based on its location. In addition, the installation allows you to install not only a toilet, but also a bidet.

Installations are:

block, which are mounted only on a load-bearing wall;
framed, which can be mounted anywhere.

By attaching the toilet to the sewer, several separate types are also distinguished.

with horizontal outlet

Such toilets are connected to the sewer only at an angle of 95 degrees. Such models are especially convenient when the sewer pipe passes through the wall. However, with the help of a corrugated pipe, the toilet bowl can be equally easily attached to the floor. This species originally received its distribution in Europe, and not so long ago with us.

with vertical

These designs are the most common, behind this name are the most common toilets that are connected to the sewer socket in the floor. Most often, such models are found in stalinkas built in the middle of the twentieth century.

With oblique

Such toilets are attached to the sewer pipe at an angle of 45 degrees. These designs can be seen in all the houses that were built at the end of the last century.

Flushing the toilet is one of the highlights.

According to how the drain tank is installed, toilet bowl designs are divided into three types.

Hinged, which is mounted on the wall.
A cistern mounted on a toilet. This model can be called traditional and immediately recognizable. It is easy to install from above.
A hidden cistern is built into the wall, thereby freeing up the room and making it even more attractive.

According to the location of the drain hole, plumbing products are divided into two types.

With rear drain

In such models, water from the tank flows down the back wall of the bowl. The advantage of such a drain is that the flow of water is stronger, which means it cleans the bowl better. It is worth considering that the back wall will always be dirtier, and there will be more splashes on the front. It is necessary to clean the bowls of such toilet bowls exclusively using household chemicals.

With circular

Water enters the toilet bowl through several holes, so the entire surface is washed more evenly. Of course, in these models, cleaning the rear wall is worse, but in general, there is less splashing.

The supply of water to the tank can be in different ways and also affects the installation of the toilet. It comes in the bottom, side and back.

By the way the water mirror is located, three types can be distinguished at once.

Funnel-shaped, when the mirror of water is exactly in the middle of the bowl. This model has 1 significant drawback in the form of water splashes during its use.
With a shelf, it is distinguished by the presence of a visor in front of a water mirror. This design leads to the spread of unpleasant odors.
With a sloping back wall, the water surface comes to the fore, minimizing splashes and unpleasant odours. Experts recommend opting for this particular model.

According to the drain in the upper cisterns, toilet bowls can be divided into three main types.

Bell

The bell is a cast-iron tank, which is attached to the toilet with a steel pipe. Inside it is made of a lever, a chain, a bell (a cast-iron cork with a gasket at the bottom). Rising, the bell passes water into the drain pipe. As soon as the chain is released, the cork drops. Among the shortcomings of this model, one can note the need to replace the gasket every few years. Another unpleasant moment is the accumulation of rust and deposits that impair draining.

Corrugation

The corrugation works when a rope is pulled on a lever. The corrugation bends, the water is sucked in. While the rope is released, the bell of the corrugation is tilted until all the water in the tank is completely drained. Of the problems with this design, it is worth noting a leak at the base of the corrugation, which forms after several years of use.

Pear

The pear is characteristic of all modern drain systems. The principle of operation of the design is based on the fact that the lever or button is pressed, the stem rises, the pear leaves the saddle, water flows. Despite the variety of saddle and pear shapes, the disadvantages of this design are common. The most basic problem is the reduction of rubber elasticity, which leads to leakage. Another disadvantage is related to the contamination of the seat with deposits, which also causes leakage.

Toilets can be classified according to the material of the seat(plastic), case material (san faience, san porcelain, metal, natural stone), design and even color. Some models are equipped with a microlift. This is one of the handy features.

Location selection

The layout of the toilet room should begin with the choice of a toilet bowl. It is necessary to take into account all its features. Only after that it is worth proceeding to further actions. Of course, if there is an old toilet, it must be dismantled. Most likely, the room will still have to be overhauled. And it includes updating the sewer line, floor screed, cladding.

Before installation, you need to estimate the dimensions of the new plumbing fixture. This will allow you to understand how best to place it: in the center of the room or closer to the wall. It may be better to mount it on the wall or move it close to the bathroom. It is necessary to determine the height at which it is better to install the toilet. Today, modern models are able to satisfy any whim in this regard.

The unconventional location of the sewer pipe can be a difficult task. Therefore, it is worth foreseeing the best options in advance. Perhaps it is worth deploying or extending the pipe itself, or maybe it would be better to choose a non-standard plumbing model. Of course, ideally, if the toilet can be connected vertically at an angle of 90 degrees. It is worth remembering that it is better if there are as few intermediate parts between the toilet and the sewer as possible.

You can draw a diagram of the location of the toilet and other items in the toilet. So it will become more clear whether you need an angular placement of the structure or you can get by with the generally accepted standard. In modern new buildings, everything is simple. After all, here the toilet is installed from scratch, all communications are summed up taking into account various models. In the old Khrushchevs, everything is clearly more complicated.

Dismantling the old

When the new toilet has already been selected, the location is known, as well as its main characteristics, it is worth moving on to the next step in the form of dismantling the old toilet. Most often, you have to clean floor-mounted toilets that are attached to the floor. You can easily and quickly deal with such a task yourself. There is no need to go to the master.

It’s worth starting by turning off the water and draining it from the tank into the toilet bowl. Then you need to unscrew the hose that goes from the drain to the tank. Next, unscrew the fasteners of the tank. If they do not lend themselves, it is worth using special tools. They are applied to fasteners (for about 6 minutes), completely dissolving lime or rust during this time.

Of course, you can do without such funds. For example, using a wrench or a screwdriver to break the mounting bolts is easier. If the old toilet is planned to be thrown away, then the problem of poor detachment of the tank can be solved with a hammer. After the tank mounts are unscrewed, you should go to the toilet bowl mounts. Often they look like a nut screwed on an anchor. To facilitate the unscrewing process, you can use the methods described above.

When all fasteners are unscrewed, it is necessary to disconnect the toilet drain from the sewer. In old toilets, as a rule, the place where the drain is attached to the sewer pipe was coated with cement. If so, you will have to remove the cement with a screwdriver and hammer. And you need to start with a coating that runs across the seam.

Next, you should swing the drain, but leave it in place. The toilet must be moved in different directions in order to finally drain the water remaining in the knee. It is necessary to disconnect the neck from the sewer pipe. This is not always easy: sometimes the toilet may be glued with cement mortar to the floor. In this case, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, the pedestal is broken off in parts.

Now the toilet should easily unhook, it can be taken to the trash. If desired, you can chop with a sledgehammer to make it easier to take out. Another important point is to plug the sewer hole with a plastic or wooden plug. This will allow you to work without unpleasant odors.

After the old toilet is dismantled, you should evaluate the condition of the pipes. For example, before installing a new design, experts recommend replacing a cast-iron pipe with a new plastic one. Modern pipes can greatly facilitate the installation of the toilet. Perhaps it is better to replace an uneven pipe with a direct analogue in order to make it easier to mount the toilet to the sewer drain.

How to install: step by step guide

Installing a toilet yourself is not at all difficult if you follow a small step-by-step guide. Moreover, to install the toilet on the floor and wall, the most important thing is a flat and prepared surface for fastening. For installation, it is worth preparing a number of tools in advance.

The main list includes:

perforator;
wrench;
spanners;

a hammer;
sealant;
screwdrivers;
roulette;
flexible hose.

The toilet cistern is supplied as a kit fully assembled or disassembled. In the second case, it will need to be assembled before installation. It is best to start the installation by decomposing all the parts to make sure they are present. Following the instructions from the toilet manufacturer, you need to assemble the inside of the tank. The steps may differ depending on the type of drain system. It is worth double-checking the reliability of fixing parts, but without undue effort, especially when tightening screws and bolts.

On the floor

Floor-standing toilets are somewhat easier to install than wall-mounted ones. Yes, and while they remain still more popular. Determine the coverage and evenness of the floor in the toilet room. Installing a toilet on the floor is different, based on the floor covering. For example, on a tiled floor there is no need for additional leveling.

If a tile is laid on the base, but it is not completely even, it is better to install using chopsticks and screws. If the toilet is installed in a new building where there is no finish, it is better to fill in the screed and then lay the tile. If a wooden stand was located under the old toilet, it should be dismantled. The resulting empty space should be filled with cement (preferably one that hardens quickly). In the event that the floor cannot be completely leveled, it is possible to increase the tightness during installation using a sealant.

They clean the sewer pipe from debris and deposits, install a tap on the water pipe (if it is not there) to shut off the water to the tank. Connect the toilet drain to the sewer pipe. You can do this in one of several ways.

The junction of the toilet bowl with the sewer is best sealed with silicone sealant. This will ensure that water does not get under the toilet when washing the floor. If the toilet bowl is connected to a cast-iron pipe, it is best to use an adapter collar with a diameter of 110 mm. Before use, a sealant is abundantly applied to it, then it is inserted into a cast-iron pipe. It is worth emphasizing that before this it is imperative to clean the pipe from contamination.

You can do this with a corrugated cuff. The main advantage of this method is economy. However, the toilet cannot be closely attached to the socket. This method is best not to choose for small rooms. Using a straight cuff, you can ensure a strong and tight connection between the bowl and the sewer. With the help of an eccentric cuff, it is possible if the centers for connecting the toilet and sewer are displaced. Follow the pre-determined toilet installation method.

For dowels

Try on the product again. Particular attention should be paid to the angle of inclination, as well as how the height of the sewer coincides with the neck. If inconsistencies are identified, they should be eliminated. Circle the seat with a pencil or marker.

Make markup. To do this, determine the central axis of the toilet bowl. It is best if it coincides with the center of the room. With a reference to the axis, it is necessary to install the bowl at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. Make marks for the holes with a marker, which is strictly vertically inserted into the holes for the fasteners.

Prepare mounting holes. To do this, you need to remove the toilet bowl to the side, make holes with a puncher according to the marks. Then it is necessary to clean the holes of debris and pour silicone into them, which in this case is a waterproofing agent. Then you need to insert the dowels.

Install the bowl. A special rubber gasket or a layer of silicone is placed on the outlined place for landing. Then they put the toilet in place and press it to the floor. Bushings are inserted into the holes for fasteners, the screws are tightened without undue effort, fixing everything with plugs. Excess silicone is removed with a rubber spatula or a damp cloth.

For adhesive

You can use silicone glue, liquid sealant, epoxy. This method is only suitable for smooth floors. Conduct markup. To do this, the bowl is placed in the required place and outlined with a pencil.

Prepare the base. You need to start by cleaning the floor and the base of the bowl from various contaminants. In order for the adhesion with the adhesive to be the best, it is necessary to make the surface rough. To do this, it is cleaned with sandpaper. It is also necessary to degrease the base of the toilet bowl and the floor with acetone or solvent.

Prepare the adhesive for work, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply glue to the bottom of the toilet and the inside of the contour on the floor. It should not be applied in too large a layer. Set the bowl in place. Be sure to press it hard to the floor.

Wait for the glue to dry completely. This usually takes at least 12 hours. During this time, it is better not to touch the toilet and not sit down. This will avoid location offsets. The fastening will be stronger.

On taffeta

Taffeta is a gasket made from durable wood. A plumbing structure is attached to it. This method is ideal when installing a toilet on a wooden floor. However, it can also be used on other floors. In addition to wood for taffeta, a rubber backing 5–15 mm thick is sometimes used. For example, you can use an old rubber mat.

Prepare taffeta. To do this, take a board, the thickness of which is 2.8 - 3.2 cm, cut a blank out of it. Then it is treated with drying oil or a solution that can prevent decay. For reliable fastening, anchors are fixed in the workpiece. You can also drive nails in a checkerboard pattern so that they stick out of it by 2 - 3 cm.

Make a recess in the floor to install the toilet. The size and configuration of the recess must fully comply with the dimensions and shape of the taffeta. Fill the hole with cement. Take the taffeta and turn it with the anchors or nails down. Then they lower it into the cement on the floor. If everything is done correctly, the board will be flush with the floor.

Waiting for the cement to dry completely. Install a toilet. To do this, put the bowl on taffeta and fix it with screws, which are pre-lubricated with grease or graphite. Rubber washers should be placed under the screw heads so that the ceramic remains undamaged.

After the toilet is fixed, follow simple instructions.

Install the tank directly on the toilet bowl and mount it with the plastic screws that come with the kit. It is important not to forget to install an O-ring between the tank and the toilet.

Connect flexible conduit. It is advisable to choose a long hose for this. Particular attention should be paid to the diameter of the inlet holes so that the fastening is strong. Do not use excessive force when tightening the union nuts.
Install the cover with the seat and the release button. Instructions for their installation are in the instructions. The technology of work is extremely simple and understandable to everyone.
Do a test run of water. If there is a leak anywhere, tighten the connections.
Adjust the locking mechanism, according to the instructions.

On the wall

You can install toilets on the wall in a private house and apartment. Connecting modern models to the sewer is completely simple.

It is worth noting that such designs can be used even with a vertical sewer outlet.

Assemble the installation frame itself, according to the instructions.
Install the upper stops, which outwardly resemble rods. They are adjusted using a screwdriver and a socket wrench.
Install the bottom stops, similar to plates. Adjust them with a socket wrench.

Adjust the height, for which the already assembled frame is moved to the wall. The center of the frame should be exactly above the middle of the sewer pipe.
The height of the installation is carried out using a bubble level. There is a mark on the frame that should be lowered or raised to the required height. Most often it is 1 m.
Adjust the height of the stops, and also set the distance from the wall indicated in the documents.
Fix the exposed frame reinforcement to the wall. To do this, mark in the necessary places with a pencil or marker. After that, it is necessary to drill holes and install dowel bodies in them. Then install the fasteners themselves, after putting them on the sealant.

Install branch pipes, as well as couplings in a fixed installation. They are fixed in place.
Install metal rods. They will be attached to the toilet bowl. They are screwed into special sockets, then silicone seals are put on top.
Extend the sewer pipe to the required distance and fix it with a bracket. It must be inserted into the groove until it clicks.
Connect the water supply to the tank. To do this, open the tank lid and remove the plug on the side surface. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the hole formed. It is connected to the insides with a cap nut. It must be tightened very carefully, since most often the nut is made of plastic.

A tee is installed inside the tank, to which a pipe is connected using an American and an adapter. Also, a flexible hose from the tank is connected to the tee. It is attached with a cap nut.
Close the installation for the toilet with a false wall, for example, from moisture-resistant drywall. As a rule, drywall is attached to the frame and profiles.
Finish the wall and hang the toilet bowl. Install a decorative panel for the drain device.
They put the toilet bowl on the pins, the outlet of the bowl hermetically enters the plastic sewer socket.

Before installing and before purchasing a toilet, you should familiarize yourself with the recommendations of experienced plumbers.

By following some rules, many problems can be avoided.

The first thing experts advise to pay attention to is the type of drain. This is especially important if the sewer supply will not change. With the help of adapters, it is especially difficult to make a high-quality connection of a toilet bowl with an inappropriate type of sewer outlet.
Do not postpone the purchase of plumbing at the last moment, and also purchase it after repair. It is better if the place in the toilet room is prepared for a specific toilet model in advance. This will simplify the installation of plumbing.

You should refuse to save on bolts and anchors. It is better to choose nickel-plated fasteners. They don't rust. This will save the product in the future from ugly streaks, as well as sticking of bolts.
An eccentric cuff, which is called a corrugation, will help compensate for the difference in floor height before and after repair. To supply water to the tank, it is better to use a flexible hose.
In the case when the sewer pipe leaves through the floor, it is worth using a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff.

Ideal for installation when the toilet drain will be connected to the sewer without any cuffs and other additional elements. For sealing, a ring with a rubberized border can be used.

If the floor in the toilet is uneven, the toilet should be installed using silicone sealant.

Plumbers recommend using small wedges made of wood or plastic. However, with them it is also necessary to use a sealant to evenly distribute the weight of the toilet bowl. When installing a toilet bowl on old cast iron, it is better to use a sealant.

If the water supply is old, it should definitely be replaced. When choosing an eyeliner, you need to know the distance from the junctions on the pipe with water to the attachment to the toilet bowl. Then you need to replace the old flexible water supply. And 15 - 20 cm should also be added to it. Adapters for threads at the joints or FUM tape should be purchased in advance.

When installing the toilet on a tile, the surface must be scored to avoid cracks.

To do this, make marks in the right places. A self-tapping screw is attached to them and hit with a hammer several times. After that, you can drill a tile with a puncher or drill, but only without shock mode.

If the sewer riser is made of cast iron, it must be stripped down to metal, then thoroughly washed and dried. After that, a sealant is applied to a dry and clean metal surface. And you need to put it down a little more. After that, it must be connected to the corrugation.

You can also apply sealant to the outer part of the joint.

In order to easily and without damage remove the corrugation connecting the toilet bowl and the sewer, its exit and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with wet soap. And only after this procedure is put on a sewer socket.
Before you make marks with a marker through the holes in the sole of the bowl, you need to sit on it and check how comfortable it is. If necessary, you need to immediately correct the position.
Do not use plastic dowels that come with toilet bowls. They break quickly, so it is better to give preference to other fasteners.

An additional insert in an old cast-iron sewer pipe can be removed with a perforator or burned out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. It is possible to burn out if the cavity was filled with sulfur or clogged with a cable. Before burning it is necessary to take care of sufficient ventilation of the room, remove all flammable means and materials.