Edging is a basic step in the process of manufacturing cabinet furniture from slab materials. The article about the easiest way to edge was shown - manually, using ordinary household tools. There are highly specialized tools designed for cutting edges that can make the work of a furniture maker much easier and faster.
Tool for end (end) edge trimming WEGOMA KG94.
The tool allows you to quickly and accurately cut the end of melamine, PVC or ABS edges up to 1.2 mm thick and up to 54 mm wide with one click.
The KG94 is made of durable plastic and equipped with two removable knives that work on the principle of scissors. If necessary, the lower parts can be replaced with new ones or sharpened. The fixed knife is adjustable in terms of reach and installation angle, this allows you to set a minimum, uniform gap between the cutting edges of the knives to obtain a high-quality cut.
Photo of the KG94 trimmer from different sides.
Operation of the lever and knives.
The KG94 trimmer is installed on the part.
To perform trimming, you need to press the lever.
Pruner KG94 in the process of trimming. The lever is partially pressed.
Edge trimmed with tool KG94
In the photo, the yellow one is melamine edge, “Wenge” is ABS.
If the adjacent end of the part had a glued edge, after trimming sometimes a small amount of glue remains, which is easily removed solvent or mechanically.
Tool for longitudinal edge trimming WEGOMA AU93.
The tool is designed for double-sided longitudinal cutting of edges up to 0.5 mm thick and up to 40 mm wide. For each edge overhang, two knives work: the main knife cuts off the overhang (excess) of the edge flush with the face of the part, the other one removes an angular chamfer from the edge edge and/or cleans up possible flaws in the work of the first knife.
Structurally, AU93 consists of two mirror-identical plastic elements - half-bodies, connected to each other through two guide bushings with springs inside. Each half-body has three removable, adjustable knives, which allows you to work with the tool on either side, or adjust the sides to work with edge materials of different thicknesses. The main double knife has an adjustment for contact with the face. Additional two chamfering knives are adjustable for reach.
Photo of the AU93 trimmer from different sides.
Disassembled longitudinal trimmer. The smaller the edge width, the more the springs have to be compressed. When working with laminated chipboards up to 18 mm thick, it makes sense to use weaker springs or remove them altogether.
Half body. The main knife adjustment screw is visible.
Adjustment screw of one of the additional knives.
Set of new knives for AU93.
A similar kit can be purchased for the KG94 end trimmer.
The minimum possible thickness of the workpiece is 14 mm.
WEGOMA AU93 at work. The edge is melamine (yellow) and ABS (Wenge).
Melamine and ABS edges are cut to length.
Based on the results of using these WEGOMA tools in the production of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboards, the following conclusions can be drawn.
End trimmer WEGOMA KG94 is a universal, useful and necessary tool. It can be safely recommended to any furniture maker who still uses a knife. The edger works equally well with melamine, PVC and ABS edges, as well as with HPL plastic used for edging kitchen worktops. With sharp and adjusted knives, the cut is perfect or close to perfect, requiring only light sanding with an emery block.
Longitudinal edge trimmer WEGOMA AU93 does not always show excellent results in practice. When working with melamine edges, the tool often leaves a subtle but tactile step that must be sanded down. Adjusting the main cutter knives did not lead to the desired result. On an ABS edge, the step problem is virtually non-existent. Additional knives do not justify themselves at all; they work with varying success, depending on the force of pressing the half-shells to the material and the point of application of this force. An important advantage of the AU93 longitudinal trimmer is that it allows you to comfortably work with long, large-sized parts in any spatial position.
Everyone knows a fact that often occurs when edgebanding is the melting of PVC edges, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.
There is a problem of wave-like formation on edges with a thickness of 2 mm after scraping, peeling of the edge from the part, lumpy edges of 0.4 mm, whitishness of the edges and many other problems.
It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case more deeply than to attribute everything to the quality of the edges.
So first we should consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of defects at this stage in detail, we are talking about the use of exclusively PVC edges.
The process consists of several stages:
Gluing
Trimming
Milling overhangs
Cycling
Polishing
Gluing PVC edges.
Regardless of the type of machine, edge gluing is done using melt glue.
The likelihood of marriage occurring at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:
Carry out the most suitable settings by trial and experiment
Select a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature
Take into account the parameters of laminated chipboard (humidity, friability)
The edge melts when glued.
If you use a feed speed of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply an edge that is more heat-resistant, and it must be taken into account that the permissible temperatures declared by edge suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape and not to the part. We recommend changing the operating temperature of the glue bath.
After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, surface roughness appears:
A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the incorrect selection of hot melt glue.
The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right hot melt adhesive. Lumpiness on the surface appears at a low chipboard density with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.
The problem can be corrected by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the bumpiness will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.
When gluing, an uneven surface is formed due to the indentation of the chipboard structure:
This problem is easily solved. Simply move out the additional pressure rollers.
The seam between the edge and the end of the part is too noticeable.
When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled hot melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the glue to visually merge the adhesive seam of the edge and the chipboard.
The edge is melted on curved parts.
This problem is also worth looking at from the point of view of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.
For example, for manual machines, when the part moves around a stationary gluing unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.
For equipment with automatic feeding, when the workpiece moves around the gluing unit at a constant speed of 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. The use of polyurethane adhesives is recommended when the adhesive unit is manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edge tape.
Overhang milling, scraping.
After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.
This problem occurs when the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.
Increase the cutter speed and reduce the edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.
There are chips on the edges of the edge.
Chips on a PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.
They may indicate that the rotation speed of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both.
Polishing.
In order to ensure that the edge is well polished and all remaining chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel and applying a release liquid to the surface of the chipboard.
Conclusion:
Based on the above, we recommend that when changing suppliers, you do not immediately attribute poor edgebanding to .
In order to make sure that the edge is not suitable, you need to check its use on several modes/machines, check whether the temperature and feed speed are set correctly, take into account the composition of the glue and much more.
Of course, the quality of the edges primarily influences the cladding process. Based on many years of experience in the supply of edge strips, we recommend that when choosing materials you base your choice not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.
So, in order not to spoil the product/part at the edge banding stage, you must:
Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges
Pay attention to how long the importer has been working on the market
How many suppliers/factories does the importer have (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).
We offer to solve your problems at the edgebanding stage.
You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the “LUX” edge, and save without loss of quality by using the “STANDARD” PVC edge. ().
We are happy to solve any problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program/in production, we will accept a full refund.
We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edge materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.
Although it worked well, there was still minimal play in the sole (no more than 0.3-0.5 mm), which sometimes played tricks on me in such a delicate matter as removing overhangs.
Immediately I came across a Makita 3707 edge maker in a pawn shop for only 2500 rubles, so I simply couldn’t pass it up. It did not have a special edge base for removing overhangs, like the rest of the equipment, so it required modification quite traditionally. That is, the formation of a “step”.
To make this step, this time I used a piece of 8 mm plexiglass, which I found in the trash)) Previously it was a chair, now it will be a router (I now regret that I did not collect all the large pieces). The marking is carried out with a sharp awl. 
It cuts perfectly on a table saw. That is, we give it a rectangular shape. 
We smooth the edges of the cut using a belt sander. 
At the end adjacent to the cutter we form a trapezoid. It would be necessary to make a triangle so that any internal radii could be processed, but then the rigidity of the sole would suffer, so I figured that small radii were rare and did not bother. 
Applying it to the sole, mark and drill out the mounting holes. We recess them to hide the screw heads. We check this moment separately so that nothing protrudes. 
We fix the part to the sole (in all available technological holes). 
I held it in my hands - it’s not very comfortable - there’s not enough handle on the sole. In its capacity, I took a handle from a router, which was used as a . The nut is driven in.
The nut also had to be hidden. To do this, I used a 25 mm Forstner cutter to drill a niche 2 mm deep. 
I drilled 4 holes in it for the nut antennae. The photo didn't turn out very well). 
The nut protruded from the back side, and the length of the screw was excessive, so I cut it out of a fragment and glued a lining under the handle with glue... It didn’t turn out as neatly as intended, but God bless him.... 
The handle also had to be supplemented with a flat nut (from an Ikea table) 
The result is a fairly rigid structure. 
It is not without its shortcomings (I already wrote about the “corner”...) The aesthetic component also suffered... Of course, it would be necessary to smooth out the right angles and edges, I think I’ll do this in the near future, otherwise “on the garage fell at night - didn’t have time))))) 
Now there will be a series of test work. If it doesn’t play like the previous one, then I’ll leave it unchanged. If you don’t like it, I’ll make a two-layer sole. The first layer will cover the entire sole, and I will screw the second one from below, at the same time sharpening the tip. It will be more reliable this way.
