Shaping plants is a fun and fun way to transform an ornamental tree or shrub that will make a great accent in your garden. No wonder many landscape designers use a variety of plant forms to create a garden.
Today, in many garden centers you can find sheared plants of various shapes. Their formation requires a lot of experience, knowledge, patience and not everyone can do it. How to properly form ornamental plants? What's the secret? In the right selection of plants.
Where to begin?
First of all, it is important choose a seat on which the plant will be located. When choosing a site, it is important to take into account not only your personal preferences, but also the microclimate of the garden.
It is worth choosing for a plant such an area of \u200b\u200bthe garden that is well lit by sunlight. This is one of the most important conditions, otherwise you will not achieve a dense form in the plant. Being in the shade, the leaves of the tree become smaller, and the crown becomes loose. Also, planting an ornamental shrub in a well-lit place will greatly reduce the likelihood of internal decay of crown branches.
Shrub selection
Why is the wrong choice of shrub dangerous? If you are not very responsible in choosing a plant, then all your time and energy, unfortunately, will be wasted.
When choosing a shrub of a certain shape, I recommend that you first think about the appropriateness of the purchase. Remember: it is impossible to create a small form from a tall bush, just as a huge ball cannot be obtained from a low-growing shrub.
In addition, the selection of plants must be carried out, taking into account the climatic features of your region. So, one of the most popular plants for cutting - boxwood - does not tolerate winters near Moscow.
It is advisable to select plants that lend themselves well to shearing, forming a dense and dense crown, abundantly branching and covered with dense foliage.
I will list you some of the many species of plants that are ideal for cutting and shaping the original crown:
common privet;
European euonymus;
barberry thunberg;
small-leaved elm;
hawthorn single-petal;
purple willow;
cotoneaster shiny;
sod white;
thuja western;
viburnum red;
Canadian game;
ginnal maple
First you need to pick up deciduous shrubs - such samples have an excellent growth rate. This fact makes it possible to significantly speed up the creation of the desired figure.
Coming to first haircut, you should not immediately set a strict form: you need to cut off only one third of the growth. The main goal of 1-2 haircuts is to increase the number of shoots on a young plant. As soon as the shrub acquires the required size, suitable for the intended shape, you can begin to form the future figure. It is very important to remember that each subsequent cut is made slightly higher than the previous one. If you do not follow this rule, cutting at the same level every year, then in the end the plant will lose its former splendor, only bare branches will remain. Landscape specialists recommend spring time for shearing deciduous shrubs. March and April are considered optimal times for mid-latitudes. Also, a similar procedure can be repeated after autumn leaf fall. Plant pruning is performed approximately 2-3 times a year, taking into account the biological characteristics of flowering, as well as the specifics of budding. Pruning of coniferous trees should be done in early spring, or at the end of June - after the growth of young shoots has stopped.
Armed with a special tool, you can choose a shape and start implementing the idea.
Options for the formation of ornamental plants
Ball
Would you like to see globular plants in your garden? In this case, select the following shrubs: purple willow, white derain, brilliant cotoneaster, gray spirea, thuja western "Smaragd" or "Brabant".
In reality, the ball is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. It requires an excellent eye and maximum patience. At the first stage, use auxiliary means. For example, you can buy a finished design. A wire semicircle is attached to the main rod in such a blank, its radius is selected according to the size of the future ball.
You can create a similar blank on your own, using ordinary wire. To help the beginner, there are many plants that have a natural spherical crown, for example, western thuja "Globosa", "Hoseri", "Danica", and they only need to be trimmed slightly.
Before cutting, determine the "equator" (center) of the ball, as well as four "meridians". Further, using these dimensions, you can start cutting the crown in the remaining sections of the shrub.
Cube
When choosing the desired cube size, consider the plant variety, the number of shrubs, and the author's idea. The valid range is 1 to 5 or more. It is important to remember that in the process of growth a full-fledged plant is formed, starting from which the formation of the future green cube will be carried out.
If you decide to plant five young seedlings, which should form a square shape with one bush in the center, do not forget that at the base of the cube the square is larger than the one that will be formed by the planting holes. For this form, you can choose common privet, brilliant cotoneaster. The density of the crown of a shrub affects the beauty of the figure, so do not allow the crown to be “loose”. To avoid such troubles, it is enough to follow a few simple rules. For example, the density of the crown gives a cutting of the shoot directly above the bud, looking inward. With the help of such a trick, you can achieve an increase in the size of the entire shrub, giving the crown density and splendor.
Pyramid
Given the number of edges you want to see, draw an equilateral triangle or square on the ground around the plant. Reiki are placed at the tops of the drawn figure, they must be fastened on top in an imaginary center. Next, the side ribs of the future pyramid are outlined.
Shearing is performed immediately along all planes of the faces. Any error in shaping will result in an extra haircut. To obtain a beautiful and even pyramidal figure, it is worth choosing dense small-leaved plants (cotoneaster brilliant, common privet).
At the stage of mastering the haircut, to facilitate it, choose the western “Smaragd”, which has a natural cone-shaped crown.
Cone
The principle of organization and preparation of work is the same as that of the pyramid. At the base, instead of a triangle and a square, a circle is drawn, then slats are installed, which again must be fastened in the center. The more accurately you want to get a figure, the more rails you need to take.
First, a haircut is performed along the guide rails, then smoothly rise up (towards the center). The radius must be determined already from the first haircut - the formation of the future crown depends on it. If it is planned to give the shape of a cone to the crown of the tree, then when pruning, we do not touch the lower branches and the vertical axial shoot. But the side shoots are regularly cut to achieve the intended shape.
If you follow the simple rules listed above, then your plants will definitely get the desired shape. Proper care will allow you to enjoy curly shrubs for many years.
These are the most basic and quite easily obtained forms of the crown. We will talk about more complex forms, such as spirals, umbrellas, arches, trellises, next time.
Growing seedlings of ungrafted shrubs
When growing shrubs, the goal is to form plants with many, regularly branched shoots coming from the root collar (Fig. 1). To do this, in the second year after planting, in early spring, before the start of sap flow, the shrubs are cut with secateurs at a distance of 3-5 cm from the root neck (landing "on a stump"). As a result of such pruning, additional shoots develop from the buds located at the root neck, which is of great importance when growing such shrub species that naturally branch very weakly (yellow acacia, lilac, honeysuckle, viburnum, hawthorn).
Rice. 1. Formation of shrub seedlings: a - laying the crown, b - stem, c - buds from which the crown will develop, d - seedling with thickening shoots, e - seedling with stem, cleared of thickening shoots
The next year, also in early spring, the plants are pruned again, but not the entire bush, but only the wildly growing shoots by 1/3-1/4 of their length. This contributes to the emergence of new and development of existing shoots. By the autumn of the third year, the grown seedlings, as a rule, reach the size required for planting them in a group or for use in hedges. The cultivation of the usual basic forms of shrubs thus ends in the first school. Sometimes shrubs are cut to a stump before planting in a school, while shortening the root system. This method is easier and less expensive than planting seedlings on a stump in the second year of their stay at school. Short cut seedlings before planting are recommended to be planted in school from the first half of September to the first half of October. This allows them to take root well until the end of the growing season and give a friendly growth in the spring. Some shrubs - red elderberry, yellow acacia and others - develop only one shoot after such a planting. When it reaches 15 cm, it is pinched to cause the lateral buds to sprout. In the second year, in early spring, one-year-old shoots are cut in seedlings for three or four eyes to cause additional branching. In the third year, only highly developed shoots are pinched to give the bushes the correct shape. Most climbing shrubs (lianas) are propagated by lignified cuttings. They are transplanted to school mainly in the form of rooted cuttings, less often (lemongrass) - in the form of seedlings. Creeper care consists in installing supports for tying plants and protecting some of them, for example, cultivars of grapes, clematis, etc., from frost. To do this, in the fall, the shoots are removed from the supports, they are wrapped around them at the very surface of the soil, and they are covered with a layer of earth up to 30 cm thick from above. In early spring, the shoots are opened, raised on stakes and tied up in several places. Planting vines on a stump is not practiced, it is used in case of freezing of shoots or their weak growth.
A feature of growing coniferous shrubs - bush forms of arborvitae, juniper, yew - is regular and abundant watering until full survival, especially in summer in hot, dry weather. To prevent sunburn, seedlings are covered with shields. Pruning on the stump of coniferous shrubs is not used.
For repair plantings, instead of dead shrubs, more developed and powerful ones are required, which are grown in the second school by selecting the most developed plants from those dug out in the first school. Selected seedlings are planted in the second school in a square way according to the 1X1 m scheme. An additional 2-3 years are required to grow such shrubs. Particular attention is paid to the care of fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Shrubs are not subjected to special molding pruning.
Architectural forms of shrubs
In order to grow shrubs with a crown of architectural shape - spherical, pyramidal, cone-shaped, columnar, cubic - strongly branching, mostly slow-growing rocks are used, which retain the shape given to them for a very long time. The most suitable for this are hawthorn, cotoneaster brilliant, common privet, silver sucker, boxwood, common juniper, thuja western and eastern, etc.
These shrubs are transplanted in early spring to the second school in a square way, the distance between plants is 1.25X1.25 m. After transplanting, the shrubs are subjected to strong molding pruning, giving the crown the intended shape. As a result, young shoots appear near the cut point, which are slightly cut or minted at the end of June for stronger branching. In the early spring of the next year, the same pruning is made a second time (slightly higher than the first), and in the summer - a small chasing. After each pruning, the plants are fed and watered. Such operations are carried out within one to two years, which makes it possible to grow bushes with a compact dense crown of the required shape in 3-4 years (Fig. 2).
Rice. 2. Pruning shrub seedlings for architectural molding: a - first pruning, b - bush after pruning, c - second pruning, d - bush in autumn after the second pruning
The easiest to form in the form of a cone or pyramid is the western thuja, eastern thuja, single-pest hawthorn; in the form of a column - common juniper; in the form of a ball - small-leaved mock orange, privet, spirea, cotoneaster, boxwood, etc.
Growing seedlings of grafted forms of shrubs
Grafted forms of shrubs are widely used in green building and ornamental gardening. These include many types and varieties of roses, lilacs, Buldenezh, Chinese almonds, hawthorns and a number of others. Grafted "shrubs on the territory of the mother garden are grown together with ungrafted, but separate solid plots or separate rows in one school. If grafted stem-shaped shrubs are grown (for example, weeping acacia or gooseberry on yellow acacia), rootstocks are transplanted to a second school, where they are ennobled and form their crown.
All about pruning and grafting trees and shrubs Gorbunov Viktor Vladimirovich
Shaping and pruning ornamental shrubs
Ornamental shrubs with their profuse flowering, wonderful foliage or graceful needles play a big role in decorating any style of garden.
Some novice gardeners mistakenly believe that ornamental shrubs do not require special care after planting in the garden, but they do not need pruning at all. However, it is not. All ornamental shrubs require timely and proper pruning, aimed at removing dead and damaged shoots, curbing rapid growth and forming a beautiful crown (by cutting and thinning), stimulating flowering, as well as rejuvenating old bushes.
The main task of pruning ornamental shrubs is to achieve the maximum decorative effect, for which these plants are grown in the garden.
Types of ornamental shrubs
The range of ornamental shrubs is very diverse, therefore, the methods of pruning them are different - depending on the characteristics of their species. Therefore, before proceeding with the formation of the crown, you should decide which group by type of pruning this shrub belongs to.
Conventionally, all types of shrubs can be divided into flowering shrubs (this can also include shrubs with beautiful fruits: cotoneaster, barberry, etc.) and decorative deciduous.
Beautiful flowering shrubs are grown for their magnificent flowers, so the main purpose of pruning them is to achieve abundant flowering.
According to the features of pruning, flowering shrubs should be divided into three groups.
First group includes shrubs that do not form strong replacement shoots from the base or lower part of the crown. Annual growths in these shrubs appear along the perimeter of the crown. The most common in garden plots are common viburnum, varietal lilac, cotoneaster, common barberry, skumpia, shadberry, magnolia (star-shaped and Sulange), Japanese quince (henomeles), Syrian hibiscus and many others.
Ornamental shrubs of the first group need minimal pruning. In the first years after planting, it is very important to form the skeleton of the plant from strong branches. To do this, in early spring (during the dormant period), all weak, intersecting and incorrectly located shoots that spoil the appearance of the plant are removed.
Pruning of adult bushes can be limited to the removal of shrunken, damaged and diseased branches. If necessary, some living shoots are also removed or cut in order to maintain the symmetry of the branches and the desired decorative appearance of the bushes.
Second group includes shrubs that flower on last year's shoots (on last year's branch growth). Such shrubs include, for example, weigela, action, large-leaved hydrangea, tamarix (comb), Japanese kerria, colquitsia, stephanandra, forsythia, mock orange, three-lobed almonds, some types of spirea (mainly early flowering - spirea Vangutta, Thunberg, sharp-toothed, nipponskaya , oak-leaved) and others.
Shrubs in this group usually bloom in spring or early summer. Given the rapid growth of these plants, their seedlings should be planted in the garden no older than two to three years of age.
Planted plants are not pruned much - they are limited to removing weak and damaged branches, as well as gentle pruning (by a few centimeters) of skeletal branches to a strong bud. Immediately after flowering, the faded branches of these shrubs are cut off, leaving a strong developing growth, and thin and weak growths are removed.
And in subsequent years, pruning of shrubs of this group should be carried out immediately after flowering. Faded branches are cut off, leaving the best lower young growths and at the same time forming a beautiful crown of the bush to your taste. You should also regularly cut to the base a fourth or fifth of the old branches that have become unproductive - this will ensure the appearance of young powerful shoots from the base of the bush.
It should be noted that the pruning of many shrubs included in the second group has its own nuances. For example, in Japanese kerria, faded branches should be cut to the base or into strong young shoots. Quite strongly should be cut after flowering and three-lobed almonds.
Garden hydrangea (especially at a young age), on the contrary, is cut off purely “cosmetically” - only weak and damaged shoots are removed. And in adult hydrangeas, only a part of the old stems is removed to stimulate the annual formation of strong replacement shoots. At the same time, it is advisable not to cut even faded hydrangea inflorescences from the bush, since in winter they provide some protection to growths and flower buds from frost damage. Therefore, the removal of faded hydrangea inflorescences is best done in early spring.
Third group includes shrubs that flower on current year's growth. Of the common plant species, this group, for example, includes species and forms of spirea that bloom profusely in summer (Bumald's spirea, Japanese, Douglas', loose-leaved), as well as David's budley, tree and paniculate hydrangeas.
In early spring, adult shrubs of this group are pruned heavily so that they have powerful shoots - then they will bloom profusely in summer or early autumn. If this is not done, then the plants will quickly thicken and become neglected. At the same time, without pruning, the quality of flowering of adult shrubs of the third group gradually decreases.
It should be emphasized here that in the first year after planting, young 2-3-year-old seedlings of these shrubs are not pruned as much as in subsequent years (to ensure the normal development of their still weak root system).
After rooting and the formation of a young plant in the future, the shrubs of this group are annually and heavily pruned in early spring. At the same time, all last year's growths of shoots are cut to well-developed buds above the older part of the stem.
If after a few years the main lignified branches thicken, they are thinned out, maintaining the decorative effect of the bush.
This group includes species and forms of ornamental shrubs with original foliage: white-edged form of white svidina, golden form of black elderberry and Bumald's spirea, Thunberg's barberry, red-leaved forms of hazel, barberry, skumpia, vesicle (kalinifolia spirea) and other plants.
Decorative deciduous shrubs it is necessary to prune annually in early spring, and prune quite strongly. This is done in order to cause the active growth of young shoots and their leaves have reached the maximum decorative effect, and the appearance of the bushes has been kept neat.
It should always be remembered that proper pruning is only one of the components of a multifactorial technology for growing ornamental shrubs. Even if they are pruned correctly, however, with an erroneously chosen location in the garden, with improper planting, without timely and regular care (watering, fertilizing, weed removal and soil mulching, pest and disease control, protection of heat-loving plants for the winter) will never the desired result will be obtained.
Impeccable appearance and abundant flowering of ornamental shrubs are achievable only by studying and providing for their needs. Take care of the plants in your garden - only then will they be healthy and beautiful.
Features of pruning ornamental shrubs
Pruning of shrubs is carried out in order to preserve and improve decorativeness, increase the number of flowers or fruits, improve bushes and regulate their growth and size, increase or decrease the leaf surface of crowns, create artificial forms and maintain their size and configuration.
In order to maintain good growth and decorative appearance of shrubs by pruning, it is necessary to know their biology, since the growth, aging and longevity of shoots are directly related to the practical tasks of pruning.
Pruning free-growing shrubs. The full cycle of stem development includes progressive growth, branching, aging and the formation of renewal shoots. The entire period of stem development is divided into two cycles: the main one, which lasts from bud germination to full development, flowering and crown formation, and the recovery cycle, from the appearance of stem shoots to the complete death of the stem. The duration of the main development cycle of shrubs can serve as a criterion for establishing the degree, methods and frequency of pruning.
The least durable in terms of life span of shoots from ornamental shrubs are spireas and wild roses. Their shoots have vegetative growth within one year and quickly age after flowering. However, bushes of these species are easily renewed by stem shoots, and many of them have a rather long life cycle. Shoots of other species usually live 2-4 years, depending on the lifespan of the fruit twigs.
Pruning of these shrubs should be done to the point of growth of large stem growth. When the shoots become obsolete, they must be cut back to the underlying stem growth or to the base of the trunk. Bushes that do not develop stem shoots should be cut to the very base (“planted on a stump”). This method of pruning allows you to always maintain the bushes in a decorative state.
Spireas blooming at the beginning of summer (medium, hypericum, oak-leaved, crenate, Vangutta, sharp-toothed) should be cut off immediately after flowering, and blooming in the middle and end of summer (spirea loose-leaved, Menzies, broad-leaved, Japanese, Bumalda) - in autumn or spring ( in April). This is due to the fact that the first ones lay flower buds on the shoots of the last year, the second - on the shoots of the current year. Spiraea pruning must be done annually.
Shrub pruning: a - willow-leaved meadowsweet; b - bladder; c - meadowsweet town-leaved
Honeysuckle and mock oranges have an unstable progressive growth of shoots, lasting from one to several years. Usually, in the second year, the apical growth of the shoots stops, and lateral flowering shoots develop from the axillary buds. The full cycle of shoot development in these types of shrubs is 6-7 years, and the bushes die off after 14-20 years.
In honeysuckle and mock orange, at the end of the main development cycle, the aging parts of the stem should be cut out to the place where large stem shoots appear. Parts of the stem, which are woody from the coppice shoots at the top of the crown and are, as it were, a continuation of the main shoot, can be left, since their active life activity can continue for a rather long period (2-3 main development cycles). The perennial stem shoots of these shrubs provide a fairly long period of their life and decorativeness, and timely and correct pruning allows you to always keep them in a decorative state.
Shrub pruning: a - Tatar honeysuckle; b - common viburnum; c - common lilac
It is advisable to prune honeysuckle and mock orange after flowering. To maintain a good shape of the bush, old branches are cut out from the honeysuckle and the longest young shoots are somewhat shortened; in mock oranges, faded shoots are cut out, and young side shoots are left to ensure flowering next year. Overgrown bushes are thinned out in the spring, leaving only strong young shoots that can quickly restore flowering. More durable compared to honeysuckle and mock orange is currant - alpine and golden.
Currant shoots do not require annual pruning. The main methods of pruning are thinning the crown and shortening the shoots before the formation of stem shoots. Currants are characterized by renewal by stem shoots and shoots from the root neck. Therefore, when thinning, it is necessary to cut old branches to the base of the trunk or to the place where strong stem growth is formed. This operation is preferably performed in the spring before bud break or in May after flowering. Usually old shoots of currants are cut out once every 4-5 years.
Lilac and viburnum have a long progressive growth of shoots with the main development cycle of 9-20 years, the durability of the trunks is up to 30 years. The types of renewal in these types of shrubs are similar.
Rejuvenating pruning of these shrubs should be done to the base of the trunk or to the place where strong stem growth appears once every 5-6 years. Their main pruning consists in shortening the central and lateral branches of the trunk before the stem branches begin to dry out.
The weakest and drying branches of lilac are cut out annually, fading branches and brushes - immediately after flowering. In grafted forms, it is necessary to remove root suckers, as they significantly weaken the growth and development of the main plant.
The best time for pruning lilacs is spring (March - early April).
Old branches of viburnum, if necessary, are cut out immediately after flowering or in winter, when the fruits ripen. Cutting out old branches, you can quickly restore the decorative appearance of the bush. The optimal pruning period is April.
The most durable shrubs with a main development cycle of 18-35 years and a life expectancy of up to 20-40 years are cotoneaster, shadberry, yellow acacia and hawthorn. They are characterized by the fact that they almost do not form stem shoots or give it very rarely.
Pruning hedge shrubs: a - c - correct; d - d - wrong
The main method of pruning the listed shrubs is thinning the skeletal branches and shortening the shoots, which enhances the growth of the remaining branches and the appearance of shoots on the trunk and at its base. Pruning must begin before the onset of the period of aging and the death of the shoots. An indicator of the need for such pruning can be a weakening of the growth of shoots and a decrease in flowering.
Technique for pruning ornamental shrubs
There is a system for pruning ornamental shrubs, which comes down to nine techniques.
Technique 1: Haircut to keep fit
This technique is used for shrubs that are grown in molded hedges and require constant pruning.
If you form a hedge in the spring, remove only the growth of the previous year. If you prefer a haircut in the second half of summer, remove the growth of the current year, respectively. You may need to do both spring and summer pruning if you are dealing with fast growing plants. (Attention: we are talking about pruning shrubs that have already been formed for a hedge, having reached the desired height and dimensions.)
Formative pruning will help you keep the plant neat and compact - in the desired size and shape.
Haircut to keep fit
And remember: once you have applied this type of pruning, it is advisable to apply it annually.
Small plants can be cut with scissors or an electric trimmer. For large ones, you need to use a pruner, as damaged leaves and stumps left from the shoots will turn brown and die.
Using this technique, hedges are cut from barberries, privet, hawthorn, honeysuckle, cotoneaster, snowberry.
Technique 2: Cutting New Growth in Half
Do not let broom and other gorse bushes spread wide and expose the base. Cut new growth by half every year. Start doing this when the plant is still young. If a few years for pruning are missed, in the future, young shoots will grow, falling down from old coarsened branches, which will drastically reduce the decorative effect of the shrub.
Trim off any new green shoots to encourage new branches and growth.
Do not cut to old rough wood. Remove dead branches completely.
After pruning, the bush will look more elegant and compact.
Trim gorse-type shrubs after the flowers have faded but before the seeds have matured.
Using this technique, Russian broom, creeping broom, and English gorse are cut.
Technique 3: trimming dead ends
Trim heathers and other similar plants, removing dead shoot tips with scissors. This will help the plant to be lean and compact and stimulate its flowering.
As soon as the flowers begin to die off, remove them with scissors. With pruning fall-flowering heathers, wait until spring.
Remove shoots close to the base of the current year's growth. Do not cut to old dark wood.
Heathers are cut using this technique, almost all erics.
Removing new growth by half
Trim dead ends
Technique 4: shortening side branches
We are talking about shrubs that bloom on the shoots of the previous year. As a rule, these are summer-flowering shrubs. Pruning them stimulates the growth of a large number of side branches and more abundant flowering. It is necessary to cut the shoots one third from the top to well-developed buds immediately after flowering. Hydrangea paniculata can also be pruned in early spring if you want to admire its powerful inflorescences in winter.
After pruning, the plant will not look significantly increased in growth compared to last year. But it will become more compact, and flowering next year will be more abundant.
Using this technique, hawthorns, panicled hydrangea, rugosa rose (if you grow it not for the sake of fruits, but for the sake of flowering), tree erica (it should be cut off not 1/3, but 2/3 of the shoot) are cut.
Technique 5: Removing one stem out of three
A large number of shrubs that produce many new shoots every year will look healthy and beautiful if you cut one shoot out of three each year. This very common technique avoids over-thickening of bushes, and also stimulates flowering on strong shoots.
The technique is applied to three groups of bushes:
Which bloom early on the shoots of the previous year (forsythia, spiral vanguta, ornamental currants);
Which bloom profusely throughout almost the entire summer (shrub cinquefoil);
Some shrubs that are grown for their beautiful foliage (White Sod "Elegantissimo").
Shortening side branches
This type of pruning should begin when the shrub reaches the age of three. And if every year after that you cut one branch out of three, the shrub will look strong and compact at the same time.
Remove one stem out of three, cutting it as close to the ground as possible. First of all, choose the weakest and oldest branches.
After all old and weakened branches have been removed, remove those that extend far from the center of the bush and break the shape of the plant. If you do not see a bud near the ground from which a new shoot can come, leave a short stem with a bud. Subsequently, you can delete this branch as well, when there is enough new growth to replace it.
After pruning, the shrub may look somewhat sparse. But soon new shoots will appear that will fill the space.
Using this technique, a significant part of the shrubs is cut, if they need to be formed as tapeworms, and not for a hedge. Among them are barberries, cotoneaster, hazel, action, white derain "Elegantissimo", colquitsia, honeysuckle, sea buckthorn, mahonia, weigela, snowberry, stefanander tanaki, mock orange, sucker, ornamental currant, forsythia, cinquefoil, lilac (you need to remove more than one of three, but one of the four shoots), elderberry (if it is necessary to stimulate not the growth of foliage, but flowering and fruiting), as well as spirea - arguta, vangut, thunberg, nipponika, Japanese - Bumalda and Shirobana, viburnum (if you want to make the bush more compact).
Please note: shrubs that bloom in early spring should be pruned only after they have faded. Summer flowering shrubs can be pruned in early spring.
Technique 6: cutting to the ground
Use this technique to cultivate, improve the development of plants that throw out a large number of strong-growing twigs (for example, sweet raspberry).
Some shrubs, such as ornamental raspberries, produce many new shoots each year. Old branches are best cut in early spring to ground level.
Cutting to the ground
Such pruning is also used in cases where plants growing like raspberries have young shoots that have a decorative color. For example, Rubus cockburnianus has white young shoots. With age, their color changes and becomes less interesting. It is advisable to cut such a plant annually to ground level.
When pruning such plants, you do not have to worry about making a cut on a bud that you can see. Young shoots will come directly from the ground.
Using this technique, decorative raspberries, stefanander inquis, and two-colored lespedets are cut.
Technique 7: pruning to the base of the bush (a)
Plants grown for their beautifully colored shoots, such as white turf, will look more attractive if they are regularly pruned 2 inches from the base of the bush to encourage new shoot growth.
The same technique is necessary in order to stimulate the growth of large decorative leaves (for example, in elderberry with yellow leaves).
Let the plant grow a season after planting, and then cut back the following spring to a height of 5-7 cm from the ground.
It is not recommended to cut plants in this way every year: if the bush is not well fed or poorly mulched, it will only be able to throw out weakened thin stems. But pruning to the base every second year is just what you need. It will promote the growth of strong thick stems, and the plant will not need intensive feeding.
Pruning at the base of the bush (a)
According to this technique, derens with decorative bark and decorative leaves, willows with decorative bark, elderberry (if it is grown for the sake of beautiful leaves) are cut.
Technique 8: pruning to the base of the bush (b)
The technique is exactly the same as the previous one. But pruning should be done in the very first spring after planting and is required every year without fail. Buddleia and other shrubs that bloom on current season shoots (such as Hydrangea arborescens) will produce larger flowers on more compact plants if you cut the plant back 5-7 cm from the base of the bush each spring. If this is not done, the plants will produce smaller flowers on ankle-length, outstretched branches.
Pruning to the base of the bush (b)
Cut off all last year's growth, leaving two buds at the base. This is usually 5-7 cm on last year's shoots.
If the bush has grown to a very large size and is full of shoots, cut one or two old stems to ground level. This will allow the plant to conserve energy for better flowering and get rid of poorly placed branches. After pruning, many bushes can throw out shoots up to 1.5 m (or more) per season.
The same technique is applicable in the case of dwarf Japanese spireas. By cutting them to the base of the bush, you solve several problems at once: create growth conditions for new strong stems, form a compact, beautifully shaped shrub, and in the case of yellow-leaved spireas, promote the growth of brighter and more expressive foliage.
Using this technique, buddleys, tree hydrangeas, spireas "Little Princesses", "Golden Princesses", "Gold Mound", "Nana" and the like are cut.
Technique 9: Pruning plants with gray leaves
Regular pruning of plants such as lavender helps to create the correct compact form. Start pruning the plant while it is young. If you first resort to a strong pruning of an adult plant and cut to old wood, the shrub can be greatly weakened and even die. Prune regularly every spring. If the growth of the current year comes directly from the base of the bush, cut the plant 5-10 cm from the ground.
Pruning plants with gray leaves
When pruning a mature plant with a lignified base that does not have young shoots coming from the ground, be careful. Do not cut into old dark wood. Get by with pruning the previous year's soft shoots 5-10 cm from the old dark wood.
Lavender is cut using this technique.
Of course, this scheme needs to be approached creatively. If, for example, a shrub that is usually pruned using technique 5 (one out of three shoots is removed) has grown strongly, has lost its attractive shape and has begun to bloom worse, it can be radically planted on a stump using technique 8 and thereby rejuvenated. If the tips of a shrub that is cut using the same technique 5 are frozen, you still have to not only remove one shoot out of three, but also walk with a pruner along the tips of the frozen twigs.
Deviating from the rules is quite acceptable if you know these rules well and understand why you are doing this or that movement with a pruner. Any pruning technique must be combined with sanitary pruning - remove all diseased, broken, crooked, weakened branches.
Forming and trimming hedges
Hedges are widely used in gardens and parks, on the territory of cultural institutions, schools, etc. They organize the territory occupied by green spaces, emphasizing the originality of its individual sections and the general principles of planning.
There are two types of hedges: free-growing shrubs that do not undergo molding, as well as a certain artificial form with a clearly defined transverse profile.
In hedges of the first type, flowering shrubs are usually used, the systematic pruning of which greatly reduces the decorative qualities. They are not subjected to forming pruning, except for the pruning of some branches that protrude strongly beyond the general contours of the crown. For formable hedges, pruning is mandatory. Moreover, it is produced several times during the summer as new shoots grow and the shape of the hedge is lost, maintaining a given cross-sectional profile.
Pruning of hedges begins in the first year, immediately after planting, and is carried out at the same level from the surface of the earth along a stretched cord. Plants are cut from above and from the sides, giving the hedge the necessary transverse profile.
In the first years after planting, the hedges are cut off 1/2-1/3 of the growth of shoots; as they grow, the depth of pruning is increased to 2/3 of the average length of the shoots. When the height and width of the hedge approach the required dimensions, the pruning depth must be increased, leaving only 1-2 cm high stumps. increase for fast-growing shrubs up to four or six, for slow-growing shrubs - up to three (depending on the natural and climatic conditions and the object where they grow). Such a number of prunings ensures the preservation of a given transverse hedge profile throughout the growing season.
The most common hedges with the following cross-sectional shapes: rectangular, straight and reverse trapezoid, triangular, semi-oval and ovoid. The most common is the rectangular shape. However, with such a cross-sectional profile, the lower parts of the hedge (especially the high one) are quickly exposed due to lack of illumination. In order for all parts of the hedge to receive uniform illumination, its side surface must be somewhat inclined. This is especially true for living walls. The slope of the lateral surface of the hedge, equal to 12 cm per 1 m of height, or an angle of inclination of 83 ° to the horizon, creates the best conditions for uniform illumination of the lateral surfaces of the hedges.
The first pruning is done in March - April, before the buds open. At this time, in addition to the leveling haircut, sanitary pruning is carried out and, if necessary, thinning and rejuvenation. After the start of shoot growth and the loss of clarity of the transverse profile of the hedge, leveling haircuts are necessary.
Hedges serve not only for decoration, but also for delimiting space.
Starting pruning, you need to imagine from the very beginning what your hedge will be, and take this into account, giving the required shape to the “cocoon” described above.
It is difficult to make a hemispherical hedge from a fence that was started to be rectangular in cross section - this must be done from the very beginning. A hedge will only be beautiful if it is properly planted and properly cared for. At the same time, heavily trimmed and natural hedges are distinguished.
Natural hedges are formed from trees or shrubs that grow naturally and are not heavily pruned. They are very beautiful, but require a lot of space. Many woody plants are suitable for this, for example, mock orange, deutsia, diervilla, ornamental quince, lilac or evergreens such as holly, various types of juniper, cypress, Serbian spruce or thuja.
Various cylindrical forms of arborvitae or cypresses become slender and tall without trimming the hedge, the same applies to Serbian firs. Other shrubs still need to be adjusted, while removing overly prominent branches and limiting the height of the plant, rejuvenating. The result of such work should not be conspicuous, it is necessary to maintain the impression of a natural form. Plants for hedges are planted with a density of 1-2 pieces. per 1 running meter.
Trimming a strictly shaped hedge
Such hedges are constantly pruned and therefore provide a wide field of activity. They are kept in shape, they should not be wide and too high, only then an ideal fence is obtained.
Planting density should be 2-3 pieces. per 1 linear meter, depending on the tallness of the planted species. But it is hardly necessary to use flowering shrubs, at least those that bloom on old wood, such as ornamental quince and dogwood. For strictly formed hedges, primarily hornbeam, forest beech, privet, maple, hawthorn, cypress, thuja, yew and, possibly, holly are used.
Hardwood hedge trimming
Small seedlings are used for planting. If they are still green, you must immediately cut them strongly. With repeated pruning, the hedge should grow by 15-25 cm annually. Whoever thinks that due to the weaker pruning of the hedge will achieve results earlier, he will only achieve that the hedge from below will have bald spots and even be bare. But the hedge should be dense over its entire height, starting from the bottom - for this, the shrubs must branch well, which is achieved by constant pruning.
Pruning of the hedge begins before shoot formation and is repeated 2-4 times until August - September. Intensively growing large-leaved shrubs (for example, maples) are pruned more often; small-leaved crops with tender branches are pruned less frequently. Fences can form vertical walls or take a trapezoidal shape. The latter option is laborious, but more desirable, because in this way you can avoid exposure at the bottom.
At the base of the hedge, the final width should be observed - 0.4-1 m, depending on the crop, the height is determined at will.
Evergreen hedge trimming Deciduous and coniferous evergreen forms for hedges are not pruned as often as the rest. It is enough to prune before shoot formation and once in June - July. Trees and shrubs with thin branches can be shortened 3-4 times a year. But the last pruning of a hedge from such plants should be carried out in August, so that the cut surfaces heal by winter.
Trimming hedges to create borders For low hedges in the garden, dwarf boxwood is used less and less. Dwarf barberries or flowering shrubs are popular and are pruned only once before regrowth. For border hedges, undersized spireas, red, green or yellow-leaved barberries, evergreen honeysuckle and other species are suitable.
Rejuvenating hedge trimming If, despite all your efforts, the hedge is bare from below, it needs to be rejuvenated. This does not apply to evergreens and conifers. The stems are cut as low as possible, about 25 cm above the ground, and a new hedge is formed from shoots that do not need to be thinned out. At the same time, shrubs must be cut as often as young plants.
From the book All About Pruning and Grafting Trees and Shrubs author Gorbunov Viktor VladimirovichPruning ornamental trees Natural trees are more commonly used in parks or for street landscaping because they are usually large. But they are not uncommon in suburban areas. These are, for example, horse chestnut, locust, white locust, many species
From the book Shaping, grafting and pruning trees and shrubs author Makeev Sergey VladimirovichFormation and pruning of berry bushes Formation of bushes and pruning of currantsBlackcurrant is called the queen of the garden, since there is no longer such a culture that would accumulate up to 330 mg of ascorbic acid in 100 g of berries. In addition, currant fruits are rich in sugar,
From the book Smart Agricultural Practices. Miracle harvest on 6 acres author Zhmakin Maxim SergeevichSergey Vladimirovich Makeev Shaping, grafting and pruning of trees and
Pruning fruit trees and shrubs
From the book Garden and Garden for those who are over ... without extra effort author From the book Blooming Garden is easy and simple. Green and beautiful area all year round author Kizima Galina AlexandrovnaFormation and pruning of berry bushes Different berry bushes have their own pruning specifics. Therefore, it is very important, when starting pruning, to clearly understand what needs to be cut and why, and what to leave. Pruning should begin in the year of planting and be carried out throughout
From the book Flower Garden for the Lazy. Flowers from the last snow to the first frost author Kizima Galina AlexandrovnaPruning and shaping Sparse-tiered crown. Pruning after planting is always carried out in the spring. A stem 30–40 cm high is formed. The crown is formed from a limited number of branches (no more than 5–6), 3 main branches are left in the first tier, the rest are placed with
From the book The New Encyclopedia of the Gardener and Gardener [Supplemented and Revised Edition] author Ganichkin Alexander Vladimirovich From the author's bookFences from ornamental shrubs In general, a fence can only be created from ornamental shrubs, choosing plants for it in such a way that they have approximately the same habitus (more or less the same above-ground part in size). Better if they bloom
From the author's bookFences from ornamental shrubs In general, a fence can only be created from ornamental shrubs, choosing plants for it in such a way that they have approximately the same habitus (more or less the same above-ground part in size). Better if they bloom
One of the functions of hedges is to protect country estates from intruders. Today, in addition, deciduous trees and shrubs, bearing thorns and thorns on their shoots, cope with this task “perfectly well”.
thorny blackberry hedge,a photo
Today you will meet tree species that are well known to you, learn about the interesting features of thorny hedges, borders that will be arranged with their help.
barberries
Large and small, deciduous and evergreen, they all make beautiful thorny borders and hedges, especially when they are in bloom.Barberries in bloom, photo
And species and varieties with red fruits will be luxurious in the fall, in fruiting.
A colorful hedge of the common barberry Atropurpurea, fragment,a photo. Barberry border Thunberg Red Pillar,a photo
During planting, the distance between plants is 25-30 cm. If there is space, and for a more reliable fencing of the summer cottage, planting material is planted in 2 rows in a checkerboard pattern. Barberries tolerate shearing well, make excellent molded or free-growing hedges, borders. It is good to feed them with a complete mineral fertilizer at the beginning of shoot growth (according to instructions). Flowering occurs on last year's growth, so molded hedges are sheared after it ends; dwarf varieties in low borders can not be cut at all. For evergreen species, rejuvenating pruning is used for a “short stump” every 10 years, for deciduous species - once every 3-5 years, and in case of severe damage by scale insects or rust - annual pruning with the removal of all plant residues.
Blackberry
It was the blackberry hedge that helped me keep most of the plants in the country from thieves.
Blackberry (Rubus)- very tenacious semi-shrub with creeping thorny shoots, living 2 years, with complex leaves, white flowers with an extended flowering period and black (or black-red, with or without a bluish bloom) edible fruits. It is winter-hardy in the southern horticultural zone, to the north it is better to use high-frost-resistant varieties. In the conditions of the Non-Black Earth Region, it requires shelter, which is quite problematic.
Propagated by root offspring, rooting of apical young shoots, leaf-bud cuttings.
blackberry hedge
In free-growing hedges, control of the spread of suckers is required.
Blackberry hedge, photo from dom-sad911.ru. blackberry fruit,a photo
By the end of the second year after planting, trellises are constructed with three horizontal rows of wire every 30 cm. Young shoots are tied up vertically, and their ends are directed horizontally. When they reach a length of 1 m - pinch (to form side branches). Fruiting shoots are cut off in the fall. In the cold zone, young branches are laid on the ground and covered, and in the spring they lift and tie up. The distance in a row for kumaniks is from 80 cm to 1-2 m.
Rose, or wild rose (species)
Here are six deciduous species that make excellent thorny hedges, especially spectacular during the flowering period.
Dog rose blooms, or wild rose,a photo Their flowers are charming, and the fruits are rich in vitamin C.
Rose Begger
Rose Begger (Rosa beggeriana)- shrub 1-2.5 m high with erect bluish branches, large curved spikes, white flowers, spherical red fruits rich in vitamin C.
Very winter-hardy: in the north it reaches Kirovsk-St. Petersburg.
rose daurica
This far eastern rose (Rosa davurica) up to 1.5 m high, with numerous thin branches, large needle spikes, pink flowers, ovoid orange fruits.
Winter-hardy: reaches the northern and middle forest zones. May overgrow with rhizomatous shoots, so control is required.
Rose needle
An excellent prickly hedge 1-2 m high will also come from this pink beauty. In addition to good winter hardiness, it is also quite shade-tolerant.
At needle rose (Rosa acicularis) arched spiny shoots, dull green leaves, pink flowers and pear-shaped red fruits.
Rose prickly
The specific name of this rose speaks for itself, and its terry form "Plena" fascinates with beautiful flowering.
Spiny rose (Rosa spinosissima) will give hedges 1-1.5 m high. The shoots are covered with densely spaced thorns, the leaves are dark green, the flowers are white, fragrant, spherical blackish fruits. Winter-hardy, but produces abundant shoots, can grow strongly (requires control of distribution).
rose wrinkled
Will give magnificent borders and hedges 1-2 m high.
wrinkled rose,a photo
Numerous erect shoots wrinkled rose (Rosa rugosa) covered with needle-like spines; leaves are dark green, wrinkled; bright pink (sometimes white) flowers are very fragrant; bright red fruits are spherical, flattened from the poles. Winter-hardy, grows well in St. Petersburg, drought-resistant, undemanding to soils, resistant to fungal diseases.
dog rose
Will give not only borders, but also higher (up to 3 m) hedges.
Dog rose on Ai-Petri,a photo
Rose dog, or ordinary (Rosa canina) arched branches covered with curved powerful thorns, green or bluish leaves, pale pink or white flowers, bright red oval-oblong or rounded fruits are characteristic. In different regions, it is not equally winter-hardy, therefore, for planting, plants obtained from stratified seeds of local reproduction, which are harvested at the beginning of the redness of the fruit, should be used. It is drought-resistant, undemanding to soil fertility.
Rosehip hedges
They can be either free-growing (with trimming the protruding sides if necessary) or molded.
The difference is as follows: in the first version there will be more gorgeous flowering and abundant fruiting.
Plum prickly, or turn
Familiar to many, densely branched shrub with numerous spines from 50 cm to 4 m high.
Blackthorn plum (Prunus spinosa) characteristic matte elliptical leaves 2-4 cm long and white flowers up to 2 cm in diameter, arranged 1-2, blooming in April-May, to the leaves.
Decorative form: "Atropurpurea" - red-purple leaves, pale pink flowers. Juicy blue-black, with a bluish bloom, tart drupes, many of you have tried, used for urination, making liquors.
Thorn hedges
They can be both molded and free-growing; different height is supported by haircut.
Often, it was these hedges that not only protected the Russian estates of the early 20th century, but at the same time performed a utilitarian role: they were honey-bearing, pergon-bearing and fruit-packed plantings. Requires control over the spread of root offspring.
In addition, impenetrable thorny hedges, walls can be made from hawthorn trees, which were discussed here.
Steven's hawthorn for the barbed hedge,a photo
I hope that acquaintance with trees and shrubs for thorny hedges was not only pleasant for you, but also useful!
Types of the best shrubs for hedges
A living fence of shrubs is most often used for landscaping a territory in landscape design, as a delimitation of various zones on a site or to protect the territory from prying eyes. Such plants have different lengths and heights, which allows you to build a beautiful green fence, impassable to outsiders.
In this article we will analyze the main types of bushes suitable for these purposes.
Why is it better to choose bushes for a living fence?
The hedge can be formed in the form of a low-growing border, as well as a dense fence 2-3 meters high, wild-growing or of a certain shape. Bushes are ideal for:
- the formation of various zones on the site, for example, areas for privacy and recreation;
- curbs along the tracks;
- external and internal delimitation of the territory;
- protect the site from prying eyes, dust and noise;
- focusing on certain areas of the garden.
A living shrub fence can be given any shape: elliptical, rounded, pyramidal, etc. by cutting. Such a fence is decorative, it is suitable for drapery of an old picket fence. Shrubs grow quickly, you can pick up plants of different heights and splendor with different periods of flowering, plant them in one, two or more rows. The result is a lush, green, flowering fence throughout the warm period.
Types of shrubs for a living fence
For hedges, plants are selected that are unpretentious and shade-tolerant. This is especially true for dense multi-row fences. For fences of a certain shape, bushes are selected that easily tolerate a haircut. When selecting, take into account the growth rate of the variety and the shape of the crown. Plant height ranges from 10 cm to 6 m.
evergreen options
Evergreen bushes in winter are covered with the same elegant foliage as in warm weather. Some of them bloom beautifully. Some types of evergreens need shelter for the winter in the absence of snow, for example, boxwood or cherry laurel. Shrubs of European varieties do not require shelter. They go well with conifers and deciduous plants.
- Rhododendron well suited for forming a fence on the north side of the site or in the northeast. It is recommended to combine with plants that have a tap root system. Some varieties in open areas are prone to burning in the spring sun, so they need to be shaded or hedge in shady places. The first year after planting, the plants must be carefully watered. Further care for them is minimal. Feed with fertilizer for rhododendrons.
- mahonia attracts with evergreen glossy leaves, fragrant flowers. The aroma of flowers resembles the smell of flowering lilies of the valley. The berries are dark purple with a bluish bloom, suitable for food, used in winemaking and cooking. Blooms in November-March, depending on the variety and region. Easily tolerates frosts even during flowering. Suitable for hedges: Oregon grapes, Japanese mahonia, Wagner and creeping.
- Heather decorative during the flowering period, especially when the snow crushes the inflorescences. The height of the bush is about 1 m and above. Color variations are different: yellow, white, lilac. Unpretentious, does not need systematic top dressing. Tall branches can bend on their own, rooting in the ground. Only dense hedges need moderate pruning until buds appear. For the winter, the roots are covered with sawdust, dry leaves or peat.
The following video details how to create a hedge from evergreens:
thorny bushes
Thorny shrubs are ideal for forming an external impenetrable hedge. Most of them tolerate shearing well, but look spectacular in the wild. Some species grow wide and require careful pruning and overgrowth control.
- Blackthorn- strongly branching winter-hardy plant up to 4 m high. Undemanding in care. Forms dense impenetrable hedges that protect the site from gusts of wind. Suitable for outdoor fencing. Blossoms before the appearance of leaves, abundantly white flowers, bears fruit in August. The fruits are edible.
- Sea buckthorn- low-maintenance shrub. Well propagated by seeds. Looks beautiful as a hedge planted in two rows. Fruits in combination with leaves are very decorative. They are edible and have medicinal properties. Needs systematic pruning to form the boundaries of the fence, while reducing yield.
- Roses- thorny shrubs of various heights. Under this name, many undersized, standard and climbing varieties are combined. A wide range allows you to create both an impenetrable living fence and a beautiful border. Some varieties need to be covered for the winter. They tolerate pruning well. Decorative during flowering.
Roses as a hedge
tall shrubs
High options allow you to form hedges 3-5 m high. Such plants grow quickly, which allows you to form a fence within 2-3 years. To form a uniform hedge, it is recommended to combine them with plants of various sizes. The fence needs height control.
- Lilac tall varieties attracts landscapers with a captivating aroma and decorative qualities during the flowering period. It is unpretentious in leaving, grows on any soils. Needs sanitary pruning, winter-hardy. A high hedge can be formed from bushes with different shapes and colors of buds.
- Aronia chokeberry grows 2.5-3 m high, forming dense hedges. Blooms in June-July with white or pink flowers. The fruits are edible, but in limited quantities due to the large amount of ascorbic acid in them, they have healing properties, suitable for harvesting. Winter-hardy and unpretentious. Very decorative, especially when the fruits ripen. Suitable for wild growing hedges, does not need frequent pruning.
- Elder- shrub up to 4 m. Blooms in May-June. Many white inflorescences create a powerful heady aroma. The fruits have medicinal properties. Red and black varieties are suitable for high hedges. Mice can't stand it. There are several forms of elderberry bushes, for example, weeping and pyramidal. Unpretentious and winter-hardy.
high lilac
Shade-loving bushes
Shade-loving options are most often used to form arbors and hedges in combination with tall plants. It's nice to relax in such a corner in hot weather. Shade-loving bushes also need sunlight, but differ in the degree of shade tolerance. They are divided into shade-loving and shade-tolerant. The difference is that shade-loving shrubs prefer shady places, while shade-tolerant shrubs put up with little shading.
- Honeysuckle- frost-resistant shrub up to 2.5 meters high. Easily grows in width and height over the age of 4 years, so this fact must be taken into account when laying a fence. Flowering plant tolerates early frosts. The fruits are edible, ripen at different times. Until the age of seven, it does not need pruning. Virtually unaffected by pests and diseases.
- Hazel- shade-tolerant, suitable for places with little shading, while the amount of crop depends on the degree of illumination of the planting. Needs top dressing with nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers, as well as sanitary pruning. For hedges form a crown of 4-8 branches. Only annual branches bear fruit, this must be taken into account during the haircut. It is recommended to rejuvenate annually by cutting up to 3 old trunks.
- mexican jasmine attracts landscapers with a citrus aroma during flowering, in addition, it blooms several times a season. Poorly tolerates a strong haircut. Can grow in full shade. Needs frost protection. It grows slowly, reaches a height of up to 3 m.
Jasmine fence
undersized options
Low-growing shrubs grow in height from 0.5 m to 1 m. They are optimally suited for delimiting zones on the site and forming borders along the paths. Their crown shape is varied. Many people tolerate haircuts very well. The border can be formed uncut, freely growing in one or two rows without losing its aesthetic appearance.
- Quince Japanese low- a small shrub with arched branches covered with thorns. When planting in two rows, it will protect the site from the penetration of animals. Winter-hardy. It is very decorative during the flowering period and when the fruits ripen with a golden color. Fruits are fragrant, hang on branches until late autumn. Unpretentious, the crown can be given any shape by cutting.
- Action graceful grows no more than 80 cm high. It retains its decorative effect in the wild due to falling branches blooming with white small flowers. Depending on the species, the leaves have different colors: variegated, green and golden. The bush is not damaged by pests.
- Potentilla shrub- versatile long-flowering shrub. Yellow, yellow-orange or white flowers stay on the branches for about 100 days. Unpretentious. Multiple fruits resemble buttons covered with fine hairs. Winter-hardy and drought-resistant. Spraying is recommended on hot days.
undersized fence
decorative bushes
Decorative options differ from other species in a wide variety of leaf shapes and colors. They look beautiful throughout the warm period. In various combinations, plants allow you to emphasize the features of the landscape. This category includes evergreen and deciduous plants. They are divided into ornamental and decorative flowering. The distance between specimens should be equal to twice the height of adult bushes. With this planting, many varieties do not need care and will be attractive in the wild.
- Weigela attracts attention with dark green saturated foliage. Blooms in May-June. Unpretentious and frost-resistant. Not damaged by pests. In autumn, it is decorative due to bright red berries that remain on the branches for most of the winter.
- Hydrangea attracts landscapers with a wide variety of color shades. Perfectly coexists in full shade and in partial shade, combined with trees. Inflorescences are large with a diameter of up to 25 cm. Likes loose soil, needs shelter for the winter. Handles shearing well. The bush is very sprawling, with a dome diameter of up to 1.5 m.
- Barberry Tumberga attracts blue-gray foliage. It cuts perfectly, allowing you to create hedges of an unusual shape. Can be grown wild without loss of aesthetic qualities. Blooms up to 20 days. Winter-hardy and unpretentious. The crown has a spherical shape. Bush height up to 70 cm.
hydrangea hedge
Fast growing species
Fast-growing plants allow you to form a beautiful fence in 2-3 years. Most often, vines and other climbing plants are used for this purpose. They are decorative throughout the warm period, do not need frequent pruning. By interweaving plants, you can create an impenetrable hedge of any height from them. It will perfectly hide the area from prying eyes. Annuals are planted to decorate the finished fence.
- Clematis- look spectacular in the flowering period. The color scheme is varied. They love sunny places. Ideal for fast growing hedges. For the winter, the root neck is covered, but sawdust cannot be used for this. A chic fence is formed in 2-3 years. Growth can be controlled by pinching the shoots. Pinching inhibits growth for 2-3 months.
- Common hop especially beautiful with knobs on the branches. It grows to a height of up to 7 m, attaches to the surface on its own with the help of spikes on the stem. Does not require pruning. Unpretentious and frost-resistant. Used in medicine. Needs root control and regular watering.
- Highlander Aubert- the fastest growing variety, needs constant pruning. Unpretentious, but can freeze slightly in cold weather. Easily restored after freezing. It blooms in June-July with small whitish-greenish flowers. Suitable for hedges in partial shade, grows well in full sun. It is valued by landscapers because of the dense, bright green foliage.
Fast growing live fence
unpretentious shrubs
Unpretentious bushes not only grow well on any soil, but also easily recover after heavy cutting and freezing. Many of them easily take root in shady places. They tolerate heat and city conditions well.
- Currant Schmidt ideal for medium hedges. Has a curly crown. It tolerates a haircut, allows you to create three-dimensional sculptures. Suitable for laying a fence in the shade, frost-resistant. It produces small fruits that are not used for food due to poor taste.
- Snowberry allows you to form a fence 1.5-2 m high. Thin curved shoots look spectacular during the fruiting period. The fruits are small, white, remain on the plant until frost. Unpretentious to the soil and planting site, grows well in deep shade. It tolerates a haircut well, but it does not bloom and does not bear fruit.
- Chubushnik attracts with beauty during the flowering period and a chic aroma. Flowers and leaves of various sizes and textures. There are terry forms that are less fragrant. Suitable for hedges up to 2 m high. Suitable for sunny areas and partial shade. Unpretentious and frost-resistant.
Chubush fence
Planting and cutting basics
Before laying a hedge, determine for what purpose it is needed. Based on this, they decide what height the green fence will be formed. For borders and low fences, undersized and medium-sized plants are selected. Coniferous bushes, creepers and thorny plants are suitable for external fences. Annuals are only suitable for decorating an existing fence.
When choosing bushes, pay attention to compatibility of varieties. Not all shrubs can get along with each other. A hedge can be formed both from a variety of varieties of one plant, and various combinations of different bushes. Most often they combine shrubs of different heights. The result is a homogeneous hedge that protects the territory from prying eyes and visitors.
Different flowering periods allow you to create a fence that will bloom throughout the warm period.
The distance between the bushes depends on the diameter of the crown of adult plants and ranges from 0.5-1.5 m. Ornamental plants are planted at a distance equal to twice the height of an adult bush. Dense impenetrable hedges are formed in 2-3 rows, planting bushes in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the rows is about 0.5 m. The size of the hole under the bush should be about 20-50 cm larger than the roots. You can plant in a trench 60 cm wide for a single-row hedge, plus 40-50 cm for each subsequent row.
When planting bushes, humus and fertilizers are added to the pit in accordance with the type of plant. In this case, young plants do not fertilize for the first 1-2 years. During this period, shrubs are systematically watered, some plants need spraying in hot weather. The formation of the fence is carried out in the second or third year after planting, when the plants grow.
Some shrubs need width control, such as hops and raspberries. Such species are not planted on the boundary with someone else's site.
Curly varieties intertwine as they grow. Sanitary cutting of bushes is carried out either in the spring before the growing season, or in the fall, cutting out shoots older than 4-5 years for rejuvenation. When forming the shape of the hedge, it is taken into account on which shoots and in what place the flower buds are laid. In some plants, they form on the apical shoots, in others - only on annual branches. Incorrect pruning will lead to a lack of flowering and fruiting. Some varieties, such as hydrangea, need to be removed as they dry. Some bushes need shelter for the winter, for example, boxwood and clematis.
Photo gallery of living fences from shrubs
The photo below shows various bushes from which living fences are formed in summer cottages and suburban areas:
Perfect for decorative and fast growing perennial hedges willow. The plant is growing really fast. The branches can be intertwined, as they are very smooth and pliable. It is possible to form a kind of hedge from natural wattle.
Willows take root in many climatic zones; any soil habitable for plants is suitable for them. In swampy areas flooded during spring floods, trees quickly develop an extensive root system.
Be sure to monitor the amount of moisture, in a dry climate, the bush must be watered regularly. Plantings can tolerate shearing, so you can give them the desired appearance.
If you plant several willows on the site, you can sort out their varieties and plant several species by designing them in size and shades. Weeping willow is most suitable for weaving branches. Purple, goat, holly willow and red willow look best when weaving branches. To make a motley fence, you need to plant several trees, avoiding repeating species, then successively form their crown or allow natural ornaments to develop.
Can be used for hedges fast growing shrubs. In addition to decorativeness, some varieties bring significant benefits. Berries grow on their branches, for which you do not have to go to the forest or to the store. You can close the jam from fruits grown on your own plot. Barberry often sits down. It grows quite quickly, it can be cut into any possible shape. Fragrant and quite tasty jam is made from its berries.
From thorns can be one of the fastest ways to form a hedge. You can not follow the conditions of its maintenance, it is advisable to water and monitor soil fertilizers during drought, however, even without proper care, the turn can not lose shape for quite a long time. Having planted bushes at the same distance, you can not engage in their further formation for a long time, since they grow quite compactly. It is very difficult to get through this fence. You can get original, tart fruits. You can make excellent jam, unusual tkemali sauce and liqueur from them.
Rosehip and tea rose include many useful features. You can alternate the bushes when planting through one or a certain pattern. They grow quickly, able to provide valuable vitamins for the winter. Rosehip tea will allow you to get a large dose of vitamin C, tea rose jam is used to treat inflammatory diseases of the oral cavity, as well as sore throats and colds. From its petals you can make a fragrant liqueur with a bright red tint.
If you leave rose hips for the winter, they will decorate the site, and also become food for birds.
Photo of a wild rose hedge.
Tall shrubs for hedges
Derain white is a bright, vibrant hedge that grows quickly up to 3 m, can maintain a target height of 1.2 m. Flowers can be seen 2 times per season. Once in June, and the second in August. Flower baskets have a milky color. In the process of growth, clusters of berries, blue with a slight yellow bloom, are formed, on which birds flock.
In winter, you can see the cherry-red tint of the branches, which looks especially beautiful against the backdrop of snow. The hedge can be grown both in the shade and in the sun, requires little watering, is very hardy. The close location of groundwater does not become an obstacle to its active growth and flowering.
To prevent the hedge from spreading more than 1 m wide, it is necessary to trim its lower branches.
oval reaches 3 m in height if regular shearing is not applied. Blooms in May. Bright yellow bells form before the leaves appear. They give an elegant look to the site. In cold climates, the oval or egg-shaped forsythia are considered the most persistent. If you do not use a haircut, the crown will be oval.
privet fence ordinary reaches up to 2 m in height. It can grow up to 50 cm per year. It is quite unpretentious. Bushing immediately after cutting. Pruning should be carried out constantly, as the bush will not grow evenly without additional correction. If you let the plant take its course, it will look quite interesting, white flowers will appear, and berries by autumn, but they are forbidden to eat. The bush is so dense that sometimes it can be compared with the texture of the wall.
The plant is quite strong, so it does not need frequent and plentiful watering.
Video of a privet hedge.
Evergreen shrubs for hedges
boxwood compact and versatile. They can plant the edges of the site adjacent to the roads. It is possible to delimit several zones with a shrub for a separate planting, for example, vegetables and flowers. With it, you can create a composition with your own design.
They can be planted in dim, dark places in the garden, under trees or near tall structures. Many varieties do well in well-drained soils.
So that the leaves do not burn out from bright sunlight, in clear weather, the soil must be well moistened.
Video clipping a boxwood hedge.
Fatsia notable for bright, glossy leaves that completely cover thick, strictly vertical trunks. The shrub is quite hardy, so it is suitable for planting in shady areas of the garden. The stems are cream in color, they are placed in spherical umbrellas, they form in early autumn. Bees often flock to them, so for beekeepers this will be an excellent option.
Lavender grown by gardeners quite often, as it has fragrant flowers and interesting green foliage with a silver sheen. May be purple or pink. The shrub is quite hardy and versatile. They can be used for edging and bordering or grown in containers. Butterflies and bees flock to the flowers. Flowers create a spectacular contrast with dark-colored shrubs due to the presence of silvery, light leaves.
thorny shrubs for hedges
Hawthorn allows you to form a real thorny fence. Many of these flowers have thorns, you can pay attention to the varieties of American origin. An adult shrub grows quite high, so it can become an obstacle, for example, for neighboring animals in the country. Large-thorn hawthorn grows up to 5-6 m, if no measures are taken to cut it.
The length of each spine is on average 1.2 cm. The Siberian hawthorn does not have such impressive spines. Some plants have broad, highly spreading foliage combined with small spines.
mahonia endowed by nature with thorny leaves. Their rich green color is brightly combined with yellow, small, but frequent flowers. They appear already at the end of the winter months. Flowers are located on long racemes or ends of graceful branches. They are able to give brightness to the entire garden at a time when other plants are still sleeping. The only condition is to plant them as often as possible.
You can arrange flowers on the shore of a reservoir, near a strong shadow. Clay soils do not interfere with their excellent flowering. Bees flock to them. There are varieties that grow very low, so they can be used as ground covers.
princepia chinensis has decorative, unusual foliage, beautiful flowering. The bush is very lush, the crown is semicircular, some branches may lie scattered.
It boasts small but interesting flowers, which later turn into small berries that look like cherries. It is used in medicine as a strong tonic. Unpretentious and frost-resistant shrub, easily grown in mid-latitudes.
Photo of hedges from the bushes. Shrubs for hedges.
Proper planting and proper care of fast growing shrubs will allow significantly ennoble your own garden and any piece of land. By choosing the right variety of plants, you can decorate the yard according to your own taste.
How to make a fast growing hedge in the country?
The hedge is especially beautiful on summer days. It will not only protect the site from strangers, but also help to form certain zones for various purposes on it.
For a green fence, you can use a variety of growing material: shrubs, climbing plants and trees. Properly selected plants will delight with greenery and flowering for many years without losing their decorative qualities with regular care.
Estimated time frame for hedge formation
A hedge of plants that grow quickly can be equipped with several types of plantings. Such a fence requires constant care, both during the growth of only planted shoots, and during the already formed fence. Plants for the hedge are selected so that the hedge is of the same height and density. After all, different types of greenery grow unevenly - some specimens stretch upwards, others have time to grow in width during this time.
A full-fledged two-meter hedge can be formed from fast-growing perennials in about 2 years.
Plants are selected so that they fence off the territory, but do not penetrate into the neighboring area. Both perennials and annuals are used for hedges. Annual plants need to be replanted every year, which is not always acceptable. Annuals are also not suitable for fencing the outside of the site. 
fast growing shrubs
Fast-growing bushes - the best solution for the formation of a dense hedge in a short time. Suitable for fencing the site from the outside specimens with thorns. The result is an impenetrable fence that will qualitatively protect the territory from uninvited guests and animals. Can be picked not only ornamental shrubs, but also fruit-bearing. You will receive both a chic fence and blanks for the winter.
Shrubs are selected taking into account the characteristics of the site, soil composition and climate. Different types of bushes can be combined with each other.
Instances are selected so that the result is a fence of approximately the same size. Some shrubs have a negative attitude towards the removal of tops. Next, consider the most suitable species for a fast-growing hedge.
Dogwood
Shade-tolerant and unpretentious shrub. It is ideal for outdoor hedges. It has beautiful leaves and ornamental fruits that are edible. Berries due to their nutritional properties are used in folk medicine. The height of the bush is 2-5 m. It blooms from March to April for about two weeks, then the leaves bloom. Fruits abundantly in open areas and neutral soil, but grows well under any other conditions.
Planted in spring or early summer. You can form a dogwood hedge bookmark in the fall, but no later than 3 weeks before frost. When planting in the fall, the leaves are removed from the seedlings. For laying a hedge, specimens under the age of two years are suitable. Autumn planting for the winter can be covered with foliage.
Kalinolistny vesicle
Unpretentious shrub with excellent decorative qualities. The plant has a lush rounded crown. It can grow in the shade, but the leaves lose their rich color. The bush is great for urban hedges located along highways.
Container specimens are suitable for laying hedges. They can be planted throughout the warm period. Frost-resistant, does not require shelter. Only in very severe frosts can the tips of the shoots freeze slightly.
Barberry
A thorny shrub that can grow in any soil and is drought tolerant. Poorly refers to the stagnation of water in the area. Thanks to the thorns, an impenetrable fence is formed.
For hedges, both low-growing and tall varieties are used. The plant is decorative, especially during the flowering period and when the fruits ripen. For the fence you will need a large amount of material. The fruits are suitable for home preparations.
Turn
Unpretentious and undemanding in care. Bushes are compact up to 3 m high, do not require careful pruning. The fence is thick and impenetrable. The fruits are edible after frost, have medicinal properties. The hedge is especially beautiful in the spring during the flowering period, when the leaves have not yet blossomed on it. It attracts with almond aroma.
When laying a hedge, each bush is cut, leaving a height of up to 15 cm. This measure allows you to accelerate the growth of the shrub. To obtain an impenetrable fence, pruning for the next year can be repeated. Next, maintain the desired height.
climbing plants
For a fast-growing hedge, you can take annuals, provided that they are located on a support as a decorative element. They are sown quite thickly. Such plants will not protect the territory from animals and strangers, but they will carefully cover it from unwanted eyes. Plants are renewed every year.
Suitable for an annual fence kobeya, sweet pea, morning glory (twisted panych), ornamental beans, nasturtium and others. They are intertwined with each other, as a result, a solid green flowering panel up to 5 m high is obtained, depending on the type of annuals.
Also popular are the following types of perennials.
Climbing (curly) roses
Very decorative during flowering. The fence of them turns out to be impenetrable due to the thorns and the interlacing of the vine. The shrub is recommended to be slightly separated from other flowers. The plant does not tolerate stagnant water. It should not be planted in places where groundwater is located closer than 2 m.
The laying of the hedge is carried out in autumn until mid-October. They form the appearance of the hedge from the second year after planting the bushes. Plants are tied up. A horizontal garter gives only growth in height, a vertical garter gives a large number of shoots. This must be taken into account when forming the density of the fence.
Clematis
Decorative throughout the warm period. For laying the fence, bushes no older than two years are used, they are planted in the fall. Plants grow optimally in open areas. Clematis do not tolerate acidic soils, water overflow and constant dampness, fertilizer with peat and manure. In hot weather, the soil must be protected from overheating by mulching with humus.
In order for clematis to bloom profusely, they must be cut. For the winter, the bushes are covered, since the root neck of the bush is subject to freezing, especially those parts of it that have not yet risen to the surface.
Honeysuckle
An ornamental shrub up to 6 m high. It attracts landscapers with high decorative qualities throughout the warm season. The hedge can be formed from various varieties of honeysuckle. The result is a flowering fence of various shades: yellow, carmine red, rose red and orange yellow. Pairs beautifully with climbing roses.
The fruits are edible, in some varieties they crumble themselves. The first 5-7 years, only sanitary pruning is needed, the crown of the hedge is formed at a later age.
Ivy
Decorative due to its foliage, which develops in large numbers. Fences can be assembled from different plant varieties. The bush tolerates shade well, but in too shaded places it loses foliage. Does not tolerate scorching sunlight. Ivy is not picky about soil, pruning and care, the main thing is that the soil does not dry out.
Trees for fast growing fence
Eucalyptus
Eucalyptus is the fastest growing among trees. For landscaping, the varieties Gunni, few-flowered and lemon are used. They are undemanding to the soil, drought-resistant. The height of the fence is adjusted by pruning. It is recommended to cover for the winter. Do not allow the soil to dry out.
Willow
Suitable as a fast-growing hedge, unpretentious to the quality of the soil. Some varieties can be given the shape of a shrub by cutting the trunk. There are low-growing and dwarf trees, for example, purple willow, goat willow; they are very decorative as a green fence, but love moisture. It is recommended to spray the hedge in the heat.
Aspen
It is unpretentious and grows in any soil. The hedge is formed from young shoots no older than a year. The branches are intertwined with each other, it turns out an impregnable fence. The tree does not require maintenance. The height of the hedge is controlled by pruning, in which case a lot of overgrowth appears. Aspen mushrooms appear under such a fence over time.
field maple
Suitable for hedges 2-4 m high. Does not tolerate acidic soil. It grows equally in the sun and in the shade, easily tolerates drought and heat. Responds well to haircuts. It is pruned twice a year, removing thick lignified branches. Very decorative throughout the warm period, especially in autumn.
You can learn about other types of fast-growing trees from the following video:
Unwanted hedge plants
It is not recommended to use plants for hedges that grow strongly in different directions, digging the soil. Such instances include raspberry and blackberry, irga, fieldfare and the like. Such plants should not be planted on the border with another site. They are very difficult to control by pruning.
It is not recommended to plant bushes prone to attack by pests and diseases as a hedge, for example, viburnum. A dense fence during an “epidemic” is difficult to treat with chemicals, moreover, such treatment is harmful to health. Such a fence quickly loses its beautiful appearance due to pests, it is extremely difficult to completely protect it from diseases.
Not recommended for fast growing hedges. non-hardy perennials. Freezing specimens will need to be systematically replaced; in severe frosts, the hedge can completely die. Do not plant plants that need replant periodically. Such a fence gradually degenerates, losing its original appearance.
Landing and care
Initially mark the territory. Material for a fast-growing hedge can be planted in two ways: dig a trench at least 40 cm deep and 60-100 cm wide, depending on the number of rows, or dig holes for each instance separately. The planting step is chosen depending on the type of plants.
The minimum distance between specimens in a single-row planting is 25 cm for climbing varieties, for shrubs 0.5-1.5 m, for trees - from 1.5 m. With a two-row planting, the planting step is from 0.5 m.
The soil in the hole is recommended to be replaced with a nutrient composition. The mixture is prepared according to the needs of the plant species. The crown of the hedge is formed during the first 4 years. Not all types of plants need pruning after planting. Usually, in the first 2 years, pruning is not used for climbing varieties and some shrubs. Some types of plants, such as conifers, need pyramidal pruning to prevent shedding of the lower branches. All types of plants need systematic watering and top dressing during the period of rooting and growth.
A barbed fence is the most reliable fence. If you can climb over a fence of any height, then no one will dare to get over a barbed fence in this way. What plants can such a fence consist of?
How to grow a hawthorn in a hedge
Hawthorn for hedges - a godsend. It is prickly, beautiful both in flowering and with fruits (which, moreover, are curative), easily formed by pruning. If the soil is heavy, hawthorn will not mind, as long as it is sufficiently fertilized. Good drainage is desirable - the roots of the plant will perceive dampness poorly. When preparing planting pits, we lay a layer of gravel or crushed stone (15-20 cm) at the bottom of them, and on top we fill it with ordinary garden soil mixed with sand, humus (3: 1: 2). You can add some lime. Planting - in spring or autumn, two-year-old seedlings.
Areas well lit by the sun are especially loved by this plant - it develops well on them, blooms profusely and bears fruit (hawthorn growing in the shade produces very few berries).
Pruning is done in the spring, leaving 1/3 of the length of the shoots. Top dressing - at the end of April-May, diluted slurry or complete mineral fertilizer, watering in dry weather 1 time in 1-1.5 months (for an adult bush 10-12 liters).
For it is worth choosing large-thorn hawthorn, Siberian hawthorn (blood-red), round-leaved hawthorn. The easiest way to propagate the plant is by layering, root cuttings, but you can also use seeds.
How to grow a barberry in a hedge
For high hedges, Ottawa barberry, common barberry (purple-leaved form) and Amur barberry are more often used. For multilayer hedges, as well as dividing plantings, the Thunberg barberry is good, growing up to 80 cm-1 m. All of these are very decorative, remarkably amenable to cutting.
Barberries are planted more often in early spring, while the buds have not yet blossomed. If the planting is autumn, it is carried out during the period when the leaves fly around the trees.
The planting hole is filled with a substrate of garden soil mixed with sand, humus or compost (1:1:1). If the soil is acidic, add a glass of ash or lime under the bushes (be sure to mix well with the substrate). Add superphosphate (80 g per bush).
If you are planning a dense hedge, plant it in a trench, the width and depth of which is 30-40 cm.
Water regularly until the seedlings take root, then - as needed, for example, if there is no rain for a month. Since hawthorn bushes are thorny, it will be problematic to loosen the ground under them, so use mulching.
Barberries are not averse to "feeding up". It is useful to add bushes 1-2 times per season with slurry or bird droppings diluted with complete mineral fertilizer. In September, each bush can be fed with superphosphate (15 g) and potash fertilizer (10 g).
The formation of barberries begins in the second year after planting. Further as needed. Since the flowers bloom on last year's shoots, pruning is carried out after flowering. Reproduction - dividing the bush and cuttings.
Young barberries are covered with dry leaves or spruce branches for the winter, Thunberg's barberry can first be protected with lutrasil or burlap.
How to grow wild rose in a hedge
Rosehip should be planted on sites where there is a lot of sun, and groundwater does not rise too high. In this case, the bushes will develop well, bloom, give fruits. When planting plants in a hedge, dig along it to a depth of at least 30 cm sheets of slate, metal, plastic - growing, rosehip roots can give a lot of overgrowth. We observe a distance between seedlings of about 50 cm.
We begin the formation of bushes after 2 years in the spring, and in the future we do it only at this time of the year: frost sections that have barely dragged on after cutting are poorly tolerated. Rosehip pruning is basically thinning bushes, cutting out old, improperly growing branches. Keep in mind: a strong shortening of the rosehip branches provokes the appearance of a large number of shoots.
Watering plants - only if there is no rain for a long time. We feed young plants 2-3 times per season with organic or mineral fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, adult bushes can be pampered with humus or compost once every 3-4 years.
It is easiest to propagate plants in spring or autumn by root offspring: plants about 25 cm high are separated with a shovel from an adult bush and planted in a new place. If the task is to propagate rose hips with seeds, they are selected from not fully ripened, brown-colored berries, sown in rows before winter, covered with leaves, sawdust or humus. If sowing is postponed until spring, we sow the seeds in boxes in sand and peat (4: 1), which we install in a room with a temperature not higher than +2 0С (it is possible in the cellar).
How to grow thorns in a hedge
The turn is winter-hardy and low (bushes up to 3 m). Prickly plum (as this plant is also called) is ideal for creating a hedge. Especially, its decorative varieties: purple, red-leaved, terry. Flowers appear 3-4 years after planting, always attracting many bees (thorn - honey plant). It grows well in the sun, loves loose, fertile soil with good drainage.
When arranging a hedge, plant seedlings at a distance of 1-1.5 m. After planting, cut the plant to a height of 10-15 cm to stimulate the emergence of more shoots. Next, the annual spring formative pruning.
If you plan to harvest fruits by watering once a week. It is desirable to feed the plant once a year - with humus, manure or infusion of chicken manure. It is easy to propagate the bushes by root offspring (shoots), you can use seeds or summer green cuttings.
The formation of the above-ground part of seedlings is the most important agrotechnical stage in the cultivation of trees and shrubs in the nursery and at landscaping sites. The basis for the formation of the above-ground part of the seedlings is various prunings of plants at different stages of their cultivation. With the help of pruning, trees tend to create a strong straight trunk of a certain height and a crown of skeletal branches evenly spaced and firmly fused with the trunk, as well as to obtain well-developed shoots of the following orders. In shrubs, by pruning, developed, evenly spaced skeletal shoots and a low-lying tillering node are formed.
Many years of practice and special studies indicate that pruning is an integral part of a single complex of plant cultivation and in no way compensates for the lack of nutrition, water supply, and light conditions. On the other hand, none of the agricultural practices can replace pruning. This work can only be performed by qualified workers who imagine its purpose, who know the structural features of the aerial part, the age characteristics of the growth and development of the cropped plant, representing the reaction of a tree or bush to pruning.
The above-ground part of the shrubs is formed in order to obtain a well-developed planting material with a large number of shoots. Therefore, it is especially important to form weakly bushy breeds with a monopodial character (type) of growth, when the leader shoot develops strongly, and there are few side shoots and they grow weakly. These species include hawthorn, lilac, yellow acacia, honeysuckle, viburnum, svidina and some others. Species such as barberry, Japanese spirea, cotoneaster, snowberry, bush well themselves, but pruning is also carried out for them, only for another purpose - to obtain a homogeneous material.
Before planting in the formation department, seedlings or rooted cuttings are sorted according to the following indicators: the development of the root system, which must be healthy, branched and well developed; total height of the stem, degree of formation and maturity of the apical and lateral buds; thickness of the root collar (from 3 to 12 mm, depending on the breed); defeat by diseases, pests (should be absent).
To exclude from the production of seedlings with a weak root system, low-growing ones are sorted.
When planting in a school, seedlings of most types of shrubs - seedlings and rooted cuttings - cut off the aerial part, leaving 8-12 cm of shoots. In the first year after planting, the shrubs are allowed to develop freely, without pruning. From the second year, they begin to form the above-ground part.
Formation begins in March-April before the start of sap flow. The bushes are cut at a height of 5 - 8 cm from the root neck, i.e. planted on a stump. By autumn, due to the awakening of dormant buds, new shoots develop on these stumps, which are cut off in the early spring of the next year, leaving such a number of buds that by the autumn of the third year of cultivation they develop from four to six (for ordinary seedlings) to six to ten (for shrubs grown as large-sized) new shoots.
With such pruning, two to five eyes are usually left on each shoot, depending on the number of shoots formed after planting on the stump. By the autumn of the third year, the plants acquire a standard look and they can be sold for landscaping or planted in the II school to obtain material for repairs.
When forming in school I, it is necessary to take into account some features of different groups of plants:
caragana, cotoneaster, lilacs can be cut only once and get four to seven skeletal trunks;
in the second year, rocks that naturally form a crown are not planted on a stump - chaenomeles, magonia, chokeberry, cinquefoil, etc .;
shrubs with poor tillering in the third year are once again planted on a stump (viburnum pride, panicled hydrangea, Tatar maple) and grown in school I for up to four to five years.
When transplanting shrubs to the II school to obtain large-sized seedlings and architectural forms, proceed as follows. In well-branching decorative-deciduous and flowering shrubs, from which large-sized plants with a freely growing crown should be obtained, all shoots (annual growths) that have completed growth shorten and thin out the crown if it is thickened. In this case, it is necessary to ensure uniform placement of shoots in space.
Deciduous and flowering shrubs with weak tillering are pruned differently. All annual growths are severely cut off, leaving three to four buds (or pairs of buds). In plants with short internodes, the number of buds left on the shoot should be 1.5 - 2 times greater.
In shrubs, the crown shape of which should be in the form of a ball, pyramid, trapezoid, annual growths are cut more strongly, leaving bases 3–4 cm long. In this case, the pruning contour should correspond to the intended outlines. In the first year after this pruning, the plants are allowed to develop freely so that they recover from the transplant and form new growths. In the next three to four years, molded shrubs are cut annually according to the template two to three times during the growing season. The first haircut is carried out in the spring, before the buds open, and the next - as the shoots grow. When growing by 8-12 cm, they are cut to half the length. Hawthorn is easier to form in the form of a cone, cotoneaster and buckthorn - in the form of a cube, ball or cylinder.
Evergreen and coniferous shrubs in school I are not pruned. When forming in school II (thuja, spruce), they are cut twice during the year - before the start of the growing season and before the end of shoot growth in length.
Thuja western is easier to form in the shape of a cone. A more complex artificial shape for shrubs (for example, helical) is also given using templates.
Ungrafted shrubs can be formed in the form of standard plants. This method is suitable for golden currant, hawthorn, buckthorn and other vigorous shrubs. The formation is carried out in the department of architectural forms of shrubs of the III school of shrubs, and this stage is a continuation of the formation that was carried out in previous schools - in I and II or only in I, depending on the growth rate of the species.
