Interior and exterior design made of wood always looks beautiful, environmentally friendly and safe. The tree allows you to give uniqueness to the premises, add zest, fill with a pleasant aroma, insulate and protect the house from excessive moisture. In this article, we will talk about the types of wood finishing materials, the advantages and disadvantages, and also help you choose the right material for interior and exterior cladding at home.

Types of materials and scope

Wood products are widely used for both interior and exterior decoration of the house. Wood is used for cladding:

• walls;
• facades;
• floor covering;
• stairs;
• internal and load-bearing partitions;
• window, doorways;
• individual decorative elements.

Finishing materials made of natural wood are able to create an excellent microclimate in the room, as well as perform the function of sound and noise insulation, hide defects and emphasize the individuality of the interior. The construction market offers a large selection of wood-based materials. The following materials are used for interior and exterior decoration:

• block house;
• lining;
• decking;
• decorative wallpaper;
• wood panels;
• parquet and floor board;
• glued timber;
• gusvarblok;

For interior or exterior decoration of the house, deciduous trees are most often used: ash, oak, walnut or maple. But from conifers, as a rule, they choose pine, cedar or mahogany. To make the choice easier, you can use the product evaluation criteria:

• the availability of the material;
• the complexity of product care;
• what degree of material processing will be required during its installation;
• compliance of the material with the requirements of wear resistance and operating conditions.

In any case, before buying a facing material, you should learn about each product in detail.

Characteristics of facing materials

Wood-based materials are ideal for finishing various structures made of concrete, metal or brick. For interior decoration of the ceiling and walls, coniferous trees are most often used, for flooring and stairs, solid wood is used, but for exterior decoration, wood with high density and resistance to the external environment is used. Consider the characteristics of wooden products.

Block house

Block house is one of the subspecies of lining, the appearance of which looks like a rounded log. The product resembles a log house and is used for interior and exterior works both as a main material and as a decoration for individual elements. The main advantage of the block house is:

• durability;
• high thermal insulation and sound insulation;
• high strength;
• ease of installation;
• fire resistant, due to special treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics;
• shock resistant, not deformed.

clapboard

It is an economical and optimal option for home decoration. In production, tree species are used: pine, spruce, oak, alder, linden. The main advantages of the material include:

• long service life;
• high resistance to mechanical damage;
• ease of installation;
• high sound insulation;
• the possibility of applying painting or toning.

But among the shortcomings, the possible appearance of insects and fungus can be noted. The photo shows the clapboard lining of the attic.

Important! To protect the tree from the attack of rodents and insects, it is necessary to exclude the presence of gaps when laying. The resulting free space is filled with mineral wool, which is also capable of performing the function of additional sound insulation.

decking

• loggia or balcony;
• terrace.

The use of decking will allow you to perform finishing and decorative work. The material is stable, not afraid of open space, resistant to mechanical damage and scratches. Caring for a terrace board is quite simple and consists in wet cleaning. An example of laying decking on the porch of a house

Decorative wooden wallpaper

Decorative wallpaper for walls is made from precious wood. In addition to wood, they contain veneer, which is carefully glued to thick paper. The advantage of wallpaper is the possibility of pasting them on the radius sections of the room.

For information! For a long service life, wooden wallpapers must be treated with wax, varnish or oil. Wallpaper is able to change its color and size (swell) when exposed to direct sunlight or water.

Having completed the decor of the room with the help of wooden wallpaper, the room will wear a chic and original look. An example of an original living room decorated with wooden wallpaper

wood panels

In the production of panels, tree species such as: alder, maple, cedar, oak are used. Wall decoration made of wood looks elegant, unusual and noble. The panel has three layers with a veneer face made from valuable wood species. To give a spectacular appearance and increase the service life of the panels, they are coated with a special wax or acrylic varnish.

For information! Wood panels treated with wax are considered the most environmentally friendly in contrast to acrylic processing. Experts recommend using waxed panels for wood wall decoration in a children's room or bedroom.

There are also tinted panels; in the manufacture of such wall panels, wood is used from solid pine. Such material is quite simple to install and has a lower price. It is not difficult to take care of the panel, a simple wet cleaning without the use of chemicals is enough. The photo shows the interior of the living room made using wood panels.

Parquet and floor board

Floor boards and parquet are used for interior decoration and flooring made of laminate, parquet and other materials. Such material requires a carefully flat surface to work with. Thanks to a large selection of patterns, colors and textures of products, floor boards are perfectly combined with various design solutions. The photo shows a living room decorated in a Scandinavian style using a floorboard.

Important! A board or parquet will last longer if you choose the right underlay and properly care for the flooring.

Glued laminated timber

Glued laminated timber is a versatile material. It is widely used for exterior cladding of houses, as well as for interior work for the construction of architectural structural elements. It is used for the device:

• ceiling beams;
• railings and openings;
• decorating stair railings;
• decorative partitions.

Glued laminated timber is a fairly durable material, resistant to damage and not afraid of deformation or cracking. The photo shows a house sheathed with glued laminated timber

Gusvarblock

This is a modern material that has a huge number of different types of profiles (more than ten thousand) and can be perfectly combined with any interior. Gusvarblok panels are easy to join and mount, and the hidden connection allows you to assemble the right pattern. The advantage of the product is:

• environmental friendliness;
• high quality sound and heat insulation;
• simple care;
• long service life.

For information! It is impossible to mount wood products immediately after their purchase, they must acclimatize a little. The material should “rest” for about a week.

Manufacturers have taken care of a large selection of finishing materials for interior and exterior decoration of the house. Finishing wooden products have a large selection of colors, textures, shapes, allowing you to fulfill any design decision.

Before you make a choice, remember that the walls of the house take up a large area, unlike the flooring. Therefore, it is very important to perform a high-quality and beautiful finish that will emphasize the style of the room and give it a special personality.

Finishing- the final, final operation in the process of manufacturing wooden products, which, for all their positive properties - beauty, hygiene, durability, etc. - have a big drawback: they are all exposed to external physical conditions - temperature, air humidity, sunlight. Finishing serves to protect wood products from the influence of these factors. In addition, it should protect the material from pests and give the item a beautiful appearance. To do this, wooden products are covered with a layer of paint, enamel or varnish, pasted over with a decorative film or veneered (veneered), impregnated with special compounds that protect the wood from decay and pests. Protective coatings are transparent and opaque. The former not only protect the wood, but also preserve its natural appearance, emphasizing the pattern (texture). They are usually used for finishing products made of valuable wood species and having a beautiful pattern. Opaque coatings are applied mainly to low-value wood products; at the same time, as a rule, they also strive to make such coatings beautiful.

Opaque finish. This type includes the application of adhesive, oil or enamel paints to products. Glue paints are rarely used, so we will not dwell on them. Much more durable and waterproof coatings are obtained by painting wooden products with oil (alkyd) paints and enamels. They protect the wood not only from rotting, but also from warping, and therefore are especially suitable for painting furniture and objects in the kitchen and bathroom, as well as in the hallway and corridor. Painting with alkyd compounds is carried out with soft bristle brushes. Enamel before use is recommended to be heated in a water bath to 50-70 ° C. Nitroenamels are applied using a paint sprayer in 4-5 layers. In this case, each previous layer must be polished with a fine sandpaper. The last layer is usually polished using a special paste. Keep in mind that nitro enamels should not be applied over oil paint, as nitro enamel dissolves this paint.

Surface preparation for finishing. This operation includes sealing cracks, dents, loose knots and other surface defects that were formed as a result of previous machining. Large, deep cracks, cracks and voids are sealed with wooden inserts on glue, small ones - with putty. Dents can be eliminated both by puttying and by abundant wetting of the jammed wood: having absorbed moisture, it will swell and the dent will level out. Having leveled the prepared surface, it is planed with a double planer in order to make it as smooth as possible. Upon completion of this procedure, the planed surface is wiped with a damp swab and, after drying, polished with a fine-grained sandpaper or pumice stone to eliminate the smallest villi that make the surface rough. This operation is repeated several times. If the treated tree is hardwood, then the villi are removed by scraping (for soft woods, the cycle is not suitable, since it does not cut, but only crushes the pile on them). The cycle is driven along the fibers. Places of corner joints are cycled along the seam at an acute angle to the direction of the fibers. The cycle is also used to remove products from the surface - furniture, doors, parquet, etc. - varnish and old paint before painting them. To facilitate the process, old paint can be softened by heating it with an iron through foil; the same can be achieved by wiping the surface with a mixture of acetone and gasoline (1:1).

Finishing preparation. This includes re-cleaning with cutting tools (if necessary), lubrication with pastes, sanding with sandpaper and pumice, deresining wood and priming the surface. The purpose of this stage of preparation is to make the surface of the product as even and smooth as possible and to ensure a strong adhesion of the paint to the wood. The order of finishing work is as follows: deresining (only for conifers), priming, lubrication of the ends, continuous puttying, grinding. After each of these operations, a long drying is performed. Deresining is done using a solution of acetone in water (1:3) or a mixture of acetone and washing soda (1:4), or an aqueous solution of soda heated to 60-70 ° C. With a rag or brush dipped in one of these solutions, wipe the surface of the wood, after which the remaining solution is washed off with warm water. At room temperature, the wood is dried for 12-16 hours. At the same time, it darkens, which is not essential for opaque coatings.

Padding increases the adhesion strength of paint to the surface of the product and reduces paint consumption. Priming compositions (primers) for oil paints contain film-forming substances, fillers and pigments; this is actually the same oil paint, but with a high content of drying oil and the corresponding coloring matter. The drying oil itself is also used as a primer. Under nitro-enamel paints, special nitrocellulose or conventional oil primers are used. There is no need to prime products that do not have large smooth planes. They can be covered with a thin layer of very liquid wood glue, after which the surface has dried, lightly sand the surface with fine sandpaper and paint once.

Target puttying- Obtaining a perfectly flat surface. This can be achieved with putty, which is applied to the surface of the product, filling all cracks, depressions and dents. After complete drying of the applied solution, the surface is polished with a fine sandpaper. Both of these procedures are repeated until the desired surface smoothness is achieved. The quality of surface preparation can be assessed by applying a thin layer of a slightly tinted putty to it and re-sanding. The painted putty on the bulges is ground off, as a result of which all the irregularities of the treated surface will become visible. It should be borne in mind that the first grinding is performed both along and across the fibers, and the last, final, only along. Wooden products are putty with glue, oil, semi-oil and varnish putties. Glue putty can be prepared from liquid wood glue, chalk and drying oil. The finished solution is applied evenly on the surface. A thin layer of it dries for 2-3 hours. In oil putty, there is less liquid glue and more drying oil and paint. A thin layer of room temperature oil putty dries in 3-4 hours.

Finishing preparations being completed grinding. Usually this operation is performed with a sandpaper - first coarse, and at the end - fine-grained. Sanding, as a rule, along the grain, but hardwood can be sanded across the grain. After proper grinding, the product can be painted. Usually the paint is applied 2-3 times, allowing it to dry for 24 hours, and then the applied layer is sanded. In order for the surface layer to shine, one layer of oil varnish must be applied to it. The painting technique is described in the "Painting" chapter.

When performing painting work, one often has to deal with color defects: streaks, folds, air bubbles, roughness, low gloss of the surface paint film. Sagging and bubbles occur when using paint that is too liquid or unevenly applied to the surface to be painted. The thickness of the paint can be judged by the marks of the brush on this surface: if they spread in 2-3 minutes, then the paint is too thin; if after 10-12 minutes - normal; and if the traces do not disappear after 12-15 minutes, then the paint should be diluted, making it more liquid. The reasons for the formation of air bubbles can be as follows: wet soil; too thick layer of paint; hard brush. The surface turns out to be pockmarked if it is painted at an air temperature below 18 ° C. A rough film indicates that the surface to be painted was not cleaned of dust or that the product was dried in a dusty room. It can be removed by sanding and repainting. If the painted surface is slightly shiny, this means that either unrefined turpentine was used, or it was used in excess. Gloss can be enhanced by varnishing or sanding the surface.

Transparent finish. As already noted, this is a method of finishing joinery made of precious wood. The transparent coating can be glossy, matte, velvety or mirror. With any method of obtaining such coatings (and there are many of them), first of all, careful finishing of the surface being prepared for coating is necessary: ​​it must be extremely smooth (i.e., without scratches, cracks and other defects) and absolutely without pile. The process of preparing the surface for a transparent coating is the same as for an opaque one. But all operations must be carried out much more carefully.

Other finishes. There are ways to finish wood products, which are, as it were, between transparent and opaque finishes. As a result of their application, the natural color of the wood changes, but its pattern is preserved. In this way, for example, birch can be “made” into walnut, beech into mahogany. This is achieved by direct or mordant dyeing. In the first case, the dyes penetrate the wood without chemically interacting with the substances contained in it, and determine the color of the painted surface. In mordant dyeing, the dye chemically interacts with the tannic acids of the wood, forming colored salts, which determine the color.

With any type of dyeing, dyes can penetrate into the wood shallowly (0.3-1.5 mm) or to the entire depth of the material being painted. In the first case, this is called surface dyeing, in the second - deep. For a home amateur master, it will be quite enough to master only surface dyeing. More often than others, surface staining of wood with stain (stain) is used. It is a dye (usually soluble in water) brown in color. The stain does not close the natural pattern of the tree, but, on the contrary, makes it more contrasting, juicier. Typically, stain is used for walnut dyeing. The best "candidate" for this is birch, especially with small knots. In addition to birch, beech and spruce are also used. The most common - water-soluble stain - is sold in the form of a powder or liquid, ready to use. It should be bred in soft water - rain, snow, river. If tap water is used for dilution, drinking soda should be added to it (1 teaspoon per 1-2 liters of boiled water) or a 1% solution of ammonia. The concentration of the stain solution can be 5-30 g per 1 liter of water, depending on whether the color should be more or less light. In addition to this factor, the color intensity also depends on the ability of the wood to absorb the solution. So, if you pre-moisten it a little, the color will turn out to be more even.

The technique for applying the stain is as follows. On vertical surfaces, it is applied from top to bottom, avoiding contact with still free areas where stains can form from this. On horizontal surfaces, the stain is applied along the fibers, then across them and finally again along the fibers. After drying, the surface is polished with a fine-grained sandpaper. Wood stained with a water-soluble stain dries from 15 to 24 hours. A dry painted surface can be wiped with a cloth or other similar material to remove dry, unabsorbed dye particles from the surface.

Finishing wood products is the creation of a protective decorative coating on their surface to improve the appearance of products and protect them from environmental influences (air, moisture, light, etc.). There are the following types of finishes for wood products: transparent, opaque and special. With a transparent finish, a protective decorative transparent film is applied to the wood; at the same time, the texture and color of the wood are preserved, and in many cases even become even more expressive. For this type of finish, glossy or matte varnishes, synthetic films, etc. are used.

Rice. 123. Interior decoration of residential premises with decorative painting

Rice. 124. Paint brushes

With an opaque finish, the protective film is opaque and completely covers the texture and color of the wood. An opaque finish is carried out with pigmented paints (oil, enamel, etc.) on wood of low-value species. Gilding, bronzing, burning, painting, carving, etc. belong to special (decorative) finishes. Special types of finishes are used in small-scale productions with an artistic bias. Paints and varnishes are applied to the surface manually with brushes (Fig. 124), and mechanized - by spraying, pouring, immersing the product.

For all types of exterior finishes, the wood surface must be well prepared. Preparation consists in the final leveling and cleaning of the surface. First, it is sanded along the fibers with sandpaper No. 100 using sanding. Grinding helps to eliminate small irregularities on the surface of the workpiece. The final cleaning is carried out with fine-grained sandpaper No. 140 ... 160.

Rice. 125. Techniques for applying paintwork: a - application directions; b - the position of the brush during varnishing (staining); c - the position of the hand when varnishing (coloring) with a brush

Rice. 126. Types of painting: a - Petrikovskaya; b - Yavorivskaya; c - Hutsul

Paints and varnishes are applied with brushes to the surface two or three times, depending on the required quality of finish. Techniques for applying paint and varnish coatings are shown in Figure 125. First, the paintwork is applied across, and then leveled along the fibers. After each applied layer, the paint film is dried and sanded with a fine-grained sandpaper. The last layer is not sanded. The entire surface of the product after varnishing (coloring) must have the same even gloss.

Joinery, carpentry, glass and parquet work: A practical guide Kostenko Evgeny Maksimovich

1. Types of wood finishes

1. Types of wood finishes

Joinery products are finished with paints and varnishes that protect them from environmental influences. Painted products have a good appearance, they are easier to keep clean, and their durability increases.

Types of finishes can be divided into the following main groups: transparent, opaque, imitation, etc.

With a transparent finish, the surface of the wood is covered with colorless finishing materials that preserve or even more reveal the grain of the wood. It is used for finishing furniture and high-quality building products: windows, doors, panels made of precious wood.

Transparent finishes are obtained by varnishing, polishing, waxing and coating with transparent films. When finishing with varnishing, varnishes are used that have in their composition film-forming substances in organic solvents, solvents, etc.

Most often, polyester, nitrocellulose and urea-formaldehyde varnishes are used for wood finishing, less often - oil and alcohol varnishes. Nitrocellulose varnishes dry well, give a transparent, elastic, durable and fairly weather-resistant film that can be sanded well. Varnishes based on urea-formaldehyde resins form a film with a shiny surface, quite transparent. The film formed by oil varnishes is elastic, durable, weather-resistant, but not decorative enough; alcohol varnishes give a film with insufficient strength, weather resistance, low gloss. According to the degree of gloss, glossy, semi-gloss and matte coatings are distinguished.

When waxing, i.e. applying a mixture of wax with volatile solvents (white spirit, turpentine) to the wood surface, a transparent film is also obtained, formed by a thin layer of wax (volatile solvents evaporate during the drying process). The wax coating is usually applied to porous wood (oak, ash). The wax film is soft, so it is covered with an additional layer of alcohol varnish. The wax finish has a matte finish.

With an opaque finish, a film is created on the surface that covers the color and texture of the wood. Opaque finishing is used in the manufacture of school, kitchen, medical, built-in and children's furniture, doors, windows.

To obtain an opaque coating, oil, nitrocellulose, alkyd, perchlorovinyl, water-based paints and enamels are used.

When painting with enamels with a high content of film-forming substances, glossy coatings are obtained, with a smaller amount - semi-gloss, and when painted with oil paints - matte.

Imitation finishes improve the appearance of products made of wood, the texture of which does not have a beautiful pattern. The main methods of imitation finishing are deep dyeing, pressing on textured paper with a pattern of valuable wood, finishing with veneer, films, sheet plastic.

Surface finishing by airbrushing consists in applying paint with an airbrush gun to create a pattern (by stencil). By means of airbrushing, drawings with a planar (ornaments) and three-dimensional image can be applied to the surface.

Lamination is one of the types of imitation finishing and consists in lining wood chipboards or fibreboards with paper impregnated with synthetic resins. When pressing plates covered with paper between metal spacers at a pressure of 2.5–3 MPa and a temperature of 140–145 ° C, a smooth and shiny surface is obtained on the plates.

The operational qualities of paint coatings must have a number of physical and mechanical properties: adhesion to wood, hardness, heat, light and water resistance. These properties are essential in the operating conditions of products. They are determined by the quality of paints and varnishes, the conditions for their application, drying coatings.

Adhesion is understood as the adhesion strength of the paintwork to the wood surface, hardness is the resistance of the paintwork to the penetration of a more solid body into it.

Water resistance - the ability of the coating to withstand the effects of water on the surface of the product. It plays a very significant role in the operation of joinery products (window blocks, external doors) in conditions of variable humidity.

Paint coatings must be heat-resistant, i.e. not destroyed when heated by sunlight or other sources of heat. In addition, they must be flexible, because when atmospheric conditions change, paint and varnish coatings shrink or swell, as a result of which cracks form, coatings wrinkle or peel off.