Door upholstery - a new image of the "face" of the house. Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine, video Do-it-yourself door trim

Today, wooden entrance doors are practically not used. Metal doors are installed in modern private houses and cottages, providing more reliable protection for the premises. However, many houses still have wooden doors. For example, in a country house or in a rural house, or in an apartment in a multi-storey building.

Old street doors need to be insulated. wood tends to dry out, cracks appear in the door leaf, and the tightness itself can eventually deform and move away from the box. All this harms not only the aesthetic component of the door, but also its operational properties. Despite the fact that wood is a good heat insulator, the door block needs additional insulation.

Let us consider in detail how to insulate a wooden door for the winter from the outside and from the inside, so that it does not blow and the cold does not pass into the house. There are several ways of thermal insulation, depending on the type of thermal insulation material used.

How to insulate a wooden door in a private house and apartment

The standard set of materials for door insulation includes three components:

1. insulation;
2. sealant;
3. decorative material for finishing: leatherette, artificial leather, dense fabric.

You can buy a ready-made kit for insulating the front door (cost from 490 rubles). Such a set consists of leatherette, foam rubber, door decor rollers, tapes for fixing leatherette around the perimeter and center of the canvas, carnations with decorative caps and a sealant.

But, as the masters advise, you can pick up the necessary materials for work on your own, i.e. buy separately. If not cheaper, then better quality.

• foam rubber(45-900 rubles / sq.m.) Due to the fact that the door leaf of a wooden door is solid, then the insulation is made on top of it. For this, soft insulation that can keep its shape well is best suited. Door insulation with foam rubber is justified by the low price of the material, availability, ease of installation. It also makes it possible to choose the desired thickness, because. available in thicknesses from 3 to 100 mm. To insulate a wooden door, foam rubber up to 30 mm thick is used.

• isolon(thickness from 2 to 20 mm). It is produced in two types: foil (price - 150-270 rubles / sq.m.) and regular (70-80 rubles / sq.m.). The advantage of isolon is in the small thickness of the material, due to which excellent thermal insulation of wooden doors is achieved without a significant increase in their dimensions.

• batting, sintapon, felt. These materials can also be used as insulation, but they are rarely used;

• mineral wool(price 70-250 rubles / sq.m.) It serves as an excellent insulation, but the thickness of the mineral wool increases the dimensions of the door, which does not make it a good alternative to foam rubber;

• Styrofoam(from 2500 rubles/m3). Rigid insulation used for external door insulation. The installation of polystyrene requires the manufacture of a frame and the use of a rigid decorative material (for the cover panel), which entails an increase in the thickness, weight of the door and the replacement of hinges. And in terms of thermal insulation properties on the door, the foam is similar to foam rubber with dermantine upholstery.

Calculation of the amount of material for warming a wooden door

• insulation. The area of ​​​​the insulation is equal to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe door leaf. As for the thickness, it should not interfere with the opening of the door. Users recommend using a 30 mm thick insulation. It performs its functions well and can be securely fastened with carnations;

• sealant. The quantity is equal to the perimeter of the door frame;

• upholstery. The length and width of the door plus 300 mm of margin at the top and side.

Note. The margin depends on the height of the thermal insulation material.

Insulation of the entrance wooden door - technology

Note that in 9 out of 10 cases, the doors of a wooden house are insulated from the outside.

Method 1 - insulation with upholstery

This is the easiest and easiest way to do it yourself. Leatherette or other finishing material is stretched over a wooden door and fixed on it with carnations. Due to the heat-insulating lining (foam rubber, synthetic winterizer) and the density of the leatherette itself, the effect of warming is achieved.

Method 2 - complete thermal insulation with insulation

This option is more complicated, its implementation will take some time, so you need to start work without waiting for the onset of cold weather, or order the services of a master. A professional will do the job much faster, but it will cost more.

If you decide to do the insulation of the entrance wooden door with your own hands, then you will need a step-by-step instruction describing the procedure for work:

1. Inspection of the door frame. Often, over time, it is deformed, warped, etc., which leads to the appearance of drafts, because. blowing from under the door. If the door frame is in critical condition (not repairable), it is better to replace the door block. If not, repair. How to do this we will tell below.
2. Removing the door from the hinges. It is easier to perform work if the door is raised above the floor. Users recommend laying it on 2-3 stools. This will also help avoid scratches on the face of the door that faces the floor.
3. Dismantling of protruding elements and fittings. It is necessary to remove the locks, handles, lining, peephole.
4. Heater installation.
5. Installation of handles, locks and peephole.

The insulated and upholstered door is hung on hinges and its functionality is checked.

How to insulate an old wooden door - video

How to insulate the front wooden door in a private house

Ways to sheathe the door with different types of insulation.

Insulation of a wooden door with isolon or foam rubber

The installation of both materials is carried out using the same technology. Glue (liquid nails, dragon or PVA) is applied to the surface of the door and foam rubber / isolon is laid on it. Glue is needed so that the insulation does not move during operation and operation. In the future, the insulation is fastened with carnations.

There are recommendations to fix the foam rubber with a construction stapler. But this is acceptable only if hard material acts as a decor. Otherwise, dents will be visible in those places where the material will be pressed by the bracket. Or you need to fasten in accordance with the intended pattern (scheme) of the placement of carnations.

Advice. It is not advisable to install foam rubber at the installation site of the door handle, it will interfere with its re-installation and operation.

Insulation of a wooden door with foam

Installation of foam, although rare, also does not cause difficulties.

Option 1. A thin foam or expanded polystyrene (not thicker than 30 mm) is laid on the surface of the canvas, fixed on the surface with liquid nails and covered with a finishing material.

Note. When mounting the foam on the outside of a wooden door, its width exactly matches the width of the leaf. When mounted from the inside of the door, it corresponds to the clearance of the frame. Otherwise, the door simply won't close.

Option 2. A frame made of dry wooden beams with a section of 20x30 is stuffed onto the door leaf. Inside the frame, additional stiffeners are installed from the same beam. The frame is treated with a primer. Styrofoam is placed inside the cells. Then it is closed with finishing material.

Note. The disadvantage of such insulation is that the thickness and weight of the door will increase. This, in turn, will create an additional load on the hinges.

Insulation of a wooden door with mineral wool

It can be performed both by the frame method (like foam plastic) and frameless (nailed with a stapler to the surface of the door leaf). In any case, for cotton wool, a prerequisite is the use of a hydrobarrier film that will protect the insulation from moisture.

Do-it-yourself upholstery of doors with dermantine

Let's briefly consider the technology of how to sheathe a door with dermantine. After the insulation is laid, it is closed with dermantin, which must be wrapped and fixed around the perimeter of the door leaf with carnations. Leatherette upholstery starts from the top of the door. During the installation process, you need to make sure that the insulation does not move to the side, and the dermantin is stretched without distortions.

Note. This installation method, despite its obvious simplicity, has a drawback - the place where the dermantine is attached can be torn, so rollers are often installed at the place where the dermantine is installed.

Upholstery of doors with dermantine with rollers

The sheathing method involves the use of rollers covering the place where the leatherette is attached and the gap between the door and the frame, so as not to blow.

It is easy to make rollers - you need to cut strips from the finishing material - 4 pcs. Strip dimensions: width 50-200 mm, length equal to door height (2 pcs) and width (2 pcs)

Note. If the hinges are installed on the outside, the rollers are installed only from the side of the handle.

The cut off parts of the leatherette are attached around the perimeter of the door, a round seal is placed in them (in this case, the width of the workpiece is 50-70 mm), or a twisted insulation, or a leatherette folded into a roller (then the workpiece reaches a size of 200 mm). Dermantin closes the insulation, wraps and fixes around the perimeter.

The use of rollers allows you to beautifully decorate the place where the leatherette is attached to the door leaf and additionally protects against the penetration of cold through the door gap.

How to upholster a door with dermantine

Fastening dermantin for door upholstery is carried out using decorative nails.

Places of installation of carnations should be given attention, because. their use allows you to additionally decorate the door. Some ways of mounting studs are shown in the photo below. It is necessary to hammer in nails in strict accordance with the intended pattern. To do this, it is recommended to apply the ornament on the surface of the leatherette with a pencil or a washable marker, and then erase it.

Pattern of door upholstery with dermantine - examples

A beautiful pattern helps to create a dermantine ribbon stretched between carnations.

Attracting a master to insulate the door will cost a certain amount, approximate prices for the work are shown in the table:

In order for the insulated wooden door in a private house to fully fulfill its functions, you need to perform a few more actions, namely:

• insulate the door frame. To do this, dismantle the slope, inspect the installation site of the door frame. Evaluate the condition of the mounting foam, which was used to insulate the junction of the box to the wall. If it is unsatisfactory, the foam is cut off and applied again. A new slope is being formed, which it is desirable to insulate. It is convenient to use cotton wool or polystyrene as a heater.

• insulate door frame. To do this, a polymer or foam rubber seal is glued around the perimeter of the door frame.

Such a complex warming will allow you to get a good result.

Upholstery of doors with leatherette allows you to increase its performance - heat and sound insulation. This is a simple operation, so anyone can handle it. Next, consider all its nuances.

Before you upholster the door with leatherette, you should purchase a certain list of materials:

• Lining.

For this purpose, foam rubber 1-2 cm thick is suitable (the more, the better). If there is a need for increased thermal insulation of the structure, we recommend paying attention to isolon. This is a very effective insulation, which is used in many industrial areas. The only negative is that it is much more expensive, but its technical characteristics are many times superior to foam rubber.

• Leatherette for doors.

As a rule, it is sold in strips 110-130 cm wide (you choose the length yourself). For standard designs, this is sufficient. If you have a large canvas, you will have to look for options with a larger width. For an iron door, we take a margin of 10-15 cm. Do not forget that for a wooden canvas, you will need to make three strips 15-20 cm wide around the entire perimeter. Based on this, make calculations, remembering to leave a margin of 5-10%.

• Decorative nails.

In this case, we use furniture analogues with a wide hat. They have a wide range of colors, so you can choose the option that suits your taste. You can also find nails, the heads of which are covered with vinyl leather - they will be completely invisible in our design.

If the task is to sheathe a metal door with leatherette, then you will need special glue (in the event that there are no holes for nails in the canvas). You can use the "Universal Moment", or similar analogues.

Please note: the glue must be frost and moisture resistant.

Hauling a door with leatherette will require certain tools: a construction stapler with staples, a small hammer, a clerical knife, a set of screwdrivers, scissors, pliers and a brush. A screwdriver may be required to dismantle the fittings.

Preparatory stage of work

Before sheathing the door with leatherette, it is necessary to perform a number of preliminary manipulations:

• We are preparing a place for laying the canvas. Put something on the floor so as not to stain it.
• We remove the canvas from the hinges. A screwdriver with the appropriate nozzle will help us with this. If the canvas is not dismantled, the lining will be much more difficult to produce, as the hinges, walls and floor will interfere. At the same time, you can clean and lubricate the hinges (WD-40 is suitable for this). We remove all fittings: locks, peephole, handles, etc. If there is old skin, remove it.
• In order for the lining of the front door with leatherette to be successful, we carefully clean the original surface from dirt. At the end, it can be degreased, for example, with White Spirit (relevant only for metal surfaces). This will provide better adhesion of the adhesive.

We make lining from the inside

Now let's look at how wooden doors are upholstered with leatherette from the inside. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• The first step is to make a roller - it is designed to close the existing gap. In some cases, it may fit snugly against the box.
• We cut off a strip of leatherette 15 cm thick. We nail it with staples and a stapler to the canvas, so that it goes 4-5 cm onto it.

Tip: if there is a padlock, it is better to start nailing from it. Otherwise, we start from the top corner, on which the loops hang.

• With this method, it is necessary to beat the entire perimeter of the canvas. Having finished with this, we cut the foam rubber (or other lining material). We divide it into strips, 10-12 cm wide. With the help of staples we fix them around the perimeter, after which we turn them so that they protrude by several centimeters. As a result, we will create a roller.
• Now we cut off a large piece of foam rubber, which will occupy a niche between the strips, preferably with a margin of 1-2 cm for each side. We fix it with brackets (it is better to shoot as often as possible).
• Cut off a piece of leatherette, with a small margin (7-10 cm for each side).
• We tuck the edges of the fabric by 6-7 cm and put it in the corner of the canvas so that it goes onto the roller. Stepping back from the edge of half a centimeter, we nail the matter in the corner onto a decorative nail.
• We take the second edge, also tuck it in and pull it well. It should exactly fall into the other corner. We fix on the second nail. We straighten the matter from top to bottom, running a hand over it. It is necessary to carefully smooth it so that wrinkles do not appear.
• We evaluate the evenness of the location of the material - it should have the same distance from all edges. If necessary, we make adjustments by removing one of the nails.
• When we are sure of the evenness of the location, we securely hammer the upper edge (the step between the nails is not more than 10 cm). Check again for evenness. Next, you need to punch through the remaining sides and bottom end in the same way (that is, by turning the edges). Do not forget to constantly smooth the matter.

On this, the do-it-yourself upholstery of the door with leatherette is completed. It remains to put the canvas in place and install the fittings back. First you need to make the appropriate holes in the matter. We recommend using a special leather knife (it has the shape of a right triangle).

We do work from the outside

If we insulate the door with leatherette from the outside (from the entrance), then the work is carried out differently. The canvas does not need to be removed from the hinges, since we will need to mark up when assembled.

• Completely close the sash.
• With a pencil or marker, we outline the projection of the box on the canvas. Simply put, you need to draw along the entire perimeter - this is how we get the contour along which the sheathing will be made. If we go beyond this line, then the door simply will not close, because the lining will not give.
• Prepare the rollers (as in the previous example). We fasten the lower strip in such a way that it is located right next to the threshold (according to the markings applied earlier). You should get a small gap, if you do not leave it, the material will be erased over time.
• We fix the lining material with an indent of 1 cm. We fasten the main part of the vinyl leather (as in the example above).
• Next, we need to create a warming roller on the other three sides. Now it will be located on the box itself. At the same time, it must be filled with foam rubber in order to prevent cold air from entering the room. Clearly observe the dimensions so that the sash can close normally, and at the same time there is no large gap.
• At the end, we fix the lower edge of the skin and return the removed fittings to their place.

In the end, you can give our design a more attractive look. Furniture nails, decorative lace and our own imagination will help us with this. From the accumulation of hats, you can create an intricate figure.

Sheathing iron sheet

Upholstery of a metal door with leatherette is made according to a completely different method, which is simple. Everything is done like this:

• We cut off a piece of foam rubber (or other lining material) exactly along the entire length of the canvas, with a small margin.
• We apply glue to the original surface (with a tube or brush). Try to do this as quickly as possible before a seizure occurs.

Tip: if you do not have enough skill, you can divide the foam rubber into two parts and glue one first, then the second.

• We take foam rubber, carefully try it on and press it to the original surface. If we use the "Moment", then the decisive factor is precisely the force of pressing, and not the duration.
• Then, with a clerical knife, we cut off the excess exactly along the profile of the iron sheet. Next, apply glue to the upper end of the sash.
• We glue leatherette on top (we cut it at the very beginning, along with foam rubber). We do this as carefully as possible, so later it will be impossible to correct the errors.
• We stretch the material and carefully check the accuracy of its location. Then we glue the remaining three sides. At the end, cut off the excess with a clerical knife.

That's all. The door, upholstered with leatherette, will keep heat in the apartment much better and improve the sound insulation of the room. This material does not need additional processing, but it can be coated with a protective composition for leather substitutes - this will extend the service life several times.

A material such as dermantin is very popular because of its technical properties and ease of care. So, leatherette is able to withstand harsh conditions of cold and moisture, is stable and durable, easy to clean and withstands high temperatures. Also dermantin is known because of its low cost. Of the minuses, the impossibility of restoring the material is noted: despite the resistance to mechanical stress, after damage to any area, the entire leaf will need to be replaced, because the door will lose its aesthetic appearance even after gluing the gaps.

Step-by-step guide to upholstery of iron and other doors with dermantine

Upholstery of doors with leatherette is an easy and inexpensive way to decorate and insulate a home, which begins with the entrance to a house or apartment.

To perform this work, you will need to know some of the features of the door trim. Namely: the properties and characteristics of leatherette, the lining material used, tools when working with wood or metal, decorative, fasteners and more.

Dermantine (from ancient Greek leather) is a type of artificial leather made from cotton fabric and a layer of nitrocellulose covering the fabric on one or both sides.

Leatherette for upholstery of doors is positioned on the market as a substitute for expensive genuine leather, not inferior to it in terms of individual characteristics. It is also used for furniture upholstery, book pieces, bags, wallets and car interiors.

Dermantin is a finishing material that has the following advantages:

• Not subject to rotting and decomposition, resistant to various microorganisms;
• Moisture resistant, does not allow moisture to penetrate into the layer of lining material, protecting it from the appearance of mold and unpleasant odors;
• Relatively durable material that can last ten years with proper care;
• Resistant to abrasion and chemical reagents (acids and alkalis);
• Easy to wash and clean with conventional detergents: soap and powder;
• Frost-resistant, able to withstand temperatures up to minus 35 degrees (depending on the type of leatherette).

Despite all the positive properties of dermantin, many are not satisfied with its shortcomings, namely: with the slightest damage (cut or rupture), the leather substitute cannot be repaired and a separate part replaced, thus full door upholstery with dermantin is required.

When burning, the leather substitute emits harmful substances that are unsafe for human health and contributes to the rapid spread of fire, as it is combustible and fire hazardous. These disadvantages are not so important, given that dermantin has a lot of useful consumer qualities, some of which are described above.

The distinctive properties of leatherette include the fact that leatherette can be easily and simply cut, it does not crumple, does not wrinkle and does not shrink. In addition, there is a fairly wide selection of material colors on the market from gray to red. So you can choose what will most harmoniously fit into the interior of the apartment.

What characteristics should be considered when buying leatherette? When buying leatherette for upholstery, you should pay attention to how the material stretches, whether it forms cracks when stretched. Also look at such a parameter as wear resistance, it should be at least 30,000, and preferably all 50,000 cycles. The greater the number of cycles, the stronger the fabric is to abrasion.

Leatherette should be resistant to kinks from bending the material and scratches. Also consider leatherette's UV resistance characteristics if your door is exposed to direct sunlight most of the time.

The surface of the leatherette can be smooth or matte, imitate aged leather, etc. Pay attention to the color scheme of the artificial turf, what color and texture will best harmonize with the design of handles and hinges, a peephole and other fittings.

Regular and decorative upholstery

When choosing material for upholstery in a store, take into account the type of door constriction. There are two types of screed: regular and decorative.

Conventional upholstery includes a simple trim of the door leaf with a smooth sheet of leatherette, which is attached to the base only at the edges. A decorative tape is also attached around the perimeter, fixed to the door every 10 cm.

Decorative or carriage upholstery of doors with dermantine is a kind of decoration performed on a base of wood or MDF - panels nailed to the door leaf.

First, the fabric is stretched over the entire door leaf, and then in some places it is fixed with buttons or nails with leather caps. In this case, the pattern on the canvas from the buttons can be diamond-shaped or square, depending on the preferences of the owner of the premises.

Sheathing elements for a wooden door: rollers, lining material, nails

When preparing for a hauling, it is important to know about the basic materials and elements due to which the door sheathing process takes place.

rollers

When upholstering doors with dermantine, rollers are used. A roller is a special element that serves to protect the house from drafts and cold. It forms a tube of lining and leatherette, nailed around the entire perimeter of the entrance to the door leaf or to the door frame.

The method of placement depends on the type of door opening. If it opens into the room, then the roller is placed on the back side of the entrance to the house. The roller should extend beyond the box by a few millimeters. In this case, the distance between the canvas and the roller should be such that the roller "slows down" the opening of the door and it slams shut with little effort.

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is carried out without a roller in only one case: if the metal structure is installed without special bars that allow rollers to be attached to them.

backing material

Upholstery lining is most often used foam rubber or isolon with the addition of batting. It is not excluded the use of one batting or synthetic winterizer. When using the latter, a more rigid and ribbed structure is obtained.

Foam rubber allows you to achieve softer and smoother surface drops. It has better sound insulation properties than batting and synthetic winterizer, and isolon boasts the most outstanding thermal insulation.

Isolon is a new lining material made of polyethylene, more expensive, but also more perfect. It does not let in cold air and absorbs noise, being an environmentally friendly material.

Nails

Upholstery of doors with dermantine is carried out using special nails with wide hats. Sheathing nails can be either metal or leather (leatherette). Steel nails come in silver and gold.

Leather nails are made by hand, so their cost may be slightly higher than usual. In addition, there are special decorative nails that serve as door decoration.

To give the door leaf a beautiful and modern look, it is not at all necessary to spend huge sums on paying for hauling masters. Do-it-yourself door upholstery with dermantine is easy and simple, all you need is the correct preparation of the door for hauling and tools with materials.

Preparing the door for reupholstering

How to determine the dimensions of the material required for upholstery of doors with dermantine, given the dimensions of the door leaf?

The leatherette should be equal to the area of ​​the door plus 15 cm on each side.

For rollers, one cut 14-15 cm wide and equal to the height of the door and two cuts cut along the width of the door leaf are required. The number of rollers is increased if the door opens outwards (all four sides are upholstered). Foam rubber or isolon is cut out the size of a door leaf, the thickness of the insulation should be no more than 2 cm.

Let's count the number of nails. It depends on the pattern and the distance between the nails. For a standard door, you may need somewhere around 50-60 pieces, excluding the pattern.

Tools for work: hammer, stapler, knife, pliers, scissors, nails. For metal doors, upholstery is carried out without nails, on an adhesive basis. Glue will need at least 100 ml.

door technology

We free the door from everything superfluous: from handles, hinges, old upholstery, etc. At the first stage, they will only interfere. The methods of fastening the leatherette to the door leaf differ depending on the material of the door.

Wood

We make rollers: right on the door we fix strips of leatherette face down with a stapler. We lay the tubes of insulation and tuck, closing the foam rubber. We clog with a stapler or nails. At the bottom of the door leaf, the material must be hammered so that the distance between the roller and the floor is 1-2 cm, otherwise the roller will simply rub off at the points of contact with the floor.

We strengthen the lining: we fix the foam rubber with a stapler starting from the middle of the door leaf (so the likelihood that the material will warp will be reduced to zero). We fix the lining so that the distance to the edge of the door is 1-2 cm. We fix the batting on the foam rubber layer (it protects the foam rubber from damage).

We fasten the dermantin: first, we turn it 6-8 cm from above and fix it with nails, making sure that there are no folds and creases. Then, straightening, we stretch on the sides and hammer with nails around the perimeter of the door. Properly stretched material does not wrinkle or form folds. The distance between the nails is a maximum of 10 cm, a minimum of 5 cm.

Metal

The door is removed and placed on a flat base, for example, on four stools. Lubricate with glue around the perimeter of the canvas and in the center, fix the insulation. Press the foam rubber to the surface and leave to dry a little.

Then the main cut of the leather substitute is glued starting from the top, just like with a wooden structure, moving to the sides and ending at the bottom.

Source: http://o-dveryah.ru/remont/obivka-dermantinom/

Sheathe the door with dermantine

If you want to update the entrance to your house without significant costs, there is a great way out of the situation - do-it-yourself upholstery of the door with dermantine.

To do this work is actually very simple, but you must first clarify all the nuances. Depending on the material from which the door leaf is made and the direction in which the door opens, there are certain differences in the principle of fastening the new upholstery.

Leatherette sheathing is a great way to update the door

Preparatory work

Among all the things that can sheathe an old wooden or metal door, dermantin is certainly the best option, it is quite affordable, looks good and is easy to work with.

First of all, you need to purchase all the necessary materials:

• dermantin (should be 10 cm more than the door leaf on each side);
• lining material;
• furniture nails;
• thin decorative cord;
• glue;
• furniture stapler.

It is better to remove the door leaf from the hinges, so it will be easier to work. Then remove all fittings, remove the old coating and clean the door of dust and grease.

In order to sheathe the door with dermantine as correctly as possible, it is necessary to pay attention to the direction in which it opens, this is necessary in order to use the number of rollers required in each case, if outside - you need four pieces for each side, inside - three are enough. These rollers will contribute to better insulation of the opening.

The upholstery of the front door carries a high mechanical load - this must be taken into account when choosing leatherette

For each roller, you will need a strip of leatherette 10-15 cm wide and a piece of lining, for example, a synthetic winterizer. Fasten one edge of the strip along one of the sides of the door face down, then roll up the padding polyester and wrap it with the second end of the dermantine. The work can be done with a stapler, nails or glue in the case of a metal sheet.

Attaching the backing material

Before sheathing the front door with dermantine, you should take care of its heat and sound insulation.

If you use foam rubber, the effect will be minimal, it is better to purchase a more modern material - isolon, it is quite dense and copes well with these tasks. The lining should completely cover the door leaf; on the side of the hinges, when opening it externally, it is necessary to leave a small indent.

Foam rubber is most often used as a lining material.

If you are working with a wooden door, the lining is fixed with a furniture stapler, placing staples every 15-20 cm along the perimeter of the canvas. If it is required to sheathe a metal door, the canvas is covered with a layer of glue, a heater is laid on top and gently pressed.

Working with dermantine

Now let's figure out how to wrap a metal door directly with dermantine. To neatly draw the edges, it is necessary to tuck the dermantine and, with the help of staples, fix its edge from the inside, then we glue the hem, the edge of the material with glue and press it. You need to move gradually in one direction.

The upholstery of the door is made using the simplest tools.

It is much easier to upholster a wooden door with dermantine with your own hands - we tuck the edges of the material and nail it with furniture studs with a wide hat in increments of 10-15 cm.

When doing this work, it is necessary to ensure that the places of fastening of the insulating rollers do not look out from under the bent edge of the leatherette, in addition, you need to step back from the edge a few millimeters so that the new upholstery does not interfere with the free movement of the canvas.

Final design

The last step is the installation of accessories. In the new upholstery, it is necessary to make cuts of the hole slightly smaller than the size of the holes in the canvas, this is very simple, since they are well felt through the leatherette and the substrate.

Reinstall the handle and lock, peephole, hinges. Then you can proceed with the installation of the canvas in the opening, put it on the hinges and you can enjoy the work done.

In order to make the final result look a little more interesting, you can not only sheathe the front door from the inside, but add a few curly elements to its surface. To do this, you can use the remaining furniture nails.

Carefully mark the places for their installation on the surface of the dermantine, after you hammer in the nails, you can tuck a decorative lace under them. Leatherette and soft lining will change: the contours will be pressed through and a peculiar pattern will appear on the surface of the door. Usually rhombuses are made in this way, but other schemes can be used.

The easiest way to work with a wooden door, but with a sufficiently thick and dense layer of the substrate, you can make such a decor on an iron door. To do this, you need to fasten the nails or buttons with a strong thread on the reverse side before sheathing the fabric, connecting the foam rubber and dermantin.

Do-it-yourself door sheathing with dermantine is quite simple and interesting, besides, it allows you not only to save on buying a new door, but also gives you a unique opportunity to create your own author's version of the finish. When done correctly, it will look no worse than the industrial version.

Source: http://dvervdome.ru/remont/obivka-dveri-dermantinom.html

Features of door upholstery with MDF panels and dermantine step by step

Overhaul of a worn out metal door is possible in several finishes. In this case, door upholstery is most often chosen, especially if we are talking about economy class models.

Many owners decide to sheathe the iron door on their own. An additional decorative layer will also become a good sound insulation. How the repair will be made depends primarily on the material of the canvas and the exposure of the structure to the environment.

Finishing the front door using MDF

The most common type of finishing of entrance doors is "tuning" with MDF panels. Such material is made of wood fiber and is divided into:

• Painted MDF. It is better not to use it for finishing metal entrance doors, since such canvases do not have high strength properties. With MDF panels of this type, it is better to finish from the inside.
• Laminated panels. Sufficiently durable and resistant to moisture cloth. Smooth surface completely imitates natural wood. It has moderate strength properties, and is resistant to moisture. Such panels can also sheathe the opening.
• Veneered MDF. Such upholstery for metal doors is the highest quality and durable option. The most commonly used veneer is oak or birch. In order not to increase the cost of the canvas, panels of expensive woods are rarely used: beech, mahogany or ash.

When repairing an MDF door with panels, it is necessary to prepare not only the main material, but also a number of additional ones, including for cleaning and removing grease from the metal surface.

If you plan to sheathe the opening, then you need to prepare wooden lintels to which MDF strips will be attached.

Of the tools, the following must be prepared in advance: a hammer, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws for attaching the canvas.

Installation work

Before starting the installation, you must be prepared for the fact that after the door trim is replaced, it will become wider. You will need to replace the lock, ties and handles. You may need to adjust the opening a little.

The installation process of MDF panels is divided into several main stages:

• Preliminary surface preparation. Before fixing MDF, a complete cleaning and degreasing is carried out. To improve the quality of adhesion of the web and panels, painting and pasting with a vinyl film is recommended.
• When the preparation process is over, the doors are upholstered with panels. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws in holes with an interval of 10-12 centimeters. So that the caps of the self-tapping screws do not stand out on the surface, a special sweat is performed.
• First, the inner lining is fastened to the screws, and the outer lining is already attached above it. If the doors are opened inside the housing, then the fastening of the panels is carried out in the reverse order.

• The repair with MDF panels is completed by the installation of door fittings. These are locks, handles and more.

When the installation is completed, it remains only to check the performance of the doors and all structural elements.

Having finished with the door with panels, you can sheathe the opening, both from the inside and outside of the room, if the quality of the material allows it.

Features of upholstery with dermantin and the choice of material

• A material such as dermantin is resistant to any temperature changes.
• With the ability to breathe, the material has the ability to repel moisture.
• Resistance to tearing and damage allows dermantine upholstery to serve for a long time.
• Ease of maintenance. After a certain period, only light treatment with special impregnation is required. Any contamination is quite simply removed with soap suds, ammonia or ordinary.
• Relatively low cost.
• Self-constriction with dermantine does not require additional hands.
• This is an environmentally friendly material.
• Excellent indicators of sound and thermal insulation.

When buying leatherette for door upholstery, you should pay attention to the thickness of the fabric that will serve as the basis, as well as the quality of the top coating. Preference should be given to a durable material that slightly springs when stretched.

High-quality dermantin will not have stains from paint, and when held over it with a fingernail, it will not leave marks. You do not need to buy material with a pungent odor, as it does not weather well, and will be felt in the room for a long time.

Buying dermantin costs 15-20 cm more than the door leaf.

Padding with dermantine

The easiest way to haul dermantin will be on the removed doors. The door fittings, the old coating are also removed, and all dirt and dust is cleaned.

Before starting the upholstery of doors with dermantin, sound and heat insulation is carried out. Previously, foam rubber was used, but today it is best to purchase isolon for such purposes, which is denser and better copes with the task. A layer of isolon should cover the canvas of the entrance doors, and a small indent is left on the side of the hinges.

The insulation is glued to the metal door with a special glue, which is applied in a thin layer around the perimeter of the canvas.

You can enhance sound insulation by creating rollers along the edging. To create them, you will need a piece of lining and a strip of leatherette 10-15 cm long. The roller is glued to the canvas.

The next step will be the hauling of the doors with dermantin. For a neat design of the edges, the dermantine is tucked up and, using staples, is fixed from the inside. The bend is smeared with glue and pressed. All actions are performed strictly in one direction.

When the hauling is completed, the fittings are installed. The holes in the upholstery are made a little smaller than in the canvas. Handles and locks are installed. It remains only to install the doors on the hinges and you can enjoy the work.

To make the result more interesting, you can add several curly elements. For such purposes, the remaining door nails are suitable. According to the dermantin, the places for their installation are outlined, and then the nails are hammered. Under them, you can tuck a decorative cord, which will make the door more interesting. In this way, you can make rhombuses and other patterns.

A doorway with such a sheathing is adjusted to the general interior of the room.

Source: https://golddveri.ru/vxodnye-dveri/obivka-dverej.html

How to sheathe a door with dermantine

Entrance doors are, of course, first of all, protection from unexpected guests, as well as from the penetration of cold air into the room, extraneous sounds, and so on. However, its functionality does not end there.

The door leaf is also, one might say, a business card or face of a house or apartment. After all, when visiting someone, the first thing we see is, of course, the front door. That is why the appearance of the door leaf is a rather important aspect.

The most popular and cost-effective method of improving the appearance of this element of the house is its sheathing with materials intended for this purpose. Probably the most used of them is dermantin. How to sheathe a door with dermantin with your own hands will be discussed in this publication.

Advantages of dermantin

This sheathing material has a number of advantages compared to other similar materials:

• High quality at low cost. Modern types of this sheathing material practically do not differ from natural types of leather. However, it is many times cheaper than genuine leather. Therefore, upholstery of the door with dermantine is also economically beneficial;
• This upholstery does not shrink. Its dimensions do not change under the influence of ambient temperatures, and it is not afraid of exposure to moisture, while not losing its qualities;
• It is an excellent heat and sound insulator. The canvas, sheathed with leatherette, retain even more heat and prevent the penetration of extraneous sounds into the room. Therefore, door insulation with dermantin is often used along with sheathing;
• Easy care. To maintain a decent appearance of the door leaf sheathed with this material, it is enough to wipe the surface of the sheathing from time to time with a damp cloth, it is possible using degreasing detergents;
• Excellent decorative properties. Due to the variety of texture and color schemes, dermantin sheathing of entrance doors can give it a completely different, modern and stylish look.

How to choose material

When choosing the material that will be used for thermal insulation and upholstery of the front door with leatherette, you should pay special attention to its base, as well as to the quality of its coating. Most preferred is a dense, slightly springy material when stretched.

The absence of stains from paint indicates the high quality of this material. Good and high quality leatherette is scratch resistant.

When choosing the material that will be used for thermal insulation and upholstery of the front door with leatherette, you should pay special attention to its base, as well as to the quality of its coating.

To check its quality, it is enough to run a fingernail over its surface - no traces should remain on high-quality material. And finally, about one more important nuance when choosing high-quality leatherette: pay attention to the smell of this material.

Cheap and low-quality, it tends to exude a specific "ambre" with chemical undertones. This can be a very serious problem, especially if the door trim is on the inside.

Required Tools

Before sheathing the doors with dermantin, it is necessary to prepare the necessary tools. This list is quite short:

• Nails with wide (better decorated) hats;
• Sandpaper. Preferably fine-grained;
• A hammer;
• Scissors or sharpened penknife;
• A screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver (needed to dismantle existing fittings);
• Pliers and pliers. In case, when cleaning the door leaf, you have to remove old nails;
• Construction stapler.

Preparing for sheathing

In order for the upholstery to lie on the door leaf evenly, beautifully, without distortions, the latter must be prepared for the sheathing process. Consider how to sheathe the door step by step:

Having removed the canvas from the hinges, we dismantle all the fittings on it (latches, locks, handles, viewing eye, and so on).

1. We release it from the old skin, if any.
2. If there are any significant irregularities on the canvas, for example, the remnants of old paint, then, before sheathing the door with dermantine with our own hands, we clean it all with fine-grained sandpaper.

After all the preparatory operations done, it is possible, as an additional protection for the door leaf, to degrease its surface with any degreasing agent and cover it with some kind of antiseptic. After that, the canvas should dry a little.

Sheathing process

If it is planned to lay insulation and lining materials, they should be prepared and marked out in advance. Then begins, in fact, do-it-yourself upholstery of doors with dermantin.

1. We measure the height and width of the door leaf.
2. We mark and cut the leatherette according to the measurements obtained, not forgetting to make 10-15 cm allowances for each side.
3. On a pre-prepared door leaf, we evenly spread the marked and cut out sheathing material.
4. On one of the edges of the canvas, we tuck it in and fasten it on the other side of the door with staplers. It will not work to sheathe an iron door with such brackets, therefore such canvases are sheathed using special self-tapping screws.
5. We smooth the upholstery by pulling it over the surface of the door leaf, starting from the fixed edge to the opposite end. After that, we perform step 4 on all other ends. As a result, we get a surface completely covered with dermantin.
6. The final step of the sheathing is the final fixing of the leatherette sheathing with curly nails with wide hats.

At the final step of the sheathing, when the finishing is almost completed, there is an opportunity to give free rein to your own imagination. To decorate a sheathed door with dermantine with your own hands, you can use a variety of decorative corners, slats, curly elements, and so on.

Everything is limited only by the imagination and financial capabilities of the owner. If desired, sheathing the door with your own hands with dermantine and decorating it, you can get your own exclusive design of the "gate" of your house.

Source: https://uteplix.com/obyekty/dver/kak-obshit-dveri-dermantinom.html

How to sheathe a door made of wood, metal - video

The easiest and most popular way to give the door an attractive appearance is to upholster or sheathe it with some material. This can be done both from the premises and from the outside, you just have to use different materials and different technologies. But in any case, the process is called "door upholstery." About all the subtleties and nuances - below.

How can you beat the door

There are two types of door upholstery - soft and hard. Soft is made of two materials - leatherette (leatherette) and vinyl leather. Leatherette is a woven cotton base coated with a film of nitrocellulose. This material was popular in the 40-60s of the last century, as it was practical and inexpensive.

A little later, vinyl artificial leather appeared. This material is made on different bases - woven and non-woven, stretching and not. Accordingly, artificial leather has different properties. A layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC or PVC) is applied to the base. It is more durable, chemically neutral.

It has only one significant drawback - it reacts poorly to ultraviolet rays - it loses elasticity, changes color, and may crack. Therefore, the upholstery of doors that go directly to the street is undesirable with vinyl leather.

Leatherette door upholstery: several options

Now about a little confusion in terminology. Dermantine in its pure form, as it was in the last century, has not been produced for quite a long time. Instead, there are different types of vinyl faux leather.

There are also materials coated with other polymers, but not so many. Here they are, according to old memory, and are called dermantin or leatherette (although it is correct, by the way, to say “dermatin” without “n”).

Despite the fact that the material is essentially the same, it has different characteristics and appearance. There are elastic types that stretch well, there are hard ones that are difficult to stretch. In addition, modern artificial leather has many colors and shades, it can have a different surface structure:

• smooth - shiny and matte, there is even a metallic effect;
• porous;
• structured, imitating different types of skin (snake, crocodile, etc.).
• under crocodile skin

So the choice of soft upholstery materials for the door is extensive. Apparently, this is the determining factor in the popularity of this type of door upholstery.

There are more hard upholstery materials for doors, although they are used less often:

• MDF panels with a thickness of 8 mm to 18 mm;
• natural wood - fragments, array;
• veneer;
• laminate;
• plastic;
• postforming.

From this list, most often the doors are trimmed with MDF overlays / panels. Such upholstery is especially popular for decorating metal doors, including home-made ones. The panels are made according to the dimensions of a particular door leaf, after which they are installed on glue or mounting foam in fixed starting strips. In this case, it makes sense to make slopes from MDF.

From the catalog - options for MDF overlays, and all this is still in different colors ...

In practice, the door trim is also covered with other materials - laminate, plastic, postforming. Starting profiles are installed along the perimeter of the door, into which fragments of trim trimmed “to size” are inserted. Everything is simple, if you have basic skills in working with a drill, saw and hammer, you can do it yourself in a few hours.

Door upholstery with dermantine

The most popular way to trim a door is with artificial leather. Such a department allows, simultaneously with improving the appearance, to increase the indicators of heat and sound insulation. But this type of door upholstery also has disadvantages - this is the most complex technological process, requiring at least a general idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe procedure.

Upholstery methods

We will talk about the technology of upholstery of doors with dermantine. You can attach it in two ways: with a roller around the perimeter of the door leaf and without it. Depending on this, the order of actions changes (more on that later).

For banners, you can use the same material that upholstered the doors. It is cut into strips 2.5-3 cm wide, attached to the upper nails, and then pulled and fixed by the next nails, a pattern is formed.

To secure the strip, it can be wrapped around a nail that is not completely driven in, which is then hammered. But this option is suitable if the decorative nails have large hats.

If the hats are small, the strips are nailed.

Also, a pattern can be formed using a thin metal flexible cable, but it is more difficult to fix it - it bends worse.

How and how to attach leatherette to the door leaf

If upholstery of a wooden door is necessary, there are usually no questions - they are fastened with staples from a stapler, then nailed along the contour with decorative nails. Only here there are nuances: the staples should be with a wide back (at least 1 mm), and the nails should be wallpaper, with a wide hat. Fastener installation step - from 2.5 to 7 cm, as desired.

More questions arise when it is necessary to cover an iron door with leatherette. There is only one way out - to put on glue. Glue is usually used "Moment", but you can use any other universal glue that can be used to glue both metal and leatherette.

They lubricate the flashing from the inside (a bar that goes along the perimeter of the door and closes the junction of the canvas with the door frame). When fixing vinyl artificial leather, it is cut out with a margin of 15 cm, just for the hem from both sides to the wrong side.

Materials for heat and noise insulation

Most often, foam rubber is used to insulate the door. It is inexpensive, if desired, allows you to form a three-dimensional convex pattern. The most common case is two layers of foam rubber 1 cm each.

This option is not the best - foam rubber has almost no effect on the soundproof properties of the door, and this is sometimes very important.

In addition, after 3-4 years, it loses elasticity, begins to stick together, you have to re-upholster the door, although the appearance of the leatherette is still quite decent.

It is used for heat and sound insulation of cars. Sold in small sheets, the back side is coated with an adhesive, protected by a plastic film. So there will be no problems with installation. Of the minuses - the price and the rather large weight of the material.

To avoid problems, it is worth replacing the loops with more powerful ones.

There are two other materials used in the automotive industry with similar properties. These are "Splen" and "Vibrofilter". All of them are made on an adhesive basis, can be used to improve the characteristics of the door.

How to beat a wooden door

It is more convenient to work on the removed door, but if this is a problem, you can upholster it right on the spot. First you need to remove all fittings from the door leaf - locks, latches, door peephole.

If there is old upholstery, it is carefully removed. If a part of the door needs repair, the damaged fragments are removed and replaced with cut-to-size wooden ones.

Slots can be covered with putty or foamed with mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion.

With their help, then we will break through the foam rubber and upholstery in the right places (just press with your fingers, all layers will push through). We will pull out ordinary nails, install decorative ones in their place, and with the help of tape we will form a pattern.

The procedure is simple.

with roller

To make the end of the door look no worse than the rest of the plane, we start with it. If you are not going to finish one of the sides, skip this step, just paint the end with paint to match the finish on one or the other side.

If we upholster the doors on both sides, we cut out a strip of material about 10 cm wide. More precisely, look at your door, since the thickness of the canvas is different. The strip should cover the end and go to one and the other side by 3-4 cm.

Lay the strip, fasten along the edge with staples from a stapler (faster and easier) or nails with a large flat head.

To form a roller, a strip of material is also needed. Width - 10-15 cm depending on how wide you want the roller. Next, there are two options:

• Immediately form a roller. To do this, a tourniquet of foam rubber or batting is laid in the middle of the strip, crimped in the middle. In this form, it is fixed around the perimeter of the door. After, from above, foam rubber and material are laid. To form a neat edge, the material is tucked inward.
• The roller is formed immediately, in finished form it is attached along the perimeter of the web
• The roller is formed later, after the vinyl is laid on the canvas. Here the technology is different - the strip is attached around the perimeter, face down. Then foam rubber and upholstery are attached. The edges are not tucked, just cut to size. After the end, the strip is wrapped on the front side (you can put a strip of foam rubber into it), folded over and fastened with wallpaper nails.
• The strip for the roller is fixed in advance, it itself is formed after the upholstery is fixed

The difference between these two methods is only in appearance: in the first case, the nails are nailed along the edge of the upholstery, in the second - along the edge of the cushion. Choose whichever you like best. For example, it seems to me that the first option (on the right) looks better - more neat. But this is just a personal opinion.

What is this roller for? In order to cover possible gaps between the canvas and the jamb. Thus, we avoid the appearance of drafts and reduce heat loss.

But you can make a roller only if the doors are upholstered from the opening side (the doors open into the apartment, so we upholster them from the inside). If, on the other hand, this focus does not pass, it will not close.

Then you have to do without a roller.

without roller

In this case, everything is simple: the canvas is tucked evenly, fixed with nails or staples - as it suits you best.

door upholstery process

To reduce the noise level, the doors are upholstered with one layer of sound insulation and one layer of foam rubber. The option with preliminary production of the roller is chosen. First, they removed the old fittings, cut in a new lock. The lining and handle were removed, the internal parts remained in place. Let's move on to the door trim.

We immediately form a roller - we put narrow foam rubber in a strip of dermantine, fasten it along the perimeter of the door. It is more convenient to do this with staples from a stapler.

The next step is to fix the soundproofing. It is on an adhesive basis, so there are no problems - they cut it to size, carefully removing the film and glued it. When gluing, we try to squeeze out all the air, for this we tear off the film gradually, ironing the material from edge to edge.

We glue soundproofing

We lay and fix the foam rubber

The foam rubber is cut out with a small margin, after installation, the excess is cut off.

We tuck the upper edge by 2-3 cm, we begin to fasten from the upper left corner. There we hammer in the first nail, then we straighten the material and nail the second one at the top right. Then, in increments of 3-4 cm, we nail the upholstery from one edge to the other with finishing nails.

We fasten from the side of the loops, tucking the edge inward. Straighten evenly so that there are no creases at the top.

We nail from the side of the loops

Install locks and hardware

How to upholster metal doors

The front part of metal doors is rarely upholstered - it already has a very attractive appearance. The inner part suffers more often. That's what we'll talk about.

On the inside of the iron door there is a frame. In some models it is metal, in others it is wooden. Thermal insulation material is laid between the slats of the frame. It can be foam or mineral wool boards. They are attached to mounting foam, which has a very small coefficient of expansion (mandatory!). From above, everything is closed with a sheet of plywood or OSB.

This is the standard option. If the planks are wooden, everything is fine, there are no problems - the doors will not freeze through. But if the frame inside the door is metal, in good frosts everything will freeze through - through cold bridges, which are metal ribs.

The remaining processes for upholstery of a metal door are very similar to those described above. All the difference is in the method of fixation: the upholstery is glued to a suitable high-quality glue. The excess is immediately cut off at the junction using a sharp wallpaper knife.

This is where the classic mistake was made - there is no layer that cuts off the bridges of cold. Everything else is shown well.

How to sheathe a door - choose the material and do the work yourself

Sooner or later there comes a moment when the front door loses its presentable appearance during operation. Of course, you can replace it with a new one, but if the structure itself is still strong and reliable, it is better to get by with cosmetic repairs, especially since covering the door with a finishing material will cost much less.

If you follow the technology, it will not be difficult to sheathe the doors yourself. Consider the features of finishing wooden and metal doors, as well as the nuances of choosing materials for them.

Choosing a material

The range of finishing materials for doors is large and they all have their pros and cons. In order not to get confused and choose the right one, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of the most popular of them.

Vinyl leather

This material is one of the varieties of artificial leather. It is a film applied on top of a fibrous web. The basis for vinyl artificial leather can be paper, knitwear or other fabric, which is usually impregnated with special polymer compounds to increase strength.

The material can have different colors and textures, in addition, it has an affordable price and is practical to use. Therefore, vinyl leather sheathing is a good replacement for natural, very expensive material.

clapboard

Lining - these are slats made of wood, MDF or plastic, equipped with special grooves that make it easy to assemble them into a single canvas. It is suitable for finishing both wooden and metal structures, however, it is much more difficult to mount it on the latter.

For the outer part of the door, it is preferable to use a material resistant to external influences, for example, larch.

But keep in mind that such panels can fade in the sun, so upholstery of doors with plastic clapboard will be unprofitable if they are often exposed to direct sunlight.

Faux leather

Leatherette is an artificial material that mimics the structure of natural leather. In addition to its attractive appearance, it has other advantages:

• strength;
• profitability;
• simple care.

The disadvantage is sensitivity to temperature extremes and high humidity, which leads to cracking and thus reduces the life of the coating.

Leatherette

The name of this material comes from the Greek word "derma", which means skin. In construction terminology, dermatin is usually called leather imitation. Surely many have heard of him. But why is this material so popular?

The prevalence of leatherette for various finishing works is explained by its positive qualities, such as:

• Affordable price. Although you need to understand that Leatherette is a popular material for sheathing, that too cheap material will most likely not be of high quality, so it is better to choose trusted manufacturers, even if the cost of their products is slightly higher.
• Presentable appearance and variety of shades.
• High strength and wear resistance.
• Noise isolation properties.
• Preservation of heat in the house.
• Easy care (the material is well cleaned and is not afraid of moisture).

Also, leatherette is easy to process and stack, which allows you to work even without special skills. An additional plus of this coating is vapor permeability, which means that the door under the skin will be able to "breathe", which means that the wood under it will not become damp and moldy.

Leather

The door, upholstered in genuine leather, looks luxurious and emphasizes the viability of the owners, which is appreciated in some circles of society. In favor of the leather coating is also evidenced by:

• material durability;
• good sound insulation;
• additional protection against heat leakage.

But the price of such upholstery will be several times higher than that of various substitutes. Another nuance that should be taken into account is the need for careful skin care using special products to maintain its elasticity.

PVC film

Polyvinyl chloride film, which usually has a self-adhesive backing, is a very practical and inexpensive material. The top layer of this coating can imitate various textures: stone, wood, velor, metal, etc. Such a film is sold in rolls and is a good way to update the surface of a metal or plastic door. Its main advantages:

• undemanding to care;
• small price;
• simple installation;
• moisture resistance;
• no damage during installation on the glued surface.

True, there are several disadvantages - the inability to hide serious defects in the door leaf and a relatively short service life.

The listed materials are the most commonly used for upholstery and among them there is sure to be a solution suitable for your home.

Of course, the final choice depends on your preferences, financial capabilities, the condition of the door and the material from which it is made.

Considering that the correct installation of the coating is no less important than the right material, several ways of sheathing metal and wooden doors will be considered below using the example of lining and leatherette.

Leather upholstery

So, how to sheathe the door with leatherette with your own hands? The process has some differences for wooden and metal structures, however, the preparation stage and the necessary tools in both cases are almost identical.

Upholstery preparation

To independently carry out the installation of the coating, you will need the following tools:

• sharp stationery knife and large scissors;
• industrial stapler;
• a hammer;
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• brush.

Before starting work, you will need to dismantle all fittings from the door (peephole, handles, lock). Then the structure is removed from the hinges and inspected for any defects, if any, they must be eliminated.

Next, the leatherette should be cut to the size of the door, making an allowance of 10-15 cm on all sides. In addition, you can not do without cushioning material, which will give the upholstery the desired volume. If the door is not located inside the dressing room, but goes outside, then it is advisable to take care of its insulation. This function can be performed by the following materials:

• isolon tape - has a long service life (about 70 years), is effective, but quite expensive;
• foam rubber - can last about 15 years and has average heat retention;
• batting - the service life is 30 years, it has good performance, but somewhat makes the door structure heavier.

Wooden door upholstery

The upholstery process begins with laying a heater cut to the size of the structure on the prepared door leaf. The material must be fixed with a construction stapler or nails; before that, it is worth lubricating the surface of the door with glue for a stronger fixation.

The upholstery fabric is laid in such a way that the overlap on all sides is the same. Then the edges are folded inward, monitoring the uniformity of the fold of the fabric and its tension.

After the fabric is securely fastened, you can give the coating a pattern using decorative tape and upholstery nails. Ready-made patterns of the pattern are shown below, but you can also invent something new, focusing on your taste and imagination.

Upholstery of a metal door

The upholstery of a metal door is made a little differently, but this process is even simpler than in the case of a tree. After all, you don’t have to nail leatherette to the metal, and it is this part of the work that is the most time-consuming.

After preparing the canvas, which is identical to that described above, the door is removed from the hinges and placed in a horizontal position.

The insulation is attached to the metal with glue, trying to lay it correctly the first time in order to avoid further displacements.

Then, leatherette itself (part of the material with an overlap) is attached to the ends of the door, smeared with glue. It is better to start from the top, then fix the material from the side of the hinges and the lock, and complete the installation with the bottom end. In this case, it is important to avoid the occurrence of folds and distortions.

After the glue dries, use a sharp clerical knife to remove excess material and install the fittings back.

This completes the work, and your front door not only looks updated, but also provides additional heat retention in the house.

Clapboard door lining

Another way to inexpensively and tastefully update the door structure is to make doors from lining with your own hands.

Where to start? For wooden panels, the following advice is relevant: if the finishing material you have stored outside the house, but will be used for interior cladding, then a few hours before the start of work, it is worth bringing it inside the room in which the decoration is planned. This will allow the wood to adapt to the humidity and temperature.

Wooden door

For sheathing a wooden door, you will need the following materials and tools:

• panels of the selected material;
• measuring instruments (tape measure, level);
• pencil;
• suitable cutting tool;
• screwdriver;
• planer and sandpaper;
• screws or nails;
• varnish and brushes.

Preparatory work is similar to that performed when sheathing leatherette. The door leaf will also need to be dismantled, cleaned and removed fittings. Then you need to decide on the direction of the skin - it will be horizontal or vertical.

The lining begins to be mounted from the lower edge of the door, checking the accuracy of its location with a level. It is better to fasten the material with special finishing nails, which will stand out less against the background of the coating, but self-tapping screws can also be used.

During installation, the panels are fixed closely, inserting each subsequent one into the connector of the previous one, and the sides are closed with special corners. After the completion of the main work, the lining can be varnished. Then, after waiting for it to dry completely, fittings are installed on the door, and the structure itself is returned to its place.

Metal door with clapboard trim

Metal doors sheathed with clapboard, in view of the strength of the metal, will be a little more difficult to make. To fix the panels, you will have to build a wooden frame attached to the door structure, and then mount the finishing material on it.

To make a frame you need:

• bars or slats made of wood;
• drill and screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• saw;
• pencil and tape measure.

The slats need to be adjusted to the dimensions of the door (length and width). Then drill holes in them for the diameter of the self-tapping screws, attach the components of the frame to the surface of the door and through these holes put marks on the metal. In the intended places, the metal structure will also need to be drilled.

Further, the frame elements are attached to the door leaf with self-tapping screws. The resulting design can perform another function - to serve as the basis for laying insulation. If you want to reduce heat loss, the selected heat-insulating material is placed between the frame rails.

The next stage of work is finishing. The panels are mounted in the same way as described for a wooden door and using similar materials.

Clapboard panels are a good solution for finishing and simultaneously insulating the door

Decorating a door is a fascinating and creative process, but a responsible one.

A serious approach and a little training before finishing work will allow you to turn your ideas into reality, and the result will be a reason for pride.

metal door trim

Any front door is the hallmark of your home, and all residents of the apartment would certainly want the entrance to the home, from the outside, to seem strong and beautiful.

Because it often fully characterizes the owner of the apartment. With a wooden door, everything is very simple and easy - after installing it, you will need to slightly treat the surface with stain or varnish.

Not only an angry dog, but also an iron door will help you protect your home from unfamiliar guests.

All entrance doors, most often, are purchased with a ready-made finish. But the door trim is so primitive and easy to perform, especially often seen on inexpensive types of front doors, that most buyers will immediately want to redo it in their own way.

For these purposes, it is necessary to use a variety of materials, which are divided into groups according to the type of installation and methods of application.

MDF

MDF metal door sheathing is the most common and well-known way of processing the door leaf. This wood fiber material can be divided into the following types:

1. colored.
2. veneered.
3. laminated.

Painted MDF - this type of material, in the case of our canvas, it is advisable not to use, because its painted surface lacks high strength properties. It is best used for indoor work.

Laminated MDF panels are moderately moisture resistant and have a large margin of safety. The first layer of the panel consists of PVC and has an excellent decorative property: it has a smooth surface and a variety of textures, imitating natural wood.

Sheathing metal MDF doors with overlays is what is really used as upholstery for the door leaf.

Very rarely, veneer from expensive tree species is used - ash, beech or mahogany. Accordingly, the cost of canvas with MDF increases.

Laminate

Also, the sheathing of metal doors is upholstered with a laminate, which is used, as a rule, as a floor covering. It differs slightly in composition from laminated MDF, but it has a relatively large margin of safety.

As a basis for a laminate, a fibreboard with a significant density is used. It is bonded together with paper layers, and treated with melamine or acrylic resin, resulting in a material that resembles a "layer cake" in shape.

Since the laminate is not affected by ultraviolet rays, temperature fluctuations and high humidity, it is easy for them to beat not only the entrance to the housing, but also the entrance to the cottage, which is located on the street.

powder coating

Sheathing of metal doors with powder coating is made in a special way, in the conditions of the factory.

This coating method is the highest quality, while a special technology is used for painting powder paint on the surface of the door leaf, which is applied using the electrostatic spraying method, and then the metal is baked in an industrial oven at high temperature.

Spraying with a special powder is not subject to mechanical stress, has dielectric and antistatic characteristics.

A huge selection of colors will help update the look of your door and pick up any imitation - leather, granite or gold.

Coating with such paint is the most expensive type of finish. If you wish to decorate a metal sheet with forged elements, then the price will directly consist of the complexity of making such elements.

Sheathing of metal fabric clapboard

Sheathing of a metal sheet is usually sheathed with a wooden lining.

This type of boards is made from various types of wood, for this reason, the consumer will be able to choose and purchase really high-quality and relatively inexpensive finishing material.

If you sheathe a door using lining, then here you can become a real designer. Laths can be distributed at different angles, as well as decorative strips, carved, burned out, or simply painted.

You already have a question: "How to sheathe a door made of metal with a wooden clapboard?". After all, a tree cannot be nailed to a metal surface.

For the manufacture of a noise-suppressing layer, it is recommended to fill the cavity inside the structure with a heater.

We have shared with you the most famous upholstery methods. There are other types, these are: vinyl, leatherette and leather.

In the 90s, the sheathing of a metal door with dermantine was very popular among the people. This type of upholstery is the most economical, but it has also proven to be the most impractical.

The most expensive finish of the door leaf is considered to be the finish of solid oak. This method is uneconomical, due to the fact that this finishing technology can only be applied in production - it is quite difficult to work with this tree at home.

How to attach cladding panels?

The solution to this issue depends entirely on the condition of the canvas itself and the correct choice of material and upholstery method.

• If the cladding is made of MDF or laminate, then these panels must be attached with metal glue:
• For good adhesion of materials, it will be necessary to prime the surface of the door leaf. This is a necessary measure; without it, the connection of metal and panels may be short-lived.
• Liquid nails can be used to attach trim parts. For durable fastening of the decorative layer, it can be fixed using metal corners.
• The lining can also be fixed in the same way. But panels made of natural wood are much heavier in weight than a panel made of MDF, so if it is nailed, then its fixation will be much stronger.
• In other cases, fastening with glue is much more convenient and practical, since nails can only spoil the cladding.

As you have already seen, replacing the skin is not such a difficult job that a beginner and a professional can handle.

And finally, the most important thing - slopes

If you decide to install the door yourself, or improve the appearance of the old one, then this work cannot be completed if the slopes are not plastered correctly. A slope is such a part of the wall structure that frames the door leaf around the entire perimeter.

When dismantling the door leaf, the slopes may have a defect, both cosmetic and structural. Their finishing is carried out immediately after the installation of your door, while the assembly seam is strengthened. There are several finishing options available. A mini-instruction, which indicates the methods by which the slope is finished, is given below in the article:

• The simplest and most economical option is surface plastering. To do this, you need a special tool - a template.
• A template will be needed so that the angles at the slopes are accurate and even.
• First of all, the slope is plastered from above, and then the sides. When the work is finished, it will take time for the plaster to dry completely, and after that you can walk on its surface with sandpaper. And finally, cover it with a primer - and then paint it, or stick wallpaper.
• If there is no desire to deal with plaster, then you can finish the slopes with sheets of plastic or use drywall.

The choice of material for them is selected based on the type of door leaf finish or the nature of the adjoining wall to it.

• If we talk about the side of the slope that goes to the entrance, then we will need to either plaster the slope, or use drywall, and then paint it with a water-based emulsion. Plastic slopes can be used in the decoration of those parts that are located in the apartment itself or the hallway.
• In order for the slopes to look harmonious after the installation of the door leaf, it is necessary to use the materials with which you finished it. Laminate and MDF panels, in their structure, resemble the texture of wood, in this case, you can trim the slopes using these materials, after selecting the material by color.
• In order for the wooden slopes on your canvas to look elegant, you need to remember about the mounting seams. They will need to be sealed with foam, and cut off its excess.
• At the very beginning, the upper slope is set. It must be fixed with self-tapping screws or glued - the caps of the self-tapping screws will need to be hidden under decorative caps. The seams at the slopes are treated with transparent silicone sealant and then plastic corners or platbands are installed.

In this article, we shared with you how easy it is to beat your own front door and let it gain a second life. Repairing metal door trim is not the worst thing to do in your apartment.

Upholstery of metal doors - a detailed analysis of the most popular options

Suppose you decide to make a steel door with your own hands or want to buy one, but the upholstery of metal doors in the store leaves much to be desired. Don’t be discouraged, it’s not so difficult to sheathe a metal door yourself, and then we will tell you in detail how to sheathe the front door and the slopes to it on both sides, with all the pros and cons of the options that exist today.

The upholstery of the entrance metal door speaks of the status of the owner of the house.

How are the doors trimmed now?

First of all, remember that the sheathing of a metal door on the outside and the decorative trim on the inside are not at all the same thing. Even if visually the materials look the same, their characteristics or at least the level of processing are completely different.

After all, do not forget, we are talking about entrance doors, where the outer lining is regularly watered with rain, freezes and roasts in the sun, and from the inside, the finishing of metal doors is in the comfortable conditions of a residential building. By the way, at this address you can learn about the insulation of iron doors with your own hands.

Laminate

Finishing metal doors with laminate flooring has long ceased to be a curiosity. After all, the flooring was originally designed for quite serious loads:

Finishing an iron door with laminate flooring is a good and inexpensive option.

• It will not be difficult to wash an iron door finished with a whitewash laminate, clean it from dirt or footprints, because this coating is subjected to even greater tests on the floor;
• Any laminate can easily withstand the claws of pets, even a large dog is not able to scratch such a coating;
• A big plus in terms of design is the same finish of the floor, slopes and door leaf;
• The thickness of the planks ranges from 6 to 12 mm, the weight of the cladding is also not large, which is an additional plus when choosing;
• The planks are connected according to the thorn-groove principle, and after splicing they form a smooth monolithic surface, in which even the seams are palpable with difficulty;
• To fix it on the canvas, it is enough to clean and prime the steel sheet, after which you can safely glue the planks, for example, on liquid nails;
• If the doors are not sheathed from the inside with a solid steel sheet, then the laminate planks are attached to the bars of the inner crate, and in order to hide the hard-hitting cut and self-tapping screws, a plastic U-shaped profile is glued along the edge.

Finishing the door from the inside with a floor laminate for an amateur is quite realistic.

Now let's move on to the "pitfalls" there are also enough of them here. Let's start with the fact that the floor laminate, no matter how expensive and elegant, was originally created as an internal coating, which means that it is not designed for sudden changes in temperature, frost and excessive humidity.

Accordingly, they can only finish the doors from the inside. Exterior decoration is possible only in multi-storey buildings with relatively warm entrances.

If you decide to opt for a laminate, then keep in mind: this material is divided into 7 classes. If the marking starts with 2, then this material is made for apartments and private houses (21,22,23). Everything that starts with a three (31,32,33,34) is designed for commercial organizations, offices and shopping centers.

The classification of floor laminate depends on the level of wear resistance.

When buying, you do not need to listen to the persuasions of the consultant. The fact is that visually grades 21 and 34 may not differ in any way, and if you are not going to dance on your doors or wash them with a fire hose, then take the twenty-first grade, and the thinnest strips (6 mm), the price will please you.

MDF panels

MDF panels are solid large door linings; professionals call these panels cards. Now the upholstery of a metal door with such cards occupies almost half of the market.

Finishing metal entrance doors with MDF panels is now considered the most popular.

The material itself is made from wood dust and, according to the manufacturers, does not contain any harmful additives.

Wood dust is poured into molds, pressed and fried under high pressure, as a result, natural glue lignin is released from it, which turns the pressed mass into a monolithic sheet.

Before sheathing the canvas, you need to decide which panel you want to see. Sheathing the entrance metal door can be pure MDF, laminated or veneered.

To be honest, clean MDF sheets are not suitable for ennobling the door leaf. The top layer of the sheet is practically not protected, its appearance is rather mediocre and the maximum that can be done is to paint it with something, while you will not achieve special beauty.

The most common is laminated MDF, such cards have quite a few advantages:

• The laminated MDF card is resistant to fading;
• Finishing a metal door with your own hands will not be difficult for you, and both exterior and interior decoration are equally simple;
• For finishing work you need a minimum of tools. If you veneer only the door leaf, without slopes, then a drill and a screwdriver are enough;
• Washing an MDF card from stains and other troubles is as easy as a floor laminate;
• The door lining does not require additional adjustment and refinement, the product is immediately sold with fixed dimensions according to door standards. If your canvas is not standard, then you can use several small cards or order a panel according to your size;
• In serial factory doors, MDF panels are inserted into special grooves, so before you disassemble the old door, see if you have such grooves. The principle is simple, the side clip is removed, after which the old panel is moved to the side and pulled out, and the new one is inserted into its place.

Decor options for MDF door cards. The result of an incorrect choice of MDF cards.

In the elite sector, MDF panels covered with natural wood veneer are used to finish the entrance doors. Veneer is a thin slice of wood, so if you paste over an MDF panel with it, then it will not differ in any way from a natural board.

It turns out that for reasonable money you will make yourself elite wooden doors, for example, from oak. Of course, a veneered card is not cheap, but compared to a natural array, the difference will be at least 2 times.

Veneered MDF panels are practically no different from natural wood.

Most European companies produce cards covered with so-called eco veneer. If you do not go into details and brush off the advertising tinsel, then eco veneer is just high-quality plastic, which contains a certain percentage of wood.

About the same story with multi-veneer, but it can be seen with the naked eye. The drawing there is quite abstract, cubes, waves, mugs and a lot of other options, but this is natural wood, only pressed, glued and cut, here it’s already an amateur.

Leather upholstery

For many people, quilted door trim is associated with Soviet design. Indeed, if you take cheap leatherette and upholster the doors with it, then the view will not be the best, but do not rush to discard this option, with a reasonable approach, quilted upholstery can look luxurious.

Now you will not find doors trimmed with natural soft leather because it is very expensive. For sheathing, a new material called eco-leather is used, this material is a synthetic coating that visually and to the touch is no different from real leather.

In addition to a solid appearance, quilted lining has 2 tangible advantages: firstly, it is additional insulation, and secondly, serious sound insulation. For indoor cats and dogs, though, quilted upholstery is first in line for tearing.

The carriage coupler belongs to the elite finishing of the entrance doors.

The easiest way is to take eco-leather and sheathe a sheet of plywood with it, and use foam rubber as a filler. If you want to get a really luxurious door, then there is a carriage coupler for this, it is more difficult to make it, but the result is worth it.

If you decide to buy soft panels for doors, then keep in mind: high-quality upholstery is made from solid canvas. If you are offered a quilted panel sewn from pieces, then know that this is a cheap low-quality product.

Powder coating

Powder coating doors can not be done at home with your own hands. This is a high-tech process, the metal is cleaned, processed and a special paint is applied, after which the door is “roasted” in ovens, as a result, the surface acquires a unique protection.

A fine-grained film forms on the metal surface, which is easy to clean and reliably protects doors from corrosion. Manufacturers claim that such lining cannot be scratched, we do not know if these assurances are true, but powder paint withstands animal claws without problems.

Hammer paint is a good alternative to powder coating.

Hammer paint can be a good alternative to powder coating, you can paint doors with your own hands and at the same time the look will be no worse than that of powder coating. At "this address" you will learn how to correctly disassemble doors, how to wash metal from rust, and most importantly, how to paint the doors yourself.

clapboard

Lining for various types of finishes has been used for about 100 years and despite such an advanced age, it is still in the lead. Neat wooden planks are connected using tongue and groove technology. There are quite a few advantages to lining.

• Clapboard can be used for both exterior and interior decoration of doors, however, for exterior decoration, wood will have to be treated with complex primer and varnished for exterior work;
• The material is 100% environmentally friendly;
• Natural wood will never go out of fashion; with proper care, such doors will always look fresh and original;
• The lining installation technology is quite simple and accessible to any home master, we can assure you that even if you have never dealt with lining, during the day you will trim your front door with it;
• The slats can be combined as you like, as a result your door will have an original pattern.

Finishing iron doors with clapboard, novice craftsmen often do not know how to fix the slats on the metal. So from the inside, the lining is hemmed to a pre-fixed wooden crate, which in turn is attached to the stiffeners and the inner frame of the doors.

The outer cladding is prepared separately, first the lining is screwed with small screws to the plywood sheet, and then this shield is attached to the metal sheet. In order to securely fasten the facade shield, it will be necessary to drill about a dozen holes in the metal sheet and fasten it with self-tapping screws from the inside.

By the way, lining is not only wooden, now they produce many options for plastic lining. Theoretically, it is possible to sheathe doors with plastic, but not everyone likes such a lining, plus the strength of the plastic is not high.

A few words about finishing slopes

Slopes are called the part of the wall that frames the doors or windows, respectively, until the slopes are made, the door lining cannot be considered finished. In this case, experts identify 4 running options for facing slopes.

1. Plastering is considered the most reliable and durable. Such a slope will last for more than a dozen years, but not everyone can handle plastering, plus this is a rather dirty process;
2. No less reliable is the sheathing of slopes with drywall. GKL sheets can be either mounted on a crate or glued to a special building mixture, but after installation, drywall must be puttied;
3. Another popular way to finish door slopes is mounting on the crate. Everything is simple, the crate is stuffed on the slope, and already on the crate you can fasten everything you see fit - plastic, MDF, GKL, plywood, lining, etc.
4. But the most popular option now is telescopic slopes made of MDF. They are a kind of constructor. Depending on the thickness of the wall, the width of the additional plank is selected and the entire structure is installed in a couple of hours, the only problem is that telescopic slopes are much more expensive than the others.

The choice of upholstery for metal doors is a responsible matter, because it largely indicates the status of the owner. When making a decision, carefully weigh all the pros and especially the cons of the materials described above and let your door be the most beautiful in the area.

Any material wears out; the difference is only in the intensity of the process. Even metal doors installed at the entrance to the house, under the influence of precipitation, ultraviolet light, gradually lose their attractiveness; and wood - even faster. Upholstery of doors with dermantine with a competent approach allows, simultaneously with decorating the canvas, to increase its sound and heat insulation properties. Therefore, this method of finishing is often considered as one of the points of the whole complex of measures for warming a home.

Features of the choice of materials

Correctly sheathing the sash is still not enough to achieve the desired effect. You also need to understand what exactly. Leatherette in everyday life is called differently: leatherette, granitol, eco-, amidis- or vinyl leather. The latest technologies make it possible to supply the material to the market in various modifications, differing in texture, shades and a number of properties. Therefore, dermantin gradually became a generalized term. But door upholstery with leather (natural or its synthetic counterparts) is made according to one technology, with only slight variations, depending on what goals the master pursues (only decoration or also insulation), and what the canvas is made of (metal, wood) .

Preparation stage

When choosing a material for upholstery, you need to pay attention to its properties.

Dermantin

• Elasticity. Quality products should only slightly spring, but not stretch like rubber.
• Density. Too thin leatherette for upholstery of the front door, given the specifics of its use, intensity, it is not advisable to buy. But for interior it is quite suitable.
• Appearance. The presence of at least small stains on the painted material, the slightest spots, is a clear sign of a low-grade product.
• Smell. If it is clearly felt, you can not hope that it will soon disappear. Such leatherette, even suitable for all other criteria, is suitable only for exterior decoration of entrance doors. Definitely not worth using indoors.

What to consider:

• Upholstery should be purchased with a small margin, about 15% of the calculated value. Firstly, if the measurements are made inaccurately, then you don’t have to puzzle over how to get out of the situation. Secondly, in the process of do-it-yourself upholstery of doors, dermantine strips are often used as decorative elements for the sash. Therefore, a small margin will definitely not be superfluous.
• When choosing a material, the specifics of its use should be taken into account. For example, vinylis and eco-leather are excellent for exterior finishing of entrance doors, as they are characterized by inertness to low temperatures. But the latter has a porous structure, and therefore it is necessary to take into account such a factor as humidity at the door installation site. If the determining criterion is the strength of the upholstery, then it is better to give preference to amili leather.

insulation

• Foam rubber. Pros - a large selection of thicknesses, ease of cutting and laying, low cost. Approximate service life is 10 years. But all insulation characteristics are at the level of average values.

• Batting. This heater will last about 3 times longer. But there are significant disadvantages: it gradually sags, accumulates moisture, toxic components and acrid smoke are released during combustion.

• Isolon (a kind of PES). One of the modern versions of roll insulation materials. Differs in the increased noise absorption and low thermal conductivity. Upholstery of wooden doors using such a substrate is one of the best options for their insulation.

Additional materials

• fastener elements. For wooden canvases, upholstery studs with large hats are needed. The range of products is significant, and it is not difficult to match the color and texture of artificial leather. Plus - staples for a construction stapler, for insulation. But for sheathing an iron door, you will need a special (polymer) glue, which fixes the heat insulator and dermantin.
• Decorative cord (or braid). Options are steel strings or self-made upholstery strips.
• Number plate. If you get off the door to the apartment, then you will definitely need it.

Step-by-step instruction

Training

• Dismantling. It will not work to sheathe the door with dermantine, moreover, with high quality insulation, without removing it from the hinges. It is laid on any base or supports that will ensure its stability. For the convenience of upholstery, it is advisable to lay the sash on 4 stools.
• Surface cleaning. Depending on the design of the canvas, all fittings, locks, and old trim are removed from it.
• External inspection of the base. Minor defects do not matter: they will be hidden by dermantin. But if signs of rot, fungus, small cracks are found on the wooden door, then the necessary measures should be taken: treat the wood with preparations, seal small splits with adhesive sealant.

Insulation mount

• There are different opinions about the advisability of laying it, and most users refer to the specifics of the opening and the side of the canvas. And yet it is desirable to use it, albeit a small thickness. Any rolled thermal insulation material is characterized by elasticity, and therefore it will become an excellent substrate for leatherette or its modification - it will be easier to stretch the canvas, give texture to the entire finish, and the appearance of wrinkles on the upholstery over time is excluded.
• Fixation is made with glue or staples, depending on the materials of the sash and the heat insulator.

The specificity of laying the insulation is that between it and the edges (along the perimeter of the canvas) there is a gap of about 10 mm.

Roller installation

It is worth doing it or not, the master decides. But if this is a door at the entrance to the house (and the apartment too), it is advisable to fix them. It is only necessary to take into account in which direction the sash swings open. The most common option is outside.

The outer side of the canvas

• Strips of upholstery material are cut in the amount of 3 pieces. Approximate width - 100 mm. Two - for installation on top and bottom of the web, one - on the side (longer). On the side where the canopies are located, the rollers are attached later.
• Since they are wrapped up during their formation, the edges of the strips are fixed on the base with the expectation that they look outward with the wrong side.
• Laying the prepared "bundles" of the heat insulator into these upholstery fragments.
• It remains only to wrap the edges, form a roller and fix its second edge on the sash.
• The side of the canvas (where the hinges are installed) is insulated differently. Here you need 5 rollers. Three of them are laid along its length so that an opening remains at the locations of the canopies. Everything else is identical, except for the nuance. Where they are installed, small rollers are attached, but not on the door itself, but on the jamb, so as not to interfere with the free movement of the sash.

It remains only to upholster the door with dermantine over the entire area, in a pre-prepared piece or in separate fragments.

The inside of the canvas

The methods for fixing the rollers are the same. Only the places of their fastening change.

• The sash is only at the bottom, at a distance of 10 - 15 mm from the floor level (or its covering - carpet, carpet, etc.).
• Block - the specifics of fastening depends on its structural part. From above, the roller should slightly cover the gap between the jamb and the sash (a 5 mm spade is enough). The same applies to castles. But from the side of the canopies, the insulation roller is installed exactly flush with the plane of the canvas, so as not to become an obstacle in the process of opening / closing it.

What to consider:

• When finishing the door with rolled material, its edges (along the perimeter) are tucked. This will increase the tensile strength of the sheathing at the points of fastening with studs.
• Since the rollers are installed, it is advisable to wrap the dermantin on them a little, that is, make a slight overlap.
• Fixation starts from the top. First, 2 extreme hardware, after which the correct laying of the upholstery is controlled. With small distortions, this is easy to eliminate. Next, the canvas is attached on the side (inner).
• The sheathing ends by pulling the leatherette in the downward and sideways direction. After the removal of air from under it, a rigid fixation is made on the second side and the lower part.

upholstery decoration

The design option, the scheme, the necessary accessories are entirely at the discretion of the master. Numerous examples will easily complement your own imagination.

It remains to be added that in addition to the possibility of restoring the canvas, bringing its appearance in line with the new decoration of the room (facade), do-it-yourself upholstery of the door with dermantine also gives good savings not only on heating, but also on the work itself. For it, experts charge an average of 1,600 ± 200 rubles, depending on the size. And that's without the cost of materials. The artistic design of the canvas, insulation, installation of rollers and the like are paid at a separate rate. So it makes sense to do it yourself.

Even in ancient times, people came up with a device blocking their homes. Initially, the front door was needed to protect from the cold, rain and wild animals. But over time, the function of the door has expanded a bit, and today a good front door not only performs the function of protection, but also combines with the interior of an apartment or house.

Tidying up the front door with your own hands using dermantin is not such a difficult task, especially since it is a very affordable material.

Peculiarities

Any, even a very old door, can be transformed by upholstered with dermantine. This material has its own characteristics and advantages.

The word "dermantin" has a foreign origin. The literal translation means “material imitating the skin”, since the root of this word is “derma”, which means “skin” in Latin. The letter "n" crept into it by accident, so that the pronunciation was harmonious. But this phonetic distortion does not change its properties at all, and most people know this material in just such a sound.

The basis of dermatin is nitrocellulose coated cotton fabric applied to one or both sides of the material. Leatherette has many features due to which it is most often chosen as an upholstery material.

First of all, it has a fairly long service life. Presentable appearance and properties of this upholstery material remain unchanged for 10 years.

Leatherette is a very moisture resistant material. Due to its composition, it does not absorb moisture at all, therefore, heaters and other waterproofing materials used together with leatherette as upholstery do not change their properties.

Leatherette is not subject to decay processes. Its composition prevents the reproduction of various microorganisms. Also, it does not fade in the sun, as it is resistant to ultraviolet rays. This quality allows upholstery of doors that are not only indoors, but also installed in open areas without fear of changing the appearance.

This material is also resistant to temperature extremes. At sub-zero temperatures, neither its properties nor its appearance change. To clean the surface of this material, no specialized products are required, ordinary soap and water are sufficient. But it is worth noting that it is quite stable when exposed to many cleansers. Do not forget that upholstery of doors with dermantine solves the problems of heat and sound insulation of the room.

Pattern options

On the surface of the door, upholstered with leatherette, various drawings are often made. To do this, use special decorative nails and cords made of the same material as the upholstery itself. To make any drawing, you must first put marks on the surface in the right places, and only then nail the carnations. Due to point punching, contours will appear on the surface of the upholstered door, which form the pattern. In addition to decorative nails, cords are often used, they are clamped with nails and stretched between them, resulting in a textured pattern.

Most often, drawings can be made in the form of rhombuses, which can have different sizes and locations. Diamonds of the same size can be concentrated in the center or distributed over the entire surface of the door. Sometimes the pattern combines rhombuses of different sizes.

On a door upholstered with leatherette, you can apply a pattern not only in the form of rhombuses, but also in the form of other geometric shapes: circles, rectangles, squares.

You can decorate the door without using cords. To do this, carnations are stuffed onto the surface of the canvas in the intended order. There can be a small number or a lot of them, they can be located both around the perimeter of the door and in the center of the structure.

The decoration of the iron door is carried out before the upholstery of the door. Leatherette and insulation are connected with special buttons in the right places. To date, you can purchase a ready-made set of special devices for decorating a door in a store. With it, you can create an unusual and beautiful pattern on the door leaf, however, the cost of such a set is somewhat higher than ordinary nails and a cord from the remnants of the material.

How to sew with your own hands?

In order to properly upholster the door with your own hands, you first need to purchase the necessary material and tools. There are two types of doors - these are either metal or wooden structures. Depending on their type, the right amount of material is selected. In order not to make a mistake with the footage, you need to first measure the length and width of the door leaf and, based on the obtained values, acquire material. Wooden structures are upholstered with a piece of leatherette, not exceeding the area of ​​​​the door leaf by more than 15 cm on each side. And for metal doors, a margin of 10 cm is enough.

For the upholstery of a wooden door, in addition to covering the main surface, as a rule, additional elements such as rollers are used. They are nailed along the perimeter of the door leaf and serve not only as an additional element of decor, but also cover the gaps between the leaf and the frame. As a rule, these strips are prepared in advance from leatherette and insulating material. The width of leatherette strips varies between 10-15 cm, and the length depends on the size of the door. Strips of insulating material should be slightly smaller in width (8-10 cm).

When choosing a heater, it is necessary to take into account not only the price, but also the service life of the material. The most common material is foam rubber. It is affordable, and its service life varies between 13-15 years. You can also choose batting, which has a slightly higher cost than foam rubber. Its service life does not exceed 30 years, and in addition, it has a significant weight, so it can significantly weight the design of the door leaf.

The most modern insulation is isolon tape. The service life of this material is in the range of 60-75 years. Very often, isolon tape is used together with foam rubber. Thanks to this combination, the front door protects the room even better from the penetration of noise and cold, and when decorating it, a beautiful relief surface is formed.

In addition to materials, you need to prepare and tools. Scissors are needed to cut the material. A sharp knife will be needed to remove excess insulating materials. Screwdrivers and pliers will be needed in the process of dismantling locks and other work.

Nails will be required to attach the material to the wooden structure. Using a stapler, the door is sheathed with insulating material. Glue is required to bond the metal surface with insulation and leatherette. With the help of decorative nails, a pattern will be applied to the surface.

Walkthrough

If you have the necessary materials and tools, you can proceed to the process itself. Regardless of the type of door, some additional measures need to be taken. As a rule, for convenience, the door leaf is removed from the hinges, but if you are an experienced craftsman, then the reconstruction of the door can be carried out without removing it. Then the lock and peephole are dismantled. Next, the door is cleaned of the old coating (if it was present there). Now you can start the reconstruction of the canvas.

Algorithm for lining the inside:

• First you need to attach prepared strips for rollers to the door leaf. To do this, they are applied face down and fixed on all sides of the canvas with a stapler. If there is an overhead lock in the door, then you need to nail it from its location.
• If the design provides for a mortise option, then you need to start from the upper corner (from the hinge side). The protrusion of the strips should be no more than 4 cm.

• Prepared strips of foam rubber are fixed on the surface of the canvas. Now you need to tuck the edges of the leatherette and strengthen it on the surface. The roller should not protrude beyond the edge of the door by more than 3 cm.
• Then you need to cut out foam rubber or other insulating material. It should lie well between the rollers, indent on each side 1 cm.
• Now, using a stapler, we attach the insulating material to the front door.

• We nail the prepared piece of leatherette. To do this, you need to tuck its edges by about 5-6 cm and attach it to the surface of the door. The folded edges should slightly overlap the roller. A decorative nail must be nailed, stepping back from the edge no more than 7 mm. Similarly, we nail the second nail in the other upper corner, after stretching the canvas.
• Next, we nail the nails in the upper part of the canvas in increments of 10-12 cm, gradually descending along one side. We do the same with the second side and the bottom of the door leaf.
• After fixing the last nail around the perimeter, you can start decorating the surface.
• The final step is the installation of locks and handles.

Stages of finishing the outside:

• First, we tightly cover the door and, depending on the location of the door frame, draw a projection on the door surface. This must be done so that when sheathing the surface, do not go beyond the drawn line.
• Now you can attach the roller to the bottom of the door leaf. It should fit snugly against the threshold when the door is closed.
• Then you should make rollers for the left, right and upper parts, but you need to fix them on the door frame. From the side where the hinges are located, it is installed flush with the jamb, and in the opposite and upper part it needs to be extended by a few mm (depending on the slots).
• Now you can install and fix the main canvases.

Method of upholstery of a metal door:

• First you need to apply glue to the door leaf.
• Then it is necessary to attach a piece of insulating material to the prepared surface and press it. We cut off the excess material with a knife, not forgetting to cut holes for the lock, handle and eyelet.
• Now we apply glue to the foam rubber and glue the leatherette, not forgetting to tuck the edges of the material.

Covering the front door yourself is not such a difficult task, the main thing is to take into account all the nuances associated with the design of the canvas.

What to paint?

Over time, a door sheathed with leatherette may lose its attractive appearance. If the resulting abrasions are local in nature and there are not so many of them, then it does not make sense to change the leatherette, it can be restored using special paints.

Coloring leatherette is a quite inexpensive and affordable way, with which you can put in order the door upholstered with it. The main thing is to choose the right option.

You can paint over damaged areas with acrylic paints. They adhere well to a wide variety of surfaces, including leatherette. You can use special paints for the skin. These paints, due to their composition, stay on the surface for quite a long time, do not fade and do not peel off over time.

In order to more accurately select the color closest to the source material, it is better to purchase a set of paints. Mixing colors will allow you to choose the closest shade.

To properly paint a leatherette door, you must first prepare the surface. To begin with, clean it of dirt and dust, and then treat the place of painting with alcohol. Now we are preparing the desired shade. You can mix shades on a special palette, or you can take a sheet of foil and apply paint on it. To facilitate the work with paints, you need to add a little acetone.

Now you can start coloring. The paint is applied either with a brush or with a foam rubber sponge. After 15-20 minutes after applying the paint, when the first layer is completely dry, you can apply the second one.