Do-it-yourself brick wall oven. How to fold a simple brick oven with your own hands: examples with step-by-step diagrams. Video - Do-it-yourself laying stoves

There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What about those who did not work out either with money or with skill? A simple brick stove will help out, which even a "humanist" can fold.

The article considers two options. The first is suitable for those who want more or less "decent" heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who do not pretend at all to a penchant for handicraft, or to any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. A simple brick oven

How to make a simple but effective oven?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating appliances - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove, you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flame.

The design occupies a little more than half a square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a powerful foundation - it is enough to put a solid board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of the option is that the starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they are not beyond the skills of the average male.

On a note! No qualifications are required for the construction of furnaces. But it is necessary to observe the order - this will make the design as efficient as possible in the context of its potential.

What is required for work?

This is not only simple, but also a budget option. To build a structure you will need:

• brick:
• * fireclay - 37 pcs.;
• * red - 60 pcs.;
• the door blew;
• firebox door;
• lattice;
• valve;
• cast iron hob.

As a binder - clay solution. In total, about 20-25 liters of the mixture will be needed.

It will also be interesting: - types and characteristics.

Training

The first step is to determine the location of the furnace. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no restrictions inherent in traditional brick solutions. Having fixed strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.

The role of an insulator can be played by non-combustible material - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing material is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the size of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base even - the quality of the structure and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

The furnace order is as follows:

1. The first row is laid on the sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly according to the level. The bricks are smeared with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted from the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord that compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
2. After fixing the door with a wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a blower.
3. Fireclay is used (in the diagram it is distinguished by a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is mounted above the blower.
4. Prior to this, the brick was laid flat. On this row, it is placed on the edge. A smoke channel is formed, inside which the basis for the partition is made. One of the bricks (it can be seen in the illustration) is laid “dry” - subsequently it will be removed. After that, the firebox door is mounted, which is wrapped several times with strips of asbestos before installation. But you need to do this so that the door opens well up. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
5. The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
6. Again, the turn of the “ribs” is the second and last row in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
7. The brick is laid flat according to the scheme. The back wall is made, again using the "on edge" format.
8. This closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle of the hob - in case the stove is used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
9. The bricks are slightly shifted to the back wall to support the firebox door. Strips of asbestos soaked in water are laid in front of the brickwork. This ensures the sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. The cast-iron panel cannot be placed directly on the clay mortar, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to cracks.
10. At this stage, the formation of a chimney pipe starts. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
11. Here a valve is mounted, sealed with strips of asbestos. The latter are recommended to be pre-coated with clay mortar. This is the final row, which completes the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining pair of rows is given to the chimney, which will then be joined to a lighter metal channel.

After that, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, the smoke channel and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.

Final works

The simplest stove does not involve serious embellishments. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation of yellow plaque and whitening.

Important! Before work, brick and metal should be protected. If this is not done (for example, with the help of a film), then the stains will not get rid of.

It is necessary to grease the seams between brick and metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between ceramics and cast iron.

Be sure to close the joint between the oven brick and the floor. This will prevent sand from getting into the room. It is desirable to cover the joint with a L-shaped sheet. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves both as a decor and as an additional element that prevents the “foundation” backfill from spilling out.

The oven is ready. The entire process took less than one business day. Already now you can try to make a low-powered . Logs cannot be used - only wood chips or paper. Wood-fired kindling will create too high a temperature, and the structure will crack. For a full setting of the mixture, you need to give a week or two. After that, you can already drown "in an adult way."

It is interesting: ? Overview of 10 options.

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), you can offer an extremely simplified heating design. This oven with your own hands can be laid out in just an hour, even if the hands are generally far from being called golden.

The principle of operation of the structure is simple. Solid fuel burns below, here it settles under the influence of its own mass. Temperature differences create a thrust that carries hot air currents upward. At the same time, firewood burns almost without residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry, you only need two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that it makes no sense to describe the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

If you lay the bricks correctly (and it is very difficult to do otherwise), the result will be similar to that shown in the photo. Bricks are recommended to be connected with clay mortar. But in field conditions, you can do without a binder - just put the components on top of each other according to the order. In this case, the stove is built in five minutes.
Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

According to this scheme, the output is an L-shaped three-section stove. The first compartment is designed to load firewood. The second is a chamber in which the logs are burned. The third compartment is the chimney channel. Figure 9. L-shaped stove

The creation of this design will also require 20-30 bricks. This option can be mastered by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a bricklayer are completely absent. The construction will obey the specialist in a matter of minutes.

Stove heating for the home in many regions of our country is the main one. Often, thick-walled furnaces are installed, which have increased heat transfer in the northern regions; in winter, they heat them once a day. They are able to provide heat to several rooms. They are also used for cooking.

It is unprofitable to install several heating boilers in the house, because fuel consumption and the intensity of pollution of the house will increase. For the southern regions, a small stove would be the best option; if necessary, it is heated a couple of times a day. You can order this structure, but you can also build it yourself.

Choosing a design

Before choosing a boiler design (there are many of them), you must first determine its location in the house. The best placement option is the case when the firebox goes to the corridor, and the surfaces are oriented to the rooms. In this case, the stove mirror should not be covered with furniture, partitions, etc. Its heat transfer with closed walls decreases by about 1/3.

Heat transfer is approximately proportional to the surface area of ​​the entire furnace structure. When choosing a location, the user must find the type of stove suitable for the house and install it so that its largest side opens into the most spacious room.

For example, if you need to heat two large adjacent rooms, then it is better to build a stove with a narrow back side and wide side mirrors brought out towards the corridor.

When building with your own hands, the foundation for the structure must have the same area as the masonry. When arranging it on soft soils, special reinforced concrete belts 100-150 mm thick or reinforced seams 30-50 mm thick are installed under the furnace.

The choice of the foundation is made during the laying: you need to draw up a plan, which determines what the base of the furnace will be. After arranging the foundation for the house, you can begin to produce the base for placing the heating stove.

In this case, you must follow these simple rules. Under the stove, it is built separately from the main foundation of the house. Broken rubble, bricks are laid in the pit in layers 15-20 cm thick. Each layer is rammed and poured with a cement mortar. The last layer is laid out in the same way. After that, two layers of bricks are laid, as when building walls on cement mortar.

Waterproofing is equipped with glassine, roofing felt or roofing material, as well as several layers of bricks installed on clay mortar. The top of this stove plinth should exceed the floor level by 1-2 cm. The boiler is placed on such a base.

Choosing a furnace design

Almost every owner can build any of the furnaces. But at the same time, it is necessary to follow the main recommendations for the arrangement. We invite you to familiarize yourself with them by reading the information below.

Choosing a brick

When building with your own hands, one of the priorities is the choice of bricks. The brick should be red and well burnt. "Well-fired" means that it has been fired at a certain temperature. This can be determined by the following features.

The burnt brick is covered with a dark coating and a vitreous film. The unburned brick is pale pink, and when tapped and dropped, a hollow sound comes out. When falling on a hard surface, it shatters into small pieces. Called a normally fired brick, it also breaks when it falls, but into large pieces. It makes a metallic sound when tapped. This brick should be easily pricked during processing.

For furnace fireboxes, red brick is "a little weak." The first smoke channel and the firebox are the components of the heating furnace, where the temperature is highest, therefore they require the laying of refractory refractory bricks. In this case, the brick is chosen depending on the fuel, which will mainly heat the dwelling. If peat burns in it, you need Borovichi, firewood - white Gzhel, coal - fireclay bricks.

We prepare the solution

The next step is the process of preparing a mortar for a brick heating stove. The high quality of the mortar guarantees the strength of the masonry. It is made from clay and sifted sand. Clay is placed in a trough and filled with water. After 3 days, it is necessary to strain the solution.

When the solution is ready, it is necessary to prepare the tool in advance. For construction work, we need:

• Master OK;
• a hammer;
• pick;
• level;
• corner;
• bast brush for grouting surfaces.

Work can be simplified by installing vertical racks around the perimeter of the stove. Having arranged such a simple structure, you will not need to check the masonry horizontally and vertically.

You need to know that the heating stove is laid only in warm weather, the best option would be if the temperature is not below 15 ° C.

When laying, regardless of the chosen construction of the serial masonry, try to keep the thickness of the seam about 3-4 mm, it can be less, but not more. For the foundation and pipes, seams are suitable and thicker - up to 1 cm. It is important that there are no cavities between the seams.

It is not necessary to coat the firebox and fuel channels with clay. Corners and turns in the channels must be rounded, all channels in the furnace must be rounded and smooth. This is necessary in order to achieve minimal friction on the walls of the channels, to avoid impacts during movement against various obstacles as a result of sharp expansions and narrowing of the channel openings. Therefore, it is impossible to lay a chipped or hewn part of a brick inside the channels.

Lay the grate with a gap of about 0.7–1 cm from the masonry wall. They should have a slope towards the stove door so that the remains of unburned fuel do not accumulate at the rear wall of the structure. Usually drying takes about 14 days, if all the views, latches and vents are completely closed. In order to speed up drying, the stove can be heated with small volumes of absolutely dry firewood.

The size of the cross section of the smoke channel depends on the amount of gases that will flow through it. If its heat transfer for heating does not exceed 3000 Kcal per hour, its cross section should be 14 * 14 cm or 0.5 * 0.5 bricks. If its level is higher than 3000 Kcal, then it should have dimensions of 14 * 27 cm or 0.5 * 1 brick.

Chimney heads are laid on cement mortar. The surface of the part of the outer pipe located in the attic of the house must be plastered, and then whitewashed. This is done to ensure fire safety. The height of the pipe is measured from the grate. In one-story buildings, it should not be less than 5 meters. In the places of its passage, fluff is arranged - a gradual overflow of bricks is made.

In the event that the wall thickness of the structure is not less than 1.5 bricks, then it can be equipped with a mounted chimney. In this case, the flue riser must be installed directly on the stove. Unlike a root chimney, a wall-mounted chimney does not need a foundation. The root pipe is settled in a house that has several stoves. At the same time, the connection of structures that are located at different levels is unacceptable, since the lower one will take all the thrust from the upper one if they work simultaneously.

Regardless of the chosen pipe design, an otter is arranged above the roof of the house, which should hang over the roof. It does not allow water to enter the attic floors. The solution under it is smeared with a thick layer for a firm hold on the pipe. Often it is made in the form of a square, the size of which should exceed the diameter of the pipe by 20-30 cm. Often, the otter is built by pouring a reinforced concrete structure.

After the otter, the neck of the pipe is arranged, and behind it is an expanding head. All these elements of the boiler - the otter, the head, the neck - are plastered. To do this, you must first moisten the pipe with water. After that, a liquid layer of the solution is applied, and a thick solution is also laid in several layers. All layers are carefully crushed and the cracks that have appeared are grouted, after which they are whitewashed with lime.

• 1 part clay;
• 1 part cement;
• 1 part lime dough;
• 2 parts sand or 1 part clay;
• 2 parts sand.

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove can create, even made by your own hands. Often it is installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, trying to get a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick ovens and share the secrets of the oven craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick oven is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish interior element.

Probably, there is no such person who would not like a living hearth with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But the good old brick oven will be able to please not only with this, but also with the ability to create the most favorable atmosphere for health. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick emits water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when it cools. The stove, as it were, “breathes”, due to which the optimum humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes already at a temperature of 18–19 ° C, while when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 ° C. In addition, being made of clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that during the operation of the heater, you can not worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of arranging the furnace and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary furnace of this type has:

• foundation, which serves as the base of the heater and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a furnace that simultaneously acts as a firebox and a combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for the lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to adjust the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which facilitates the cleaning of the furnace;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and emits exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Construction of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood-burning heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional place of rest. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, barbecue or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to a visual and image component.

The advantages of brick ovens include:

• rapid heating of the surface;
• the possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heater is eliminated;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• ample opportunities in terms of interior decoration.

The units under consideration also have disadvantages. The most significant of these is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which appears during improper operation. Another - large dimensions and weight. That, perhaps, is all. As you can see, equipment of this type has solid advantages and the almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, however, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick ovens can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combined ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that you can fold yourself. In order not to consider the whole variety of stationary units, let's focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch stoves. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in the mode of slow burning or smoldering, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the "Dutch" rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly because of the low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic "Dutch" is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel layout, which allows you to increase the efficiency up to 50%. Just like the "Dutch", the "Swedes" take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of this type of heat generators.

   

   The Swedish stove will please its owner with high efficiency and functionality.

3. have a unique layout, due to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the features of operation. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the oven. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   The Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but it will require a lot of space for installation.

4. Kuznetsov's bell-type furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that contributes to the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A feature of the "blacksmiths" is an extremely clean "exhaust" and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on caring for the heater. As for the minuses, they include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the latter disadvantage is compensated by the fact that much less brick is required for the construction of a “cap” than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and oven

Step-by-step instructions for laying the Kuznetsov stove with orders can be found in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heater that can meet all the requirements for it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first is not difficult, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you more about how to choose a stove in accordance with the type of building.

1. House intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then there is no better option than "Swede" or "cap". In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily supplemented with other elements - a hob, a water circuit, an oven, drying niches or a bench. If the functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a “Dutch woman” that heats several adjacent rooms is a good option.
2. Country house "weekend" or cottage. Since these buildings involve irregular living, it will be enough to install a small heater equipped with a hob. Fireplace stoves with an open hearth are ideal, as they can be used to heat the room in the shortest possible time. Such an advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the air temperature in the room drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. A stove in a country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heater serves to create a special atmosphere. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or a unit with a firebox, a fireplace and a stove bench.
4. Bath heater. For this case, the simplest stove-heater is suitable, in which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bath is attached to the house, then instead of the tank, you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Furnaces for open areas. Most often, such heaters are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

The barbecue oven will decorate the site and fill the resting place with functionality

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heater to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of the main parameters

Before choosing a working project of a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat transfer of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power taken from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take a value of 0.5 kW / sq. m, and if necessary, intensive heating, which occurs during severe cooling - up to 0.76 kW / sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of the furnace, only those of its surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in the "Dutch" sections of the walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the flue, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, already these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick ovens

Sauna stove
Fireplace stove Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel bookmark. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2-3 times greater than the obtained value, which will allow the furnace to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the furnace part, it must be taken into account that the maximum bookmark should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the furnace and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the furnace. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various quadratures.

Table of calculations of the main elements of a brick oven

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove will be fired with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood-burning stoves do not require much draft, so a rectangle is the best shape for the smoke channel. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​​​its flue, while all values ​​\u200b\u200bare adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since precise design requires a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. Nevertheless, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use the average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 - 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 - 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

The recommended sizes are the minimum. And yet, there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will fall into the furnace through a too wide chimney. Backflow, or “whistling” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only to degrade performance, but also to more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material needed, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be built up with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often, such events are carried out with the changed aerodynamics of the area. For example, after growing trees or erecting taller buildings in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• determination of the optimal place for mounting the heater;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• production of oven bricks (if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.

Necessary materials and tools

Stovemaker's tools

For laying a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Panicle for mopping laid rows.
3. Corner, plumb and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scribbler.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Stitching.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Bulgarian (angle grinder) with a circle on the stone.

Despite the fact that brick ovens differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains almost unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, refractory and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Building mixture for laying furnaces. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. A set of furnace castings - blower, furnace and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for fixing cast iron.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and corners for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant plates for protective thermal insulation.

Chamotte brick SHB No. 22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight, which requires a major foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for the construction of the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Rubble.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for the construction of formwork.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for these works.

Features of choosing a place for installing a heater

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available area in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is located in the center of the house, orienting the firebox and hob to the kitchen, and the other faces to the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location is able to solve the problem of heating all the premises of a country house

When installing a heater, one should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum allowable distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances, which are determined by the current SNiP:

• from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof, there must be at least 130 mm of free space. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the furnace leave a gap of at least 100 mm;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum clearance is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m must be left from the ceiling to the ceiling of the furnace. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Foundation construction

It is best if the base of the brick oven is formed simultaneously with the common house foundation. At the same time, both structures are performed separately, otherwise the subsidence of the walls of the building will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, and even damage to the heater. If the stove will be built in a finished house, then the first thing they pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the elements of the roof covering, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they start marking and building the foundation.

Given the weight of the stove, the foundation must be solid.

If wooden floors are equipped in the house, then they are cut out at the place where the furnace is installed, departing from the outer contour of 10–15 cm. After that, they dig a foundation pit, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle lane, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After that, its bottom is covered with a 15-cm layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured, which is also carefully rammed. After that, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the crate boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement milk through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with a plastic film. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which they use both metal rods hammered into the bottom of the pit and brick fragments.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

Mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the foundation surface is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the base of the furnace should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours have passed, necessary for the preliminary setting of the solution, the structure is covered with a film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying the brick, the foundation must be waterproofed with a roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Solution preparation

Now, when you can find ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves in the distribution network, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All that is required for this is to mix the components with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. Nevertheless, you can make a masonry mortar on your own - this will additionally save. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the last component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After that, balls with a diameter of 5-6 cm are rolled out of the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is the one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower the spatula into the prepared mixture. Adhesion of the solution less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is required to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates the fat content of the mixture, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

Clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If it is required to increase its fat content, then the grinding method is used, which consists in settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly fold a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heater, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything for the start of construction is only half the battle. In order to properly fold the oven, it is necessary to find the layout of the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared some of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Web or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Schemes for ordering furnaces in the photo

Orders of the Swedish oven Orders of the "Dutch" Orders of the Russian oven
Orders of the heating and cooking furnace
Orders of the stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell-type furnace

Today we propose to fold a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite the apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove-makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Stove orders with a hob and niches for drying

On the presented ordering scheme, you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish stove. We recommend first laying out the structure dry, without the use of mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Further work is done in this order:

1. To the floor level, the bricks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar solid. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry in terms of level and plumb. From the careful execution of the work depends on how smooth and stable the oven will be.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form a blowing chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in masonry joints. To prevent displacement and overturning of the door, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are brought out to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not attached in any other way than by very precise laying.

5. In the fifth row, a grate is installed. Correctly laying the cast iron will help the recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is laid out exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the furnace, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden lath.

   

   Furnace door installation

7. Starting from the seventh row, they begin to equip the gas ducts of the furnace. The vertical walls of the firebox are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber with a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected in the bricks with which the furnace door will overlap. Thanks to this, the design will look even and aesthetically pleasing. Here, the cast-iron part is finally fixed, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   For an exact fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the outer walls with basalt cardboard or other refractory material.

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before overlapping the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as a support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, they equip a horizontal channel and a door for cleaning soot and soot, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The masonry of the 22nd row covers the door.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal gas duct is covered. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the oven niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical gas ducts. To do this, first mount their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row, fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is isolated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this, both mineral heaters and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

Here's a beauty you can fold with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Earlier, we considered how oven doors are mounted and fixed. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Features of mounting the oven

If the design of the furnace provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes the largest possible surface area. Most often, these conditions correspond to the section of the transition from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Preliminarily, metal corners are laid on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the places of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed with basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

The hot water boiler or liquid heat exchanger is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place can be located at the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue or under the hood of non-revolving units. If it is planned to use the hob and the water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into the side tanks made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5-15 mm is left between the water-heating boiler and the furnace walls. Of course, it is necessary to foresee how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For channel and chamber furnaces, this can be done through the opening of the firebox, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operation and cleaning of the furnace

It is impossible to immediately test the furnace at maximum modes; it is necessary to wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heater in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one to two weeks. If it becomes necessary to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5-7 days 2-3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensate on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after that, the stove is not heated "to the fullest." Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with firewood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is freed from ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For this purpose, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After that, the soot is raked out of the gas ducts with a metal scoop and a poker.

Choosing the right fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove-makers recommend that every tenth firebox be carried out with aspen logs, arguing that this helps to remove soot from the channels and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, smoke powder (yes, you can find such “useful” tips), naphthalene, etc. A good effect from this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and your own health can cause significant damage.

It often causes difficulties to kindle the stove after a long cooling, for example, in a cottage or in a country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming hard-to-remove gas plugs. A proven method will help resume cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, lay it closer to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the heater's performance.

You will also need material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick ovens:.

Video: Compact brick oven of the original design

A brick oven will be able to create a particularly warm atmosphere in the room, it will become a highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is within the power of not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners. Of course, one must be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heater will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe operation for many years of operation.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Figure 1 - Stove with fireplace and stove

The stove is a very popular option for heating private houses. Of course, now there are many different heating options, but still, the stove remains a very popular option for heating a house, its individual rooms. In addition, you can cook food on the stove, use it as a dryer, steam room in the bath, make a lounger and sleep on it. In addition, you can come up with a number of other applications and bring them to life.

What are the advantages of brick ovens?

It has a number of positive aspects and in many situations outperforms its competitors. Here are the main advantages of this option:

1. This heating option is environmentally friendly: when laying the stove, only building materials of natural origin are used; when heated, they do not emit any harmful substances and carcinogens.
2. After heating, the stove keeps heat for a long time.
3. It can harmoniously fit into the interior of the room.
4. It is a multifunctional product - in addition to heating rooms, you can cook food on it, use it as a dryer, and the healing properties of therapeutic sleep on the stove are generally known.

What should I pay attention to when choosing the parameters of the furnace and its location?

The stove is a multifunctional element, with its help you can maintain comfort in the room, cook food, heat, dry, etc. Therefore, the choice of the dimensions of the furnace and its placement in the house must be approached as seriously and responsibly as possible. The larger the stove, the more heat it will give, and the longer it will cool down after the heating is completed. If the house has several separate rooms located opposite each other, then it is advisable to position the stove in such a way that its sides, which give off the maximum amount of heat, look towards these rooms. It is no secret that the sides of the oven emit 3-4 times more heat than the front and back sides. This must be taken into account when designing the location of the furnace in the room.

What kind of brick should be used in the construction of the furnace?

Different parts of the furnace are laid out with different bricks, depending on the temperatures that will affect it:
1. The lower rows of the furnace, which will not be exposed to high temperatures, as well as parts of the chimney, in which the smoke temperature will not exceed 80 degrees, can be laid out from building red brick.

2. Red kiln ceramic brick. Has the best features. Furnace brick withstands high temperatures up to 800 degrees without destruction. This brick lays out the furnace part.
3. Chamotte brick. This brick lays out the inside of the combustion chamber. It withstands temperatures up to 1600 degrees. It has a high heat capacity and thermal conductivity.

It is impossible to lay out the furnace only with fireclay bricks. It heats up very quickly and cools down just as quickly. In order for the stove to give off heat for a long time, the outer layer of the furnace must be laid out with stove bricks.

What mortar is needed to bond bricks?

Different parts of the furnace are laid out with different types of bricks. The solution in different parts will also be different:

1. Cement-sand. Parts of the furnace, which are laid out with ordinary red brick, are placed on an ordinary mortar.
2. Mortar based on M400 cement. A mortar based on cement of this brand and high-quality mountain sand is used in the construction of those parts of the furnace where the temperature will not exceed 250 degrees.
3. clay solution. Also mixed with mountain sand. However, expensive mountain sand can be replaced with sand from ground oven or fireclay bricks.
   Clay is a very important component of the solution. It is best to use a red oven. When frozen, it should not crumble and crumble.
   The solution should be of medium density - like thick sour cream in consistency. The layer thickness should be minimal - no more than 5 mm. This is necessary so that the precious heat from the stove does not leave too quickly.

How to fold the oven with your own hands?

To do this work, it is best, of course, to resort to the services of a qualified professional - a stove-maker, but this is not a panacea. The work can be done on your own. You just need to stock up on knowledge and boldly get to work.
Laying can be divided into stages. We offer step by step instructions.

Stage 1 - Choosing a place for the furnace

The first step is to choose a place where it will stand. This should be a place closer to the center of the room, so that when the stove is heated, it evenly gives off its heat even to the most remote corners of the room. The location of the stove should be such that it does not interfere with the passage, does not block the light. There should not be any furniture or combustible utensils near the stove, which can ignite when the stove is very hot and cause a fire. Also, the place where it is installed should be such that it is convenient to work near it: lay firewood, take out and throw away ashes, work on the stove, etc. Also, next to the stove, there should be a place for storing a small pile of firewood, so that at any time you can add a couple of poleshin to the fire.

Step 2 - Sizing the Furnace

Everything is simple here: the larger the oven, the more heat it will give off, the longer it will cool down and give off heat to the room for a longer amount of time. However, such a stove needs to be heated up longer and more firewood is needed for heating.
A small one is faster to drown, but there will be less heat from it and it will be faster.

Stage 3 - Choosing a brick and its quantity

Next, you need to choose a brick from which the furnace will be laid out. It is best to take red. The number of bricks is determined by multiplying the number of bricks in a row by the number of rows. You also need to take into account possible errors and additional branches during masonry.

Stage 4 - Site Preparation

If the stove is massive and heavy, then it is advisable to make a separate foundation for it. If not, then you need to prepare a flat, clean surface, cover it with roofing material. If necessary, formwork can be made from boards. The first row sets the tone for all future work, so everything must be done in good faith.

Stage 5 - Laying the first row - the underfloor part

The first row is the basis of the future design. Therefore, it must be approached very responsibly. We arm ourselves with a level, if necessary, we make formwork. It is best to first lay out the first row without mortar and see what happens, and then fasten the bricks with mortar.

Stage 6 - Installing the blower

After laying two rows, you need to install a blower door and make a cavity into which ash from the combustion chamber will pour. To fix the door, the hardened wire is fixed at one end into special holes in the door, the other end is fixed between the bricks on the mortar.

Stage 7 - Laying out the flame section

The fire chamber is laid out from heat-resistant furnace and fireclay bricks. You also need to install grates through which the ashes will fall down.

Stage 8 - Installing the combustion chamber door

An important stage of construction work. It is installed by analogy with the blower door. The furnace door must be securely fastened as much as possible, because. it will open and close for years to come.

Stage 9 - Laying the rows of the furnace part

Stage 10 - Installing the plate

The stove must be laid evenly, all seams and joints must be very well smeared with mortar and be sealed so that when the stove burns, smoke does not go through the cracks into the room, and flames do not fall on the hob.

Stage 11 - Laying the chimney

Different parts of the chimney that will be affected by different temperatures are again laid out with different types of bricks. In the process of laying the chimney, you must not forget about the view and the chimney valve. The view is installed by analogy with the blower door. A narrow slot in the chimney must be provided for the valve.

When the stove is on, the damper is extended and allows smoke to escape through the pipe to the street; when it is not in operation or the heating is completed, the damper is in the retracted position.

Stage 12 - Exit the chimney through the roof

One of the most difficult and responsible stages. The pipe through which smoke will be removed outside the house can be of the following types:

1. Asbestos cement is one of the cheapest and most affordable options.
2. Metal.
3. Stainless steel.
4. Brick. The laying of the furnace continues after the chimney, which smoothly passes into the pipe and exits above the roof.
5. Ceramic pipe is an expensive option.
6. Vermiculite pipe is a new modern solution.

Necessary tools, materials and fixtures for work

To perform the work you will need the following tool:

1. Master OK.
2. Pick.
3. Building level.
4. Owl shovel.
5. Plumb.
6. Putty knife.
7. Roulette.
8. Pliers.
9. Bulgarian.
10. Sieve.

Figure 11 - Tool required for construction work
You will also need the following materials and fixtures:

1. Brick (furnace, building, fireclay).
2. Formwork boards.
3. Ruberoid.
4. Chimney damper.
5. Chimney flue.
6. Form for mixing the solution.
7. Blower door.
8. Furnace door.
9. Cement.
10. Mountain sand.
11. Red clay.
12. Water.

Conclusion

Laying the stove in your private home is a very big and responsible job. First you need to develop a project, choose a place, make sure the foundation is reliable, or make a new foundation for the furnace. It is necessary to correctly choose the dimensions of the furnace based on the size of the room and the purpose of the furnace, correctly position it in the house relative to the rooms. To lay the furnace, you need to prepare different types of bricks, knead a quality mortar. After completing all the work, you need to heat the furnace and see how it works, whether the stove, valve, doors work properly, whether the structure is hermetically folded, etc. In case of finding minor flaws, they will need to be eliminated as soon as the heating is completed and the furnace has cooled down.

No private house is complete without a traditional brick heating and cooking stove. And although today many houses are equipped with gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to abandon the brick oven, as it gives a special warmth - the warmth of the hearth, filling the home with comfort and a sense of calm. In addition, in regions rich in forests, you can significantly save on natural gas consumption by acquiring firewood.

The desire to make redevelopment in the house, including the transfer of the heating and cooking stove, can often rest on the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to fold the oven with your own hands in this material.

There are many types of furnaces, but not all are used in private construction.

Types of stoves for private houses:

1. heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
2. cooking(the oven is exclusively for cooking);
3. Universal(heating and cooking).

The latter variety is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.

The device of the furnace and its properties

After reviewing the sketches and designs of brick ovens, and choosing a specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its external design as to its internal structure. The device of the heating and cooking furnace determines its performance, and ultimately its service life.

The internal design of the heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the appliance itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in the corner or against the wall.

The main structural elements of the heating and cooking furnace:

• Shantsy (heat-air channels);
• Ash pan (or blower);
• grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
• Under (slope to the grate);
• combustion chamber;
• Burnout (chimney);
• The vault of the firebox (separates the combustion zone from the afterburning zone in the combustion chamber);
• Air vent (hole through which heat enters the heated room);
• outer wall;
• Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber with the chimney);
• overlap;
• Chimney;
• Indent (the space between the chimney and the stove);
• Smoke dampers;
• Heat dissipating walls.

The heat output of the furnace is determined by the amount of heat energy released by the furnace per hour, and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to store heat from burned fuel) is measured in hours. Different stoves have different levels of heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of the walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.

The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.

Russian stove and its device

A Russian brick oven is installed on the foundation, since its device is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a sub-stove used to store fuel, which dries in it and easily flares up when the stove is melted. The stove is closed with a vault-trough, on which the filling is poured on a solution of clay. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.

The Russian stove has a special design, which differs significantly from the traditional heating and cooking stove in terms of heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short time, the Russian stove accumulates heat and is able to give it away for 24 hours.

In order for the Russian stove not to consume excessive amounts of fuel, not to smoke and not to cool down in a matter of hours, it is important to follow the exact masonry technology and dimensions that the scheme includes when installing it. The bricks that form the interior of the oven are hewn and polished so that the walls inside the hail are even and smooth.

Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or a bakery and a firebox (crucible). The floor of the furnace has an inclined design, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when installing a Russian stove.

The crucible is the main secret that Russian cuisine hides. Some dishes after cooking should languish in the cooking chamber for a long time. It is not possible to achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for preparing dishes of Russian cuisine using a familiar hob or electric oven.

The main secret that distinguishes the Russian stove from the traditional one is the smoke channel of the simplest design, which in its efficiency surpasses the devices of smoke channels of other stoves.

Do-it-yourself Russian oven device (video)

Design choice

The choice of the type of furnace depends on the conditions of its operation:

1. Heating and cooking stove. If you plan to use the stove intensively in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with a massive device and regular heating. In the device of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first warmed up, then heat transfer begins.
2. The furnace is heating. For a house in the mountains or a summer house where permanent residence is not planned, a fireplace will be enough. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up the room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up in the cold season.

A brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. The lightest construction is assembled into a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on the edge). In order to give it strength - a frame made of metal corners is used. A massive oven requires a foundation, which should not be connected to the support of the building. In the case of a separate chimney, it also needs its own foundation.

Determining size and power

The level of heat transfer of the heating and cooking stove must exactly fulfill the possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and ceilings.

The size and design of the future furnace determines its power.

Furnace device. Where to begin?

The laying of any furnace cannot be started without a project or drawing, which should include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the chimney outlet without disturbing the supporting elements of the structure. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The scheme or project of the future furnace is compiled on the basis of this calculation.

It is quite difficult to create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove on your own, so you can use the services of a design organization or information on the Internet.

Tools and materials

When the furnace project is approved, it is possible to prepare for its laying.

To fold the oven with your own hands, you must have on hand:

• Stove-maker's hammer (trowel);
• Master OK;
• Building level and plumb lines;
• measuring tape;
• Cement-sand mortar;
• Hand power tools (hammer drill, grinder, etc.);
• Red brick;
• Refractory brick (fired);
• Facing brick;
• Mortar for masonry of clay and sand;
• Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
• Furnace fittings and appliances.

Do-it-yourself oven laying. All stages

Like any construction process, laying a stove with your own hands is done in stages.

The scheme of this process includes the following points:

• Foundation arrangement. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a battlefield. The foundation is not used for all furnace structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive furnace, you cannot do without its device.

In no case should the support of the future furnace come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and in case of skew, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is a fire hazard.

The depth of the foundation depends on the weight of the furnace structure and its design, and the support area must exceed the overall dimensions of the furnace by at least 5 cm around the entire perimeter. The foundation is leveled with two rows of fired bricks on cement mortar to the floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the construction of the entire furnace will depend on it. This is followed by a layer of waterproofing, as a material for which ordinary roofing felt or roofing material can be used, the material is laid in two layers.

• Furnace lining. The first row is laid out on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork from each row should be started without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next, a mortar is laid in place of the corner brick and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air comes out. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and correctly laid on the mortar with a trowel tapped on it for leveling. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.