Do-it-yourself water-heated floors from the heating system. How to make a warm floor and connect it to the existing heating. Preparing the floor

Many experts argue that underfloor heating is a self-sufficient heating system that will effectively heat rooms of any size and cubic capacity, even in the North of Russia. At the same time, the level of comfort increases: the legs are always warm, and at the level of 1.5-1.8 meters there is a slight decrease in temperature. Such a thermal regime, according to doctors, is the most optimal for good health. In addition, when the floor is heated, convection processes affect the entire volume of air in the room, which reduces the cost of maintaining a comfortable microclimate.

Disadvantages of water floors

The idea of ​​floor heating with warm water is far from new, but due to the lack of durable pipes, it was not implemented on a large scale for a long time. The water floor has a big minus - the complexity, almost impossibility, of repair. Therefore, until recently, such systems were not very common: it is unreasonable to lay metal pipes in the screed. They quickly collapse, and breaking the screed for repair is difficult and expensive. With the appearance on the market, warm water floors began to be used more often. Somewhere along with radiators, and somewhere instead of them. And all because MP pipes of good quality can serve for decades, bend well, and are sold in bays up to 200 meters long.

But the impossibility of repair is not all the disadvantages. There is another significant minus - the entire cake of a warm floor from hot water takes about 10 cm. If the ceilings in the room are already low, this is a lot. In this case, it's better to do . It is only 1-2 cm in height.

Another disadvantage is the high inertia of this heating method. Of course, the screed array, in which the pipes with the coolant are hidden, gently dissipates heat, giving comfort. But it takes a lot of heat to heat it up. And if you consider that for comfortable sensations, the temperature of the water in the warm floors should not exceed 40 ° C, then it is clear that while the screed heats up, a lot of time will pass. That is, such heating is optimal for permanent residence and is not suitable for places where you appear periodically: a water floor cannot quickly heat a room.

Underfloor heating from central heating: legal nuances

If you have an apartment in a multi-storey building, in some cases, underfloor heating can be powered from a central heating riser. The installation of this type of heating requires a special permit from the housing maintenance organization. If the apartment is in a new building, you will most likely be given permission. In new buildings, a separate riser is usually provided for connecting this type of heating.

Problems can arise in older houses. Especially if your wiring is single-pipe (this is when each room has a separate riser and a battery is connected from it). The fact is that with such a connection system, if you take too much heat from the riser, very cold water will come to the neighbors from below in the radiators. With a one-pipe system, only owners of apartments on the ground floor can obtain permits. The rest are unlikely.

If there is a desire to heat the floor, but obtaining permission is unrealistic, you can power the warm floor from the heating boiler. The device of such a system will be more expensive at the installation stage, but the monthly costs will definitely be lower. Or another option is to lay an electric underfloor heating. It can become an even more attractive option, since when used, the failure of one segment does not affect the operation of the entire floor. Since there are a lot of segments, you won't even notice that something is broken there.

What does the "pie" of water heating look like

If installing underfloor heating in your home is possible, most likely, as one of the conditions for obtaining a permit, a requirement will be put forward to install a heat meter. Agree without hesitation - if you do everything right (meaning insulation), it will be more profitable for you, since you will pay less.

How to do

The first step to making a warm floor in an apartment (from central heating or from a boiler - it doesn’t matter) is drawing a project. Transfer the floor plan to paper, indicate the size of the rooms and the location of the risers. Near the risers, from which it will be powered, you need to find a place to place the collector assembly. This is a device to which the input / output of the centralized heating system is connected on one side, and pipes located in the floor on the other. also contains a temperature control device for the coolant, and sometimes valves / valves to regulate the temperature in each circuit.

The peculiarity of a warm floor from heating is that hot water from the supply must be mixed with cold water, which is taken from the return pipeline. Therefore, such a unit is sometimes called a mixing unit. Let not always, but in the supply riser there is a temperature of 95 ° C and even higher. Imagine how it would feel if water at this temperature warmed your floor. Africa is resting. That's why you need a coolant temperature control unit, which, if necessary, adds cool water.

The speed of water movement in the underfloor heating system should be in the range of 0.2-1.0 m / s. In order to provide such a speed, it is mandatory in the circuit (without it, the system is inefficient).

Then you need to decide on the type of pipe you will use. Until recently, there were only two options: either cross-linked polyethylene. Today there is a third, which at first glance has no drawbacks: corrugated stainless steel. Flexible, reliable, inexpensive (much cheaper than MP), long service life, excellent performance, and even no crafts. Not material, but a fairy tale. Of the shortcomings - only greater resistance to water flow due to the ribbed surface. And then, this is not a proven fact, but an assumption. In general, please note that there is also such material. More

After you have decided on the type of pipes, you decide how you will lay them: “snake” or “snail”. "Snake" is easier to install, "snail" does not give the effect of a zebra - the alternation of warm and cold zones. Then you need to choose the diameter and find out the length of the pipes. For a water floor in an apartment, it makes little sense to carry out a heat engineering calculation - everyone uses a 16mm pipe. It is unlikely that as a result of the calculation you will get something else. You can estimate the length according to the norm: 4-5 meters of pipe per m 2 of area. Now you can start making.

Scheme of laying a warm floor "snake"

The scheme for connecting a water-heated floor to a boiler is not very complicated. A safety group is placed on the supply pipeline (if it is not in the boiler), then the pipe from the boiler is led to the collector assembly. Underfloor heating circuits are connected to the collector node. On the return pipeline there is an expansion tank and a circulation pump (again, if it is not in the boiler). That's the whole boiler piping for connecting a warm water floor. The simplest scheme is shown in the figure, there is also a specification table.

Scheme of connecting a water heated floor to a boiler (click to enlarge)

Results

The source of heat carrier for a water heated floor in an apartment can be a central heating riser or a boiler. Both options have advantages and disadvantages. Firstly, a warm floor from central heating can not always be powered, secondly, you still depend on the operation of the boiler room, and thirdly, pay decent money for it. When using a boiler, you get an autonomously working underfloor heating, but spend more money on its installation (a boiler is expensive), but you save on monthly utility bills.

What is a water heated floor? This is a capital liquid heating system in which the air in the room is heated through the use of a flooring structure with a system of pipes through which the coolant circulates. The underfloor heating system is connected to a local (gas boiler) or central heating system.

The water floor heating system can be used as the main heating of the house (an independent source of heating) or as an additional one. Depending on the design and method of heating, different types of underfloor heating are distinguished: water and (cable, rod,).

A water heated floor is a durable and economical heating system, but its installation is associated with significant difficulties and costs. Therefore, the installation of a warm floor system is entrusted to professionals. For those who decide to make a water heated floor with their own hands, we will tell you what stages this process consists of, and pay attention to the main subtleties of design and installation.

Water heated floor - advantages and disadvantages

Pros:

• efficient redistribution of heat, ensuring uniform heating of the entire room;

• ensuring natural air circulation;

• compatibility of a warm floor with any type of floor covering (provided that it conducts heat well: tiles, laminate, natural stone);

• the ability to install an autonomous system (individual heating) or connect to the central heating main;

• reduction of heating costs by 20-40% (compared to radiator);

• independence from power supply (and power outages);

• the ability to adjust the temperature in individual rooms and at any time of the day;

• minimum costs for self-assembly;

• the appearance of the room is improved due to the absence of radiators and visible pipes of the heating system;

Minuses:

• inertia of the system. The warm-up time of the room is 4-6 hours (depending on the volume, area);

• the complexity of the design in the case of using a warm floor as the only source of space heating;

• high installation cost;

• it is difficult to regulate the temperature regime in case of connection to the central heat supply line;

• reducing the height of the room by raising the floor by 100-120 mm;

• the use of floor coverings such as carpet, carpet or carpet is excluded;

• the possibility of leakage (in an apartment - flooding of neighbors from below, in a private house - a basement);

• low maintainability of the pipe system;

Water heated floor - do-it-yourself installation

Step-by-step instructions for installing water floor heating include four consecutive steps:

1. Develop on your own, download a ready-made standard or order an individual project of a warm water floor. At this stage, it is recommended to involve a specialist in order to eliminate errors.
2. Select equipment and building materials.
3. Proper installation of underfloor heating system.
4. Carry out a check and the first start of a water-heated floor.
5. Finishing, laying flooring (tiles, laminate, linoleum).

Stage 1 - designing a warm floor

Before proceeding with the drafting of the project, it is necessary to make sure that there are no unremovable obstacles to the installation of the system in the room. These may be:

• room height. The thickness of the warm water floor (mounted system) is 100-120 mm. This raises the floor to the appropriate height;

• location of the door. Due to the installation of the system, the floor level rises. It is necessary to maintain the height of the doorway at 2200 mm (standard door and mounting clearances) or evaluate the possibility of increasing the doorway or estimate how much it will cost to make a door to order;

• window orientation. Windows located to the north or northwest, or oriented to the windy side, or having a large size, may cause the system capacity to be increased to compensate for heat loss through the external circuit and provide the desired room temperature;

  Note. If the calculated heat loss is more than 100 W / sq.m. installation of a water heating system is impractical.

• bearing capacity of beams or floor slabs. Considering the weight of the concrete screed, the ability of the floor slabs or beams to support the weight of the underfloor heating system should be assessed. Old floors are not yet a reason to abandon the system as a whole, but a reason to explore the water floor.

In view of the requirements listed above, water-heated floors in a private house are more common than in apartments in high-rise buildings.

If there are no obstacles for the device, you can start designing.

Calculation of a water heated floor

The required amount of material is calculated depending on the parameters of the heated room and the technical characteristics of the component equipment and materials. The calculation of a warm water floor is made on the basis of the following data:

• floor area and room height;
• material of walls and ceilings;
• degree and type of thermal insulation;
• type of flooring;
• pipe material and diameter;
• power of the heating element (boiler or central);
• desired temperature regime (see table).

Limiting (maximum) surface temperature of a warm floor for rooms for various purposes

After that, a sketch (diagram, drawing) is made, reflecting the installation location of the main equipment, the method and step of placing the pipes.

How to make a water heated floor

Be sure to pay attention (device features):

• floor heating elements must not be installed in places where furniture is located, because this can cause them to overheat and dry out;

• it is not recommended to exceed the length of the circuit over 90 m (the limit value depends on the pipe section);

The maximum length of the water floor heating contour (loop) depending on the diameter of the pipes used

The deviation is explained by the fact that the hydraulic resistance (deceleration of the movement of the coolant) and the thermal load are directly dependent on the diameter of the pipe.

Masters consider it optimal, the length of the circuit is 50-60 m (with a pipe cross section of 20 mm). If necessary, it is advisable to install two circuits of the same length. This is due to the fact that in the process of moving through the pipes, the hot year gives off part of the thermal energy, and the floor temperature decreases. The use of short circuits will ensure uniform heating of the floor over the entire area.

Note. The length of the circuit is calculated from the point of exit from the collector, not only at the point of entry into the heated room.

• the step of laying pipes for underfloor heating is 100-500 mm;

Note. When using a water heated floor as an additional (alternative) source of heating, a pipe laying step of 300-500 mm is recommended. In the case of installation of a non-alternative (main) system, the step is reduced and amounts to 100-300 mm. If the laying step is exceeded, the “thermal zebra” effect appears, and the difference in the temperature of the floor surface is felt by the foot.

• installation of thermostats will avoid overheating, and reduce the cost of operating the system.

Water heated floor in the apartment from central heating

Important. Installing an underfloor heating system in an apartment is fraught with a number of difficulties. In particular, it is necessary to submit the project to the housing office or the society of co-owners, as well as the district heating network. After the approval of the project, obtain a conclusion on the possibility of installing the system. Usually, installation is allowed only in new houses, where there is a separate riser for pumping hot water (used in case of a breakthrough).

Installation of a warm floor in the bathroom is allowed by connecting through the outlet to the coil from the heated towel rail. A permit is not required for heating a small area.

In addition to the component installation scheme, at the design stage, the type (type) of the underfloor heating system is selected.

1. concrete system. It involves pouring pipes with concrete (arrangement of the screed);
2. decking system. It involves the use of wood or polystyrene flooring. In this case, there are no "wet" processes and the speed of work increases.

Stage 2 - accessories for underfloor heating

Underfloor heating is water, it is a complex system of pipes with a coolant. Therefore, we list what is needed for installing a warm floor (system components).

Boiler for warm water floor

The best and most common option in a private house (apartment) is to connect to a gas boiler. If the apartment does not have individual heating, you can connect to the central heating main, but the autonomy of the project is lost.

It is also possible to use electric water floors. Their peculiarity is that the heating cable is laid inside the pipe, which guarantees uniform heating of the coolant (water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol) along the entire length of the circuit. The undoubted advantage lies in the possibility of installation in apartment buildings (because they are not connected to the heating main, which means there is no risk of damage to the attachment point). But there is also a significant drawback - the high cost of electricity, which is necessary to ensure the functioning (heating) of the system.

The design power of the boiler should be 15-20% higher than the total power of all floors in the room.

Circulation pump for underfloor heating

It is necessary to ensure the movement of the coolant in the system. The pump built into the boiler will not cope with the load if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house exceeds 100 sq.m.

Pipes for a warm water floor

• copper pipes according to experts, they are considered an ideal option - durable, have a high heat transfer, but their cost will significantly increase the installation budget;

• plastic pipes leading in terms of price / quality ratio. Their composition eliminates the appearance of corrosion and accumulations, which leaves the diameter of the pipe flow area unchanged. In addition, metal-plastic pipes are lightweight, easy to bend and have a high temperature limit.

• polypropylene pipes are attracted by a low price, but there is a high probability of buying a low-quality product.

• PEX pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are reliable, but require rigid fastening, tk. straighten when heated. Users recommend reducing the mounting pitch of holders when using PEX pipes by 2-3 times.

The optimal section is 16-20 mm. Pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. 5-6 m.p. (with a step of 200 mm).

Note. According to reviews, users are advised to use only well-known brands (Uponor, Rehau).

Insulation for warm water floor

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

• foil polyethylene (with a minimum design thickness of a warm floor);

• expanded polystyrene. Users recommend using ready-made heat-insulating mats with protrusions for laying pipes with a pitch of 50x50 mm;

• mineral wool. Users speak poorly of wool in the case of a concrete system due to the ability of mineral wool to absorb some of the moisture from the solution.

Advice. The heat-insulating layer (insulation thickness for underfloor heating) above the basement, in the basement, on the first floor in a private house, should be thicker. In addition, the higher the expected temperature of the coolant, the thicker the thermal insulation layer must be made.

Heat consumption meter

Installing a heat meter in an apartment is relevant when obtaining permission to install a water-heated floor in an apartment building.

manifold cabinet

It is installed for the installation of adjusting elements and for joining the pipes of the circuits with the heat supply main.

Reinforcing mesh for underfloor heating

Regarding the laying of reinforced stacks, user opinions differ. In general, the reinforcement mesh will further strengthen the concrete screed after the pipe system has been laid.

Components for the tie device

• concrete (cement, sand, water);
• damper tape 100-150 mm wide;
• fasteners for fixing pipes.

Stage 3 - do-it-yourself installation of a warm water floor

1. Installation of manifold cabinet

Installation of the system begins with the installation of a collector cabinet, the mandatory elements of which are (collector assembly): a collector, a pump, an air vent valve and a drain outlet. Collector dimensions depend on its configuration. It is recommended to install the manifold at an equal distance from all circuits. If it is impossible to fulfill this recommendation, near the longest of the contours.

Important. When installing the collector, free space is provided for bending the pipes. In this case, installation of pipes from above is not allowed, only from below. This will ensure the normal movement of the coolant. The installation of a shut-off valve between the piping system and the collector will simplify the maintenance of the system if necessary (prevention, descent, repair).

2. Preparation of the base for underfloor heating

The surface is cleared of debris, differences in floor heights (slopes, elevations) are eliminated.

Thermal insulation material is laid on the prepared surface, which reduces heat loss through the floor. Next, a waterproofing film is covered. Laying damper tape levels the thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

Floors under a water-heated floor must be leveled to ensure a screed of the same thickness (a guarantee of uniform heat distribution over the surface)

3. Laying pipes for underfloor heating

Installation of water floor heating pipes can be performed by several methods (laying schemes):

Snail

Pipes are laid around the perimeter of the room, tapering towards the center. It is obligatory to lay pipes through a row in order to ensure the possibility of a reverse flow of the coolant and a more uniform heat transfer.

The method is used when, due to the complex configuration of the room, it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe system, as well as in rooms with an area of ​​​​more than 40 sq.m.

Snake (loops)

In this case, the pipe from the heater runs along the outer wall, then undulates back. The scheme is suitable for small spaces.

Meander (double snake or combined scheme)

The serpentine loops are arranged in parallel and allow organizing the movement of warm and cooled coolant through the pipes. This method is good because it allows you to compensate for the cooling of the pipes.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Advice. Masters are advised to start laying from the outer or colder walls of the room.

To perform the layout correctly, it is recommended for a beginner to first mark the floor surface. At the time of installation of a warm floor in subsequent rooms, laying will be done "by eye". Only solid pipes or reliable connections are used for laying.

Pipe laying begins by connecting one end of it to the supply manifold.

You can organize insulation near the outer walls by changing the order of the pipe layout, as shown in the diagram.

After laying the pipe on the designated contour, it is fixed with a clamp. Alternatively, you can use dowels and tie the pipe to them using copper wire, or lay a reinforcing mesh on the floor and tie the pipe to it, allowing the thermal expansion of materials.

Simplifies the work of a ribbed polystyrene substrate under a warm water floor, the use of which at the same time allows you to provide thermal insulation and lay pipes in even rows.

4. Connecting the floor heating collector

After laying the circuit, the free end of the pipe is connected to the return manifold.

5. Crimping of a warm water floor

Pressure testing of pipes (hydraulic test), this is the name of the procedure for checking the quality of laying, because at this stage, it is possible to make adjustments to the heating system of a water-heated floor.

Pressure testing involves the inlet of water into the system under high pressure. The pressure recommended for testing exceeds the calculated working pressure by 1.5-2 times (at least 0.6 MPa). In the first half hour of pressing, a pressure decrease of no more than 10% is permissible, in the next 2 - 15% of the initial value. The water temperature remains unchanged. Check time - a day or more. If no violations are detected, and the floor warms up evenly, you can continue to work.

6. Screed for a warm water floor

For screed can be used:

• any ready-made mixture, a mandatory characteristic of which is the ability to conduct heat well;

• classical concrete (with cement grade not less than M 300) with the addition of a plasticizer (3-5%).

The height of the screed varies in the range of 3-7 mm. The solution is filled with a full (filled with coolant) system with a pressure specified during pressure testing. The total curing time for concrete is 28 days. For a mixture, the setting time is determined by the manufacturer.

Note. Expansion joints are provided on the surface of a large area (more than 40 sq.m.).

Stage 4 - the first launch of a warm water floor

After complete hardening (drying) of the floor screed, the system is ready to start. It will reach the specified parameters within 2-3 days.

Stage 5 - finishing the underfloor heating

A fully finished warm floor is covered with a finishing material. The most popular flooring today is tile and laminate.

Water heated floor under the laminate is widespread. However, the installation of the laminate in this case is carried out with some nuances:

• the quality of the laminate must be confirmed by a certificate. After all, when it is heated, harmful substances will be released into the room. Typically, underfloor heating laminate is labeled "Warm wasser";

• the heat insulator under the laminate does not fit;

• ventilation of the covered laminate floor is obligatory. To do this, a gap of 10-15 mm thick is left around the perimeter, which is then closed with a plinth;

• before laying the laminate is placed in a room to set the floor temperature. At the same time, packages with lamellas must be placed on the floor, and not stacked in one high pile.

As you can see, the use of laminate as a floor covering does not create additional difficulties, however, the masters advise using a water-heated floor under the tiles. This is due to the fact that the laminate is characterized by low thermal conductivity (the thicker the lamella, the lower this indicator), and it also contains connectors, the fumes of which may not have the best effect on the health of the residents of the house.

How to make a water heated floor with your own hands - video

Water heated floors will last a long time if you follow the recommendations for their operation, which contain user reviews. The main requirements are as follows:

• a gradual rise in temperature is required. Do not run the system at "maximum" after a period of inactivity (until the floor has completely cooled). Users recommend a stepwise increase - by 4-5 ° C per day;

• the temperature of the incoming coolant should not exceed 45 °C;

• It is not recommended to turn on/off the system frequently. This will not lead to additional savings;

• it is necessary to ensure optimal humidity in the room. A balanced microclimate will favorably affect human health.

Conclusion

In addition to installing a warm water floor system inside the house, it is possible to carry out installation work on the street, for example, for installing a snowmelt and anti-icing system (for heating the footpath, entrance area, porch, stairs, car parking, etc.).

There is no need to talk about the comfort of using underfloor heating, this type of heating is very popular in private homes, as it is efficient and has a high efficiency. Despite the fact that this type of work is not much more difficult than others related to arranging the maximum convenience and comfort of their own home, few people know how to make a warm floor from heating with their own hands.

Let's consider the theoretical and practical issues related to the independent calculation and arrangement of water floor heating in small residential or office-type premises.

Preparatory work and calculation of materials

Such responsible work as do-it-yourself installation of a warm floor should begin with the preparation of materials and planning. Strictly speaking, only specialists who have information about the level of heat leakage in a given room can make an accurate calculation. But for individual needs, approximate calculations are often used that satisfy the requirements.

First you need to draw a plan for the placement of pipes. The clearest and most obvious thing will be a diagram drawn on paper in a cage, on which a warm floor can be calculated based on the quadrature of the room. Each cell will correspond to a step - the distance between the pipes.

For the temperate zone:

• With good insulation of the house and windows, the distance between adjacent turns of the pipe can be made 15-20 cm;
• If the walls are not insulated, 10-15 cm.
• In spacious rooms, where some of the walls are cold and some are warm, they take a variable step: near the cold walls, the distance between adjacent turns of pipes is small, and as they approach warm walls, they increase it.

What kind of flooring is suitable for underfloor heating

A big mistake is made by those who plan to lay parquet or thick wood flooring on a warm floor. Wood does not conduct heat well and will prevent the room from heating up. The efficiency of such heating may even be lower than that of a radiator, and heating costs may be too high.

The ideal covering for a heat-insulated floor is a stone, ceramic or porcelain tile. When heated, it will keep warm perfectly, and this is the best option for the kitchen or bathroom. In rooms where the floor is warm - children love to play very much, and walking barefoot there is more pleasant than on wooden parquet.

A slightly worse flooring option, but more suitable for a guest room or bedroom, is linoleum and laminate. These materials transmit heat well and will not reduce the efficiency of water heating. In this case, the laminate should be chosen with a minimum thickness, and linoleum - without an insulating substrate.

When heated, many synthetic materials can release harmful fumes. Therefore, floor coverings with chemical components must necessarily have a manufacturer's mark on the possibility of their use in residential premises on a warm floor.

Underfloor heating base

If we are talking about a house with concrete floors, then the most affordable common option is a concrete screed with water heating. The same method is used for the first (basement) floors of private cottages, if the base of the floor is on a sand cushion, which is located directly on the ground.

In houses with wooden floors, this option is not applicable. Wooden floor beams simply cannot withstand the enormous weight of the concrete screed, no matter how thin it may be. In this case, a lightweight version of the underfloor heating is used, which will be discussed in a separate section.

Do-it-yourself installation of a warm floor begins with the preparation of the base. The basis for creating a warm floor should be flat, without protrusions and depressions. The maximum allowable difference is 5 mm. If the depth of surface defects reaches 1-2 cm, then it will be necessary to fill and level a thin layer of granite screenings (fine crushed stone) with a grain size of up to 5 mm. On top of the leveling layer, you will have to lay a film and, when laying thermal insulation, walk on wooden boards. Otherwise, the leveling layer itself will become a source of irregularities.

Schemes for laying a water-heated floor

The most common water floor laying patterns are snail and spiral. The snail evenly heats the entire floor area. But with a spiral scheme, you can provide a greater level of heating in the coldest zone of the room. To do this, the first pipe branches through which hot water is supplied are laid exactly there. According to the finished drawing, the exact length of the pipe is determined.

For underfloor heating, only a single piece of pipe is used! If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is very large, several heating circuits are planned. The length of the pipe of each circuit must not exceed 100 m. Otherwise, too much pressure will be required for the normal flow rate of the coolant. In terms of area, this corresponds to 15 sq.m.

A do-it-yourself water floor is best made from a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 16 mm. It easily bends with a fairly small radius, and it is much more convenient to work with it than with a XLPE pipe. It is undesirable to use a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. A large diameter will require an increase in the thickness of the concrete, and this has a bad effect on the efficiency of the heating system.

Usually pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. area is:

• 10 m at a step of 10 cm;
• 6.75 m at a step of 15 cm.

The choice of thermal insulation and fasteners for a water-heated floor

In order for the heat not to go down, a layer of dense foam is laid on the base. The density of the insulation is chosen at least 25, and preferably 35 kg / m3. Lighter expanded polystyrene will simply collapse under the weight of the concrete layer.

Insulation and heat reflector

The optimal thickness of the insulation is 5 cm. When laying on the ground or if increased protection from the cold is required, when an unheated room is located below, the thickness of the thermal insulation can be increased to 10 cm. To reduce heat losses, it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of metallized film over the insulation. It could be:

• Penofol (metallized polyethylene foam);
• Reflective foam screen glued behind radiators;
• Plain aluminum foil.

The metallized layer is quickly destroyed from the aggressive action of concrete, so the screen itself also needs protection. Such protection is polyethylene film, which is used for greenhouses and greenhouses. The film thickness should be 75-100 microns.

In addition, it provides the necessary moisture for the maturing concrete screed throughout the entire period of its solidification. Pieces of the film must be overlapped, and the junction must be hermetically glued with adhesive tape.

Fixing connections for water heating pipes

Fasteners for the pipe are installed on the thermal insulation. Its purpose is to fix adjacent pipe branches and place it on the floor in strict accordance with the preliminary plan. The fastener holds the pipe until the concrete screed acquires the desired degree of hardness. The use of fasteners facilitates the installation of the floor and ensures the correct placement of the pipe in the thickness of the concrete pad.

Fasteners can be special metal strips, welded metal mesh, plastic brackets that pin the pipe to the foam base.

1. Metal strips are used with an increased thickness of the concrete pad. They slightly raise the pipe relative to the heat insulator, so that it is closer to the top surface of the concrete pad. The pipe simply snaps into the curly notches of the slats.
2. The metal mesh not only secures the pipe, but also reinforces the concrete cushion layer. The pipe is tied to the grid with pieces of wire or plastic clamps. Fastener consumption is 2 pcs. per running metre. In places of rounding, additional fasteners can be used.
3. Plastic brackets are installed manually. They pin the pipe to the styrofoam as it is laid. Do-it-yourself semi-industrial warm floors are made using a special stapler. But its acquisition is justified only with intensive professional use.

In recent years, manufacturers of underfloor heating systems have begun to offer another very convenient solution. We are talking about special sheets of dense polystyrene foam with a profiled surface. Usually the surface of such sheets is the intersection of grooves or rows of protruding elements, between which heating pipes easily fit.

The surface of the sheets is smooth, extruded, all pores are closed and no additional waterproofing film is required for it. Having a special thermal cutter, grooves in polystyrene foam can be cut independently. But to carry out this work you need at least a minimum experience.

The metal-plastic pipe is delivered in bays. When laying the coil, it rolls out along the trajectory of the pipe. It is impossible to pull the pipe from the lying bay, as this will cause it to twist and may lead to delamination of the inner layers.

Recipe selection, preparation and pouring of concrete

The pipes may only be poured with concrete after they have been completely laid, connected to the manifolds and filled with water at a pressure of 4 bar. Before pouring, it is required to withstand the pipe under this pressure for a couple of days. If a leak is found, it is fixed immediately. If the heating system itself has not yet been installed, instead of water, air is pumped into the pipes using a compressor and the pressure is fixed with ball valves.

Immediately after pumping, the pressure may decrease slightly due to the straightening of the pipes. During the pouring and hardening of the concrete, the pressure is monitored by a connected pressure gauge.

To compensate for thermal expansion, we attach a damper tape along all walls. The temperature expansion of the concrete cushion is 0.5 mm per linear meter, with an increase in temperature by 40 degrees. If the heating is only 20 degrees, then the expansion will accordingly be half as much. We multiply the expansion by the length of the longest section of the concrete floor and compare the resulting value with the thickness of the damper tape.

For ordinary apartments, as a rule, it is enough to lay the tape only along the walls and at the door sill. In addition, the damper tape also plays the role of thermal insulation of the walls from the warm floor. This method eliminates cold bridges that cause unnecessary heat leakage.

Additionally, in some cases, expansion joints are made:

• with the length of any of the sides of the room more than 8 meters;
• the width and length of the room differ more than twice;
• the floor area exceeds 30 sq.m.;
• the shape of the room has several bends.

For extended warm floors, an expansion joint with a damper tape is arranged every 10 m. To prevent the movement of concrete pillows in these places from breaking the pipe, a rigid plastic corrugation (preferably) or a larger diameter pipe is put on it. The entry of the protective pipe into the concrete pads is at least 0.5 m on each side.

If, according to the layout, there is an accumulation of warm pipes in one place (for example, near the collector), then a heat insulator sleeve must be put on part of the pipes. This will help to avoid local overheating and retain heat for the desired areas of the floor.

How to make a water heated floor: concreting

If concrete for pouring is not brought in, but prepared on site, then the following components will be required:

• cement grade 300 or 400 - 1 part by weight;
• washed river sand - 1.9 w.h.;
• crushed stone 5-20 mm in size - 3.7 w.h.

This is the composition of heavy concrete. Its weight reaches 2.5 tons per 1 cubic meter. finished material.

Many people prefer to refuse sand in concrete for underfloor heating. This is due to its poor thermal conductivity. Therefore, in practice, cement-gravel mixtures are also used. Its composition:

• crushed granite 5-20 mm - 2 buckets;
• cement - 1 bucket;
• fine granite screenings up to 5 mm - 4 buckets;
• water - 7 l (you can add another 1 l if the solution is very thick).

Granite is an excellent conductor of heat, and such concrete has a much lower thermal resistance. It is also recommended to introduce a reinforcing fiber, which is a small plastic fiber, into the composition.

As part of any self-leveling floor must be a plasticizer. The specific amount depends on the specific brand and purpose of this drug. The plasticizer should not be any, namely for a warm floor!

If the pipe was attached to strips or brackets, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it. The height of the concrete screed is selected from 5 to 10 cm. In this case, it is necessary to provide at least 3 cm of concrete above the pipe. A smaller layer is fraught with cracking. A too thick concrete pad increases heat transfer losses.

With the right choice of concrete and normal temperature, it begins to set after 4 hours. To maintain normal humidity, it should be covered with a waterproof film, and when the surface dries, it should be watered. Already after 12 hours, the hardened concrete can withstand the weight of a person. But its full maturation occurs only after 28 days. All this time, you need to take care of the humidity and maintain high pressure in the laid pipes. Only after the expiration of the specified period can the first thermal test of this floor be carried out.

As during the first test, and subsequently, it is impossible to quickly heat the water heated floor to a high temperature!

Flooring

Tiles and other floor coverings can be glued onto the finished concrete base. In this case, glue intended for warm floors is used. If the tile falls on the expansion joint, then one part of it must be glued, and the other part must be placed on silicone. The silicone adhesive dampens the thermal movements of the base, and the tile will not crack from overvoltage.

Lightweight underfloor heating for wooden floors

As mentioned earlier, a light warm floor without a concrete pad is equipped for wooden floors. In this case, the sequence of work may differ slightly depending on the condition of the old floor and the floor structure.

So that the heat does not go down, a heater is placed under the pipes. It can be placed between the floor lags, and then it is better to use mineral wool, or it can be laid on an old solid subfloor - here you will need polystyrene foam with a density of 25-35 kg / m3. To prevent condensation from forming, a vapor barrier membrane is laid under the mineral wool. The first draft floor is stuffed on top of the logs.

Just like for a concrete floor, it is advisable to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of foil or penofol on the insulation. All joints and seams must be sealed with adhesive tape.

Logs are laid directly on the polystyrene foam, to which the subfloor boards are nailed. Between the boards there should be gaps of about 2 cm for laying the pipe. Similar gaps must be provided at the ends of the boards of the subfloor. Otherwise, you will have to choose transverse grooves for the pipe, and this can lead to breakage of the boards.

In order for the heat to be evenly distributed over the floor, the pipe is laid not just in grooves, but in special metal gutters designed for this purpose. The metal transfers heat over its entire surface and evenly heats the fine finish. Recommendations for its choice have already been given above - it can be a laminate with a permit to work with heating or a rigid polymer coating. Thick parquet and parquet boards for underfloor heating are the least suitable.

Compared to concrete underfloor heating, lightweight construction is done much faster and costs significantly less. Another advantage is the possibility of repairing water pipes in case of an accident. Problems with tubes in the concrete floor are eliminated only by its complete replacement.

The main disadvantage of a wooden warm floor is a much lower thermal power.

It is possible to feed underfloor heating from the heating of apartment buildings only with the permission of the heat energy supplier. All recommendations remain valid, although, on our own, we advise installing a heat-resistant water filter at the pipe inlet.

Outcome

Properly arranged heat in your own home is another step towards comfortable and convenient living conditions for the whole family. But, even if you are not able to perform these works and are forced to invite masters, the knowledge gained will allow you to take an active part in this process.

Time is running, everything is changing, big changes are taking place in the construction of private houses. Let's take a look at how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house, which is in demand.

Pros and cons of using water floors

After the house is built under the roof, the owner begins to think: how to properly make a warm floor in his house. In this matter, numerous videos come to his aid on how to make a warm floor from heating in a private house and what are the pros and cons of a warm floor during installation.

PROS:

• Compared to radiators, a water-heated floor distributes heat better along the height of the room. The area of ​​​​the room warms up evenly, the temperature of the warm floor creates additional comfort; it is pleasant to walk on it barefoot;
• Economic benefits - connecting a warm floor saves money on heating. The floor temperature is regulated by turning off the heating circuits in the warm floors of non-residential premises;
• The operation of a warm floor keeps the rooms hygienic. No drafts or dust. When there are small children in the family, the advantages of a warm floor are obvious: laid pipes heat the floor with heat, allowing you not to be afraid of catching a cold for children crawling on the floor;
• Having a water heated floor, you don’t have to think where to hide the radiators? The air is always fresh - there is no overdrying by heaters;
• The heated floor transmits heat by radiation and immediately spreads the heat;
• By installing a warm floor under the tiles, you will have a comfortable temperature in it.

MINUSES:

• A water heated floor is a minus in cost, laying a warm floor will cost a little more than radiators;
• It is necessary to choose the right coating, the pipes are heated up to 55 degrees. It is impossible to make a coating of wood - it will crack. Laminate coating is also not suitable, it evaporates formaldehyde when heated. Remain carpet, natural linoleum, tiles;
• The complexity of installation during laying - in order to lay a water-heated floor, the surface is prepared and well leveled;
• There is also the possibility of leakage, to eliminate it, you will have to disassemble the floor;
• This coating serves well in rooms with reliable thermal insulation, where it cannot be laid (for example, stairs) you will have to install additional heaters with a power greater than that of the floor.

Schemes for laying a water-heated floor

There is more than one scheme for laying a warm floor:

• Snail;
• snake;
• Combined, including both schemes, when half is laid with a snake and the other with a snail.

Schemes can be viewed on a video on the Internet - on how to install a warm floor in a house and what will be the power consumption of energy.

Materials used

To make the best underfloor heating, you need to calculate how much it will cost and purchase the necessary materials:

• Pipes;
• Temperature controllers;
• plasticizer;
• Collector group;
• damper tape;
• Multifalga, used as a heater for a warm floor;
• Styrofoam;

Pipes are metal-plastic, copper and polyethylene, their strength guarantees against leaks, so you can make a warm floor with your own hands.

It is necessary to choose the right control system, with its help, adjustment is made and the power of energy consumed is reduced. You also need to take into account the warm floor how much energy will consume.

Surface preparation

First, the old coating is removed, after which the surface is cleaned. It is necessary that the thickness of the underfloor heating screed be the same. When the surface is cleaned, a waterproofing film is laid with a margin of 20 cm. The film is needed so that the warm floor does not pick up moisture from the soil on which the house is located. Then you need to make the thermal insulation of the floor. For this purpose, lay polystyrene foam with a thickness of 2 - 5 cm.

It is good to purchase a heat insulator with recesses for pipes. Laid into the base, it will greatly simplify the installation of the heating circuit system.

At the edges of the room you need to attach a damper tape. It saves from destruction during deformation. The last layer is the reinforcing mesh.

Step by step reminder:

1. Remove old coating;
2. clean the surface;
3. Put a waterproofing film;
4. Put polystyrene foam;
5. Attach damper tape;
6. Lay the reinforcing mesh.

Installation of heating circuits

Before it starts, a scheme for connecting a warm floor is drawn up and pipes are laid with a warm floor. Pipes are sold in bays, which allows you to choose any length during installation. Having installed the collector combs, we assemble the underfloor heating unit.

Step by step reminder:

1. Lay out the pipes according to a pre-selected scheme;
2. Bring the end of the pipe to the distributor, secure with metal sleeves;
3. Go to collector connection.

Installation of the collector and connection of heating circuits

Before connecting to the collector, the pipes are cut perpendicular to the floor at their end, a connecting fitting must be put on.

Collectors are installed in special cabinets, if desired, it can be mounted or mounted to the wall.

Having finished its installation, pipes are connected to it. To make the floor temperature more accurate, install a thermostat for underfloor heating and a mixer with control valves.
In order to choose what power the pump for the warm floor will be, it is necessary to install where the collectors will be located and what will be the scheme for laying the pipe in the warm floor.

Step by step reminder:

1. Cut pipes in a perpendicular line;
2. Put the connecting fittings on the end of the pipe;
3. Install the collector in a specially designated place for it;
4. Connect the pipe.

Pouring concrete screed

To understand whether it is possible to start pouring a warm floor according to the instructions, the mounted heating floor system is checked at a pressure of 6 atmospheres using a hydraulic press. Then the pressure is dropped to 2 atmospheres and a self-leveling heated floor is poured. For its pouring, concrete for a warm floor of grades 200 or 150 is used.

Proportions of concrete from M-400 cement, sand and cement

Proportions of concrete from cement grade M-500, sand and crushed stone

Pipes are poured under pressure to avoid damage to concrete. At the same time, the thickness of the warm floor is 2 cm higher than the reinforcement. When the concrete gains strength, heating can begin.

Similarly, a warm floor is made under the tile.
After finishing the installation of the floor, it may happen that the system does not work completely.

Here are a few reasons why the warm floor does not heat:

• Most likely, when the adjustment was carried out, air got into the system. So is it possible to fix the situation? It is necessary to call a specialist;
• The temperature can be low if the boiler power is insufficient - it is necessary to check the temperature sensors;
• Or, when the underfloor heating was installed, little insulation was used.

To avoid such situations, calculations for a warm water floor are made very carefully. Instructions on how to connect a warm floor should be found in the video, where everything is explained in great detail.

An alternative to calculating a warm water floor can be a film floor heating. Let's analyze this warm floor - the stages of its installation.
Today, film underfloor heating is a demanded system; there is no need to lay pipes for underfloor heating. Work occurs due to infrared radiation.

To mount a film underfloor heating, you need:

• Film;
• Special clips for connection;
• Thermostat for underfloor heating.

Conclusion: making a warm floor with your own hands is not a big deal, the main thing is to do everything very carefully, without errors, correctly make calculations with a warm water field. You can invite a team of specialists from a construction company. And you will become the owner of a surprisingly practical design that is so necessary in the house.

Owners of country houses do not always know how to make a warm floor from heating. It is very simple to independently install the system and connect it, if you know a few nuances.

Principles of technology for connecting a warm floor to a heating system

Installation of a warm floor from an existing heating system is carried out on the basis of the following principles:

• to existing radiators, you need to connect the collector assembly;
• the temperature of the heat carrier must be reduced to at least +55 ° C;
• the structure to be installed must be distinguished by a standard pressure that does not exceed 8-9 atm.

Also, the list of preparatory work includes the calculation of all operating parameters of a warm water floor, which depend on the characteristics of the existing heating system. It can be single pipe or double pipe.

The latter type is characterized by the presence of two pipelines. One is designed to supply hot liquid, and the other to drain the cooled coolant back to the boiler for heating.

A single-pipe heating system is characterized by the presence of one pipeline through which water circulates. Therefore, a warm floor is connected to it according to the principle of another radiator. It is installed after the heater, which allows you to reduce the temperature of the coolant without additional devices.

How to connect underfloor heating to the heating system

You also need to take into account - it is impossible to achieve the effective functioning of a warm floor in the presence of the gravitational principle of fluid movement. When the coolant passes from a pipeline of large diameter to a smaller one, the coolant will not be able to overcome the resulting hydraulic resistance.

Materials for the installation of a warm water floor

Underfloor heating from heating is installed using several important elements, the quality of which is subject to high requirements.

Pipes

To ensure the effective functioning of a water heated floor, it is recommended to use pipes with a diameter of 2 cm. The preferred material is polyethylene or metal. When using the latter option, a multilayer construction is used for pipelines, and the surface of the elements is covered with a special anti-corrosion layer.

Polyethylene is the preferred material. It is not subject to electrochemical corrosion, which cannot be said about metal. Also polyethylene pipes are easier to install. They are sold in bays of large volume, which allows you to install the entire water circuit with one element. The main material for fixing pipelines is plastic ties or special profiles that are installed using dowels.

The installation of the circuit is carried out according to the selected scheme. If the pipe material is polyethylene, then the radius of the coil should not be less than five of its diameters. If you bend the contour too much, creases form. In this place, the material is most susceptible to destruction during long-term operation.

Installation of water heated floors VALTEC

Collector

The collector is designed to regulate the operation of a warm water floor. When choosing a specific model, you need to pay attention to the availability of the required number of outputs to connect all elements of the system.

The cheapest manifold is equipped with only shut-off valves. This model does not provide for the possibility of adjusting the operating parameters, which makes the warm floor not always effective.

More expensive options are equipped with additional valves. They allow you to adjust the operation of the warm floor when necessary.

There are also models that are equipped with servo drives and pre-mixers. The first additional element provides full automation, and the second one allows you to adjust the temperature of the coolant supplied to the warm floor.

The collector is mounted in a special box (material - galvanized steel), which corresponds to its size. Its installation is carried out at a certain height, so that it is possible to bring all the necessary pipelines to it.

Do-it-yourself floor heating collector

Heat insulating substrate

Pipelines are laid on a prepared base, which is formed using special heat-insulating substrates. Use these options:

• foil coated. Such heat-insulating material as penofol is used. This substrate can be used when there is no need for high-quality insulation of the floor;

  

• polystyrene boards. To increase durability, a polymer material is used as a coating. They can be equipped with markings or special bosses. In this case, the laying of water heating pipelines will be carried out very easily and quickly;

  

• mineral wool insulation. It is used in cases where an unheated room or soil is placed under the structure. This thermal insulation material must be installed taking into account the normative requirements for thickness and resistance to heat transfer.

  

Connection scheme for a water heated floor, depending on the configuration of the existing heating

Connecting a warm floor to heating devices occurs in several ways, depending on the configuration of the existing system:

• one-pipe scheme. The connection of the supply circuit with a circulating coolant occurs after the circulation pump, and the return - after. Adjustment of the system operation is carried out using an installed manifold or ball valve;

  

• two-pipe scheme. When the laying of a water-heated floor is made, it is connected to the supply and return pipelines of the existing heating. Operation is controlled by two ball valves;

  

• connection diagram without circulation pump. Installation of this system is possible, but there is no guarantee of its normal functioning and efficiency. Given the complexity of installation, it is much easier to use the first or second option. For the functioning of the warm floor, the supply is connected at the beginning of the room, and the return is at the end. It is also important to ensure the required level of slope when installing pipelines.

  

Underfloor heating connection diagrams depending on the design features

A system of pipelines with a circulating coolant is connected to existing heaters using the following schemes:

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating from existing heating

The device of a water heated floor according to this scheme has several advantages:

The disadvantage of this design scheme is the impossibility of its use in multi-storey buildings with central heating. There may also be some difficulties during the installation of all elements. But if you take into account all the recommendations, this is not so difficult to do.

Video: Installation of a single-pipe heating system with underfloor heating