Insulating a frame house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions, video. What materials are best to insulate a frame house? What insulation is best for a frame wooden house?

Frame houses are an excellent option for quick and inexpensive individual construction. However, despite these advantages, they have one significant drawback: taking into account the climatic conditions in most of the country, they require specific “revision” in the form of large-scale insulation work. How and with what help can this task be accomplished? There may be several options. It makes sense to dwell on the most popular methods of insulating a frame house.

Options for insulating a frame house

Insulation of a frame house with mineral wool

Mineral (stone) wool is chosen quite often as a thermal insulation material.

This is explained by its excellent sound absorption and heat retention properties. It is an environmentally friendly and non-flammable material, and its five-centimeter layer can easily replace brickwork almost 60 cm wide (if we compare them in terms of thermal insulation characteristics).
The main task when installing basalt wool is to competently and reliably protect the rockwool from moisture.
The formation of condensation on the material will negate all its wonderful characteristics.

Therefore, if such an expensive material as mineral wool was purchased for insulation, then saving on special membranes and vapor barrier films does not make sense.

Insulation of a frame house photo

Sequence of work when installing stone wool

Basalt wool slabs are placed in cells formed by the frame. It is assembled in such a way that its vertical guides have a pitch of strictly 60 cm. This is the width of the material produced in a roll. The cut slab should fit between the posts with a little force and hold tightly, without sagging. As for the thickness of the insulation of a frame house, it varies depending on the region of the country. In areas with a milder climate, a layer of 10 cm is allowed. Where winters are severe, a layer of 15-20 cm will be required.
To prevent the formation of “cold bridges” in the latter option, it is recommended to perform installation as follows. The first two layers of mineral wool (each 5 cm thick) are laid in the cells of the sheathing. And the final one is done in such a way as to overlap the frame guides from above.
Frame houses have a mandatory layer of vapor barrier on the outside, so there is no need to duplicate it before laying stone wool. But after all the layers of insulation have taken their places, you need to create a protective layer on top from moisture and condensation. You won't be able to get by with just one piece of material. Therefore, the joints of the vapor barrier film are carefully and carefully taped with construction tape.
Mineral wool is also used to insulate the floor in a frame house. But its layer must be at least 20 cm. The work is carried out in the same way as with thermal insulation of walls.

Insulation scheme for a frame house

Insulation of a frame house video

Ecowool - an alternative way to insulate a frame house

This material belongs to the category of affordable insulation.

This is possible due to the fact that it is produced from two main inexpensive components: waste from the production of cardboard, paper and waste paper.
Both components form 80% of the total material, a little more than 10% is an antiseptic to prevent the development of microorganisms.
The remainder of this percentage is the additive, the purpose of which is to minimize the flammability of the insulation.

Disadvantages of the material

Areas of application for ecowool include small-scale construction, but owners of private houses do not always choose it. This is explained by a number of features of the material, which for some craftsmen are significant disadvantages.
Good thermal insulation performance, which is attributed to ecowool, decreases over time due to the fact that, under the influence of natural processes, the insulation is compressed and its volume decreases. Losses can reach up to 1/5 of the total mass. To avoid such troubles, the material is laid with a similar reserve. An excess of 25% will guarantee that the thermal conductivity of the material will remain at the same level for the entire period of operation.
Like anything that has a paper base, ecowool can absorb a significant amount of liquid. The indicator for this parameter ranges from 9 to 15%. And with each of them, the properties of the material to retain heat are lost. Therefore, it is extremely important to organize the insulated space in such a way that it is ventilated and there is a possibility of moisture removal.
Only special equipment can provide a uniform volume of insulation injection. It is believed that professional technology makes it possible to control the density of the “stuffing” to minimize shrinkage. Consequently, you will have to either hire professionals or gain experience yourself, risking getting a level of thermal insulation of lower quality than expected.

You can use the “dry” method of filling voids. Its negative point is the formation of fine dust, the contact of which on the mucous membranes and respiratory organs is best avoided. The “wet” method of application requires drying the insulation layer for two to three days. Depending on the weather, the waiting time may increase. In conditions of limited time to build a house, this is considered a big disadvantage. Although, of the two methods, it is the wet application method that allows you to achieve the best results.
The rigidity of ecowool does not allow it to be used without constructing a frame when it comes to insulating horizontal surfaces.
Despite additives that make the material less flammable, complete fire protection cannot be achieved. Therefore, the use of ecowool is not recommended near fireplace pipes, chimneys, and especially near open flame sources. To eliminate the possibility of smoldering of the insulation, a protective barrier is constructed between it and the heat source. It is used as stone wool with a foil coating or asbestos cement slabs.
Particular attention to compliance with the standards for filling with ecowool is required when insulating walls or inclined structures. Ignoring the recommendation for material consumption at the rate of 65 kg per 1 m² will lead to rapid shrinkage and the formation of areas left without insulation.

Advantages of ecowool as a heat-saving material

It may seem that with such an extensive list of shortcomings, the use of ecowool is inappropriate. This is wrong. If the technology is followed, the advantages of the material become even more obvious.

You need to start with the fact that not so much material is required. The above norm of 65 kg per m² is not always required, and the minimum consumption of ecowool is 28 kg per m³.
The insulation provides a decent level of sound insulation. A layer of one and a half centimeters does not transmit sound up to 9 dB volume.
The environmental friendliness of this material does not need confirmation, if you remember what is its basis. Actually, this is what the name says. Due to the “fault” of ecowool, allergies do not arise in the residents of the house during operation.

The only thing you should pay attention to when studying the composition indicated by the manufacturer is what substance was used as an anti-flammable additive. The best quality fire retardant is borax (sometimes called borax). Ammonium sulfates and boric acid can be the culprits of an unpleasant, persistent odor, and they do not provide long-term protection from fire.
Thanks to seamless installation, the material fills the space without leaving voids, therefore, there are no unprotected areas left.

The affordable price of insulation, coupled with good performance characteristics, often plays a decisive role when choosing a material.

Technology of insulating a frame house with ecowool

As mentioned, there are two main ways for insulation with this material: “dry” and “wet”. The second option can be water-based or using an adhesive composition. But no matter how excellent the result it gives, the simplest and most popular method is considered to be the method of backfilling with dry insulation. So, to do the work manually, you will need to perform the following manipulations.

It is a little easier to insulate floors. The purchased material must be loosened with a special apparatus, after which the pressed briquette, weighing 15 kg, will increase three times in volume.

Ecowool prepared in this way is poured between the joists. This must be done gradually, leveling the layers. At the end, the material should form a small mound. Why this surplus is needed has already been mentioned. It will compact under the weight of the boards.
To carry out work on the walls, a layer of vapor barrier material is attached to the guide posts or immediately sheathed with sheets of plasterboard or OSB. This is not done completely, but a gap is left through which the ecowool is poured. It will gradually fill the space, compacting under its own weight. But at the final stage it will have to be compacted.
All actions are carried out using protective equipment (goggles and a filter mask), and the filling process can be optimized by using an installation that blows out the material while simultaneously loosening it. Some construction companies provide the opportunity to rent such equipment.

Polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene for insulating the walls of a frame house. What to choose

Both of these materials are used in frame houses. They insulate facades on the outside and inside of the building. Despite some similarities, polystyrene foam is inferior to its opponent in most respects, but due to its good thermal insulation characteristics and low cost, it is in demand. Among the obvious disadvantages are:

not very good sound insulation,
release of harmful substances during combustion
and obvious interest in it from rodents.

Insulation of a frame house with foam plastic from the outside

The surface will have to be prepared along with all supporting structures. To do this, nails and remnants of other materials must be removed, and cracks must be sealed. A flat surface will eliminate air gaps between the wall and the foam. After leveling the surface, it is treated with a primer intended for exterior work. The composition consumption starts from 150 ml per m².

After the primer has dried, a system of vertical suspensions is constructed in increments of 60 (70) cm. Thanks to this, it will be possible to prevent distortions when attaching the slabs of material. The polystyrene foam is placed on glue, which is applied at five points in the form of small piles, and an adhesive strip is completely drawn along the perimeter of the slab. The canvas with glue is pressed tightly and forcefully to the base. Subsequent rows are laid in the manner of brickwork, that is, staggered. A portion of the diluted composition must be consumed within an hour.
If, as a result of laying, inconsistencies are formed between the sheets of material or unevenness is obtained, then all such defects are eliminated using a sharp and heated knife. The resulting gaps can be sealed:
1. a mixture of crushed foam and glue,
2. penoizol (liquid analogue of the material),
3. polyurethane foam.
Plastic dowels create additional fastening for the insulation. They will be required in quantities of at least five pieces per plate. Next comes the entire structure being reinforced with fiberglass for extra strength, and special profiles for the corners will create reliable stiffeners. It is better to apply putty in two layers, and the final finish can be, for example, facade paint.

Insulating a frame house with foam plastic from the inside

The technology for performing indoor work is similar. The surface preparation stage differs only in the use of primers for interior work.

As an adhesive composition, you can use the usual tile adhesive for ceramic tiles. The use of dowels is also desirable.
As for the cell sizes on the reinforcing mesh, they can be from 3 to 6 mm. It must be fastened by forming an overlap and pressing tightly against the foam.
Drywall is often used as the final layer. We must not forget about the mandatory sealing of seams.

Insulation of a frame house with penoplex

Expanded polystyrene in installation differs from foam plastic in increased requirements for creating protection from moisture and sunlight. The technology of wall mounting has no fundamental differences.
What exactly to prefer, you will have to decide for yourself. Both materials are really different, including in price. The latter costs more, but it is more durable and dense.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house with glass wool

Some do not take glass wool into account, considering it a material of the last generation, but in vain.

Modern representatives of insulation in this category differ from their predecessors in improved characteristics. In addition, it costs less than its “brothers”, and is able to retain heat quite well.
The principle of its installation is the same as that of stone wool. That is, in order to insulate, for example, floors, the material is cut from a roll so that it is a couple of centimeters wider than the distance between the joists.

Before installation, a waterproofing layer is created. It can be either roofing felt or polyethylene.

How the frame house will be insulated in the end is not so important, the main thing is to proceed from your own strengths and capabilities and follow the technology in everything.

For year-round operation of a frame house and its long-term service, high-quality insulation is necessary. Everything needs to be insulated - walls, ceiling, roof, floor. What materials and technologies are applicable to solve the problem, and which heat insulators are better to refuse? We will answer these questions and provide step-by-step instructions for insulating a house with your own hands.

Requirements for thermal insulation material

The frames of houses built using “Canadian” technology are assembled from OSB boards or wood. To ensure that the insulation does not cause damage to structures, it must have sufficient vapor permeability – not less than 0.32 Mg.

Fiber heat insulators – mineral wool materials – absolutely meet this requirement. Popular synthetic insulation materials, such as polystyrene foam and polymer-based analogues, cannot be used in wooden structures for two reasons:

Firstly, due to the lack of elasticity, the heat insulator will not be able to adapt to temporary deformations of the wood (shrinkage, increase in volume). The result is the formation of cracks and cold bridges.
Secondly, polystyrene foam and its analogues do not allow wood to “breathe”. This leads to moisture accumulation, mold and rotting of structural elements.

When choosing how to insulate a frame house, in addition to vapor permeability, you should also take into account the additional properties of the heat insulator. The following indicators are welcome:

fire safety;
environmental friendliness;
low thermal conductivity;
resistance to shrinkage;
minimal water absorption.

Choosing the optimal insulation

Mineral wool heat insulators are the most acceptable option for insulating a frame house. The materials are made from different raw materials, which determine the basic characteristics and scope of application. The general advantages of all types of mineral wool include: light weight, fire safety, resistance to pests and the necessary vapor permeability.

The main disadvantage of fiber insulators– hygroscopicity. To preserve the insulation properties, mineral wool needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Basalt wool - environmentally friendly and fireproof

The main component of the insulation is rocks of volcanic origin: basalite, diarite and basalt. Stone wool is a completely non-flammable material that can withstand temperatures of 1000 °C. The heat insulator retains its physical properties for 40-50 years.
The main advantages of basalt-based mineral wool:

low thermal conductivity – 0.36-0.42 W/m*C;
resistance to mechanical stress;
good noise insulation characteristics;
resistance to temperature fluctuations.

The insulation contains hydrophobic additives that ensure rapid removal of moisture. Basalt heat insulator is produced in slabs, the density of the material is 35-50 kg/cubic. m.
The disadvantage of stone wool compared to fiberglass counterparts is less elasticity and susceptibility to rodents.

Glass wool – elasticity and moisture resistance

The basic components of the heat insulator are broken glass and sand. The addition of binding components makes it possible to form rolls from the finest glass fibers. Approximate dimensions of the mats: thickness – 100 mm, width – 1200 mm, length – 10 m.

Features of glass wool:

high elasticity – the material easily takes on and quickly restores its given shape, which is very convenient during installation;
vibration resistance;
not susceptible to mold and unattractive to rodents.

Like rock wool, fiberglass is fire resistant. However, in comparison with the previous insulation, loses on several points:

Unsafe material - installation is carried out in a respirator and protective clothing. The fibers are very fragile and when cutting, a lot of “glass” dust is released.
Shrinkage of the heat insulator - over time, the risk of the formation of cold bridges increases.

Ecowool – versatility of use

A new word in the segment of thermal insulation materials -. The material is 80% recycled paper. Additional components: boric acid and sodium tetraborate. Minor ingredients provide protection against microorganisms and reduce flammability.

Distinctive features of ecowool:

Ecowool is a loose insulation material, and therefore the technology for its application is fundamentally different from working with sheet mineral wool. To create a thermal insulation layer, special equipment is required - a pneumatic inflatable device.
If the walls of a frame house are poorly insulated, there is risk of ecowool shrinkage, which is fraught with the formation of uninsulated zones.
The material is not recommended for use near open fire sources, fireplace pipes and chimneys. A protective layer of basalt foil-clad fireproof mats or fencing made of asbestos-cement slabs is required.

The main advantages of ecowool: environmental friendliness, the ability to insulate hard-to-reach places and high sound insulation qualities.

“Warm wood” - an alternative to mineral wool

This group is represented mats and boards made of wood fiber materials. The technical and operational characteristics of the insulation are at a fairly high level:

good thermal insulation - thermal conductivity is comparable to that of mineral wool;
preservation of the structure even when wet - the properties of the insulation do not change when absorbing moisture in a volume of 20% of its own weight;
high strength and excellent sound insulation – protection from impact and “air” noise;
sufficient density and elasticity - the insulation is attached between the frame posts without additional fasteners;
environmental friendliness of the material and safety of installation work.

Wood fiber insulation “breathes” and helps maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house. The disadvantages of a heat insulator include: high cost and flammability.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool: step-by-step instructions

In most cases, it is used to insulate frame structures. mineral wool in the form of mats. Therefore, subsequent instructions will be based on working with this material.

Preparatory activities

The first thing you need to do is understand the structure of the insulation cake, calculate the material and prepare the surface for installation. It doesn’t matter which side to start the work from - outside or inside. Some people believe that it is more convenient to perform thermal insulation from the street side. However, weather factors must be taken into account.

The standard structure of a thermal insulation cake with the order of layers from the internal cladding to the facade of the house:

Decorative finishing indoors.
OSB board.
Vapor barrier.
Insulation layer.
Windproof membrane.
Lathing made of bars for arranging a ventilation gap.
OSB board.
External cladding.

Recommended pitch of frame beams – 580-590 mm. This range is optimal when using standard mineral wool mats 60 cm wide. According to the standards, the thickness of the insulation for temperate climates is 150 mm. To fill the space between the beams of 15 cm, it is advisable to use mineral wool of two sizes: 50 and 100 mm.

Surface preparation comes down to cleaning off dust, removing protruding nails and blowing in the cracks with foam between the frame elements. Before attaching the insulation, it is necessary to check the wooden structures for dampness, and dry the problem areas with a hair dryer.

Interior finishing: sequence of layers

First you need to prepare the base for laying the insulation. From the inside of the house this role will be played by vapor barrier film and OSB boards.

Procedure:

Roll out a roll of insulating material and cut it to the size of the walls of the house.
Secure the vapor barrier sheets one by one to the vertical posts of the frame using a stapler. Installation rules: the insulating strips are directed perpendicular to the wooden beams, the minimum overlap is 10 cm.
Check the tightness of the protective layer.
Cut OSB boards with a jigsaw.
Secure the panels to the frame, covering the vapor barrier film.

In the future, OSB boards will serve as the basis for applying the final finishing to the walls.

Rules for installing insulation

An important advantage of using mineral wool or wood fiber insulation is the ease of installation with your own hands. Both heat insulators are quite elastic, so they do not require additional fixation. The slabs are inserted between the frame posts and are held in place due to the slight difference in size.

To ensure that the thermal insulation layer does not lose its effectiveness over time, it is necessary to follow certain rules for its installation:

Laying is done in two layers, the slabs are placed in a checkerboard pattern. The second row of mineral wool should overlap the joining seams of the first in the middle. This technique prevents the appearance of “cold bridges” that contribute to the accumulation of condensation and dampness.
Insulation boards need protection from strong winds and precipitation. By analogy with the internal wall, the heat insulator is sheathed with a special hydro-windproof membrane.

The film insulation is fixed with a stapler. For more reliable fastening, you can use a counter-latching system.

External wall cladding

The beams attached on top of the wind barrier create the necessary air gap between the thermal insulation material and the exterior finish. Further insulation of the facade depends on the material of the finishing cladding.

Under and siding of different types, moisture-resistant OSB boards are nailed onto the sheathing, to which guide bars are attached. Artificial, natural stone or facade tiles are laid directly on oriented strand boards.

Thermal insulation of a house roof

High-quality roof insulation is of great importance in preserving heat. Thoughtful and well-executed thermal insulation of the roof of a frame house saves 25-30% of thermal energy.
A popular insulation option is placing mineral wool between the rafters. The roofing pie must be supplemented with a vapor barrier film and a diffusion membrane.

Let us describe sequentially, how to properly insulate a roof:

Stretch a water-repellent diffusion film along the outer end of the rafters. Secure the membrane with a counter-batten.
Lay insulation on the inside of the rafter system. Thermal insulation is placed in two layers 100 mm thick, the installation pattern is a checkerboard layout.
Cover the mineral wool with a vapor barrier film, observing the horizontal laying of the vapor barrier in the direction from bottom to top. The overlap of film insulation is 5-10 cm.
Cover the ceiling with OSB, plasterboard, plywood or clapboard.
The external finishing of the roof is done using counter lathing. Sheathing bars are nailed onto the slats, creating a ventilation gap. OSB boards or directly roofing material (slate, corrugated sheeting, metal or flexible tiles) are attached to the top.

Insulation of the first floor floor

A lot of heat also escapes through the foundation of the house - about 15-20% of heat costs fall on the floor. As an option, you can organize water underfloor heating. However, it is easier and cheaper to insulate the base with mineral wool.

Fasten the canvases together with reinforcing tape, running it along the joining lines.

Install a log system made of boards on top of the waterproofing.

Cut out the insulation for the cells in the joists. The size of the heat insulator should exceed the distance between the boards by 1-2 cm - this gap is necessary for tight joining and eliminating gaps. The thickness of the insulation is at least 200 mm.

Cover with a vapor barrier film, and lay plywood or a finished plank floor on top.

The described technology is suitable for insulating interfloor or attic floors.

A variety of methods for using ecowool

The second most popular material for thermal insulation of frame buildings is ecowool. But here it is better not to experiment and entrust the work to professionals. Mechanized backfilling will ensure the required density and uniformity of laying.
There are three methods of using ecowool:

dry "spray";
wet application;
glue method.

Dry method applicable for horizontal surfaces, inclined closed cavities, filling interfloor ceilings and non-demountable structures. The packing density of ecowool using this method is 45-65 kg/cubic meter. m depending on the slope.

Wet technology Suitable for vertical open walls. Ecowool flakes are moistened and applied to the surface under pressure. The density of the thermal insulation layer is about 65 kg/cu.m. m.

The adhesive method is similar to the previous one, but instead of water, an adhesive component is added. Advantages of the technique: high adhesion of the insulation to the wall, elasticity of the material and low deformation after drying. The adhesive method is indispensable for thermal insulation of flows from below; this option is also suitable for treating walls.

The issue of insulating a house needs to be thought through at the construction stage. This is more profitable from a financial point of view and technically correct. Structural elements are insulated as the building is erected, and there is no need to carry out major repairs of the building after commissioning.

Video instructions for do-it-yourself thermal insulation

More information about the technology of home insulation is described in the video.

Understanding how to insulate a frame house for winter living will allow you to use it all year round. Sound insulation in the house, comfort and durability depend on how correctly the technologies are followed.

Insulation options

Before carrying out work, it is necessary to determine whether the thermal insulation will be inside or outside the building. To do this, you should know the features of each option.

External insulation:

Does not disturb the interior of the house.
A wooden wall located inside the room can save heating, as it accumulates heat.
Insulation protects the facade of the building from adverse environmental influences (moisture, high or low temperatures, etc.).

Insulating the house from the outside

Internal insulation:

Has good sound insulation.
There are no strict requirements.
No vapor barrier or waterproofing materials are required.

Insulating the house inside

However, this method has a number of disadvantages, for example:

dismantling the interior decoration of the room where thermal insulation will be installed;
accumulation of moisture in the room, which shortens the service life of the building;
indoor insulation does not protect the building façade from the negative impact of external factors.

Features of insulation

The preparatory stage of insulating a building for winter and summer does not differ depending on the selected material. The difference concerns only the installation process. Each of the materials used has its own characteristics.

Use of foam and EPS

Polystyrene foam is considered the warmest material, but it is not the best option for insulating wooden buildings.

Using polystyrene foam as insulation

Features of using these materials:

Before laying foam plastic using polyurethane foam, it is necessary to remove all cracks and irregularities, since this material does not fit tightly.
Expanded polystyrene should not be located near combustion sources, as the material is flammable.
Polystyrene foam does not allow air to pass through, so care must be taken to ventilate the room, otherwise the walls in the room may become moldy.
Expanded polystyrene must be used together with waterproofing and vapor barrier, as it does not allow moisture to pass through.

Using ecowool

This material has not been used for very long, however, it can be used in the process of insulating frame and other types of buildings. The main features of this material are as follows:

Laying this material can be done either with or without a special tool. Using the tool significantly improves the thermal insulation characteristics of the room.
Ecowool absorbs moisture well, so the installation of waterproofing and vapor barriers should be treated with greater responsibility.
Ecowool shrinks, so it should be applied in excess.
When applying it, you should use personal protective equipment.

Insulating a house with ecowool

Important! Insulation of walls with ecowool should be carried out by qualified specialists.

Use of expanded clay

Expanded clay is used much less frequently, as it has worse characteristics compared to similar materials. Its main features:

Most often used for floors, as well as interfloor ceilings.
It is mainly combined with sawdust, ash and similar materials.
It is better to use expanded clay in small fractions, so there will be fewer empty spaces.

Using expanded clay for insulating frame houses

How to choose insulation

Before starting construction work, you need to decide how best to insulate a frame house. Insulation for residential premises must have the following characteristics:

Environmentally friendly - should not emit substances harmful to human life and health.
Fire safety - the material used should not allow fire to spread, nor should it emit a lot of smoke.
Low thermal conductivity.
Strength - the insulation should fit tightly and easily and not change shape over time.
Inexpensive.

Important! These characteristics are more suitable for polystyrene foam and.

To choose the right material for insulation, you should know what pros and cons each has.

Expanded polystyrene

It is light in weight, which is very important in insulating a frame house. This material tolerates temperature changes well, and is also not afraid of moisture and does not freeze. That is why buildings using it are durable and low cost.

Insulation with polystyrene foam

Among the disadvantages are:

flammable - highly flammable;
susceptible to mechanical and chemical damage;
does not allow air to pass through, which is why the humidity in the room is constantly increased.

Often, polystyrene foam is installed on the outside of the house.

Insulation with polystyrene foam outside the building

This material can be replaced with a similar one, namely penoplex, which is more resistant to various damages, but has a high cost.

Mineral wool

The most popular material in construction, which can be in the form of rolls, mats and slabs. Mineral wool has high performance in environmental friendliness, lightness, thermal insulation and sound insulation. Buildings using it are characterized by a long service life.

Important! Cotton wool in the form of slabs (basalt) does not burn.

When insulating, it is important to pay special attention to waterproofing, since over time the wool sags and cakes; moreover, when wet, it loses its properties and becomes an excellent environment for the formation of mold.

How is insulation done?

In order to ultimately get a warm frame house, its walls must be insulated from the inside and outside. The work process is almost the same, with a few exceptions.

Insulation from outside

For the outside, it is best to choose the cross method.

The insulation is always laid with the seams staggered to avoid the appearance of blown cracks.

The frame of the building is covered with OSB boards, which should have gaps of 2-3 mm. Subsequently, they need to be foamed.

This is what OSB boards look like

Next, waterproofing is stretched, which protects both the walls of the house and the insulation from moisture and other adverse environmental influences. Usually the waterproofing has self-adhesive strips, if there are none, the knocks between them should be sealed with tape.

Connecting insulation joints

Each layer of insulation should be laid in such a way as to overlap the previous one by 15-20 cm.
The thickness of the insulation is approximately 15 cm.
After laying the insulation, all voids are filled with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of walls inside the house

After the frame house is fully insulated for winter living, you can begin interior decoration. To do this:

The first layer of thermal insulation is laid, the thickness of which is 5 cm.
Then the insulation is laid in the frame house, the thickness of which is 10 cm. The entire frame between the posts is filled with it.
Then a vapor barrier is attached, which prevents steam from entering the insulation. They are laid with the rough side outward and the smooth side facing the thermal insulation.
The bars are installed on top of it.

Important! The insulation cannot be pushed in by force or compacted, since the heat in the room depends on the voids inside it.

Insulation is also installed in the partitions between rooms. For the most part, it is required for sound insulation. To do this, slabs are installed with a layer of 10 mm. There is no need for vapor barrier here, since the temperature in the separated rooms will be the same.

Instead of vapor barrier, glassine is used here. It prevents dust from the insulation from entering the room.

Don’t forget about insulating corners in a frame house. This can be done in various ways. So, a warm corner can be made by constructing a structure of two boards, with special stands made of blocks, and the space between such structures can be insulated with mineral wool.

Ceiling insulation

It is better to carry out the work before the roof is completely assembled, so it will not interfere with the density of the installation.

The entire insulation process consists of the following stages:

Inside the house, on the ceiling beams, a vapor barrier is stretched, and a 25 mm thick board is placed on it.

Ceiling beams and vapor barrier

Insulation is laid on top, between which there should be no voids, tightly covering each layer.

Important! When laying insulation on the ceiling, you should make a small protrusion on the walls.

If insulation is not required in the attic, then the membrane film should not be stretched. A board or plywood is nailed to the attic floor.
If it is not possible to insulate the ceiling from the outside, then this is done inside, and it should be tied up so that it does not fall off. After this, sew on the waterproofing, and then on the board or plywood.

Indoor ceiling waterproofing

Roof insulation

Often, both the roof and the ceiling in a frame house are insulated. This happens in cases where the attic space is used as a second floor for housing and is heated.

The work process is practically no different from insulating the ceiling. The only exception is that when insulating the roof, waterproofing must be stretched over the material, which will protect it from environmental influences.

Features of roof insulation:

It is better to insulate from the outside, since doing it inside is inconvenient and unsafe. Many materials tend to crumble on the face.
After the rafter system is installed, a vapor barrier is sewn underneath, onto which sheathing material, board or plywood is stuffed.
Sheets of insulation are placed outside. This is done in the same way as when insulating walls, ceilings, etc.
Waterproofing is placed on top, on which the counter-lattice, sheathing and roofing are installed.

Insulation of the roof inside is carried out only if it is completely assembled.

Roof insulation

Floor insulation

Floor insulation should begin with preparatory work. This should be done before installing the frame of the house.

If the land where the building is located is clay with a high water level, then a water drainage system should be installed.

After this, 40-50 cm of soil is removed inside the foundation and a drainage system is installed. Afterwards it is covered with a sand and gravel cushion. After this, you can install the frame.

Floor insulation

If this step is skipped, you can use expanded clay. To do this, the surface is first leveled, and then the above material is poured. It is desirable that it contains fractions from 10-40 mm. After this, you can arrange the floor.

How to choose a filler

The best insulation for floors is considered to be mineral wool, polyester, steel shavings, etc. They are easy to install, use, environmentally friendly and fireproof. However, they have increased requirements for vapor barrier and waterproofing.

You can also use materials such as:

Polystyrene is lightweight, resistant to adverse influences and has a long service life. It can be regular (less durable, fireproof) and extruded - it has low thermal conductivity and moisture absorption.

Installing this type of insulation is simple: the sheets are placed end to end and an edge strip is installed along the entire perimeter of the floor.

Expanded clay and slag - has low thermal conductivity and is light in weight.
- This is an insulating foil that is rarely used as an independent insulation.
Edge tape - This is used to edge the entire perimeter of the house before the insulation is installed.

Floor insulation in stages

Floor insulation in a frame house is carried out between the profiles. That is why it is better to choose a dry screed; it is easier to work with.

The process of insulation on the ground:

Sand and crushed stone must be compacted well, then install brick columns. This will be the basis for the profiles.
Laying waterproofing. This can be bitumen paper or plastic film. Its height depends on the floor level; it is worth considering that the waterproofing should protrude slightly onto the walls.
It is necessary to leave a small gap at the junction of the floor and walls; edge insulation will be placed in it.

Stages of floor insulation on the ground

The simplest floor insulation technology is made from bulk materials. This insulation is applied perpendicular to the joists along the entire perimeter of the room, while pressing tightly.

Floor insulation using slabs

The base of the floor does not play any role in the technology of laying insulation, however, this should be taken into account when choosing a material for these purposes. So, if there are logs on the base of the floor, then a mineral wool slab is best suited as insulation, and hard materials for a concrete floor. In any case, the process of laying thermal insulation is as follows:

After laying the logs, from both sides to the bottom, bars are filled and the flooring is assembled from antiseptic tongue-and-groove boards.
Glassine is spread on top of this - this is roofing cardboard impregnated with bitumen.
Insulation is placed on top.
After this, a vapor barrier film is placed, which protects the insulation from condensation.

What work is carried out after insulating the house?

After the thermal insulation is installed, it is the turn to equip the supporting system for the ventilated cladding, as well as the surface for finishing. As for finishing, wind and water protection of the insulation can be provided by a layer of plaster.

As for the exterior finishing, you should take care of the installation of the panels in advance. To ensure that the sheathing is strong enough, the frame posts must be installed frequently. After fixing the waterproof membrane with staples to the frame, it is lined with slats, the thickness of which is about 25-30 mm. This ensures that any water that gets inside can drain out, as well as ventilation.

The wall of a frame house looks like this: internal cladding - vapor barrier - insulation - wooden frame - membrane - counter-lattice - facade finishing.

Exterior decoration of the house after insulation

When arranging walls for plastering work, sheet materials are used that perfectly remove steam and prevent condensation. The sheets prevent the insulation from blowing through.

The internal wall looks like this: internal cladding - vapor barrier - wooden frame - insulation - membrane - counter-lattice - external cladding - base plaster - plaster mesh - plaster.

Recently, frame houses are increasingly gaining popularity. Therefore, you should know how to insulate a frame house so that it is suitable for living in both winter and summer. However, it should be taken into account that the insulation must also be reliably protected from the negative effects of the environment, because moisture that gets into it leads to the formation of condensation, and it has a detrimental effect on this material. Therefore, it is imperative to use high-quality waterproofing.

They are assembled in a fairly short time, using minimal labor resources. However, with all its advantages, it still has one small drawback. If you do not provide high-quality insulation of the walls and roof, it will only be possible to use it in the summer, since it is not suitable for year-round use in our climate.

Insulation of a frame house - types of materials

The modern market offers a huge selection of building materials for insulating frame houses. Based on the above, it is very important that the insulation retains its functionality for decades; for this it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

Currently, thermal insulation materials are conventionally divided into two categories - organic and synthetic.

The first includes natural materials of natural origin (sawdust and shavings, compressed straw, etc.).
The second category includes types of insulation obtained using a high-tech production method, using various chemical components and compositions, namely: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, basaltine, and others.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of synthetic materials make them the undisputed winners in this group. They boast such qualities as:

good moisture resistance;
low thermal conductivity and flammability level;
no shrinkage and long service life;
prostate to use;
safety for humans.

Insulating a house is the most popular and well-proven method. The material has excellent noise absorption, retains heat well, and also has a high class of environmental friendliness.

Insulation of walls from inside and outside

There is no particular difference from where to start work on insulating a frame house, from the inside or the outside. Here it is more convenient for anyone. For example, installing insulation from the street is a little easier, but there is a risk that it may start to rain and then the work will have to be stopped for some time.

Standard mineral wool insulation has a width of 600 mm. Therefore, when constructing a frame, this point must be taken into account. In order for the material to fit tightly to the vertical posts, the ideal step size between them is 580-590 mm. This distance will not allow the insulation to slide down over time, since it will be tightly clamped.

According to established standards, the thickness of insulation for a structure in the central region of Russia is 150 mm. Therefore, it would be advisable to use slabs with a thickness of 100 and 50 mm.

Thus, instead of three slabs, two slabs will be enough for the structure, thereby significantly reducing labor costs. Also the material is 100 mm. less prone to deflection and therefore more securely attached to the structure.

Fastening vapor barrier and OSB boards

In order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, it must be well protected from it. To do this, the wooden walls of the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film on the inside. Using a regular stapler, we roll out the roll in horizontal stripes and fasten it overlapping along the 5 cm. to the vertical posts. Make sure that the film adheres tightly to the surface everywhere;
Next, we need to cover the vapor barrier film with OSB boards, which will serve as the basis for the interior finishing. Using ordinary wood screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the panels one by one, cutting them with an electric jigsaw if necessary.

Installation of insulation

Let us consider, as an example, the insulation of a frame with slabs based on mineral (stone) wool. The material is quite elastic, so no additional method of fastening is required to fix it; simply insert it between the posts. The slabs must be held tightly there due to the difference in size.

Installation of insulation is carried out in two layers, using a checkerboard pattern. The second should overlap the butt joints of the first, exactly in the middle. This method allows you to avoid the appearance of so-called “cold bridges”, which contribute to the appearance of condensation and dampness on the inner surface of the finish, which can result in mold and mildew.

Once all the slabs have been installed, they will need to be protected from rain and strong winds. To do this, by analogy with internal walls, external ones are sheathed in the same way.

The material used is a hydro-windproof membrane; it will reliably protect the walls from drafts and raindrops getting inside. To securely connect the membrane, secure it to the posts with counter-latching.

External wall cladding

Depending on the material you choose for finishing, you need to properly prepare the base for it. For ordinary siding or a house block, moisture-resistant OSB boards are attached to the counter-batten, to which guide bars are nailed.

It is very popular among the population, which accurately imitates the structure of real wood.

Sectional diagram of insulation

If the walls will be sheathed with some other finishing material (facade tiles, artificial or natural stone, etc.), it is unnecessary to nail guide bars to the OSB boards; the walls will be left in this form for finishing.

Roof insulation

Not many people know that roof insulation plays a very important role in creating a favorable microclimate in the house. High-quality insulation of this element reduces heat loss in the house by 25-30 % , therefore it is very important to approach this issue responsibly.

One of the most common ways to insulate a roof is to lay insulation between the roofs, and in order for the insulation to last a long time, the roofing pie must have a ventilation gap.

The essence of the process of framing a frame house with mineral wool is quite simple and looks like this:

On the outside of the roof, a diffusion membrane is nailed to the upper base of the rafters, which is fixed with a counter-latten;
Next, on the inside in two layers (each 100 mm.), using the same checkerboard order, insulation boards are laid. Pay special attention to the areas of the gables and the ridge of the roof;
The insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier film, which is attached with horizontal stripes from bottom to top, overlapping 5 cm.;
The final stage is lining the ceiling with finishing materials (lining, plywood, block house, plasterboard, etc.)

Floor insulation

Another place where the leak occurs 15-20% warmth that is so precious in our time. You can, of course, fork out the cash and install a system in your home, especially since in our time there is plenty for this.

However, why not try to insulate it well first. After all, the floor is the place where a lot of interesting things happen.

You can’t even count how many kilometers your baby crawls along it, and then takes his first steps in life on it. Spending time doing yoga and reading interesting books will bring pleasure in addition to benefits.

Sequence of floor insulation in a frame house:

A layer of waterproofing film is rolled out onto the subfloor. All joints are taped with reinforcing tape;
Between the floor joists, insulation is laid (thickness not less than 200 mm.). To prevent the formation of a gap, the width of the insulation must exceed the distance between the joists by 1-2 cm;

Overlapping insulation on top 5-10 cm. covered with a vapor barrier carpet;
Next, depending on the floor covering, the floor is covered with sheets of plywood or a finishing board is laid.

Conclusion

Today there are many different modern materials that are suitable for insulating houses built using frame technology. However, numerous positive reviews from owners show that in this case there is no point in overpaying for expensive materials. Mineral wool, which is quite affordable, does an excellent job of protecting your home from the cold.

Therefore, we can safely conclude that mineral wool is a reliable, inexpensive and fairly effective material for insulating a frame house. Due to its environmental friendliness and fire safety, insulation can be used both inside and outside the house, and nothing else is needed.

The sound insulation, comfort and durability of the entire structure depend on how correctly and with what kind of thermal insulation material the frame house is insulated. High-quality insulation will retain heat inside the room for a long time and save the amount of energy required for heating it. That is why it is extremely important to know how to insulate a frame house for winter living from the inside and outside.

Insulation from outside

One of the best options for thermal insulation of a frame building is cross insulation.

Pay attention! Insulation mats are always laid with the seams staggered so that they do not coincide. This will help avoid the appearance of blown cracks.

Cross insulation allows you to block all the cold bridges in the frame, which are wooden structural elements. To do this, on the outside of the house, in addition to the standard insulation layer of 15 cm, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation 5 cm thick.

To do this, bars measuring 50x50 mm are attached to the outside of the frame in a horizontal position. They are installed alternately, from bottom to top, at a distance of 59 cm from each other (this distance depends on the width of the insulation used, 1 cm less than the insulation). After that, 5 cm thick thermal insulation is placed between them in the spacer. Once all the insulation is installed, it is covered with a moisture-proof membrane. It will not only protect it from moisture and wind, but will also hold the slabs in the frame. The insulation inside the house will also not be able to fall out, since it is laid across the frame.

Scheme of a cross-insulation pie for a frame house

Sheets of windproof film are laid overlapping, at least 15 cm on top of each other. Secure the membrane to the bars with a construction stapler. Another sheathing is installed on top of the film using bars measuring 5x5 cm - for installing the finishing coating and to create a ventilation gap.

Insulation from the inside

After the installation of insulation on the outside of the frame house is completed, they proceed to laying the first layer of thermal insulation 5 cm thick from the inside of the building. It is mounted in such a way that the slabs are flush with all the jibs. The next layer is thermal insulation with a thickness of 10 cm. It completely fills the entire frame between the racks.

After this, a high-quality vapor barrier membrane is attached from the inside; it will limit the penetration of steam into the insulation. Place the smooth side against the thermal insulation and the rough side inside the room. The sheets are spread overlapping, and the abutments are taped with double-sided tape. It is mounted on top of it with 5x5 cm battens to secure the finishing coating.

Pay attention! The insulation cannot be compacted or pushed by force, since the thermal conductivity of mineral wool depends on the number of air voids in its structure.

Thermal insulation should be as free as possible between the frame posts, filling it completely, without gaps.

Scheme of the pie for internal insulation of the walls of a frame house

Insulation is also installed in the interior partitions, but not for the purpose of insulation, but as sound insulation. Mineral wool insulation, especially basalt, is a good soundproofing material. The slabs are laid in a layer of 100 mm (2 x 50 mm with joints spaced). Interior partitions do not require the installation of a vapor barrier membrane, since the temperature in the room on both sides is approximately the same. Therefore, heat does not tend to escape and does not saturate the insulation with wet steam.

Pay attention! Glassine is used instead of vapor barrier for interior partitions. It prevents mineral wool dust from leaking into the room. Cover it with insulation on both sides.

The insulation of the basement floor of a frame house is practically no different from the thermal insulation of walls. Essentially this is the same wall, but in a horizontal position. From below, the floor is covered with a high-quality windproof membrane with an overlap on the strapping beam on all sides. The film is secured to the subfloor so that the insulation laid in the frame does not squeeze out or tear it. Next, heat-insulating material is laid in 2 or 3 layers with the seams spaced.

The basement floor must be insulated with a layer of 200 mm. A layer 15 cm thick is laid in the interfloor ceilings for the purpose of sound insulation, and the attic is thermally insulated with a layer of 250 mm.

Scheme of insulation of the basement floor of a frame house

How not to damage the vapor barrier and other nuances

According to the standard scheme, to insulate a frame house, the installation of 150 mm of thermal insulation material is required.

But there are several nuances that need to be taken into account:

The frame of the house itself allows heat to pass through, as the thermal conductivity coefficient of wood is significantly higher than that of any insulation.
After installing thermal insulation based on mineral wool, for example, basalt, on the outside of the building, it is necessary to cover it with a windproof membrane, and cover it from the inside with a vapor barrier film.

Since power networks pass inside the frame, the outputs are passed through a vapor barrier. As a result, the film becomes leaky, and some of the heat passes through the holes to the outside, letting cold into the house. Even after gluing with special tape, the tightness of the structure cannot be guaranteed.

To avoid such a problem, you should make an additional sheathing along the inside of the frame and fill it with 5 cm thick insulation. It is extremely important to arrange it as evenly as possible, using a building level or a laser level. Since in the future sheet material, for example, plasterboard, will be attached to it for finishing with a finishing coating.

The bottom beam of the sheathing should retreat from the monolithic part of the foundation by about 15-17 cm. This is necessary so that when pouring the floor screed, it does not interfere with the sheathing and insulation.

Before installing the frame, you must immediately take into account the dimensions of the insulation boards so that no additional fastenings are required. But at the same time, the center-to-center distance between the horizontal slats must be at least 120 cm (according to the size of the drywall sheet).

For high-quality finishing of a frame house, it is necessary to install two layers of drywall. The first is mounted in a horizontal position, and the second in a vertical position.

Thanks to this method, the sockets will be installed up to the vapor barrier layer, that is, its tightness will not be compromised. In addition to all this, an additional sheathing with 5 cm thick insulation will completely block all the cold bridges and cover the entire frame of the house, increasing the thermal insulation of the room.

When choosing thermal insulation and hydro- and vapor barrier building materials, you should give preference to manufacturers of well-known brands, whose products have been tested by time, and also have quality and safety certificates. Cheap insulation materials can quickly lose their heat-saving characteristics or be unsafe for indoor use.