DIY transformer bed: tips on how to build a reliable mechanism and ideas for their implementation (90 photos). Making a bed with a lifting mechanism with your own hands, the subtleties of the process Wardrobe bed transformer do-it-yourself drawings of the mechanism

Updated:

2016-09-05

Making a wardrobe bed with your own hands is quite simple, if you correctly approach this issue, pick up good drawings and equip the bedroom with modern, multifunctional furniture. And how exactly to do this, we'll talk in our material.

Structurally, the wardrobe bed transformer can be divided into two types:

Horizontal;
Vertical.

Each wardrobe bed has its own characteristics and advantages, so be guided by your own wishes and requirements. Plus, do not forget whether this or that design of the transformer will fit advantageously in your bedroom.

Regardless of the location, each transformer bed, combined with a wardrobe, includes three elements:

Cabinet box. It is quite possible to do it yourself;
Bed. Sleeping place. The bed can be double, one and a half or single. Many prefer to buy a stock;
Bed lift. The system that is responsible for raising and lowering the bed in the cabinet. Here it is better not to invent, but to buy a ready-made, high-quality and efficient mechanism.

box

For the box, you can use wooden boards or high-quality chipboard. Based on the drawings, you can easily make a full-fledged bed-wardrobe transformer into your own bedroom.

Choose a wall where the bed closet is located, at least 2 bricks thick.
If the material is chipboard, the slabs are not very light, so be sure to reinforce the vertical walls on which the moving part of the bed will be held.
The box is the main, bearing component of the entire transformer, so you should not save on the reliability and strength of the materials used.
Having assembled a frame of three walls, you can proceed to the choice of a bed and a lifting mechanism.

Lifting mechanisms

The transformer will require the presence of lifting mechanisms that will greatly simplify the process of turning the cabinet into a bed and vice versa.

Today, the range of lifts is represented by a wide selection, where you can find:

The simplest garage curtains;
solid axes;
Pins with bearings;
Hydraulic drives;
Electrical devices, etc.

In order for the double bed to rise and fall easily enough, sometimes you just need to fix the lifts. But here you should be guided by the fact that the rise and fixation of the berth is carried out effortlessly. For these purposes, experts advise using:

Counterweights;
Gas shock absorbers;
Blocks of twisted springs.

Among all the options presented, gas shock absorbers are the most versatile, reliable and modern. Plus, they simplify the process of transforming furniture as much as possible, since they take on the main load.

Bed

When assembling a transformer in the form of a bed with a wardrobe, special attention should be paid to the bed. We noted that the bed can be purchased ready-made, thereby avoiding a rather laborious process for its manufacture.

But if you want to make furniture in the bedroom completely with your own hands, developed drawings and chose a photo as an example of the end goal, then try to build a bed yourself.

Many make a bed for a transformer based on factory-type frames with orthopedic properties. To do this, manufacturers use metal profiles, curved canvas slats and an orthopedic mattress.

What kind of transformer bed can you make?

The frame of a bed or bed is constructed from boards, wooden blocks, based on prepared drawings. The skeleton will determine the dimensions of the future bed, its dimensions. Please note that it must fit inside the cabinet, otherwise it will no longer be a transformer.
Buy a ready-made mattress, orthopedic. Moreover, a mattress is first purchased, and on its basis, calculations are made of the dimensions of the future bed-wardrobe. No other way. Otherwise, you may simply not guess, then everything will have to be redone again.
Instead of curved lamellas, boards fixed flat across the width of the bed with a gap between them of about 1 centimeter are suitable. Or you can install several boards on the ribs, and fix a sheet of chipboard or plywood of sufficient thickness on top. Both design options will be approximately the same weight and strength level.
A wall can act as a headboard, that is, you will sleep with your head as if inside a closet. If the bed is installed horizontally, then you can come up with something individually for yourself, so that there is something to lean on with the back of your head.

A finished bed will cost at least 20 thousand rubles, and the price of a homemade bed can be about 5 thousand. The choice is yours.

Closet

In addition to the fact that the bed will be hidden in the closet, it can be used for its intended purpose. This is especially true for horizontal beds, where the top of the closet will be completely free to place shelves, hangers, drawers there.

If you prefer the vertical arrangement, where the bed is laid up, then the transformer cabinet can be made into two sections or more, where:

The first will be completely dedicated to the bed;
The second will be able to play the role of a closet directly, justifying its name - a wardrobe-bed.

It remains to assemble all the components together and your transformer is ready. There is nothing particularly difficult in its manufacture. But the result exceeds the expectations of many. The main task is to correctly calculate the dimensions so that the drawing fully corresponds to the real capabilities and dimensions of the transformer elements. And the rest is a matter of technology.

In order to optimize living space, free up space in a small apartment, you should take a new approach to the issue of furnishing. It is necessary to replace bulky wardrobes, sofas and beds with compact systems - transformers. In this article we will tell you how to make a transformer bed with your own hands.

children's bunk bed transformer;
single or double bed for the bedroom;
desks that turn into an easel;
changing table that transforms into a coffee table;
a double bed that turns into a single bed after transformation.

Folding bed design

Depending on what position the bed occupies when folded, there are horizontal and vertical wardrobe-beds. The prefix "wardrobe" comes from the fact that such furniture either performs an additional function (storage space) or imitates it.
The main structural elements of the wardrobe-bed are as follows:

box - made of laminated chipboard, pine plywood or planed poplar boards;
bed - can be used factory-made or independent;
lifting mechanism - it is recommended to purchase German or Italian production.

The main details of the box are a persistent shelf and a plinth. You can do without a back wall, but from an aesthetic point of view, this is not good. You can solve the problem by hanging a picture.

Preparation for the manufacture of parts of transformable furniture

To make a transformer bed with your own hands, you need to have the following tool at your disposal:

level, square;
electric jigsaw with a wood saw;
screwdriver with nozzles for screwing self-tapping screws and confirmations;
metal tape measure and pencil (thin marker);
electric drill with a set of drills;
perforator;
pliers, shoe knife, file.

The first thing you need to make a transformer bed with your own hands is a drawing. It is carried out according to the following principles.

The sketch depicts a general view of the furniture, and the overall dimensions are given. In this case, the type of transformation should be thought out.
Using a sketch, a detailed general drawing is created.
Drawings of each part are made and all dimensions (in millimeters) are indicated. At the same time, it is taken into account that the thickness of the chipboard used is 16 mm (plates with a thickness of 18 mm and 10 mm are also produced).
When calculating the dimensions of the parts at the joints, the thickness of the PVC tape for pasting the edges should be taken into account (sometimes 0.5 and 2.0 mm).
On the drawing of each part, the sides are indicated, the edges of which are to be pasted with PVC tape.
Parts with a width of less than 50 mm should not be included in the design: such a part cannot be technologically manufactured using a chipboard cutting machine.

Important: when using chipboard with a directional pattern on the front side, the orientation of the parts should be taken into account and indicated on the drawing.

If you cannot complete the drawings on your own, you can use ready-made ones (from the Internet or special literature).

We assemble a transformer bed

To make a bed, you need to do the following:

Important: the bed (moving part of the bed) should be designed as light as possible: it is necessary to avoid the use of unnecessary parts.

One of the main conditions for choosing a place where a transformer folding bed will be installed is the strength of the wall. If this is a double transformer bed, the wall near it should be made of monolithic concrete or folded into two bricks. Otherwise, it will not withstand the load transmitted by the moving part of the transformer. In extreme cases, the problem can be solved by installing spacers to fasten the structure to the floor slab.
After making sure that a suitable place for installing furniture is chosen, we perform the following.

As a result, we get a practical transformer bed (a photo of some options is presented above).

Your attention is a do-it-yourself transformer bed for children (a video demonstrating the possibilities of transformation).

How to make a large do-it-yourself double bed. In continuation of the improvement of the apartment, it was necessary to solve the problem of expanding the living space of the bedroom with an area of 11m2. In addition to a small area, the room had another drawback - the width was only 2 meters 45 cm. The installed double bed in the center of the room and two wardrobes along the walls significantly reduced the living space, and the small width of the room made it difficult to get to the balcony door when bypassing the bed. Several rearrangements of furniture did not lead to an improvement in the situation in the room - another solution was required. Trips to furniture stores and furniture-making showrooms offered alternatives. It was decided to install a built-in lifting bed. But here, too, problems arose, it was not possible to find ready-made solutions for a double lifting bed with a mattress size of 160cm by 200cm, and the furniture manufacturing solutions offered in the workshops did not suit me with the width of the bed in the raised state and the height of the bed in the lowered state. All the considered bed designs basically contained chipboard boards, and this did not satisfy me, both for environmental reasons and for the reliability of long-term operation. And to top it off, the cost of the furniture, in my opinion, just went through the roof. This was determined by a simple calculation of the cost of component materials. For some designs, the retail cost of materials was more than an order of magnitude lower than the cost of the bed. Of course, immediately there was a desire to make a bed yourself and with your own hands. The Internet has helped with this issue.

How to make a large do-it-yourself bed

The work began with the search for the most important part of the lifting bed - hinges. Various options for lifting mechanisms with spring loops, pneumatic cylinders, counterweights and mechanical with an electric drive were considered. The choice fell on the application of the most proven and realizable method of manufacturing a lifting bed using lifting mechanics based on spring loops. The question "how to do?" the bed with his own hands was already decided with the selected option of the loops. The most powerful hinges that could be found were chosen, the manufacturer guaranteed a lifting weight of the bed of 200 kg. Hinge brand 108/4 are made in Italy. The hinges were ordered online. A month later, the transport company delivered a parcel weighing about 25 kg with two hinges and retractable legs for the bed.

Receipt of the cargo became the countdown for the start of work. The next day, the old bed was dismantled, the old mattress was thrown away and a new one was immediately bought with a size of 2000 × 1600 × 200 mm. The place for furniture creativity was ready. Maybe this is the wrong approach, but at that time I did not have a clear decision on how to make a bed. Initially, I was going to follow the classic version - the manufacture of a wall structure, where the bed was removed. But the desire to make the whole bed out of wood, and not out of chipboard, greatly increased the cost of materials. This is where the idea came to use two cabinets standing in the room as a wall structure - a niche for the future bed. But first it was necessary to make the bed itself. Geometric calculations and glued boards offered in the nearest store led to the following design of the lifting part of the bed: side walls made of thick glued boards with a section of 250 × 40 mm, end walls made of 25 mm glued boards, crossbars made of bars with a section of 45 × 45 mm. Do not be too lazy to choose cross-beams without knots and defects, the fibers should be even along the entire length of the bar! I confess that, having no experience, I was tormented by doubts - whether the design of the bottom would withstand future loads, and periodically imagined how the bed would break under me;). The work was carried out in the evenings and on weekends right in the room. So, the sequence of making a homemade lifting built-in bed. Unfortunately, a photo chronicle of the manufacture of a makeshift bed was kept, but, as it happens, it was not preserved with a small exception. The bed assembly scheme was born in the process of building a homemade lifting bed.

Instructions for making a homemade lifting bed

1. The sketch of the lifting part of the bed was a box of four boards and four crossbars to form the bottom for the orthopedic frame.

2. It was decided to connect the frame boards in THORN on glue (hereinafter, PVA glue was used to glue the wood, 1 liter was enough for everything). To apply the contours of the spikes before cutting out, a stencil is cut out of cardboard. Carefully apply the contour for cutting out, incorrect marking after sawing out will ruin the board, there is no margin for length! Remember the rule - in each connection of boards, the spike of one board must correspond to the groove between the spikes of the other board. The boards were originally 30–50 mm larger than the outer size of the box, this excess is cut off after gluing the joint.

spikes

3. The spikes were selected with an electric jigsaw and trimmed, if necessary, with a construction knife and a chisel.

4. After selecting the spikes on a flat surface (I had the floor of the room), the bed frame is assembled, it is necessary to check the internal dimensions and lengths of the diagonals - the diagonals must be equal! (±5-10mm). If necessary, the workpieces are adjusted to equal diagonals.

5. We mark the installation sites of the crossbars. The grooves are selected using a manual milling machine, the sampling depth is 30mm. Nothing worse than doing it carefully with a chisel.

6. After cutting the grooves, the blanks were polished and coated with a colorless water-based varnish. A total of 3 layers were applied. After complete drying of the varnish, the work continued.

7. We adjust the dimensions of the crossbars, taking into account the depth and shape of the grooves made. Do not throw away the scraps, they will still be needed.

8. We connect the crossbars and spike joints of the frame with glue. Prepare for this operation. The best connection will be obtained by connecting with force. The force is created with the help of rope loops twisted with a wooden block. Be careful and careful!!! Be sure to make linings so that the ropes do not damage the boards. It is necessary to twist the loop until significant efforts occur during twisting.

It is very important to set all the corners and constantly control the length of the diagonals. The diagonals must be equal. It is necessary to dry the glue thoroughly and reliably. It is better to leave the frame alone for a few days.

9. After the frame was made, the room was rearranged, one of the cabinets was specially moved to form the second wall of the bed niche. The distance between the cabinets should be equal to the outer width of the bed and the thickness of the mounted hinges.

10. Naturally, I did not attach the hinges to a simply standing cabinet. Cabinets need to be reinforced and fixed. Firstly, all removable shelves in the lower part of the cabinets were rigidly screwed to the walls with furniture screws, and all existing threaded connections were tightened. Each cabinet is bolted to the wall at least three points with the help of corners. As a result, the cabinets were rooted to the spot :).

11. Since there was no clarity on how the bed was assembled, I decided to install hinges and check the mechanism. The position of the hinges determines the height of the lowered bed and the distance from the wall of the raised bed. When choosing the position of the hinges, it is necessary to take into account the course of the headboard along the radius of the axis of rotation. In my version, the board, when lowering the bed, passes 3 cm from the wall. The rotation axis coordinates are shown in the sketch.

12. The loop is a structure in the form of a frame mounted on a support and the actual loop mounted on the bed. The frames were attached to the cabinets with self-tapping screws. They must be installed symmetrically and at the same level.

13. The hinges were fastened with furniture bolts through a large washer. The hinges have holes with corresponding threads. Holes were marked and drilled in the frame boards at the installation site. Through the holes, the loops were attached to the bed. I want to say right away that if you go my way, then at least four springs must be removed from the hinge so that you can easily lower the bed frame for work and put a small load to avoid spontaneous lifting.

14. After screwing the hinges, I installed the frame vertically. The construction of the box was still light and without much difficulty I inserted the hinges into the frames and fixed them with standard brackets. With fewer springs, the frame fell easily and remained at the bottom with a little weight, and when it was raised, it also had to be held. The room immediately became freer. Further, all work was carried out on a fixed bed.

15. The next step was to strengthen the bottom of the bed. The crossbars made of bars looked flimsy and it was hard to believe that they could withstand the weight. But there was nowhere to retreat - construction continued. The bottom was decided to be made of 6mm plywood.

16. Bars with a section of 45x45mm were glued to the side walls of the frame around the perimeter. The glued bars and crossbars must be in the same plane. Clamps were used to create pressure. In order not to damage the boards, it is necessary to lay gaskets. With only 5 clamps, the bars were glued in three stages. The bars were not glued only to the side walls of the top of the bed, where the legs were attached. Further work was carried out 7 days after gluing the last bar.

17. For the legs in the upper end board of the bed frame, 2 square holes are selected. Initially, there were doubts that the mounting holes for the legs were not enough, but subsequent operating experience showed the reliability of the fastening.

18. The bottom is made from purchased 6 mm plywood. It was not possible to make the bottom from one piece of plywood, since the standard width of a plywood sheet is 1500mm, two sheets of plywood with dimensions of 1500x1500mm were bought in the store.

19. Sheets of plywood are cut so that the seams fall on less loaded bars. After cutting out all the pieces of plywood, I began work on attaching them to the bars. It was supposed to fasten the plywood with glue, and to create pressure in the places of gluing, drill through holes in the plywood with a diameter of 3 mm to press the sheets with self-tapping screws. Plywood is laid out on the inner frame and future holes are marked, to reduce notches in the gluing area, it is better to start drilling from the back of the plywood sheets. In the place where the legs are attached, grooves are left in pieces of plywood for access to the leg fasteners.

20. Places for installing sheets are liberally lubricated with glue and plywood sheets are pressed with self-tapping screws. The bed is raised and again left alone for a few days. Then all the screws are removed, and the remaining holes are filled with PVA glue in several steps until the glue dries completely. Some of the screws left in place.

21. With the installation of plywood, the bed became heavier and it was necessary to adjust the tension of the springs to facilitate lifting, it no longer spontaneously rose. In the process of drying, the looseness of gluing plywood with bars is additionally covered with glue. This must be done to prevent possible squeaks in the bed.

22. At this stage, you can remove the bed from the hinges and install three more springs. Further the bed will become heavier and the installation of springs will require more effort.

23. Tests of the plywood-covered bottom showed (three adults stood in the center of the bed) that the bed was solid. After testing, the bottom of the bed was additionally sanded and varnished with a water-based varnish in three layers.

24. After the varnish has dried, a mattress is installed in the bed. The mattress in the straightened state turned out to be slightly larger and therefore held tightly in the internal volume of the bed frame and its additional fastening, as in the site, was not required.

25. The next practical tests of the bed were carried out, according to the results of the presence of a large free space between the mattress and the wall in the raised state, I decided to place pillows and a blanket in the bed. For this, four Velcro straps from the mattress packaging are installed. The ends of the belts were attached to the bottom of the bed with self-tapping screws - bedbugs. When the bed was raised, the blanket with pillows was pressed against the mattress by straps.

26. Finishing continued with the installation of lining from the side of the outer part of the bottom from fiberboard sheets - sheets from the bottom of the old bed were used. The sheets were fastened with glue and pressed with postal nails. All sheets are exposed in one plane. After gluing the fiberboard, the bed was already raised with considerable effort and the tension of the springs was adjusted with the appropriate screw on each hinge to easily raise the bed.
27. For strict fixation of the bed in a vertical position, bed movement limiters are mounted when lifting. The limiters are installed on a horizontal board between the cabinets, which also serves as a dust protection for the raised bed. The limiter is made of a piece of board, a shock absorber made of sponge rubber is installed at the place of contact with the bed. It is better to fix a piece of the board with glue and self-tapping screws. The adhesive mount failed and was reinforced with self-tapping screws.

The room is too cramped and does not have the desired amount of free space, but is all the furniture in the room necessary? If you have no way to expand the living space of your apartment, other than moving into a larger, modern home, do not be upset, because there are a lot of great ideas. do make your little home more comfortable to live in!

A rollaway bed is a must for small apartments where you need to fit everything without cluttering up the space.

Successful disguise of furniture makes a bulky structure aesthetic, suitable for any room.

What takes up a lot of space in the room? Most people will answer that it is a sofa or an old sofa. If this is the case in your case, then after reading our article, you will not only learn how to save space by installing folding th bed, but also learn how do her own hands.

Vertical orientation is the most economical option for wall placement of a bed.

An additional advantage in favor of creating a new bed will be getting rid of old sofas that have long gone out of fashion. At the same time, a new, modern, comfortable folding bed will soon become your pride, because you will be happy to show your creation to friends who have come to visit!

In this design, furniture can be of any size: single, double, non-standard.

The folding bed in the assembled state looks like an ordinary compact closet for clothes, occupying a minimum amount of space in your small apartment, but thanks to the folding n Thanks to this mechanism, the sleeping place is easily unfolded, turning into a real feather bed. Yes Yes exactly! The level of comfort of sleeping on a folding bed can be equated precisely to the convenience of relaxing on a luxurious soft feather bed!

A niche for furniture is a pencil case, a wardrobe with hinged doors or a closet.

A wardrobe bed can be an independent piece of furniture, but most often it is included in a whole furniture set.

So, now that there is no doubt about the need for this thing to appear in your apartment, you can start manufacturing and assembling, but first you need to decide on the design, as well as the external design of the folding bed.

In the folded position, such a bed takes up a minimum of space and does not harm the spine during sleep.

It can be vertical or horizontal, but it should be borne in mind that horizontal options are usually intended for children and teenagers, representing small single beds that turn into a shelf or chest of drawers, while vertical designs can be of any size.

The chest of drawers can be used in the children's room or placed under the wall in the living room, as a "reserve" in case guests arrive.

Simple operation allows you to use the design in a room for children.

First you need to create a drawing of the future product, which will help you navigate the assembly process much faster, getting the desired result. You do not need the skills of a design engineer, it is enough to prepare a simple schematic drawing of the future bed, specifying the dimensions and configuration of the structure on it.

Drawing of a wardrobe-bed.

The next important step is the selection and purchase of the necessary materials and tools. The most high-quality construction will be obtained from chipboard panels, therefore, we recommend using them as the main material. Chipboard panels should be purchased at specialized shopping centers, since the durability of your future bed will depend on the quality of the source material.

The base of the bed is better to do orthopedic.

You will also need:

D rel;
Screwdriver;
E electric jigsaw;
R snail;
M furniture screws;
With amores;
About the flip mechanism.

Tools can always be purchased in specialized stores or ordered online.

So, you prudently purchased the necessary materials, tools, prepared a drawing, decided on the dimensions of the future piece of furniture. When everything you need is already prepared, we begin to make furniture with our own hands. We conditionally divided the assembly process into 4 steps.

Step one. You need to assemble the frame closet and hiding a compact berth. Such a box consists of several parts: plinth, back wall closet and, as well as shelves for emphasis. All parts are attached to each other with self-tapping screws or screws, located approximately 25 centimeters apart. Assembled closet must only be installed on a level floor.

Cabinet frame assembly.

Top panel attachment.
Step two. We install the assembled structure, which will serve as a reliable support for the folding part of the furniture and fasten it to the wall.

The "skeleton" of the cabinet is ready.

We fasten the "skeleton" to the main wall of the apartment.
Step three. Now we assemble the base. It is a frame of boards, the height of which corresponds to the size of the future mattress. In this case, the base should ideally fit the frame of the already assembled by us closet a.

We attach lamellas to the frame.

Thus, we obtain a structure where the mattress will be placed in the future.
Step four. Now that all the main parts of the structure are assembled, we connect the base to the box, fixing the parts together with self-tapping screws. Then we fasten folding oh mechanism in accordance with the attached instructions.

Installation of the bed frame using the bed lift mechanism and gas springs.

An important node of the bed - in this place the greatest load.

It is better not to experiment at this stage and purchase a factory-assembled folding mechanism.

Thus, it will be possible to avoid unnecessary difficulties at the finishing stage of work, significantly saving time. At the final stage, we simply connect the case with other elements, after which it remains to trim the outer part of the box with boards so that it looks more like closet , as well as paint the structure to your liking.

After you have connected the folding mechanism to the mattress frame, you can safely use such a bed.

We install the facade in the form of improvised cabinet doors. For the handles, the bed will be translated into a horizontal position.

For a more aesthetic appearance of the finished structure, the entire product must be varnished to protect the wood from dampness and decay if the chipboard panels were not originally processed.

The price for high-quality German and Italian lifting mechanisms is quite high, but the safety is worth it.

We install a mattress and a compact berth is ready! Now you can enjoy new comfortable furniture and, of course, a lot of free space in the room, which, it would seem, had nowhere to come from!