The roof of the house is a reliable and durable protection from rain, wind, scorching sun or cold snow. It retains heat in the premises, decorates the appearance of the building. A do-it-yourself gable roof is the final stage in the construction of the box, requiring preparation and skill from the builder.
Installation includes assembly of the truss system and lathing, hydro- and thermal insulation works, laying of roofing material, filing of overhangs. The roof is built for many decades, so it must be safe, functional and durable.
A gable roof is the most common design in private construction. It consists of two planes inclined in opposite directions at an angle to the horizon of 20-42 °, connected at the top - the ridge. Thanks to this form, snow, rain and melt water flow down from the roof surface without lingering. With an increase in the angle of inclination, the windage of the structure increases, which, with strong gusts of wind, can lead to separation.
The supporting frame of the roof consists of a truss system, which includes the following elements:
On the crate, layers of hydro-, noise- and vapor barriers, insulation, if the attic is residential, and roofing materials are mounted.
The gable roof truss system in private construction is usually made of wood. The material is available, easy to process, allows you to build light spatial structures that do not overload the walls and foundation.
Schemes of the truss system of a gable roof.
Sometimes rolled metal is used for the construction of the frame - channels, pipes, I-beams, corners. This method in individual construction is used much less frequently. Steel structures are more expensive, assembly requires professional skills and equipment.
The cross sections of standard load-bearing elements are:
- mauerlat (lying) - a bar with a thickness of 100, a height of 150 mm, a log with a diameter of 170-190 mm;
- rafters - timber 50x150, 100x150 mm, logs hewn to one edge, boards laid on edge;
- racks - 100x100 mm;
- sheathing boards - thickness 25 mm.
With large spans of houses and high loads, the dimensions of the sections of the bearing elements are determined by calculating the strength. With appropriate preparation with antiseptics, wood is resistant to decay. Special compositions - flame retardants - protect the material from fire.
In addition to the supporting frame and covering, the roof contains the following elements:
From the sides, the roof is limited by gables - parts of the walls of a triangular shape. The attic can serve as an attic and be used as a living space for permanent or temporary residence.
Features of the construction of roofs with an angle
A gable roof is the easiest option for building a private house. The truss system can have a layered, hanging or combined structure.
Layered and hanging truss system.
In the first case, the rafters are “leaned over” - they are laid on external and internal supports. In the second, they “hang” with support only on the walls.
Layered construction
The layered system is used in the construction of houses with internal main walls, which unload external enclosing structures from thrust. The main load here is vertical.
The absence of horizontal bursting forces simplifies and reduces the cost of the design of the supporting roof frame. It consists of rafter legs, struts, crossbars, runs and racks. Mauerlat or bed is mounted 100-150 mm above the floor level for free access to the bottom of the rafters. If the walls are fragile, it is placed around the perimeter of the building. Otherwise, you can get by with shorties 60-70 cm long, laid under the rafter legs.
In wooden buildings, the function of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper crown or strapping. The rafters are cut into the carrier beam with the lower end, additionally fixed with staples and twists of wire. So that bursting stresses do not occur in the ridge and the rafters do not move along the slope, the pairing is performed with an overlap or butt, fixed with overlays, bolts, dowels.
The system is reinforced with girders, struts and racks. In addition, it helps to reduce the cross section of the rafters and deflections. Connect the elements with metal fasteners - nails, staples, bolts, overlays, rings, toothed discs.
Roof hanging method
Hanging rafters are mounted when the house spans 6-14 m. Relying only on the outer walls, the load-bearing beams perceive significant bursting forces. To distribute them, additional horizontal and vertical elements are introduced into the structure - crossbars, puffs, grandmas (racks based on a puff).
The wider the span of the structure, the greater the stresses arising in the structures, the more difficult the device of the frame. Up to 6 m, there are enough puffs that combine the functions of floor beams. Above - additional crossbars are introduced. In houses without an internal load-bearing wall exceeding a width of 9 m, the roof system is strengthened with grandmas and struts. A fragment of two rafters, puffs and ties is called a truss.
In some cases, the Mauerlat is not installed. Finished trusses are mounted on a board laid on top of the wall on a layer of waterproofing. The rafters are cut into a puff or laid with a beveled edge. Fasten with dowels, overlays, clamps.
The ridge knot is more difficult to solve than in layered roofs. The rafters are cut into a horizontal beam, the joint is reinforced with wooden or metal plates. The installation of a hanging rafter system is more complicated and expensive than a non-thrust one. Therefore, trusses are often installed in increments of 3-4 m, connected by girders, along which layered rafters are laid. This method is called combined.
The advantage of hanging structures is the ability to use the attic space under the attic.
The choice of roof design
How to make a gable roof at home, you need to determine at the design stage before installing the box. If there is an internal main wall, it is advisable to use a layered system, in other cases - hanging or combined.
The angle of inclination of the rafters depends on the wind loads in the region - the larger they are, the lower the roof should be. The choice of roofing material also affects the slope. For various types of coatings, manufacturers recommend the optimal angles.
Important. When choosing a roof structure, the width of the span, the load from snow, wind, and own weight are decisive. The higher the indicators, the more powerful the sections of the elements should be, the more reliable the execution of the nodes.
Installation of a gable roof
For self-production, a rather difficult task is a gable roof of a house, step-by-step instructions will help you build it correctly and without errors.
Mauerlat mount
For the manufacture of a support beam, a beam or log is used, which is cut on one side for laying on the wall. The base must be level and horizontal. Under the Mauerlat, waterproofing is laid from rolled materials or coating compositions are used. This will protect the wood from rotting.
Important. For recommended installation armopoyas on top of the wall. It gives rigidity to the structure and at the same time serves as a solid base for attaching the truss system.
Mounting methods that are used when mounting the Mauerlat:
- Steel wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm. In brickwork, under each rafter leg 3-4 rows lower, thin reinforcement twisted 2-3 times is laid. After the solution has dried, the beam is installed on a waterproofing layer, tied with hardware, and the ends are firmly fixed.
- Metal anchors or L-shaped studs. They are laid into the wall during masonry or concreting in increments of 1-1.5 m to a depth of 45 cm. The rod must protrude at least 3 cm above the Mauerlat so that the nut and washer can be tightened. Preliminarily mark the locations of the holes for the fasteners by laying the beam on the hay and hitting it.
- Dowel pins. A plastic sleeve is driven into the prepared hole, a self-tapping screw is screwed into the concrete. A good result is the use of chemical anchors. Mauerlat is mounted on fasteners in the same way as the previous description.
- Curved reinforcement. Scraps of steel wire with a diameter of 10 mm or more in the shape of the letter L are laid between rows of blocks or bricks to a depth of 30-40 cm, the upper edge is released 25 cm above the Mauerlat. After mounting the beam, the reinforcement is bent and fixed with nails.
- Wooden plugs and staples. Pieces of antiseptic timber with a length equal to the longitudinal size of the brick are embedded in the masonry directly under the rafter leg or 1 row lower. Mauerlat is fixed to the corks with metal brackets.
The timber for the Mauerlat is spliced along the length with an oblique or straight lock. In the corners they are connected “in half a tree”, “in a paw”. If the wood is not dry enough, anchoring with a nut is recommended. The position of the beam is adjusted every year until the moment when intensive shrinkage stops. It usually takes five years.
Important. Hardware in masonry or concrete should be as stationary as possible. Fasteners are unreliable if the anchors are mounted at an angle or their length is insufficient.
Hanging rafter device
A do-it-yourself gable roof with hanging rafters with a span of up to 6 m is mounted in the following sequence:
- Align the base horizontally.
- On the top trim mark the position of the rafters. Usually between them 0.8-1.5 m.
- Gather farms or arches from rafters, puffs, crossbars on the ground.
- Raise and install farms in the design position, starting from the extreme ones. Each is fixed with temporary jibs to maintain the vertical, which is controlled by a plumb or level.
- Pull the cords along the lower and upper points between the extreme structures. Intermediate elements are exposed on them.
- They fix trusses or arches with ridge boards, controlling the correspondence of the distances between the upper and lower points.
Important. If there are more than 6 m between the supports, the farm is reinforced with a headstock and struts. During installation, the truss structure is connected with temporary fasteners from diagonal boards.
Options for attaching hanging rafters to the Mauerlat
In the spacer system, the rafter and Mauerlat interface is performed using two technologies:
- in a rigid way, excluding the movement of elements;
- movable, or sliding, designed to compensate for shrinkage deformations of wood.
Rigid fastening is carried out with or without gash. In the first case, a saddle is cut out in the rafters for landing on a support beam. For this, a template is used. For additional support area and blocking of the movement of the system, washed down is done on a Mauerlat (fastening with a tooth) or on a thrust beam. Sampling wood weakens the section, so it is not recommended to cut more than 1/3 of the height of the board or beam.
In a knot without washing down, the forces from the rafters are transmitted to the Mauerlat only through fasteners - metal plates, corners and dowels. Additionally, a thrust bar up to 1 m long is installed, unloading the interface.
With the movable method, the elements are not rigidly connected. Wooden structures can move with fluctuations in humidity, change dimensions during shrinkage. Special sliding supports are used that allow the movement of the rafters along the axis. Such fasteners are often used in wooden buildings where deformations are significant.
In the case when the rafters are rigidly connected with tightening into one structure, the beam itself is attached to the mauerlat by means of corners.
The device of layered rafters
The sequence of installation of a non-expansive system differs from a hanging one:
- On the inner supporting wall or pillars, a bed is laid flush with the Mauerlat.
- Install racks.
- A ridge beam is mounted on them.
- So that the supports do not move, they are connected by longitudinal and lateral braces.
- The rafters are supported on the racks and the beam alternately, starting from the extreme ones, in the ridge they are fixed overlay or end-to-end.
Apply galvanized corners, pads, self-tapping screws, clamps, T-shaped plates, studded fasteners.
Lathing installation
Lathing - the basis for laying roofing. At the same time, it strengthens the truss system, gives it stability and rigidity. It is made of boards, bars, moisture resistant, plywood, OSB. Boards or bars are mounted along the ridge. If the distance between them is up to 1 cm or the crate is made of shields or sheets, then it is called flooring. If the step is larger, then this is a sparse construction.
For laying large-sized rigid materials - corrugated slate, corrugated board, metal tiles, folded sheets, a sparse crate is used. It is stuffed according to the pattern.
If the material is small-sized, heavy or flexible - ceramic or bituminous tiles, ondulin, roll types - use flooring.
The crate can be single or double. In the latter case, first a row of bars is laid in increments of 0.6-1 m, then boards or shields are stuffed over them.
If the roof is supposed to be insulated and a full-fledged roofing pie is to be arranged, then an additional counter-lattice is mounted. Its function is to create a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.
Algorithm for mounting the crate with a counter-crate:
- Waterproofing is attached to the rafter legs.
- On top of the rafters, bars 40 mm thick are stuffed.
- Perpendicularly lay the boards of the crate.
Complete the work with the installation of roofing. Insulation and vapor barrier are installed from the inside. heat-insulating mats are placed between the rafters, the film or membrane is fixed on top.
Everyone who builds a private house wants to save a little. So the idea of \u200b\u200bmaking a roof with your own hands arises. And for this, it is necessary to correctly install the truss structure and lay the roofing material, and each of these stages has its own nuances.
Construction types
Today, roofing acts not only as a protection for your home, but also as its distinctive architectural feature. Depending on what kind of roof the house has, there is a general impression of the facade. For example, a mansard roof makes the look of the house more conservative, while an exploited flat roof is built over modern cottages in high-tech, modern, eco styles.
flat
Despite their apparent primitiveness, it is flat roofs that are the most difficult to build. They are not very popular with the Russian consumer, since they are associated mainly with Soviet-built high-rise buildings, but recently an increasing number of people appreciate the convenience and functionality.
There are operated and non-operated flat roofs. In the first case, the roof surface is used as an additional functional space. So, here you can set up a garden, put a playground, organize a gym or adapt it to a terrace. In the second case, a roof is just a roof.
It is worth noting that the device of an unexploited version is much simpler, so for self-erection it is worth choosing it.
Flat roofs heavily load the walls, so you should not choose this model if you live in a frame house. In addition, it is advisable to consult with a professional so that he draws up a project and makes all the calculations. From a financial point of view, even with the help of a specialist, the arrangement of a flat roof is much cheaper than any other.
The biggest problem is removing snow from such a roof. In this case, it will have to be periodically cleaned manually so that the snow load is not excessive for the structure. You will also need to organize a drain (the internal option is best suited for flat roofs). We must not forget that flat roof suitable for initially strong or additionally reinforced walls, otherwise the load-bearing walls may not withstand and crack.
Shed
Shed roofs are rarely chosen for full-fledged private houses. This is due to their small decorative qualities. Indeed, the shed design looks unfinished. Therefore, much more often you can see a shed roof over a private country house, an extension or a garage. If it is chosen for a cottage, then it is most likely made in a modern style.
The first and main advantage of a shed roof is its simplicity. Even a beginner can make a shed roof, starting with drawing up a drawing and ending with finishing. Complex calculations are not required here, you just need to know the basics of geometry. The shed roof can withstand both snow and wind loads well. It is only important to install it correctly. As with a flat roof, savings are achieved through the small amount of materials required.
Not to mention the difficulties with ventilation. There is almost no free space under a shed roof, so some difficulties may arise. It is practically impossible to make an attic under an ordinary shed roof, as well as to take at least some space under the attic. Most often, a shed roof is used as an unusual ceiling for the upper floor, which imposes additional obligations on its insulation and waterproofing.
The most popular are structures with multi-level shed roofing systems, which look much more unusual and futuristic, especially if the house itself is correctly integrated into the surrounding landscape and is made in modern stylistic directions.
gable
Gable structures can be found much more often than single-sided ones. This is due to their traditional appearance, which many residents associate with comfort and coziness. The construction of a simple symmetrical gable roof also does not take much time and effort and will be on the shoulder even for a beginner. However, financially, a gable roof is much more expensive than a single-pitched or flat roof.
You don’t have to take care of a gable roof: it will not be necessary to manually clean the snow from it, the maximum is to renew the paintwork from time to time. In favor of gable roofs, the fact that they equally distribute the load on the walls also speaks. In the case of, for example, a single-slope structure, more weight will fall on the “low” wall, and a dual-slope structure distributes the weight between two parallel walls. In this regard, it can be erected over houses from fragile, in a general sense, materials.
An example is a frame cottage.
Before construction, it will be necessary to draw up a scheme or project, so that in the future the rafter system can withstand the weight of the roofing material. By the way, the rafter belt is made on the ground and only then transported to the installation site. Therefore, not even the strongest person can make such a roof, but professional builders still advise doing a gable roof with a partner.
With preliminary calculations and proper preparation, the attic space under the roof can be turned into an attic, however, the decision to build an attic floor is best taken at the design stage of the building and the roof in particular, since a number of requirements are put forward for attics (especially residential).
hip
This type is one of the most popular. The four-slope design with two triangular and two trapezoidal slopes is comfortable, functional and beautiful. A big plus is that here you can organize a spacious attic - even after the roof is built. To do this, you will need to carry out some insulation and insulation work, but you will not need to disassemble the roof: everything can be done from the inside.
All hip roofs are able to withstand strong snow and wind loads. The structure has four stiffeners, each of which has approximately the same weight, which is why the structure acquires similar strength. There is another reason to choose a hip roof: with this type, you can make large cornice overhangs along the edges, which will protect the walls from rain or snow drops. Due to the fact that all overhangs are in the same plane, they are less destroyed, since they are all exposed to the same negative environmental factors.
An important advantage is also in the aesthetic side: a house with an attic under a hip roof looks more harmonious, not so elongated upwards.
The disadvantages include difficulties with the construction of a roof of this type, high cost. It will take not only impressive financial investments, but also a lot of time. It will not be possible to make such a roof alone - you will definitely need a whole team. If there is an attic under the roof, and the windows are located directly in the roof itself, then water can seep through them if the installation was not carried out completely correctly. The solution would be to cover the windows from the outside, but this is impractical.
Half hip
Half-hip roof began to be popular in our country not so long ago. In appearance, it is very similar to the classic hip, however, it has one difference, which is that the end slopes do not fall to the level of the Mauerlat, but remain slightly higher, as if opening part of the wall. As a result, windows can be made in a flat wall through which water will not seep through.
The most demanded are gable half-hip structures, however, four-slope ones can also be found. It should be borne in mind that it is impossible to make a four-slope half-hip one yourself: you will need the right plan, a project with all the calculations.
It takes special knowledge and skills to do this.
Half-hip roofs have all the same advantages as hip roofs. An additional advantage is the presence of walls in which you can make windows or arrange access to the balcony. Materials for construction will also require much less. However, the time spent on construction will increase markedly, since the construction of this type of roof is more complex.
When planning and designing, it is also necessary to take into account the type of roofing material, since it directly affects how rigid the truss system should be. In addition, it must be borne in mind that the truss system will have more components. The process of laying the finishing material will also become more complicated.
Shatrovaya
The hipped roof also belongs to the popular four-slope, but it has a significant difference from the hip and half-hip. Here, all four diagonals converge at one point, which is the peak of the roof. The design can be flat or high. It depends on climatic features: the direction and strength of the wind, the amount of snow and the like. Since the roof is similar in structure to a tent, it got its name precisely because of this.
An important advantage is the absence of the need for the construction of gables. Thus, a significant amount of building materials and time can be saved, thereby spending less money on construction. Another advantage is the low risk of leakage. Due to the pyramidal structure, precipitation easily rolls off the roof without lingering. On the other hand, this shape of the roof contributes to its uniform heating, so in the summer months you can use the attic or attic as a living space without worrying about additional heating. Finally, here you can not equip a drainage system, since the water from the roof drains without hitting the walls, thanks to the wide overhangs.
There are some nuances. So, it is quite difficult to design a hipped roof on your own, since this implies a special structure of the truss system. It is also not easy to build a truss frame with your own hands: there are many connections that must be highly reliable and rigid. Thus, the need to hire specialists leads to the fact that a large amount of financial resources will be spent on construction. It must be borne in mind the fact that there is a high risk of delamination of the finishing material (for example, tiles or slate).
conical
A cone-shaped roof is often referred to as a round roof because it is made up of many facets, making it appear from afar that the base is round rather than polygonal. For typical cottages, this type of roof is not typical. The conical structure can be found above mansions or castles, and also as part of a roofing composition with a bay window. The cone-shaped pattern gives the building an interesting fairy-tale look, distinguishing it from all other houses.
The positive qualities of the design include its seismic resistance. Due to the many stiffening ribs, as well as the rounded shape, such a roof will withstand any wind and snow loads, as well as earthquakes or other similar disasters.
Unfortunately, such roofs have more disadvantages than advantages. So, you cannot make a window in the roof itself. This is due to its shape, tapering upwards, as well as aesthetics: windows in a cone-shaped design do not look very attractive, spoiling the whole view. Another disadvantage is connected with this - the inability to organize an attic, because the insufficient level of illumination is a significant drawback. Materials for construction will require much more than for other roofs. It is not only about the rafters, but also about the finishing roofing material. The design and construction itself is quite complex, so you will need to hire specialists with the necessary knowledge.
Attic
This name generalizes several options for roof structures at once, however, an important factor is the presence of an attic space under the roof. This is not about an ordinary attic space, but about a full-fledged attic. It has a number of requirements, one of the main ones is the height of the ceilings. Here it should be at least 2.5 m. The ceiling may be lower, however, lowered ceilings should occupy up to 50% of the total space.
The mansard roof can be laid both at the planning stage and after construction is completed. Of particular interest are residential attic rooms, which can be organized far from under all roofs. So, it is problematic to place one under a single-pitched or double-pitched structure, but all four-pitched roofs involve converting the attic into an attic in the future.
It is worth bearing in mind that some roofs do not necessarily need to be insulated right away. Sometimes it is possible to insulate and waterproof the roof from the inside, when the need arises.
Windows are another highlight. If the attic was taken into account at the planning stage, then there may be built-in windows in the roof, lying in the same plane with it or specially attached, similar to birdhouses. It is undesirable to do without windows completely, therefore it is advised to make windows there when converting the attic into an attic.
Keep in mind that roof windows are several times more expensive than ordinary ones, since they, along with the roof, must prevent water and drafts from entering the attic.
Complex
The roof of a complex structure is the most interesting, but it is also problematic to build it yourself. This is due to technical difficulties: you need to correctly calculate the load on the rafters, on the Mauerlat. If the calculations are carried out incorrectly, then there is a high risk of collapse of the roof or cracking of the walls.
As a rule, complex roofs are built in order to expand the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe house: under such a structure, you can place a full-fledged attic room, or even two. In this case, the roof is insulated and prepared in advance so that in the future you do not have to deal with it from the inside. A complex roof is not easy to process without being completely disassembled, as there are many joints, joints, corners.
The advantages of complex roofs include their attractive appearance. It is always possible to design a structure so that it is fully consistent with the surrounding landscape. Among the shortcomings in the first place is complexity. It is almost impossible to make such a roof on your own, so you will have to hire a team of professionals. In addition, an impressive amount of materials will be required both for the construction of the truss system and in order to cover the roof.
All the variety of types of roofs will allow you to choose the option that is ideal for your cottage or home. You need to calculate your budget and strength in advance, as well as pay attention to the environment - not every house will fit harmoniously. For example, a flat roof requires a modern landscape around, while a conical one requires as traditional as possible.
Preparation and tools
At the first stage, it is necessary to carry out all the preparatory work, prepare all the necessary materials and tools. The list can be called standard. So, you will need mastic and sealant, end and cornice strips, a construction knife, a trowel, a hammer and a roofing mop. All these tools are suitable for laying a soft roof, because it is this type that can be mounted alone.
First you need to strengthen the existing truss system. If you do it yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the design features of the form you have chosen. In the vast majority of cases, the truss frame is assembled on the ground, after which it moves up and is attached to the Mauerlat. For strengthening, you can use plywood, OSB-boards or tongue-and-groove boards. Please note that plywood is not suitable if the attic or attic space is residential, since the material is highly flammable and releases toxic substances when heated.
It is better not to work in winter. If it turned out that the installation is carried out in the winter, then do not forget to leave expansion gaps of 3-5 mm between the seams so that the layers do not deform during expansion. In addition, you need to thoroughly treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic to prevent the appearance of microorganisms or mold fungi .
Such processing will significantly delay the possible rotting of the rafters, especially if you do not do the waterproofing correctly.
To build a truly high-quality roof, you need to follow some recommendations:
- When transporting materials intended for roofing, make sure that they do not bend, do not deform. This is especially true for easily bending options, such as corrugated board.
- If possible refuse mechanical loading, since rigid slings are capable of deforming some materials. Use soft slings or the manual method.
- Don't forget about drainage. It is necessary to decide in advance whether the internal drain will be designed or external. The design of the roof directly depends on this. For example, choosing a flat option, you need to make a small slope to the outer edges with an open gutter system or a small depression in the center with internal water drainage.
- When working with each of the finishing materials its specificity must be taken into account. For example, metal tiles or corrugated boards are attached to the roof with dowels in places where the wave deflects, while soft materials can be attached anywhere.
- All laying work is done from top to bottom. This applies to both the reinforcing layer and the finish. It is necessary to attach one sheet at a time, they are also transported up one by one.
- Finishing the ridge is done last. The material here must be overlapped to avoid moisture penetration in the future. It is the ridge connections that are the most vulnerable place for water.
Sequence of work
It should be remembered that everything starts with design. It is the plan that is the fundamental condition that allows you to rebuild a truly high-quality and beautiful roof in the future. So, it is necessary to clarify the dimensions of the roof, its height, the presence of windows, as well as the orientation of the roof. Remember that the orientation in relation to the cardinal points is chosen depending on the prevailing wind direction. The project must be drawn up according to all the rules, so that in the future you can avoid unpleasant surprises in the process of both construction and operation.
If necessary, before starting work, it is necessary to install a reinforcing belt. It will slightly strengthen the walls and Mauerlat, thereby removing part of the load from them, and it will be possible to choose a heavier roof.
Reinforcement is relevant for not the most durable houses, for example, frame houses.
Check and process all available materials and tools. If something is missing, it is much easier to add to the list at the preparation stage than after the work itself has begun. Check materials for integrity and suitability. If there is any doubt about the quality, it is best to replace the part. How warm and comfortable it will be in the house largely depends on the reliability and tightness of the roof, so it is important that everything is of good quality.
After all the preparations are completed, you can proceed directly to the construction. Step by step instructions are given below.
Erection: technology
The easiest to build is a gable design. It is more often than others made by hand, without resorting to the help of professional craftsmen, so it makes sense to consider it.
Rafters can be hanging or layered. In the first case, the rafters rest against the side walls, as if serving as spacers, as a result of which the impact is enhanced. To relieve the load, the rafters are additionally interconnected by an additional beam, called a puff. This helps reduce stress.
The layered version assumes the presence of a load-bearing wall in the middle. Above it, another overlap is created, to which the side slopes lean. It turns out that the load is distributed evenly between all three walls. However, the most common case is a combined case, when part of the structure is layered, and part is hanging.
Please note that the rafter system is completely assembled on the ground, and only then it is installed in its rightful place. The rafters are attached to the Mauerlat, securely fixed (usually with metal brackets). First, the extreme elements are attached, and then the intermediate ones. After the main elements (legs) are securely installed, you can attach everything else.
Protective layers: laying order
The lining layer must be made in full accordance with the specified sequence. Failure to comply with the order leads to the fact that the roof will leak, let in heat and drafts, and the rafters will rot.
- Under the rafters there must be a high-quality vapor barrier. An ordinary vapor barrier film is suitable, which will not allow condensate to fall on the insulation and wooden parts.
- Next fit directly rafters.
- Next, put a heater. Please note that it is much more convenient to work with insulation in slabs, since it can simply be laid between the rafters without fixing it, and it will hold securely. Consider also the use of foam insulation, which is the best in terms of its heat-retaining properties.
- A layer of waterproofing is placed on the insulation. Experts recommend using a new material - a waterproofing membrane. It will protect against moisture, while not retaining the condensate formed due to the collision of hot and cold air. The membrane is attached to the rafters with battens.
- Lay on top of the lathing roofing material.
Please note that with self-assembly, the need to use high-quality materials increases many times over, so that in which case it is possible to level the consequences of minor errors. As for the insulation, pay attention to mineral wool, but do not use glass wool if a living room is planned under the roof.
Finish coat
A huge variety of materials can be used as a finishing roofing. Today, there are many forms and types: some are suitable for warm climates, others for more severe ones; some can be mounted manually, for others you will definitely need to use special equipment. However, each of the popular options has its own individual advantages and disadvantages.
All materials for roofing are divided into two large types: soft and hard. In the first case, they are easy to bend, adjusting to the desired shape. In the second case, the material is made in the form of panels, which are subsequently lifted one by one and mounted on the roof in their original form. Both of them can be cut, only for soft materials they use a construction knife, and for hard ones - a hacksaw.
Before you cover the roof, you need to decide which type is most suitable for you. Keep in mind that when working alone it is best to use soft varieties, while pair or team work allows you to easily transport large panels to the top without damaging them. In both the first and second cases, it is better to prefer machine transportation: there is less risk of accidentally damaging the sheet, dropping it, or splitting it. We remind you once again that it is better to choose soft cables, as they will not press on the roof slabs and will not scratch them.
Types of roofing materials
As mentioned above, roofing materials are divided into two broad categories. The most common is shingles, which are soft materials. A big plus of this option is that it is suitable for all types of roofs, including even complex and cone-shaped ones. When laying, you will not need any professional tools - you can get by with the set of tools that every owner has.
With regard to performance, soft bituminous tiles have established themselves as a reliable material that can withstand pressure drops, exposure to precipitation and sunlight, and also has excellent decorative properties.
Slate is popular among sheet materials. Despite the fact that it is fragile and easily cracks under strong impacts, it withstands environmental influences perfectly. It is also important that slate is quite inexpensive, so it is chosen when building country houses or with a limited budget. It should be borne in mind that the heat and sound insulation qualities of slate leave much to be desired, therefore, if possible, for a house in which they will live year-round, it is better to choose a more modern analogue.
Finally, the most worthy and at the same time expensive material is a metal tile. She greatly wins against the background of others in terms of aesthetic indicators. Such a roof will look expensive and presentable, while the material will not lose its properties for many years. A metal tile can last about fifteen years, while maintaining its original appearance. Unfortunately, there is one drawback here - poor sound insulation, so it is advisable to take care of this additionally.
Mounting methods
It would seem that the finish coating can only be attached with dowels or self-tapping screws, but in reality it turns out that these methods have to be abandoned. This is especially true for soft roofs. So, soft roofing materials are usually fastened by the fusing method, also called the hot method. This approach ensures complete tightness, but many problems arise in the process.
For example, environmental conditions are a common cause of poor attachment, such as being too humid, too hot, or too windy. It is also important what characteristics the roofing material itself has.
To ensure the maximum quality of work, they are carried out mechanically.
When choosing a screw fastening, care must be taken to guarantee tightness at the puncture points. To do this, use specialized grout. Some particularly resourceful owners choose mounting foam, but professionals strongly do not recommend sticking to this method, since the foam is absolutely not intended for this, and the roof will leak soon.
Regardless of which method you choose, pay attention to the uniformity of fixing materials: with the hot method, the seams should be even and beautiful, and when using screws, each of them must be carefully sealed. Such precautions will save you from an early repair.
Decking
The professional flooring is sheet material. With its wavy structure, it looks like slate, but this is where all the similarities end. The professional flooring belongs to metal materials. The sheet is fully processed, pasted over with a variety of layers that prevent the occurrence of corrosion.
For roofing, special corrugated sheets are used, which are a modern analogue of iron roofs so popular in the past. Separately, it should be noted that corrugated board is ideal for pitched roofs, but for complex round structures it is undesirable to use it.
The material has both its advantages and disadvantages, which should be discussed in more detail. It should be noted in advance that there are many more advantages.
Advantages and disadvantages
The main reason why many choose corrugated board is its cost. It is quite low in comparison with analogues, however, corrugated board is not inferior in terms of operational properties. Another plus is the abundance of color solutions: in the product line you can find almost any shade. The most popular are brown, dark green, burgundy, gray. The corrugated roof does not burn, does not emit toxic substances into the atmosphere, which is why it is considered environmentally friendly. The service life is also impressive: such a roof can last up to 50 years, depending on the class of the material.
As for the shortcomings, they are few. Many are alarmed by the simplicity of the material: it does not seem particularly interesting.
Another drawback is poor sound insulation: rain drumming on such a roof will spread like thunder throughout the house - you will need to spend additional funds on insulation and soundproofing work.
Characteristics and features
The arrangement of the roof of corrugated board takes very little time and effort. No wonder this material is considered one of the easiest to install. To carry out the installation correctly, you need to remember some of the nuances:
- It is best to select sheets of corrugated board that fully match the size of the roof slope. Then it will be possible to close it without resorting to joining elements.
- If it was not possible to select panels according to the size of the slope, they resort to joining short elements: the sheets are overlapped by 15–20 cm, fastening them with self-tapping screws at each such joint. Silicone sealant is suitable for insulation.
In this article I will try to describe in detail how a gable is being built. This form is practically the simplest, suitable for a private house and its construction, from the point of view of monetary costs, is more profitable compared to other more complex roof configurations.
- in the second case, the rafters lie on the floor beams of the floor below. A gable roof made according to this option will be described here.
Let's take a brick box at home as an example. Its dimensions are 8x8 meters, height 3 meters. Do-it-yourself construction of any roof begins with the installation of a maurlat (Fig. 1). Methods for attaching it to the walls were described in the article, which you can read.
Mauerlat is installed flush with the inner surface of the walls. Outside, it must be bricked up so that it cannot be seen. At the same time, the upper surface of the Mauerlat should be 2-3 cm higher than the upper surface of the facing brick, so that the entire load from the roof is transferred only to the Mauerlat. No need to load .
Next, install the floor beams. We do this in the sequence indicated in Fig. 2. First of all, we put the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4. Their removal determines the width of the eaves. We usually take it from 40 to 50 cm at the request of the customer. As beams, we use a beam, the section of which is determined by making a simple calculation described in detail. In our case, it will be a beam of 100x200 mm.
After fixing the extreme floor beams, we stretch the cord along the upper plane and expose the rest of the beams, if necessary, pulling up the Mauerlat under them, or vice versa, laying thin plywood (you just often order a beam 200 mm high, and they bring it from 190 to 210 mm, this is on our sawmills equipment). We choose their step taking into account the step of future rafters. When using floorboards 50x150 mm as rafters, we take a step of 60-70 cm (it is better to take 60 cm, because roofing insulation has such a width).
Having installed all the long beams, we put the short ones (Fig. 2). Their step is enough to make about 1 meter. This scheme is slightly different from what we are used to seeing in similar pictures. We came to it after the pediment tide sagged on one of our first roofs, although the tides of the tide were securely fixed. In this scheme, the possibility of sagging is completely excluded.
We fasten all beams to the Mauerlat with 150 nails, you can also use metal rafter corners and self-tapping screws. In general, the use of various fasteners for rafter connections makes it easier to work. This is especially convenient for an inexperienced person, you do not need to make complex cuts and notches. We have already talked about this in the article "".
After installing all the beams, we lay (without fixing) boards on them, you can floor, you can inches. They are needed just to walk on them calmly. In order not to clutter up the drawing, I did not show them on it. The next step is to install the ridge beam.
First of all, we set the racks from the board 50x150 mm according to the level or plumb and fasten them with the help of temporary struts. On fig. The 3 spacers are shown on only one post, again to keep the drawing clear. The step of the racks is not more than 3 meters. First we put the extreme ones, then, pulling the laces between them, we put the intermediate racks. After the construction of the entire truss truss, the intermediate racks can be removed and the living rooms can be easily made on the second floor.
The height of the racks is selected depending on what shape of the roof you want to get. I usually advise customers to take it equal to the height of the first floor along the facade (the distance from ground level to the Mauerlat). This proportion is also shown in the figures.
Having installed the racks, we put them on them and fix the ridge beam literally on a couple of screws. As it we use a board 50x200 mm (in principle, 50x150 mm is also possible).
Now we move on to the installation of rafters. First we need to make a template from a 25x150 board. To do this, we apply it to the end of the ridge beam and to the beam (Fig. 4) and draw two lines. Having sawed off a board on them, we get a rafter template.
Of course, it is very good when the foot of the house is laid out with high geometric accuracy and floor beams are also installed. Then we can cut all the rafters at once according to the template and install them calmly. But to be honest, this is quite difficult to achieve, and even more difficult when a new roof is being made on an old house.
In this case, we first make only the top notch at the rafter according to the template. Then we take the resulting workpiece, apply it to the desired beam and mark the bottom gash, as they say in place. All rafters are installed in this way (Fig. 5). Please note that having installed one rafter, we immediately put the opposite one in order to quickly remove the lateral load on the ridge beam (otherwise it will bend it).
When the length of the roof slope is large and the standard 6-meter board is not enough, there are two ways to go. The first (I think it is preferable) is to order longer boards at the sawmill. Of course it will cost more. For example, at the end of autumn 2012, we had 1 cube of 6-meter boards cost about 5,500 rubles, and 1 cube of boards 7.5 meters long cost 7,000. But installing rafters is easier and faster than using the second method.
According to the second method, you need to splice two boards. This can be done by sewing on them a piece of board of the same section with a length of 1.5 - 2 meters. See the figure for how this is done. The joint is best done at the bottom, and under it it is necessary to install an additional rack.
We attach the rafter to the ridge beam with two or three nails. For fastening to the floor beam, we have recently been using metal mounting plates and self-tapping screws and adding a couple of nails. Sometimes we use brackets. By the way, I have seen many times how people use staples, but they do it wrong. The bracket must work in tension. Below on the left photo - how not to do it, on the right - how to do it.
Having strengthened the truss truss, we begin to deal with gables. First, we put additional racks, which will be the gable frame (Fig. 7). The accuracy of the installation is controlled by a cord stretched along the bottom of the rafters. Then we make a window opening (Fig. 8). You can make it any size and configuration you like. Please note that in the figure, the stand in the center of the window (supporting the ridge beam at the beginning) was simply cut. It no longer bears almost any load. Having finished with the frame, we sheathe the pediment with an inch (for example, 25x150 mm) (Fig. 9).
The next step is filing the cornice boards around the entire perimeter of the house. The frontal board (sewn to the ends of the floor beams) is made from a board 25x200 mm. We hem two belts from the board 25x100 from below to the cornices (Fig. 10). They are more than enough to fix the soffit in the exterior.
Now, if we are going to mount the drainage system and use metal holders for the gutters, they need to be installed on the stops right now (under the waterproofing film). Moreover, it is also desirable to sheathe the frontal boards with siding at this stage. Then it will not be very convenient to do this. I didn't show it in the picture. In addition, we now only use plastic gutter holders that are attached directly to the front board. It is more convenient with them and you can put them after the roof is assembled.
Next, we proceed to the crate. First of all, using a construction stapler, we fix the first strip of waterproofing film on the rafters (Fig. 11). It is more convenient to work if scaffolding is already installed around the perimeter of the house. In any case, you will have to put them when you make a roof, drain, sheathe the cornices with siding.
Having fixed the film, we nail the slats of the counter-lattice (25x50 mm) to the rafters. The need to use a counter-lattice is described in detail here: . Do not forget to leave room for the overlap of the subsequent waterproofing strip.
Then we make a crate. Now I will not focus on the rules for its installation. This topic is for a separate article. In addition, instructions are attached to any roof covering, which describes in detail how to make a crate specifically for this material (the figures schematically show a crate for a metal tile). I will try to prepare a new article on this topic in the near future.
In this way we cover the entire roof (Fig. 12). After that, it remains only to make a gable overhang and a gable ebb. The sequence here is:
To the protruding ends of the lathing with self-tapping screws, we hem the wind board of the gable overhang (25x150 mm) from below (Fig. 13);
We insert and fix the filly of the gable overhang with self-tapping screws (board 25x150). The distance between them is about 1 meter (Fig. 14);
We sew two belts to the fillies from below (board 25x100). They are also enough to subsequently sheathe the gable overhangs with siding (Fig. 15);
From pieces of the board 50x150 of the required length, we prepare triangular fillies for the gable ebb according to the figure (Fig. 16). Then, fixing them on the takeaways, we also nail two belts (25x100) to them.
This completes our roof. What happened in the end and what happens after the roofing work and sheathing of the gable and cornices with siding is approximately shown in Figures 17 and 18.
Roof design begins with the collection of loads. It is necessary to calculate the total weight of one square meter of the entire roof structure. To do this, you must first draw the drawings of the roof and calculate the snow and wind load according to the area where construction is underway.
In order to correctly collect the load, you need to know the specific gravity of all materials that are used for the construction of the roof, from the type of wood to the type of insulation and outer coating. These data are necessary for the correct selection of the pitch of the rafter legs. The greater the load, the smaller the distance should be between the rafters.
The maximum distance that is allowed between the rafters should not exceed 1200 mm. The optimal distance is one meter. Next, you should choose the cross section of the beam.
To calculate the roof structure, there is a special algorithm from a variety of formulas, but all of them are intended only for analyzing the construction of large industrial buildings. For private construction, the process of selecting a section can be simplified.
The height of the beam is calculated from the maximum length of the rafter leg. 1/20 of the length will be the optimal beam height. But 1/3 of the resulting height - this will be the required width of the timber. The result is a robust system that can withstand heavy loads.
In a wooden house, the upper strapping beam for a frame house will serve as a support for the rafters. In a brick house, along the upper edge of the masonry, it is necessary to install a Mauerlat - a horizontal powerful bar that is attached to the wall with crutches.
A do-it-yourself roof is built in a few days, if you plan the whole process correctly. At the junction of two different materials, for example, brick and wood, it is always necessary to lay waterproofing. Instructions for the construction of the roof begins with the correct laying of the supporting beams. Then inclined rafters are installed at an angle, which is provided for in the project.
To fix the rafters, slopes and strapping boards are installed as part of the crate. The fastening of all rafters into a single structure makes a wooden roof stable. At this stage, it is important to accurately align the position of the rafter legs, they must be in the same plane, strictly in the correct design position.
After fixing the rafter legs, a crate is stuffed, which is a series of boards with a certain step, then the final coating will be attached to them. If the roof is provided from soft materials, the crate is made of a solid type from plywood sheets. In all other cases, it is enough to nail the elements of the crate at a certain distance from each other.
After that, protective materials (insulation and vapor barrier) are laid and the final roofing is installed. In some cases, insulation is done inside the structure after the installation of the roofing material. The rafter roof must be ventilated to ensure a normal microclimate for structures and their durability.
Any work can be divided into stages. So, do-it-yourself roof step by step.
First step. Make a calculation of the roof, collect the load, determine the cross section of the beam, its length. Be sure to summarize all the data in the material consumption specification.
Second step. Prepare all the necessary tools, purchase material, prepare a place for storage. Consider a mechanism for feeding heavy structures to the roof. On the day of work, you may need to hire a truck crane.
Third step. Prepare the surface for work. Start installing the power plate, strapping beam and rafter legs. Carefully check the design position of the rafters. At the end of the working day, make sure that the working structure is securely fastened.
Fourth step. Submission of batten boards. Fastening the battens and laying protective materials under the roof. At this stage, you will have to do a lot of cutting work. It is difficult and long to work with a hacksaw, so you need to rent a parquet or jigsaw.
Fifth step. Installation of roofing material, checking joints. Here, after the installation work is completed, the box can be hemmed to exclude wind pressure from the side of the wall under the coating structure.
A gable sloping roof significantly improves the functionality of the attic space. A conventional gable roof creates a dead space with an inclined plane in which one cannot stand in full height.
A gable sloping roof expands the space due to the special design of the kink of the inclined plane. Thus, a full-fledged interior space is obtained, which can be equipped as a bedroom.
According to the drawings, such a roof of the house is built by installing strictly vertical racks and horizontal puffs, and hanging and layered rafters are lined up on the sides of the impromptu rectangle. To provide the structure with the necessary strength, struts are installed from the floor beam to the middle of the layered rafters.
All other work is performed similarly to the scheme described above. The main difficulty in building a gable sloping roof structure is to choose the right cross-section of the beam and install all the elements according to the drawing. In most cases, insulation and vapor barrier are added to the roofing cake. This greatly complicates the process of installing a rafter roof, but without these elements it makes no sense to make an attic room.
For a private house, it is preferable to choose a pitched roof with a slope of more than 2.5%. The simplest option is a shed roof, but this is used only on utility-type structures. The design of the character is one flat, sloping roof plane that rests on the two side walls of the building.
A gable roof is considered universal, which rests on two outer walls at the same level, and the inclined planes converge in the middle into one ridge knot. The end part of such a roof is called a gable and is usually sealed with the same material from which the load-bearing part of the house is built.
The hip roof is a hipped roof without a gable. On all sides of the building, the roof is reduced from the upper edge of the wall upwards. Such a roof is better than others adapted to perceive wind and snow loads, but it is quite difficult to build. All nodes of the roof frame must be built in compliance with the complex laws of the statics of structures.
A hipped roof looks something like a hip roof, but its main difference is that all four roof planes are strictly triangular in shape. As a result, from the center of the building, the inclined planes diverge in four directions, forming a tent.
A broken or mansard roof is the creation of broken roof planes at an obtuse angle. The result is a rather voluminous attic-type room, which can be used as a residential one.
All types of roofs have their advantages and disadvantages. Some look better, but require significant construction costs, others are easy to build, but also unpresentable in appearance. Roof selection is usually made after determining the snow and wind area. It is important to agree on the type of roof at the design stage.
In fact, the construction of the roof of a frame house is no different from the construction of a roof for other types of buildings. The only point concerns the fixing of the rafter legs on the supporting structures. Here, instead of a Mauerlat, a strapping beam is used.
All other methods are similar. For the convenience of construction, before starting it is necessary to build a raised floor or mount a full-fledged wooden floor. Installing rafters from scaffolds is inconvenient and time consuming.
For a frame house, it is recommended to choose the least massive roof structure, so that it does not create critical pressure on the supporting elements. Do not build on additional elements on the roof, including dormer windows, if they are not provided in advance in the project.
Roof with your own hands. Design
Depending on the roof structure, the amount of materials and the cross section of the support bars should be selected. For a private house, especially a frame type, a gable and gable sloping roof is the most effective. All other structures are quite complex and require a large number of retaining elements, which significantly increase the weight of the entire roof.
For a frame house, it is better not to use natural ceramic tiles as a coating. In addition to the fact that it is very heavy, for installation you will need to fill the crate thickly. As a result, it will be necessary to additionally strengthen the supporting racks or reduce the step between them, which will lead to an overrun of materials.
The support beam serves to fasten the rafters at the bottom. It is not advisable to rest the rafters on the wall, therefore, an additional beam is used, which perceives the inclined load and transfers it to the supporting structures strictly vertically.
As a support beam, a beam of a sufficiently large section should be used. It must be firmly fixed to the wall. In the case when the roof, together with the supporting beam, simply lies on the wall, the roof can be blown up by the wind. Despite the large weight of the entire roof, it can fly away with heavy gusts of wind.
Is it possible to equip a wooden roof with your own hands? How to build it, and how long it will be used - we will tell you later in the article.
Wooden roof construction
When both the walls and the roof of the building are made of the same material, the appearance of such a building is unique.
Wood is one of the oldest building materials that mankind began to use; it is not for nothing that one of the very first roofing was wooden. Thousands of years have passed since then, and people have not only not stopped actively using wood for roofing, on the contrary, in recent times, they have begun to use it more and more often. During this time, however, do-it-yourself wooden roofs have turned from the simplest and most inexpensive into rather costly and complex types of roofing. Only the assertion has not changed that the roofing, erected in accordance with modern requirements for roofing and using modern materials, will serve for tens (and sometimes hundreds) of years, and will make the house stand out with its original appearance.
For the arrangement of a wooden roof used:
- Shingles - a thin, uncalibrated board, chipped off from a whole tree trunk - alder, spruce or aspen.
- Tes - coniferous edged boards, on the edges of which a sample is sometimes made.
- Shingle - sawn small boards, with side joints (groove-thorn type).
- Shindel - an irregularly shaped board, small, chipped, sometimes it is called "wooden tile".
- Chips - the same boards as shingles, but shorter.
- Ploughshare - they resemble a shingle, but with more curved planks (pyramidal or in the form of a shoulder blade), the lower cut is sometimes figured.
It is important to consider that wooden roofs come only with slopes with a slope in the range from 18 to 90%. And the greater the slope, the longer the life of the roof, but also the greater the consumption of wood.
How to make a wooden roof with your own hands
A wooden roof with your own hands can be built from different types of wooden materials. At the same time, all these materials differ significantly, and most of them allow the use of several options for the roof truss structure.
There are the following types of wooden roofs: 3 variants of boarded roofing - lap, staggered, 2-layer overlap, shingle and chip roofs.
Shingled - one of the most difficult wooden roofs to build with your own hands - without sufficient experience in the construction of such roofs, you should not even try to mount it.
This coating is boards 40-70x10-15 cm, which are most often pricked by hand, and less often they are sawn.
The latter type of shingle has a rough surface that absorbs moisture well (more intense than chipped). The split shingle retains the entire structure of the wood fibers well.
At the shingle board, one of the longitudinal, longer sides is squeezed under a wedge with a thickness of 0.3-0.5 cm, and on the other side, the thickness of which is 1.0-1.2 cm, a groove is made with a wedge 1.0- 1.2 cm. At the beginning of the wedge, the width of the plank is 0.5 cm, and narrows towards the end to 0.3 mm.
Shingles are made from different types of wood - coniferous, aspen or oak. The shingle roofing is laid on top of the lathing, made of beams 4x4, 5x5 cm, poles or on a solid boardwalk.
The step of the elements of the crate is equal to 1/3 of the length of the shingle boards. In the shingle rows, the grooves are horizontally turned to one side, and the narrow part of the shingle board goes into the groove of the adjacent shingle.
The edge of each shingle from above, after laying in its place, is nailed to the crate.
For some types of wood materials, different nails are used: copper - for wooden elements made of cedar or larch, as they are most suitable for them in color, for all other types of wood - galvanized.
Shingles are placed on the roof of outbuildings, gables of any roof or gazebos - in 2 layers, on the roofs of residential buildings - in 3 rows, and very rarely, to increase reliability - in 4 layers.
Laying in layers of boards is carried out in such a way that each subsequent row covers 1/2 of the previous one - with 2 layers, 2/3 - with 3 layers, and ¾ - with 4 layers.
The upper part of the shingle, nailed to the lathing beams, is slightly touched, which reduces the thickness of the roofing. The rows are spaced apart, when the edge of the shingle of the row at the top fits to the middle of the shingle of the row below.
Concave roofing joints (or grooves) are laid in the form of a fan, shingles for this from the narrow side are reduced to the bottom by the required angle so that the plank is trapezoidal.
Before installation, the shingles undergo antiseptic treatment and, of course, impregnation with a fire-fighting compound (flame retardant).
Roofs from a shingle and plowshare are erected similarly to a shingle roof. The difference between both types of do-it-yourself roofing is the shorter elements - 20-40 cm, so under them you need to make the step of the crate bars smaller.
On the sidewalls of the elements of these types of roofing, there are no cutouts, cones or grooves, but they are placed end to end. However, the laying is not done tightly, there is a gap between the planks in horizontal rows - about 0.3-0.5 cm. This is done so that when the coating gets wet and swells, the roof does not warp.
Roofing tiles with such laying swell with increasing humidity, closing all openings and gaps. As the wood dries, it shrinks, again enlarging the gaps, which provide excellent ventilation of the attic space.
It is important to consider that the best wood for any wooden roof elements is larch. It has a high density, contains a lot of resin, does not rot, has a beautiful woody structure. And most importantly, it is quite cheap.
Roofing with shingles and shingles
The installation of roofing elements of the coating from wood chips and shingles is carried out with an overlap, in rows - both horizontally and vertically. Most often, such roofing is laid in 3 or 4 layers.
Laying shingles is carried out according to a scheme similar to the installation of a shingled roof: a 3-layer roof - for 2/3 of the length of the shingles, and a 4-layer one - for 3/4. The boards in the rows overlap the adjacent ones by 2.5-3.0 cm. The next row is placed in such a way that in the horizontal plane the middle of the upper element closes the joint of the 2 lower ones.
All boards are fixed with a galvanized nail (size 7x0.15 cm). The ridge of the roof is sewn up with a plank corner.
Installation of chipped roofing - similar to the installation of roofing from shingles, but the length of the tiles is shorter: for shavings of 40 cm - 1 meter, 9-13 cm wide and no more than 0.5 cm thick. Chips are slightly smaller in size: length 40.0 -50.0 cm, width - 7.0-12 cm and thickness 0.3 cm.
Therefore, under the chips, a crate is needed with a smaller step of the bars than that of the shavings - after 15 cm, and for the shavings it can be 30 cm. Most often, for this type of roofing, a solid flooring is laid instead of a crate.
Drape and wood chips are one of the easiest coatings for arranging a wooden roof with your own hands, so you can build a crate for them from bars with a section of 4x4 cm.
plank roof
One of the simplest and cheapest in the construction of wooden roofs with your own hands from all other roofing wooden coverings is a plank roof. However, there is a downside - the service life of this roof is the shortest.
Previously, plank roof boards were hewn by hand, by splitting a whole tree trunk along the entire length. The fracture, at the same time, occurred along the wood fibers, which made it possible to preserve all the properties of the wood material. Therefore, such a roofing served for a hundred years and even more. Such longevity should not be expected from modern sawn boards, since the natural structure of wood is violated during sawing. After such treatment, it resists different weather worse.
Plank roofing is laid either longitudinally (elements are mounted parallel to the direction of the pitched plane) or transversely (boards are placed parallel to the ridge).
The cross-laying method is simple and only applies to temporary buildings. Tesa boards are laid from bottom to top directly on the logs, while any subsequent row covers the previous one by 5 cm. To each lag, the plank board is attached with one nail.
Longitudinal laying has 3 mounting options:
- end-to-end in 2 layers - the boards are placed with an offset of the upper row relative to the row below by half the board, with a distance (for drying) between the boards in rows of 0.5 cm;
- along the pitched plane staggered - a row of boards at the bottom is placed with a 0.5 cm gap between the boards, and the top row covers adjacent boards by 0.5 cm
- with a cover of the lower row with a flashing - the rows of boards from the bottom of the roof are placed solid, and the gaps are closed with less wide boards, and also, the boards of the lower layer are overlapped by 5 cm.
In any of the 3 options for the longitudinal laying of the board, the top row of boards is nailed to the crate with 2 nails. The distance between the elements of the crate is 60-80 cm. The thickness of the boards is 1.9-2.5 cm, the bars are 6x6 cm.
Most often, steam and waterproofing is not placed under a wooden roof, since wooden structures do not form condensate in the attic due to reduced thermal conductivity, however, preventing free ventilation of the coating can quickly ruin it.
Importantly, for thousands of years, mankind has improved its skills in the construction of various types of roofs, and wooden roofs are popular, despite the emergence of new roofing materials.
