Wooden scaffolding with their own hands. Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood. Nails or screws

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photo, video. At the stage of construction, repair work and maintenance of a private house, sometimes you have to work at height. With the help of a conventional ladder, it is not always convenient to carry out work, and sometimes it is completely impossible.

The way out of this situation will be scaffolding with your own hands.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, as it is cheaper. Everyone can work with wood, and all you need is nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, or a hammer. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone's house, and if something is not there, it will not take a lot of money to buy the right tool.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, as well as a welding machine and at least a basic understanding of how to properly weld seams. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases forests are made of wood.

materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short time, but the manufacture requires the use of high quality wood and with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

Scaffolding can also be made from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go to the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to add two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. A board is laid on the posts, and then they stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak points, it will crack or even break. If it lasts, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the boards for scaffolding should be chosen according to what the structure will be, the distance between the racks and the expected load. The only thing to note is that boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used for flooring and racks, and boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm are most often used for jibs. Such boards can also be used after dismantling scaffolding in construction works, if you can not damage it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, in 100 years there will be disputes about what is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case, everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at a height and therefore the design must be reliable. In this case, nails would be the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

Unlike them, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding, because there are cases when they broke. But it was about the "black" screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you are seriously concerned about reliability, it is better to use nails to make scaffolding with your own hands. But they are not loved because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the connection without loss and quickly, as the wood will be damaged.

When working independently, do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each joint. In order to prevent damage to the wood in the future, trimmings of thin boards can be placed under the nails, and whole boards can be used over a long span, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you will be able to split them and easily remove the nails.

Design features

For different types of work, scaffolds and scaffolding of different types will be required. For work with light weight materials, high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make side scaffolds or a structure in the form of an envelope. For finishing the gables or just the exterior of a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction goats, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If nothing can be supported on the walls, goats with floorboards laid on the crossbars can be used.

For laying brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick, full-fledged scaffolding will be required. Wood scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on the stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolds

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not attached. They are held in place by an emphasis. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter "G", but they are deployed in different directions.

The first figure shows a reliable and simple scaffold design. Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from a bar. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can withstand a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second drawing shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although at first glance you can’t tell. But still it is verified by thousands of people who used them in construction. It is attractive that a minimum amount of building materials is required, and assembly / disassembly / transportation can be done in a few minutes. The main thing is the manufacture of triangles, and installation at the right height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

In order to make triangles, a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm is used. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffold to the required height for it. The crossbeam on top should be between 0.8 and 1 meter long, and the floorboards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and wide - the more the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal pads in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner with three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Installation of triangles is made for each meter. If it works out, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground, and the other on the upper part of the triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or section (for profiled pipes at least 5 * 4 cm). During the installation of the stop, it should be placed exactly in a corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be fixed with several jibs that will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if any, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you want to grow the thrust boards (to be more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional emphasis. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby remove part of the load. Now about do-it-yourself scaffolding flooring. It must be made from a wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, it is required to fix them to the triangles at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest fluctuations underfoot will cause discomfort, so it is highly desirable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if the use of heavy materials is not expected. It is not always possible to lean the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement, you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm, and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams that are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them proceed from the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on the flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper upward.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with a release of 25 cm. They will not allow the structure to collapse. Racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use to make the flooring so that they do not sag. Installed racks at the right distance should be fastened with slopes between them. So they will not allow the structure to fold to the side. The more you make jibs and crossbars, the more reliable the design will be.

Also, so that self-made scaffolding does not fall, they should be supported with timber or boards, and one end should be nailed to the racks with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. The cross beams will not allow the structure to fold to the side, but there is a possibility that without securing the scaffolding will fall forward. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, you can not support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitude. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks and knots. Handrails will give confidence during construction.

Standard 6 meters are enough to the floor level of the second floor. But such forests are inconvenient in that they have to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can build scaffolding from sturdy old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - everything that can be found on the farm.

Construction goats

There is another simple way to make mobile light scaffolding with your own hands - to make the same goats, on which the crossbars are stuffed with a certain step, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Floor boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for sheathing a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and it is necessary to change the height all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction goats would be the best option.

Sometimes they make one rack on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This is an excellent option for painting, caulking and preventive treatment.

Varieties and knots of metal scaffolding

When building a stone house, or a building made of building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures, as they are more expensive. The second decisive moment is the analysis of the construction wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be put into action, and the metal parts will gather dust in the shed.

But metal scaffolding also has a lot of advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to take care of a log house, for example, which means that once every 2-3 years they will definitely be needed. In this regard, a metal structure will be more practical than a wooden one, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All scaffolding made of metal have the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work that you are going to carry out will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin ones are most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but not good only for

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction has been prepared for you. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and designs in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at heights.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which serves for lifting and working at height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements apply to scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
2. Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembly / disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or an entry-level specialist.
3. Thrift. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. It is unprofitable to purchase them for home use, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the building structure.

Standard wood scaffolding

The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming a frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Good quality edged board vertical supports. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Rack Requirements:

1. Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
2. Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board must not be broken, cracked, rotten, crooked, of variable section, with excessive wane or holes.
4. The board must not be infested with insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splicing of the racks. Elements should be butt-jointed, not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.

Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to the requirements for racks. One additional requirement: the use of spliced ​​cross members without additional support is unacceptable.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross bars. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - board guides, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and run-up is allowed.

Braces. Diagonal links connecting racks of different rows. It is allowed to use rails, slabs. It is advisable to install braces of maximum length in order to connect the largest number of racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to avoid deflection from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set of general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from the requirements of safety and the experience of high-altitude masters:

1. The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
3. For each node - at least 3 attachment points. With multi-point mounting - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Use powerful self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the back side.
5. Always install railings on the inside of the rack.
6. Use a frontal board (fence at the flooring).
7. Racks at the interface must be trimmed.
8. The spacing of the posts is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.

Scaffold assembly

To create a wooden scaffold structure, you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and get the number of racks.
2. We collect the "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a cross bar.

Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90°. Skews can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a diagonal.
2. We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
3. Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at the maximum height so that they stand without support.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Place the deck board on the cross members and fix it. Reinforce bracing.
6. Fix the flooring on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the rest of the "envelopes" and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or flooring sheets must fall on the crossbar!

1. Install handrail and front board.
2. If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then connect the edge of this board with the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - the dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for wooden scaffolding

Steel Crossbar - Bracket

This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross section of the board.

triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows the scaffold to be attached directly to the wall. For a flooring device based on it, several boards for a ladder are enough. But at the same time, for rearrangement, you have to dismantle it. Mounting something from the bottom up is not possible. The most dangerous type of high-altitude scaffolding. When working, special skill and caution are required.

Bricklayer Express Scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while they are quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant, and sometimes serious consequences.

If you have a need to perform work on the facade, you need to do without scaffolding.

They are temporary structures, they are metal structures that are used in construction, finishing and restoration work on buildings and structures. The advantages of these structures are that their installation and dismantling is carried out directly on construction sites. If necessary, the structure can be easily moved along the wall. In addition, building scaffolds are a convenient structure for temporary use, being on which you can perform work related to the facade: insulation, finishing, painting. You can perform minor work on the restoration of wooden window frames, make slopes of window openings.

Not only professional builders, but also many ordinary summer residents, as well as owners of private houses and country cottages, need to purchase scaffolding with removable flooring (scaffolding) - after all, when it becomes necessary to tint the roof gables or update the facade decoration of the house, more than just a ladder may be required or a stepladder, but something more serious.

Scaffolding on "envelopes" has recently become quite a popular design option that you can make yourself. As you can see in the photos below, these scaffolds have a wide range of applications, from masonry production to finishing work. Due to the simplicity and cheapness of their design, it is easy to organize paving at the desired height and perform painting, whitewashing, surface restoration, window cleaning, installation of slopes and trim, etc.

Why is this option popular among builders?

The main advantage is that the scaffolding can be made independently. At the same time, not much building material is spent at all. Well, plus everything: simplicity and ease of assembly / disassembly of the structure. After completing the work, they disassemble and fold until better times in a secluded corner of the barn.

What are scaffolding with "envelopes" made of?

"Envelope" is a scaffolding, which is a support platform in the form of a triangle. Supports are made from various lumber that is on the construction site, for example, edged boards. The main thing is that the board is strong, with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. (see fig. 1).

Rice. 1, Supporting platform - "envelope". 1 - L-shaped bracket; 2 - jibs.

Then, it is necessary to build L-shaped brackets - the boards are knocked down, after which they are sheathed on the sides with wooden slats.

The dimensions of the site must be constructed based on the safe operation of the structure. On the support platform, it is not large in size, it is quite inconvenient to work, and besides, you will often have to move it. Having made scaffolds of a large area, you can expose yourself to a traumatic situation, there is a possibility of envelopes tearing off the wall. Taking this into account, the size of the platform must be calculated in this way: the size of a human leg is on average 350-400 mm, taking this size of the horizontal platforms of the scaffold, a person can become a full foot, while not being afraid to fall from a height.

Now that the platform is ready, the support platform is fixed, it remains to set it to the desired height so that you can reach the required level. You will also need a couple of supports, it is quite possible to use a 150x50 mm edged board. Before installing them, the supports must be made sharp at the base so that they rest against the ground, and the upper ends along the contour of the "envelope" cornerslightly beveled for a tight fit, as shown in Figure 2.

Rice. 2 Installation of scaffolds: 1 - prop-slightly; 2 - "envelope"; 3 - flooring boards; 4 - supporting surface.

Then, after the flooring from the "envelopes" is raised to the required height, it must be fixed. The vertical part of the L-bracket should be nailed to the wall with ordinary long nails. It is advisable not to hammer the nails all the way, otherwise it will be difficult to pull them out during dismantling.

Now you can lift and install the flooring itself. The boards are laid at the desired height and nailed to the horizontal shelf of the brackets. Nails in these places can be driven completely into the boards, this will make the structure more durable.

Advice: to make it easier to get the nails, they can be driven into the boards through thin spacer rails; when dismantled, they are simply split with a nail puller.

!Attention Be careful when working at height. Follow the safety precautions for. Remember that when making your own construction scaffolding, it is necessary to check the strength of each of the structural nodes.

It is difficult to carry out construction work without loess, especially if it is necessary to carry out them at high altitude. The design will help to safely climb the hill, do everything you need, put nearby materials that will help in business. It is inconvenient to rent building loess from a profile pipe, as it will constantly draw money, which some may not like. Alternatively, loess can be made by hand. They will be made as convenient for the owner, will provide the opportunity to climb to the desired height.

Types of loess

There are several types of loess that you can do yourself. Metal pipes are suitable for manufacturing, you can add boards to the design. If you make everything from wood, it will turn out much cheaper than metal ones. But such installations will not be able to withstand a significant load, there is a possibility of a break with a large weight installed on them.

In time, the metal frame will take longer, but gradually the costs of its manufacture will be covered by a reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled, rebuilt. In addition to wood, there are other types of loess:

1. Clamp. Priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. It is problematic to assemble such products, but there is an option to bend them, as required by the need.

2. Wedge. You can put a lot of weight on them.

3. Pin. They are easy enough to assemble and disassemble. They will go for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.

4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness, ease of assembly. You can collect them very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg per meter of the base surface. In construction, they are most often used, because it is not difficult to make them with your own hands.

Important:do-it-yourself building loess made from a profile pipe, should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended to stand on them together.

Making loess

Making loess from pipes is not difficult at all. To do this, you need to select the required elements, connect them in the correct sequence. To make the work go faster, it is recommended to purchase and prepare the required parts in advance. After that, you will only need to do certain actions with them and combine them into one design.

Materials for the manufacture of loess

To make loess, the drawings of which are given in the material, you need steel racks and frames. The footrest is made from boards. It can be made of aluminum, but it will be possible to withstand a smaller load. The recommended height of one section is 150 cm, it is most convenient to do about a meter in width. The length will be 1.5-2 meters. In height, it is necessary to make scaffolding depending on the height of the house.

Before starting the assembly of the structure, it is necessary to purchase materials for manufacturing. You will need:

1. Profiles with a length of 1.5 m and a section of 3x3 cm. They are suitable for making vertical edges.
2. Pipes with a diameter of 15 mm, which will serve for the construction of spacers.
3. Profile for connecting elements. The section is 2.5x2.5 cm. The flooring will be supported on these elements.
4. Stairs. You can insert the finished one, but if not, you can also execute it from the profile.
5. Bolts, nuts and washers that will secure each element. Self-tapping screws to connect the wooden parts with them.

For work, you will need to use a drill, a grinder or a hacksaw for metal, welding. Connections can be made by making threads in the necessary elements. The earth at the installation site must be well compacted so that distortions do not occur during the manufacturing process. If the work takes place in the rain, you should think about making a drainage system. The ground under the loess will be strong, there will be no danger to people at a height.

It is important to remember that even minimal wobble at the joints of the parts leads to a strong inclination of the elements above and the construction may slow down due to the inability to rise to a height. Therefore, all elements must be connected reliably, efficiently.

Collection of loess

Building loess is assembled in the following order:

1. First you need to cut the blanks: the diagonal parts that fasten the structure, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened by about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.

2. 2 vertical posts are connected with spacers. They must be strictly horizontal.

3. The horizontal parts are connected with ties, at a distance of about 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.

4. The connecting parts are fixed.

5. Holes for bolts must be made on the supports.

6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. Wooden elements are connected with self-tapping screws. Diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.

It makes sense to cover the scaffolds with paint so that they last longer. If the structure is planned to be disassembled and assembled frequently, it is possible to connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of a profile 2.5x2.5 cm is inserted into them and the elements are welded.

Many people think about whether it is worth doing building loess on their own. On the one hand, this design is bulky, you will have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can just take apart the parts, but this is a long time. Wooden loess are connected only with nails, not self-tapping screws. The boards will be whole after work, they can be used in other needs.

On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height is at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.

Scaffolding is a specific thing and not always necessary. But what to do if they are so necessary, but there is nowhere to take them? Mount yourself! Before getting to work, it is important to know that scaffolding is built on the basis of a frame structure assembled from wood and steel elements. To understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands, the master must decide on their type.

Scaffold design and types

Based on the material of production, forests are divided into two types:

• metal;
• wooden.

Another criterion for dividing scaffolding into types is the method of fastening structural elements. According to this method, forests are divided into:

• frame - are considered especially strong, since their main is an all-metal frame;
• pin - parts of the structure in these scaffolds are attached to each other with a pin;
• wedge - the design of such scaffolding is connected by the wedge method;
• clamp - vertical and horizontal racks are connected by inserts according to the "pipe to pipe" method, fixed with swivel and non-swivel clamps.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding

To assemble scaffolding, which is also called a "goat" or "table", you will need the following materials:

• Nails or self-tapping screws (any, as long as there is enough length, except for rusty and bent ones, otherwise the work will turn into sheer torment);
• Boards (pallets, fences, old furniture, pieces of chipboard, plywood or wooden boards);
• Bars (any sticks, debris, pieces of metal profiles, branches from trees).

Frame manufacturing

An excellent assistant for those who assemble scaffolding with their own hands will be drawings. It is on them that it is easiest to assemble the frame. To do this, wooden stands and shoes are fixed on a pre-prepared site, if necessary, screw supports are installed. After that, frames are mounted with a certain step. Their number determines the estimated length of the structure. Along the edges, special frames with borders are installed. Ladders are mounted on the frames for the descent and ascent of workers. The entire structure is fastened with horizontal and diagonal ties. For their fixation in the frame there are special locks.

Frame assembly

The minimum safe height of the scaffold is 5-6 m, the width is 50 cm, and their recommended length is 4 m. Based on these figures, the size of the frame and the required amount of material are calculated, whose quality deserves special attention.

In particular, to create a frame, a solid beam with a width of at least 10 cm is chosen. The end strips of the structure are mounted at an acute angle. Two six-meter support beams are laid in a horizontal position. The distance between them is the width of future forests. Two more six-meter beams are laid nearby at the same distance. The upper ends of the beams should converge at a slight angle in the form of a trapezoid, this will give stability to future scaffolding.

Side racks are fixed to these beams - the support of future decking. The racks are fixed from the inside, and only three racks are used for decking, and the last one serves to strengthen the structure. There should be no more than 4 sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to build scaffolding above "four floors".

Flooring installation

Before you make scaffolding, you need to determine the requirements that they must meet. Height can be considered a defining parameter, because flooring is necessary precisely for working at a certain height.

The length of the "goat" depends solely on the size of the available materials. Of course, a table that is too short will be very inconvenient, especially at high altitude. And you need to remember that on the table, perhaps, there will be two people and a bucket of solution.

To achieve the desired width of the flooring, the required number of boards is used. However, if it is made not from boards, but from chipboard, then the increase will be difficult. As for the scaffolding erected indoors, the so-called "goats", the width of the existing doorways, as well as the presence of other furniture, will become an important point. After all, the "goat" will need to be moved somehow.

The weight factor is one of the most important, because it is inconvenient to carry scaffolding, and heavy ones even more so. To move them by dragging is once again subjecting them to undesirable physical impact. On the other hand, sacrificing height and strength is definitely not worth it.

Not only the health of the builder, but also the integrity of walls, floors, and equipment depends on the strength of scaffolding. Everything that can be nearby. However, there is no point in loading the structure with unnecessary elements. It is far from certain that they will actually add strength. Properly hammered nails, twisted screws and mounted jumpers are a guarantee of strength.

Wooden scaffolding can be considered stable if it does not wobble. And it's not just that the worker feels uncomfortable if the table wobbles. Any furniture breaks for this very reason, including scaffolding. Properly placed jumpers are the only way to achieve stability.

For flooring, wide and long boards are used, nailing them to the sidewalls. These three boards need to be spread around the edges and in the center of the deck so that it does not sag. By the way, it is more convenient to cut off the excess when the flooring is already assembled - then you will not need to measure anything. The gaps between the boards reduce the weight of the product. On the other hand, they make it possible for small objects to constantly fall to the floor.

When screwing in the screws, you need to make sure that the boards do not crack. And protruding screws are easily broken off with a hammer blow. If the nails turned out to be long, they should be bent through something round - the handle of pliers, for example. In this case, the sharp end of the nail will enter the wood from the back, giving extra strength.

Assembly of metal scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is much stronger than wood and has a longer service life. However, their manufacture takes more time and labor costs. A scaffolding scheme is usually used to calculate materials and size. Multi-level scaffolding is made of aluminum, small structures are made of steel. Steel, unlike aluminum, is more suitable for self-arrangement of scaffolding. To build metal scaffolding with your own hands, the master will need:

• round pipe with a diameter of 15 mm - the basis of future struts;
• profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - necessary for the production of racks;
• a profile pipe with a diameter of 25 - connecting jumpers are made from it;
• fastening materials for metal;
• "Bulgarian" - it grinds corners and saws pipes;
• drill and drills.

Strut preparation

Installation of metal scaffolding begins with the preparation of spacers. A 15 mm pipe is cut into two fragments of 2 meters each. Their ends are flattened. At each end of the "grinder" two longitudinal notches are made no more than 2 cm.

Then the 30 mm pipe is cut into fragments of 1.5 m each (the height of one span of scaffolding). Then, pieces of 0.70 m are cut from the same pipe, intended for jumpers between the uprights of the span. Jumpers are installed 35 cm apart. The sizes of all fragments are carefully rechecked. After all work is completed, the structure is welded into a single whole using a welding machine.

Manufacture of adapters

At a later stage, adapters between sections are mounted. To do this, a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is cut into small pieces of 25 cm, and a pipe with a diameter of 30 mm is cut into even smaller pieces of 5 cm, with their help jumpers will be fixed. A segment of 25 cm is threaded into a segment of 5 cm to its center. Then it is fixed by welding or self-tapping screws.

For further assembly of scaffolding, holes for bolts are made at the ends of the jumpers and in the racks. Jumpers are securely fastened between the uprights of the section crosswise, on both sides. Further, with the help of connecting adapters, the next floor of the structure is created.

Frame assembly

Frame metal scaffolding is able to withstand pressure of 180-200 kg per sq.m. They are made from racks and frames. Such forests are allowed to be erected to a great height - up to 45 meters. Before mounting the metal frame, first of all, they determine the location of tiers, stairs and other structural elements.

The assembly of the frame begins with the fact that on a pre-prepared site, segments of 3 m are laid, on which the support boards are laid. Metal supports are fixed on these boards, which form the basis of the initial tier. After the supports are fastened together with iron ties, the next floor is mounted. On each floor, working surfaces from boards - floorings are equipped. To climb them, the scaffolding is equipped with ladders on the sides.

Section mounting

Before arranging scaffolding, it is necessary to determine the size and location of the sections. In this case, three conditions must be met:

• the width between the racks is not more than 3 m;
• the length between the racks is not more than 4 m;
• the height between floors is not more than 2 m.

The number of sections depends on the size of the wall. The flooring sheet is fixed on the racks with metal screws or clamps. Then horizontal guides (lintels) are welded to the racks. Pipe cuts (adapters) are “put on” on the upper ends of the racks and welded. If a thin-walled pipe is used, then during assembly, its ends and middle are flattened, and holes for fasteners are made in these places.

Two diagonal strips are bolted together in the center, then they are applied to the uprights and marks the points for future holes. Diagonal strips are fixed on the racks with bolts. Then, thrust bearings are welded to the ends of the pipes - flat metal plates. After that, the structure is installed in the working position.

Flooring manufacturing

The flooring for metal scaffolding is made according to the same principle as for wood scaffolding. Floorings are made from edged boards, 40-50 mm thick, metal sheets are also used.

Scaffolding painting

When erecting scaffolding with their own hands, not everyone thinks about the need to paint them. This is not a prerequisite for their operation. However, a layer of paint will protect the metal from corrosion, and wood from getting wet and rotting, which will significantly increase the shelf life of scaffolding.