Quite often, heating boilers are used to heat private houses. Almost anyone can weld a heating boiler with their own hands, since these devices have a simple design. For the manufacture of the structure, you can use non-professional tools and materials that are available.
Some improvements can be made to the design of the boiler, which will be used for heating your own private house and cooking. Such changes can improve the efficiency of the device.
The design of the heating boiler
This equipment has a similar design with an ordinary stove. The differences are only in the way of heat transfer. The boiler consists of the following elements:
- Capacity for combustion of solid fuel.
- Grids for supplying air in the right amount.
- Water tank or tubular heating registers.
- Chimney. It is designed to create the necessary traction and removal of combustion products.
- dampers. They are used to regulate the air draft and block the channels after the fire in the stove is extinguished.
The heating system must be supplied with a water heat accumulator. It is a container that is installed in the upper part of the boiler and accumulates heat energy during the combustion process. When this process stops, the liquid will circulate in the system and heat the air.
Additionally, you can install a stainless steel tank, which will contain hot water. It is mounted above the heat accumulator. This element of the heating system is optional.
The first step is to draw up an accurate drawing of the heating boiler. In order to rationally use the living space, it is recommended to order the development of an individual project of a similar design from specialists.
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Tools and materials that will be needed for the manufacture of a heating boiler
To weld heating boilers with your own hands, you will need to prepare the following elements:
- Steel sheet with a minimum thickness of 5 mm.
- Metal corner.
- Cast iron grate.
- Water pipes made of steel of various diameters.
- Doors for bunkers.
- Throttle valves.
- Stainless steel sheet. It will be needed in order to make a heat accumulator.
- Screened sand.
In the process of manufacturing a boiler for heating, welding will be required. The following tools should be prepared:
Figure 1. Scheme of a homemade boiler.
- An inverter-type welding device or any other that can be used at home.
- Bulgarian.
- Forceps.
- Pliers.
- Electric drill.
- A set of necessary drills.
- Roulette.
- Level.
- Square.
The master must have the skills to carry out welding work.
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How to make parts of the boiler body correctly
The basis of any boiler is the furnace, in which the temperature can reach 900-1000°C. To assemble it, you will need materials that can withstand such temperatures. The sequence of actions for the manufacture of the case will be as follows:
- If heat-resistant steel is not available, ordinary steel can be used. However, in this case, in order to ensure the durability of the structure, the walls of the node must be made double. The walls must be cut from a sheet of steel using a grinder.
- From a steel pipe, it will be necessary to cut the required number of parts that will be used as stiffeners. From a metal corner, you need to make amplifiers for joints between all elements of the stove.
- A rectangular hole should be made in the front wall, which corresponds in size to the doors of all bins. To make a through rectangular hole of the desired configuration, markings must be applied to the metal, and then drilling the sheet in the corners with an electric drill. Using an angle grinder, you need to make a through cut in the middle part, and then lead it from the central part to the extreme. In this way, damage to the sheet can be avoided.
In a high-quality boiler for heating, several water tanks should be provided. Tanks should be made of stainless steel. To weld the sheets, you will need to use a special device.
The design of the heat exchanger is a set of water pipes. Using a welding device, they should be connected so that a flow path with a large outer base is formed.
In this case, the fastest and most complete heat transfer from the combustible fuel to the heat carrier will be ensured.
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How to assemble the boiler with your own hands
The design of boilers for heating is characterized by high metal consumption. Such a device will end up having a lot of weight. Therefore, assembly is recommended to be carried out at the place of installation of heating equipment.
Under the boiler, it is imperative to make a base of heat-resistant bricks.
After that, it will be necessary to lay the bottom of the ash bin on it. Along the perimeter of this element, the walls of the structure should be installed vertically. After that, the walls are connected by welding.
A diagram of a homemade boiler is shown in fig. one.
Inside the manufactured housing, it will be necessary to lay the grate on the welded guides. After that, heat exchangers are mounted. From the outside, stiffeners must be welded to the hopper in a vertical position, which are made of a rectangular steel profile. At this stage, it remains only to mount the outer walls and the top plate.
Between the walls it will be necessary to fill in the prepared sifted sand, which will perform a dual function:
- additionally accumulate heat;
- protect the walls of the combustion chamber from possible overheating and accelerated burnout.
For backfilling, it is recommended to use washed sand, which does not contain dust and other foreign elements. Previously, the sand will need to be calcined on fire in order to exclude all organic matter. If you skip this stage, then during the heating of the heating boiler, not the most pleasant smell may appear.
Prepared stainless steel containers will need to be mounted on the top plate, and then connected to the appropriate circuits. After that, it remains only to install the doors in their places.
All self-made heating boilers are based on a general principle: the fuel, burning in it, heats the heat exchanger. He is the coolant, as which the vast majority of home craftsmen choose water.
The scheme of operation of such a boiler and its appearance directly depend on two main factors: what materials are available and what kind of fuel is the cheapest in your area.
The efficiency of a homemade boiler depends on:
- The design of your heat exchanger - the larger the available area of direct thermal contact of the tank with the coolant and the furnace, the more heat the coolant receives per unit time.
- The completeness of combustion of the fuel used - if, together with the resulting combustion products, pyrolysis gas flies into the pipe, after burning it, you can significantly increase the efficiency, and the oxygen supply to the combustion site is insufficient - the design needs to be finalized.
This directly implies that it is necessary to achieve a minimum temperature of the combustion products. The lower it is, the higher the efficiency of the boiler.
The second advantage of the low temperature of the combustion products entering the chimney is the key to safe and durable operation of your boiler.
For reference: the best models of solid fuel boilers can have a specified indicator in the range from 120 to 150 degrees.
Almost all the variety of existing types of boilers, both factory-made and self-made, uses a single principle in their work, which was mentioned in the previous section.
It is implemented in two ways:
- A do-it-yourself water heating boiler can be made according to the "samovar" method. The fuel burns inside a container filled with coolant. Most often, this scheme is implemented in the manufacture of a boiler for a Russian bath.
- A home-made water heating boiler, made according to the second method, involves the passage of the coolant through the pipes of the heat exchanger (coil) through the furnace in which the fuel burns. As a variant of the same method, quite often the heat exchanger is placed immediately after the furnace at the place where the combustion products exit from it.
As a rule, preference is given to one or another option, taking into account the capabilities of the master in terms of acquiring the necessary materials.
But, in any case, we must not forget that the boiler for water heating is a device of increased danger and requires constant monitoring during operation.
Therefore, without fail, boilers for water heating at home must have in their design a valve to relieve excess pressure, a pressure gauge and a thermometer to determine the temperature of the coolant.
How to make a water heating boiler with your own hands?
The topic of “do-it-yourself water heating” is almost impossible to expand within the framework of a short review. Therefore, here are just a few recommendations. More detailed information can be found on our website and in other sources.
The most commonly used materials for the manufacture of boilers are sheet steel with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm. Heat-resistant stainless steel is, of course, better. But, having learned the price per sheet, the majority chooses the usual one.
When making a home-made water heating boiler, the master, as a rule, takes into account the existing or future method of circulation in the CO of the coolant.
If it moves by gravity (gravitational circulation), then it will be necessary to raise the water tank high enough, and use pipes of large diameters for wiring. And both on the supply and on the return.
This is due to the fact that the resistance to the movement of the coolant is inversely proportional to the diameter of the pipes. If the diameter is not large enough, then you will not be able to do without installing a circulation pump.
Home-made water heating boilers equipped with pumps have their advantages: pipes of smaller diameters are cheaper, the coolant tank can not be raised so high, and cons: if the power goes out during the operation of the system, the boiler can simply break with superheated steam. You choose.
A few recommendations that are suitable for any type of boiler you choose: heating circuits and pipes installed on a heating boiler should preferably be made from pipes with a diameter of 32 mm or more (in inches it is 1 and ¼”).
In the event of an emergency stop of the circulation pump, a rapid and sharp increase in water temperature is observed with a simultaneous decrease in the speed of its movement.
In order to avoid failure of the heating circuit, if possible, it is better to make it from galvanized pipes, and seal the connecting threads using linen tow and red lead.
Variants and schemes of designs of heating boilers
A home-made boiler for water heating is usually divided according to the types of fuel used into the following main types:
wood boilers
Boilers of these types are most in demand for self-manufacturing due to the simplicity of their design, the availability of materials and tools necessary for the manufacture of such a boiler, and the possibility of freely acquiring the required amount of firewood.
- Advantages: simplicity and versatility.
- Disadvantages - rather low efficiency. The following scheme, in this regard, is much more preferable.
The simplest version of such a boiler: a thick-walled pipe of large diameter, into which a pipe of smaller diameter is inserted, which is a firebox. The space between the pipes is filled with coolant.
Wood-burning boilers are universal. They can be heated not only with firewood, but also with almost any solid fuel. (peat briquettes, coal).
Pyrolysis boilers
In the temperature range from 200 to 800 degrees, the wood, the combustion process of which takes place with a lack of oxygen, decomposes into wood coke and pyrolysis gas.
It is worth adding to the latter a sufficient amount of atmospheric air, as it ignites with the release of heat in large quantities. This increases the efficiency of boilers of this design up to 92%.
One bookmark of fuel (firewood) for a pyrolysis boiler can last for 12 hours, while for traditional boilers this figure does not exceed 4 hours.
There are practically no solid residues. Combustion of gases easily gives in to adjustment in the automatic mode.
The disadvantage that boilers for water heating of a house of this design have is stringent requirements for fuel moisture content, not more than 30%. Otherwise, in a mixture with water vapor, the pyrolysis gas will burn poorly.
Materials for the manufacture of a boiler of this design will cost significantly more. than the first option. But the entire cost overrun will fully pay off in 2-3 heating seasons.
Waste oil boilers
The boiler is ignited, put into operation and oil begins to drip onto a special hot pan, which evaporates almost instantly.
The resulting gases, burning, heat the coolant.
Instead of oil, you can use diesel fuel.
Electric boiler
The simplest design is a heating element inside a pipe standing vertically, to which a return is supplied from below, and a supply from above. And natural water circulation.
Cons: it is forbidden to connect boilers with a rated power of more than 7 kW to 220 V networks. And 380 volts is not available everywhere.
The second option for an electric boiler is an induction boiler. This is the simplest version of a home-made boiler of a similar design: a plastic thick-walled pipe, on which at least a hundred turns of enameled wire are wound, connected to a portable welding machine with an output current of 15A.
Elements heated by eddy currents (steel wire cuttings, chopped rod, etc.) are poured into the pipe. We connect the return line from below, the supply from above, we supply water and you can turn on the power.
Materials and tools for boiler installation
The main advantage of the decision to make a water heating boiler with your own hands is that this does not require special equipment, tools and parts.
It is quite easy to find improvised raw materials and materials, and any owner of his own house has almost all the tools (drill, wrenches, screwdrivers ...).
For work you will need:
- sheet metal, or a large-diameter pipe (an option is a metal barrel, an old furnace, etc.);
- steel pipes;
- radiators (if the coolant is water), shaped pipes;
- hardware (nuts, bolts, etc.);
- dampers (you can buy, find a used one or make it yourself);
- door.
It is advisable to install the necessary minimum of automation on the boiler (sensors for monitoring and measuring temperature, for example, or a pressure gauge).
The materials used must be of proper quality (no holes, no rust, etc.).
It's a good idea to put a pump for forced movement of the coolant.
The algorithm for installing a furnace with a water heating boiler is as follows:
Determine the location of the boiler. Then we make the markup and fill the foundation.
We prepare masonry mortar for bricks. For it, you will need sand and clay in a ratio of 2: 1 (approximately, it may vary depending on the fat content of the clay). We soak the clay overnight, in the morning using a mixer (nozzle on a drill) we mix the sand-clay solution.
We lay a sheet of roofing material or other waterproofing on the finished foundation. In size, it must be at least 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the boiler.
We fill it on top with a cement screed, which we level in level.
Using ordinary ordinary red brick (not silicate), we lay out the outer contour of the future furnace. You can also put a fight inside.
We bring the walls to the level of the blower door, put a metal sheet with a slope outward, so that it is more convenient to remove the ash.
We fix the door, lay out the contour of the blower.
We install the boiler (by level), the furnace door.
Lay out the chimney.
Of all the heating equipment that is used today in everyday life, solid fuel boilers have been known for the longest time. Due to the simplicity of design and principle of operation, the availability of fuel, units of this type are widely used. Today, for many residents of private houses in rural areas, this technique has become a kind of "lifesaver". The ever-increasing price of domestic gas, the difficulties in obtaining permits for the installation of a gas autonomous heater contribute to the fact that today a solid fuel boiler, at least, has not lost its demand among the population living near forests - a source of firewood.
Solid fuel heating boilers: on the left - mounted and operating, on the right - without connection to the circuit, at the installation stage.
Today, there are two options to solve the problem of autonomous heating on solid fuel: buy a finished factory product or make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands. The cost of a modern high-tech heating unit is quite high, but the price range is wide - from 3 to several tens of thousands of rubles, which makes the device affordable to a wide range of consumers.
With a certain technical training, a solid fuel boiler can be assembled independently, using the recommendations for the manufacture of models of these devices, the most popular for do-it-yourself mounting.
Solid fuel boiler concept
A self-made autonomous solid fuel boiler is, by and large, an ordinary stove installed in a barrel of water. The main task of such a device is to heat boiler water, which will be supplied to home heating radiators, using heat from the combustion of firewood or coal.
But such a device, tempting to self-manufacture due to primitiveness, will not be effective in terms of heating and not cost-effective due to high fuel consumption - the simplest boiler designs have an efficiency of only 10-15%.
Primitive solid fuel water boiler with chimney economizer Important! The operation of a solid fuel boiler depends on the quality of the draft and, accordingly, the supply ventilation. Even a well-manufactured boiler will not be able to provide efficient space heating if the ventilation is not arranged accordingly.
Home-made boilers are assembled not only from metal, but also assembled from brick. Brick devices are usually built in country houses, where higher requirements are placed on the aesthetics of the installed equipment than in utility or technical premises.
Metal boilers are the simplest devices, the manufacture of which allows the use of improvised materials and possibly with the help of available tools. But it does not follow from this that their production and installation can be performed without, at a minimum, sketches of blanks and assemblies, as well as a well-developed technology - a sequence, methods for performing individual stages of preparatory and basic work.
Choosing the design of the heating boiler
Furnaces for heating and solid fuel boilers, with similar combustion processes, differ in functionality. A heating boiler, unlike a stove, must not only heat the room at the installation site by burning wood or coal, but also supply the heating circuit with heated coolant. But to perform the second task, it is not enough to place a heat exchanger in the furnace (section of the heating circuit) - it is also necessary to ensure the continuity of fuel combustion and uniform circulation of the coolant through this coil.
Pipe heat exchanger of a solid fuel boiler made of refractory bricks What design of the boiler to choose to make it easier to make it yourself, what difficulties will you encounter in the process of work? These questions can be answered at the design stage. Drawings of home-made solid fuel boilers give a sufficient idea of \u200b\u200bwhat this or that design looks like, and what you should pay attention to during the manufacturing process.
An example of a schematic representation of a solid fuel boiler from the outside: front, side and rear views. Each type of solid fuel boiler equipment has its own design features and manufacturing nuances. When planning an independent assembly of the heating unit, it is necessary to decide which design to give preference to - with the lower or upper (mine) method of combustion.
Units with lower combustion- this is equipment in which the door for loading firewood is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber, but the combustion of fuel occurs from below, as a result of which the upper layers of the bookmark move down under their own weight, and the afterburning of smoke occurs in the upper part. Depending on the model, the movement of air through the furnace occurs from the bottom up forcibly (fan) or naturally (draught), which leads to independence from the mains, but reduced efficiency and a smaller amount of fuel loaded.
Schematic sectional view of a solid fuel boiler with lower fuel combustion
In solid fuel boilers of a mine structure, firewood is loaded through a door, which is located in the upper part of the combustion chamber. Such units are equipped with forced draft, which is directed from top to bottom - it drives smoke to the lower part of the furnace, where it burns mixed with air, and along the way it heats up and additionally dries the fuel of the lower tiers.
Scheme of operation of a solid fuel heating boiler with an upper combustion method A unit with a lower combustion method is more suitable for self-production, so when assembling it, you can do without a fan for forced draft.
Solid fuel steel boiler of lower combustion without finishing Important! The more complex the design of the equipment, the higher the technological requirements for the quality of execution of its components, which should not have deviations from the design parameters. The assembly process of such a unit is no less responsible.
According to the method of combustion, solid fuel boilers can be designed for normal operation or operate with pyrolysis - the process of decomposition of solid fuel into two components and their subsequent separate combustion. Giving preference to the second, more complex, option, you will have to take into account the need to install a second combustion chamber, which will increase the dimensions of the heater and, accordingly, require more materials.
The choice of the type of heating equipment is largely determined by the type of solid fuel that will be supplied to the heating device. If you have a large amount of firewood on hand, it would be better if the boiler you made is designed for firewood. With greater availability of hard coal, another model will do. The duration of burning bookmarks, the quality of heating are determined by the type of solid fuel boiler, its power and design.
On a note: the combustion temperature of coal is much higher than that of firewood, therefore, the heat exchanger and the boiler body for coal are made of thicker steel. An alternative would be to build the body and combustion chamber of the boiler from refractory bricks.
If it is not possible to create the outer casing of the unit from steel of the required thickness, a brick solid fuel boiler will be a rational solution. Refractory brick lining will create a spacious, comfortable and high temperature resistant combustion chamber.
Construction of a combustion chamber from refractory bricks with placement inside the heat exchanger The choice of a boiler with a design of acceptable complexity must be made after analyzing the technical performance and an objective assessment of one's competence and capabilities. If there is any doubt, in order to exclude the possibility of unjustified damage to the material, it is better to give preference to the unit of a simple design that is clear from the drawings - even such a solid fuel boiler is able to provide the house with heat in the cold season.
Basic requirements for the design of a homemade heater
In its classic form, the heating unit, from which home heating will work, consists of the following elements:
- combustion chamber (bunker) for burning firewood, coal, fuel briquettes;
- grates through which air mass is supplied to the combustion chamber;
- tubular heat exchanger or storage tank for boiler water;
- chimney for bringing out the products of combustion of fuel;
An important requirement that will have to be taken into account at the design stage of the boiler is the dimensions of the combustion chamber. The furnace of an autonomous solid fuel boiler should be spacious and roomy. The design of the combustion chamber is calculated in such a way that the fuel placed in it burns completely without additional mixing. Brick boilers are preferable in this regard, since brick has a lower thermal conductivity, which provides a higher combustion temperature in a ceramic furnace than in a metal unit.
The combustion chamber should be designed in such a way as to maximize the concentration of thermal energy on heating the heat exchanger.
Solid fuel boiler steel firebox
The next, no less important aspect in the design of heating equipment is the heat exchanger of a solid fuel boiler. The efficiency of boiler equipment depends on the design of this element, the quality of the material and the performance. The name of the heat exchanger is determined by the material of its manufacture - cast iron or steel. The heat exchange coils of these units - tubular structures with a vertical or horizontal arrangement of pipes in everyday life are often called water jackets.
We will not consider cast-iron heat exchangers, since this is a cast structure, the manufacture of which is impossible at home. However, you can use ready-made cast iron assemblies, removed from old units, dismantled for some reason. Such a replacement is common when a solid fuel boiler is being upgraded or repaired.
For the manufacture of a steel heat exchanger, thick-walled pipes are used. The desired configuration of the pipe is made flexible under heating or using bends or half-bends of the appropriate diameter, connected to the fragments of the coil by electric welding.
The installation diagram for a coil for a traditional solid fuel unit will give a complete picture of how the heat exchanger should look like and in what position it is better to install it.
Sketch of one of the options for the location of the tube heat exchanger in the housing: side views Step-by-step production of a solid fuel boiler. Subtleties and nuances
You will not be able to make the most economical home-made solid fuel boiler, but you can create a heating apparatus that is quite suitable for heating and hot water supply. The fact is that the assembly of industrial products is carried out on high-precision industrial equipment from specially selected materials in compliance with technological parameters. Accurate thermal calculations are the basis of each factory model of the boiler. The possibilities of working at home are incommensurably more modest than production ones, therefore, when choosing a model to be manufactured, one must proceed from existing realities, including one's personal potential as an installer.
Tools and materials
Having a drawing and specification of the heating unit, you can decide on the list of necessary tools. Whether you want to make a large boiler or plan to assemble a small solid fuel heater with your own hands, the list of accessories will be approximately the same.
Tool kit for self-manufacturing of a solid fuel heating unit To work, you will need the following tools and fixtures:
- welding machine;
- small grinder with cutting and grinding discs (safety glasses);
- electric drill with drills for metal;
- gas keys No. 1,2;
- a hammer;
- a set of open-end or box wrenches and screwdrivers;
- pliers;
- 90 degree angle.
The main material in the manufacture is steel, the thickness of which for the boiler must be at least 5 mm, for the grate - from 7 mm.
In addition, you will need:
- steel corner 50x50 - for the boiler frame;
- sheet stainless steel - if there is a storage tank in the design;
- steel thick-walled pipes with a diameter of 32-50 mm - for the manufacture of a coil heat exchanger.
A complete list of materials and their consumption is compiled in advance on the basis of technical drawings.
Housing and heat exchanger manufacturing
The boiler body, which often plays the role of a combustion chamber, is the basis of the entire structure. To reduce wall deformations under the influence of high temperature, the enclosing structures of the furnace are made two-layer with backfilling between the layers of dry sifted sand, which plays the role of a geometry fixer. The outer and inner shells of the furnace are made of frame, which also increases the rigidity of the structure. In addition, to increase the strength of the walls of the combustion chamber, the outside can be sheathed with a steel corner or a profile in the form of stiffeners.
Manufacture of a body of a solid fuel boiler by welding blanks from sheet steel According to the drawing, two openings are cut out on the front wall with a grinder or a gas cutter - for the bunker door and the ash pan.
Advice! Before cutting sheet steel, it is necessary to mark future openings with small diameter holes (3-4 mm) at the corners of the holes - this will allow cutting with greater accuracy.
After cutting blanks from sheet steel and a profile for the body, you can begin to create a heat exchanger. We use cut water pipes, which are connected by welding into a single sealed circuit. The main task is to create a hermetic flow fragment of maximum length to increase the heating area of the pipe.
How to make a heat exchanger, correctly position the pipes and perform welding, tells the video brought to your attention.
Assembly
When all structural elements are ready, assembly is started, which is best done at the installation site of the unit - sometimes the dimensions and weight of the finished device do not allow it to be moved from the assembly site to the final location.
Most often, the boiler is installed on a specially constructed concrete foundation with the unit fastened by welding to embedded parts - anchors. Installation begins with the installation of the frame, after which it is equipped with components and sheathing sheets. All welded joints are made with chamfering and processing of welds - slag removal and grinding.
On a note: After assembling the body, a thorough visual check of its tightness is carried out, as a result of which additional welding of the seams is carried out.
Grids (steel grating) and a heat exchanger are installed in the finished housing, which is connected to the heating circuit by welding.
The body of a solid fuel boiler at the stage of installation of external stiffeners Important! It is better to entrust the manufacture of a storage tank from stainless steel with its insertion into the circuit, since working with this material requires special equipment and practical skills.
Upon completion of the assembly, for corrosion protection, the boiler is painted with two layers of heat-resistant paint with preliminary surface preparation.
Heat-resistant paint Ecoterra for coating surfaces exposed to high temperatures A self-made heating boiler is distinguished by its durability and ease of maintenance, which consists in periodic cleaning of the furnace ash and maintenance of the chimney.
Conclusion
After the assembly is completed and the unit is completed with all the necessary elements, it is pressure tested with water under pressure, according to the results of which defects are eliminated, and then a set of commissioning works. Do not neglect the installation of a draft regulator, which will facilitate the operation of a solid fuel boiler in various weather conditions.
For the organization of a domestic heating system, solid fuel boilers are the most economical option. But, despite all the richness of the choice of equipment available on the market and a fairly wide price and functional range, not every consumer is able to buy a unit that optimally satisfies his needs. On the other hand, it is quite possible to make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands. And save at the same time significant funds that would have to pay for factory equipment. All that is needed for this is knowledge of the device and the principle of operation of this category of heating installations, as well as skills in working with various tools and materials, in particular metal.
Choosing the type of solid fuel boiler
How to understand which boiler will be optimal for servicing a particular heating system? Obviously, it is necessary to determine the type of fuel, the required power of the unit and the features of its design, the installation process and subsequent operation, as well as the features of the connected heating system.
Among the materials that can be used as solid fuels, the most widely used are:
- coal;
- peat briquettes;
- pellets;
- firewood;
- sawdust and other combustible production waste.
Types of solid fuel for heating boilers in the photo
Peat briquettes 
Firewood for solid fuel boiler 
Charcoal for solid fuel heating boilers 
Wood fuel briquettes for solid fuel boilers 
Eurowood (fuel briquettes for a picnic) 
Wood sawdust for heating boilers
In order to increase the profitability and efficiency of the heating system, it is possible to manufacture a universal unit that can work with various types of fuel.
The choice of the type and design of the heating boiler directly depends on what kind of fuel you are going to use, the required performance of the heating system, as well as the place where it will be installed. The following modifications of solid fuel heating units are suitable for self-production:
- Classic
Equipped with a steel or cast iron heat exchanger, they can be used for both heating and hot water supply. The efficiency of such boilers is about 85%.
- Pyrolysis
They provide separate combustion of fuel and the volatile gases emitted at the same time, due to which the efficiency and, consequently, the economy of the heating system are significantly increased.
- Pellet
The efficiency of this type of heating boilers reaches 90%. Their main advantage is a high degree of automation of work processes, and the disadvantage is the complexity of the design.
- long burning
They are able to work continuously throughout the entire heating season, requiring fuel to be loaded once every few days, which distinguishes them from classic solid fuel boilers.
Design Basics
In order to make the right - safe, efficient and easy to use - solid fuel boiler, you need to understand the physics of the process of its operation and the operation of the heating system as a whole.
The principle of operation of a heating boiler for solid fuel:
- fuel is loaded into the combustion chamber;
- air and other gases heated during the combustion of fuel rise up and are discharged through the chimney;
- on the way to the chimney, hot air heats the heat exchanger, which in turn heats the heat agent (in most domestic heating systems, water);
- the heated heat agent displaces the cold one, passing through the entire heating system and returning after cooling back to the heat exchanger.
It's all about the property of any heated medium to rise above the cold one - this is one of the fundamental laws of thermodynamics.
To implement this principle, in addition to a body made of thick (at least 4-5 mm) heat-resistant steel, the following elements are included in the design of a solid fuel boiler:
- The combustion chamber
Its volume is determined by a complex formula, which, however, is quite easy to find on the Internet, as well as a ready-made solution - the volume of the combustion chamber in relation to the nominal power of the boiler or the maximum heating area.
In practice, the dimensions of the furnace depend not only on the parameters of the boiler and the properties of the fuel, but also on the characteristics of the heating system itself - schematic, functional complexity, seasonality of operation, peaks in hot water supply needs, etc.
- Hot Gas Exhaust Chamber
This node is a continuation of the combustion chamber and performs the function of an outlet manifold for the removal of combustion products.
- Internal system of supply and removal of coolant
We are talking about a heat exchanger (heat exchange register), as well as its main pipes - inlet and outlet, which serves to receive the cooled heat agent, heat it and discharge it into the heating system.
Important Points
The efficiency of a solid fuel boiler is always influenced by two factors:
- Design features of the heat exchanger
The larger the area of thermal contact, the more energy per unit time will be transferred from the burning fuel to the thermal agent - water.
Options for a homemade heat exchanger in the photo
Horizontal heat exchanger made of sheet steel and shaped pipe 
Homemade horizontal heat exchanger 
Do-it-yourself steel vertical heat exchanger for a boiler
- Completeness and period of fuel combustion
If the fuel burns inefficiently - it loses pyrolysis gas or does not have time to heat the coolant to the required temperature, there are flaws in the design. Therefore, the calculation and manufacturing process of the latter should be taken with the utmost responsibility - after assembly it will be impossible to change it.
The design of the boiler must be reliable and safe, and the responsibility for this lies with none other than the body. It is made of thick (at least 5 mm) steel, preferably heat-resistant. However, the latter is much more expensive than usual, so you should remember that the thicker the metal, the slower it will heat up. This means that in order for a medium-sized boiler not to burn hands and not to make a sauna out of the boiler room, the boiler body must be about 8 mm thick.
The exception is constructions with a top cover made of cast iron, which acts as a furnace. The thickness and dimensions of the cast iron sheet will depend on the structural parameters of the body and the performance of the boiler (but not less than 8 mm).
To organize the internal piping system of the boiler, it is necessary to use pipes with a wall thickness of 3-4 mm and a diameter of 50 mm. To ensure the flow of the coolant, it is necessary to provide for a narrowing (from 50 to 25 mm) of pipelines in the direction from hot to cold, for example, from the boiler to radiators) and expand them on the return path of the coolant.
Spatial scheme and layout of a solid fuel heat generator
The dimensions of a solid fuel boiler depend on the dimensions and orientation of the combustion chamber in space. Vertical structures have become more widespread, since this arrangement saves space in the boiler room.
The traditional scheme of a vertical solid fuel boiler:
To set up and monitor the operation of the unit during operation, you will need special equipment. This includes water temperature sensors at the inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger and heating system units, sensors for loading the combustion chamber, pressure in it and in certain sections of the boiler, etc.
The principle of natural circulation of the coolant is not always successfully realized. Therefore, often the heating boiler is equipped with an additional water pump, which forcibly supplies the coolant to the heat exchanger and / or to the heating system.
The pump is a volatile unit, which means that it is important to provide for the possibility of supplying the coolant bypassing in case of a power outage. Firstly, in order for the heating to function, and secondly, so that the boiler or communications are not broken by steam or damaged by temperature.
If a pump is included in the design of a solid fuel boiler, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of adjusting its operating parameters, as well as an emergency shutdown. A solid fuel boiler cannot be stopped in the event of a breakdown of the nodes and communications of the heating system. Therefore, a system for removing excess heat is needed - a buffer tank with a compensation valve or another solution that is appropriate in your case.
What do you need to work?
First of all, a workshop, that is, a place where you will be engaged in the manufacture of the main components and assembly of the unit. In addition, you will need a fairly extensive list of tools, which you can safely include:
- welding mask, leggings and overalls;
- household inverter welding machine and electrodes;
- circular saw with a set of discs for cutting metal;
- electric drill with a set of drills for metal;
- tape measure, squares, building level.
To assemble a solid fuel boiler, you will need the following materials:
- sheets of steel with a thickness of 5 mm;
- metal corners;
- cast iron grate;
- steel water pipes of various diameters;
- doors for the ash and combustion chamber;
- throttle valves of furnace type.
Before proceeding with the manufacture of elements and components of the boiler, it is necessary to perform structural calculations, decide on a circuit diagram and draw a drawing of the boiler, not forgetting to indicate all its structural components and their main parameters.
And most importantly: observe safety precautions both in the process of work and in relation to the quality of the solid fuel boiler. The slightest oversight on your part can cause serious problems, incl. increased risk of fire.
The heating system of a private house is a complex piping scheme, the heart of which is a heating boiler. The coolant is heated in it, which, under the influence of the laws of physics or with the help of a circulation pump, moves through the pipes, enters the radiators, where it gives off its heat, and cools down again into the boiler. And this process is repeated ad infinitum.
The modern market of boiler and heating equipment today offers a huge range of heating devices. Unfortunately, the price of many models is not affordable for everyone. Therefore, some consumers are faced with the question of whether it is possible to make a heating boiler with their own hands, will this home-made device work as efficiently as factory counterparts? You can make a boiler if you are a good welder and it will work no worse.
Types of heating boilers
First of all, you need to decide which boiler is needed for your home. This will depend on the fuel that will be used for kindling. Hence the classification:
- gas;
- electrical;
- solid fuel;
- liquid fuel.
Electrical
Any of these boilers can be made by hand. The simplest of them is electric. In fact, this is a tank in which the heating element is mounted. From the tank there are still two branch pipes connected to the supply and return circuits. There is no chimney, no combustion chamber, everything is simple.
All are good, but they have two drawbacks. First, electricity is the most expensive fuel. Second: when the voltage drops in the network (and this happens with enviable constancy), the boiler stops working correctly. Its power decreases, the coolant temperature drops.
Gas
The rest of the designs are more complex. And they are almost identical to each other with some differences. As for the gas boiler, you will need permission from the gas service to install it.
Representatives of this organization may not accept such a heating unit for installation. First of all, they will require it to be pressure tested in their laboratory.
The presence of an act is a guarantee that permission will still be given to you.
The operation of this option is associated with great difficulties. First, you will have to build a separate warehouse near the house where the fuel will be stored. Everything in it must comply with fire safety requirements.
Secondly, a pipeline will have to be pulled from the warehouse to the boiler room. It must be insulated. Thirdly, a special burner is installed in this type of boiler, which must be adjusted. This is not so easy to do in terms of setup.
Solid fuel
It is this type of boilers that today is most often made by home craftsmen with their own hands. For small cottages and cottages, this is the best option. Moreover, firewood is by far the cheapest type of fuel.
We will talk about how to make a solid fuel boiler for heating a house below.
What will be needed?
As mentioned above, in order to weld a heating unit, you must be a good welder. Work at the level of an amateur is not suitable here.
Instruments
What is required for this work. Of the tools you will need:
- electric welding machine;
- gas cutter;
- Bulgarian;
- a hammer;
- roulette;
- marker or chalk.
materials
From materials:
- seamless pipe with a diameter of 425 mm;
- pipe with a diameter of 100 mm;
- pipe with a diameter of 25 mm;
- metal sheet 4 mm thick;
- two drives with a diameter of 25 mm;
- small loops;
- corner 25 mm;
- fittings with a diameter of 8 mm.
Project
Many beginners look for boiler drawings on the Internet or in specialized technical literature and are already working on them. Basically, this is the right way.
Most importantly, find drawings that indicate the dimensions of the heater.
Case manufacturing
So, first of all, the details of the future unit are prepared. The body of the heater will be made from a 425 mm pipe. For a small heating boiler, a height of 1.0-1.2 m, taking into account the small diameter, is the best option.
We cut the pipe to these dimensions using a gas cutter. We process the edges with a grinder.
Now it is necessary to cut two holes in the body: for the firebox and for the blower. They must be rectangular. For a firebox, a size of 20x10 cm is suitable, for a blower 20x3 cm. They are located one above the other, the furnace hole is higher.
The distance from the edge of the pipe to the blower is within 5-7 cm. The distance between the holes is 5 cm. The edges of the hole are processed with a grinder. The cut out piece of the pipe wall for the firebox will be used as a door. Its edges are also cleaned.
Using a cutter, two more holes are cut for the supply and return pipes with a diameter of 25 mm. The holes are opposite each other. At the same time, the return hole is cut out on the side of the boiler above the furnace: from the furnace hole at a distance of 15 cm.
At a distance of 5 cm, only from the upper edge of the housing, a hole is cut for supplying the coolant. Immediately, two drives can be welded to these holes.
Three pancakes are cut out of a metal sheet: two with a diameter of 425 mm, one with a diameter of 412 mm. The latter will be installed inside the body, and since the wall thickness of the pipe is 6 mm, 12 mm falls on the diameter, plus 1 mm for free entry.
In one of the pancakes with a diameter of 425 mm and in a circle of 412 mm, a hole with a diameter of slightly more than 100 mm is cut in the center. A chimney is being prepared from a 100 mm pipe. For this, a segment of 120-130 mm is cut. Pieces 50 mm long are cut from a 25 mm pipe for the legs of the boiler. A grate for an ash pan is made from the reinforcement, the size of the inner diameter of the body is taken as a basis.
Assembling the heating unit
First of all, a chimney is welded to a 412 mm pancake. Then, inside the body at a height of 30-35 cm from the furnace hole, temporary stops must be welded. It can be wire or fittings. A pancake with a chimney falls on top of them.
Main joints
And now the most important point - you need to weld the pancake and the boiler body together. It is necessary to boil the seam on both sides and it must be done with high quality. This joint is the junction of the firebox and the water tank.
The next step concerns the combustion chamber. On the reverse side of the chimney, a finished reinforcement grate is inserted into the body.
Then, from a corner of 25 mm, several pieces are cut out by a grinder, which are welded inside the boiler between the furnace hole and the blower. These will be the stops on which the grate will lie.
Lower body
And the last. It is necessary to weld a 425 mm pancake to the lower edge of the body, weld four legs from a 25 mm pipe 5 cm high to it. Next, hinges are welded on which the firebox door is hung.
Blower valve design
The design can be different: in the form of a conventional door, in the form of a gate (this is a damper that moves in the plane of the hole), in the form of a rotary damper with holes in the body. Finished products are sold that are simply welded in place.
You can weld a one-piece structure with your own hands and attach it to the boiler. Of all the proposed options, the simplest is either a door or a gate.
Testing and connection to the system
Solid fuel boiler for home heating is ready. Now you need to check it. To do this, a plug is screwed onto one of the drives, and water is poured into the second. If water does not pass through the welds, then the welding was carried out at a high level.
You should not be afraid that the heating unit will leak during operation. The finished unit is connected to the heating system of a country house. That is, the drives are connected to the supply and return pipes of the coolant.
The chimney is being installed. Please note that this element of the device must exit vertically upwards. If it is not possible to arrange it in this way, then there should be a minimum number of taps.
In an unheated attic, it will have to be insulated.
First kindling
It is very important to correctly conduct the first furnace. In this case, you can not use a large amount of fuel. A small bookmark should heat the unit itself, especially the chimney. With a sharp increase in temperature, condensation may form on its walls, which will turn into tar, narrowing the diameter. And this is a decrease in thrust, which is responsible for the correct operation of the heater.
Gap adjustment
During the combustion process, the gap in the blower is adjusted. It is necessary to find the optimal size that will provide the combustion chamber with the necessary amount of fresh air (oxygen).
Be sure to pay attention to the height of the bookmark. Its upper edge should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the inner pancake. This distance will ensure optimal combustion of wood or coal. In this case, smoke and carbon monoxide will be freely removed through the chimney.
Principle of operation
In fact, a traditional solid fuel boiler works like a conventional stove. There is also a firebox in which firewood (coal, pellets and other types of solid fuels) burns. The released energy heats the coolant located in the tank above the combustion chamber.
The heat carrier in this design is heated both from the internal pancake and from the chimney, which pierces through the container with water. At the same time, the boiler body also heats up, which creates an accumulative effect that prevents rapid cooling when the unit is turned off.
The heated coolant rises and exits through the upper pipe into the supply circuit of the heating system. The cooled coolant enters the boiler through the lower pipe connected to the return circuit.
Other options
For home heating, it can be made in the form of a cube from a metal sheet 4 mm thick. This is a more complex design, in which you will have to assemble a separate combustion chamber. It turns out that a combustion chamber is installed in the boiler body. And between the walls of the two structures, the coolant will circulate. This is a more efficient option, but difficult to manufacture. It has a lot of welds, which reduces the reliability and safety of operation.
