Do-it-yourself Russian oven ordering. How to make a Russian oven. It is worth noting the positive aspects of using

At the mention of the Russian stove, associations with a fairy tale and magic arise. And yet - with incredibly tasty and fragrant dishes and a warm atmosphere. It is striking that the fire of its simple hearth has not died out even in our technological era. Thanks to the revival of individual construction, this wonderful heating unit is still held in high esteem by the owners of country houses. Making it with your own hands, having detailed instructions at hand, will not be so difficult.

Why Russian stoves are so popular

The incredible "survivability" of the Russian stove lies in its functionality - it is used both as a cooking unit and as a heating unit, and the latter, contrary to popular belief, is by no means the primary function. In its simplest form, the design is a very deep fireplace, in fact, an overall firebox with a pipe.

Russian stove of traditional design

Thanks to thick walls and a massive arch, the heat storage capacity of the Russian stove can be the envy of any other solid fuel unit. The same factor plays in favor of profitability. The structure can stay warm throughout the day, so it doesn't take much firewood to keep the temperature within comfortable limits. Here it is impossible not to mention the extremely convenient design with a bench or beds.

The design of the Russian stove is also unique in terms of creating culinary masterpieces. The wide temperature gradient of the firebox is very convenient to use during cooking. If it is necessary to get a quick heating, the cast iron with the contents is moved closer to the hearth. If it is required to reduce the intensity of boiling, then it is moved to the periphery, closer to the sides. By the way, the Russian stove has a unique ability that no other heating and cooking unit has. The walls and roof of the furnace heated to a high temperature are able to maintain a very high temperature even after the fuel has completely burned out. The infrared rays emitted by the surface allow you to bake or simmer food for a long time, getting an incomparable taste and a ruddy appetizing crust. The advantage of this method of cooking lies in the fact that it does not come into contact with either fire or gas, so there can be no question of any carcinogens.

Today, the Russian stove is an extremely functional heating device with a hob, water heater and a place to relax.

Modern heating appliances can be classified according to the presence of one of the following features:

• The presence of a plate and underfloor. The hob is built directly into the body of the furnace, obtaining the so-called hearth, which was deaf in the canonical model.
• Placement on the back of the stove fireplace, which opens into an adjacent room. The practicality of this method is extremely high, since the existence of two heaters does not require the construction of separate chimneys and foundation slabs.
• Rough or trestle bed attached to the stove. They still, as before, increase the comfort and convenience of the heater, although the dimensions of modern stoves cannot be compared with the dimensions of traditional stoves, which were calculated for 3-4 people.

The integration of the stove into the array of the Russian stove not only expanded its cooking capabilities, but also made it possible to heat the side heating shield and the lower part of the structure. According to this factor, units with side heating are distinguished, which are used to heat the next room, as well as heat generators with bottom heating. The presence of a fire in the latter allows you to warm up the walls that are below the level of the hearth. Due to the increase in heat transfer, it becomes possible to heat a room with an increased area without the need to expand the dimensions of the device.

Bottom heating greatly increases thermal performance

Advantages and disadvantages (table)

In addition, the Russian stove will require the hostess to be able to handle a tong, a frying pan, pots and cast iron, and not every modern woman will like this. If you are ready to put up with minor inconveniences, then this literally fabulous unit will be able to thank the owner not only with warm and tasty food, but also with healthy sleep, as well as wonderful healing procedures.

See also a step-by-step guide to building a Dutch oven with your own hands:.

Device and design features

Built according to all the canons, the oven has many structural elements.

Schematic representation of the main parts of the Russian stove

1. Underbay. The recess at the base of the stove is intended for storing and drying firewood. Today, many owners are abandoning the stove to simplify and reduce the cost of construction, and they do it in vain. It is impossible to find a more convenient and practical place for fuel.
2. Pechurka - a cold niche for storing dishes.
3. Six - a flat horizontal surface in front of the crucible. Here you can leave food pulled out of the hearth so that it stays hot for a long time. There are designs of furnaces in which a hob is equipped in this place.
4. Under or bream - the bottom of the crucible (cooking chamber) located at a slight slope to the hearth. Deviation from the horizontal to the exit makes it easy to move heavy cast irons.
5. Crucible - the space inside the furnace, which simultaneously performs the functions of a firebox and a cooking chamber. As in the case of the bream, the ceiling of the furnace has a slope towards the exit. This allows you to retain hot gases under the arch, so that they have time to warm up the array of the heater. Between the hearth and the hearth there is a cap, or cap, - a kind of transition zone between the horizontal sections of the furnace with different temperatures.
6. Overtube - the same as hailo. In a Russian stove, this is a smoke box located above the hearth. Behind him is a chimney.
7. A samovar (in other words, a stuffer) is a narrow channel leading directly to the chimney, which is intended for connecting the pipe of the samovar. In modern stoves, a stuffing box is not equipped.
8. Vertical flue above the hearth
9. A view is a hatch that completely covers the chimney. Through the view window there is access to the valve 10, which regulates the draft in the furnace.
10. Chimney valve.
11. Couch.

In another illustration, the structure of the internal chambers of the structure is clearly visible. The stove, which can be seen in the lower figure, is intended for drying fruits, mushrooms and berries. As you can see, the thickness of the walls between the niche and the crucible is no more than a brick, which actually turns the stove into a kind of modern Swedish wood-burning ovens.

The structure of the internal space of the Russian stove

The air intake, which is a kind of recuperator, has a huge impact on the performance of the heater: the incoming air flow is heated by flue gases. Mixing does not occur due to the different density of gases, and experiments have shown the absence of turbulence even at the interface between two gas streams. To avoid turbulence, the surfaces of the hail and the back are made as smooth as possible. Otherwise, turbulence will carry away some of the oxygen, which will increase the gas generating capacity of the heater.

Oxygen entering the furnace supports intensive combustion of the fuel. In this case, the heated gases rush to the arch of the crucible. Due to its inclination towards the mouth and a small threshold, which prevents the free exit of gases to the hail, two stable zones of gas circulation are created. It is in them that all the power of the Russian stove lies, only for the formation of vortices one should strictly adhere to the main dimensions.

In addition, rotating flows keep unburned particles in the high-temperature flame zone for a long time, thereby increasing the completeness of fuel combustion. The heated arch and walls of the cooking chamber actively radiate energy in the infrared range, evenly heating what is being cooked in the crucible. As for the filling, it acts not only as a thermal economizer, but also allows you to keep food hot all day long. To do this, it is enough to block the chimney, and close the mouth with a wooden damper.

Due to the peculiarities of the smoke circulation, the stove remains warm for a long time

As you can see, the smoke circulation of the Russian stove is characterized by a minimum temperature gradient. The constancy of the temperature of the heated gases, as well as their constant circulation in the working area, leads to the fact that the smallest particles of fuel burn without residue in the crucible. And here is another important advantage of such a simple but carefully thought-out design. The fact is that ash is, of course, present in the heating unit, but with regards to soot and soot, they practically do not settle on the walls of the furnace - it will have to be cleaned only a few times in a lifetime.

Our website contains a large number of instructions for self-assembly of furnaces of various designs and complexity, including the Kuznetsov stove:.

Dimensions, drawings and orders

There are many options for Russian stoves. Drawings of some of them we give as an example.

Photo gallery: examples of drawings and orders

Russian stove: drawings and orders Drawing of a Russian stove with bottom heating
Drawing of a Russian oven with a hob
Drawing of a Russian stove with a stove bench

Today we will not dwell on simple designs. Our goal is to build a practical and functional unit with a hob and a hot water tank that will satisfy any owner of a suburban home. Below you can see its drawings and orders, and in the future we will provide complete instructions for the manufacture of the furnace, the arrangement of the chimney and the procedure for putting the unit into operation.

Drawing and orders for the Russian stove (photo gallery)

Drawing of an improved Russian stove
Ordering of the Russian oven: 1 - 24 row Ordering: 25 - 31 row Finished oven

Tools and materials

Laying a Russian oven: step by step instructions

Appearance of the future furnace

First of all, let me give you a few tips that will make the job easier and the structure built safer.

1. Use only high-quality brick, in the body of which there are no cracks.
2. When filling the joints, there should be no voids and gaps inside, and their thickness should be within 5-8 cm. Remember that coating the walls with clay for their tightness is not the best option, since thermal conductivity drops.
3. Before laying a brick, it is recommended to soak it - in this case, it will not draw liquid from the mortar.

Brick before laying is soaked for another reason. During drying, it will dehydrate simultaneously with the solution, which will contribute to better adhesion and strengthening of the walls.

In order for the design to be neat, excess clay squeezed out of the seams must be immediately picked up, preventing them from drying out. The walls of the furnace can be laid out in a brick or half-brick, while the inner chambers can be half or even a quarter of its size. Experienced craftsmen most often make a medium-sized stove with a thickness of up to 15 cm, arguing that this way it warms up faster and does not require additional fuel for the preliminary furnace.

It is convenient to carry out masonry, focusing on order. To do this, the scheme is printed on separate sheets of paper in order to follow the selected instructions during the work.

1. The first row is laid out with special care, because it sets the geometric correspondence and evenness of the structure. For beginner stove-makers, it is better to draw the contours of the stove with chalk on the base, or first make a dry test laying. When working, they adhere to the following order: first lay out the outer perimeter of the structure, and then fill it in according to the ordering scheme.

   

   Laying the 1st row is continuous

2. The second row begins to form the walls, cleaning channels and the bottom of the ash pan.

   

   Masonry of the 2nd row begins to form internal chambers

3. Before starting the third row, install the blower door and the hatch of the cleaning chamber. Pieces of steel wire will help to securely fix them in the masonry, which is screwed to the door frames at one end, and placed into the inter-brick seam with the other.

   

   Starting the 3rd row, cast-iron doors are installed

   So that the junctions of the cast iron do not crack during operation, the metal elements can be wrapped with an asbestos cord or the gaps can be sealed with a basalt sealant.

4. The fourth row closes the cavities located near the walls and forms the overlap of the hearth channel.

   

   4th row masonry

5. Starting the fifth row, grates are installed and begin to form a firebox. Often, fireclay bricks dissolved into two parts are used for this purpose. At the same level, the door of the small fuel chamber is mounted, which is located below the bottom channel.

   

   5th row: installation of the grate and furnace door

6. On the sixth row lay out the firebox and mount the water heater.

   

   Installing a hot water tank in row 6

7. Seventh row. Installation of grates of a small fuel chamber and a large furnace door. The right wall is pulled together with a metal strip, which is placed in the seam and fixed by the outer edges of the bricks with vertical hooks. Like the side surfaces of the firebox, its back wall is laid out dry. In this case, the parts of the firebox adjacent to the outer walls are made with gaps to improve heat transfer.

   

   Features of laying the 7th row

8. The eighth and ninth rows continue to increase the internal channels, and also fix the small furnace door.

   

   Masonry of the 8th and 9th row

9. In the tenth row, the vaults of both furnaces are connected, while laying out the bottom of the crucible. In this case, the openings of the channels located at the rear wall must be open. Here, a few bricks cover the water tank.

   

   10th row form the bottom of the crucible

10. On the 11th row, a base is prepared for the hob, for which a steel corner is attached above the furnace doors. In addition, a grate is installed in the back of a large firebox.

    

    11th row: installation of the hob

11. 12th and 13th row - form the base of the chimney and the walls of the cooking chamber (crucible). A valve is also installed here, which will block the channel between the main chamber and the chimney.

    

    12th and 13th row

12. On the 14th row, they begin to equip a side passage from the crucible to the smoke channel, build up the walls of the cooking chamber and make a hole for the valve.

    

    14th row: we form a channel for the removal of combustion products

13. From the 15th row, they begin to narrow the masonry to block the crucible and further distill the smoke channel.

    

    In the 15th row, they begin to form the base of the arch of the crucible

14. On the 16th row, the side walls of the furnace are fastened with metal strips, just as it was done with the right side of the unit in the seventh row.

    

    Masonry features of the 16th row

15. 17 row. The second metal corner is laid above the niche of the hob and the side bases of the hob of the cooking chamber are equipped.

    

    The work that is carried out during the laying of the 17th row

16. On the 18th row, a domed template is installed and the arched vault of the crucible is laid out.

    

    Arched vault of the 18th row

17. In the 19th row, the wall at the mouth of the furnace is strengthened with a metal strip. They continue to build up the side walls that are needed to hold the backfill.

    

    Fastening a metal strip in the 19th row

18. 20th row. They increase the height of the walls by one more brick, after which the vault is covered with sand for better thermal insulation.

    

    After laying the 20th row, the outer side of the furnace roof is covered with sand

19. The 21st row forms the overlap of the furnace. Here the overtube begins to narrow.

    

    21st row: overlap covering the furnace backfill

20. To reduce the gas flow rate, a metal sheet with a cut-out round opening is installed in the 22nd row. Continue to reduce the cross section of the overtube.

    

    Features of the construction of the furnace in the 22nd row

21. In the 23rd row, a cleaning door is mounted in the smoke channel and the outlet channel is increased.

    

    

    The last rows of the furnace combine the overtube with the chimney

After that, the work on the construction of the furnace is considered completed. It remains to build a chimney, after which it will be possible to carry out a test firebox.

Chimney arrangement

The chimney necessary for the operation of a Russian stove is absolutely no different from the chimney of any stationary solid fuel unit, whether it is a “Dutch”, “Swede” or some newfangled bell-type furnace calculated using computer simulation. The design and arrangement of the chimney can be taken from the drawing below.

Chimney device for a Russian stove with orders

• The device and installation site of the pipe for the removal of combustion products must comply with the standards of the current SNiP.
• At the point of transition from the ceiling to the attic, the pipe should thicken.
• The lower part of the chimney is placed on the same solution as the stove.
• The internal section of the smoke channel must correspond to the power of the heater.
• Above the roof, the chimney is built on a solution with the addition of cement.
• The places where the pipe passes through the ceilings are insulated with non-combustible and waterproofing materials.

In the process of work, the geometry of the structure and the deviation from the vertical are constantly monitored using a level or plumb line.

Ways to finish Russian stoves

Decorating a Russian stove is done in several ways:

• bricklaying;
• plastering;
• finishing with ceramic tiles or tiles.

Jointing on brickwork is the easiest way, which is quite good for modern interiors. The main thing is that such a method of decoration is planned from the very beginning, since the aesthetics of the design directly depend on the quality of the material and the accuracy of the masonry. As a rule, facing bricks with smooth side walls are used for laying exterior walls.

If the goal is to build a Russian stove according to the old canons, then it must be plastered with a special clay mortar with the addition of chaff. After drying, the outer surfaces are covered with a solution of white clay in water. Such whitewashing is an environmentally friendly, safe coating for others. In addition, thanks to her, the basis for the final finish - painting is being prepared. The patterns that cover the walls of the oven can repeat the national ornament or scenes from fairy tales, be floral curlicues, stylized Gzhel, Khokhloma, etc. - it all depends on the created mood and the preferences of the owner. A wide selection of plaster mixtures allows you to replace the old composition with a more modern "bark beetle" or "lamb".

For finishing with ceramic tiles, only heat-resistant types of tiles are used - terracotta, majolica, heat-resistant clinker or porcelain stoneware. In addition, Russian stoves are often laid out with tiles. Note that although decorating with ceramic tiles is one of the most beautiful and practical ways of finishing, after it the arrogance and luxury of the “Dutch women” begin to be seen in the design, and not everyone will like this.

How to decorate a Russian stove (photo gallery)

Decorating with painted ceramic tiles Laying tiles can be done not continuous, but with wide decorative stripes
Finishing with tiles A stove lined with tiles often begins to resemble a stylish "Dutch" The traditional way of finishing is whitewashing Painting is a traditional way of finishing a Russian stove

If you plan not to embroider the masonry, but to line it with ceramic tiles or plaster, then be sure to fix a metal mesh on the surface of the walls. Otherwise, the decorative finish will fall off when the structure is heated.

How to put the heater into operation

Having built a stove, in no case should you rush to try its heating abilities at full strength. It must be handled carefully and carefully, since with intensive heating, the walls located closer to the hearth will dry out much faster than distant surfaces. The difference in thermal expansion of wet and dry materials is quite significant, so there is a danger of cracks appearing at the joint boundaries. To avoid trouble, all oven openings are opened and dried under natural conditions for two weeks.

Due to the need for long-term drying of the furnace, it is recommended to start its construction in the warm season.

To speed up the process of removing moisture or when drying the structure under adverse weather conditions, a fan heater or a powerful electric lamp can be placed in the crucible and firebox. In this case, the oven doors are closed, and the channels are left open.

The hearth is kindled only after the walls have completely dried.

The furnace fire starts only after the end of the pre-drying period.. To do this, during the first two days, no more than 3-4 kg of firewood are laid in the unit, adding 1 kg of fuel every day for a decade. The readiness of the furnace for full operation is judged by the absence of condensate on the internal surfaces of metal parts. The heater is tested several times at half power, after which the operation of the unit is checked at maximum mode. During the "break-in" be sure to inspect the surface of the walls for the appearance of cracks and their possible increase. The flaws that have appeared are closed up only after the furnace has been heated several times at full strength.

1. After a long period of inactivity, be sure to check all visible surfaces for tightness of the seams. Cracks that appear must be repaired with clay mortar.
2. Before each firebox, check the draft. If smoke from the crucible enters the room, the stove should never be operated. Perhaps one of the valves is closed or the chimney needs to be cleaned.
3. You can close the view only after the firewood has completely burned out.
4. It is recommended to remove soot from the inside of the oven at the beginning of each season. In fact, the furnace is very slightly contaminated and after construction it will not require cleaning for several years. However, it all depends on the smoke and the quality of the fuel used.

Video: we create a Russian brick oven with our own hands

A correctly and accurately built Russian stove will not only provide the room with comfortable warmth, but also create a unique original style, so dear and close that any guest will forever be fascinated and subdued by the interior of your home. If you also use a heater for cooking, you will be able to fully experience the taste and aroma of real Russian pies, daily cabbage soup or fragrant stewed porridge.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know a lot of nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Of all the currently existing types of brick ovens, the modern Russian oven with a bench is rightfully considered the most effective and multifunctional. Its special principle of work has been verified over the centuries, remaining unchanged to this day. At the same time, the old design is constantly being improved. In this material, we will analyze the device and design features of the Russian stove, as well as consider the techniques and methods for its construction.

The device of the Russian stove

Even in ancient times, when these heat sources were used everywhere, it was difficult to find two identical stoves. One and the same furnace master, taking into account the wishes of the owners of the house, could improve or change his brainchild in every possible way.

However, the principle of action, invented by an unknown master and who came to us from the darkness of centuries, has always been and remains unshakable. The method of burning solid fuel, taking heat and removing flue gases in a Russian stove with a stove bench is the only one of its kind.

So, in order to understand how this ancient and unique heater functions, you should first study the structure of the Russian stove. Nowadays, there are many designs of furnaces with various modifications and improvements, but they are all based on the traditional design shown in the figure:

The whole structure rests on a foundation, spaced from the nearest wall at a certain distance, as a rule, at least a quarter of an arshin (about 17 cm). The overall dimensions of the furnace were observed as follows:

• width - 2 arshins (142 cm);
• length - 3 arshins (213 cm);
• the height from the floor to the top of the couch is 2.5 arshins (178 cm).

The lower part of the building (guardianship) is hollow from the inside; earlier it was often made of wooden beams, now it is only made of bricks. To access this space, a special opening is made from the front side - the under-heating. Its purpose is to store household equipment or store and dry firewood. Above the stove there is a separate opening - the undercoat. The vault of the guardianship is laid out in the form of a brick arch, which is covered from above with any heat-intensive material, most often with sand.

Note. The vaults over the openings in the Russian stove with a stove bench were traditionally laid out only from an odd number of bricks.

On top of the backfill, it is laid under the crucible of bricks without the use of mortar. The bottom and vault of the crucible are made with a slight slope (about 50-80 mm for the entire length) towards the entrance to the firebox - the mouth. In the figure, which shows the scheme of the furnace, it is clearly seen that the space above the inclined arch and the walls of the furnace is also covered with sand. Only in some places, at the discretion of the owners, stoves are arranged. These are openings adjacent directly to the crucible through a half-brick wall. Stoves allow you to quickly warm up the room and dry small things.

2 more rows of bricks are placed above the stoves, and then a stove bench is arranged, it is located directly above the furnace. The latter has an outlet to the hearth - the mouth, and the walls on the sides of it are called cheeks. In front of the mouth, above the hearth, there is a hailo - a bell expanding downwards, where smoke goes during work. The chimney itself was built above, a view with a half-door and a valve are installed in it to block the channel.

Principle of operation

The way the process of fuel combustion and removal of combustion products takes place is shown by the sectional drawings of the Russian stove, presented below:

The movement of gases in a Russian stove is carried out not only due to the natural draft created by the chimney, but also due to the characteristics of the combustion process. Cold air from the room enters the mouth, meeting the opposite flow of flue gases along the way. At the same time, they practically do not mix, air occupies the upper zone of the passage, smoke - the lower one. Having met in the inlet and the mouth, the flows exchange heat, as if a natural gas-air heat exchanger is working.

To fold a Russian stove, you need to understand very well how all the processes in the firebox go. The heated air enters the combustion zone, and the flue gases leave it through the upper zone of the furnace, exiting through the mouth, hail and further into the chimney. But this does not happen immediately, the combustion products make several revolutions inside the space of the firebox and are burned out, giving off heat to the walls of the stove as much as possible. This forces them to make an inclined configuration of the chamber and the presence of a nut, whose role is identical to the chimney tooth in large English fireplaces. That is, within the furnace, a multi-pass heat transfer by gases is organized without the installation of extra smoke channels.

On the one hand, due to the large dimensions of the firebox, the size of the Russian stove with a stove bench is also quite large. And on the other hand, the efficiency of the furnace is at least 60%, which is an unattainable indicator for most other solid fuel air heating installations. Not to mention the ability to maintain the temperature for a long time and the healing properties of the Russian stove.

And only in it you can cook amazingly delicious dishes, you just need to do it right, using the process of languishing after the attenuation of the crucible. Finally, a well-finished Russian stove looks great even in a modern interior.

Over the years, the old design has undergone a number of upgrades, as a result, many of its modifications have appeared, for example, a heating and cooking stove with a low stove bench. In this case, although the principle of operation of the Russian stove is preserved, the heating of the beds is no longer due to the crucible, but from flue gases passing through many channels. This modification is quite difficult to perform, especially for beginners.

Therefore, it makes sense to consider how the laying of a Russian stove with a bench and a stove in the usual version is made. Only here the heat source is equipped with another function - heating water for household needs. Let's analyze the whole process in order.

Foundation laying

The construction of furnaces, like buildings, begins with the construction of the foundation. Having decided on the design, according to the drawings, they find out the dimensions of the future furnace and dig a hole, whose dimensions should be at least 100 mm larger. The depth and structure of the foundation slab depends on the type of soil, but usually the earth is dug out by 250-300 mm. Then they arrange a cushion of crushed stone 100 mm thick and carefully compact it. A wooden formwork is installed around the perimeter of the pit.

In modern conditions, it is most reliable to carry out the foundation for a Russian stove made of reinforced concrete. First, a frame is knitted from reinforcement of a periodic profile with a cell of the order of 150x150 mm. It is installed in place, after which it is possible to pour concrete flush with the floor surface. If concrete is made by hand, then the following proportions must be observed:

• cement M400 - 1 part;
• sand - 3 parts;
• crushed stone - 7 parts.

Advice. To get a solid foundation slab, it is recommended to cover the bottom of the pit with plastic wrap with an overlap on the formwork boards. It will serve as a waterproofing layer and will not allow the concrete to lose moisture during strength gain.

Usually, concrete gains maximum strength within 24 days, but after 3-4 days, you can start laying, since the concrete strength will already be enough to absorb the load from the laid bricks. To avoid cracks in the load-bearing structures due to uneven soil deformations, the foundations of the furnace and the building should not be connected to each other. To perform an expansion joint between the foundations, you need to leave a gap of 20 mm, which can be filled with a tarred board or foam.

Procurement of materials

To build a Russian stove with a stove and a stove bench, you need a high-quality solid ceramic brick without chips and cracks. Quantity - at least 2000 pieces, excluding the construction of the pipe, the solution will require about 100 buckets. The quality of the latter should not cause the slightest doubt, therefore it is best to purchase a ready-made building mixture in a distribution network, clay from the nearest ravine is definitely not suitable. In addition, the following elements and accessories are needed:

• cast iron stove for 2 burners;
• firebox door 140 x 250 mm;
• blower door 130 x 130 mm;
• grate 260 x 280 mm;
• gate valve with a hole 260 x 240 mm - 2 pcs;
• view with a hole of 220 mm;
• steel water tank 400 x 260 x 280 mm;
• corner, strip and roofing steel.

ordering

Having covered the foundation slab with a layer of thermal and waterproofing (you can use a steel sheet, basalt cardboard, and so on), the construction of the furnace begins. When working, the following masonry scheme is used: the prepared brick is lowered into a bucket of water, then a layer of mortar is applied to the base with a trowel or by hand, and a brick is placed on it from the bucket. Further, moving it in different directions, the brick is rubbed, and then pressed down with force. Excess solution, knocking out, is removed with a trowel.

During laying, you should constantly check the horizontal, vertical and accuracy of the corners. Do not forget to measure the diagonals of the rectangle, they must be equal. The following tools are used here:

• level;
• plumb;
• square;
• rule;
• roulette.

To perform the correct laying, an inexperienced stove-maker will be helped by the scheme and ordering of the Russian stove. Below are drawings and sections of the stove with a stove bench and ordinal schemes for laying and placing fittings.

Important! The solution for fastening the structure is used everywhere except for the hearth. There, the bricks are tightly fitted one to one so that there are no drops.

Schemes of brick rows

The laying of the arched vaults of the Russian stove is carried out using special wooden templates - circled. They are made in advance in the form of a frame of two semicircular shields with flooring from boards. It turns out a kind of formwork for bricks, as shown in the figure:

Wedge bricks for the vault used to be produced in finished form, now they have to be cut from whole stones. The best option is a machine with a cutting wheel for stone, on which the cut will turn out to be even and accurate. Do not break the old tradition, use only an odd number of stones for the vault.

Chimney diagram

The last stage is the construction of the chimney. This is a separate science, and in order to better understand it, the chimney diagram for a Russian stove is shown below:

The furnace chimney, in addition to the pipe itself, has the following elements:

• cutting: needed to provide fire insulation from the wooden floor of the house with a thickness of 1.5-2 bricks;
• otter: this is the node of the passage of the chimney through the roof;
• head: a multi-purpose element that improves traction, provides strength and so on.

Important! During the construction of the chimney, the brick is installed with the smoothest side inward, all mortar is carefully removed from the cavity of the pipe. Nothing should interfere with good traction, this is an important factor for the normal functioning of the Russian stove.

Masonry is made in accordance with the scheme from the same mortar as the stove, but only up to the roof level. There, the solution must be changed to cement-sand, resistant to environmental conditions. The section of the chimney of the furnace, located in the attic, is recommended to be plastered with a layer of clay on a metal mesh so that condensation does not form inside. Ideally, the outer part of the chimney should also be insulated, for example, with basalt fiber.

How to properly heat a Russian stove

First of all, the oven should be properly dried after construction, a painstaking approach is needed here. In the morning, a small flame is kindled on the grate and heated for 1.5-2 hours. If the stove smokes, then this means that the air plug must be removed from the pipe. This is done by kindling a small fire from wood chips on a view. The procedure is repeated in the evening, and so on for a week, gradually increasing the amount of firewood.

The fact that the stove has dried well is evidenced by the disappearance of wet stripes on the bricks and the appearance of uniformity in color. In the future, small cracks may appear in the design of the furnace, which need to be slightly deepened with a sharp object and then repaired with clay mortar, as shown above.

Note. If additional finishing of the Russian stove is planned, then it can be done only after complete drying.

The daily firebox of a Russian stove has its own characteristics. When ignited, a fire made of logs unfolds near the mouth, and when it flares up, it must be deftly pushed into the crucible. This requires a certain skill, as in throwing firewood. Usually logs are simply thrown into the furnace, and then pushed into the furnace with a poker. Kindling is best done gradually, without heaping a lot of fuel at once. Raw wood should be pre-dried by laying it in the oven.

The one who thinks that making a Russian oven with your own hands is simple is mistaken. A person who is ignorant of the furnace business is not recommended to undertake construction. More simple stoves - Dutch, Swedish - and they require at least a little practice. It is best to start building a Russian stove with the help of a master, and not everyone will do it, but only one who has successfully performed such work.

Russian stove - unique invention our people. More than one generation has used this device and how cooking place, And How bed, And How heater.

Progress does not stand still, and modern interior solutions are very different from the color of distant times.

But the love for the Russian stove did not pass even after several centuries. Increasingly, we meet in private homes a new version of the familiar device - a mini-oven.

Pros of the Russian mini-oven

Each stove maker has his own proven and unique scheme for building a brick mini-oven.

Photo 1. Scheme of a Russian brick mini-oven. The device provides for the possibility of cooking.

Pros of using it:

1. high level of heat transfer;
2. security;
3. durability;
4. minimum energy consumption;
5. multifunctionality;
6. compactness.

Schemes, product dimensions

Exist two main types of devices to which every master is guided.

1. The stove of the first type is suitable for heating small spaces. It has the following dimensions: 51 by 51 cm- base area 175 cm- length. For laying out the firebox, fireclay bricks are used without fail. It is fireproof and very durable, which avoids cracks. Red brick is perfect for facing the product. The design has a pipe and an oven for cooking. For greater strength and good efficiency, the cabinet is usually made of steel sheet.

Photo 2. Scheme of a Russian brick mini-oven with a stove bench and a place for cooking.

1. The second version of the mini-oven does an excellent job of heating small rooms, the device is also equipped with a hob, so this design is often chosen for country houses and private houses. The chimney is laid out in one brick. This is done so that the exhaust fumes and gases enter the chimney correctly, bypassing the oven on the right and left sides. In terms of area, this structure is 51 by 51 cm, its length is 215 cm. Refractory bricks are used for laying the firebox.

Attention! When laying out the firebox, you can not use several types of bricks. Each species has a different expansion temperature, so this docking will lead to cracks.

Making a device with your own hands

You can make a mini-oven yourself, the main thing is to follow the instructions clearly.

The choice of the design of the furnace: with or without a stove. Blueprints

When choosing a heating structure and materials for its manufacture, take into account location of the future device. If you decide to build it in the country, in a house with low ceilings, a stove with a stove is perfect. Few people live in a suburban area in winter, so this option is optimal to maintain normal temperatures and cook food.

Photo 3. Drawing of a Russian mini-oven made of bricks, indicating the parts of the device and its dimensions.

For a private house, a mini-oven for heating is perfect, equipped with an oven. Each dwelling usually has electric or gas appliances in order to cook all kinds of meals. But there is also a third version of the mini-oven, which, due to the special layout, both heats and replaces the kitchen. Quite often, housewives use such buildings as dryers for fruits and berries.

Photo 4. Drawing of a Russian brick mini-oven with a hob. Also presented is the ordering of the stove, containing 24 stages.

materials

For the manufacture of a classic mini-stove (popularly it is also called the "housekeeper") would need:

1. red brick for cladding - 265 pieces;
2. fireclay bricks for the interior of the structure - 135 pieces;
3. grate in the form of a lattice 250 by 400 mm;
4. firebox door size 200 by 300 mm;
5. two valves;
6. blower and cleaning door 140 by 200 mm;
7. steel sheet 500 by 700 mm;
8. ruberoid 600 by 1000 mm;
9. 9 buckets clay;
10. 19 buckets sand.

The brick of the future construction deserves special attention. Its main parameters: quality and fullness. The usual dimensions of a working brick are - 250x120x65 mm. It is best to purchase a special oven brick. It costs a little more than usual, but there will be no doubt about the quality of the resulting product.

Important! Raw wood cannot be used to build a furnace, because its hygroscopic structure is even in a dry room crumble and become unusable. The silicate product is also not recommended, due to the fact that it is not heat resistant.

Chamotte brick for laying out the firebox can be replaced quartz. But at the same time, it is worth remembering that the latter does not come into contact with alkaline substances (lime). High-quality fireclay building material has a brown-yellow color, without any inclusions.

To prepare the solution - take 6 buckets of regular clay, 3 buckets of refractory. It is very plastic in work, more pliable and can withstand fairly high temperatures.

You will also be interested in:

Required Tools

To build a stove-housekeeper you will need:

• pick;
• oven hammer (it is convenient for them to remove the dried solution);
• shovel for mixing clay;
• building level;
• pliers for installing iron elements;
• chalk for marking;
• plumb;
• mortar trowel;
• sieve for clay and sand;
• two deep containers: one for the solution and the other for water.

Site preparation and foundation construction

Before starting work, you need to choose a place where the future mini-oven will be located. There should be no flammable materials, such as wooden materials, near it.

The housekeeper is built on a solid foundation, not on the floor of your house.

The distance from the foundation of the house to the stove is maintained at least 15 cm.

At the construction site, a part of the floor covering is dismantled, a brick base is laid out, which concreted and thoroughly dried.

Only after making sure that the base is completely dry and does not have any cracks, you can put a piece of roofing material on it for waterproofing and pour a layer of sifted sand. It is on this layer that the first row of masonry will be installed.

Step-by-step production of the Russian stove-housekeeper, ordering

We mix the solution: 1 part water+ 4 parts clay+ 8 parts sand. In order for the product to look aesthetically pleasing, sand and clay are sieved.

1st row kilns usually consist of 12 bricks. Using the level, we check the strictly horizontal arrangement of the row. We apply a thin layer of mortar on it and install a blower door.

3rd row is responsible for the heating function of the furnace, so it would be advisable to use fireclay bricks.

In the 4th row- arrange the bricks with an edge.

When laying the 5th row it is necessary to use refractory raw materials and form a place for the grate. Here they put a grate on the solution (at a distance 4-5 mm).

Starting from here (up to row 15), the furnace channel is formed, so the masonry is made of fireclay bricks. Firebox door installed on the 6th row.

On the 16th row for greater strength, we make a “pillow” from a solution of clay and cement.

17 row- the basis for the retube is created.

18-19 row- the beginning of the chimney.

20-25 row - construction of a chimney. The brick is laid out with a gradual decrease in clearance. At the end, there is only one brick left.

27-29 rows connected horizontally on both sides and overlapped with a metal sheet.

28 and 32 row- installation of valves.

33-35 row- section on half a brick and the formation of a pipe.

Photo 5 Provides for the use of several types of bricks, contains 32 stages.

Possible difficulties in manufacturing

When building a furnace, difficulties and incomprehensible moments very rarely appear. Quite a lot of questions arise for beginner stove-makers at the preparatory stage, during the drawing up of the product.

For adequate heat transfer, the height of the ceiling is necessarily taken into account, but the ceilings in each house are different, therefore, when working with a preliminary drawing of the building I.V. Kuznetsov proposed the following scheme: per 1 sq. m. stands out in warm weather 0.5 kW, and in frost 0.76 kW. The material from which the firebox is made is taken into account. Steel sheets burn out quickly, for durable use it is better to purchase cast iron material.

When buying material, there are also many questions. There are special formulas that allow you to calculate the number of bricks in a row. But unfortunately, the error in them is as much as 15% , so it's easier to count the brick of one row manually and multiply by the number of rows.

Photos of finished projects

Photo 6. Russian brick mini-oven, equipped with a hob. Suitable for home heating and cooking.

Photo 7. Brick oven housekeeper: equipped with an oven, a door made of heat-resistant glass is mounted in the combustion chamber, which allows you to admire the flame.

Photo 8. Russian mini-oven in the interior of the kitchen. The cladding of the product is made with decorative tiles and plaster.

Useful video

Watch a video in which a Russian mini-stove is modeled using computer graphics, and its order is demonstrated in stages.

In order for the oven to be useful and save money, it is necessary to monitor its condition. Even a slight crack increases the loss of efficiency. For better heating use only dry firewood for kindling. Be sure to close the view.

Major cleaning of soot is carried out once- in summer, in winter they manage with insignificant cleaning, but at least 3-4 times per season. The accumulated soot reduces the heat output of the device. In the event of a malfunction of the view, valves or doors, it is impossible to melt the stove, because it is they who control the draft and help the carbon monoxide evaporate.

Despite all the nuances in the construction and operation of a mini-oven, it acts as excellent heating device, and can compete with modern gadgets in the speed and delicacy of cooking many dishes. No wonder our ancestors considered the stove to be the soul of the house and put the structure in the middle of the hut.

In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. This is the heating of rooms in the winter, at the same time it is hot and healthy food, the possibility of preserving the crop due to drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water. It cannot be argued that the Russian brick oven is an ideal device. The disadvantage of the furnace as heating is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

1. Opechek- used for storing and drying wood.
2. cold stove- a small recess in which various dishes are stored.
3. Shestok- the area on which you can put the pot.
4. Under- This is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope to the mouth, for easy movement of heavy dishes. It needs to be polished well.
5. cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood, and cooking. The vault of the furnace also has a slope.
6. retrumpet- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located above.
7. Dusnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
8. view- cover door.
9. Bed- a horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.

More common at present is the improved Russian stove.
It differs by heating the underfloor part, due to which the heating of the room becomes more comfortable.

For laying the furnace part, refractory bricks made of fireclay clay are used. The rest of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, such as doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in a certain amount. You will need the following items:

1. Doors: furnace and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation for the chimney.
2. Grate;
3. Metal gate valves;
4. View;
5. Furnace damper;
6. Water box;
7. Plate;
8. Steel strips.

To bookmark certain details - arches and vaults - easily collapsible templates are needed. They are produced from wooden and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike the usual one, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Mortars for laying furnaces are selected depending on:

• If a solid brick of the M150 brand is used for masonry, then apply clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the furnace with special ceramic tiles;
• Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
• When using fireclay bricks, use refractory clay solutions;
• In the interval of the attic, brick pipes are laid using cement-sand mortar;

Typically, the furnace is located near the inner wall, which has a shallow foundation. For the independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the furnace is placed against the outer wall, on a deepened strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and make sand and gravel backfill with careful tamping. Further, furnaces are arranged with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called retreat. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the oven in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends of the lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on logs on both sides and pulled together with special bolts. Further, the opening is framed with special wooden racks. Be sure between them and the future furnace there must be a circulation gap, also called cutting. A gap should be provided under the wall in the foundation of the house, which will be equal to the width of the base of the furnace on each side.

Laying a Russian stove with your own hands ordering

The main requirement for laying the furnace is tightness. That is why only whole bricks without any cracks go to the oven, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. It is not necessary to achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the furnace with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase the deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay exfoliates and clogs the channels inside the furnace, which will be quite problematic to clean. The following methods are currently in use:

• bricklaying- with this method, the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
• half-brick laying- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
• masonry in a quarter- i.e. the brick will be laid on edge.

The dressing of the seams will be due to the use of alternately tychkovy and spoon masonry in the corners or not a full-sized building material.

If a ceramic brick is used, it must first be soaked, as it will "pull" all the moisture out of the solution.

Be sure to remove excess mixture during the laying process, and especially on the inside of the oven. Lay the outer walls of the furnace “in brick”, and the inner walls - “in half a brick”. The laying of the rows is the order of the laying in each subsequent row. Due to this process, anyone can build a Russian stove.

First row they are made of burnt brick, it absorbs moisture a little. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.

Second row begins with the laying of the walls of the furnace, the cleanings are laid in front and on the left side. On the front part on the right side of the furnace, as a rule, an ash pan is formed.

AT third row purges on the left are laid without mortar. On the front side, blower and cleaning doors are installed. The doors are mounted using burnt steel wire, it is installed in cuts in bricks and fastened with masonry mortar.

AT fourth row the channels are blocked.

On the fifth row install the grate of the grate of a small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used, it is also placed without the use of mortar.

AT seventh row the grate of the stove furnace is being installed, the walls and the first firebox are being mounted. The right wall must be reinforced with a steel strip.

AT eighth and ninth row the laying of walls and internal channels continues. The doors of the furnace stove and a small firebox are mounted.

AT tenth row vaults of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the furnace. And the smoke circulation channels are led into the crucible.

AT next row a steel corner is mounted on the leading edge of the masonry, a plate is installed on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.

AT twelfth row the laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins with the use of refractory bricks. The burner damper is installed. To the left of the stove begin to form the lower part of the chimney.

With 13th to 16th row the laying of the walls of the furnace continues and the mouth of the crucible is blocked.

AT seventeenth row y begins a certain narrowing of the arch of the crucible and the expansion of the main chimney. And the back wall of the furnace is strengthened with a steel tie.

AT 18th row the roof of the crucible will be blocked, and the laying of the front wall of the furnace, which forms the overtube, will begin.

AT 19th row the front wall of the crucible is strengthened with a screed, the walls are being installed above the crucible, forming a certain space for backfilling.

AT 21st row the stove is closed, and the overtube will gradually narrow towards the chimney.

The Russian stove is a classic of the genre, as any experienced stove-maker would say. Indeed, this is a multifunctional device where you can cook food, keep warm on the couch, admire the open flame and even dry your clothes. But! The most important thing is the heating of the house, because the stones, even after the end of burning, retain heat for a long time and retain comfort.

A real Russian stove in the general sense is a fairly large object, traditionally occupying a quarter of the kitchen. We propose to do the same, but several times smaller. After reading our article, you will find out what a do-it-yourself mini Russian oven is and how many advantages it has over its big “sister”.

The mini Russian stove is really miniature, its standard dimensions are 100x130 cm, and therefore it will be appropriate even in a small one-room house.

Most often it is used for cooking, because it takes up little space, melts quickly, allows you to place 2-3 items on the burners at once, and you can also bake bakery products in it at the same time. And even after the end of the firebox, the stove keeps the temperature for several more hours, which makes it possible to keep the food warm.

The device of the Russian stove and the principle of operation - video

It is not difficult and very fast to build such a universal heating unit - in just 2 days you will get a miniature Russian stove with your own hands. The main thing is to understand the order and choose high-quality materials.

Features of the Russian mini oven

The first distinguishing feature is the design of 2 fireboxes, where the main one is placed in front, and the small one is behind, a cast-iron stove with 2 burners of different sizes is superimposed on them. In the spring and summer, food is cooked mainly on a small firebox, which is very convenient. Does not require a lot of fuel, easier to clean and maintain.

Fireboxes are designed not only for cooking, but also for heating. Moreover, they can work simultaneously in two modes or separately, and the fuel can be placed directly into the cooking chamber.

Since the Russian housekeeper stove does not imply the presence of a stove bench, the channels through which hot gas is supplied to the fireboxes and carbon monoxide and smoke are discharged outside are also special. As soon as the furnace starts to heat up, the hot gas first goes into the first compartment of the chamber, after which the series of supplies goes to the wall. Then it goes to the cooking chambers (burners), and the smoke and carbon monoxide go through the upper openings of the cooking chamber and immediately into the chimney.

Construction of the stove

You can not philosophize much and order a ready-made copy, especially since a simplified mini Russian stove is found in many heating appliance stores. But we still advise you to make a Russian oven with a stove with your own hands. It will serve you for several decades, it is enough just to clean the chimney every 2-3 years.

Even a miniature Russian stove is always installed on a solid foundation. It is not enough just to strengthen the floor, you need to install a new one made of brick or stone or pour concrete and reinforce it.

What materials will be needed

• red brick - 750 pieces;
• chamotte clay;
• sand;
• felt or asbestos fiber for insulation;
• roofing material on the bottom layer also for heat and waterproofing;
• fasteners;
• metal corner, sheet and steel wire;
• grate - 2 pcs.;
• doors for the combustion chamber and blower - 2 pcs.;
• damper - 1 piece;
• valve - 1 pc.

... and tools:

• building level;
• spatulas;
• Master OK;
• drill with a nozzle mixer for mixing the solution;
• buckets;
• sieve for sifting clay and sand.

Do not forget about the tools: spatula, trowel, drill with a mixer. Additionally, have buckets or tanks, a sieve on hand. To make the oven even, use a level.

ordering

• 1 row - the wall of the Russian mini oven is laid out with whole bricks with the obligatory dressing of each seam.
• 2-5 rows - the blowers of the main and small fireboxes are laid out, separately the columns on which the brick arch will be placed. On the same rows, you can immediately attach the doors to the blower.
• 6th row - bricks are cut under a cone directly above the grate, and a separate grate is placed in each firebox.
• 7-8 rows - doors are fixed on both fuel chambers.
• 9 row - the beginning of the narrowing of the outlet channel at the exit from the main firebox. The partition, in turn, expands.
• 10th row - it is built under so that an outlet channel with a width of about 75-80 mm must necessarily pass along the back wall.
• 11 row - the construction of the hearth continues, and the front wall is additionally fixed with corners.
• 12th row - the channel is closed with a cast iron hob.
• Lay out the 13-16th row completely according to the drawing, and on the 15th, make the connections of the side walls from a metal sheet.
• 17 row - the connections of the side walls are also duplicated with a metal sheet and a base is made for the overtube. Additionally, grooves are cut for the strips.
• 18 row - the beginning of laying the hob, which is traditionally made in the form of an arch. It rests on bricks at an angle of 10 degrees, which are additionally fixed with clay mortar.
• 19 row - the ventilation duct is laid and the laying of the chimney begins.
• 20-21 rows - laid out according to the drawing.
• 22-24 rows - the bricks are cut down under the prefabricated channel, which should turn out to be square.
• 22-25 row - the construction of the chimney continues with a gradual decrease in the clearance so that in the end only 1 brick is obtained.
• 27 row - according to the drawing
• 28-29 rows - connected by a horizontal channel vertical on both sides, and closed with a sheet of metal.
• 30-32 row - according to the drawing.

As you can see, the mini Russian stove "Housekeeper" is built quite quickly and simply. There are no complex brick transitions with an increase and decrease in cross-section and channels, there are no separate chambers, as in a traditional oven, which is why it is fashionable to build it in just a few days.

Once again, but already clearly, how to build a mini Russian stove with your own hands - video

1. Buy only high-quality bricks and clay

Often, in an attempt to save money, negligent owners purchase used bricks, which are not always even and the same in size, and which are extremely difficult to clean from the remnants of masonry material. Chamotte clay is a guarantee that the stove will not burst one fine day or evening and will not poison the inhabitants with carbon monoxide.

1. Before you fold the Russian stove with your own hands, study the drawings. They are compiled by experienced craftsmen who have been laying various stoves for many years and know exactly which order will be the best.
2. The first 3-4 times do not melt the stove at full strength in order to detect errors in the masonry in time.

We do not say that they must be mandatory, but even specialists sometimes make mistakes, let alone beginner stove-makers.

1. Observe safety precautions

This applies to both the actual construction of a Russian stove with your own hands, and the period of operation. This is direct contact with fire, and, as you know, jokes are bad with it.

In general, Russian stoves for the home are absolutely safe. Its design is provided in such a way as to prevent the loss of coals from the firebox or sparks when laying firewood. Even if you don’t know how to use the Russian mini oven at all, in extreme cases you simply won’t be able to kindle it, but you won’t cause any harm to the house or its inhabitants.