Often, land plots involve only the construction of only vital buildings. The small area of ​​the site, the use of every piece of land for planting or thought out simply does not leave room for additional buildings. In this case, there is only one way out for lovers of bath procedures: the construction of a mini-bath. What is a mini-bath for a summer residence, how to build it and what is needed to build it - let's figure it out.

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Mini-bath for a summer residence. Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of a mini-bath is the area of ​​​​the site occupied during its construction. The second, no less important parameter is the cost of building a mini-bath in the country.

Floor covering. The floor boards in the steam room must be laid with a gap. This is necessary in order to ensure the free exit of moisture. In some cases, it is better to make the flooring removable.

Installation of roofing material. To cover the roof, you can use a metal tile or.

Installation engineering: stoves in the steam room, water taps and other equipment provided by the project.

There are ready-made projects of frame mini-baths on the net, in addition, it is possible to create such a project by order in construction organizations. But sometimes, in a do-it-yourself mini-bath project, projects of frame and combined baths are simply combined.

We offer you to watch a video of building a frame mini-bath quickly and inexpensively:

Important! When purchasing lumber, pay attention to its quality. Lumber for construction must be well dried and free of geometry defects.

A summer bath from boards is a variant of a frame bath, for which it is used for sheathing. Like a frame one, a do-it-yourself bath from boards is built quickly and easily. The construction technology is similar to a conventional frame bath, with one exception: instead of OSB panels, a board is used for exterior cladding. The budget savings are quite significant, especially if you use an unedged board for sheathing. At the same time, such a structure is less durable than with the use of composites and has greater heat losses than assembled using panels.

When building a bath, attention should be paid to heat and vapor barrier. The better materials are used in construction, the longer the steam room will last.

Laying the board on the wall must be overlapped. This laying order will make the wall more dense and reduce heat loss during use.

Before you build a bath from the boards with your own hands, you should take care of the selection of lumber. For cladding the inside of the bath, it is better to use coniferous wood (pine or larch), while for outer cladding it is better to use aspen. It is quite low, which will allow the bath to keep warm longer. Particular attention should be paid to vapor barrier. Dampness is the worst enemy of wood.

Usually mini-ovens for small volumes are metal structures designed to generate steam. As an example, consider the stove for the bath Varvara "Mini".

Sauna stove Varvara Kamenka mini

This is a wood-burning stove with overall dimensions of 48x66 cm and a height of 88 cm. The steel structure of the firebox itself is covered on top with a casing, inside of which there are convection channels. The air, heated in the area of ​​the firebox, exits through the holes in the casing into the heater, thereby quickly heating the stones. As a result, the stove heats up very quickly, warming up a small room in a very short time.

In addition, there are also simpler designs of stoves in which the heating of the heater is carried out directly by the action of heat from the combustion of fuel. Using in the steam room, you need to provide a place for storing fuel, or a shed near the bath.

With small volumes of a steam room, in some cases it is advisable to use electric sauna stoves and electric heaters.

On a note! Installing a heat exchanger on the chimney will allow you to quickly warm the air in the steam room. But this option is possible with the appropriate dimensions of the bath.

Mini-pools for a bath

Additional installation in the bath will expand the functionality of the bath and add comfort. It is worth noting that it is better to initially foresee the laying of a pool in the bath project, since mini-pools for a bath require summing up water supply systems, draining water, and heating.

For this reason, embedding a pool in a finished bath is a rather troublesome and costly business. There are several types of pools designed for installation in a bath:

• Stationary. In this case, the pool is initially laid in the bath project, a foundation pit breaks out under it, the walls of the pool are concreted and covered with a decorative coating. This type of pool is mainly used for full-sized bath buildings.
• Font. A metal or plastic structure designed to be installed in a pre-prepared box. To put it into operation, you only need to connect the font to the water supply system.
• Portable pools. Metal structures with plastic trim. As well as the font, they are installed in a prepared bed, after which they are connected to the water supply system.

Pools can be equipped with water heating systems, hydromassage equipment, but in this case, the help of qualified specialists is required to connect them.

Mini-sauna for a summer residence

From the bath is distinguished by the type of steam and temperature. In order to make a sauna out of a steam room, it is enough to install an electric steam generator, an electric heater or a wood-fired sauna inside the steam room. When using a steam room for a sauna, interior decoration from one type of wood is recommended: pine, linden or alder. A mini-sauna in the country should be as closed as possible, almost sealed. Particular attention should be paid to its thermal insulation. This is necessary to maintain a high temperature inside the sauna for a long time, with minimal energy consumption.

portable sauna

How to build a small bath for a summer residence with your own hands

Before erecting, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the projects of already built baths and choosing the most optimal option. Projects of mini-baths for giving with their own hands (both frame and timber) are quite widespread, and it is not difficult to find them. Before you build a small bath with your own hands, you need to decide on the type of bath, the material for its construction and location.

Do-it-yourself foundation on screw piles. This technology is used to speed up the construction of not too heavy buildings, other architectural structures. In the article you will find step-by-step instructions for the construction of the structure and useful advice from experts.

The main requirement during construction is accuracy. Everything must be done calmly and without haste. This will allow you to build a bath in a short time without excesses in work.

Helpful advice! When purchasing materials for construction, focus on the medium and high price range. Purchase soft materials for roofing, insulation and a vapor barrier according to a pre-calculated estimate, + 10% on the stock of material.

An important point in the construction of a bath is not to forget about. For a steam room of a small volume, a channel in the wall is sufficient; for larger rooms, a fan will be required. This is necessary in order for our small bathhouse in the country to be a place of comfortable rest, and not a peddler of miasma.

Article

What could be more pleasant, after a long day of work in the garden, to visit a steam room with a fragrant fresh broom? Immediately relieve fatigue and back pain will subside! But not everyone knows how to build a bathhouse on a garden plot with their own hands, economically and in compliance with the rules. We will teach our readers to assemble an inexpensive, but high-quality bath in compliance with all technologies.

Bath on the garden plot should be not only practical, but also beautiful.

For the garden plot choose a small bath of inexpensive material. You can assemble a structure from a bar or frame, so you do not have to carry out a massive foundation. The main thing is that the bath on the garden plot meets a number of requirements:

• includes a steam room for 2-3 people, a dressing room, a small place to relax and a dressing room;
• a wood-burning stove, since not every site has electricity, and firewood is always available;
• the firebox can go into the dressing room, so the room will warm up at no extra cost;
• the steam room and water should warm up quickly;
• can be used not only in summer, but also in cool times in spring or autumn;
• located at a remote distance from the house and not closer than 1 m to neighboring plots and plantings;
• minimum costs for materials and finishing, according to the principle of "sculpting from improvised materials";
• all work can be done by hand.

To comply with all the rules, you need to make a plan. You can use the standard one, which can be taken on any commercial site. But it is better to prepare an individual project, especially since it will not have to be approved by the architectural companies of the city. It is good to choose projects with a small veranda. In winter, the veranda can be used as a tool, and in summer it will serve as a recreation area. Comfortable benches and a table are placed on the veranda.

The project of a small cottage for a garden plot.

If the bath will be used as an additional room, for example, a guest room, then projects with an attic are chosen. In early spring, you can sit in the attic yourself, you don’t have to heat the garden house.

How to economically select materials?

You can buy everything new for construction, but it will be more economical to use improvised materials: old window frames, doors, everything will be used. You can make a good water heater from an old boiler, cook a stove from KAMAZ disks. Wood can be taken in the forest, old deadwood. But initially it is necessary to take permission from the local forestry, the issue price is from 50 rubles / m3. Agree cheap.

Another plus is that the dead wood will not shrink as much as kiln-dried wood. Felling is carried out on straight trees with less rot damage. The lower part is sawn off, as the tree starts to rot from the root. The length of the log is taken from 2.5 m, with a section of 18–25 cm. The bark and knots are removed from the logs, and skinned. It will be difficult to take out a larger diameter from the forest on your own, as well as living wood.

Bath house assembled in the country with their own hands from dead wood.

To work, you will need the following tools:

• chainsaw, for example, Makita;
• electric planer, the speed of working with a log depends on its quality;
• grinder with nozzles for metal and stone, for the foundation and furnace;
• axe;
• improvised tool (screwdriver, screwdriver, pliers, etc.).

If you decide to buy a new building material, choose the most inexpensive one, for example, a simple cut timber of natural moisture, round timber or foam blocks. Linden lining is used as a finish, the price of which starts from 120 rubles.

For the roof, they purchase inexpensive roofing material, slate or ondulin. Issue price from 70 rubles.

Mineral wool, ecowool are purchased as a heater. but you can collect and dry moss from the forest. So you save at least 15,000 rubles.

After the purchase of materials, you can begin construction.

The main stages of the construction of a bath on a garden plot

All construction takes place in several stages:

1. Foundation installation.
2. Wall assembly.
3. Roof, floor and ceiling.
4. Insulation and vapor barrier.
5. Finishing external and internal.
6. Accomplishment.

Let's consider each stage in more detail.

Installation of the foundation on the garden plot

To build a foundation, you need to purchase material. It will depend on the choice of foundation. The most inexpensive option is to fill in the posts or perform a tape that is not recessed.

The foundation for a bath is easier and cheaper to do with your own hands.

Work is performed in the following order:

1. For the posts and the tape base, markings are made and the top layer of soil is removed.
2. Drilling wells or digging a trench. The depth should not be less than the freezing of the soil. A sand cushion is laid at the bottom of the trench and carefully rammed. Then a layer of gravel is poured. A rebar frame is simply inserted into the wells.
3. For the tape, formwork is made to a basement height of at least 20 cm.
4. In the formwork, strapping is made of reinforcement and binding wire.
5. Concrete is being poured. It is important to fill in one step, since the base must be monolithic.
6. On hot days, the foundation is shed with water 2-3 times a day for a week, until fully ripe. After a week, the foundation is opened and allowed to dry completely. Without watering, the base will dry out unevenly and may crack.
7. Remove formwork.
8. Columns in loose soil can be overlaid with roofing material before pouring. Reinforcement is left on top for further strapping.

At the stage of installation of the foundation, it is necessary to take care of the drainage system and the foundation cushion under the stove. For an iron stove, there is no need to make a massive base, since the construction is 3-4 times lighter than a brick one.

After drying, the foundation must be waterproofed from above with roofing material in 2 layers.

Assembling the walls of the log house

The walls begin to be assembled from the bottom strapping. It is made of moisture resistant wood, such as aspen or larch. A log or beam is taken with a larger section and laid on the foundation. From below it is necessary to lay thin sticks in two rows, they will ensure uniform shrinkage of the walls.

The log house is assembled on a ready-made and waterproofed foundation.

You can assemble the box with a release or in a closed corner. The corner connection with the release "into the bowl" is considered warmer, but it is easier to assemble it "into the paw" with your own hands. Between themselves, the timber or logs must be fastened with wooden dowels. They can be made independently or any type of wood.

Moss or flax insulation is laid between each log or beam. When laying logs, pay attention to cracks, they are hidden inside the masonry. Compensating cuts are made in the timber before laying to reduce cracking.

Laying is carried out to the top log according to the plan. Door and window openings can not be cut immediately.

It is important to treat any lumber with an antiseptic composition, for example, Senezh, before laying any lumber. Do not use old engine oil or a mixture of copper sulfate for processing, at high temperatures they will emit toxic fumes.

When the box is assembled, proceed to the roof truss system.

Assembling the truss system of the bath

The roof for a bath in a garden plot is chosen of the simplest design, single-pitched or gable.

A simple gable roof for a bath is perfect.

The shed is laid on the Mauerlat, on the one hand, on the other hand, it can be laid directly on the upper log. The gable is assembled on the ground and lifted up by separate elements.

Roofing material is used as a roof for a bath in a garden plot. If the log house was assembled from wood of natural moisture, then we do not recommend immediately laying slate or ondulin. The building is left to shrink for 1 year. It is necessary that the bath stand for all seasons with a rough roof, only after that they lay a fine one and proceed to install windows and doors.

Windows and doors

In a small bath, there is no need to make many windows and doors. It is enough to install a window in the dressing room, for ventilation and doors to the steam room and to the entrance. Fire safety doors must open from the inside.

Before installing windows and doors to the bathhouse, a pigtail is made from a 40x20 mm timber in the garden. The pigtail is mounted to prevent distortions and jamming of windows and doors in any wooden structure.

Finishing the bath in the garden

After shrinkage, the log house must be caulked. Dried forest moss is used as an economy. Caulking is performed around the entire perimeter of the log house, punching each log from both sides. It is necessary to caulk the bath starting from the bottom, rising along the entire structure. If you first caulk one wall, then the second, then the bath will warp.

Inside the bath is hydro and vapor barrier with foil insulation. The material is laid end-to-end, gluing the seams with metal tape. A crate is made on top, on which lining or lindens are sewn.

Inside, the bath is trimmed with clapboard and a canopy is mounted.

The canopy and benches for a bath in the garden can be made with your own hands from boards. From above, the structure is sheathed with the same clapboard. For convenience, hangers and a mirror are hung.

The stove is thermally insulated, the chimney outlet is laid with asbestos. Water can be drawn from a homemade well or a well can be improved next to the bath.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the garden plot is assembled quickly. But it will take free time and diligence. If there is neither the first nor the second, then it is better to use the services of professionals who will assemble a small steam room in a matter of days. And what can be a hand-cut bath in a garden plot, look at the video:

It is impossible to imagine a vacation in the country without a bath. If the owners come to the dacha mainly in the summer, then there is no need for expensive brick baths - you can get by with a simple frame structure, but always with a sink, a rest room, a furnace and a steam room.

The topic of today's article is a do-it-yourself frame country bath.

Note! The design described here is installed on a pile foundation, since it is suitable for most regions of the country.

You should start by preparing everything you need. For the construction of a country bath you will need:

• piles (preferably with anti-corrosion coating), 12 pcs.;
• corrugated board (about 75 m²);
• timber 20x20 cm, 2 m³;
• moisture resistant OSB, 50 sheets;
• board 15x5 cm, 5 m³;
• board 15x2.5 cm, 2 m³;
• sand, 30 tons;
• perforated corners;
• roofing felt, 12 rolls.

Note! Do not buy all the small building materials at once, as well as those that are necessary for the subsequent stages of work. The fact is that during the construction season, various promotions are held all the time, allowing you to significantly save.

Stage 1. Installation of screw piles

Note! Piles must be screwed in so that they reach the depth of freezing of the soil.

First, test drill to determine this depth. Then mark the corners of the future structure and make small holes there, then screw in the first four piles.

This is considered the most time-consuming stage in the construction of a frame bath. Having screwed the piles in the corners to the required depth, place the rest symmetrically around the entire perimeter at regular intervals.

Stage 2. Zero level

After installing the piles, draw the zero level, that is, the line of the base of the bath. Mark the desired height (about 50 cm) on one of the corner piles (draw a line around it with chalk). Then cut off the unnecessary section of the pile that is above the line.

Next, put a board on the end of the cut pile and, armed with a building level, draw a line on the next one. Cut all the piles in the same way, as a result, a perfectly even base for the strapping should come out.

Note! To facilitate the task, you can fix a laser pointer in the upper part of the building level (next to the determinant) and use it to monitor the horizontalness of the future base.

Clean the places of cuts with a grinder after cutting.

Stage 3. Base for the frame

Weld metal plates around the perimeter of the future foundation to the end of each of the piles. The dimensions of the plate are 20x20x0.5 cm. Make mounting holes for the bolts in advance.

At the end of the welding work, cover the columns with construction tar, let it dry (usually it takes no more than three hours). This completes the construction of the foundation. Subject to all recommendations, it will cost ten times cheaper than tape.

Stage 4. Sand pillow

So that under the bath it is always dry and vegetation does not appear, it is necessary to make a pillow of sand. To do this, build a geomembrane casing around each pile and back it with an appropriate amount of sand. Next, roll out the roofing material over the entire area with a minimum overlap of 5 cm and cover it with a 30-cm layer of sand. Fill the sand with water for compaction - after that it will settle by about 1/3.

As a result, only 30-centimeter sections of piles are above the surface. This distance is more than enough for a quality ventilation system.

Note! About 30 tons of sand are required to create a pillow.

Stage 5. Base for the frame

For the base, use a wooden beam 20 cm wide (it will be enough for a bath with an attic). Lay them on pre-welded metal plates with a quarter joint. For fastening, use anchor bolts, and lay building corners in the corners, which will increase the rigidity of the structure.

Note! An important condition for the durability of wooden structures is the use of an antiseptic that prevents the formation of fungi. This is especially true for rooms with a high level of humidity, such as, for example, a bath.

Therefore, cover the base with an antiseptic in two layers with an interval of a day.

Stage 6. Installing the frame for the walls

As mentioned earlier, OSB will be used for sheathing (standard sheet dimensions are 120x250 cm). Bring the racks of the frame to the width of these sheets. Install the posts in 120 cm increments, measuring the distance from the center of each of them. So the sheathing sheets are joined closely, no additional trimming is required.

When installing poles, measure their verticality. Strengthen each pillar with a pair of jibs, painting all fixed parts with an antiseptic.

Lay a horizontal screed on the racks, using the same beam for this. Dip the end parts of the racks into the beam at least ½ of the thickness and secure with anchor bolts.

It remains only to install the logs for the floor. Attach them to the frame so that the ends rest against the beam, and grab the building corners from below.

Note! Due to the fact that the height of the boards is 15 cm and the width of the timber is 20 cm, lay the second board on top of each board, placing it on its side to the previously fixed one.

Lay the logs in increments of 60 cm, since OSB sheets 1.2 m wide will be used for the subfloor. As a result, each sheet will have two support points at once.

Stage 7. Wall decoration

Pull the walls with OSB sheets to frame in order to avoid loosening of the structure in strong winds. Do this before you start building the roof.

With a high-quality output of the verticality of the racks, the wall cladding will pass quickly. First, cover the structure with plastic wrap for wind protection, then screw the OSB sheets in the corners with self-tapping screws to fix the racks as firmly as possible. Next, wash the rest of the sheets, start with solid ones, then proceed to the joints, door and window openings.

Instead of OSB, you can use imitation lining - this is a more affordable and easy-to-install material for the outer skin of the frame. Install the sheets in a horizontal position with a slight overlap (5 cm), glue all joints with adhesive tape. Another option is a block house (decorative imitation of a log house).

Stage 8. Roof

First, build the rafters and floor beams. Use boards 50x150 mm for this, install them “on edge” and connect them together. Reinforce the lower part of the rafters with "kerchiefs" made of the same material, and connect from above with a ridge beam with a section of 12x10 cm. Each beam should extend 40-50 cm beyond the structure on each side - these will be roof cornices.

Note! Rafter structures are easier to assemble on the ground and lift them ready-made.

For the battens, use boards 2.5 cm thick, installing them directly from the ridge beam. Next, cut the protruding ends of the boards and install the roofing material. The best option in this case is chocolate or red corrugated board.

It remains only to hem the cornice, for which it is better to use a plastic lining. Cut the sheet of material in half and fasten it with self-tapping screws to the protruding part of the crate so that one part of the sheet is placed close to the outer surface, and the second - to the wall. Fill the remaining space with lining pieces of the appropriate length.

Note! To cut plastic lining, use a grinder with a power of no more than 1 kW with a metal circle of minimum thickness.

PVC dust can be harmful to health, so cut in a ventilated place and do not forget about personal protection - plastic glasses, a respirator.

Stage 9. Warming, interior decoration

To insulate the floor, use foam plastic 10 cm thick, for walls - mineral wool, also 10 cm. To do this, build a wooden crate with a step equal to the width of the insulating material. You can even make the step a little smaller (about 1-2 cm) for better fixation of the material. For the crate, use a 5x10 cm timber.

The main thing in a frame bath is to do everything so that the mineral wool does not settle. To do this, cover the walls with sheets of aluminum foil with a large overlap (20-25 cm), and lay galvanized corrugated board (with pre-curved edges) on the floor.

After that, it remains only to sheathe everything with boards, nailing them to the logs and the crate, assemble and install the shelves (at a height of 75-80 cm).

Note! For ceiling sheathing, be sure to use linden (other species “ooze” resin at high temperatures). If possible, use linden for the floor and walls.

A few more words about the oven. It is undesirable to make an overall brick structure, because it takes up a lot of space. Instead, it is better to equip a metal stove or install heating elements, as in a Finnish bath (if electricity was supplied). If you chose the first option, then the corner in which the furnace will be placed must be finished with galvanized steel sheets for fire safety.

Stage 10. Ventilation

For ventilation when lining, leave two holes 20x20 cm - one near the stove, about 30 cm from the floor, the second - on the opposite wall, 30 cm from the ceiling. This is a classic Russian bath scheme that will ensure efficient air circulation and prevent the smell of mold.

Stage 11. Windows

For window systems, use plastic double-glazed windows - this is the easiest and most convenient option to use.

If you follow all the instructions, then the finished frame bath will become not only a place of rest, but also a source of pride - after all, it was built with your own hands.

Video - Construction of a frame bath

A summer garden bath is the dream of any summer resident. Here you can have a great rest after a working day in the garden, here you can gather friends, and finally, here it is just convenient to wash and perform hygiene procedures. To build your own bath, one desire is not enough: knowledge is needed, including quite specific ones, and we will talk about them.

What you need to know

Bath type selection

The most significant issue, and significant both financially and in many other respects, is the issue of choosing the type of structure. You can place equipment and premises in a wooden frame, a frame-panel building, a brick house, a building made of concrete blocks, etc.

Each type of building requires a different approach, from the foundation to the method of insulation and vapor barrier, from fire protection measures to the choice of furnace. As you and I understand, with the advent of new conditions or changes in the old ones, the price of construction and the complexity of the work inevitably change, so you should think carefully here.

We will not try to impose our opinion on such serious issues, but if we look at examples of already built objects, we can notice that one way or another, two types of structures prevail - wooden and brick. Let's look at them in more detail and try to evaluate from the point of view of the feasibility of building on a summer cottage.

Structure type	Advantages	disadvantages	Peculiarities
brick	Brick construction is much more reliable and durable; Brick has a higher fire safety; Brick walls perfectly retain heat; The durability of the building can exceed a hundred years	It takes more time, and, consequently, firewood to warm up a brick room due to the high heat capacity of the material; After a long absence in an unused bath room made of bricks, unpleasant dampness and cold arise; The construction of a brick structure will require high costs, long periods and great efforts.	From the inside, the room can be finished with a wooden clapboard, such an entourage will become indistinguishable from a wooden counterpart
Wooden	The tree, when heated, releases a complex of essential oils and resins that create a pleasant smell and a unique atmosphere, and some species have a healing effect; Wooden construction is more traditional and natural; A room made of timber warms up faster; Wood retains heat better; Wood has better vapor permeability and creates a healthier balance between moisture and oxygen saturation; Wood is easier and faster to work with; Less financial outlay required	Wood is subject to rotting and biological corrosion, therefore it is much more afraid of moisture and requires appropriate processing, which still cannot guarantee adequate durability; Wood burns, and given the stove heating, this is a serious danger; A rather big problem for an unprepared builder is to select and select the material, taking into account the conditions of its operation.	Requires experience with furnace equipment, as it is a fire hazardous object

Important!
Among other things, you should consider different options from this position: what is closer to you personally in terms of your professional skills and experience?
After all, building a brick structure or an analogue from a bar is a very different thing in terms of the technique of the work performed and the tools used.

If we talk about bricks, then, without a doubt, everything is somewhat more complicated. Here we see a lot of “wet” and hard work, the material is not so pliable, and in case of an error it simply bursts, leaving through cracks on the walls. However, this does not mean that you do not need to have any skills to work with a tree.

The main idea is to choose such a construction technology, where the basic skills necessary for mastering were as clear as possible for you personally and mastered as quickly and easily as possible. It depends on the personal experience of each person, and it is impossible to speak with full confidence about the superiority of any one method.

But still, if we turn to practice, we will see that the same frame technology is easier to master by amateurs than capital stone construction. Therefore, if you do not have any experience in construction at all, consider this option, although a frame bath is an expensive thing due to non-standard conditions of humidity and temperature conditions.

In addition to the material and type of construction, you should choose its dimensions, configuration and layout. Will it be a steam room with a dressing room or will there also be a utility block, a pool and other premises? This question should be answered immediately.

Important!
In our opinion, the minimum configuration is quite enough for giving, that is, the bath should have a steam room and a dressing room.
All other needs can be met in the house or utility rooms on the site.

Choosing a place for a bath

In the photo - a steam room traditionally located by the reservoir.

Another important issue that needs to be resolved in advance is the choice of the location of the building on the site, taking into account all its features and your personal preferences. However, in any case, you will have to choose between “I can” and “I want”, therefore our recommendations are idealistic in nature, but in practice you should choose a certain “golden mean”.

An ideal place is considered to be a hill near a reservoir. This may be a high bank of a river or pond, as well as a natural elevation next to an artificial lake or pool.

Important!
It is not necessary to build a steam room on a low bank because of the too high level of groundwater and the danger of floods.

The elevation will simplify the organization of the drainage and sewer system due to the natural slope, but it should be remembered that objects on the rise are visible from afar. If you do not want to show neighbors and casual passers-by the details of your intimate side of life too often, it is advisable to think over a hedge or find a quiet place.

Important!
The steam room should be within direct line of sight relative to the house, as this will make it possible to monitor the process of the firebox and the behavior of children near the firebox during forced absences.

In general, such buildings are usually placed in the back of the site, or at least in its depth. The option is unacceptable when, at the entrance to the territory of your estate, the first thing you encounter is a bathhouse, and not a house.

It is also undesirable to locate the structure near public roads: it is not good to breathe dust and exhaust gases during rest. In addition, it will not be entirely comfortable for you to be on public display or within earshot of strangers.

Now let's talk about neighbors. If you want to stay on friendly terms with them, but the place for the bath is chosen near their site, ask their permission, or rather, just discuss this issue with their participation. Of course, you are the owner of your territory and no one has the right to tell you, but if you show attention to people, it will make them kinder, and the attitude towards you will change for the better.

In addition to moral, ethical and psychological issues, let's not forget that the steam room smokes and is an unsafe object, so a conversation with neighbors is inevitable. It's also important to remember that if the neighbor's house and your steam room are nearby, you can be a nuisance with the noise of fun and stove smoke.

Important!
It is advisable to place the bathhouse on the leeward side relative to the prevailing wind, so as not to smoke the area during the heating of the furnace.
At the same time, smoky neighbors are also not an option.

Some technical points

Even at the stage of preparation and planning, you should solve several technical issues:

• What type of fuel will the stove run on? If it is gas or electricity, you should find out if the supply system to your site is strong enough to increase consumption or power. If this is firewood, then a place should be allocated for harvesting (cutting) and storing firewood;
• What technology will be involved? If it will be heavy equipment (excavator, crane, etc.), then you should consider the routes of their movement around the site, otherwise the builders will turn the whole garden around for you, and the garden will not be spared;
• Are there any prohibiting rules adopted in your dacha cooperative or partnership regarding such objects? This can be obtained from neighbors or the administration;
• How will the landscape change? You will have to build a path to the steam room, bring sewerage and water supply, and this is all earthworks that can be poorly combined with the existing one.

Important!
You can and should build garden baths with your own hands, but you should take into account all the risks and losses that construction will entail, and compare them with your capabilities and simple expediency.

Construction stages

If you still decide to build, our instructions will not hurt you:

1. We build a columnar or shallow strip foundation (depending on the soil and type of construction). To do this, we carry out marking, earthworks, put the formwork and reinforcing cage, concrete and wait for the maturation of concrete, taking measures to care for it;

1. We make the bottom trim of the foundation with a beam of 150x150 mm, connecting it into half a tree and fixing it to concrete with anchors. Between concrete and wood we lay 2 layers of roofing material;

1. We expose the vertical racks of the frame from a bar 150x150 mm in the corners, at the intersections of the walls and at the front door. We put the rest of the racks from a bar 150x100 or 150x50 mm in increments of about 1.2 m. We level it and fix it with temporary crossbars;

1. We make the upper trim with a beam of 150x150 mm around the entire perimeter and between opposite posts. We connect in half a tree, fasten to the racks with steel corners or a cut and nails;

1. We build a rafter system, a crate and put a roofing pie. The roof must be insulated from steam and moisture in accordance with the conditions of the steam room (should be taken into account when choosing materials for insulation and finishing);

1. We put floor logs from a board 150x50 mm, fill the empty space with mineral wool with a layer of 10 - 15 cm with reliable vapor and waterproofing. We lay moisture-resistant plywood on top and make a screed, you can also sew it up with a board made of waterproof wood;

1. We sew up the walls from the outside with OSB-3 plywood for places with high humidity, we lay dense stone wool between the frame posts, which we close with a windshield from the outside, and from the inside with a waterproofing membrane for a bath. Then we sew up the walls from the inside with waterproof plywood or clapboard;

1. We insert windows and doors, perform facade work. It is best to use ventilated systems such as wood siding or blockhouse, you can also sheathe clapboard;

1. We install furnace equipment, supply water supply and sewerage, ensure the outflow of water from the shower and steam room, make ventilation and chimney.

29.05.2019 13 046

Do-it-yourself bathhouse in the country - how to do it quickly, reliably and inexpensively?

It is always difficult and intricate to erect any buildings on the site. A do-it-yourself bath in the country requires planned accurate calculations, detail and utmost care. You have to rely on your own strength, given the funds in your wallet, because the financial side of the issue plays an important role. You can reduce cash costs, perform work without errors, if you take into account the nuances and features of construction. Our article will help you build a building on a summer cottage, disassemble the main types of structures, you can also see visual photos.

Choosing a place for a bath on the site

The initial stage in the construction of a bath on a garden plot is to determine the location. To correctly determine the space, to avoid errors and inaccuracies, recommendations will help:

• Information about the quality and composition of the soil in the country will be useful, it will help determine the type of foundation for building, design a drainage system, and avoid flooding. The construction of a large bath is recommended to be done taking into account the geological data on the soil. If necessary, make geological surveys of the site, revealing a complete picture of the composition of the soil, groundwater, soil aggressiveness to steel and concrete. If there is no need for analysis, select a flat area for construction without slopes and mowing;
• Consider the distance between buildings. The correct location of the bath on the site is regulated by the main document SNiP 30-02-97, which displays complete information about the rules for planning and building garden and household areas. The set of rules for the design and construction of SP 11-106-97 will help to understand the development, coordination and approval of documentation for the development of territories of horticultural associations of citizens;

in the photo - the distance from the fence at which you can build a bath in the country

Attention should be paid to sewer facilities, to consider the correct placement of the bath together with the drainage system. The lack of centralized wastewater disposal is the reason for the arrangement of an autonomous sewage system.

Having decided on the construction zone, plan and prepare the bath project. The standard approach to construction involves the presence of a waiting room, a steam room, a shower room, and a rest room. The amount of square meters of the bath room is calculated based on the number of people having a rest. Depending on the planned costs and preferences, everything is selected individually, at will. Rooms can be spacious and large, small, cozy.

sauna in the country, size 4×4

A significant part of the baths is built with a size of at least 3x4 meters. A large plot allows you to rebuild baths of large sizes, including the construction of two-story buildings. For small garden plots, sizes of 6x6, 6x4 meters are acceptable, there is enough space for equipping the stove and premises, and a toilet room is provided if desired. The dimensions of the steam room, shower cabin, dressing room can be different. The steam room can be made smaller, freeing up square meters for a rest room and a sink.

in the photo - an approximate project of a bath for a summer residence

Baths of small sizes may consist of a dressing room and a steam room, you can not make a rest room, organize a veranda or terrace if the bathhouse is used only in the summer. The main argument in planning bath rooms is ease of use and interior appearance. Use space sparingly, don't make a big break room or steam room if it's not necessary. Free square meters in the country can be used for the construction of utility rooms.

After family approvals, prepare a general drawing of the bath, indicating the location of the stove, roof, foundation, floor and ceiling diagram. Projects can be sketched and drawn by yourself, or you can use the available rough plans found in open sources.

Necessary materials for construction

For the construction of the bath, various materials are used, brick, timber, cinder blocks, everything that is for self-made construction of the structure. The material side of the issue leaves the choice up to you. The tree is an environmentally friendly material, perfectly retains heat, has a pleasant aroma. The foundation for a wooden building will be cheaper than for a brick bath. Brick is stronger and more durable than wood, fireproof, requires a stronger foundation. An excellent alternative to wood and brick will be wood concrete, lightweight, heat-conducting, frost-resistant, does not burn.

In addition to the main material, for the construction of the bath you will need: materials for interior decoration, floor and ceiling boards, vapor barrier and waterproofing, roofing, cement, pipes. The list is approximate, but enough to calculate the main financial costs, to understand what materials to take cheaper. Do not forget that in the process of building a bathhouse in the country, you will need a lot of elements for interior decoration, which you will have to spend money on.

The stove is the heart of the bath, its arrangement needs to be thought out at the planning stage, it will be difficult to make adjustments in the built room. Decide whether the furnace will be purchased or built independently, then purchase the necessary materials (brick, stone). Not everyone can fold a good stove, you may need the help of a master, then you will have to spend money on work.

Step-by-step instructions for building a bath

• The construction of a do-it-yourself bath in the country begins with the cleaning of the territory, the landscape is leveled, the thin top layer of the earth is cleaned off to fill the future foundation;
• A pit is dug, or pits for the installation of supports, if a columnar foundation with a grillage is installed. The base for the bath is selected depending on the type of soil, the structure being built, climatic conditions and your own wishes;
• Laying a sand cushion at the bottom of the strip foundation trench reduces the load on the base, pours it in an even layer and compacts it. The sand needs to be moistened, the sandy layer will gain maximum density. Crushed stone bedding will cost more, but will be more durable;

in the photo - the foundation for the bath

• The formwork is built from edged boards and the fundamental foundation is reinforced. Reinforcement will allow concrete to adhere well and give strength to the foundation;
• Foundation ventilation is installed simultaneously during the reinforcement process. Usually plastic pipes with a diameter of 11-15 centimeters are used, mounted on four sides of the building. Air exchange is necessary to protect the building from decay and mold;
• Foundation pouring. A solution is being prepared from crushed stone, cement, sand (3: 1: 3). Concrete is poured gradually, monitor the settling density. There should be no air gaps, if necessary, knock on the reinforced mesh, the concrete will settle better;
• Wall construction. Bath construction will depend on the quality of the material and the work being done. Inaccuracies in the calculations can lead to crooked corners and walls, then in the future the installation of windows and doors will be difficult;
• Roof. For a small bath, the roof can be made single-pitched, the design is easier to manufacture, and the area will be less shaded. Snow and rain from such a roof will roll worse due to the small slope angle. A gable roof will cost more, it will look better. The advantage of a gable roof is also in the attic, which can be equipped and stored with unnecessary things or brooms to dry;
• Conducting communications. Before laying floors, be sure to install pipes and a sewer system so that later you do not open the flooring and do not redo

in the photo - installation of the floor in the bath

• Floors. Floors can be made of wood, concrete. The concrete floor is laid out with tiles, the wooden one is better to make it leaky. Floorboards with a small gap are nailed to the installed lags. The floor is made with a slope so that water flows into the hatch, then through the pipe into the sewer system or treatment pit;
• Insulate, install windows, doors, plumbing, electricity. Do not forget about grounding, otherwise the installed equipment will pinch unpleasantly;
• Install shelves in the steam room, make a supporting structure from timber, nail boards that can be located at your discretion.

A bathhouse in the country, built with your own hands, will certainly become the pride and dignity of the owner. The difficult process will be appreciated by family members and friends. The pleasure of bathing in your own sauna is incomparable!