Is it possible to build a house from a bar with your own hands? Cast aside doubts - this is quite within the power of a person who knows how to handle a carpentry tool. It is very easy to use, economical and environmentally friendly. It's a pretty versatile stuff. From a bar you can build a wonderful summer house in a summer cottage, and if it is additionally insulated, then it will be possible to live in winter.
How to build a house from a bar? Like any business. Everything starts with a dream. It is necessary to make a project of the house and start construction. When developing a project, it will be better to stick to rectangular shapes.
How quickly the house will be erected largely depends on the timber that you purchase for construction. If everything is in order with finances, you can buy glued or dried timber. It will take much less time to build a house from glued laminated timber. If you buy raw timber, it will take much more time. Having erected the frame, it will be necessary to let it dry. This will take approximately a year. Only when his house shrinks can construction be completed. Choosing the second option, you lose time, but save a lot of money.
Every house stands on a foundation. A log house is no exception. It is necessary to take his choice with all seriousness, taking into account the landscape of the area and the type of soil. Foundations can be tape and columnar. The tape type is considered more preferable. It is somewhat more expensive than columnar, but more reliable and durable. With this type of foundation, it is possible to build a cellar. And this is an undoubted convenience of any home.
Building walls and roof
The erection of walls from a bar is no different from the assembly of a designer. The use of profiled timber will significantly improve thermal insulation. Corner joints are made in two ways: "in the oblo" and "in the paw". The connection "in the oblo" is that the ends of the timber go beyond the plane of the walls. If in the future you are thinking of decorating the house decoratively, then you should not do the connection “in the cloud”.
The walls are based on laying out the first crown. The first crown is no less important than the foundation. It is necessary to cover the foundation with waterproofing and carefully align horizontally. It does not matter which method of corner connections you will do in the future. Always connect the first crown at the corners “in half a tree”. Then the joints are fastened with dowels, covered with a sealant, and then the rest of the crowns are laid out. Each subsequent row must be supplied, without fail, with a sealant. Moss or tow is usually used as a sealant.
Together with the first crown, the foundation of the floor is laid. It's better to make it double. A layer of insulation will make the floor warm. At the second stage of construction, after shrinkage of the house, the finishing floor is laid.
Nagels
An important role in the process of assembling walls from timber is played by dowels. Their task is to connect the bars together and prevent them from twisting. Nagels are most often made with a diameter of 3 - 4 centimeters from oak or birch wood. Instead of wooden pins, it is possible to use a metal tube, but this is quite expensive. For pins, 3 beams are drilled with a through hole in depth in a checkerboard pattern and inserted effortlessly. Instead of wooden and metal pins, it is possible to use 25-30 cm nails. In this case, it must be remembered that its hat must necessarily be recessed 3-4 centimeters deep into the timber, since shrinkage of a house built of timber is inevitable.
Roof
Often the second floor is planned in the attic, and this requires roof insulation. There are two ways here:
Install a temporary roof, for which cover it with roofing material and wait for the house to shrink for a year. After a year, build the final version of the roof of the house from a bar.
in the first year to complete its construction: having made steam and waterproofing, insulation and roofing material on the roof.
In the second option, additional costs in the form of roofing material, but an undoubted gain in time - we move into a new home.
The main mistakes during construction
It takes a lot of courage to build a house from a bar with your own hands. This is not a joke and usually a person trusts his construction company with a good reputation. If it is decided to build on its own, then it is necessary to foresee all possible errors. As in every business, there are "pitfalls" here.
Foundation savings
The foundation of any home is the foundation. At the stage of its laying, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all accepted building and technical standards. Any attempt to save money can lead to the destruction of the house. A foundation erected with deviations from the established rules can “revenge” by subsidence, the occurrence of micro and macro cracks and the destruction of walls. Subsequent repairs will negate all your savings.
Therefore, contact an experienced designer. He will make a project and make all technical calculations. Only in this case, you can be sure that the house will stand and delight your family.
Design errors
With self-calculation of the project, there is a threat of unprofessional design. For the same reason, one should not strongly demand significant savings in construction from the developer of the project. Based on repeated experience, it has been established that the attic gives a large increase in living space, but at the same time does not lead to a significant increase in the cost of construction.
Including a basement in a house construction project, you do not significantly increase its cost, but significantly improve the quality of life in this dwelling. Try to make the house proportional. The abundance of small rooms in a large house and vice versa will make living in it not very comfortable. Consider zoning in advance. You, most likely, will not like it very much when smells from the kitchen soar in the bedroom.
Other errors
The choice of roofing materials for the roof. In this matter, it is necessary to combine our desires with the compatibility of all other types of building materials. The design of the roof itself and the climatic conditions of the building site are taken into account without fail.
Errors in the engineering equipment of the house and its electrification. Before installing various installations that ensure comfort in the house, contact the energy supervision organization. They will tell you the maximum power consumption of electricity in the house. By violating this point of construction, you endanger the lives of your loved ones.
Landscape design. It is not necessary to consider the landscape of the site as something secondary. Thinking through it must be done simultaneously with the design of all buildings located on the site. This will create a single ensemble of home and nature. It will help to foresee the lighting of rooms in advance and accurately fulfill all land standards.
Mistakes in choosing stairs. Not an unimportant moment in the arrangement of a house with an attic is the choice of stairs. For a private house, you should not choose a ladder with a width of less than 35 cm. An angle of more than 30 degrees is not convenient for the elderly members of your family. Consider also the fact that it is desirable to make the dimensions of the stairwell large. This will make it easier to lift things to the second floor of the house. Think carefully about the installation location of the ladder itself. If you make a mistake with his choice, then in the future it will be problematic to do this.
Poor quality treatment with antipyretics and antiseptics. It rains on your house, the sun dries it, various molds, fungi and microorganisms attack your home day and night. All this harms the house from a bar. Take care of him. Do not forget to carry out a comprehensive and high-quality treatment of all lumber with antipyretic and antiseptic solutions. This work will need to be carried out every year. Carefully treat all areas of the house where wood comes into contact with concrete or is exposed to precipitation.
Take your time with the installation of doors, windows, interior decoration. Keep in mind that in a wooden house, the installation of doors and windows is carried out in a special way. For this, a special installation method has been developed that prevents breakage and distortions of windows and doors. It is somewhat different from the usual way of producing such works. For houses, during the construction of which a bar of natural moisture was used, before starting the interior decoration of the premises of the house and installing doors and windows, it is necessary to wait for the bar to dry and the house to shrink. This process usually takes 9 to 12 months.
Video How to build a house from a bar with your own hands
Our country has centuries-old traditions in the construction of wooden houses. For a long time, there was a deep stagnation in this direction, but in recent years, interest in wooden houses has shown steady growth. Here we cover the basic questions about how to build a . It is almost impossible to do this alone, but you can completely become the leader of a group of enthusiasts from friends, acquaintances and family members.
Preparation for construction
Building your own home is the most responsible business, so you should not start it without careful preparation. Before you make the final decision to build, you must complete the following steps:
- select and prepare a site;
- draw up a project or working sketch with the layout of the building;
- choose the material for the walls and calculate its quantity;
- calculate the operating mass of the building, which can be taken in the amount of the total weight of wall materials plus 250 kg per square meter of floors and 120 kg per square roof (we wrote a separate article ““ regarding calculations);
- determine the required bearing capacity of the foundation, for which the resulting value of the total mass of the building is multiplied by the safety factor in the range of 1.3–1.5.
For an approximate estimate of construction costs, the cost of wall materials is taken as the basis. To it is added 15-20% for the cost of assembling the walls. The same percentages, but already from the full cost of the log house, are thrown over the roofing. The cost of the foundation is added to the amount received.
The approximate amount of expenses for will help you soberly assess your possibilities for erecting a building under a roof, when it will be possible to take a break in construction and guarantee its safety. This is all the more necessary for wooden houses, since in most cases they need time to shrink.
To perform all the above works, engineering training is desirable, which will help to make more accurate calculations. This is where the help of experts comes in handy. An alternative may be the purchase of a finished project - in this case, all of the above issues have already been resolved. One way or another, you need a result with specific numbers and drawings (sketches), without which you cannot proceed to the construction itself.
Timber house foundation
Do-it-yourself log house start building from the foundation. Taking into account the fact that wooden buildings are several times lighter than brick houses, this gives a chance to save a lot on the zero cycle. Due to the relatively low weight of a wooden building, a strip foundation of the smallest possible width with the lightest reinforcement will suit you. Here you should focus on the thickness of the walls plus 5–7 cm of stock in each direction.
The fundamental issue in the construction of a strip foundation is the correct choice of the depth of laying. If you do not want to spend your time looking for the exact answer, how to do this, add 10–15 cm to the freezing depth of the soil in your area. This value is designed for the most insidious heaving soils. However, for the chance to save money - do some trials. For example, on dry sandy soil, the deepening of the foundation will be half as much, and so will the costs.
In order for the construction of a wooden house to meet your expectations, try to follow the basic rules of construction, on which the quality of work depends primarily. The device of the strip foundation is performed in the following order:
- the fertile layer of soil is removed from the cleared area;
Do-it-yourself foundation
- carry out the marking of the foundation according to the project;
- dig trenches to the required foundation depth so that later it would be convenient to waterproof that part of it that will be below ground level;
Do-it-yourself trenches for the foundation
- the bottom of the trenches is covered with gravel or sand in 2-3 layers, each of them is spilled with water and rammed;
Foundation trenches with rubble
- formwork and reinforcement are installed in trenches;
Do-it-yourself formwork for the foundation
- fill the formwork with concrete;
Filling formwork with concrete
- it takes four weeks for the full maturation of concrete at a temperature of 15–20 ° C, the first 5–7 days its surface is moistened;
- waterproofing of the foundation is performed after the full maturation of concrete.
A pile-screw foundation with a grillage will help to reduce the cost of the zero cycle. If you do not need basements and basements, this type of foundation is ideal for building do-it-yourself log houses. Such a foundation can be built in 2-3 days and immediately proceed to the walls, also gaining in time.
Grillage Assembly of walls from a bar
The assembly of walls from timber begins with the laying of a wedding board 50 mm thick along the entire contour of the foundation. It must be treated with an antiseptic. Such a board serves as protection against decay for the lower crown of the log house. If necessary, it can be replaced without violating the integrity of the building. The width of the first crown should be greater than the diameter of the subsequent bars. For example, if the main material of the walls is a beam of 150x150 mm, then the cross section of the first crown should be 200x150 mm.
To build, you must have decent woodworking skills, know how to connect wooden parts, and have a sufficient set of tools at your disposal. When assembling walls, the following rules and recommendations should be followed:
1. Between the crowns of the wall, a heater made of tow or jute must be laid. This rule is valid for all types of timber of any section - planed and profiled, from solid and glued wood. It is very useful to use moss together with these heaters, which has not only thermal insulation, but also antiseptic properties. Moss is an excellent means of preventing the appearance of mold and rot.
Assembling the walls of the house from a bar 2. Each subsequent crown of the wall is connected to the previous pins, which are staggered at a distance of 1–1.5 m from each other, but not closer than 250–300 mm to the edges of the bowls of the timber joints. The cross section (diameter) of the dowels can be 25–30 mm. Their length should be one and a half heights of the timber. These elements are easy to make yourself: for example, square section with pointed ends. The best material for dowels is birch. To build, you will need several hundred of these standard items.
3. The main function of the dowels is to prevent the beam from moving horizontally. They should not interfere with the natural shrinkage of the building, so you need to constantly control the vertical when drilling holes for dowels and the walls themselves. Deviations cause the beams to “hang” during shrinkage, which leads to the appearance of large gaps, violation of the geometry of the walls and other defects.
4.
Assembly on wooden dowels 5. A variety of types of joints are used to assemble corners and splice along the length of the bars. For corners, these can be “half-tree”, “paw”, “straight spike”, “warm corner”, “dovetail” and others. Splicing along the length is performed using a root spike, an oblique lock or “half a tree”.
6. For the selected types of connections, it is necessary to make or purchase templates. They provide precision during operation and uniformity of the geometric shapes and sizes of joints, as well as the depth of cuts. In places where the timber is aligned, there should be internal gaps along all lines with a width of 0.5 mm. They are designed to compensate for displacements during shrinkage of the house and with a set of excess moisture. All gaps are also caulked with heaters.
7. Before starting to assemble the walls, the timber is treated with antiseptics and flame retardants, unless you have bought already processed material. This procedure is performed using a sprayer. The very next day you can work with a bar.
Processing a house from a bar 8. Along with the assembly of the walls, a lag of floor and ceiling slabs, as well as load-bearing partitions, are installed.
Wooden logs Do-it-yourself log house don't build alone. The assembly of walls to a height of up to one meter can be done together. For further work, at least four pairs of hands will be required. First, for security reasons. Secondly, to maintain the pace of work. The most difficult stage in the construction of a log house is the arrangement of window and door openings.
Log mowing
The arrangement of window and door openings in professional slang is called a pigtail or casing. Jambs serve to maintain the size and geometry of the openings during the shrinkage of the building; consist of four parts:
- pairs of sidewalls (left and right) with straight spikes;
- threshold or window sill with grooves for sidewall spikes;
- top strapping with similar grooves.
To install jambs on the sides of the openings along the entire length, a straight spike is made with a height of half the thickness of the sidewalls (risers). In the sidewalls themselves, a groove is cut out under this spike. The clearance rules also apply here, as with the connection of the beam.
When assembling the pigtails, the sidewalls are placed first, then they are bursting with a threshold (sill) and completed with the installation of the upper trim. The internal dimensions of the casing must correspond to the typical dimensions of the window and door unit, taking into account the use of the same insulation as when assembling the walls. Between the upper strapping and the cut of the opening, free space is left for the shrinkage of the building.
The general rule for working with timber is the antiseptic treatment of all fresh cuts that were made during the assembly of walls and other structural elements of the building. After mowing the openings and laying the last crowns, the frame of the house is ready for the next stages of construction. To move to them, it is necessary to wait for the natural shrinkage of the log house, the duration of this process depends on the quality characteristics of the timber.
Shrinkage of a wooden house
The downside of the relatively low price of a wooden beam is usually an increased residual moisture content of the material. In the process of its drying, natural shrinkage of the building occurs. Those wishing to build must consider the following factors:
- you will buy solid wood lumber with a residual moisture content of 20-30%, which will take 12-18 months to shrink;
- the vertical shrinkage of such a material can reach 10 cm, so no further work is possible until the process is completed;
- for the period of shrinkage, the box of the building is protected from precipitation by a temporary roof, the openings of windows and doors are covered with a film;
- drying of wood with a high level of residual moisture leads to the appearance of cracks, violations of the geometry of the timber and other defects, the elimination of which will require additional time and money.
The minimum shrinkage (only 1%, or 3 cm vertically) is given by walls made of profiled glued beams. This material has a residual moisture content in the range of 12-16%, and it takes about three months to shrink. Such indicators do not interfere with the construction of intra-house engineering networks. They are not critical for finishing work, but to get a flawless result, it is better to wait a bit.
Roof, floors and ceilings, window and door blocks
At the end of the shrinkage stage, you should not hope for a uniform upsetting of all crowns and beams. Therefore, you will inevitably have to caulk the cracks outside and inside the building. When choosing the type of roof, it should be remembered that the level of complexity of the roof profile affects its cost. Of all the roofing materials, a do-it-yourself log house will look best with a bituminous (soft) tile coating.
Roofing is a separate and very extensive topic, so here we will limit ourselves to mentioning this process. When the permanent roof is ready, you can proceed with the floors and ceilings, as well as the installation of window and door blocks. Here are some tips and tricks for doing this work:
floors and ceilings must be insulated, but only with non-combustible materials, which, in addition, provide sound insulation;
floors in a house made of timber should be made of solid wood (expensive) or solid boards (an excellent and relatively inexpensive option is larch);
Ceiling floors are sheathed with clapboard, but at the same time try to leave the load-bearing beams open, which will be an excellent decorative element of the interior.
Installation of ready-made window and door blocks should not create difficulties. After that, you can proceed to the final insulation of the openings, including sealing the space above the upper trim of the jambs. Decorative design of windows and doors consists in the installation of platbands and does not require additional instructions.
Exterior and interior decoration
Exterior and interior decoration of a house made of timber is carried out taking into account the quality characteristics of the wall material. For example, expensive glued timber is beautiful in itself. For him, grinding and varnishing is enough. The surface of a planed timber has many more flaws, so a wide variety of materials can be chosen for its finishing, taking into account the actual state of affairs. For example, exterior finishes can be combined with wall insulation.
Do-it-yourself log house with a ventilated facade and a block house finish will be much cheaper to maintain. Inside the building, it is desirable to preserve all the wooden surfaces (otherwise, why bother building a wooden house?). Sanding and varnishing the wooden surfaces of a building, especially given the amount of work, is a very lengthy process. When building a wooden house, it is very important that rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, toilet) are located as close to each other as possible. This will get rid of many potential problems in the near future.
Why do people build their own houses
The desire to build from a financial point of view cannot be called the most profitable, since our time spent on construction also costs money. In addition, you will need help anyway. The motivation here is completely different. A self-built house increases the level of personal self-esteem and makes you a real man. After all, this is one of the three main things for which, according to folk wisdom, we come into this world. The main thing is not to allow it and it will serve you and your descendants for a good time.
At all times, wooden houses were considered the warmest and most environmentally friendly. They have high heat and sound insulation properties. If earlier wooden houses were built from logs, then modern ones can be built from ordinary, glued or profiled timber.
The house, built of timber, has a beautiful and rich appearance, and inside it creates an atmosphere of warmth and comfort. It is very easy to breathe in it, as the tree has good breathability.
Timber differs in manufacturing technology (glued and solid wood), humidity (dry and natural humidity), profile. Profiled and glued beams are the most popular. They have a rectangular or square section.
The profile beam has a certain profile and resembles a log. Its bottom and top sides are machined to fit snugly at the mating points. Glued laminated timber has all smooth sides.
It must be remembered that during operation the tree cracks and shrinks.
Glued beams are deprived of this drawback, since they are boards pre-treated and glued together with special glue. Due to the fact that the beam has a rectangular or square shape in cross section, it is convenient to lay it. The tongue-and-groove fastening system in profiled timber simplifies installation.
Therefore, even a person who has only a little construction experience can build a house from a bar with his own hands. In addition, it is easy to do interior and exterior decoration, as the geometrically correct shape allows you to get smooth surfaces.
Any material can be used for cladding. Due to the tight fit of the beam, the formation of cold bridges is excluded.
Foundation device
Like any capital structure, a house made of timber needs a foundation. The foundation is the basis of the house and the life of the entire structure depends on its quality.
The most suitable for a wooden house is a strip foundation, especially if it is planned to build a basement or cellar under the house.
It is able to withstand significant loads and does not require special equipment during construction. For silty, wet and loose soils, it is better to build a pile-grillage foundation.
It differs from the strip foundation by installing concrete piles in trenches; asbestos pipes can be used as piles. A solid foundation made of a concrete slab is possible, in which case it acts as a subfloor.
Consider the phased construction of the most popular strip foundation with your own hands. First of all, the marking of the future house is carried out: the location of the external walls and the load-bearing internal ones.
To do this, pegs are driven in at the site of corners and load-bearing walls and a fishing line is pulled. After tensioning the fishing line, you need to measure the diagonals, they should be the same. According to the marking, trenches are dug, the width of which should exceed the thickness of the walls by 10 centimeters.
The depth of the trenches should be below the freezing level of the soil, but not less than 60 centimeters. At this stage, a pit is dug according to the size of the future basement or a pit for a cellar. The bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand and gravel or crushed stone, 10 centimeters each. In order for the sand to be better compacted, it must be moistened. Concrete 5 centimeters thick is poured over these layers.
At the next stage, do-it-yourself installation of wooden formwork from a board 20 mm thick is carried out. When constructing the formwork, for strength, struts are placed inside, and from the outside it is supported by supporting boards.
The rods are laid along and across the trench, tying the intersections with wire. After reinforcement, concrete mortar is poured. When pouring concrete, to avoid the formation of air bubbles in it, you should use a cement vibrator or tamp it by hand.
When concrete hardens, it must be constantly moistened so that it does not crack during hardening. Concrete, according to the norms, must harden for at least 28 days. After the final hardening of the foundation, you can begin to build walls.
If you understand that you cannot master the construction on your own, then you can contact the company, order a house according to your or your project. For example, look at these options for pine houses, they are quite well developed, and the experience of the company and the quality of the materials are not in doubt among the professional community.
Watch our video compilation on the topic:
Building walls and laying floors
Before you start laying the first crown around the entire perimeter of the basement, you need to lay a waterproofing layer of their two layers of roofing material. This layer will protect the walls from moisture penetration.
Layers should be laid in the following sequence: a layer of bitumen, a layer of roofing material, then again a layer of bitumen and a layer of roofing material. The width of the insulation must exceed the foundation by 30 cm.
After the construction of the walls begins. For walls, a beam is taken depending on climatic conditions. If frosts do not decrease by more than 30 degrees, then a timber with a thickness of about 150 mm is taken. Otherwise, the beam is taken thicker. The main load goes to the lower harness, so it is advisable to put a larch lining board 5 cm thick under the first crown.
It is needed so that in the future, if repairs are required, not the entire lower crown, but only the wedding board, should be changed.
Boards and all timber should be carefully treated with an antiseptic to protect against decay and harmful insects, as well as fire retardant compounds that protect against burning.
The first crown is laid halfway down the tree, regardless of how subsequent crowns will be laid. There are three ways of corner connection:
- butt;
- half a tree;
- with the help of a root spike.
After the first or second crown, floor logs are laid. If the base allows, then the logs are laid on it, if not, then they crash into the first crown. The rigidity of the structure is provided by lags and a finished floor.
Therefore, the thickness of the finished floor depends on the distance between the lags. The smaller the distance between the lags, the thinner the finished floor can be.
For example, with a distance between the lags of 40-70 cm, a floor with a thickness of 25-40 mm spreads. Logs must be laid strictly horizontally. A rough floor from unedged boards is laid on the logs.
A layer of waterproofing, a layer of insulation, a layer of vapor barrier are laid sequentially on top of the subfloor, and at the end a finishing floor is laid.
In the future, each new crown is laid after the previous one is mounted. A heater is laid between the bars: jute, tow or linen. It is better to use tape insulation of a suitable length, which is fixed with a stapler.
Gasket gasket eliminates the formation of cold bridges, prevents condensation from collecting and mold formation. This allows you to extend the life of the house. The crowns are fastened together with the help of vertical pins - dowels. They do not allow the beam to twist and move.
Pins can be wooden or metal. Metal ones are more reliable, but they are more expensive. Install dowels in increments of one and a half meters. They usually pass through 2-3 crowns, holes 3-4 cm in diameter are drilled in a checkerboard pattern.
When laying the timber, it is necessary to install window and door frames, cutting the timber of the appropriate length. Boxes are attached to the timber with nails.
If there are no boxes, then temporary risers from unedged boards are installed with the dimensions of future window frames. Internal partitions are made only after the construction of the log house and crash into the main walls.
If a two-story house is being built, the dimensions of which are more than 6x6 meters, then at least one partition must be placed on the first floor, which will act as an additional support for the floor on the second floor.
After the first floor of the house is laid out with their own hands, the second floor is covered and the construction of the log house continues.
The ceiling acts as a subfloor on the second floor. Waterproofing on the second floor is not needed. A layer of insulation is made for better heat and sound insulation of the floor. The construction market offers a wide range of floor coverings:
- parquet board;
- linoleum;
- laminate;
- tile;
- carpeting, etc.
Any coating is suitable for a house made of timber, it is important that it is in harmony with the interior of the room and fits the overall design of the rooms.
Roof installation
After the walls are erected, the roof construction begins. Roofs can be single-pitched, gable, broken, cross, hipped and others. The most popular are gable and broken.
Due to their simplicity, they can be easily mounted with your own hands. In addition, the design of these roofs allows the construction of an attic.
Roof installation consists of the following steps:
- installation of the truss system;
- installation of a waterproofing layer;
- device of a heat-insulating layer;
- roofing material installation.
The basis of the roof is the overlap. It must be strong and reliable. Ceiling beams are used for its device. They are stacked in increments of at least one meter. When laying beams, you must use a level to achieve a common plane and perfect horizontality.
Then, with the help of rafters, the structure of the future roof is mounted. It is rigidly fixed with the help of crossbars, spacers and racks. First, a frame of rafters is mounted, which are laid at a distance of one meter between each other. Then the fronts are laid out with a bar or boards.
At the last stage, a crate is stuffed onto the rafters with a step of at least 40 cm. Next, a waterproofing and heat-insulating layer is arranged.
When the roof frame is ready and all layers are laid, you can proceed to the roofing. The main purpose of the roof is to protect the house from precipitation and external mechanical influences, but it must also be in harmony with the appearance of the whole house.
The most popular types of roofing material are metal tiles, slate, ondulin and corrugated board. The cheapest roofing option is to lay roofing material on the crate and cover it with slate sheets on top.
Care and finishing work
If you build a house with your own hands from glued laminated timber, then you can immediately start finishing work after its construction. According to the rules, it takes about two years to shrink a wooden house. During this time, the tree adapts to the climatic conditions where the house is located.
During this period, it is important to ventilate the room all the time in order to let it dry well and prevent rotting. After shrinkage, all cracks and cracks that have appeared on the walls must be repaired with a special mastic and constantly covered over with their further appearance.
After the log house has shrunk, windows and doors are installed and you can proceed to its interior and exterior decoration. Houses made of profiled timber do not need finishing, they are beautiful in themselves.
In other cases, exterior decoration involves painting or covering the entire facade with facing materials. Interior decoration consists of ceiling and wall decoration.
If finances allow or it is not possible to build a house with your own hands, you can buy a ready-made one. Prices for such houses depend on the architectural design and construction.
Their cost ranges from 7 thousand rubles to 20 thousand rubles per square meter. The more complex the project, the more expensive it is, especially if the house is built on an individual project.
Below is a table of approximate prices for houses made of profiled timber:
| House size, meters | Beam 100 × 150 mm, thousand rubles | Bar 150 × 150 mm, thousand rubles | Beam 150 × 200 mm, thousand rubles |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5x5 | 350 | 390 | 450 |
| 6x4 | 450 | 530 | 590 |
| 6x7 | 530 | 610 | 650 |
| 6x8 | 550 | 630 | 690 |
| 6x9 | 739 | 790 | 850 |
| 7x9 | 865 | 895 | 987 |
Houses made of glued laminated timber are about one and a half to two times more expensive. This is due to more complex production technology.
In order for the house to serve for many years, it must be constantly looked after. Renew the protective coating regularly every 3-4 years. Monitor the condition of the foundation, it should not be flooded to avoid its decay. With proper care, a house built of timber with your own hands can become a family nest and will last for decades.
Wood is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials, so the desire to have a wooden house is understandable. Timber structures are becoming popular today, so construction companies offer ready-made options, but they are usually not cheap. Making a house out of timber with your own hands is not particularly difficult, so we will now consider the principles of this matter.
With proper processing and laying of wood, the structure is durable, and in practicality it cannot be compared even with a frame house. Not so long ago, wood for buildings was taken as a single log due to the difficulties in processing it. Now a popular option is timber. We will tell you how to build a house from a bar.
Peculiarities
During construction, timber has a significant advantage over a log - it needs less, but there are also disadvantages. The seams between adjacent products are poorly protected from all kinds of precipitation, so they require special treatment. It is possible to sheathe a structure from a beam with a certain material, but if this is not planned, then a chamfer of 20 by 20 mm must be removed from each beam.
The beam can also be subjected to helical deformation, but modern technologies have helped to get rid of this by creating a profiled beam with complex “protection”. Manufacturers of the material carefully dry it, which helps to avoid shrinkage.
There is also a glued beam with increased strength indicators. Its important advantage is geometric stability, which does not allow the material to change shape under the influence of moisture.
Assembly technology
You can buy a ready-made kit for construction at the manufacturing plant and, upon arrival at the site, simply assemble it according to the plan. During installation, screeds are used - metal studs with a special anti-corrosion coating. They are necessary for reliable fixation of the bars in a certain place.
Assembly order:
- Foundation.
- Geometry check.
- Laying waterproofing followed by installation of the first level of timber.
- Longitudinally the material is fastened with a cross for attractiveness.
- Assembling the beams on wooden dowels with laying insulation between them.
- After the erection of the walls, interfloor ceilings are mounted, including floor beams.
- Rafter system. When developing it, 2% shrinkage of glued laminated timber is taken into account. The design uses sliding fastenings of the rafters.
- Roof covering.
- Internal arrangement. Insulation of the floor and walls, the manufacture of partitions and other works. This stage also includes the laying of engineering communications.
- Terrace. If it is provided, then it is necessary to start laying the floor from a special impregnated board, made with the expectation of long-term operation under the influence of external factors.
- Installation of windows and doors.
Now let's look at the main points of how to build a house from a bar, in more detail.
Foundation
The foundation is columnar, tape and slab. The columnar foundation is one of the simplest. For its manufacture, asbestos-cement pipes are needed, which will need to be inserted into the prepared holes. This type of foundation also has a drawback in the form of a lack of communication between the received pillars. It is more practical to choose its pile analogue, in which the piles are connected by a reinforced concrete slab.
The slab foundation is a reinforced concrete slab on which construction will continue. It will require concrete and reinforcement in large quantities.
The strip foundation is the most common because of the many options with different functionality. For heavy loads, a type of foundation with the same cross section is used, while for light houses, a shallowly buried variety is used, which is cheaper, but not inferior in reliability.
Walls
Walls must be assembled directly on the site. At the corners, the beam can be connected in one of two ways - with and without a ledge. First, the strapping crown is laid on the prepared foundation and connected to half a tree. This type of fastening is used regardless of the selected connection of subsequent rows. The first floor should be about three meters high. When the walls are laid to the desired level, they make the ceiling and start the second floor, if one is planned.
It is impossible to build turnkey houses from timber! First, you need to put a log house from a bar for shrinkage, and only in the second stage, 4-6 months after the draft, do all the finishing work, otherwise there may be big troubles.
materials
The sealant is used very often for wooden houses. Moss, felt or hemp are sold in convenient rolls, so cutting them into ribbons of the desired size is quite simple.
Floor
Insulation plays an important role in laying the floor, so the design is made double. Insulation is placed between the two layers, which also well soundproofs the room. With the help of a cut board, a draft floor is created.
It is customary to hem this material from below, but such fastening is not reliable. To improve the characteristics of the building, a cranial beam is used, which must be attached to the logs.
By following simple rules, you can easily build any shape of a house from a bar. Such structures are distinguished by practicality, speed of construction and aesthetics.
Guide and step-by-step instructions for building a house or a Russian bath from a bar with your own hands.
How much does it cost to build a house?
With this question for many Russians, a new gardening life begins every year. After the newly minted landowner receives a plot of land, he will definitely face a difficult economic situation in our country.
Interesting proposals of many construction companies - to build any structure on a turnkey basis, may conflict with the family budget. Even if you give up architectural sophistication, building a house will be an expensive pleasure.
Often, the costs that will be spent on direct construction will be equivalent to the cost of materials for future housing. All economic calculations will rest on a simple identity: the cost of materials and the cost of work are equal. Therefore, it is better to build a house on your own.
The main difficulty in self-building a house is ignorance of construction operations and the sequence of their implementation.
How to build a house from a bar?
It is better to build a wooden house. After all, wooden structures are very simple. In addition, this material is pleasant and easy to work with. Wooden houses have an excellent microclimate.
You can go further in two ways. The first is to raise money and purchase the entire set of building materials at once. This set includes
- lumber for ceilings and floors,
- timber for a log house,
- edged and unedged boards,
- window and door blocks, etc.
- linen or jute insulation
- roof material,
- glassine,
- glass,
- ruberoid, g
- lift, staples, tow, etc.
The second way is the acquisition of all of the above in parts in accordance with the construction stages.
It is better to go the first way, since it will turn out cheaper in the end. In addition, when buying a complete set of building materials, many companies deliver them directly to the site for free.
It is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the beam, one of the most important components of the future house, are at least 150x150x6000 mm. But, in principle, you can move away from these parameters.
Where to start building a house?
First of all, you need to go to the site, inspect the territory, find access roads (if there are no roads yet), determine the binding of the future house to the area, the type of soil. The place where the garden house will be built is determined according to the plan for dividing the entire territory into separate sections. The position of the house must be agreed with the board of the dacha association.
First of all, it is necessary to draw a plot plan on a sheet of paper on a certain scale, indicating the specific dimensions and indicating on it the place that will be reserved for the house. It is necessary to certify this plan in the board with the seal or signature of the responsible person.
Work on the site should begin with cutting down shrubs, mowing grass, uprooting stumps and cutting hummocks on the territory of the future construction site. For these works, you need to have an ax, a shovel, a scythe, a hand winch, a crowbar and a sledgehammer. For cleaning stumps, it is better to use a sledgehammer.
After clearing the area, you can move on to the next step.
First you need to determine the type of foundation. It is better to choose a strip foundation, since with the help of it from a homogeneous material you can get a finished warm solid foundation with the lowest labor costs. And then you don’t have to do additional work on the manufacture and installation of taps and jumpers. A simplified method of marking the axes should be used, without using cast-offs. After all, the cast-off makes it very difficult to dig foundation trenches.
When digging the foundation, you need to remove the soil that is being removed, otherwise it will interfere with the construction. The fertile layer should be placed in a separate pile, it can be useful in gardening. A very important factor is the depth to which the foundation will be laid. The depth of the foundation will be affected by the level of groundwater, the type of soil and the depth of freezing.
Best of all, a shallow foundation with sand filling the bottom of the trench. To do this, sand was always poured into the trench in layers of 25 cm, rammed and watered. Before pouring concrete, reinforcement was laid on a sand cushion. There must be at least two bars of reinforcement.
Broken and deformed reinforced concrete lighting poles can be taken as reinforcement. With a sledgehammer, you can break the concrete around the reinforcement of the column. Two poles are enough. From one you can get 8-10 reinforcing bars, the diameter of which is 10-14 mm.
Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to straighten it and bend it in the corners. To do this, you can use two railway crutches. Hammer them with ridges to each other into a stump, beam or log so that there is a reinforcing bar between them. The rods that are placed should not be less than 20 cm behind each other. So that when pouring concrete they do not diverge, it is better to tie the ends of the rods with wire in the place of overlap.
In order to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, it is necessary to place stones, pieces of brick, gravel under the bars so that the reinforcing bars are raised above the sand by at least 5 cm. If there is nothing to put the bars on, then they can be hung. The crossbar covers the top of the trench and reinforcement is suspended from it. The trench is then filled with concrete. It is better to purchase ready-made concrete, it is very laborious to prepare it manually.
Foundation pouring
The foundation is best poured as follows. Along the axes of the foundation, metal rods are inserted into the uncured concrete, the length of which is 40 cm. To a depth of 20 cm, these rods are immersed in the base of the foundation. The remaining 20 cm form the base of the foundation. Rods are inserted at the corners of the foundation, and then after 1-1.5 meters between the corners. So the rods will be connected into one whole base with the plinth, and will serve as the basis for fastening the plinth formwork panels.
In warm weather, the surface of fresh concrete must be protected with moss, grass, sawdust and moistened with water, or simply covered with roofing material. Then it is necessary to make formwork panels. To do this, it is better to use edged boards, the thickness of which is 40 mm. The shields will be without gaps, the surface of the plinth does not require plastering. To save money, you can use unedged boards.
After harvesting the boards, you need to collect shields of the length and height that correspond to the plan. When finding the length of the shields, the initial size will be the thickness of the base and the distance between its center lines.
On the gaskets laid out on the ground, the shields are assembled in such a way that their smooth side is turned inside the base. Using conventional blade clamps, the boards are pressed tightly against each other. Linings are nailed to the shields, which are located at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the shield. Shields in height should be 10 cm above the level of pouring concrete.
In any foundation, the plinth at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground must have ventilation windows. They should be opposite each other on opposite sides of the base. To create windows, you need to put asbestos-cement pipes in the formwork, tightly fitting the ends to the shields so that concrete does not pour into them
- Installation of shields begins with the inner contour. Before that, pieces of wire are wound on the pins so that on both sides of the pins there are free ends of the wire, the length of which is not less than 20 cm.
- First, shields with locks are installed. They are temporarily fixed.
- Then shields are substituted for them, the edges of which rest on locks. The ends of the shields are attached to the locks with nails.
- Shields of the internal contour, fastened together, are set relative to the axes of the foundation, and diagonally in the corners is checked.
- The upper and lower struts are nailed, which determine the width of the base.
- Then the shields of the outer contour are attached, their middles are combined with certain marks on the foundation.
- Nails are forgotten in the upper and lower struts. Shields collide with each other. It is checked whether the installation of the shields is symmetrical with respect to the center lines of the base, and the diagonals are measured at the outer corners.
- Then we bend up the nails, and the lower part of the shields is fixed relative to the axes of the base.
- In the upper part of the plinth on the struts, it is convenient to place the bars of the plinth reinforcement. Then the upper part of the plinth formwork is fastened with screeds. Rebar trims are overlapped and tied with wire.
- In such a simple way, a rigid structure was obtained, which is firmly connected to the base of the foundation. Before you pour the formwork with concrete, you need to mark the top line of the pour on the shields. From the most elevated corner on the ground, marking the level of the basement horizon begins. After 1-1.5 meters from the starting point, marks are made and nails are driven through them through the shields. The height of the plinth will be shown by the protruding ends of the nails. They will also be control marks when pouring the base.
To create an ideal surface, it is necessary to mark and constantly control the horizon with a hydraulic level. In hot weather, protect the flooded plinth. About 2-3 days it is necessary to withstand concrete in the formwork. In the process of building a house, he will gain the necessary strength.
Unloading building materials
If during the construction of the house the entire set of building materials was ordered, then it is necessary to think in advance where to unload them.
First you need to remove the window and door blocks from the car. It is better to push other materials back, having previously unedged boards laid out on the ground.
After the materials are unloaded, it is necessary to immediately sort them by type, and lay them out in predetermined places.
It is better to lay out the materials as follows. Most often, the foundation of the house is located in the corner between the boundary of the site and the road.
In this regard, building materials must be laid as follows: against two walls of the basement. It is desirable that the distance from the stack to the foundation be at least 3 meters. In order to prevent warping and deflection of the beams, it is necessary to lay them on even gaskets laid horizontally. The bars themselves can be used as spacers. If there is a lot of space, then the stack is placed in a cage: one row is placed along, the other across.
Boards are laid on linings from scraps of boards. A gap is left between the boards so that the stack "breathes". Each new row of boards must be interspersed with spacers. It is necessary that the planed plane of the board is facing down. For unedged boards, the wide part should be facing down.
All stacks should rise above the ground by at least 20-30 cm.
When all the material is sorted and laid, it will be necessary to cover it from precipitation with roofing material. An important detail: on any lumber, you must immediately remove the remnants of the bark.
Approximate calculation of "accompanying" materials for the construction of a 6x6 house:
- 50 pieces of staples;
- 2 bales of tow;
- nails: 200 mm - 16 kg, 150 mm - 8 kg, 120 mm - 6 kg, 100 mm - 20 kg, 70 mm - 10 kg;
- 7 kg of slate nails;
- nails for external and internal cladding;
- 3 rolls of 15 m glassine for the ceiling and pediment;
- 12 rolls of 15 m of roofing felt on the plinth, on the subfloor and on the roof.
Timber floor and walls
Now it's time to lay the first crown.
Before laying the bottom trim, you need to send two layers of roofing material around the entire perimeter to the base. To do this, a strip of roofing material is bent along and placed on the base.
For strapping, even bars are selected without cracks, jumps and signs of rot. To prevent water from getting into the gaps between the bars, you need to chamfer 10x10 mm on the upper edges. Pairing the bars in the corners is best done with a spike and a groove. The dimensions of the spike should be 4x4 cm, and the dimensions of the groove should be 5 mm larger than the dimensions of the spike.
With the help of rectangular or round pins and 200 mm nails, the bars are joined together in a vertical plane.
It is better to cut curved bars into small pieces and lay them in window and door openings.
It is necessary to pay special attention to the antiseptic treatment of the bars of the first crown. Preheated oil should be lubricated on the inside and undersides of the bars, while leaving the ends clean. The processed strapping bars are laid on the base and fastened together with brackets.
After that, you need to immediately lay out the sexual logs. Bars can be used as a log, which are laid every 1 m. If the width of the basement allows, then the ends of the log are laid on it. If it does not allow, then tie-ins are made into the harness, and the ends of the lag are inserted there.
For large spans, the logs are laid on brick or concrete posts, which are buried 50 cm into the ground. The main requirement is that the position of the lag should be horizontal and the upper layers should have a single plane. For temporary flooring, unedged boards are laid on the logs.
Then you can start building walls.
The entire timber from which the house is built has the same length. But there are also window and door openings in the walls, so smaller bars may be needed. From one large beam, 3-4 smaller beams can be obtained.
Bars are prepared for 2-3 crowns. A uniform, even layer of tow is placed on the lower crown, its thickness should be 1 cm. Tow is twisted outward on both sides of the beam by 5-6. The second crown is placed on tow. Then the tow is put on again, and so on. The bars of the new crown are connected with nails to the bars below and overlying the crowns. The first nails from the corner of the house are located at a distance of 30-40 cm. Further, the nails are driven in after 1.5 m.
Window blocks every 2-3 crowns are fastened with nails to the wall beams.
If there is no window block, but you need to assemble a log house, you can make temporary risers from edged boards, the thickness of which is 20 mm, and the width is equal to the thickness of the log house. With the help of these boards, the beams of the opening are fixed and fastened in a vertical plane.
In this case, nails are driven through these boards into the end of the timber. When building the walls of a house, it is important to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of the walls. The bars must be fastened at the corners so that they do not go out.
A very crucial moment comes during the laying of the beams over the door and window blocks. In order not to pinch them, you need to leave a sedimentary gap, which is equal to 1/20 of the entire height of the log house.
Next, you need to install scaffolding. They are a flooring that rises 1.5-2 meters above the ground, depending on the height of the basement and log house. In forests, flooring is very important. It must support at least three people. Its width must be at least 60 cm.
For the manufacture of scaffolding, any timber can be used - bars, slabs, round timber, edged and unedged boards. If the flooring of the scaffolding sags, you need to make it double. The laying of the beam can be completed when the height between the floor and the ceiling becomes at least 2.4 meters. The last crown must be well checked for elevation and diagonal and stapled at the corners. Now the walls are ready.
Roof
There are many different types of roofs: shed, gable, hip, tent, cross, etc. But in summer cottage construction, gable broken roofs are the most common. Because of their simplicity and manufacturability of installation, they have become very popular. Also, these roofs will allow you to build an attractive and spacious attic.
At the heart of the roof is a reliable overlap. It should consist of ceiling beams that are laid parallel to the facade. For a span of 6 meters in length, it is necessary to use beams with a cross section of at least 150x150 mm. You can support floor beams with a main wall.
The distance between the floor beams should not be more than 1 m. On the upper trim of the log house, you need to mark the places where you need to put the floor beams. Using the hydraulic level, you need to achieve a common plane and strict horizontality. All irregularities that bulge must be carefully cut off with an ax.
It is necessary that the length of the floor beams exceed the width of the log house by two cornices.
Floor beams can be built up using pieces of boards 50x150 mm. At both ends of the beams, you need to cut out quarters 1 m long, insert extensions into them, connecting them with 150 mm nails to the bars. Then, on extensions, for ease of installation, inserts are made with a depth of 3-5 cm.
The prepared beams are lifted to the upper frame of the log house and laid in place on tow and nailed with 200 mm nails. Liners are inserted between the beams. With the help of them, you can fix the beams and protect the attic from the cold. The liners are nailed to the beam and to the strapping with 200 mm nails. The finished floor is covered with unedged boards.
In order to correctly determine the proportions of the roof, you can make a template. It can be crafted on the ground from edged boards. It is better to make a life-size template. So, using the template, you can determine what kind of mansard roof you want to build.
The next step is the installation of the attic frame. It can be done transversely and longitudinally. In both cases, the assembly is carried out on the floor. In the case of the transverse method, the frame profile is assembled from a U-shaped puff and 2 racks and is installed on the desired ceiling beam of the house. The installed U-shaped elements are connected by girders to each other.
The flatness of the walls and ceiling of the attic is difficult to achieve as the curvature of the beams of the ceiling ceilings is possible. Therefore, it is better to use the longitudinal mounting method.
To use this method, it is necessary to free the right side of the floor from the temporary flooring. Racks are laid on the ceiling beams and the upper run is attached to them with brackets. Then the racks are fixed with braces. The span of the frame must be lifted without jerks; at the initial moment of lifting, it is necessary to place bars under the run. After checking the verticality of the racks on a plumb line, fix them with braces.
In order to facilitate installation, intermediate posts are placed under the purlins that have already been raised. The same operations must be repeated on the other side. After the racks with girders are raised and fastened, you need to tie them with the help of attic beams - floor screeds.
When the attic beams are laid and fastened with nails, unedged boards must be laid on them.
Linings assembled according to the template, ridge rafters, crossbars are installed on screeds and fastened with nails. Installation begins with the fronts, and then intermediate ridge rafters are exposed.
Now the attic frame is built.
Roofing of the house
This is a very responsible job that requires skill, knowledge and skills.
You need to start with the preparation of the fronts. Such preparation consists in installing two transverse and two vertical boards, the section of which is 150x50 mm. A window block is inserted into the resulting opening, its horizontal-vertical position is checked and fixed with nails.
Next, you need to tighten the pediment with glassine. It will protect against moisture and protect the house from drafts. Strips of parchment should preferably be overlapped and horizontally, and fastened to the posts with small nails or tacks. Usually the pediment is sheathed with a surge. It is better to sew the lower part of the pediment horizontally, and the upper vertically. This method is technologically advanced and very economical.
First, the vertical upper part is sewn up. It is necessary to carefully monitor that the boards lie vertically, and the ridge of the surge fits tightly into the groove. You can fill the surge, and then cut off its ends, which protrude above the rafters, with a hacksaw.
It is important to nail the drain board correctly. It needs to be nailed with a small bevel between the horizontal and vertical part of the skin. When sewing up the upper part of the pediment, remember that the overlay should always be a groove down. It is also necessary to constantly monitor horizontality.
roof lathing
We can say that this work is simple, but it has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is necessary that the crate protrudes beyond the dimensions of the house. Such a ledge must be made to protect from the fronts of the building from the ingress of storm water. Most often, an overhang of 50-70 cm is made. If the roof in the house is ruberoid, then the size of the overhang does not play a special role.
If the roof is slate, then the size of the overhangs of the gable cornices must be precisely determined in accordance with the total length of the crate. This can be done in a very simple way. It is necessary to lay out two boards parallel to the entire intended width of the roof on the ground. On them it is necessary to place a slate with the desired overlap in a whole wave or half wave.
Then you should compare the length of the entire row with the length of the roof. The difference between the length of the laid out row and the crate is divided into two parts and the required width of the overhang is obtained.
After the overhangs have been determined, two boards are nailed to each rafter. In this case, the width of the cornice must correspond to the departure of each board. Then it is nailed along the board to the ends of these ledges.
For intermediate boards of the crate, natural limiters are obtained.
The crate can be made of unedged boards if they are nailed with the view down. Between the boards there should be a gap of 5 cm. During the laying of the boards, the butt part with the top alternate. Edged boards should be nailed to the lower and upper parts of the rafters.
After the crate is ready, you should immediately sheathe the cornices of the gables. This is a very time-consuming business that requires certain skills, because you have to work in hard-to-reach places and at high altitudes. You can sew up the cornices immediately with shields, which are calmly and easily made on the ground. After they are made, it remains only to raise them to the roof and make room for placing the lining between the boards of the crate.
If the need arises, then it is possible to close the joint of the shield with the boards of the pediment with flashings. Frontal boards should be nailed to the ends of the shields.
Next comes the roof. At the initial stage of construction, it is better to cover the roof with two layers of roofing material. The rolls need to be lifted onto the roof and rolled out perpendicular to the ridge. It is necessary that each next strip of roofing material overlaps another strip by at least 10-15 cm.
The first layer of roofing material can be attached with buttons, and the second - with wooden slats, which can be treated with paint, drying oil, machine oil or an antiseptic. It is better to close the roof covered with roofing material with a galvanized iron sheet along the ridge.
The ends of the roofing material that hang down must be well fixed.
Now the house is under the roof. Further interior finishing work will be carried out. This is the most enjoyable stage in building a house.
Internal finishing works
This stage of construction should begin with the stuffing of the subfloor. First you need to fill the cranial bars along the lower edges of the lag. And then nail the black floor boards to them. This flooring is covered with a layer of roofing material and a heater is placed on top of it. As a heater, you can use mineral wool or expanded clay. On top of the insulation you need to send glassine.
Boards of a clean floor are placed on the logs with the front side, while the nails are not hammered to the end. After a year, you will need to pull out the nails, and turn the boards over and nail them down completely.
When flashing the ceiling, you need to decide where to leave the opening to the attic floor.
After the ceiling is hit, you need to move to the second floor. There, glassine is laid on the ceiling boards, a heater is placed, then glassine again and the floorboards are nailed.
After that, the attic ceiling is hemmed.
At the stage of interior decoration, door and window blocks are exposed and fixed. They are fixed with wedges in the openings. The exposed blocks with the walls of the log house are fastened with nails 100-120 mm. Tow is stuffed into the gap, the parts that protrude are cut off. The gap between the wall and the block is closed with platbands. The threshold of the door unit should not rise more than 7 cm above the floor.
When fixing window blocks, an inclined cornice should be nailed above the upper casing, and a drain should be installed on the bottom board.
It is necessary to make a staircase that will lead to the second floor. By design, the simplest is a single-flight staircase.
Its lower part rests on the floor, and its upper part rests on the wall of the attic opening. The distance between the steps should be 20 cm. First, materials for the bowstring, railings and steps are prepared. For the manufacture of bowstrings, it is better to purchase lumber with a section of 60x200 mm.
For steps it is necessary to select dry material, at least 50 mm thick. Their length is at least 800 mm. The ends of the steps and their length must be identical.
The steps are laid on bars with a section of 5x5 cm and fastened with nails 100 mm to the bowstrings. The places where the stairs fit to the attic and to the floor are determined. Cuts are made, and the necessary workpiece is obtained, which fits snugly against the wall and floor.
On this blank, a second bowstring is cut. Both bowstrings are combined, and marks of future steps are applied on the outer edges. Bars are nailed along these marks, and then steps. The steps on the outside of the bowstring are nailed with decorative hats.
