How to properly insulate walls with polystyrene foam. Expanded polystyrene boards for external insulation of a house: features of frame house insulation, wall preparation, insulation installation, possible errors. Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

Styrofoam is very common. The material is quite popular due to its low cost and ease of installation. How to properly insulate walls, what you need to consider, we will analyze in detail in the article.

Expanded polystyrene - a material with a gas-filled structure, is the most common insulator at the moment.

The material appeared on the market recently, but many developers immediately appreciated it. It is used everywhere, for thermal insulation, loggias, balconies, houses, garages and other structures. Consider the characteristics that caused such popularity.

Positive qualities of the material:

it is a good heat insulator, which allows the material to be used not only outside;
moisture resistant - does not get wet, even with prolonged contact with water;
vapor-permeable - despite its origin, the material allows the walls of the building to "breathe";
does not rot, fungal diseases do not appear in it;
well isolates the building from outside noise;
does not shrink;
environmentally friendly;
is inexpensive;
simple in application.

Like any material, polystyrene has disadvantages, but they are not so significant:

not resistant to chemical compositions;
rodents can start in it, as the material is porous and soft;
the material can burn, although manufacturers are trying to solve this problem by treating it with special compounds.

These disadvantages are not so significant if the installation is carried out correctly, given these shortcomings.

Insulation of the walls of the house with polystyrene foam from the outside

Expanded polystyrene, most preferably, for thermal insulation of walls. The usable area of the room does not decrease, it is possible to increase the insulator layer up to 20 cm. When finishing a heat-insulated building, you can use ordinary siding or profiled sheet.

Wall preparation

The process of warming always begins with surface preparation. It is necessary not only to clean the wall of dust and foreign objects, but also to close up all the bumps, cracks, and prepare the material.

Attention! The plane for this insulation should be even and smooth, the difference should not be more than 3-5 mm.

So, the work algorithm is as follows:

it is impossible to install expanded polystyrene on an uneven wall with significant differences, since a void forms in the places of depressions, which will greatly reduce the quality of thermal insulation;
if the walls are even, then it is necessary to evaluate the structure of the facade, for example, if the facade was previously painted, then the surface must be cleaned well. The paint will begin to fall off over time, along with the heat insulator;
as soon as the old coating is removed from the walls, cracks, chips and other defects may be found that need to be repaired. Before repairing cracks, they should be embroidered with a perforator with a spatula nozzle, and primed. For masking, you can use a cement mortar, gypsum plaster or building foam. The cracks are foamed, after drying the foam is cut off. Chips covered with plaster.

Attention! The wall will be ready for gluing insulation when, after running your hand over it, it remains clean.

We warm the slopes

Windows are the main source of heat loss, and the quality of insulation will depend on how well the slopes are insulated.

Work on slope isolation is carried out in several stages:

the surface is well cleaned of dirt and dust. Remove dried foam that can stick out after installing windows;
prime the slopes in two layers, for better adhesion of the surface and the plaster mixture;
level the surface after the soil has dried. It is better to plaster slopes with cement mortar. They need to be made as even as possible so that the polystyrene foam fits snugly to the surface. To do this, use a perforated corner, which is leveled using plaster.

As soon as the preparation is completed, and the solution on the slopes is completely dry, you can start warming. The algorithm is this:

cut insulation for walls, the desired size;
apply glue on it, and press it firmly against the slope;
if gaps are formed during the installation of the material, then they should be foamed or sealed with a solution.

Pasting the cornice

Before you insulate the walls, you must first paste over the eaves, for this:

for pasting the cornice, you need to take the thinnest material that will hold on to one glue;
strips are glued strictly from the wall;
First, it is worth fixing the vertical elements, and only then lay the horizontal ones on them.

The material must be installed in such a way that it does not protrude. If necessary, it should be cut with a sharp knife.

Vapor barrier and waterproofing with polystyrene foam insulation

Despite the fact that polystyrene foam is one of the best materials for wall insulation, it is also a vapor-permeable material, before installing it, you need to install a vapor barrier so that condensation does not form between the wall and the insulation. In this case, membrane films are perfect.

Vapor barrier is installed on fully prepared, dry walls. If the walls are insulated with polystyrene foam from wood, then the vapor barrier material can be installed on the brackets using a construction stapler.

The material is laid on the walls with an overlap of 10 cm, while the joints must be glued with construction tape. This will eliminate the appearance of bridges of cold.

On a concrete or brick wall, a condensate insulator is installed using glue with additional fastening on dowel nails.

After that, you can safely proceed to the preparation of the material.

The process of preparing insulation when using extruded polystyrene foam

Since expanded polystyrene differs from polystyrene in a smooth surface, the plates must be carefully prepared before gluing.

Manufacturers care about their customers, and took into account this shortcoming in production. In this regard, a material with a slight corrugation has appeared on the market, but it may not be available for sale.

The main task of preparing the material is to make the plates rough so that the glue adheres well to the surface. The expanded polystyrene sheet is rolled with a needle roller, which is used to create curved foam structures.

All plates that are planned to be installed on the wall are rolled at once.

If there is no roller, then you can use an iron brush. The material should be processed on both sides.

Wall primer

The primer is selected based on the material of the walls. But the main requirement for the soil is that it must be deep penetration.

Before applying the primer, the walls should be washed to remove street dust and soot from it.

In this case, the primer can be applied after 24 hours.

If islands of white plaque are observed on the wall (the release of minerals during weathering of moisture), it must be removed with an iron brush.

Only after careful preparation can priming begin. If the surface area is large, for speed, you can use a conventional spray gun to apply the composition.

Installation of foam boards to the wall

Once all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the material on the walls:

Installation starts from the bottom of the corner, and lead in rows, rising up. The material is attached to the wall horizontally, while the vertical seams should go in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, the corner layers on every second layer are cut in half.
Apply a layer of adhesive to the wall with a notched trowel. The composition must completely cover the entire surface of the wall. Then apply a little adhesive, diluted to the state of a net, on the sides of the material, install the plate and level it with light wiggles.
It is worth considering that high-quality insulation of the house with polystyrene foam will not work in one layer, so when calculating the material, you need to take this into account. The second row of slabs is glued with a shift, so that the joints of the previous layer, when the house is insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam, are closed with a whole slab. The second layer of thermal insulation is glued to the sour cream.

Plates for the first and second layer of wall insulation from the outside should be bought in the same thickness, for example, if you plan to lay thermal insulation of 10 cm, then buy plates of 50 mm thick.

Installing the mesh on the insulation

The mesh begins to be mounted on the wall a day after the heat insulator is laid. It is necessary to prepare a solution by milking the nets, and apply it to the polystyrene foam with a notched trowel over the entire surface.

Start gluing the mesh from the corner, but only from above, spreading it with a spatula to the bottom, until the reinforcement is completely pressed into the composition. After the first strip is laid, the second one begins to be glued with an overlap of 5 cm.

A perforated element is installed at the corners, with a reinforced sickle, so that the corner is even and protected from impacts.

If laying on the solution does not work out, you can do it differently, first stick the sickle, and then walk over it with the solution using a wide spatula.

Further work can be continued only after the solution with reinforcement has completely dried.

Preparation before plastering insulation

If a decision is made to plaster the house after insulation, then it is better to lay a PVC mesh for reinforcement. It will last a long time, as it is not subject to corrosion.

This grid is mounted according to the same principle as a sickle. They cut off the layer along the height of the wall, fix it from above from the corner, and begin to clog the cells with plaster, 0.5 cm thick. It is worth doing the work so that the mesh does not stick out from under the plaster and fits well to the surface of the insulation.

Applying the final layer of plaster

As soon as the layer of plaster with the built-in mesh dries, you can start plastering the surface, having previously primed it.

You need to buy facade plaster in dry form and dilute according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Plastering is done with a wide spatula, applying a solution to it with a small spatula.

For a good result, the plaster is applied in two layers, while each subsequent layer must be applied to the dried surface.

After the plaster layers have dried, the walls must be puttied, and after stripping, paint or apply decorative plaster on the walls.

siding finish

It is much easier to finish the insulated building with siding. The material is not expensive, easy to use, while it has a huge range of colors and imitation of various materials.

Before fixing the siding, a metal profile frame is mounted on it.

The work is done as follows:

fasten the guide profile to the dowel nails, which is installed below - on the foundation, above - under the roof;
stand-up profiles are screwed to the rails, which are additionally attached to the walls with the help of direct hangers. It is important to remember that there should be a gap of 5 cm between the insulation and the facing material. The suspensions are attached to the wall directly on the dowels directly through the insulation;
after that, you need to mount the jumpers in increments of 60 cm.

The result should be a lattice of profiles around the perimeter of the entire building.

Once the siding structure is ready, installation can begin. Regardless of the type of siding, the installation of panels starts from the corner and is done in rows from the bottom to the top.

Conclusion

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the external insulation of the house with polystyrene foam, even a non-professional can do this work with his own hands, it is enough to carry out the installation in strict sequence.

Wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam has gained wide popularity due to the excellent thermal insulation of the material. Expanded polystyrene can be used to insulate a room both inside and outside.

It is possible to insulate with polystyrene foam from the outside and from the inside, this insulation is popular due to its qualities and low price.

Characteristics of expanded polystyrene

Extruded polystyrene foam is a product of mixing polystyrene with a substance based on carbon dioxide and light freons.

This mixture is heated and passed through a special apparatus - an extruder. This equipment contributes to good mixing and foaming of the mixture. This composition is then formed into sheets which, when solidified, form a light porous material.

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam is much more effective than with polystyrene foam. This is due to the fact that expanded polystyrene has a granule size of 2-8 mm, interconnected by heated steam. Extruded polystyrene foam is subjected to heat treatment while still in a liquid state, due to which the material acquires a solid solid structure.

Expanded polystyrene has the following properties:

Technical characteristics of expanded polystyrene boards.

Low thermal conductivity: 0.03 W per 1 cc. Such a high ability to retain heat is due to the fact that this material consists of 90% of the air in the cells.
Ability to withstand heavy loads: 35 tons per 1 sq.m.
Resistant to temperature extremes, humidity, precipitation, direct sunlight.
Chemical resistance: does not rot, is not destroyed by insects and rodents.
Does not pass moisture, which eliminates the occurrence of mold and swelling.
Low vapor permeability. Wall insulation with polystyrene foam eliminates the use of vapor barriers.
Fire resistant.
Long service life: up to 50 years and above.
Environmental friendliness. Expanded polystyrene is widely used not only in construction, but also in the food industry. Containers and disposable tableware are made from this material.

Currently, the technique of erecting hollow walls has gained popularity. Its essence lies in the fact that a sheet of insulation is inserted into the cavity of the supporting structures. This allows you to save building materials, and also increases the performance of the building. In this case, the insulation lasts much longer, as it is hidden from the aggressive effects of the environment.

Partitions inside the house are rarely insulated with polystyrene foam, since in any case they are inside a warm room.

On a wall insulated with polystyrene foam, the installation of electrical outlets is undesirable.

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Preparing walls for thermal insulation

Figure 1. Scheme of insulation using expanded polystyrene inside the building.

Insulation of walls from the inside is done when it is impossible to do it from the outside. For example, when the facade of the house has a great historical significance or a lot of decor. In other cases, it is advisable to insulate the room from the outside, since internal thermal insulation reduces the volume of the room.

Internal thermal insulation has a scheme, as in Fig.1.

To work, you will need the following tools and materials:

spatulas;
paint roller and brush;
perforator;
rubber mallet;
dowels;
mounting knife and pencil;
building level;
glue;
container for adhesive liquid;
painting net;
primer;
antifungal agent;
expanded polystyrene sheets, at least 5 cm thick.

Wall insulation begins with surface preparation. First you need to dismantle the old wallpaper or other finishing material. The old and plinth should also be removed to insulate the wall as low as possible.

Traces of mold should be removed with sandpaper. In the presence of irregularities and cracks, the wall must be leveled with plaster and puttied.

After the putty has dried, the surface should be coated with an antifungal agent. The next day, the walls are primed. This is done for good adhesion of the finishing material to the wall and to prevent the appearance of fungi. When performing this procedure, it is recommended to ventilate the room.

To prevent the accumulation of condensate, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing substrate before installing the insulation.

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Insulation of internal walls: instructions

Figure 2. Scheme of fastening polystyrene foam to the wall with dowels

Insulation with polystyrene foam from the inside can be done in two ways:

fixing sheets to the wall with dowels;
laying tiles on glue.

The scheme of the first method is shown in fig. 2.

The insulation begins to be fixed from the bottom up from the corner. The plate is set vertically and pressed against the wall to be insulated, and the end of the sheet against the side wall. Holes are drilled through the insulation with a perforator, into which the dowels will be hammered.

Then plastic dowels are inserted into the holes, and nails are hammered into them. The dowel cap should tightly press the sheets of insulation and not rise above its surface.

The second row is laid close to the bottom. To get a smaller sheet of insulation, it is cut with a knife. The gaps between the sheets are sealed with mounting foam, but not with adhesive tape.

The second method of insulation is performed using glue, the best option of which is Ceresit. This adhesive composition has good adhesion with polystyrene foam, drywall and other finishing materials.

Glue should be applied to the wall, not to the Styrofoam! To do this, with a notched trowel, the adhesive mixture is applied pointwise or in stripes to the surface, and then a sheet of insulation is applied to this area. The glue hardens very quickly, so the sheet should be mounted within 10 minutes.

For reliable fastening, the sheets can be fixed with dowels. 5 dowels are enough for one layer of material: 4 in the corners and 1 in the center.

In order not to chatter your teeth in a cold apartment or private house, you need to think about warming in a timely manner.

The first and most significant source of heat loss in houses is the walls. But, if in a country house, in a country house or in a garage, the issue of insulation is most often resolved in favor of outdoor work, then in an apartment, especially if it is facade and located in areas of the city where it is forbidden to change the architectural appearance of the building, preference is given to internal insulation.

Attic insulation is also possible only from the inside. Although, in fairness, it should be noted that the insulation of walls with foam plastic inside the apartment requires further repair and finishing work.

In addition to foam, for internal insulation can be used: mineral wool, polystyrene foam or even spraying with polyurethane foam. However, most owners prefer foam. Why this thermal insulation material?

Advantages of foam insulation from the inside:

low cost;
non-toxicity. This parameter is especially important, since the internal insulation of the walls with foam is performed;
simple, intuitive technology for performing work;
the ability to warm up with your own hands;
excellent thermal insulation properties of the foam (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.038 W / m ° C).

It is better to illustrate this indicator with an example. To obtain the same result, you need to use 100 mm foam and 160 mm. mineral wool. Comparison with other materials is shown in the diagram.

It can be seen from the diagram that, nevertheless, it will be most effective to use foam to insulate the walls from the inside.

The choice of foam for wall insulation

The main requirements taken into account when choosing a foam are as follows: density and required thickness. As for density, denser material is easier to work with. It will not scatter in the form of balls throughout the room.

According to the norms of DSTU B.V.2.7-8-94 “Polystyrene foam plates. TU "foam plastic is divided into four groups and has the following marking: PSB-S 15, PSB-S 25, PSB-S 35 and PSB-S 50. The properties of each brand are indicated in the table

The letters PSB-S mean the method of manufacturing foam plastic - the non-press method. The properties of these brands are unchanged for a long period of time (up to 40 years).

At the same time, many mistakenly believe that the numbers at the end of the marking indicate the actual density of the material. However, it is not. After all, according to the mentioned DSTU

Therefore, in fact, it turns out that PSB-S -15 has a density of +/- 9 kg/m3. A PSB-S 50 - +/-30 kg / m3. Take this into account when calculating!

Advice:
For wall insulation, you need to take a brand not lower than PSB-S 25.

The second point is the required sheet thickness. Many are wondering what thickness of foam to choose. The answer depends on a number of factors:

temperature regime in the region;
direction and strength of the wind;
wall material (brick, concrete, wood);
expected increase in heat after insulation.

Tip: To improve the properties of the foam, you should purchase not one sheet with a thickness of 100 mm, but two with a thickness of 50 mm. and overlap them so that the joint of the first layer is in the middle of the sheet of the second layer.

Instructions for wall insulation with foam from the inside

For the work you will need building material and tools.

Material:

Styrofoam;
sickle tape for sealing joints;
polymer mesh;
cement-based adhesive;
umbrellas (special dowels for attaching foam);
primer universal;

Tool:

a roller or brush for a primer and a container for it;
perforator and drills;
spatulas;
sandpaper;
level, ruler and pencil for marking.

The technology of internal insulation of walls with foam plastic provides for the performance of work in several stages:

1. Preparatory stage

The importance of this stage is difficult to overestimate. Because the quality of the adhesion of the sheet to the wall and the ability of the foam to maintain its thermal insulation properties also depend on the quality of the base.

Before you get started you need to:

replace windows if necessary. Otherwise, the effectiveness of insulation will be reduced to zero;

clean the wall from wallpaper, hammered nails, etc.;

seal all cracks;

remove fungus. If it does not wash off, it must be cleaned off with sandpaper;

dismantle the plinth;

cut the flooring to the thickness of the sheet. The material is mounted only on the bearing coating;

smooth out any irregularities in the wall. Otherwise, air will remain between the sheets, which is fraught with a shift in the dew point.

Tip: To eliminate minor defects, use putty, to level the wall with transitions of more than 10 mm - only plaster.

2. Preparatory stage

At this stage, the following actions are performed:

the prepared wall is treated with a primer. From a wide variety of priming solutions, give preference to a universal mixture of a trusted manufacturer. For example, good reviews about Ceresit ST-17. After its application, a thin film is formed on the wall, which will provide both biosecurity and better adhesion of the adhesive mixture to the wall;

Tip: Do not use a primer sprayer. So it is applied and dries unevenly, and this reduces its properties.

the wall must be dry. To do this, it is enough to ensure good ventilation of the air in the room;

markup is applied. As practice shows, the walls of most apartments of the Soviet period of construction (Khrushchev and panel houses) are uneven. If you have the same, then draw a line as close to the floor as possible. You will line up with her. Then the subsequent rows of sheets will lay down relatively evenly. Why relatively? Yes, because DSTU provides for a deviation of +/- 10 mm on a sheet measuring 1x1 m. At the bottom and on the sides, close up with foam plastic scraps. For the same reason, you do not need to make a large number of blanks and apply a drawing to the entire wall - only to the corner.

3. Main stage

Insulation of walls with foam from the inside can be done in two ways:

Frame method. This method is used if further finishing with drywall or clapboard is planned. This is mainly due to the fact that the thickness of the near-wall UD and SD profiles is 27 mm. Styrofoam is placed between them. And the thickness is 27 mm. clearly not enough to perform high-quality wall insulation with foam inside the house. But, under the lining, the frame method fits perfectly. This is due to the fact that a wooden frame with a beam thickness of at least 50 mm is arranged under it.

Frameless way. If you plan to finish the walls with putty.

How to insulate walls with foam plastic from the inside - the sequence of execution with a frameless method of insulation under putty or plaster

We proceed to the installation of foam on the wall. Work begins from below, from a remote corner.

an adhesive solution is applied to the sheet. The application method is shown in the diagram;

the sheet is applied to the wall and floor (if it is uneven, then to the drawn strip) and pressed;

Advice:
Do not press hard, otherwise the sheet will push through.

a hole for an umbrella dowel (fungus) is drilled in the center of the sheet;

a sheet is fixed with an umbrella;

Tip: The umbrella head should be slightly buried in the foam or flush with the sheet. Otherwise, it may be difficult to finish.

for more reliable fixation, umbrellas are also clogged at the corners of the sheet.

If the polystyrene foam plates are even, installation can be carried out according to this scheme.

Such a device makes it possible to save on umbrellas, but makes the installation somewhat “flimsy”.

In order to better insulate the walls with foam from the inside, the sheets of the second row are shifted. Such a mounting scheme will ensure the absence of perpendicular joints.

so that the structure does not let heat through, there should be no gaps at the junction of the sheets;

to arrange the top row, you need to adjust the sheets to size. The foam is cut with an ordinary hacksaw or a construction knife (if its thickness does not exceed 50 mm);

sealing seams. Seams with a thickness of more than 10 mm must be sealed with foam plastic scraps. those less than 10 mm. can be blown out with foam;

Advice:
To keep the piece tightly, foam must be applied to its back side.

sickle tape sticker. The tape is good because it has one side treated with glue. It's easy to glue. The price of the tape is insignificant, but it is difficult to overestimate the value, because. it protects the seam from deformation. Without the use of tape, cracks will go along the seam;

Advice:
Protruding joints are eliminated with a foam grater.

puttingty on umbrella hats. Only those that are recessed in foam. In principle, the hats will “hide” during the wall putty. But, then the subsequent mixture will be applied in a thick layer, and it will take longer to dry.

4. Finishing stage

glue is applied to the surface of the top sheet. The width of the layer is equal to the width of the reinforcing mesh.

a mesh is applied and hidden under a layer of the mixture.

after the wall is completely dry, you can proceed to the decorative finish.

Tip: Try not to wrinkle the mesh. They don't camouflage themselves well.

Insulation of walls from the inside with foam plastic - video

In conclusion, I would like to note what you should not save on with internal insulation with foam:

on ventilation. To do this, you need to make special holes in the window frames. Metal-plastic windows are equipped with them by default, but there are no holes in the wooden frames. Ventilation is needed to avoid condensation.

on the thickness of the insulation. The picture shows how the dew point shifts.

on the density of the insulation. A low-density insulation will not allow you to get the planned effect from the insulation of walls with foam plastic from the inside.

as a primer. A poor-quality primer will not protect you from mold and fungal growth.

In order to live in a wooden frame house, it was possible to live comfortably not only in the summer season, but also all year round, you will need high-quality insulation of the walls of the house. It is best to insulate the walls with polystyrene foam (styrofoam). It’s worth saying right away that penoplex and polyurethane foam are the same thing, it’s just a kind of polystyrene foam. It is interesting that such material can be used for both frame and brick houses, and the insulation is fixed in the same way both there and there.

Features, pros and cons of the “wet” and “dry” method of warming a frame house

As you might guess, wall insulation with polystyrene foam by the “dry” method assumes that the insulation will be applied immediately during the construction of the house, the voids are filled with a dry method.

This method has one significant drawback: dust particles that will fly away from the insulation can subsequently adversely affect human health. Penoplex and polyurethane in themselves are safe materials, they will not harm a person, but it’s still worth being careful.

The scheme of warming a house from a bar with the help of penoplex

Usually, polyurethane foam is applied “dry” when the construction time is running out and the insulation for a frame or brick house needs to be fixed as quickly as possible. As for the brick structure, then in it the thermal insulation with foam plastic is usually carried out “wet”. What is meant by it?

Penoplex is first mounted in the grooves of the walls, and then it needs to be dried for 2-3 days.

If the weather conditions are unfavorable, then the time may well be needed even longer. Of course, in the conditions of extremely tight deadlines for the construction of a brick or frame house, such terms are a very big minus.

In general, here you need to choose: either mount the penoplex in a “dry” way and save time, or vice versa. But in any case, even from a purely technological point of view, “wet” foam insulation is preferable to “dry”. This must be taken into account.

Scheme of the device for dry insulation of a frame house

Preparation of walls for insulation with polystyrene foam

Wall preparation is the most important step. It includes the following work:

The walls of a frame house must be well prepared before insulation

Wall alignment. It should be said right away that the walls of a frame or brick house should be actually perfectly even. The fact is that penoplex is a relatively fragile material. Any unevenness can simply lead to the fact that the insulation tiles will crack and the entire thermal insulation effect will be virtually destroyed. Experts recommend that plastering of walls be carried out in such a way that, as a result, the height difference (along with possible irregularities, chips, cracks) does not exceed 3 centimeters. This applies to both frame and brick houses;
After plastering, it is not worth rushing to lay the foam plastic: the thermal insulation should adhere to the wall as best as possible. To do this, the surface of the latter should be slightly rough, in which case the material will lie better than if the wall is completely flat. Moreover, it should be borne in mind that polyurethane foam cannot simply be inserted into the crate of the facade of a brick or frame wooden house, as is the case with other types of material: it will be mounted using special glue. Naturally, it will be more problematic to glue insulation on a smooth glossy wall surface than not rough;
If the walls of the building were painted on the outside with a coloring composition that has a zero vapor permeability index, then the layer of such paint must be completely cleaned (when the surface of a wooden frame or brick house is insulated with foam, the vapor barrier must be carefully monitored). After the paint layer has been cleaned, the surface must be primed without fail (a primer literally costs a penny in any construction market, so you definitely shouldn’t feel sorry for it). By the way, if we are talking about the internal insulation of a frame or brick house, then here it will no longer be necessary to prime the walls. But in any case, you should not forget about the vapor barrier;
Checking whether the surface needs to be additionally primed is quite simple: you need to run your palm over the surface. If a chalk mark remains on the hand, then the surface must be primed again. Here, we can say, the following rule applies: there is never too much primer. Especially when it comes to the walls of a brick or frame house. And in itself, foam insulation, as noted above, does not imply fastening: only glue;
If, upon manual contact, the surface crumbles, even if only slightly, then the surface must be cleaned again with a conventional brush, and then, again, a primer layer must be applied. Shedding is a rather serious problem, which can later lead to trouble.

After stripping the surface of the paint, it must be primed without fail.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam

Insulation with polystyrene foam may involve fixing the material in the following ways:

Glue is used first:

After gluing the tiles, it is necessary to wait at least 3 days for the tile adhesive to set as securely as possible. By and large, it is not a problem to withstand such a period: it is unlikely that a person will quickly paste over all the outer walls of the building on their own.

After the glue has set, you can already proceed with the additional fastening of the insulation with dowels. The number of dowels is easy to calculate: for every square meter of wall area there should be at least 5 pieces of dowels.

As for the length of the dowel, the rule also applies here: they must enter the wall with their main part (up to the cap) by at least 5 centimeters. Less is impossible, since tiles of thermal insulation material can simply slide off.

In this case, then it is not recommended to use dowels at all: let the insulation rest on one glue. The dowels themselves should be centered with a slight indent.

What else you need to know when insulating a house with polystyrene foam:

Possible errors in insulation

Reinforcing mesh on polystyrene must be laid

The most important mistake that people make when insulating houses is the lack of a reinforcing mesh between the laid insulation and the decorative part of the walls. Its presence is a guarantee that the heat-insulating material will last for a long time, and will perform all the functions assigned to it.

The mesh must be selected with a density index of 140 to 160 grams per 1 square meter. In this case, we are talking about frame houses, and not any others.

From above, it should also be covered with a second layer of adhesive, and the surface itself should also be almost perfectly flat. Here you can talk about several important nuances:

The vertical stripes of the grid may not overlap, but the horizontal stripes must, and the overlap should be no more than 10 centimeters;
The corners of the facade must be reinforced, for which either perforated plastic or a corner is used (if the corner is metal, then it must be galvanized to avoid corrosion in the future).

Another common mistake is that the insulation of the walls of the house is carried out very quickly, in haste. Often this is expressed in the fact that the glue is simply not allowed to dry completely and properly “grab” both the insulation itself and the walls of the building.

To strengthen the corners of the facade, perforated plastic is usually used.

Insulation of walls from the outside with polystyrene foam must necessarily involve holding the adhesive base for at least 3 days - this is even a law, not a rule.

Expanded polystyrene wall insulation is a very good material in itself, but its improper use can send all the work down the drain, especially when it comes to a wooden house.

Scheme of the principle of operation of insulation in the wall of the house

As for the finish, it can be very different. Today, for example, decorative plaster is often used. Of course, it is impossible to immediately apply plaster to the insulation: the reinforcing mesh indicated above must be available.

You should not forget about the primer in this case either. In general, any subsequent stage in the external insulation of the walls of the house should always involve a primer. If you do not use it, the wall will begin to crumble over time, the insulation will quickly become unusable, and all work will need to be done again.

On the other hand, initially you need to carefully calculate everything: any material for such work, its quantity, must be calculated with a margin of 10-15%. If then there is not enough material, then you will have to stop all work.

Video

You can watch a video that talks about it. how to properly insulate the walls of the house using polystyrene foam.

Filipino natives can easily do without polystyrene foam insulation of their homes, given the stable heat on the islands all year round, but in our case, giving up good wall insulation in winter is like going out into the cold without a hat - you can, but stupid and unpleasant.

Together with the experts of the publication, we figure out how to insulate a house inside and out, what is extruded polystyrene foam and what is the best way to insulate - with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene?

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Pros of Styrofoam

high strength with light weight;
low vapor permeability and noise absorption;
high resistance to chemicals;
environmentally friendly;
fireproof;
moisture resistant;
retains its original shape throughout the entire period of operation;
low cost.

Cons of Styrofoam

fragility.

Styrofoam insulation technology

Usually, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of a room from the outside, but it is also suitable for internal insulation of residential premises, albeit with reservations: PPS "steals" space, is not "breathable" and, when insulated from the inside, spreads a characteristic smell. It is better to pay attention to other material.

For gluing PPS to the wall, a special adhesive is used (glue or foam for polystyrene foam). As a rule, this is a dry mixture, which is diluted in warm water at room temperature before use and kneaded to a uniform, lump-free consistency.

IMPORTANT! When working with extruded polystyrene foam, glue or foam is applied in advance, approximately one hour before the PPS is attached, in a uniform layer on the wall and on the sheet itself.

Use special dowels, plastic nails with "umbrella" hats. It is advisable to combine both glue and dowels.

Surface preparation and sheeting technology

Work progress:

Step 1 - Before insulating, clean and prime the surface, mark it with “beacons” Step 5 - With a flat wall, use a notched trowel, thanks to which an even and rather economical layer is obtained Photo 7 - When the glue sets, holes are drilled in the wall through the plates according to the diameter of the dowels Step 11 - The reinforced layer is additionally leveled with a mortar, dried again, primed and then subjected to finishing plaster, on which the wall decoration is applied

IMPORTANT! All work on wall insulation must be carried out on a dry day at a temperature not lower than +5 °C.

Insulation of the house with polystyrene foam

Both wooden, and frame, and brick houses can be insulated with the help of PPS. Owners of private houses are increasingly using expanded polystyrene for outdoor insulation. Insulating a frame house is a relatively new achievement; not all cottage owners trust it.

The sequence of warming a frame house:

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam

The above technology is also relevant for self-insulation of walls with polystyrene foam. But which is better to choose a heater, what types are offered? Maybe liquid is better? How to correctly calculate the thickness?

The main stages of external insulation:

prepare surfaces: cleaning, puttying cracks and cracks;
prepare an adhesive mixture or use polyurethane foam-glue;
apply glue to the expanded polystyrene plates: first lay out the edging, in the middle - dotted;
fix the plates with dowels with mushroom-shaped plastic caps;
coat the plates with glue, apply a reinforcing mesh;
putty the seams;
plaster, primed walls, apply decorative plaster or paint.

Ceiling insulation

Few people think about insulating the ceiling from the inside, but if the ceiling is not insulated, then all the heat goes up to the ceiling and out into the street. If desired, even a non-professional can insulate the ceiling, the installation technology is so simple:

calculate the amount of material needed - multiply the length of the room by the width;
clean the ceiling from whitewash or wallpaper;
complete all electrical work;
eliminate all roughness on the ceiling before starting work, since the surface of the ceiling must be even;
to carry out work preferably in the warm season;
after cleaning, treat the ceiling surface with a primer solution;
prepare sheets, if necessary, cut them, adjusting to the dimensions of the ceiling;
fix in a checkerboard pattern using dowels;
fix the paint grid on the surface and putty;

For their insulation, a shell of expanded polystyrene is used. Today, due to its reliability and durability, it is the best option. The expanded polystyrene shell is offered in different diameters, which is very convenient, since you can choose the insulation for any pipe Ø from 17 mm to 1220 mm.

In the event of an accident, it is possible to quickly gain access to a certain place through special grooves, which will allow you to easily and quickly dismantle the insulation and then return everything to its place.

IMPORTANT! It has been confirmed that such insulation will be able to protect the pipe for up to 50 years at temperatures up to -70°C.

window slopes

This method of window insulation is used in wooden buildings lined with bricks. Brick is colder than wood, and the temperature difference leads to condensation, freezing of windows, which deforms the window structure.

Stages of work:

cut polystyrene foam into strips 5-8 cm thick;
paste over the outer slopes around the window with them, which forms a spade in relation to the inner slope;
after the glue has dried, install the window by mounting the fasteners to the wall and filling the gaps with mounting foam;
from the outside, the slopes must be plastered after the glue and foam have dried, which, after settling, will not let cold air through.

armored belt

The implementation of the insulation of the armored belt should be carried out from the outside of the building. It is better to insulate directly during construction. For this, a colored polystyrene foam plate measuring 60x120cm is suitable:

cut the plate in half lengthwise and fix it on the wall;
putty joints with sealant and paint.

doors

The main heat loss occurs through the entrance doors. It is possible to insulate PPS both wooden doors and metal ones.

Insulation of wooden doors:

cut a single piece from a sheet of expanded polystyrene to the size of a wooden sheet;
stick it on the door;
cover with sheathing material;
fill the rails around the entire perimeter of the door leaf (thickness according to the expanded polystyrene sheet);
between the slats lay insulation on the glue;
on top of the rails, fill the finish in the form of laminated MDF, chipboard or plywood.

Insulation of metal doors:

IMPORTANT! Usually, in the manufacture of metal doors, sheet material is used, welded on the sides with corners, i.e. inside there are voids that should be filled from the inside for additional insulation.

take the dimensions (width and length) of the canvas along which the fiberboard panel will be cut in order to close the expanded polystyrene layer;
dimensions of the door leaf for transfer to fiberboard plywood, note the location and dimensions of the handle and peephole, cut openings for them;
to check the correctness of all marks, it is necessary to attach the panel directly to the door;
cut sheets of polystyrene foam with a sharp knife and glue them to the inside of the door leaf with silicone, which is applied in a uniform dense layer over the entire surface;
keep in mind that the thickness of the expanded polystyrene is determined by the size of the corner shelf;
close the insulation with a panel of fiberboard, put a bit on a screwdriver and screw it with self-tapping screws to the door leaf;

IMPORTANT! The stiffening ribs of a metal door are made of a hollow tube; in winter, it freezes and the effect of a "refrigerator" is observed. It should be filled from the inside with mounting foam by drilling holes in the pipe with a drill, where the foam is poured.

basement

If the basement on the first floors is not properly designed, condensation is possible at low surface temperatures. Consequences - mold, fungus. The foundation needs to be insulated, even if the exploited basement is not provided for in the house.

Features of basement or cellar insulation with polystyrene foam

Advantages of extruded polystyrene foam

not subject to attacks by rodents;
not very fragile;
waterproof;
easy to process;
low weight, which eliminates the additional load on the load-bearing structures.

Cons of extruded polystyrene foam

will cost more;
combustible and toxic.

It is necessary to carry out all work on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation or basement even at the construction stage. If they are not done, during operation you should:

create a drainage system;
perform waterproofing of the protruding parts of the foundation and plinth;
insulate the basement inside and out.

Installation with polystyrene foam

seal cracks and voids in the walls with mounting foam or sealant;
irregularities that interfere with the fastening of the plates, plaster;
treat the walls with waterproofing material - liquid rubber, bituminous mastic, roll material;
glue foam polystyrene plates on the surface from bottom to top end-to-end, the next row is mounted on the previous one with a run-out of seams;
fix additionally with dowels (5 pcs per workpiece);
foam the seams;
outside to process the plates with plaster. The use of fiberglass reinforcing mesh in the process is recommended;
apply penetrating waterproofing to the cellar ceiling;
stick the plates and fix the dowel-nails;
stick fiberglass mesh and plaster.

With a base of reinforced concrete slabs:

waterproofing with a double layer of roofing material with a coating between the layers with bituminous mastic;
lay high-density polystyrene foam or extruded PPS;
produce a screed.

With an earthen basement or cellar:

remove the sod and level the surface;
place waterproofing material;
pour a gravel-sand pillow, tamp;
an alternative to a pillow would be expanded clay or sawdust-clay mixture
lay insulation;
produce a screed.

The basement is ready for finishing, for this they use paint, plaster, porcelain tiles.

Facade insulation

Work progress:

prepare the walls and prime;
the waterproofing of the basement is carried out after it dries; for this, compositions based on epoxy resins are perfect;
glue and fix the plates with plastic dowels (both dry mixes and glue in cylinders, for example, ST-84, are suitable for fixing polystyrene foam);
finish with a facade mesh using a reinforcing composition;
on top of the protective layer, any type of finish is possible: decorative stone, siding, decorative plaster compositions.

IMPORTANT! To insulate the basement, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam - it is tougher.

Insulation of the foundation of the house from the outside

Before starting work, it should be determined what thickness of the PPS will be sufficient to insulate the foundation.

Technology:

apply glue on the plate pointwise (in each corner and in the center from 6-8 points, diameter from 10-15 cm, thickness 1 cm);
after application, wait 1 min, press the polystyrene foam to the base of the foundation;
insulation to start from the corner of the foundation from the bottom;
the second row is fixed so that the center of the plate is located above the joint of the plates of the 1st row;
fill the trench with sand to the middle of the slab;
compact the sand;
create an additional layer of thermal insulation at the corners of the foundation;
laying polystyrene foam on the base with glue;
fill up the trench;
make a blind area around the house: fill the area around the perimeter of the building with sand and crushed stone (gravel) and pour cement mortar.

Blind area insulation

As a rule, the blind area is made around the entire perimeter of the building from concrete. It adjoins close to the foundation and protects it from adverse atmospheric influences.

Advantages of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

frost resistance;
minimum water absorption;
resistance to mold and mildew;
excellent thermal insulation;
resistance to high temperatures;
light weight;
ease of installation.

Cons of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

creates a favorable environment for the reproduction of fungi and mold;
fire hazard.

Most often, PPS is used to insulate the blind area:

laying the material in one layer with sheets 100 mm thick or 50 mm in two layers;
lay high-density polyethylene (plantera, isostud) on a layer of expanded polystyrene for waterproofing the joints of sheets.

Wells

The protection of wells, especially in rural areas, is very relevant - water supply is necessary at any time of the year. It is necessary to insulate a well cover made of wood and fixed inside the structure itself.

The cover serves as protection against:

temperature fluctuations;
snow and rain ingress;
dry leaves and other debris.

There are 3 thermal insulation technologies:

thermal insulation of the upper ring;
insulation of the structure cover;
construction of a decorative house.

Work progress:

cut two shields along the diameter;
wrap one with foil and lower it into the well below ground level;
fix it on hangers;
top must be insulated with foam;
the second shield is insulated in the same way and placed in the well 0.8 m - 1.2 m above the first;

Overlappings

In a residential building, floors are divided into:

attic;
basement;
basement;
interfloor.

The cheapest PPS is suitable for thermal insulation of the floor slab, and the cracks are filled with construction foam. Regarding wooden floors, the insulating material is laid between the wooden beams.

PPS really insulate rooms for any purpose, including baths: the properties of the material are ideally preserved at 100% humidity. After insulation, a crate is usually mounted from a metal profile or from a bar for siding or other facing material, such as corrugated board or panels.

A great option would be to insulate the outer walls with expanded polystyrene foam. Quite often, foam block walls are insulated with polystyrene foam, the application technology is standard.

For the thermal insulation of the bath, the technologies of the “ventilated and “wet” facade are used:

preparation of walls and calculation of the amount of required insulation;
installation of expanded polystyrene, when the sheets are glued end-to-end with a polyurethane, cement, acrylic adhesive mixture;
large gaps are foamed with mounting foam;
installation of a crate from a metal profile or from a bar for siding or other facing material, such as corrugated board or panels.

Warm plaster, which includes expanded polystyrene granules, expanded clay chips, cement, sawdust, plasticizers, is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties. In the bath, as a rule, not only the walls outside and inside, but also the ceiling and floor are insulated.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) is an eco-friendly material that does not absorb water and does not rot. They are equally good at insulating walls both outside and inside, while the thickness is calculated.

When installing it, there is no need for additional waterproofing:

in order to fix the material on metal gates, you need a good mounting adhesive designed specifically for such work. Liquid nails of quick solidification are quite suitable;
prepare sheets, according to the required dimensions, and glue to the surface. At the same time, it is advisable to seal the joints with mounting foam;
create another layer of plastic panels, wood planks or plywood.

Extruded polystyrene foam for home insulation

To date, extruded polystyrene foam is actively used for insulating frame and wooden houses, as well as for insulating an apartment from the inside, where the only obstacle may be the thickness of the insulation.

The external method of installing thermal insulation is safer and more effective than insulation from the inside. When installing insulation inside the apartment, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is reduced due to the thickness of polystyrene foam. This also applies to small basements.

The process of internal insulation is carried out strictly according to the technology of installation of a heat-insulating system. The dew point shifts and condensation is possible on the walls, which forms mold, the heat-insulating layer and the supporting structures themselves are also destroyed.

If we consider the installation of insulation inside the apartment, then there is a decrease in area due to the thickness of polystyrene foam. This problem also applies to the basement, if it is small in size, then you are unlikely to like it if it becomes even smaller.

Wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam

Independent thermal insulation of a house or apartment is possible. Usually, internal insulation is carried out due to the impossibility of doing it from the outside, for example, if the room is of historical value.

Floor insulation

Expanded polystyrene is also used for floor insulation without a screed, directly on the foam boards:

lay the vapor barrier layer on the floors,
top - polystyrene foam plates;
there is no need to lay waterproofing, you can immediately equip the floor covering.

In a garage or basement, in order to save money, a concrete floor is laid on top of the ground. And here it is important to insulate the lower part of the building with high quality, since high-quality hydro and thermal insulation in winter will help maintain a comfortable temperature.

Wooden floor insulation

When laying the thermal insulation of wooden floors, preference is given to natural materials. The flooring is mounted directly on a concrete screed, then the wooden floor is insulated with polystyrene foam.

All work is carried out even during the construction process: first, sand or gravel is poured, then logs are installed, and expanded polystyrene plates are placed between them (in between). A screed is poured from above and a wooden floor is laid.

concrete floor insulation

Laying technology is in many ways reminiscent of floor insulation under a screed, only more laborious. Do not forget that when the concrete floor is insulated with polystyrene foam, as a rule, the height of the room is “eaten up”.

Sometimes such deviations are allowed:

the thickness of the screed should be no more than 5 cm. The same value is left for the thickness of the expanded polystyrene;
with a flat floor surface, you can install only insulation boards and win a few desired centimeters.

Balcony insulation

Styrofoam really insulate a balcony or loggia. Extruded polystyrene and polystyrene will be equally good for this.

Insulation installation:

Cut the PPS to the size of the balcony walls and floor on which it will be laid;
treat the walls with a dotted adhesive solution, retreating from the edges of 5-7 mm;
press polystyrene insulation boards to the wall of the loggia;
apply glue 2-3 mm thick to the surface of the insulation;
additionally strengthen the material with plastic dowels - "mushrooms" (6-7 pieces per 1 m²);
attach a reinforcing mesh on top with a mesh frequency of 5 mm, without sinking it into the adhesive solution;
let the glue dry.

Roof insulation

Roof insulation can be performed in several ways:

flooring;
gluing;
investment in the crate;
mechanical fastening.

IMPORTANT! Mounting methods can be combined.

Attic insulation

Owners of private houses convert attic space into an attic, buildings with a gable roof are ideal for this. Naturally, a cold attic should be insulated; for this, polystyrene foam plates are used.

Master Class:

Wall insulation from the outside with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene turned out to be an excellent insulation under plaster for the walls of houses, both outside and inside. But is it possible to insulate them outside the walls of aerated concrete? And will such insulation be effective?

Features of aerated concrete walls

In the production of blocks, which include sand, cement, limestone, a special technology is used, which gives them good rigidity and thermal insulation qualities.

But why insulate walls made of aerated concrete if they are already warm? Worth it if you live in a cold northern area. Insulation on the outside of walls made of PPS aerated concrete is produced as a temporary option or "economy" due to poor permeability of materials. These warnings also apply to the insulation of the foundation, bath and basement.

Floor insulation with polystyrene foam

How is the insulation of a wooden and concrete floor, on the ground, under a screed and without a screed, we discussed how the floors are insulated, for example, in a garage?

Watch video:

Regarding the laminate, this type of coating is becoming more and more popular every day due to the ease of installation. It is better to insulate the floor under the laminate, otherwise it will be possible to walk on it only in slippers.

Warming of the concrete floor in the bath is carried out after the construction of the building. As an insulating layer, expanded clay, polystyrene foam and even glass bottles are often used.

Installation sequence:

Half of the first floor always needs to be insulated, and a whole range of work is needed to insulate the floor. Moreover, it is desirable to carry out floor insulation above a cold attic from above, and thermal protection above the basement - from below.

Scheme of insulation of the floor of the first floor:

dismantling of the old floor covering;
laying a vapor barrier layer;
insulation PPS;
laying a layer of polyethylene film;
reinforcing screed with cement mortar;
new finish.

The thickness of the insulation layer on the ground floor should be at least 80-100 mm.

Some features of insulation:

Roofs

Of course, the insulation of the PPS roof of the attic increases the life of the roof. According to its characteristics, PPS is similar to polystyrene, but the technology for its use for roof insulation is different.

Insulation of the attic with extruded polystyrene foam consists in laying rafters on top in order to exclude the appearance of even the slightest gaps. Expanded polystyrene boards are made specifically with joints of the form of a step or a “thorn-in-groove” design.

roofs

The technology of floor insulation is similar to roof insulation. The bottom layer in this case should be a vapor barrier film endowed with anti-condensation properties, and the top layer should be a waterproofing film. When water leaks, it is the film that will protect the insulation from waterlogging.

Expanded polystyrene plates are laid in the space between the ceiling beams, while foaming the cracks.

plinth

The technology for insulating the basement of a house is quite simple, which allows you to do all the work yourself.

foundation

Full thermal insulation of the foundation should consist of two sections - horizontal and vertical. The vertical section is PPS slabs mounted on the outer walls of the foundation tape, while the horizontal section should form a continuous belt around the perimeter of the building being erected, as the technology provides.

The required thickness of the insulation is calculated by the formula. The technology also provides for the insulation of the soil around the foundation, which is isolated from sub-zero temperatures by an insulated blind area, no more than a meter wide.

Styrofoam insulation from the inside

If you plan to use the loggia or balcony area solely for storing things, then one layer is enough to insulate the wall.

For external thermal insulation, sheets with a thickness of at least 50 mm are used.

What is better for insulation foam or polystyrene foam?

The difference lies in the production technology. Styrofoam is produced by dry steam treatment of polystyrene granules; during thermal expansion, they “stick” to each other, which forms micropores.

Expanded polystyrene is made by the “extrusion” method: polystyrene granules are melted, which contributes to the formation of bonds at the molecular level, so a single structure arises.

There are also differences in physical and technical characteristics.

The advantages of expanded polystyrene: