The construction of a new house or the restoration of an old building involves the modernization of the heating system, which includes all types of work. Among them - drafting a project, selecting a scheme for connecting radiators, arranging pipelines, choosing the type of batteries. The key to providing high-quality home heating is the installation of heating radiators. To master the installation technology, you should read the instruction manual, study the detailed step-by-step instructions and use the experience of practitioners in your work.
Choosing the option of connecting devices to pipes, they strive to ensure the greatest heating efficiency. Connection is most often carried out in three ways.
1. Side - the most common, allows you to achieve the greatest heat transfer, optimal for small radiators. The system looks like this: in the upper part, the battery is connected to the inlet pipe, and in the lower part (on the same side) - to the outlet pipe. If the coolant is supplied from below, it loses power. Even a non-specialist can easily do the job; this method does not require a lot of materials.
2. Bottom. The inlet and outlet pipes are located below and are connected to the main pipe, hidden under the floor or baseboard. The installation scheme with a bottom connection has a significant disadvantage: a decrease in thermal efficiency by 5-15% compared to the side version. However, long radiators with a bottom connection heat up better than those with a side connection. And one more undesirable moment: when a pipe breaks, you have to remove the floor covering, the downstream apartment may suffer from leakage.
3. Diagonal. Water enters through the top outlet on one side and exits through the bottom outlet on the opposite side. The most successful place for a diagonal connection is a private house with independent heating, in which the coolant circulates at a low speed.
If there are more than 12 sections in the devices, their diagonal connection is recommended (including if the installation site is an apartment). In systems with side connection, the coolant, even under high pressure, cannot pass through the multi-section radiator, maintaining the temperature.
Varieties
Before the installation technology of heating devices is described, it is worth studying their features. For each type, there are preferred connection options.
- Cast iron.
Among their advantages is the resistance of the material to wear, corrosion, high temperatures and water pressure. The cast iron battery heats up for a long time and stays hot for just as long. The downside is the need for annual maintenance - painting and washing. The cast iron unit is built into the heating system in various ways.
- Steel.
They are distinguished by an increased heat transfer coefficient, original design, and are not clogged with suspensions from the coolant. Disadvantages: susceptibility to corrosion (if made of carbon steel) or high cost (made of stainless steel). The steel panel battery is connected by the side method, there are lower options. If the device is sectional, side mounting is preferable.
- Aluminum.
They have the highest heat dissipation, attract modern design. Installation of aluminum radiators is recommended for autonomous heating in a small private house. In this case, it is necessary to control the composition of water and pressure in the system. Most often, a diagonal connection is used: due to it, the aluminum unit works more efficiently. There are also models designed for bottom connection.
- Bimetallic.
They successfully combine the strength of cast iron and the thermal efficiency of aluminum, resistant to corrosion and pressure drops. Installation of bimetallic radiators is possible both in the house and in the apartment. A wide range of products includes panel and tubular products. It is possible to choose units of various execution: standard, low, vertically located. Almost every model is designed to connect in different ways. The bimetal radiator has 4 connecting points: two at the bottom and two at the top.
Having decided on the type of radiator, a simple calculation of the number of heaters is performed separately for each room. On average, 1 kW of thermal energy is needed per 10 m2 of room area (no more than 3 m high). By dividing the total amount of energy by the power of the radiator, their number is determined. Power information is contained in the product manual.
List of requirements
The norms and rules for piping in force in Russia require strict adherence to a number of technical and construction regulations.
1. Installation is carried out in areas of the room with maximum heat loss. Usually such a place is the gaps between the windows and the floor.
2. The battery must be in a certain position. It is removed at least 100 mm from the window sill, 30 mm from the wall and 60 mm from the floor. The specified distances take into account the specifics of the distribution of heated air.
3. Connection of radiators to the general network is carried out according to a certain scheme, depending on the type of devices and the characteristics of the heating system.
4. Reliability of fastening to the wall is ensured by installing radiators on three brackets. Their arrangement is as follows: one fastener is located at the bottom and two at the top. Brackets are mounted using dowels and mortar.
5. At the top of each section, a valve is connected to bleed air from the system. It can be manual or automatic.
6. After the installation is completed, open the stopcocks. Do this gradually, without jerking, to prevent water hammer.
Step-by-step instruction
The installation of each type of radiator has its own characteristics, but a few general recommendations should be followed. In order for the installation to take place without errors on your own, for a start, the manual that each unit has is carefully studied. When buying consumables, fittings and components, their quality is checked. In the process of connecting radiators, all connections are made absolutely tight.
Before starting the installation with your own hands, prepare a universal and special tool:
- impact drill;
- screwdriver;
- building level;
- pliers;
- drills with victorious soldering;
- pencil, tape measure;
- torque wrench for tightening pipes.
The technology for installing heating batteries is divided into several stages.
1. A strapping scheme is being designed. This procedure is best entrusted to a heating engineer. He draws up a list of purchased products, without which it is impossible to mount a radiator with your own hands.
2. Choice of materials. If the apartment is with central heating, the heating batteries are piping with steel pipes and valves - this will prevent the fittings from breaking off at high pressure in the system. In a private house you can buy metal-plastic materials.
If the scheme developed by the designer requires that an American ball valve be used during installation, you should know that only a specialist can make its hermetic connection. Doing the installation of batteries with your own hands, they put a conventional radiator valve.
3. Overlap. If one new battery is installed, the water is shut off in front of and behind it. When all heating batteries are replaced, the system is completely blocked - regardless of whether it is a private house or an apartment. The water is drained, the residues are pumped out.
4. Prepare the wall. It is necessary to level it with plaster and putty. Before the installation of fasteners begins, marking, punching holes with a puncher, and installing dowels are carried out.
5. Fixings. The wall-mounted device is hung on brackets. At the same time, light wall partitions are drilled through, performing the installation of fasteners on the other side. The floor battery is placed on a special stand.
6. Preparation of heating radiators. The cast-iron battery is pre-disassembled, after which the nipples are tightened. The aluminum or bimetallic unit is not removed from the package until the installation work is completed.
7. Assembly. The devices are equipped with taps with detachable connections, a Mayevsky tap for bleeding air, radiator plugs and plugs, and thermostats. In order for the battery to be securely fastened with all the elements, the joints are sealed with tow.
It should be noted that a bimetallic radiator is never assembled using sandpaper and a file, in order to avoid leaks.
8. Installation of radiators on brackets. When the battery is suspended, its vertical and horizontal position is controlled using the building level. If at the end of the season it is planned to drain the water from the system, the radiator is placed with a slight deviation from the horizontal towards the pipe. This will completely remove the water to keep the battery dry.
9. Connection. Plugs are unscrewed from the batteries. If the design is single-pipe, a pre-prepared bypass is connected - so that, if necessary, the device can be cut off. With a two-pipe heating system, the battery is connected to the pipe with the help of a squeegee, to which the valve is screwed. The fastening points are again sealed with tow.
10. Hydrotesting. The technology provides for checking the tightness of the joints and their performance at the design working pressure and during water hammers. The second name of the test operation is pressure testing of heating batteries. It is quite difficult to do it yourself - it is better to invite a plumber with special equipment.
Turnkey cost
To heat a house or apartment as efficiently as possible, with a minimum likelihood of failures and breakdowns, it makes sense to entrust the work to experienced professionals. It consists of several stages:
- departure for a preliminary assessment;
- project development;
- choice of equipment;
- installation of radiators, if necessary - their testing, launch.
The price of work for each customer is determined individually, it depends on the complexity of the project, the number of devices and their design features. In order to preliminarily calculate how much it will cost to install a heating system, you need to find out what the price is for one point - it means the complex cost of installation services. On average, this figure in Moscow is 2500 rubles. The total turnkey cost differs significantly from different contractors. To get the expected result, you should draw up an agreement with the company, constantly monitor the process and quality.
In order for the house to be warm, it is necessary to correctly install the heating system. At the same time, it is important not only to qualitatively implement the necessary set of works, but also to correctly connect all the heating elements. It is necessary to take into account the current standards for the number of heating elements for a certain area. If you wish, you can do everything with your own hands.
Is assembly required?
If the radiators are delivered assembled, it is enough to install the plugs and. Most models have four holes located at the four corners of the case. They are used to connect heating lines. In this case, any scheme can be implemented.
Before the installation of the system begins, it is necessary to close the extra holes using special plugs or air vent valves. The batteries are supplied with adapters that must be screwed into the manifolds of the product. Various communications should be connected to these adapters in the future.
prefabricated models
Assembling the batteries should begin with laying the entire product or its sections on a flat surface. Best on the floor. Before this stage, it is worth deciding how many sections will be installed. There are rules that allow you to determine the optimal amount.
The sections are connected using nipples having two external threads: right and left, as well as a turnkey ledge. The nipples should be screwed into two blocks: top and bottom.
When assembling the radiator, be sure to use the gaskets supplied with the product.
It is necessary to ensure that the upper edges of the sections are correctly located - in the same plane. The tolerance is 3 mm.
Features of installation of various types
The material from which a particular heating element is made imposes certain requirements on its installation. If cast iron is not afraid of serious mechanical stress, then others require special care.
Cast iron classic
Still remain relevant. The special characteristics of the material used in their manufacture make it possible to effectively heat a room of any area due to slow cooling.
To install such a heating element correctly, before connecting, you should:
- disassemble the finished product into sections;
- stretching all the nipples, assemble the product in reverse order.
When performing installation work, it is worth considering the weight of the product and the composition of the material from which the house was built. The heating element can only be mounted on brick and concrete walls. near the plasterboard wall is made on a floor stand.
Modern models
Such products are characterized by low weight and increased fragility. For them, it is necessary to provide a Mayevsky crane.
In the process of performing installation work, do not remove the packaging to prevent deformation of the surface.
How will we connect?
The scheme for connecting radiators can be different. The level of heat transfer and the comfort of being in the apartment depend on which option will be preferred. Incorrectly selected wiring can reduce the power of the heating system by 50%.
Lateral
The most widespread is the one-sided side scheme, which has the highest heat transfer rate. In this case, the pipe supplying the coolant is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one.
If you do the opposite, the efficiency of space heating will decrease by almost 7%. To connect multi-section radiators, such a scheme is not always justified, since insufficient heating of the last sections is possible. This can be avoided by installing a water flow extension.
lower
In an apartment with pipes hidden in the floor or passing under the plinth, a bottom connection is used.
This is the most aesthetic option, in which the pipes for supplying and discharging the coolant are located below in the floor, and therefore the lower holes are used for connection.
Diagonal
Installation of batteries with twelve or more sections is carried out in a diagonal pattern.
The coolant is supplied through the upper branch pipe located on one side of the radiator, and is discharged through the lower one on the other side.
Sequential
Such a connection scheme assumes the presence in the heating system of pressure sufficient for the movement of the coolant through the pipes.
In this case, it is worthwhile to provide for a Mayevsky crane, designed to remove excess air.
It is important to remember that the implementation of repair and maintenance work will be accompanied by the shutdown of the entire heating system.
Parallel
Parallel wiring assumes the presence of a special heat pipe built into the heating system, through which the coolant is supplied and discharged outside.
The presence of special taps at the inlet and outlet makes it possible to replace individual radiators without turning off the heat supply. However, the scheme can cause insufficient heating of the pipes at reduced pressure in the system.
Work sequence
Installation of batteries begins with a complete overlap of the circuit. When replacing old radiators with new ones, water is drained and the heating elements are dismantled. It will be correct to use the pump to exclude the presence of coolant residues in the system.
After all the water has been removed, the battery attachment points are aligned in both planes. Brackets are installed.
Package
The next step will be the packaging of radiators using sealing linen, packaging paste or special shut-off valves. Using a torque wrench, tighten the connection, creating the force specified in the documentation.
Installation work
Installation of radiators on the wall is carried out by welding or polypropylene pipes. In the first case, it is enough to use two fasteners; in the second, at least three are required. Two should be at the top, one at the bottom.
With ten or more sections, the number of fasteners should be increased to five. There should be three at the top, two at the bottom.
Spatial control
The battery position is monitored in both planes. It is advisable to provide a slight slope towards the wall. This will avoid airing the system during its operation.
The final stage
Threading is performed on the risers and the connection of all elements of the heating system. The tightness of all connections is carefully controlled.
After that, trial tests can be carried out in order to detect a possible leak.
Tests
If until now everything has been done by hand, at this stage it is better to invite a ZHREU locksmith. By shutting off the "American" taps, you can open the connecting tap. It is better to entrust the opening of the return pipe to a locksmith.
If there are no leaks at the connection points, it will be possible to open the valve on the batteries and close the bypass valve. The coolant will begin to flow into the heating system. To bleed air, you should use the Mayevsky crane.
As soon as the heating circuit in all rooms warms up, the locksmith will open the straight pipe. This will restore pressure in the system. We can assume that the control tests are completed. If the installation was done correctly, the apartment will be comfortable at minimal cost.
High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and already inefficient radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it should be replaced. At first glance, this seems to be a very difficult job, available only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the proper attitude to business and the availability of some tools, installing heating batteries with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.
Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries
Rules for the location of the battery and wiring diagrams
In addition to the characteristics of the radiator itself and the literacy of its connection, one of the most important factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is choosing the right place to locate the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery, most likely, will stand in place of the old cast iron one, which has been since the building was built. But still, here are a few recommendations for the proper placement of the radiator.
How to install a radiator with your own hands
Firstly, it is desirable to place the battery under the window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which cold from the street enters an apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of "thermal curtain" that interferes with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width.
Secondly, from the floor to the radiator should be at least 80-120 mm. If there is less, then it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery, a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires warming up and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, a too small distance to the window sill negatively affects the battery efficiency.
Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and the movement of warm air flows are disturbed, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes part of the heat in vain.
All of the above principles for placing a heating battery are presented in the diagram above.
Table. Standard schemes for connecting heating batteries.
Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries - detailed step-by-step instructions!
Find out how do-it-yourself heating batteries are installed! Requirements, site selection, step-by-step installation instructions, tips, photo + video.
Installing heating radiators with your own hands is a decision that should be taken seriously: after all, not everyone can do it. At the very least, you need to be prepared for such a process. Usually, if you look at the situation only amateurishly, you can get negative emergency consequences at the exit.
Installation of heating radiators
If you live in an apartment in a multi-storey building, then it is best to call specialists for this, as there is a risk of flooding not only your apartment. In a private house, you can try to carry out the installation and install home-made heating batteries with your own hands - however, for this you need to deal with the main points of the installation.
Preliminary preparation
First, you need to decide what type of wiring was used to install the heating system. Those who arranged it should know this - one-pipe or two-pipe wiring.
And before you start installing heating radiators with your own hands, you also need to find out which heating circuit is one-pipe or two-pipe.
After all, the choice of parts and their number will depend on the wiring diagram of your heating system, photo diagrams below.
Single pipe heating system
Two-pipe heating system
What you need to install
Depending on what design features the heating system has, the number and list of parts required for installation will depend. For example, if it is single-pipe heating, then a bypass will be required. In the event of a malfunction, it will be possible to turn off only the device that has this element, and the entire system will not need to be shut off - this is especially true in winter situations, when it is not very convenient to turn off the heating in frost.
The number of parts for installation is also determined by the connection diagram and the type of radiators. According to the scheme, couplings, adapters, corners and nipples are selected.
Also, installing a heating battery with your own hands will require shut-off valves. You need to select a radiator type of fittings, you should not get carried away with complex ball valves with the so-called "American", which require professional knowledge. And it will be difficult to ensure tightness without special experience in this area. To connect heating radiators with your own hands to the pipeline, you will need spurs that will correspond to the dimensions of the radiator and pipes along the thread. A sleeve will also be wound onto the sleds - after twisting it is inserted into the battery. It is worth noting that when you buy cast iron radiators, you need to check before installation whether the brackets match the material of the wall on which they will be mounted.
Stopcock installation
In order to be able to release air from the battery, you need to put a Mayevsky crane on it. As a rule, it is in the factory configuration, but if not, then buy it.
We calculate the location
Those who are going to install a heating radiator with their own hands should take into account that the sections of pipes that lead to the devices must be placed with a slope (slight) - in the direction of the movement of the heat carrier. If the gasket is strictly horizontal or there is a skew in the installation, then air will be concentrated in the batteries made of cast iron and steel. You will have to regularly blow it out manually so that the heat transfer does not decrease.
It is better if the central axis of the battery coincides with the axis that goes through the center of the window.
Deviations can be no more than 2 cm, such that will not be determined visually. But such a recommendation does not apply to strict requirements.
Marking the central axis of the radiator
Do-it-yourself installation of heating batteries involves the implementation of several strict rules:
- The components of the connection to the heating radiators should be placed so that the slope is 0.005, it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. So, 1 m of the pipeline will have to slope towards the circulation - and at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination must be determined by the length of the pipe sections that are installed.
- From the floor surface to the radiator should be 6-10 cm or more.
- From the lower outline of the window sill to the upper outline of the battery - 5-10 cm.
- From the plane of the wall to the battery - 3-5 cm.
- Be sure to observe the horizontal and vertical directions.
The slope of the pipes of the heating system
To increase the performance of the radiator, it is possible to install a specialized shield made of a special heat-reflecting material before installation. Or you can just take and cover the plane of the wall with such a composition that has
Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators, installation and connection, photo
Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators. Marking radiators with brackets. Tools and materials for mounting radiators.
Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks
In the old days, it was problematic to install heating radiators on your own due to welding, which was an integral part of the installation. Modern materials make it possible to do without special devices, which makes it possible to install heating radiators in the house with your own hands.
To carry out similar activities in the apartment, it is recommended to involve plumbers of the service company, as it will be necessary to completely disconnect the system from the main line and drain the water. Not everyone knows how to do it right, and a poor-quality connection can turn into a flood of hot water.
Determining the location of radiators
If we are talking about replacing old structures with new ones, then the question of location disappears by itself. In the case of planning a circuit diagram, it is necessary to take into account important factors according to which batteries must create reliable thermal protection. No matter how high-quality modern double-glazed windows are, they are still sources of cold air flow. That is why batteries are installed in almost all rooms below the window. But at the same time, it should be borne in mind that the radiator must cover at least 70% of the window opening. Only then will it function effectively.
Experts recommend during installation to adhere to the following rules:
- the distance from the window sill to the top of the heater should be within 9-14 cm;
- from the bottom of the battery to the floor, a gap of 7-12 cm is required;
- between the radiator and the wall you need to leave a distance of 3-5 cm;
- the heating structure should be placed in the center of the window opening.
Based on the listed requirements, we can summarize that the installation site should precede the choice of model. Only if certain parameters are available, the power and configuration of the sections are selected.
Radiator connection options
The diagonal method involves connecting the supply pipe to the upper part of the heater, and the return pipe from below, but located on the other side;
The bottom connection is made at the bottom of the battery on opposite sides;
The side or one-way method is more often used with a vertical wiring diagram with connection to the right or left side of the radiator.
Do-it-yourself installation steps for heating radiators
1. Preparatory work involves the dismantling of old structures, if necessary. The system must first be completely drained of water. On the wall, you will need to install special fasteners for batteries or check the strength and correct installation of existing hooks. You should also do a study of the wall surface for integrity. Often cracks and gaps form under the windowsill over time. They must be sealed with cement mortar, and a foil insulation must be fixed on a dry surface. Among other options for finishing the wall: plaster with a special insulating composition, plasterboard sheathing with an insulating layer, etc.
2. The complete set of the radiator includes: installation of an air vent, screwing plugs into unoccupied holes in the manifolds. In case of discrepancy between the diameters of pipes and collectors, the connection is made using adapters.
3. Next, shut-off and control valves are installed. To do this, ball valves are installed at all inlets and outlets. They will allow subsequent repairs without completely shutting down the heating system. Thermostats are not mandatory elements, but their use saves coolant consumption on warm days. Therefore, regarding additional devices, each owner makes his own decision.
4. When hanging radiators on the mounts, it is recommended not to remove the protective film from new models. It will protect the surface of the batteries from contamination until the finishing work is completed.
5. The connection of the supply pipe and the discharge pipe is carried out sequentially by one of the existing methods: threaded, crimp, press, welding.
6. The next step is crimping. The water in the system should be opened at low pressure, a sharp start can provoke a water hammer, as a result of which the shut-off valves will fail.
To increase heat transfer and save thermal resources, it is worth fixing a sheet of foil insulation to the wall on the back of the radiator. Penny costs will save up to 10% on heating.
When installing a side-connected battery, you can pre-hang the structures, then make the piping. In the case of a bottom connection, work begins with determining the center distance of the nozzles. The installation of heating devices can be completed after the repair is completed.
In order to rationally use energy resources and save on space heating, it is recommended to equip radiators with thermostats (each device has a separate thermostat). So in each room you can set different temperature conditions, comfortable for living.
The calculation of the required number of sections is made on the basis of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the power of one section, which is indicated in the passport.
Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks
Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks In the old days, it was possible to install heating radiators on your own
Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators
Properly selected and installed batteries are able to provide a cozy atmosphere in the house even in the coldest winter. Do-it-yourself installation of a heating radiator will not cause any problems if you follow the instructions and advice of specialists who will help you choose and draw up a connection diagram correctly, as well as calculate the placement.
Types of radiators
Structurally, all heating radiators are similar, but the essential difference is in the material from which they are made. There are the following types of heating batteries:
Aluminum are distinguished by good heat dissipation and relative lightness, so it makes sense to install them in houses with wooden walls. Their disadvantage is susceptibility to water pressure drops in the system and its chemical composition.
Bimetallic batteries
Cast iron are deprived of these disadvantages, however, their large weight imposes some restrictions. In addition, they are distinguished by a long period of operation (about 50 years).
The remaining two types are considered a compromise between cast iron and aluminum radiators. They have a relatively small mass and good performance characteristics.
For private houses, if you have your own well, it is possible to install heating radiators of any type, but bimetallic ones will be the most convenient in installation.
Site selection and preparation for installation
To install heating batteries, craftsmen from housing departments or specialized companies are usually involved, but this operation can also be done by hand. When carrying out installation work, it is necessary to take into account the location of the radiator relative to the window and the floor, its heat transfer depends on this.
Installation of heating radiators should take place exactly in the middle of the window, the deviation from the center should not exceed 2 cm. Its width should be proportional to the width of the window sill and be 50-75% of its size.
It is equally important to observe the distance between the floor and the heating device. It should not be more than 12 cm. At the same time, the gap between the upper point of the battery and the lower edge of the window sill should not be less than 5 cm. And between the wall and the radiator - in the range of 2-5 cm.
Removing the replacement radiator
If the radiator is installed in your own home, then it should be borne in mind that it must be preceded by preparatory work:
- overlapping water;
- draining water from dismantled parts of the heating system;
- pressure testing of pipes (cleaning of liquid with compressed air);
- dismantling the replacement radiator.
Radiator connection diagrams
Do-it-yourself installation of radiators requires a properly selected connection diagram. It depends on the location of the inlet and outlet holes for the coolant in it. In total, there are three schemes for connecting radiators:
- cross (heat loss 2%);
- lower (12-13%);
- single-pipe (19-20% loss), also called "Leningrad".
Battery connection diagram with thermostat
The choice of connection scheme depends on the type of heating: one-pipe or two-pipe. The first option is most common in apartment buildings. The principle of such a scheme is that the incoming and cooled coolant move along the same circuit. With a two-pipe system, the cooled coolant moves for subsequent heating through a separate pipe.
In private houses with a two-pipe heating system, the lower radiator connection scheme is considered the most popular - it is distinguished by relative ease of installation and low heat loss.
Features of connecting and mounting radiators
When installing radiators with your own hands, it is impossible to avoid certain difficulties. But you can minimize them by following the instructions and guidance provided by our experts.
Aluminum radiators
The installation of aluminum heating batteries requires assembling the sections together by screwing in a plug with gaskets and radiator plugs, and then mounting the Mayevsky faucet and thermostatic valves. An aluminum radiator is installed on special brackets, previously fixed to the wall.
Cast iron radiators
In principle, the installation of cast iron batteries is not much different from aluminum batteries, but the weight of the radiator and the strength of the wall must be taken into account. This is especially true for multi-section cast-iron radiators, their weight can exceed 100 kg.
In wooden or dilapidated houses with fragile walls, it is more expedient to install cast iron not on brackets, but on special mounting legs; they can be sold separately or together with a battery. It is also desirable to use additional props.
To increase heat transfer, the batteries are installed at an inclination of about 5 degrees. It is recommended to make a slope in such a way that air accumulates at the valve, that is, this angle should be set a little higher. Before installation, it is necessary to unscrew the cast-iron radiators in order to check the tightness of the connection of the nipples between the connecting pipes of the sections.
Features of mounting bimetallic batteries
The bimetallic radiator, despite the rather high price, is in great demand. Such popularity of batteries of this type is explained by their high strength and immunity to the chemical composition of the coolant. But they also have some nuances during installation. Installation is recommended to be carried out in a protective factory film, which will prevent mechanical damage.
Wall mounting is done with brackets. Due to its lightness, the radiator can be mounted both on a solid concrete wall and on a plasterboard structure. In the first case, the brackets are mounted to the wall with dowels and cement mortar, and in the second - with double-sided mounting hardware.
When installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators, it is imperative to provide for the installation of a valve (Mayevsky) to bleed air. It should be located at the top of the bimetallic battery. It can be either mechanical or automatic. Each model contains it in the configuration, or its installation is provided in the design.
When installing, it is better to use an automatic valve, as it allows you to remove the air accumulated in the battery without human intervention, thereby extending the life of the device.
Regardless of the type of radiator, do-it-yourself installation must take place in strict accordance with the attached instructions. Having drawn up a clear action plan, having calculated the installation site and using our advice, you can easily install the heating battery yourself. If you decide to entrust the work to a specialist, then thanks to the information received, you will be able to control the process and participate in the preparation of the plan, which will help to avoid problems and shortcomings later.
Installation of heating batteries, do-it-yourself installation with photos and videos
Installation of heating radiators: assistance in drawing up a diagram, choosing an installation site, especially connecting a photo and video radiator, expert advice
Independent installation of heating devices is a task for which you need to carefully prepare. The slightest violation of the simplest process in the opinion of an amateur often leads to negative emergency consequences. Therefore, it is advisable to entrust the replacement of batteries in city apartments to plumbers, on whose powerful shoulders the entire burden of responsibility will fall, and in a private house, installing heating batteries with their own hands can be successfully performed by the owner. However, in order not to have to repair the floors and re-paste the wallpaper after a hot "flood", you should familiarize yourself with the information about the basic rules and nuances of installation.
Preparatory stage of work
The first step is to find out what type of wiring was used when organizing the heating system. The owners who arranged it on their own should know whether the heating network provides heat to their country estates.
Before you start installing a radiator, you should find out a single-pipe or two-pipe heating circuit in the house, the choice of parts and their number depend on the wiring diagram
Parts required for installation
Details are selected depending on the design features. For a battery built into single-pipe heating, it will be necessary. This element will allow, in case of any malfunctions, to turn off only the device equipped with a bypass without shutting off the entire heating system, which is extremely undesirable in frosty weather.
The connection scheme and type of radiator also determine the number of connecting and functional elements required for proper installation. According to the scheme and dimensions, adapters, couplings, nipples, corners are selected.
An inexperienced performer should not get carried away with details for mounting a radiator that are too complicated to install: 1) corners, 2) radiator shut-off valve, 3) "American", 4) tap with an American
The future installer will also need shut-off valves. It is the radiator type of valves that is recommended to choose, without being carried away by too complicated ball valves with an "American" that require professional skills from the performer. Ensuring tightness without experience is problematic. To connect the battery to the pipeline, you will need spurs with a thread corresponding to the size of the radiator and pipes. A sleeve will still be screwed onto the sleeves, which is then twisted and inserted into the battery.
With the help of spurs, it is easier and easier to connect the radiator to the heating circuit - there is no need to weld the joints of the supply and pipeline
It is important to note that when purchasing for installation, you must first check whether the brackets included in the kit correspond to the type of material from which the walls are built.
In order to let air out of the battery, it must be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. Usually it is available in the factory, but if not, you will need to buy it.
An important detail necessary for the correct installation of a heating radiator is the Mayevsky crane, which is necessary to bleed air from the device
How to calculate location?
Those wishing to carry out the installation of the radiator on their own should be aware that the sections of pipes leading to the devices must be positioned with a slight slope in the direction of movement. In the case of strictly horizontal laying, as well as in the case of a slight distortion in the radiator installation, air will “collect” in steel or cast iron batteries. It will have to be constantly blown by hand to avoid a decrease in heat transfer.
It is desirable that the central axis of the radiator coincides with the axis passing through the center of the window opening. Deviations of 2 cm are permissible, absolutely not determined visually. This recommendation is not a strict requirement.
In the list of strict rules:
- The elements of the connection to the heating devices should be located so that the slope is 0.005, it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. That is, one meter of the pipeline must be inclined towards the circulation by at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination should be calculated according to the length of the installed pipe sections.
- From the floor plane to the battery 6-10 cm or more.
- From the bottom line of the window sill to the top line of the radiator 5-10 cm.
- From the wall surface to the radiator 3-5 cm.
When installing a radiator, a prerequisite is the observance of horizontal and vertical directions.
Norms and rules for installing a heating device: distances from the floor, walls, window sill
In order to increase the performance of the radiator, a specialized shield made of heat-reflecting material can be installed on the wall behind it before installation. You can simply cover the surface of the wall with a composition with similar properties.
For aesthetic and technological reasons, radiators in the same room are located on the same level.
Marking batteries with brackets
The sectional principle of selecting heating devices allows you to accurately determine the number of sections required to heat a room with specific technical conditions. Information about the rules of payment must be found and studied before buying. But according to the installation rules, 1 m² of the area of \u200b\u200bthe heating surface of the battery is equipped with one bracket.
Brackets for mounting radiators: home-made on top, factory-made on the bottom, if desired, a home master will be able to do it himself by analogy with factory-made battery mounts
So, here's what to do:
- Taking into account the above rules, we mark the installation points of the brackets.
- Before drilling holes, all distances are checked again.
- We insert dowels into the drilled holes, into which we then screw the fasteners.
If the markup was done correctly, the battery will “lie down” tightly on all installed supports, firmly resting on each of them. Further installation of the radiator with your own hands is to connect the device to the communication system.
Tools and Consumables
The performer will need torque wrenches with dimensions that allow to observe the torque moment with high accuracy. Since the coolant moves through the system under pressure, insufficient tightness will lead to a jet from the junction. Overtightening will cause thread stripping with similar consequences. Therefore, you should carefully follow the instructions that come with each device. They indicate the value of the dynamometric moments.
You will need to stock up with sealant, tow impregnated with oil paint, or a special sealing tape.
Direct installation process
Before starting work, it is necessary to completely shut off the heating circuit, drain the water from the system, and the pump will help to qualitatively remove the remnants of which. Carefully check with the help of a level the battery hung on the supports vertically and horizontally.
- All plugs must be unscrewed from the device.
- Connect a valve-equipped bypass, required only for a one-pipe circuit. A bypass is not needed to connect to a two-pipe circuit; only a squeegee with a valve attached to it is used for connection.
Using threaded rods, we connect the battery to the system, using tow or other sealant to seal the joints (if you have experience in welding, the joints of the rods and the pipeline can be welded).
A bypass is required for connection to a single-pipe circuit - connection diagram: 1 - tee for metal-plastic pipes; 2 - direct control valve; 3 - direct shut-off valve; 4 - adapter for metal-plastic pipes; 5 - rotary valve for air release
It is important to note that until the end of the installation with, and devices, it is not necessary to remove the packaging shell.
Installation completed, but more needed. For its implementation, you will need to call a plumber. Both his experience and the device will come in handy, which does not make sense to buy for the sake of installing several batteries.
The specifics of installing a cast-iron radiator
No matter how intensely the manufacturers of innovative batteries promote their aesthetic ultra-light aluminum and bimetallic products, there are still quite a few adherents of cast iron. The material, which is not pleasing with elegance, retains heat for an incredibly long time, gradually transferring it to the heated space. Those who wish to learn how to properly install a heating radiator made of heat-intensive cast iron should familiarize themselves with the specific design features of the device and its installation:
- Before installation, the cast iron battery will need to be unscrewed, the nipples adjusted, and then the device must be reassembled. Disassembly is carried out on a workbench, using a pair of radiator wrenches inserted into the nipple holes. To increase the applied force and to fix it, a crowbar is inserted into the eye of the key designed to unscrew the lower nipple. To avoid distortion, both nipples located above and below are unscrewed simultaneously. It is more convenient to do the work together. When unscrewing a cast iron radiator, pay attention to the direction of the thread. On different sides of the cast iron radiator, threads with the opposite direction. Have you deployed? Take off the section.
- By analogy, you need to unscrew all the sections, and then group them in a strict reverse order into a single device with the number of sections required to heat a particular room. The assembled battery must be pressed, if a leak is detected, adjust the nipple in the problem area.
- Cast iron wall-mounted batteries can be fixed on brick and foam concrete walls. Walls made of wood will not withstand the weight, so the owner of a wooden house will need radiators with special floor supports. However, supporting fasteners must also be installed on the walls.
- Since in private houses heating is mainly single-pipe, a bypass is being installed. In the connection diagram, there must be a Mayevsky crane and the corresponding shutoff valves.
Connection to the pipeline is carried out using threaded spurs. In wooden buildings, it is better not to use a welding machine.
The technology of unscrewing and assembling cast-iron batteries: a - nipples capture the threads of sections (2-3 threads); b - twist the nipples, dock the sections; c - mount the third section; g - group two radiators
The difference in the schemes for attaching a cast-iron battery to walls made of different building materials:
a) wooden wall: 1) support bar, 2) stand
b) brick wall: 1) window sill, 2) niche, 3) brackets
Whether or not it is worth saving on installing batteries is a personal matter of the owner. In fact, there is not a single particularly difficult moment in the installation technology. By strictly following the sequence, knowing the rules, having studied the information on how to install a heating radiator, you can safely get down to business with your hands, confidently holding radiator, torque wrenches and other tools. True, to achieve success, confidence alone will not be enough. Thorough observance of the installation rules and the formation of impeccable tightness, which guarantees the complete absence of leaks, will definitely help.
One of the stages of installing a heating system in an apartment or a private house is the installation of heating batteries with connection to the mains. It is better to perform this operation before laying pipes, it is easier to make neat radiator connections. We will reveal the remaining nuances of installation work in detailed instructions on how to properly install a heating radiator with your own hands.
The choice of heating devices by type and power
If you have not purchased batteries yet, then before installing you need to choose heating radiators from 4 varieties available for sale:
- Sectional aluminum. They are made of a light alloy - silumin (aluminum + silicon) in the form of ribbed sections, painted with a heat-resistant polymer composition.
- Bimetallic heaters are made in two types - sectional and monolithic, although outwardly finished batteries look the same. Design: inside each section of silumin, a frame of steel pipes is embedded.
- Cast iron heating appliances - designer and Soviet-style - are only sectional.
- Steel radiators are welded from stamped metal (panel) or made by casting (tubular).
Note. In addition to the heaters shown in the photo, there are copper and baseboard convectors. In water systems, they are used quite rarely.
Choose the type of heating devices according to two criteria: price and appearance that matches the interior of the rooms. One caveat: for the autonomous heating system of a private house, any batteries are suitable, and for an apartment with centralized heating - radiators that can withstand a pressure of 12 bar. in a separate manual.
The heat transfer of batteries and registers is specified in the technical documentation of the manufacturer. According to current regulations, the power of the radiator sections is indicated at a temperature difference of the coolant and room air of 70 °C.
For example, the room temperature is 20 degrees, the water in the pipes is 90 ° C, then the section will give off approximately 180 W of heat. Since the coolant rarely heats up to 80-90 ° C, the actual heat transfer will be much lower. Hence the conclusion: take radiators with a margin of 80-100%. Simplified in our material and video:
Almost all types of batteries are offered in 2 versions - with side or bottom connection. Here the choice depends on the method of laying pipes and the installation of liner. So, before installing, you need to consider the question ...
About ways to connect radiators
The connection scheme must be thought out in advance, the position of the heater on the wall depends on it. Example: installation of batteries with a bottom connection implies the installation of a headset with taps, which occupies up to 10 cm of space under the heater. Imagine that 2 lines of a two-pipe system are laid above the plinth, then with a low window sill, the radiator simply will not enter the niche.
Example two: you decide to make a replacement yourself - rent an old cast-iron "accordion" in the apartment and install a modern appliance. Iron distribution pipes will not allow the bottom connection to be realized - only the side connection. To put the radiator in the middle of the window, you will have to build up polypropylene or metal-plastic connections.
Diagonal connection options: on the left is a diagram with a ball valve, on the right - with a thermal head Battery connection methods:
- Lateral versatile (diagonal). The coolant is supplied through the upper hole, exits the lower one on the opposite side, flowing evenly through the internal channels. Heat transfer is maximum, the radiator works efficiently.
- Lateral - both eyeliners are connected from 1 side. Approximately 10% of the thermal power is lost, since the far part of the battery warms up worse.
- The lower versatile scheme is used in horizontal one-pipe systems of the Leningradka type. The efficiency of the device is reduced by 10-20% depending on the pressure created by the circulation pump.
- The purely lower coolant supply is not inferior to the diagonal one due to its design features - through the first vertical channel, water rises to the upper zone of the radiator, and then diverges through the rest of the channels and collects below.
Side connection schemes are more often implemented in traditional systems - two-pipe or one-pipe (except Leningrad), which are mounted openly. The lower connection is a more modern version, the pipes from the boiler are laid in the floor, leaving directly under the battery.
Scheme of one-way connection of a radiator to a two-pipe and one-pipe system of an apartment building. Instead of the top tap, you can put a thermostat with a head, instead of the bottom tap - a balancing valve 4 types of radiator fittings
When starting water heating, the system must be balanced, during operation, repair and flush radiators. To solve these problems, the following shut-off and control valves are used:
- balancing valve;
- ball valve;
- thermostatic valve with thermal head;
- headset for the lower supply of pipes.
An important point. When installing radiators, always use taps with Americans - straight and angled. The union nut connection allows the heater to be removed at any time without emptying the pipe network.
On the left is a diagram of a one-sided connection of a battery with a balance valve, on the right is a lower versatile one (used when installing single-pipe horizontal wiring) How to install radiator fittings correctly:
- When connecting the heater to central heating, install 2 ball valves, a balancing valve is not needed. Option two: a valve with a thermal head can be provided on the supply line to automatically control the air temperature in the room.
- Radiators in a private house are connected as follows: a ball valve at the inlet, a balancing valve at the outlet. If you want to regulate the flow automatically, put a thermal head instead of an inlet tap.
- For bottom connection, use a special fitting with a built-in balance valve from Danfoss, Herz Armaturen, Oventrop. There are models for the installation of a thermostat.
When replacing the battery in the apartment, do not forget to provide a bypass for direct water flow through the riser. Equip the last radiator of an individual heating network of a country house with 2 shut-off valves, you do not have to balance it.
At the bottom connection, the coolant flow is directed to the upper horizontal channel of the radiator Location and installation height of batteries
Radiators should be installed in places of greatest heat loss:
- traditional location - under the window, in the middle of the light opening (when viewed vertically);
- in the corridor near the front door;
- on the landings;
- near the cold walls of living rooms without window openings.
The drawing shows the minimum distances to the nearest structures. For efficient battery operation, it is better to increase them: top and bottom indent - up to 10 cm, rear - up to 50 mm Explanation. When the battery is installed in a window sill, the upward convection current mixes with the cooled air from the window. If stained-glass windows are made in the room instead of the outer wall, it is better to install water or electric convectors in the floor.
If heating radiators are installed under windows, keep the following minimum indents:
- from the outer wall - 2.5 cm;
- from the window sill - 50 mm;
- from the floor - 60 ... 200 mm, depending on the type of heater and the method of its connection.
Unlike aluminum and bimetallic batteries, the depth of steel panel radiators varies over a wide range - from 6 cm (type 10) to 160 mm (type 33). The thicker the battery, the more air it can pass and heat up. This means that it is necessary to provide air supply from below and removal of warm flow from above the heater. Mounting diagrams of steel panels of different types are shown in the drawing.
Mounting height of panel radiators depends on the specific type Recommendation. We do not recommend completely sewing up the radiator after installation, making 2 convective openings with gratings. You will lose all infrared heat flux, which is at least 20% of the battery power. But the air under the skin will heat up to 30-40 ° C, due to the temperature difference between the street and the niche, heat losses will increase.
Installation instructions
To hang and connect the battery to the heating pipes, prepare the following components and materials:
- hooks with plastic dowels for fixing the radiator to the wall - at least 3 pcs.;
- 2 fittings (side plugs) with right pipe thread, marked with the Latin letter D;
- 2 fittings with left-hand thread, marking - S;
- 1 (faucet Mayevsky) with a key;
- 1 plug;
- sealing silicone thread or linen;
- tap, balancing valve, thermostatic valve, headset - according to the diagram;
- polypropylene, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes with an internal diameter of 10-15 mm for eyeliners.
The number of fasteners depends on the size of the heater. An aluminum battery up to 10 sections must be mounted on 3 hooks or special brackets - 2 on top, 1 on the bottom. In other cases, 4 fasteners are used.
Steel panels are sold assembled, hanging brackets are included. Heavy cast iron floor mounted radiators are equipped with legs.
Varieties of wall and floor brackets used for attaching batteries Of the tools you will need:
- an electric drill and a drill corresponding to the hardness of the wall;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- construction level;
- gas key;
- tape measure, pencil.
pre-assembly
The radiator sections are pulled together by nipples - metal drives, on which the left and right threads are cut (half the length). To connect, you need a long key with a nipple nozzle, there is no such thing in the household. Hence the advice: ask to twist the sections right in the store.
Collect the sectional battery in this order:
- Clean the areas around the side holes.
- Screw 4 fittings from the ends, carefully tighten them with a gas wrench. Please note: plugs with a regular thread must be screwed into the right ends of the radiator, with a left-hand thread - into the left (when looking at the front side of the product).
- Close the unused bottom outlet with a plug from the kit.
- Using sealing material, pack and screw the Mayevsky crane into the upper channel.
- In the remaining 2 holes, install the counterpart of the American women disconnected from the taps.
An important point. An American element with a union nut does not need to be wrapped inside the futorka until it stops. Otherwise, the nut will not move away from the edge and will not allow the valve itself to be attached. To screw in, you will need a special internal key, but if you wish, you can get by with powerful pliers.
After mounting the American women, screw the valves and tighten (by hand for now). Panel heaters do not require assembly, unless you have to install an air vent. Do not remove the film from the case - it will protect the coating from accidental damage.
Assembly diagram of the sectional radiator assembly How to mark the radiator mount
We start with preparation - we remove interfering objects, tear off old wallpaper (you can glue a reflective foil screen in their place), we dismantle the old battery in case of replacement. Be careful not to cut the threads on the steel pipes with a grinder. It is better to clean it with a metal brush and unpack the coupling by unscrewing the nut.
Reference. If, for various reasons, the thread has become unusable, you will have to look for a set of pipe lerok and cut the turns on a new one. In open heating systems operating under atmospheric pressure, the use of GEBO type compression couplings is allowed.
How to make the correct markup for the battery:
- Determine the middle of the window opening and mark it on the wall with a vertical line.
- Stepping back from the window sill 7-10 cm, draw a horizontal line with a level. This line indicates the position of the top end of the radiator.
- Measure the distance from the center of the assembled battery to the suspension points, lay it horizontally on both sides of the vertical line. The sectional heater can be attached to the wall and marks are made opposite the two extreme joints.
- Find out the size from the top panel to the radiator mounting point, put this distance down from the previous marks. Get top drilling points.
- The points of the lower suspensions are easily determined: step back another 50 cm - this is the standard center distance of the heaters. There are other sizes - 300, 600 mm and so on.
After marking work, it is worth checking the distance from the attachment points to the floor, the best way is to attach the assembled battery to the wall Before marking, be sure to check the horizontalness of the window sill. If it stands unevenly, and you hang the battery level, then from the outside it will seem that it is the radiator that is fixed crookedly. Then you need to navigate by the slope of the window sill.
The second moment: in order for the air to leave through the Mayevsky tap, the heater is installed with a slight slope. The side of the device, where the air bleeder is located, rises literally by 1-2 mm, visually such a bias will remain invisible.
When replacing a radiator with a connection to existing pipes, you will have to measure their position relative to the window sill, then tie in height. How this is done, the wizard will show in the video:
Final stage
The final installation of heating radiators is carried out according to simple rules:
- Drill holes, hammer in dowels and attach hangers. Hooks for sectional devices are screwed in, taking into account the smallest indentation of 25 mm.
- Hang the battery on the brackets and try on the eyeliners. For convenience, draw lines on the wall.
- Remove the radiator and do the preliminary work - punch grooves for a hidden gasket, connect the leads to the lines, stick a reflective screen.
- Finally install the heater, connect the pipes and tighten the Americans.
In the photo on the left - a side connection unit with a bypass, on the right - a bottom connection with hidden connections
To successfully fill the system with coolant, leave the shut-off taps and valves open. The manual air vent must remain closed, it is used in the process of pumping water or antifreeze.
When replacing a central heating radiator in high season, it is necessary to close the entire riser. At the end of the installation, close the taps at the battery inlet, then supply water to the riser. When the noise of the coolant subsides, slowly open the top valve first, then the bottom one. from the battery.
How to hang a battery on an insulated wall
Sometimes homeowners insulate external walls from the inside with a layer of foam or extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm thick. When installing a radiator battery, a problem arises - regular hooks are too short, and longer ones experience a cantilever load and bend. It is clear that it is unrealistic to attach to the foam, only to the wall.
A simple solution is offered by our expert Vitaly Dashko in his video. The battery mounting technology is as follows:
- We mark the attachment points according to the above instructions.
- We take a wooden beam 5 x 5 cm (or according to the thickness of the insulation) 600 mm long or according to the size of the bracket for a steel radiator.
- We cut a vertical recess in the foam, insert a beam there and fasten it to the wall with any fasteners - dowels, anchors, dowels.
- We put the heater on regular suspensions attached to the bars.
Watch a video on installing a radiator on an insulated wall:
Conclusion
To install heating radiators with your own hands, you do not need to undergo any special training or have a specialized education. It is enough to remember the nuances of installation, watch a few videos from experienced craftsmen and you can get to work. The only caveat: batteries should be securely fastened, especially cast iron ones. A drawdown or breakage of the bracket will lead to the leakage of the coolant, sometimes quite hot 😊.
