How to make an addition on the doors. Dobornaya board (dobor) for the door frame: purpose, types, installation. What is useful to know about donations

Not everyone imagines what extensions installed on interior doors are. Meanwhile, these elements give the door a finished look. Their installation is not difficult and is quite feasible with your own hands, especially after watching the video with detailed explanations and photos.

What are extras

Visually, they look like horizontal and vertical planks with different textures and sizes. Their installation is carried out between the door frame and platbands, both with their own hands and with the involvement of specialists.

Additional slats are not only functional - strengthening the door frame, but also aesthetic - they mask defects on the slopes. As a material for their manufacture are used:

board - most often coniferous;
Fiberboard, MDF, chipboard, laminated or veneered.

An industrial board is a frame made of wood with thin sheets of MDF fixed on it, which have honeycombs inside, which makes them light, due to this, installation is simplified. The finish of the extensions matches the color of the door frame and the door itself.

What are the types of extensions for interior doors

On sale there are strips of various sizes - from 7 to 40 cm. All extensions are divided into 2 main types. They are:

Tip: if you need to mount extensions on a previously installed interior door, add attached elements that are close to the box and are slipped under it - lining.

How to properly install extensions on the door between rooms

Doborny boards are installed with their own hands, not only when installing a new door, but also on existing doors. The easiest way to fix the extensions is when installing a new design that is installed together with the door frame. They must be placed in the form of the letter "P". The installation procedure is as follows:

Stable stools of the same height are placed in a row and a door jamb is placed on them, while the inner side should be on top.
They check whether all the angles are equal to 90 degrees, for which they measure the diagonals - their sizes must match.
A groove for dobors is selected with a cutter, if it is absent. Its depth and width must correspond to the thickness of the additional plank.

A frame is mounted along the contour of the box under the door, but not solid, but in separate strips of plasterboard or plywood. It is enough to put 2 segments at the top, and 3 segments on the sides. They recommend fixing plywood with nails, and drywall with self-tapping screws.

The upper element is cut out according to the size of the upper groove, and the side parts of the extension along the length of the side parts of the door frame.
Lubricate the edges of the groove with mounting glue or liquid nails.
Insert extensions, give time for the glue to harden.

The temporary frame is dismantled, then the door frame is installed.
The box is leveled: the width dimensions are adjusted using spacers, checking the verticality of the side parts with a plumb line. The horizontality of the top is achieved through the installation of wedges under the side parts of the box.

Cracks are sealed with foam, a layer of plaster is applied flush with the wall.

They carry out the installation of platbands and skirting boards - the installation of the door with extensions is done by hand.

Attention! If a quarter is not selected on the box in order to mount an extension into it, then you will have to put it directly on the outline of the box. At the same time, the additional strip should be fixed with glue applied in portions every 100-150 mm. When the foam dries and expands, the empty spaces will be filled.

Installation of standard simple extensions on self-tapping screws

Do-it-yourself installation is carried out in several steps:

No matter how complex operations you have to perform when installing extensions, the result is worth it. Having done everything yourself, you will be convinced of this.

How to install an extension on the door: video

Addition to the interior door: photo

Installation of entrance and interior doors can not always go smoothly. The door frame and the thickness of the wall in the room can vary significantly. In this case, a special installation of extensions on the door will be required. What it is and how to choose and install these components correctly will be discussed in this article.

Peculiarities

Before proceeding to describe the features of such a procedure as installing extensions, you need to familiarize yourself with what it is and what they are generally used for. Dobor is a special plank made of wood or MDF, with which you can equalize the thickness of the door frame and the wall itself. If this is not done, then a gap will be visible between the box and the wall, which over time can lead to loosening of the door leaf itself. Such a device is attached to the top of the door structure.

The main feature of the installation of extensions on the door is that it is carried out on the opposite side of the door hinges. This is the only way to make sure that the canvas opens and closes freely. The second feature lies in the fact that even when installing these parts, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 mm between the upper part of the door itself and its box.

If the extensions interfere with the opening of the door, it is necessary to install special substrates on the side of the hinges, next to the slopes. Before installing them, it is required to remove the top layer of plaster.

And another difficulty lies in the choice of the extensions themselves. It is best to purchase those products that are made of the same material as the door leaf itself and its frame.

An inattentive attitude to these features will simply lead to the fact that the extensions themselves will quickly wear out or break. The door structure will begin to settle and deform. It is imperative that after direct installation, carefully process the extension itself. This can be done with a protective coating, furniture varnish or paint of a suitable size.

The installation of the extensions themselves, as well as their subsequent finishing, in fact, takes little time. But only on condition that the type of this product was correctly selected.

It should also be understood that the use of such details allows not only to equalize the thickness of the box and walls, but also beautifully decorate the doorway itself.

Kinds

Today, there are three main types of door extensions:

Standard or regular It is a regular rail, which can be finished with veneer, or maybe without it. This is the simplest version of this product, which, if necessary, can be easily and quickly made independently. The standard width of this type is from 100 to 200 mm.
Telescopic dobor is an improved version of the previous version. The difference lies in the obvious similarity with the lining. Each element of such an extension is assembled like a puzzle, due to the presence, on the one hand, of a special groove, and on the other, a small spike. It is this design that allows you to beautifully decorate a door of any size. The width of the telescopic dobor varies from 90 to 150 mm.
Combined supplement got its name not only because it allows you to equalize the thickness of the door frame and the wall, but also plays the role of a casing. In appearance, it is a corner with ends for fastening. He himself is directly connected with the door structure, namely the box.

How to choose?

Despite the fact that there are not so many varieties of this product, it is often difficult for ordinary people to choose the most suitable type.

In order not to be disappointed in the purchase and so that there are no difficulties during the installation of the add-on, some nuances should be taken into account:

It is necessary to determine the width of the extension itself. In order for this indicator to be accurate, measurements should be taken at several points on the top of the door itself, on the right and left sides.
The length of the extension should be slightly larger than the length of the gap itself. Extra centimeters, if necessary, can be removed in a few seconds.
If the installation of these parts will be carried out independently, then all the necessary parts, including the extensions themselves, should be purchased with a small margin. This is necessary so that in case of any malfunctions, you can immediately complete the installation correctly, and not quit your job and run back to the store.
Dobors should be chosen in the same color scheme as the frame itself and the door leaf. It would be even better if they not only have the same color, but are also made of similar materials.
When choosing extensions for interior doors and steel entrance panels, you should follow the same recommendations. The selection will be the same, but the installation will be slightly different.
Extras are a product that is not worth saving on. Not only the general appearance of the doorway, but also the duration of the high-quality operation of the door itself will depend on its quality.

How to count?

Before you go to the store and choose the right add-ons, you need to correctly calculate the required number of them. In order to avoid having to run after the missing part again during the installation process, or, conversely, to throw out the leftovers, you should correctly calculate their required number.

First you need to decide that the height of the extensions comes from the height of the doors. If we talk about door leafs of a standard size, then their height is 2000 m, the height of the extension in this case will be similar. But more attention should be paid to the width of these products, which can vary in the range of 50-500 mm. Their height can also be different.

To avoid the wrong purchase, the calculation of the required number of extras and their sizes should be performed in several stages:

It is necessary to make sure that there is a special groove in the box of the future door leaf, into which the extension will be installed. This is a very important point, because it is worth considering that the component will be inserted into it, which means it will decrease in size.
Armed with a tape measure, you should put it in the place where it comes into contact with the box. It is necessary to note the resulting distance, it will indicate the edge of the wall. It is worth remembering that the walls in any room are almost never even, so measurements should be taken several times, both from right to left and vice versa. But measure the right one only at the top.
The base of the size of the future addition will be the widest distance. If it is a little wider, it can easily be narrowed to the desired width.

If the measurements were taken at a time when the old box had not yet been dismantled, in the store, when buying a box of extensions, it is necessary to subtract the width of the acquired door structure from the obtained value.

It can be assumed that the width of the wall is 200 mm, and the purchased box has a width of 75 mm. It turns out that the additional board should have a width of 125 mm. It is still better to purchase an extension with a width of 200 mm, and cut off everything that will be superfluous during installation.

Mounting

After all the measurements have been made, and the necessary components and tools have been purchased, you can begin to install the extensions with your own hands. At the same time, they need to be mounted a little differently, depending on their type of addition.

Normal

Here, too, there is a slight division. There are extensions with a groove, and there are without it. Each case has its own nuances.

First you need to qualitatively and reliably install and secure the door unit, and only after that proceed directly to the installation:

In the event that the box has a groove for adding, it must be thoroughly cleaned of any internal dirt and debris, as they may affect the smooth installation of the product.
Now the upper bar is inserted for preliminary evaluation, and the necessary marks are made, which are then connected in a line. In accordance with the markup, the board and side extensions are cut.
Now these components are inserted into the groove, aligned and carefully filled with mounting foam from above.
If there are no grooves for extensions, then they can be attached directly to the bars that are fixed to the wall. The elements of the extensions are fixed with self-tapping screws to the bars at the same distance. Then the rail is stuffed, but only from the outside, and the extensions themselves are attached to it.

Perhaps the description of such a procedure is a little incomprehensible, but when you start using these tips in practice, you can easily see the opposite.

Telescopic

This procedure does not have any significant differences in performance. The only thing is that it will be necessary to increase the extras gradually, and not immediately, as in the first option. And yet, such a procedure will take more time, because each next plank can be laid only after the mounting foam has completely dried on the previous extension.

The technology of work will be as follows:

Cleaning the groove from internal dirt.
The first bar is inserted into the fitting groove and the correct marking is carried out.
Parts are cut to size to fit.
Now the first dobor is inserted into the groove and filled with mounting foam.
After the foam dries, repeat the fourth step until all the extensions are installed.

Some people, in order to save time, first connect all the additional strips to each other, and then I completely mount the shield into the groove. This is not recommended unless you are a professional builder.

Otherwise, gaps will appear between the planks, which will have to be eliminated by redoing the entire work.

Combined

Sheathing a door with the help of such components is the easiest. They do not need to be fixed using mounting foam. All that is needed is to drive the strips into the sinuses of the box. But this must be done starting from the top of the door structure, adjusting the tightness of the connection on the sidewalls of the joints.

By and large, the installation of such components in practice takes no more than half an hour in the absence of proper skills and no more than 15 minutes with the already existing experience in performing such work.

The main thing is to prepare all the necessary materials and tools in advance, as well as carefully follow the instructions.

What to install instead of add-ons?

Some people believe, unfortunately, that putting up an additional bar is much more troublesome than trying to mask the gap in other ways. Today there are several analogues of this product:

Putty or wallpaper. Sometimes it is with their help that they try to hide this very gap. About 10 years ago, this would have been the only way, but today it is not acceptable. Firstly, sooner or later the gap will still become visible. And secondly, this design does not look aesthetically pleasing and can visually spoil even the most expensive and stylish door.
Ordinary platbands, which are often installed on plastic windows and doors. But this option is more suitable for decorating street windows. Such a replacement visually spoils the appearance, and besides, it creates the impression of being on the street.

Interior doors are installed at one of the last stages of repair. In addition to installation, the correct choice of dimensions and configuration of the door block is of great importance here. We offer an article on how to quickly, correctly and technologically install doors, platbands and slopes with your own hands.

Dimensions and types of door frames

Before we arm ourselves with a chisel and a screwdriver, we will study the basic norms and installation rules. The door unit must be installed freely in the opening while maintaining gaps sufficient to form a foam joint.

The thickness of the door block assembly is determined by the width of the stacks. For standard partitions made of plasterboard and half-brick walls, the door is installed in a block with a thickness of 75 or 73 mm. In the openings of the main walls, standing 100 mm wide are used. Please note that in the first case, the installation of doors is carried out without slopes.

The standard width of door panels with a height of 200 cm or more can be from 600 to 1000 mm, the dimensions vary in 100 mm increments. For doors with a height of 190 cm, the minimum leaf width is 550 mm, the maximum width is 900 mm. We will start from the dimensions of the canvas to calculate the required dimensions of the opening.

The thickness of the racks of the MDF box can vary from 22 to 33 mm. Factory-made laminated veneer lumber can be up to 35 mm thick, and those made in "garage" workshops - up to 50 mm. Ultimately, the actual size of the narrowest part - the feigned one - is important. To calculate the horizontal dimension of the opening, we add to the width of the door leaf two values of the thickness of the rack in the narrow vestibule. The height of the opening depends on whether the door is installed with a threshold or the floor covering will be laid in a continuous contour. In the first case, we add two values of the thickness of the rail in the front part to the height of the web, in the second - one value plus an additional 15 mm.

But that's not all. For free movement and closing of the door, a gap must be maintained between the leaf and the frame. For doors made of MDF or prefabricated canvases, the gap is 3 mm on each side of the porch. For solid wood doors, the gap is 4-7 mm, depending on the quality of the wood and the assembly of the product. As for the technological gaps between the door block and the opening, it is recommended to adhere to a value of 15-20 mm.

Opening preparation

It is not enough just to make sure that the width of the opening corresponds to the required one at any arbitrary point. The profile of the door frame must fit exactly into the opening in a strictly vertical position, so at least one side should be aligned vertically.

Expanding the opening is not a problem; this is done using a cutting wheel and an angle grinder or a perforator. But sometimes the opening has to be reduced. To do this, on one or both sides, you need to fix a bar of the appropriate thickness. Sometimes, to reduce the opening, a wood lining is installed in it from all three sides.

The fastening of the door block to the walls is carried out due to the mounting foam, which means that the surface of the edges of the opening must have high adhesion. In gypsum plasterboard partitions, openings are formed by the central shelves of rack profiles. It is enough to clean their surfaces of traces of building materials and lightly sand them with sandpaper. Openings in stone walls must be cleaned of dust and dirt, then coated once with a primer.

Assembly and installation of the door frame

The door block frame is assembled from two side posts, an upper crossbar and, optionally, a lower jumper that acts as a sill. Fitting and fitting of parts should be carried out on a flat floor, spreading the front parts with the back part towards you.

First, undercuts are made on both side posts: the protruding bar is cut with a hacksaw with an indent from the edge equal to the full thickness of the stand. This is done for the correct adjoining of the profile bars in the inner corners of the loot. When the undercuts are made, a jumper is inserted between them. Its length should be equal to the width of the door leaf, plus the gaps between the door and the frame on both sides.

The height of the door frame is the length of the door leaf with gaps on the top and bottom or only on the top side for mounting with or without a threshold, respectively. This distance should be set aside when the box is assembled on the floor without fastening. According to the marked length, the racks are simply cut off in the miter box at a right angle.

If a threshold is installed in the lower part, it is cut out longer than the upper crossbar by at least two thicknesses of the stock. If the upper jumper is installed at a distance between the uprights, then the threshold is simply applied to the box from below. Naturally, you must not forget to make undercuts of the central protruding bar. If, as a result, the threshold protrudes slightly beyond the dimensions of the door frame, it is not necessary to cut off the excess.

To fasten the parts of the box together, you can use non-hardened anodized self-tapping screws or furniture confirmations. The connection is carried out in the corners of the box: first, the parts to be fastened must be set at 90 °, and then one pilot hole with a diameter equal to the core of the self-tapping screw or confirmation, excluding threads, is drilled, shifting it from the center by 15-20 mm. When the first fastener is screwed in, the right angle is checked again, after which the second fastener is screwed in, also off-center, but in the opposite direction. If the box is installed without a threshold, its bottom is temporarily fastened with a wooden plank. The bar should be screwed to those places that will subsequently hide under the platbands or extensions.

Installing the box in the opening is a matter of 10-15 minutes. First, the door block is fixed using spacers - wedges cut from foam. You need two wedges for each vertical part of the box and one for the top rail. A polyethylene foam tape is rolled out under the threshold of the box. Due to the soft fixation on the foam wedges, the box can be freely adjusted. On the side into which the door will open, the frame should be positioned flush with the plane of the wall finish. This is done using a long rule attached to the wall with a slight overhang into the opening. Particular attention should be paid to the corners of the box, applying the rule obliquely along two adjacent sections of the wall.

When the door is aligned, it is temporarily attached to the ends of the opening. If the servicemen have an overhead bar with a hidden groove, fastening is done through this groove - with an ordinary self-tapping screw through and through. When installing doors in GKL partitions, this is the only option for invisible fastening. If the door block will have slopes, mounting or U-shaped plates for the plasterboard profile are first screwed to the back side of the stand, through which the box is fixed in the opening.

The value of such an attachment is purely nominal, it is necessary so that the block does not lead from the expansion of the foam. When the door is fixed, all gaps between the block and the opening are filled with polyurethane foam to half or 2/3 of the joint volume. It is important that the foam circuit is continuous. Further work with the door can be continued after 1.5-2 hours.

Hinges and other fittings

Practice shows that it is better to hang the door before the frame is fixed in the opening. Firstly, the door serves as a spacer, preventing the foam from squeezing out the flexible pillars. It is only necessary to lay spacers from 3 mm chipboard between the door and the frame for the period of foam hardening. Secondly, the loot on the floor is simply easier to manipulate when inserting loops.

First, the hinges are cut into the door frame itself, retreating 20-25 cm from the upper and lower corners. The hinge must be positioned so that the cylinder rests almost flush against the corner edge. Parts of loops with pins are attached to the loot, which should be turned towards the upper crossbar. The hinges are first fastened as is, without tie-in, each is screwed with two screws. Next, the plates are outlined along the contour with a sectional knife, this is necessary to cut the veneer, so it is guaranteed not to be undermined in the process of sampling the material.

Next, the loops must be removed and walked along the formed incision with a chisel, turning the blade downward into the sample. Hemming should be done 1-1.5 mm deeper than the thickness of the hinge plate. Thereafter, sampling can be done in two ways. The first and optimal one is to remove the thickness of the plate with a manual milling cutter, 1-2 mm short of the cutter to the hemming line, and then form the edges of the sample with a chisel. The second way is to apply an arbitrary number of notches to the surface with a chisel and remove the material with it, periodically trying on the loop until the plate is flush with the rest of the surface.

To insert the hinges on the door, it is necessary to temporarily insert the canvas into the bow, checking the uniformity of the gaps on all sides. Then, with a sharp knife, two risks are placed on the corner edge of the canvas exactly in those places where the edges of the hinge plates adjoin the door. Now the door can be removed, put on edge, screwed on the hinges, cut around them with a knife, and then - by analogy with the insertion of the hinges on the loot. If one-sided tie-ins are used, the risks must be placed with a pencil along the edges of the cylinder, and then simply screw the back of the loop without selecting a groove.

Locks, latches and sealing brushes are easier to install on the door when hung. First, at the end of the door with a pen drill, a groove is selected for the internal mechanism of the lock or latch. The final shape of the groove must be given with a chisel. Next, the body is installed in the groove, the lock is temporarily fastened with screws, after which the outer bar is circled with a knife along the contour. After selecting the material, the body of the lock or latch is finally installed, you must first drill holes for the square pin.

Installation of slopes and platbands

The final phase of the door installation is coming - the installation of a decorative frame. You should start with the installation of extensions for the formation of slopes. The best way to fix them is with liquid nails, the type of which is chosen according to the material of the walls. The top plank is installed first: it must be cut exactly according to the shape of the upper edge of the opening, taking into account the slope dawn angles. To fix the top extension, you need to apply a flagellum of glue with a thickness of about 5-7 mm on it in a zigzag pattern and press it firmly, propping it up with a long rail.

Next comes the installation of the side extensions. In order to accurately observe the upper dawn of the slope, you need to attach a square to the door frame and mark the height difference that forms the upper extension. The width of the extension is cut so that its edged edge protrudes about 1 mm above the plane of the wall. It is important to remember that approximately 2/3 of the depth of the groove into which the edged edge of the board is inserted must be added to the width of the extension.

Platbands are also fastened with polymer glue. First, all the details must be cut to the size of the opening and the pattern of joining the corners. There are two options here: the planks are either connected by an oblique cut at 45 °, or vertical trims with a straight end are first attached, and then a horizontal element is inserted between them, the edges of which are made with an undercut of oblique slopes. For reliable pressing at the time of fixing the glue, it is recommended to cash out both sides at the same time, pulling them together with clamps.

Dobory for interior doors can be installed independently. The materials needed for this are inexpensive, and even a novice home master can find the necessary tools.

Dobory for interior doors: what they look like and what they are for

Dobory (additional boards) are wooden planks or MDF panels with which door slopes are closed. Such slopes are formed if the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. As a result, the box does not cover the entire end of the wall and bare concrete or broken bricks are visible. Sometimes this area is plastered, wallpapered, covered with plastic, but it is easier, faster and more aesthetic to install extensions.

The design of the door block with the use of extensions

Unlike ordinary slopes, additional boards, as it were, continue the missing width of the box itself, forming a single structure with it. In order not to make a mistake with the tone, dobors are bought simultaneously with the door leaf and cashing.

Benefits of using

Properly installed extensions look presentable and, depending on the overall style decision, bring an element of wealth and luxury or restraint and solidity to the interior.
Attachments are fast and easy, which saves time, effort and money.
During finishing work, the door block does not come into contact with wet solutions, which prevents it from getting wet and spoiled. Extends the life of the door.

Finished design looks nice and modern

Dobori can make your own or buy ready-made. The store will offer additional strips of standard sizes:

length - 2.1 m;
width - 7–25 cm;
thickness - 6–30 mm.

To calculate the width of the additional plank, the depth of the groove in the box is added to the width of the slope, or the width of the box is subtracted from the thickness of the wall, taking into account the groove.

With particularly thick walls, the width of the extension can reach 40 cm or more, but such planks are made to order. The thickness of the trim strip must not exceed the width of the groove in the door frame..

Based on the design features, additional strips are divided into:

ordinary;
conventional with edging ends;
telescopic.

The simplest extension is a straight strip of fibreboard (MDF) or laminate without a facing edge. Many masters believe that sticking a facing edge on the ends is a waste of time and money. After all, one end fits snugly against the door frame, and the second will be closed with a platband. But in this case, the installation must be carried out with special care, because even a deviation of a couple of millimeters will give out a novice master: a gray raw edge will be striking.

The simplest addition is a regular bar

If the end of the extension is previously closed with an edge tape matched tone-on-tone, minor flaws will be invisible. The edge itself costs a penny, and you can stick it in a few minutes using a regular iron. This method is also preferable because the edging of the ends prevents the MDF board from swelling under the influence of moisture. This is especially true for door blocks in kitchens and bathrooms.

A more perfect additional plank is distinguished by the presence of an edge at the ends

The telescopic dobor has the most complex design. Its feature is the presence of special grooves that allow installation without the use of screws and nails. Moreover, it is almost impossible to miss: the dobor fits perfectly with the box and platbands. The width of the dobor is regulated by the depth of the groove. To make a telescopic extension yourself, you will need certain skills and a special tool. It's easier to buy ready-made slats.

Telescopic door extension has special recesses

Necessary tools and materials

When installing extensions, a minimum set of tools is used:

level;
roulette;
pencil;
saw or jigsaw;
plane;
a hammer;
sharp knife.

Necessary materials:

mounting foam;
fasteners (self-tapping screws, nails or "liquid nails");
trim strips.

As a rule, extensions are bought together with the door leaf, but if the doors are not going to be changed, but they only plan to close the slopes, they are used to make extensions:

wooden planks;
pieces of MDF;
long pieces of chipboard;
plastic.

If natural wood is used, it is pre-treated with antiseptic impregnations to extend its service life.

Home-made extensions from ordinary MDF will differ from factory ones, since in industrial designs the inside between two thin fibreboards is filled with cellular material.

Chipboards lose to wood and MDF in appearance and durability, but inside the room, chipboard extensions can be used.

Plastic as a material for the manufacture of extensions is rarely used. And if it is still used, then especially strong, metal-reinforced PVC panels are selected.

Dobors can be made of natural wood, chipboard, MDF panels or plastic

Installation of trim strips

Groove installation

If you plan to use extensions, then it is better to buy a door frame with a special groove. The presence of a groove not only speeds up the installation process, but also allows you to push / push the additional bar deep into the box by a few millimeters, which increases the accuracy of installation.

It is assumed that by the time the extensions are installed, the door frame is already fixed in the doorway. Therefore, first measure the distance from the door frame to the edge of the wall. All slopes are measured separately and each at least four points. As a rule, these indicators differ: even if the box is installed strictly vertically, the wall itself may turn out to be uneven.
It is convenient to take measurements with a construction square
To the width of the slope add the depth of the groove in the door frame. The resulting value determines the width of the additional plank.
With an electric jigsaw or saw, cut the extensions in length and width to the desired size.
Additional strips are bought with a margin in width, and an exact fit is made during the installation process
Dobors are installed in the grooves of the door frame.
The design of the door block using conventional extensions
If telescopic extensions are used, then the door frame and trim must also be telescopic. The entire block is assembled as a constructor, inserting the protrusions of some elements into the recesses of others. For strength, additional strips and platbands are put on glue or "liquid nails". The structure assembled in this way looks like a single whole.
When mounting telescopic extensions, the tongue-to-groove method is used.
The upper horizontal dobor lies on the side ones, forming the letter P.
The upper dobor lies on the side at a right angle
To ensure the immobility of the extensions, they are temporarily attached to the walls and the box with masking tape.
Eliminate the voids formed between the additional strip and the wall, filling the gaps with mounting foam. As a rule, spacers are installed between the extensions. If there are no spacers, the gap is foamed in several stages so that a too saturated layer of foam does not squeeze out the extensions inside the doorway.
The gap between the wall and the dobor is filled with foam
Wait a few hours and after the foam has hardened, its excess is cut off with a knife.
The use of foam during installation allows you to do without nails and screws

Grooveless installation

If there is no special groove in the door frame, the extensions are fixed back to back. Such installation requires very accurate (up to a millimeter) measurements, careful fitting of additional strips and special care during installation.

Measure the width of the slopes in the same way as when installing extensions in the groove.
Trim the slats to the desired size. If extra millimeters remain after sawing, they are cut off with a planer.
An edge tape is glued onto the resulting sections. To do this, the edge is ironed with a hot iron, as a result of which the glue on the reverse side is melted and the tape is firmly attached to the bar.
The edge is glued with an iron
Thin nails up to half are driven into the ends of the extensions in increments of 20–25 cm. If glue is additionally used, three nails are enough for a vertical extension and one (in the middle) for a horizontal one.
Nail heads are bitten off at an angle so that the end is sharp.
Nails are hammered into the end of the dobor and the hats are bitten off
Install the extensions in place - first the side rails, then the top. The vertical dobor is pressed tightly at the bottom, slammed and finished off with a hammer so that the nail enters the door frame. Then nail the middle, then the top. Make sure that there are no gaps between the extensions and the box.
The upper horizontal bar is placed on the vertical ones, the right angle is checked and nailed with a hammer.
After installing the extensions, the nails are not visible
The gaps between the wall and the extension are foamed in the same way as when installing the extensions in the groove.

Platband installation

After the extensions are installed and the mounting foam has dried, the trim is fixed.

Measure the height of the side rails. To do this, add the width of the upper casing to the height of the doorway.
The length of the vertical casing is calculated taking into account the width of the horizontal
The top of the right casing is cut down at an angle of 45 degrees so that the edge of the plank that will adjoin the extension is shorter.
A miter box will help cut the casing at an angle of exactly 45 degrees
Also at an angle of 45 degrees, but in a mirror image, the top of the left casing is sawn down.
Saw off excess length from platbands.
Vertical platbands are put in place and each is baited on two nails - at the bottom and in the middle.
Apply the upper casing and make markings.
It is desirable to bite off the heads of the nails. So they will be almost invisible.
If self-tapping screws are used instead of nails, then a hole is first drilled into which the hat is drowned. Then they are screwed, and the caps are closed with special plastic plugs.

It is not difficult to install extensions for interior doors on your own, although the process cannot be called quick. But if everything is done correctly, the new door unit will become the main decoration of the room.

An interior door separates one room from another and is part of the interior, so it should have a beautiful appearance. From how beautifully decorated the doorway, the impression of the room is created, since it is he who first catches the eye of the incoming person. Since the thickness of the wall is usually much greater than the width of the box, after installing the door, there remains a part of the opening that must be hidden. For these purposes, special decorative elements are used - extensions.

What is an extension for interior doors

In most cases, the thickness of the wall is greater than the width of the door frame. More recently, when replacing the box, it was necessary to carry out construction work in order to somehow ennoble the uncovered part of the opening. First, the slopes were plastered, after which they were primed, painted or covered with wallpaper. Such work requires certain skills and takes a lot of time. Now, to close the slopes of interior doors, extensions are most often used.

The extension is a decorative strip up to 10 mm thick and about 2 m long, which on one side has the same finish as the installed door. The width of the extension is chosen in each case separately, depending on the size of the door frame. Installation of this element takes a little time, any home master can do it. After installing the extensions, the doorway acquires a beautiful finished look and harmoniously fits into the interior of the room.

Dobory allow you to give the doorway a beautiful and finished look.

The door fitting must meet several parameters:

be made of the same material as the doors;
match the color of the door;
have the required width.

In addition to the fact that the additional strips perform an aesthetic role, hiding the defects of the slopes, they also help to strengthen the door frame.

Usually dobors are made of the following materials:

natural board;
laminated chipboard;
plywood.

A large selection of colors and shades allows you to choose extensions that match the door frame so that the whole structure looks like a single whole.

Types and types of additional elements

Although extensions do not differ in great variety by type of construction, before buying, you need to familiarize yourself with their types and features:

Ordinary. These are just slats made of MDF, chipboard or laminate. Eco-veneer is most often used as a coating, a decorative edge is usually made at the end, although there are also raw planks. If there is no edge film on your extension, you can glue it yourself using an iron. It is better to do this, because the edge will help hide surface defects and protect the material from moisture so that it does not swell. The standard length of the additional plank is 200-220 cm, and the width is 100, 150 or 200 mm. Experts recommend buying products with a thickness of at least 10 mm. The main advantage of conventional dobors is their low cost.
The usual dobor is a decorative bar of given sizes
Telescopic. Such elements, according to the method of fastening, are similar to lining, that is, they have grooves for fastening to each other and with platbands. They can have a different color, differ in the way of finishing and are made from the same materials as regular extensions.
With the help of a telescopic extension, it is possible to close slopes of any width.
Combined. They combine dobor and platband. The combined extension is a corner that is installed in special grooves in the door frame. The disadvantage of this solution is that it is impossible to close wide piers with them. But if after installing the door there is 2–5 cm of open space left, then combined extensions are the best option.
Combined elements combine the platband and dobor

The height of the extension corresponds to the dimensions of the door and is usually 200–220 cm. The thickness of the plank should be such that it fits snugly into the groove of the door frame. Usually the groove size is 10 mm, so the additional elements are made the same. Since the thickness of the walls can be different, they produce extensions with a width of 30 to 200 mm and more.

The additional plank can have a width of 30 to 200 mm and even more

If in apartments doorways and wall thicknesses have standard values, then in private houses this is not always the case. Ready-made extensions are often not suitable here, so if the doors and the frame are made to order, then you must immediately complete them with the appropriate decorative strips. If this is not possible, then you can simply dock several additional elements with each other. To get the desired width of the bar, it can be sawn with a regular hacksaw. When joining several extensions on the front side, it is imperative to leave a groove into which you can then insert the casing.

How to correctly calculate

In order to purchase additional sizes of the required sizes, you first need to correctly calculate them. This is easy to do, so you can do everything yourself:

Calculation example: wall width is 250 mm. You have purchased a box with a thickness of 70 mm, which means that you need an extension with a width of 180 mm. Since the nearest standard size is 200 mm, it is necessary to purchase just such extensions. Excess width is sawn off with a hacksaw.

When installing a type-setting or telescopic extension, choose the width of the slats to get the required size.

Installation of extensions for interior doors

Before proceeding with the installation of extensions, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. All dirt, excess foam is removed from the opening so that they do not interfere with installation.

For work you will need:

Before proceeding with the installation of extensions, it is necessary to secure the door block well.

Installation of conventional extensions

The order of installation of simple extensions:

Cut out the material. Using a jigsaw or hand saw, cut the strips of the required length and width.
Dobors can be cut with both a conventional hacksaw and a power tool
The groove in the box is cleaned of debris, otherwise you will not be able to install the extensions correctly.
First, insert the top bar, carefully level it and fill the gap with mounting foam.
The top bar is installed first.
The side bars are fixed in a similar way.
Side rails are mounted after installing the top element

Often, ordinary extensions are fixed with self-tapping screws. To do this, holes are made in the canvas, after which they are screwed to the wall. This work is easier to do if the opening is framed with wooden bars. After installing the screws, they select the plugs to match the extensions and close the heads of the screws with them.

Installation of telescopic elements

The process of installing telescopic extensions is not very different from the previous version. If you want to close a wide wall and the width of one extension is not enough, then you need to connect several planks. Some craftsmen first connect the planks, getting the required width, and only then mount them. If you are doing this for the first time, then it is better to first fix one plank, and after the foam has hardened, another. Although the work will take a little longer, since the drying of the foam during the fastening of each element takes time, the result will be more accurate and of high quality.

The groove in the telescopic extension allows you to adjust its width

Mounting order:

Video: connecting telescopic extensions

Installation of combined extensions

With the help of combined extensions, it is easiest to sew up slopes. For their fasteners, you do not need to use mounting foam.

The work is done in the following order:

If you do not have experience in performing such work, then it will take no more than 30 minutes to finish one doorway with combined extensions, and professionals can do it in 15 minutes. But although the installation process of combined extensions is simple, everything must be done carefully and efficiently. With improper installation of extensions, even the most expensive interior doors will look unattractive.

Incorrectly installed extensions can spoil the look of even the most expensive door, so the work must be done carefully and responsibly.

Non-standard situations

Very often there are situations when the doorway has significant deviations from the horizontal and vertical.

Expansion of the doorway to the outer edge. It is impossible to bend the dobor, as it will begin to break, but it is necessary to hide the slope. In this case, the creation of a frame of wooden blocks, plywood and drywall will help. Thus, an additional even wall is created, which is then closed with an extension.
Skew the box vertically or horizontally. In this case, you can trim the additional elements to existing sizes, but you won’t be able to get a beautiful result. It is better to dismantle the door frame and install it correctly.
The walls are sloped. If it is not more than 5 mm, then it can be corrected with plaster applied under the casing. In other cases, wedges must be used.

How to eliminate gaps after installing extensions

After the additional elements have been installed, the resulting gaps are eliminated with the help of mounting foam. It must be remembered that when solidified, the foam expands and can bend the door frame and extensions. To prevent this from happening, the following recommendations must be observed: