Sheathing the walls of a frame house with a block house. Sheathing the walls of the house with a block house from the outside with your own hands Sheathing the house with a block house with your own hands

Successfully completed exterior decoration of the house is the achievement of several goals at once: improving the appearance, the appearance of a protective layer that protects from external influences and ensuring the correct functioning of the wall cake.

Another important point should be added to this list: the ability to install the skin with your own hands.

The main selection criterion, most often, is the appearance, since the rest of the functions are performed imperceptibly and are greatly extended in time.

The decorative qualities of the sheathing material depend on the taste of the consumer, on his preferences. The wooden paneling of the house is traditional for our country and is well perceived visually. One of the common and spectacular types of wood paneling is the block house.

Block house - one of the varieties of siding. The appearance of the sheathing is a convex oblong strip; in the set, the material imitates a log house. The classic type of block house is made of wood and, according to the type of panel connection and common features, is one of the types of lining. The wall, sheathed with a block house, has the appearance of a wooden house built of logs, but is devoid of the disadvantages of this type of building.

Advantages of a block house:

During manufacturing, the material goes through a cycle of special procedures that reduce the ability to change linear dimensions, warp, crack and absorb water.
Has high mechanical strength, resistant to external influences and easily amenable to various methods of local restoration.
The light weight of the block house does not create an excessive load on the supporting structures of the house.
environmentally friendly material.
It has high frost resistance.
It has high heat-saving properties.

However, there are some disadvantages:

Wood is flammable, even with regular impregnations with flame retardants, the risk of fire remains high.
The material needs periodic maintenance - painting, impregnation, etc.
The vapor permeability of the block house is very low, which makes it necessary to take measures to increase the ventilation of the lining space.
A wooden block house is much more expensive than other types of sheathing.

The properties of the block house are somewhat different from the usual types of wood paneling. Operating conditions, experienced loads and temperature changes put forward certain requirements for the quality of the material. In the manufacture of wood, it undergoes special processing, deep drying, impregnation with compounds that reduce moisture absorption and the ability to burn.

The reverse side of the panel is flat with two or more grooves that compensate for dimensional changes during swelling and exclude surface swelling. The front side is a segment of a circle that imitates the surface of a log in a log house. The connection is made in a tenon-groove, available on opposite edges. A set of panels repeats a neatly made frame made of turned calibrated logs, making the appearance of the facade neat and solid.

Types of block house - which one to choose?

Block house is a material that has many varieties. The traditional view is wooden panels, which, according to the principle of connection and general appearance, are close to the lining.

They have several varieties, divided by the quality of the material:

E- Extra. Perfectly glued wood, straight-grained, without knots and surface defects.
BUT— A clean surface without damage, chips or burrs. A number of small intergrown knots may be allowed.
AT— Some defects, knots or slight flaws in the material are acceptable.
With- There are quite a few shortcomings. The material is used for finishing auxiliary buildings that are not visible from the facade.

In addition to the wooden block house, there are analogues from other materials:

Vinyl.
Metal (galvanized steel),

The panel may have one wave, two or more. Vinyl or metal panels usually have 2 waves. Wooden - mostly one, but options are possible.

Vinyl and metal panels are devoid of the disadvantages inherent in wooden samples, but have their own pros and cons.

The main advantage of alternative types of material is as follows:

Water resistant.
Lack of ability to burn.
They do not rot, fungus or mold does not appear on them.
They do not require maintenance, painting, etc.
They have many color options.

The disadvantages include:

Vinyl siding is brittle in freezing temperatures.
A high coefficient of thermal expansion creates certain difficulties during installation.
Low level of heat and sound insulation.

Vinyl and metal panels are much cheaper than wood, which contributes in no small measure to the greater popularity of these types of material.

Necessary tools for installation and additional elements

The installation of vinyl and metal siding is the same for almost all types and types of material. Therefore, the installation of a wooden block house will be considered, since there are fundamental differences here.

For installation you will need:

Electric drill.
Screwdriver, screwdriver.
Roulette, level, hammer.
Awl for pricking the centers of holes for self-tapping screws.

The list of tools can be significantly expanded, since the order of installation work largely depends on the condition and material of the walls.

As additional elements for a wooden block house, some metal elements can be used - near-window trims, corner overlays, spotlights, internal corners, etc. There are no special wooden elements, the fitting of corners or junctions is carried out by conventional carpentry methods.

Facade surface preparation

Preliminary preparation is the most important stage of work, on the thoroughness of which depends on the durability and quality of service of the wall cake and cladding.

Procedure:

Removal of all foreign objects, dismantling of air conditioners, gutters, brackets, etc.
Inspection and detection of all existing deficiencies.
Removal of old paint, peeling or crumbling areas. The surface must be completely monolithic and durable, all weak areas are removed as much as possible.
Sealing potholes or dents resulting from the removal of problem areas. Putty is used. In the presence of a large number of dents or at a large depth, continuous plastering of the surface is recommended.
The last stage of preparatory work is the application of a double coat of primer with intermediate drying according to the user's instructions.

NOTE!

In no case should you neglect the preparatory work. The condition of the walls should be as close to ideal as possible. After installation of the cladding, there will be no access control or change in the state of the walls. All possible actions should be done in advance.

Wall cake and ventilated facade

A wall cake is a collection of all the layers that make up the wall of a house.(photo of the device below):

The inner wall itself is the enclosing structure.
Warming material.
Vapor waterproofing membrane.
Crate (or, as it is otherwise called, subsystem).
Ventilation gap.
External cladding (in our case, a block house).

Listed the maximum composition of the wall cake. In some cases, there is no need for a ventilation gap or insulation material. At the same time, if there is no ventilation gap, then the insulation is impervious to vapor (polystyrene or EPS). The absence of insulation, most often, requires a ventilation gap to organize the removal of steam from under the skin.

Selection and installation of the crate

The lathing is a supporting structure for the installation of sheathing, which simultaneously performs:

Leveling function in the presence of imperfections in the geometry of the walls.
Forming a ventilation gap.
Supporting insulating material (not the best way, but used quite often).

The design of the crate is a one- or two-layer system of slats. The first layer is leveling, it forms a plane and supports the insulation. The second layer is installed across the first, it forms a ventilation gap and directly carries the skin.

The material can be used wooden bars or, much more efficiently, metal guides for gypsum boards. The lathing is mounted on pre-installed brackets or direct hangers for gypsum boards. To fasten the strips, self-tapping screws with a tip for a drill are used.

Insulation installation

The heater performs at least two tasks:

Reduces home heating costs.
Eliminates the formation of condensate on the walls and wetting of materials, leading to their destruction.

The choice of insulation is a rather difficult task. In order to use the most appropriate type, one must understand the physical nature of its operation. The main property is vapor permeability, i.e. the ability to pass through itself water vapor passing through the walls.

If the insulation vapor permeable(for example, all types of mineral wool), then a ventilation gap must be made.

Impenetrable types of insulation(polystyrene, EPPS) do not require the formation of a ventilation gap, but to remove water vapor, an effective ventilation system will be required.

The insulation is installed on the prepared wall surface.

The most successful course of action:

Installation of brackets for the crate.
Insulation lining. The material is tightly installed on the surface without cracks or gaps. The brackets are passed through the incised sections of the insulation. If necessary, the gaps should be filled with mounting foam.
A hermetic layer of a vapor-hydroprotective membrane is mounted on top of the installed insulation, protecting the insulation from external (atmospheric) moisture.
Wall waterproofing and vapor barrier

Hydro and vapor barrier is made using a special film (the best option is a vapor waterproofing membrane). Protection can be installed either from the inside or from the outside.

Internal installation is carried out using impervious types of insulation(polystyrene, foam plastic, EPPS, etc.). It performs the role of cutting off the internal steam from wall materials, preventing the appearance of condensate and wetting of the walls.
External installation of protection is made on top of the insulation. In this case, the film protects the material from external moisture, while releasing steam from the inside. This option makes it possible to remove moisture from the walls and keep them dry and efficient.

The film is installed in rows with an overlap of 15-20 cm with gluing the joints with special adhesive tape.

How to cut a block house at an angle

Cutting at an angle is carried out either with an electric saw installed in a special jig with markings. Such a device allows you to adjust the position of the saw so that the cut will be made exactly at the set angle.

Another option is to make a miter box - the simplest device in which a hacksaw moves in the grooves of two bars. It takes quite a bit of time to make a miter box, but you will need to precisely cut the guide grooves.

How to join panels on external and internal corners

Docking corner joints of the block house can be done in different ways:

No special action is taken the corner connection is made by installing the corresponding profile additional element.
A planed beam of square section is installed along the axis of the corner, against which the ends of the panels abut. The option is good, but you will need to accurately calculate the thickness of the timber and the length of the panels in order to make the connection as tight as possible.
The panels are cut at 45°, after installation, the panels corresponding to each other on different sides of the corner are connected with self-tapping screws. To do this, in one panel, it is necessary to drill a blind hole at an angle into which the screw head will pass. Thus, the panels will be attracted to each other, you will get a tight and neat connection. The holes should then be plugged with plugs and ground flush.
The most difficult option - the corners of the panels are sawn at 45 ° and precisely adjusted to each other without joining each other.

How is the joining along the length

The following options can be used to dock the block house:

Straight vertical slats against which the ends of all panels abut (similar to H-slats for vinyl or metal siding).
Tight end-to-end butt (needs precise 90° cut).
One end is cut at 90°, the second is also cut at 90°, but in the opposite direction. The joint can be pulled together with a self-tapping screw, providing a strong and tight connection. The screw is screwed in at an angle, the hole is closed with a cork and sanded flush.

Methods for attaching a block house and the procedure for sheathing a house

How to sheathe a wall with a block house? Panels can be attached in different ways:

Through-the-front mounting. The easiest way, but the appearance will be spoiled by the presence of nail heads or self-tapping screws.
Fastening with self-tapping screws screwed into the spike. After installing the next panel, the screws are not visible, which will greatly improve the appearance of the canvas. The disadvantage of this method is the need to screw the screws into the edge of the stud, which will cause a loose connection, it will be necessary to trim the mating part at the places where the screws are installed, the stud may be chipped.
Using clamps. The easiest and most reliable way. The fastener tongue is inserted into the groove, the clamp is screwed or nailed to the crate. The connection is tight, strong and non-destructive.

Panels are mounted with a spike up or down:

The first option is used if the fastening is made on screws, the second - on clamps.
The first panel is installed with a small gap between the supporting surface to form a ventilation gap.
A similar gap is made in the upper part of the canvas so that the air under the skin can circulate freely. The thorn-groove connection should be made as tightly as possible, avoiding gaps in which moisture can accumulate.
When connecting, do not hit the panel hard with a hammer, as there is a danger of flattening the tenon or groove and complicating the connection of the next panel.

pediment finishing technology

Before starting work, you should consider the layout of the panels to get a symmetrical pattern. All end connections are best done in one place so that the vertical strips installed symmetrically create a kind of decorative element.

This is especially important with a large gable area, when the length of the panel is not enough. Panel cutting at an angle can be done both on the ground and directly in place, for greater accuracy, but this option is possible in the absence of a soffit or an unshielded roof overhang.

Block house is a natural material that allows you to imitate a log cabin with a high degree of realism. Accuracy, dimensional accuracy and ease of installation make this cladding one of the most preferred materials, and the ability to periodically tint the canvas and renew the facade of the house allows you to constantly have a new look for the walls, which is unattainable when using other types of cladding. The high quality of the material contributes to a long service life of the skin.

Useful video

Instructions for sheathing a block house house using an example of interior decoration:

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Many people dream of a wooden house, because it is the standard of ecological cleanliness and beauty. But the construction entirely of wood will cost the customer a round sum, which not everyone can afford. Sheathing the walls of the house with a block house is one of the options for saving money and getting the desired effect.

How to sheathe a house with a block house - an alternative to an expensive log house

A modern block house is one of the types of wagon boards, which has the outer side of the panel in the form of a rounded log. This sheathing material is used for finishing the building, both from the outside and from the inside. The main advantage of wall cladding with a block house is its excellent appearance and ease of installation. Each panel has a groove-thorn connection system, which allows you to mount it yourself without special tools and in the absence of professional skills.

Arrangement of internal and external decoration using log imitation is a practical and modern step. Now you will find on the construction market, as well as plastic and metal. Wooden has several quality classes, for example, class Extra and class A are best suited for interior decoration, since they have a minimum number of knots and the absence of any other wood defects. A low-end wooden block house is great for exterior decoration.

Plastic products can be both colored in bulk and have several layers of paint on the front side. It is better to choose mass-dyed, as well as products made from primary raw materials. Siding made from waste has a significantly shorter lifespan.

Advantages and disadvantages of materials - choose carefully

These procedures must be performed at least once every five years, although for a longer service life of the finishing material, it will not be superfluous to re-paint and impregnate every two years. In addition, a wooden block house is one of the most expensive types of such siding.

Metal and plastic types also have a significant disadvantage compared to wood - whatever one may say, they only imitate the appearance of a wood texture.

From afar, the difference will be difficult to determine, but close up, this visual deception is revealed. All species are united by one undoubted quality - during the sheathing of the house with a block house there is an opportunity to additionally insulate the house. Not to mention the aesthetic perception of a sheathed house - even the most nondescript cinder block building will take on the appearance of a village hut, with the attractiveness inherent in such buildings.

Sheathing a house with a block house with your own hands - features of choice

Despite the external simplicity, it is not the most common task to choose a suitable wooden block house for the exterior decoration of the facade of the house. First, you should focus on the width of the block house. The fact is that each manufacturer has its own measurements, and the material purchased in two different places may differ in terms of thickness and width.

Therefore, try to choose the most common sizes. For example, for the exterior of a building, it is best to use wide boards up to 150 mm wide. Secondly, it is necessary to determine the type of wood from which the board is made. For the external siding of a block house, you need to use boards of coniferous trees (spruce, pine, larch) - they have an increased resistance to the rotting process.

It is also necessary to find out from which region of the country this board came on sale. Wood from the north has a higher density, which means it is more durable.. This can be determined even visually - the northern wood between the annual rings has a smaller distance. Naturally, for finishing the facade of the building with a block house, you can use a board not only from the northern forests.

Technology for sheathing a house with a block house - step by step instructions

In addition to the block house itself, you will also need other finishing materials - it is a sin not to use this opportunity and not to insulate the building at the same time. That the sheathing of a stone house, that the sheathing of a wooden house with a block house, have no fundamental differences. To begin with, the walls must be surrounded by a layer of vapor barrier so that moisture from the house does not penetrate outside, forming condensate, which will significantly reduce the thermal insulation properties of materials.

A vapor barrier membrane is available at every hardware store. It is fastened with an overlap, joining strips of 10–15 cm. It is best to seal the joints with aluminum tape. Then you can proceed directly to the cladding of the building.

How to sheathe a house with a block house - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Block house crate

The size of the bars that are selected directly depends on the thickness of the thermal insulation plates. For example, for the central regions, the maximum thickness varies in the range of 10 cm. The distance between the wooden blocks should be no more than 60 cm, although it is best to adjust it to the size of the insulation boards. Before fastening, the selected bars must be treated with an antiseptic. For installation, it is better to use self-tapping screws or special nails (if the wall is made of stone - dowels), with wide caps.

Houses built from natural wood are distinguished by their magnificent appearance and ecological cleanliness. However, the cost of a log house or a building made of glued laminated timber is quite high, and not everyone can buy them. To give the building the appearance of a structure made of natural wood, the cladding of the house with an imitation of timber or clapboard allows. It is quite possible to do this work with your own hands: the home master will undoubtedly cope, especially since the use of special tools is not required. The lined house outwardly practically does not differ from the one made of solid wood.

Lining "Block House" perfectly imitates a natural log

Types of wooden lining for house cladding

Wooden lining is a thin planed board designed for facing work. This building material got its somewhat unusual name due to the fact that it was originally used to protect goods transported by rail from the weather. At first, the boards were fastened in the usual way, then, to facilitate installation, a locking connection with a spike included in the groove was developed.

Such boards have become widely used in facing works, and the name "lining" is not used abroad, but it is simply said: profiled board. The standard for the manufacture of this material developed in Europe, known to domestic builders as eurolining, exceeds the requirements of GOST in a number of parameters. Despite the higher price, eurolining is purchased much more readily, as it has a number of operational advantages.

Lining "Imitation of timber" cannot be distinguished from expensive full-bodied material

Manufacturers of these products produce several types of profiles that differ in the absence or presence of chamfers, the shape and size of the front and back sides, and locking connections. This allows you to choose the material for performing various types of facing work, use them for cladding a brick or log house from the outside and from the inside, for example, a block house. Imitation of a bar is also popular.

On the front side of the traditional eurolining, an additional chamfer is cut near the spike. The chamfer shape can be rounded or angular, rounded corresponds to the name of the profile - "Softline". Lining "Softline" is often used for finishing saunas, since during operation, burrs and chips do not form on the surface, due to the roundness of the joints.

Lining "Landhouse" refers to one of the most expensive types of facing materials. On the front side of the panel, complex patterns are made by milling or other processing methods. With the help of hot stamping under the press, artistic woodcarving is imitated.

Common types of lining

In the profile of the lining "American", in addition to cutting the groove near the spike, a smooth transition was made from it to the outer part. Due to this, the lined surface takes on the appearance of siding panels, although in fact it is sheathed with natural wood.

Lining "Block House" has a rounded front part and is used mainly when facing the walls of houses. Sheathing the walls of the house with a block house gives it the appearance of a rounded log. The imitation of a beam is ensured by using a profile of the appropriate shape and, being simple in shape, allows you to easily sheathe the house from the outside with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall decoration with a block house from the outside

Finishing the walls of the house with a block house from the outside has its positive and negative sides. Subject to all technological standards of production and rules for drying wood, this facing material has excellent performance. These include:

with high-quality drying of wood up to fifteen percent moisture content, the coating does not warp or crack over time;
lining has high mechanical strength;
easily repaired by grinding and staining;
due to its low weight, it exerts a minimal load on the foundation;
has a high resistance to temperature fluctuations in the external environment;
has ease of installation.

Wooden slats for home decoration can have a variety of shapes.

The undoubted advantage of the block house is its aesthetic appearance. In addition, the facing material allows you to protect the outer walls of the house from aggressive environmental influences, ultraviolet radiation, cold, moisture and wind. Finishing provides additional thermal insulation of the walls even without the use of insulation during the installation process. The disadvantages of finishing the walls with a block house include the following:

to extend the life of the coating, it must be periodically processed: paint, apply mastic, varnish, antiseptic, and so on;
the possibility of condensation due to low vapor permeability;
low resistance to moisture;
fire susceptibility.

How to choose the right lamellas

For the correct choice of lamellas, it is necessary to pay attention to the type of wood, the class of lumber and their geometric dimensions. For the production of wooden lamellas, the wood of coniferous and deciduous trees is used. Products made of Siberian larch are in special demand; in terms of performance, they are not inferior to oak profiles, they are distinguished by a beautiful texture and a variety of color shades.

In the trading network

The class of lumber is determined depending on the presence of cracks, knots, resin pockets, poorly processed areas and is divided into four categories. Extra-class products do not have any defects, in class A a small number of knots is acceptable, class B has minor defects, class C includes all sawn timber that does not fall into higher categories and can be used for its intended purpose. The following recommendations will help you choose the right lamellae:

for cladding external walls, lamellas of the same size with a thickness of at least fifteen millimeters must be used;
choosing long boards, you can reduce the number of joints;
high density of wood improves the performance of the material, boards from the northern regions are more dense;
you should not buy boards with a touch of mold, bluish spots, rotten knots;
the moisture content of lumber should not exceed twenty percent.

The colors of wooden lamellas may vary, this allows you to clad the house with a block house, taking into account individual preferences. The most original options are shown in the photo.

The technology of sheathing a house with clapboard - a block house or imitation of a bar - do it yourself

Facing a house with various types of lining is practically the same and involves the performance of work in several stages. First, you need to acclimatize the lumber by keeping it in the environment for three days. If this requirement is not observed, surface warping may occur. Then the lumber is coated with an antiseptic and its installation is carried out. It is also useful to treat the boards with a flame retardant to increase the fire resistance of the building.

The scheme of finishing the house "Block house"

The general scheme of wall decoration with the use of insulation

The general scheme of wall finishing with the use of insulation includes the following steps. First of all, to prevent the formation of condensate, a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the surface of the outer wall. Then the crate is installed, and a material that saves thermal energy is laid on it. To prevent wetting, it is covered with a moisture-proof membrane.

A counter-lattice is installed on top of the structure. On the crate, the actual installation of the lining is carried out. The installed cladding is finished with protective agents. This is the technology of working with a block house or imitation of a bar.

You will need the following tools and materials

In addition to the base material, a roll insulation, a vapor barrier film, a primer and an antiseptic are needed. You will also need wooden beams to create the crate and mounting material. In addition, you will need the following tools.

First we provide a vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is provided with waterproofing, glassine or other similar material. Laying sheets is overlapped with an overlap of fifteen centimeters.

A waterproofing film that allows moisture to pass through on one side must ensure its removal in one direction - away from the house. To do this, its fleecy side is located inward, and the glossy side is outward. It is especially important to comply with this norm when arranging the waterproofing of wooden houses.

Rolls are attached to the top of the wall with adhesive tape. Joints and breaks of sheets are also glued with adhesive tape. You can not achieve a snug fit of the rolls to the wall surface, anyway they will be pressed by the crate.

Then we mount the crate

Well-dried beams used for arranging the crate are pre-treated with a protective compound that prevents them from rotting and igniting. The thickness of the bars is selected depending on the insulating material, but should not be less than three centimeters. The step of the vertical lathing should be equal to the width of the insulation sheets, and the thickness of the rails should correspond to the thickness of the sheet material. In this case, the distance between the bars should be no more than one meter so that the transverse bars lie without distortions.

Vapor barrier and building framing completed

The vertical elements of the structure are aligned with the building level, and this manipulation must be performed with great care, since the slightest irregularities will be noticeable.

It's time to put in the heater

Most often, mineral wool is used as a heater. Laying starts from the bottom of the structure. The sheets of insulation inserted between the two boards hold well, each subsequent layer is laid on top of the previous one. When laying the sheets, you need to carefully monitor that no gaps form at the joints. They can cause serious losses of thermal energy.

We cover the insulation with a moisture-proof membrane

The insulation material, when wet, largely loses its performance characteristics. To protect the insulation from moisture and damage by air currents during heavy gusts of wind, a membrane-type windproof film is attached to the wooden crate with a construction stapler.

On the wall insulation, membrane and "Block House"

Now you need to provide a counter-lattice

On top of the moisture-proof layer, it is necessary to mount another crate, called a counter-crate. It is necessary to ensure ventilation of the outer coating from the side of the moisture-proof membrane. The base for the lining is fastened with self-tapping screws and can be equipped from the same beam that was installed on the wall surface. The bars are protected from fungal attack by special impregnation. The counter-lattice nailed to the bars must be at least thirty millimeters thick to ensure full ventilation of the cladding. For the same purpose, air ducts are made in the upper and lower parts of the facade.

Finishing option "Block house" without insulation according to the scheme of a ventilated facade

Rules for mounting lamellas "block house" in different ways

Installation of block-house lamellas is carried out in compliance with certain technological standards. Sheathing is carried out by sequentially fixing the layers of the finishing and heat-insulating cake. If everything is done correctly, the facing coating will last a long time without deteriorating performance. The rules for installing lamellas are as follows:

Installation of horizontally oriented panels starts from the bottom. When cladding walls with vertical boards, the direction of finishing does not matter.
Installation of lining with a screwdriver and a stapler using kleimers, nails and self-tapping screws
The most optimal way to fasten lamellas up to 20 mm thick is with the help of clamps and staples. To do this, the lower board, located with the spike down, is attached to the crate with screws. Self-tapping screws are wrapped in a board at the root of the spike. From above, clamps are inserted into the groove of the board, which are attached to the crate with brackets. It is more reliable to fasten the kleimers with nails or self-tapping screws, but it is much faster to work with a staple gun. Then, the spike of the next lamella is inserted into the groove of the fixed board. She, in turn, is attached from above with clamps. It is recommended to leave a thermal gap of about 2 mm between the boards.

Fastening the lining with screws and nails
Fastening of thick boards is carried out using self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating, since clamps and staples will not hold a heavy coating. To do this, holes of the appropriate diameter are pre-drilled in the lamellas, which will protect them from cracking. The holes around the cap of the hardware are masked with putty from a mixture of glue and sawdust. Nails can also be used for fastening, but they should be driven in so as not to damage the lock joints, and this is difficult to do without experience.

Options for arranging the interior corners of the "Block House" finish
When cladding walls with horizontally oriented panels, it is better to place them with the groove down and the spike up, which protects the junction from dirt and dust, and increases the service life of the coating. However, this option is possible when attaching the latter without the use of clamps.

Registration of external corners of finishing from "Imitation of a bar" and "Block house"
In corner joints, joining panels requires careful marking, accuracy and time. In addition, in this case, compensation for thermal expansion of structural parts is difficult. As a result, it is better to make joints with a gap, and for decorative design, use special corners planted on glue. Defects and gaps in door and window openings are covered with platbands.

Finishing window openings from the simplest to the most sophisticated

Features of finishing a frame house

The color of the building, finished with "Block House" or "Imitation of timber", can be any

Sheathing the walls of a frame house with imitation of a wooden beam is the best option for finishing it. A feature of the finishing of a frame house is that a vapor barrier film is attached to each rack of the frame. A heater is placed inside the frame and it is firmly fixed. The vapor barrier film is laid on the inside of the frame. The rest of the work is carried out according to the scheme described above.

With the advent of the block house on the market, an ideal alternative to modern eurolining has appeared. This material is produced according to the latest technology and science, and this is not an exaggeration. Finishing with a block house inside the house creates a special atmosphere in the room, gives it a unique effect and fills it with the aroma of freshly planed wood. And if the block house is made of coniferous wood, this has a beneficial effect on the health of residents. If you are interested in technology and want to finish the interior with this material, then you will be interested in this article, which will talk about the advantages of this material and its installation technology.

Advantages

The main and most significant plus of the block house is ease of installation. Even a layman can install it. From the outside, the product has a tubular shape, and on the ribs there are special grooves-fasteners for docking. Special attention deserves the environmental friendliness of the product. Wood does not have any harmful effect on the human body. The material itself is quite light, which has a beneficial effect on the entire structure of the house, since there will be no additional loads on the walls and foundation. Finishing the room with a block house improves the quality of the soundproofing of the room.

The use of this material makes it easy to combine or highlight different elements of the design of the room.

Material selection

In order for the interior lining of the house to please the eye as a result, it is necessary to pay attention to the choice of material from which the block house is made. For example, coniferous products are very popular. Spruce has many knots, which creates an unusual sketch in the plane. Pine, in turn, shows a great structure. If you combine them, you get a wonderful ensemble of aromas of needles and an attractive appearance of pine.

If the block house will be mounted in a steam room, then it is better to choose linden or poplar. Needles are not suitable, because at high temperatures harmful resins are released from it. Moreover, these rocks are very hot, as a result of which you can get burns when in contact with the wall in the steam room.

Another good option is hardwood. This wood is quite hard. It perfectly resists mold, fungus and decay. Moreover, the material is resistant to cracking and warping. As a rule, wood is treated with an antibacterial composition. It is better to do this before installation, so the material is well saturated.

Before starting installation work, make sure that you have purchased all the necessary additional elements, namely external and internal corners and docking panels.

As for the dimensions of the panels, you should pay attention to their width. If you are holding a 23 cm wide panel in your hands, then it is usually used for the exterior of the house. For interior decoration, a panel with a width of 8 cm is preferable. However, this is not a rule. The width of the panel can be any, depending on your preferences. Also pay attention to the length of the product. Usually the bar has from 2 to 6 m. Its price depends on the length of the panel, the longer the more expensive. This also applies to the thickness of the bar. Usually it ranges from 2–4.5 cm. For the interior lining of the room, a thickness of 2 cm will be enough.

The installation of long and thin block-house panels visually increases the area of the interior space. This effect is further enhanced by the use of light wood species.

When you have decided on the size of the panels, you also need to take into account the class of the block house. The most expensive building material is considered to be the Extra class. There are no defects on its surface. Approximately one knot is allowed per 1 m of the product.

The use of an "Extra" class block house is usually used in elite premises, since its price is quite high.

If you are not a consumer of such a high class, then consider panels, class "A" and "B". Such products will have minor mechanical damage and knots. Accordingly, the price is much lower. Moreover, the presence of chips and knots is not a big problem. For example, obvious defects can be hidden in unsightly places in a corner or behind furniture.

On the market you can find a block house that imitates timber and logs. The effect of a log is in great demand, since after installation it is extremely difficult to find differences from a natural log. One gets the impression that the house was built of logs!

A simple way to calculate the required material: multiply the height of the wall with its length. Calculate the area of door and window openings. Add 10% to the received amount. This volume represents the amount of base material. Next, measure the inner and outer length of the corners, add the resulting amounts together. The number of crates is calculated according to the following scheme: multiply the number of rows by the height of the wall. If the height of the room is 5 m, then there will be 5–6 rows.

When you have decided on the choice and purchased the necessary material, you should prepare the workplace. It is desirable that a day before the start of installation, the block house adapts to room temperature. To do this, it can be left indoors for a day. After that, it is important to treat the grooves and the back side with an antiseptic, for example, Tikkurila, Neomid or Aquatex. The walls are treated with waterproofing.

Among other things, prepare the tool. For work you will need:

screwdriver;
grinder;
drill;
a hammer;
wood saw or electric jigsaw;
level, plumb or mounting thread;
mounting screw 30 mm;
pump room for varnish and stain;
roller 250 mm wide;
brush 5 and 10 cm wide.

As for the material, you need to purchase:

block house;
beam 40 × 50 mm;
beam 25 × 50 mm;
external and internal decorative corners;
plinth;
stain;
antiseptic;
fire protection coating.

With all this, you can get to work.

All work consists of several sequential processes, the first of which is the manufacture of the crate. It is installed vertically, in increments of 600–700 mm. In each beam, drill holes for mounting dowels or self-tapping screws with a drill. The beam at the corner should be fixed with a level. If the wall is uneven, then an additional element is placed under it. It can be cut from a bar 45 × 50 mm. By the same principle, installation is carried out in the opposite corner.

For fastening, you can use drywall hangers. They will make it easier to adjust the distance from the wall.

To the crate, each board should be fixed with self-tapping screws at an angle of 30-45 °. But here it is important not to rush! Drill a hole in the panel with a thin drill and only then screw in the self-tapping screw. When laying the first plank, make a small indent from the floor, up to 1 cm. It is necessary for ventilation, which will prevent possible deformation of the material. This also applies to the top. For processing external and internal corners, it is better to use special elements. The panel is inserted into them and then fixed. At the end of the work above and below, install the ceiling and, accordingly, the floor plinth.

After the complete installation of the block house, take a grinder and sand the surface. Do not rush when doing this work. One careless move can damage the surface of the board. Next, cover the surface with an antiseptic (if the panels have not been previously treated with it), fire impregnation and stain. In order for the stain to be evenly distributed over the plane, use a roller, and brushes in the corners. After complete drying, repeat the stain application procedure.

If burrs or chips are found at this stage, clean them with sandpaper.

As you can see, there are no special technological difficulties in the installation of the block house. All work must be done slowly and carefully, according to the principle "measure 7 times - cut 1 time"! Also take into account the following useful recommendations that are not included in the material already described:

The moisture content of the material should not exceed KD 8-12%. Otherwise, there is a risk of cracks and deformation.
If you do not want to use corner connectors, make a 30° cut on the ends of the plank on the wrong side. So, the fit of the boards will be tight.
In order not to break the edge of the board, clean the end with sandpaper along the joint.
Before buying, inspect the surface of the product. Often there are falling knots and a green coating that spoils the appearance of the wood.
It is desirable to apply varnish on the block house in damp rooms. The stain emphasizes the structure of the wood product.
To tighten the screws, use special "cue balls". They have a magnetized tip.
Do not use nails when attaching planks.
Lacquer and stain must be made on a natural basis.
Wash the roller and brush thoroughly after each coat of varnish and stain.

There are many tools that will help protect the surface of the skin. For example, wax or special primers can be used. Their presence will require occasional vacuuming to clean the dust. You can also use a slightly damp sponge. Do not use aggressive detergents and abrasive materials in surface treatment.

So, the use of a block house for wall cladding of a wooden house will give the room originality and create an old atmosphere of a log house. With all this, the installation work can be done by hand. It is enough to have a simple set of tools described in this article. We and our readers will be interested to hear about your own experience. Leave comments at the end of the article if you have already sheathed the inner walls with a block house.

Video

The provided videos describe how to work with the block house:

Blockhouse - a finishing material made of wood or completely imitating wood. For a building made of timber or logs, this is one of the best finishing options, as it makes it possible to preserve the beauty and style of a wooden wall and at the same time provide it with maximum protection from external influences.

Finishing a house from a bar with a blockhouse is widely used in suburban housing construction, as it allows you to decorate any building in different ways. How is the decoration of a house made of timber by imitation of a log?

Preparatory work before finishing

A blockhouse is a wooden or plastic panel that externally completely copies the color and texture of a log wall and its semicircular shape.

This finishing option can be used for insulated walls using the ventilated facade technology: it can be used to protect the insulation and at the same time maintain a pleasant appearance of the house.

Log imitation, as a material, is also used in interior decoration, and it can be used to provide a beautiful and stylish interior.

Sheathing a log house with a blockhouse requires lengthy preparatory work, since it is necessary to provide the wall with reliable protection from various damaging factors. The following work needs to be done:

Treatment of the house with an antiseptic. It is carried out in order to protect the walls from decay, to protect them from the effects of fungus, mold and insects. The entire wooden surface is impregnated with antiseptic solutions in several layers, after which it is necessary to wait for complete drying.

Pre-treatment with antiseptics should be carried out immediately after the purchase of wood materials, special attention should be paid to the end parts of the logs and the lower crown.

Flame retardant treatment. These are flame retardants that protect the walls from burning and will save the house in case of fire.
Warming work. For wall insulation, mineral wool is most often used, which allows for air exchange and at the same time protects the walls from freezing. Although the timber has good heat-shielding properties, harsh Russian winters force us to look for additional heaters.

Initially, the caulking of the log house is carried out, a crate is installed on the timber wall, into which insulation plates are inserted. They are covered with a waterproofing film, which is overlapped with staples to the crate.

Only after the wall is completely protected from the cold, you can proceed to the outer skin with the help of a block house. It differs from the usual lining in its shape: outwardly, it imitates a log wall, creating the illusion of an ordinary log house. The blockhouse can have different shades, this increases its design diversity.

Rules for sheathing a house with a blockhouse

Finishing a log house with a blockhouse is somewhat different from a conventional lining. This is due to the characteristics of the material, which requires proper fastening to the wall.

First you need to choose the right material: it can vary in the width of the “log”: the thickness can vary from 9.6 to 22 cm. It can also vary in depth: standard sizes range from 2.2 to 4.5 cm.

The block house panel has a standard width of 6 meters, so for a large house, you will have to deal with the panel joining. It can be carried out by the butt method, while you will have to select the material according to the structure so that the connection is as inconspicuous as possible.

Sometimes the joint is simply covered with a board, which eliminates the visible seam. The blockhouse is installed on the wall using a wooden crate, there are several mounting options:

With the help of a special type of connection - claymore. This is a galvanized latch that is attached to the crate and the panel itself, for this, self-tapping screws are used. The advantage of the method is the ability to provide the most durable connection, even and strong adhesion between the panels is achieved.
The second laying option involves attaching the block house to the boards of the crate directly using holes and self-tapping screws. In this case, it will be necessary to drill the panel and the crate evenly, and then wrap the self-tapping screw, drowning the hat.

An important detail: after completion of work, all self-tapping screw heads must be closed with wooden plugs or special paste. This will prevent rust and ensure a secure fit.

Occasionally, a third option is also used: a galvanized nail is used for fastening, it is hammered into the groove of the board and closed with the next panel. However, this is a rather time-consuming method, which, moreover, can lead to damage to a large number of materials, so it is not used often.

Difficulties in installing a blockhouse

When building houses from a bar, a blockhouse is used more and more often, however, several difficulties can be encountered. First of all, it is necessary to solve the issue of joining the panels at the corners of the building.

To do this, you can use special corners and skirting boards, but they partly spoil the appearance of the building, as they cannot completely imitate a log cabin. There is another solution: an experienced craftsman can hide the corner in the log house itself, in this case, you can make the connection as aesthetic as possible.

Another problem is the arrangement of the ceiling. The last panel has to be adjusted so that it looks as even as possible: if there are gaps, you need to use a wooden plinth. You also need to take care of the design of window and doorways: this will require platbands.

The interior decoration of a house made of timber with a blockhouse is used to close the internal insulation, in addition, this is one of the most beautiful options for creating a neat wooden interior. It is carried out according to a similar principle: the material is attached to the crate with the selected type of fastener.

Finishing with a block house is a simple and economical solution with which you can achieve high durability and external beauty of the house. Recently, this material has become more and more common.

How to protect a house from a bar from precipitation and decay

A house made of timber is one of the most popular construction options, since it costs much less than a brick house, it is built quite quickly, and the finished building has excellent performance characteristics. Wood has been used in construction for many centuries, and it has managed to prove its durability and excellent heat-shielding properties.