Looking at the photo of the Phalaenopsis orchid, few flower growers will remain indifferent to this spectacular flower. In addition, these plants are relatively unpretentious in care. However, they can also be affected by a dangerous disease or harmful insects. In this case, the life of the orchid depends on the correct treatment.

What conditions are required for the Phalaenopsis orchid

Most often, the poor health of an orchid is signaled by its leaves: they begin to turn yellow, wither, dry out. It doesn't always mean illness. Novice amateur flower growers are faced, rather, with a violation of the rules of care.

Orchid owners should be mindful of the natural aging of the flower. Phalaenopsis loses one or two lower leaves every year.

Required level of illumination

Phalaenopsis orchids do not tolerate direct sunlight, but they love good lighting. Therefore, the best place to place them will be the windowsill on the east or west side of the room.

On the south window, an orchid of this species must be shaded, moving away from the glass or covering it with a screen from a source of direct light.

Do not forget that proper growth and healthy development are possible with 12-15 hours of daylight. From mid-autumn and throughout the winter, install additional lighting over the orchids, for example, a phytolamp. This light source is the best option, it does not damage the leaves. The only rule is that the lamp should be no closer than 20 cm from the plant.

If the leaves have darkened, become soft and elongated, then this indicates a lack of light.

External factors: temperature and humidity in the room

Orchids are tropical flowers, they need warmth. For Phalaenopsis, you need to maintain the room temperature within 20–25 ° C. The minimum allowable for an orchid (and then in certain cases, for example, during a dormant period) is not lower than 12 ° C.

The ideal humidity level for this type of plant is 70–80%. It is difficult to achieve such an indicator in the entire room, and besides, it is not very useful for people. The best option would be to regularly air the room (but do it carefully, Phalaenopsis do not tolerate cold drafts) and increase the humidity in one of the following ways.

Proper watering

For a Phalaenopsis orchid, it is better to use water:

• rain;
• settled for at least a day;
• boiled;
• passed through a household filter.

If you wrap 10 g of peat in cheesecloth, dip this bag in 10 liters of water and leave for a day, this will soften the water.

Watering rules:

If the problem is clearly beyond acceptable limits, and is not related to aging or care errors, you will have to look for the cause in the disease and pests.

Video: about the rules for caring for orchids

Table: diseases and pests characteristic of Phalaenopsis orchids

Name of the disease or pest	external symptoms
powdery mildew	Leaves and buds are covered from the base with a white coating, which rises higher over time.
spotting	The leaves are covered with spots in the form of a mosaic, circles or stripes.
brown rot	Light brown watery spots on young leaves and shoots.
root rot	The leaves turn brown, the roots soften and rot.
Gray rot	Gray fluffy coating on leaves and sprouts, brown dots and small spots on flowers.
Anthracosis	Small black spots of a round shape, increasing with time and merging into a large area.
Rust	Light spots on the underside of the leaf, eventually covered with a red bloom.
Fusarium rot	Leaves lose turgor, soften, curl; a pink patch appears.
	Small insects of green or black color are visible on flowers, sprouts and on the reverse side of young leaves. The leaves lose their shape, become covered with a sticky coating.
whiteflies	A mass of white small insects appears on the plant. The leaves turn yellow and take on a variegated color. The plant quickly sheds foliage.
	Leaves change color. Small dots and strokes are visible on the surface of the sheet plates. A silvery film appears on all parts of the plant.
Shchitovki	The leaves are covered with small but clearly visible growths and tubercles, under which insects live.
	A thin cobweb on any part of the orchid. Yellow spots on the plant. The leaves curl up and dry out.
	White coating, similar to lumps of cotton wool, on leaves, substrate, roots and walls of the pot.

Table: how to make a diagnosis by external signs

Symptom	care mistakes	Disease	Pest
Lower leaves turning yellow	natural aging of orchids; insufficient watering; incorrect content during the dormant period.
Yellow spots appear on the leaves		powdery mildew; fusarium rot.	spider mite; red flat tick; whitefly.
Leaves become sluggish		Bacterial spotting.	spider mite.
Sticky spots appear on the leaves		Bacterial spotting.
The leaves are covered with a white sticky coating		bacterial spotting; powdery mildew.
Leaves are covered with black spots	Spraying orchids in conditions of cold and poor ventilation.	Black rot.	Spider mite.
White spots or dots on leaves	too low temperature in the room; frostbite of leaves under the influence of cold; in autumn and winter, the orchid is placed on a cold windowsill.	Powdery mildew.	mealybug; spider mite; thrips.
Leaf loses turgor (becomes soft and wrinkled)	insufficient watering; low air humidity; lack of light; untimely watering in the summer.	bacterial spotting; fusarium rot.	red flat tick; whiteflies.
The leaves are rotting	too frequent or abundant watering; cold, unsettled water is used for irrigation.	Fusarium rot.
Leaves dry	insufficient watering; low air humidity.		whiteflies; scale insects.
The leaves turn red	excessive watering at low temperatures; contact with water on the leaves at low temperatures.	Fusarium rot.	thrips; whiteflies.
leaf scorch	direct exposure to sunlight; low humidity in the room; room temperature is higher than expected.
The leaves are curling		Fusarium rot.	red flat tick; spider mite.
The edges of the leaves turn black		Bacterial spotting.
Mold on leaves	High humidity in an unventilated room.		whiteflies;
Silvery coating on leaves	low air temperature in combination with high humidity; excess fertilizer containing nitrogen.	powdery mildew; gray rot.	spider mite; mealybug; thrips.
White bugs on leaves			mealybug; whitefly.
fungus on leaves	too frequent watering; high air humidity.		whitefly.

Phalaenopsis orchid disease control

Most often, the appearance of the Phalaenopsis orchid suffers due to improper care. If you notice this in a timely manner and begin to correct the situation, the plant will quickly get stronger and take on a healthy appearance. But if time is lost, then fungal, viral and bacterial diseases will attack the weakened flower, which can very quickly destroy the orchid.

The consequences of violating the rules of watering: why the leaves become lethargic and fall off

Phalaenopsis orchids are accustomed to high indoor humidity. Many novice flower growers try to compensate for the lack of moisture with frequent and plentiful watering. This is fundamentally wrong: in Phalaenopsis, from such an attitude, the leaves lose turgor and crumble.

If this happened during the hot season, do the following:

• wait for the substrate to dry and continue to water the flower every 2-3 days;
• maintain the required humidity;
• in the middle of the day, use a fan, placing it 2-3 m from the plants and turning it on at low power.

In winter, water Phalaenopsis no more than 2 times a week, and carry out ventilation by opening windows daily for 30 minutes. It is advisable to do this in not too windy weather.

Edema: what can cause the root system to rot

Low room temperature, abundant watering and water ingress on the leaf plate can lead to the development of edema on the leaves of Phalaenopsis. Because of this, over time, the roots begin to rot. In the cold season, keep orchid pots away from window sills, reduce watering, and remember to remove excess water from the pan.

Exposure to low temperatures: why dark spots appear

In winter, Phalaenopsis orchids need special care, as they are not cold-resistant. Keep the plant warm (at least 16°C) and regularly ventilate, avoid spraying. Otherwise, the leaves will be covered with dark spots of fungal origin.

If you bought a Phalaenopsis orchid from a store and brought it home in the fall and winter, you may run into another problem. The flower is hard to adapt in cold weather, its leaves are frostbitten and covered with white spots. Cut off the affected areas to healthy tissue and sprinkle the sections with crushed activated charcoal.

Fungal diseases: why rot or white bloom appear on the plant

Most often, we owe the development of fungal diseases on an orchid to improper watering, non-compliance with the temperature regime and excessive humidity. Most of all, Phalaenopsis is susceptible to powdery mildew, anthracnose, gray rot, and less often to rust.

Bacterial diseases: for what reason leaves turn yellow or darken

Of this type of disease, the Phalaenopsis orchid is most often affected by brown spotting. As soon as you notice yellowing, darkening or softening of the leaves, the appearance of ulcers with a sticky liquid, immediately cut out the infected areas completely. Grease the edges with iodine.

Viral diseases: is it possible to save the plant

Phalaenopsis orchids are not sufficiently resistant to viruses, and if they become infected, then it is very difficult to cure them. Most likely, the diseased plant will have to be destroyed, since there are no absolutely effective drugs and methods, and the virus can easily spread to neighboring flowers. If you see mosaic-like spots, circles and stripes on the leaves, show the orchid to a specialist who will confirm or refute the diagnosis.

Photo gallery: diseases characteristic of the Phalaenopsis orchid

Brown spot most often affects Phalaenopsis orchids
Rot plows the roots and neck of the orchid
Fungal diseases are dangerous for Phalaenopsis
With powdery mildew, the leaf is covered with a white coating

Video: care errors that cause orchid diseases

Phalaenopsis Pest Control Methods

Having purchased an orchid in a store, do not rush to immediately put it on the window, where other flowers are already located. On the plant and in the substrate may be insects, and often dangerous.

Phalaenopsis orchid pests can infect the plant itself or the root system.

Thrips: who leaves light paths

Since Phalaenopsis is thermophilic, it is most often grown indoors with a high temperature. Tiny thrips (their size is no more than 2.5 mm) also love warmth, so they are happy to settle on almost all types of orchids. The problem is that it is difficult to detect insects: they usually hide in the substrate. Their presence is evidenced by black dots and silvery paths on the leaves.

Thrips destroy the entire plant: juices are sucked out of the leaves and stems, larvae are laid in the roots.

Having found traces of thrips activity, carry out the following activities:

1. Treat the orchid, the substrate and all the plants that were nearby with a solution of Actellik or Fitoverm.
2. Repeat the treatment 3 times every 7-10 days.

Shields and false shields: where did the sticky spots come from

As soon as you see characteristic brown or yellowish tubercles on the stems and leaves of an orchid, you should know that the plant is affected by a false shield. Such plaques are not always immediately noticeable, but they are the "house" of an adult female insect.

The larva of the false shield crawls over the plant in search of a suitable place, after which it sticks to it, drawing out the juices, and eventually becomes covered with a brown film-shield.

Larvae and adults feed on the juices of the flower and leave behind a sticky liquid, which becomes a good environment for the development of fungi and rot.

Shchitovka is also often found on Phalaenopsis. Its shell cover is denser than that of the false shield, rounded-convex and covered with a wax coating. The effect on the plant is almost the same.

Ways to solve the problem

• wash the plant thoroughly with soapy water;
• remove the remaining pests;
• treat the plant and substrate with Aktellik or Fitoverm solution;
• spray again after 7-10 days;
• transplant the flower into a new substrate.

Mealybugs: what is the cause of withering leaves

Phalaenopsis orchids can be significantly affected by the mealybug as this pest is not easy to spot. A small white insect with an elongated body covered with fluff hides at the roots, bases of leaves and at their junctions. The worm sucks the juice from the plant, leaving behind a powdery liquid. You can definitely notice them when the leaves of the flower dry out.

What to do to get rid of the mealybug

• completely remove dry leaves and roots from the orchid;
• carefully examine all hidden areas of the plant, select all pests found using toothpicks;
• every day inspect the orchid for new worms;
• regularly wipe all affected areas with soapy water;
• treat the substrate 2-3 times at weekly intervals with Fitoverm;
• all month examine the orchid. If you do not find new individuals, then the problem is solved.

Whiteflies: why the leaves withered

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by tiny white butterflies themselves and their larvae. Due to their impact, the flower weakens, the leaves dry. Adults lay their larvae in roots and on leaves.

To fix the problem, you need:

• wash the orchid and substrate with soapy water;
• spray the plant with Fitoverma solution, repeat after a week.

Aphids: because of which it is difficult for the plant to breathe

The tiny insects themselves are not so much dangerous to the orchid as their excrement. The secretions cover the leaf with a sticky layer, blocking the plant's breathing and becoming a convenient environment for bacteria and fungi.

The remedy is as follows:

• wash the plant with soapy water;
• treat the plant and substrate with Fitoverma solution.

Ticks: who entangled the buds with cobwebs

An orchid can become infected with ticks both at home and in a greenhouse. There are 3 types of spider mites. In fact, they are almost identical and affect the plant in the same way: they make numerous punctures of the leaves, through which they suck out the juice. These traces are clearly visible on the leaf plates, which begin to dry, turn white and discolor. The buds are falling off.

Spider mite elimination

• collect all the ticks from the orchid by hand;
• thoroughly wash the flowerpot and the window sill under it;
• Treat the entire orchid and substrate with Fitoverma solution. Repeat treatment after a week.

Nematodes: what is the reason for stopping growth

Very small nematode worms no more than 2 mm in size penetrate the stems and roots of the orchid, feed on its juices and poison the products of their vital activity. The orchid stops growing, rots.

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by both adults and whitefly larvae.
Traces of the mite cover the entire surface of the leaf
Mealybugs are not easy to spot between orchid leaves.
In the presence of nematodes, the Phalaenopsis orchid stops its growth
Due to the sticky secretions of aphids, the respiratory process is difficult in orchid leaves.
Thrips suck all the juices out of the orchid

For orchids of this species, well-lit rooms with diffused sunlight are suitable. In nature, phalaenopsis grow on trees, and the sun's rays on the way to them have to overcome the crown. The eastern location of windows is considered ideal. If they are oriented to the south, control the intensity of solar radiation in summer. Prolonged exposure to direct rays is detrimental to the plant. Shading of windows with paper, reflective foil, pieces of wallpaper will serve as protection. Phalaenopsis tends to reach for the light. To keep it stable and aesthetically pleasing, it must be rotated periodically.

Plants placed on the northern and western windows will have less flowering intensity. For proper development and flowering, Phalaenopsis needs 12-, and preferably 15-hour daylight hours.

The temperature regime required by this type of orchid does not contradict what is usually found in most living quarters. In summer it is +25, +28 degrees, in winter - +18, +20 is enough.

One of the main features of these orchids is the almost complete absence of dormant periods.

To lay flowers, phalaenopsis needs a decrease in temperature at night by 5–7 degrees. Such a temperature amplitude is common or quite possible in houses and apartments.

But lowering the temperature to +10 degrees can lead to the loss of the ability of the roots to absorb moisture. The plant transfers metabolic processes to the consumption of previously accumulated reserves, which is fraught with rapid deterioration of the life support system. The roots gradually atrophy, the leaves wrinkle, and the plant dies. Sometimes such a reaction to low temperatures is confused with insufficient watering. And an increase in the amount of moisture in such a situation exacerbates the situation even more.

Phalaenopsis needs fresh air. Frequent airing is very useful for the plant, but it must be protected from drafts, otherwise the plant may get sick.

This type of orchid is quite moisture-loving. For its normal life, it is necessary to constantly maintain humidity at the level of 60–80%.

If during the cold season the room is heated by electric convectors or other devices that dry the air, the orchid must be additionally moistened with a spray bottle. In this case, the root system should be more moistened, and not the leaves.

Diseases and pests that most often affect the plant

Defeat by rot

A separate extensive category in this list are various types of rot. The list of possible symptoms is very wide and depends on local conditions, air humidity, watering intensity and room temperature. We list the most common and pronounced cases:

• brown rot;
• black rot;
• root rot;
• gray rot;
• fusarium rot.

What does a sluggish, blackening leaf say

Some common phalaenopsis diseases show their symptoms on the leaves of the plant. Timely noticed changes in the color, structure and density of the leaves will help prevent the most detrimental consequences.

The most common diagnoses:

• powdery mildew;
• anthracnose;
• leaf spot.

In the case of diagnosing a viral disease of an orchid, it, unfortunately, is not subject to treatment and resuscitation. Such a plant must be eliminated. The most effective way is to burn the orchid.

A separate type of danger is the development of viral and fungal diseases in places where the waste products of aphids accumulate. Such places in themselves become breeding grounds for diseases.

Table: problems encountered when growing phalaenopsis

Treatment and prevention of diseases

As can be seen from the table of symptoms, Phalaenopsis is susceptible to many types of rot that affect all parts of the plant. Such a variety of diseases associated with decay is due to the moisture-loving nature of the flower, the specifics of substrate moisture and instability to prolonged temperature changes.

The appearance of viral and fungal diseases in most cases is associated with poor-quality, contaminated substrate. Less commonly, viral diseases are transferred to the plant from other indoor flowers.

What to do when the plant starts to rot

Treatment of diseases such as brown and black rot in advanced stages (more than 30% of the plant is affected) is almost impossible. If a smaller area is captured by rotting, you can try to save the flower. To do this, you need to perform some kind of operation. Carefully cut out the affected areas with a sterile knife, trying to minimize damage to healthy tissues. After the operation, sprinkle the cuts with coal dust and treat with Bordeaux liquid. The substrate must be discarded, the pots should be sterilized, and a clean, healthy substrate should be poured into them.

During rehabilitation, the orchid needs to create the most comfortable conditions: the minimum allowable air temperature difference (amplitude 5-7 degrees), stable humidification, air circulation in the room, but without drafts.

If other orchids are located in close proximity to the affected plant, they must be treated with Bordeaux mixture (other copper-containing preparations can also be used). The best prevention of such diseases is careful observance of ventilation, humidification, watering and lighting regimes.

If root rot is found in phalaenopsis, urgent measures must be taken urgently. Remove the substrate, dry the pot. Clean the roots of rot, remove the affected areas. After that, the root system must be treated in a special solution (0.2% Topsin or Fundazol). For the most beneficial effect, the roots are immersed in the solution 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days. Such an orchid should be transplanted into a disinfected clean substrate.

Prevention of root rot is the careful observance of the regime of moistening and watering, as well as monitoring the condition of the substrate, its timely replacement.

The defeat of an orchid by Fusarium rot is most often associated with poor air circulation and a violation of the irrigation regime. Such rot affects all parts of the leaves, as well as young shoots. The leaves turn yellow, curl, become soft. Sometimes the process of fusarium decay is accompanied by the appearance of a plaque of fungal spores of a pink hue. With a large-scale lesion, treatment is impossible. In case of local infection, the orchid should be treated in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. This procedure should be performed 2-3 times a day for 10-14 days. In this case, the entire plant can be immersed in the solution along with the pot. Fundazol is the most effective fungicidal drug in the fight against Fusarium rot.

Fundazol is used to treat various types of rot, in particular Fusarium. It is also suitable as a powdery mildew prophylaxis. The main active agent in this preparation is benomyl, which inhibits the vital processes of pathogenic cells, as a result of which they die. Systemic preventive measures using Fundazol will help prevent most of the putrefactive and fungal diseases of orchids. The proportions for the solution are as follows: 1 gram of Fundazol per 1 liter of water. The solution can be applied with a sprayer. Water the soil with a solution, wipe the leaves. After the solution dries, a white coating will appear on the plant. It is recommended to wash off the plaque only after a day. This is a fairly toxic substance, so it should be used in protective equipment. In many countries, Fundazol is banned due to toxicity. It is highly recommended not to contact pregnant women with it.

During treatment, spraying with water should be stopped. Direct drafts should not be allowed to enter the plant, while ventilation is necessary.

As in previous cases, the best prevention of Fusarium will be unconditional adherence to the regimes and rules for caring for phalaenopsis.

The fight against gray rot involves the removal of affected areas, followed by the treatment of healthy tissues with preparations containing fungicides. With extensive damage (more than 50%), the plant will have to be eliminated and all nearby indoor flowers treated with fungicides.

A fungicide is a substance (of chemical or biological origin) that inhibits the development of fungi.

Prevention of gray rot is similar to the steps described above.

Another danger is fungi.

Leaf spot and anthracnose are fungal diseases. Their symptoms are expressed by multiple local lesions of dark leaves. Such damage is more like a dent. Phalaenopsis is affected by anthracnose mainly due to high humidity. Another reason may be the stagnation of water in the bowls of young leaves and at the point of growth. An extensively affected plant is best eliminated. If there are not very many affected areas, they can be cut off, and healthy tissues can be treated with ash. Crushed activated charcoal is also suitable. The substrate should be changed and the pot sterilized. Throughout the rehabilitation period, the plant must be isolated from other similar flowers.

Prevention of fungal diseases is a strict adherence to the regime of watering and moisturizing, as well as the exclusion of water from entering the growth point and sinuses of young orchid shoots. Humidity of room air should be in the range of 40-70%. Airing is quite frequent, depending on the season.

A disease such as powdery mildew has pronounced symptoms. They are characterized by the appearance of a white coating on the plant. Moreover, such a plaque appears on all parts of the plant, including buds and inflorescences. Such a disease develops quickly and leads to the death of the orchid if the necessary treatment measures are not taken in time. A more rapid development of this disease contributes to increased temperature and abnormally high humidity.

The method of treatment involves soaking the plant in a solution of colloidal sulfur. Preparations designed to combat powdery mildew are called Topsin-M, Skor, Fundazol.

Prevention includes periodic spraying of phalaenopsis with Fitosporin.

Viral diseases are incurable

The defeat of the Phalaenopsis orchid by viral diseases is a rare phenomenon. They appear with specific patterns and spots on the leaves of the plant. The affected plant must be immediately isolated from the rest and, without delay, eliminated. Treatments for viral diseases of orchids do not yet exist. At the same time, it is better to burn the orchid together with the substrate and the pot.

Prevention of viral diseases will be the observance of all the necessary regimens for the normal functioning of the flower.

Timely resuscitation will help restore the turgor of phalaenopsis leaves. They include providing the plant with favorable conditions. Change its location in the room. Be sure to isolate the orchid from drafts, to prevent hypothermia. Substrate replacement often helps.

Photo gallery: the most common diseases

Prolonged exposure to low temperatures, high humidity lead to black rot Root rot can completely destroy the plant Fusarium rot is a dangerous enemy of phalaenopsis The causes of brown rot may be the lack of sufficient circulation of fresh air, high humidity in the room Gray rot can cause the death of phalaenopsis This is how anthracnose manifests itself Leaf affected by powdery mildew The plant is overcome by viruses

Phalaenopsis orchid pests and their control

The first measure to save from unwanted guests living in the substrate will be soaking a newly acquired plant in water. All uninvited guests will start to get out. If they were not, then it will be enough to dry the orchid.

Dropped buds, sticky spots - look for scale insects

Prevention will be washing the leaves every 4-5 days.

The use of Fitoverm insecticide for orchids provides for the following proportions: 2 ml of the drug per 50 ml of water. Spray the solution from the spray bottle to the entire plant. It should be clarified that Fitoverm only affects adult scale insects that are able to feed on their own. Therefore, the treatment is always carried out again after 5-7 days. Fitoverm can not be used in conjunction with other insecticides.

Fitoverm has low toxicity to humans.

How to save from a mealybug

White pest on yellowing leaves

The whitefly is dangerous with its larvae. They suck nutrients from orchid leaves. In this case, the plant itself turns yellow, loses its shape and may die. Identifying whiteflies is easy. These are insects of a distinct white color, similar to ordinary indoor midges. Hiding from the back of the sheet.

The fight against the whitefly involves washing the leaves with a solution of laundry soap (proportion of the solution: 1 to 6), spraying the flower and substrate with Aktellik. Washing the leaves with clean water every 4-5 days.

For orchids, 2 ml of Aktellik is diluted in 100 ml of water, followed by bringing the volume of the solution to 1 liter with clean water. It will be usable within a day. It is necessary to spray the solution from a sprayer over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plant. Repeat the procedure after 7-10 days. Do not spray insecticide indoors and be sure to use protective equipment.

Careful monitoring of plants, timely replacement and careful selection of the substrate will serve as a good prevention in pest control.

Root mite - the cause of root damage

The root mite infects the root system of the plant. High humidity promotes its rapid reproduction. The tick lives in an untreated substrate.

Control measures include removing the affected areas, disinfecting them with coal dust, replacing the substrate and disinfecting the pot. The roots themselves are also disinfected, for which a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate is used.

Prevention will be a careful selection of the substrate, its timely replacement and the absence of waterlogging.

Whitefly larvae suck nutrients from orchid leaves Root mite seriously damages the root system of the plant Shchitovka brings the orchid to rapid exhaustion and death Phalaenopsis leaf occupied by a colony of mealybugs When thrips appear on phalaenopsis, you will have to remove flowers and buds, spray the plant and water the soil with a systemic insecticide multiply in incredible numbers, can suck out all the juice from an orchid

Disinfection of pots and substrate

To disinfect the pot, it can be treated with boiling water, sterilized under a stream of water vapor. But such methods can deform containers made of low-quality plastic. The best way is to soak the pot in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes. When preparing a solution, be guided by its color, which should be pale pink, by no means bright, and certainly not purple. Then dry the pot, it will not be superfluous to wipe it with alcohol.

To disinfect the substrate, place it in a container of clean water and boil for 15 minutes, then dry it on a clean towel.

Video: pests and diseases of orchids

Reanimate and restore

Even a practically dead orchid can be saved. Ways to return to life depend on the condition of the plant and the cause of wilting. All resuscitation methods involve replacing the substrate and disinfecting the pot.

Leaves wither and fall

It is enough for a plant with withered leaves to provide the necessary conditions for normal life: first of all, observe the correct modes of moistening, watering, lighting and ventilation.

If the orchid has lost its leaves, then in addition to the above, it is necessary to feed the plant. Nitrogen fertilizers are suitable for this. But it is necessary to monitor the concentration of nitrogen, since its excess can lead to even worse consequences.

Examples of popular orchid fertilizers with a normal nitrogen concentration:

• Greenworld for orchids;
• Kemira Lux;
• Cameleon;
• Oasis;
• Bona-forte.

The method of resuscitation of phalaenopsis that has lost leaves:

1. First of all, you need to inspect the root system. If it is abundantly affected by decay processes (more than 50%), then the plant is practically doomed. If most of the roots are elastic and clean in appearance, then they must be left, the rest removed and treated with coal dust.
2. Treat the prepared root system with a solution of Fundazol. (The proportions and method of application are indicated above).
3. Disinfect the substrate and pot.
4. After that, place the root system in a pot with a treated substrate, and the pot itself in a plastic bag. The package should be spacious, creating a semblance of a greenhouse.
5. You need to tie the bag immediately after spraying the plant with water. The greenhouse must be ventilated frequently, clean air should be run into it once a day.

You need to keep the orchid in the greenhouse until new leaves appear. After their formation, the plant should restore the normal mode of watering and spraying.

Do not let the root rot completely

The necessary care can help even a plant that has lost most of its root system.

Steps to resuscitate the phalaenopsis root system:

1. First of all, the plant must be removed from the substrate and rinsed well in warm running water.
2. Then you should dry the orchid. Within 2-3 hours, it should lie on paper or a towel at room temperature.
3. Inspect the remaining young roots and assess their condition. Usually in Phalaenopsis they have a light green color. Their structure should be elastic. The roots are slippery and soft, must be removed.
4. Remove all dead and suspicious roots. Treat the cut sites with coal dust or special antiseptic preparations. Young root shoots that have a healthy appearance are placed for a day in a strengthening mixture, which is sold in flower shops in the form of ampoules, powders, liquids. By the way, experienced flower growers recommend carrying out the strengthening procedure once a month, especially during the change of seasons. Orchids are watered by immersion in an aqueous solution, where such mixtures are added according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
5. After that, the plant must be placed in a vessel with water. The leaves should not come into contact with the liquid. Change the water in the vessel once a day.
6. After the growth of young roots to a length of 3-4 cm, transplant the orchid into the prepared soil.

Often, a flower has to be fixed in a new pot. This is necessary for better engraftment of the root system.

Phalaenopsis is the most common type of orchid in home cultivation. They are unpretentious in care. Plants with monophonic coloring of inflorescences are in special demand. Phalaenopsis orchids are the least affected by leaf diseases and they are resistant to extreme conditions in urban apartments. However, too low or vice versa high temperature, improper watering, poor soil lead to the fact that phalaenopsis leaves (pictured below) are covered with black and yellow spots. What to do in such cases? This is where recommendations from experts with photos come in handy.

Phalaenopsis - various spots on the leaves and other diseases with a photo

What to do if black and yellow spots appear on the leaves of the phalaenopsis? Description of the cause of orchid disease and treatment with photos from professionals.

The list of adverse factors in which phalaenopsis affects a variety of leaf diseases:

• direct sunlight, but the plant needs a large amount of diffused light;
• lack of lighting, especially in winter. In some cases, they resort to artificial illumination with a lamp for up to 14 hours;
• heavy soil, which sticks together after watering and does not let air through to the roots;
• wrong pot. It uses a container with transparent walls, which transmits ultraviolet rays to the roots;
• the effect of temperatures below +14 degrees;
• cold drafts;
• flower content at temperatures above +23 degrees. The orchid does not tolerate heat;
• alkalization of the soil.

The above factors can leave phalaenopsis without leaves, reduce their turgor, the leaf plate may become stained, the plant may not bloom for a long time or even die. How to treat an orchid for various diseases? Here, only experts can offer advice.

If the conditions for caring for a flower are fully met, then the spots on the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid may indicate fungal and viral diseases.

Phalaenopsis leaves form sticky, glue-like droplets that can be washed off with water. Cause of the disease: honeydew. This is not a flower disease, but ordinary cell juice. It is released by the flower as a result of experienced stress, for example, sudden changes in temperature or cold air currents. However, honeydew is a favorable environment for pests such as scale insects, black fungus, and mealybugs. Their appearance is evidenced by a characteristic white bloom (worm), extensive, black spots (fungal colonies), brown droplets that are easily removed (shchitka). To remove honeydew, the plant should not be subjected to extreme conditions, care must be normalized.

Treatment: the scutellum is protected from contact insecticides with a wax panser. Aktara is used to fight the disease. A solution of 4 g of the drug per 5 l of water is used to spray the flower and a solution of 1 g per 10 l of water is used to water the soil. The procedure is carried out 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days. It is also necessary to replace the top layer of the substrate in the pot without disturbing the root system of the orchid. A complete transplant can harm the plant.

Black spots appeared on the leaves of phenolepsis at their base. At the same time, the spots were initially light brown in color and small in size. Over time, the spots increased and acquired a dark color. The sheet itself is deformed. Disease: black, mushroom rot. It is often referred to as black dry rot. It affects flowers when the soil is waterlogged and the temperature is low. Black rot also appears on the stems of the flower and on its aerial roots. You can prevent the disease by raising the temperature in the room where the flower grows. Watering should be carried out carefully. It is impossible that water
got to the point of growth. Spraying should be carried out in the daytime so that the leaves dry out before night.

If the plant is affected by black rot, the affected areas must be removed. In this case, a sharp blade is used, which must be discarded after the procedure. You also need to treat the flower with Trichopolum, Fundazol, Fitosporin, Sulfur according to the instructions on the preparation.

Black spots on Phalaenopsis orchid leaves can be common sunburn. Black spots are already a severe case. The sun has hit the leaf plate enough. Sunburns are easily distinguished from black rot by their characteristic coloration. When hit by the rays of the sun, the spots on the leaves become yellow and extensive, sometimes whitish in color. They do not extend to other parts of the flower. If you remove the orchid from the sun, then the spots gradually dry out. New leaves grow healthy. With sunburn, be sure to shade the flower. Watering is carried out carefully. Water should not get on the affected tissue. Spraying stops. Over time, it is recommended to remove orchid leaves with sunburn.

How to cure phalaenopsis if its leaves first turn yellow and then turn black. Black spots have yellow and green halo. Orchid disease: Fusarium rot. Causes of occurrence: high soil moisture, a high percentage of peat in the soil, which does not allow the earth to dry out, low temperature of the flower content.

Fusarium rot is caused by a fungus. Treatment of the disease: the orchid must be isolated from
other colors, reduce watering, no spraying. The affected parts must be removed with a sharp blade. Leaves are cut off completely. If there are affected areas on the stem or roots, they are cut out. Sections are processed with green paint. The plant must be treated completely with foundationazole or oxychrome according to the instructions. Plus, treat with tetracycline or Trichopolum (the tablet is dissolved in 1 liter of water). You need to process at least 4 times with an interval of a week. The plant is considered recovered if no new spots appear. New leaves grow healthy.

Brown and brown spots appeared on the leaves of the phalaenopsis. They darken over time and increase in size. The spots are covered with a grayish coating. They are able to cover the entire leaf plate or stem. Orchid disease: gray rot. It affects the flower at high humidity and low air temperature. Treatment: the plant is isolated, the conditions for caring for it are normalized. The affected areas are removed with a sharp blade to healthy tissue. The places of cuts are processed with brilliant green. Further, it is imperative to treat the plant with Oxychrome, Fundazol or other drugs of the same group.

The orchid is a very beautiful plant. It is quite demanding on the conditions of detention, and if you do not properly care for the flower, then trouble will begin. Quite often, white spots appear on orchid leaves. Why this happens, and how to save the plant, we will try to tell you in detail in this article.

Causes of stains

As we have already found out, orchid leaves can suffer due to improper care:

1. In direct sunlight, yellow dots may appear on the leaves. It is necessary to correctly choose the location where your orchid will be located.
2. Excess moisture. The plant does not tolerate excess moisture, it should be controlled that the soil does not stagnate with water, otherwise this will lead to rotting of the root system.
3. Fairly poor ventilation. It is required to check, perhaps the container with the flower has too few holes or they are very small. Optimally - there should be a diameter of at least 1 cm. It is necessary to make sure that the holes are placed evenly on the bottom of the pot and along its perimeter.
4. Air stagnation. It is necessary to ventilate the room where the orchid stands well. But only drafts should be eliminated, as this can adversely affect the general condition of the plant.
5. Wrong container. The orchid pot should not be too tight or wide. The flower still needs to be transplanted from time to time. At each transplant, purchase a tank with a volume depending on the size of the root system.
6. Illiterate watering regime. For some varieties it is not recommended to water from above. This can be explained by the fact that moisture accumulates at its base, inducing the process of decay.
7. Not a good enough substrate. It should be loose, without lumps, all elements are distributed equally. From such a substrate, water should drain normally. After moistening, the earth does not clump.
8. Unbalanced supplements. It is important not only to make competent proportions of the components. Professionals advise at a certain time to make top dressing, their quantity, and also observe the frequency. Here you need to take into account the variety of phalaenopsis, its features.

Diseases

The reasons that were mentioned above can lead to such negative consequences as:

1. The appearance of a fungal infection. The fungus is able to infect the leaves and shoot of the orchid. The infection appears due to low temperature and high humidity.
2. The emergence of bacteria. Their development occurs deep in plant tissues. Often this happens when a phalaenopsis has damage to some part. Another factor of rotting can be stagnant moisture.
3. The presence of viral diseases. Occur due to physiological characteristics.

The main diseases of orchids

Let's analyze the main problems due to which spots appear on the leaves of phalaenopsis.

Hives

When the disease affects the leaves, dark dots form on them. The size of each defect is approximately 3 mm. The urticaria then spreads throughout the plant. The main reasons are low temperature, excessive humidity, poor ventilation.

Brown Rot (Bacillus Cypriped)

The most common disease of phalaenopsis. The disease develops at high humidity, temperature. Signs of the disease are small bright spots that are very common. Then the infected parts become soft, dark in color, have an unpleasant odor. The reason for everything is the illiterate irrigation regime.

Phyllostictina Pyriformis

fungal infection. Yellow and black dots appear. Their size may not change for several months. During this period, the fungus will rapidly develop inside the tissues. As a result, the infection affects the leaf plate, which dies.

late blight

This disease is considered very dangerous for phalaenopsis. Violet color defects appear on the leaves of the flower, which subsequently darken and turn black. Phalaenopsis may die. Such black spots occur due to abundant watering or excessive soil density.

Death of leaf tissue cells (Mesophyll collapse)

Irregular yellow spots appear. Then they seem to push through the infected part. To avoid this, it is only necessary to water the phalaenopsis with warm and settled water.

dry brown dots

With the disease, brown spots appear, which gradually progress throughout the plant. The factor of the disease is high humidity.

Burkholderia gladioli

Bacterial disease, the signs of which are dark spots. Often these spots are mistaken for frostbite.

Bacterial spotting

The leaves are covered with uneven yellow dots about 7 mm. The disease provokes a high temperature regime, unsuitable ventilation.

When the disease forms black flaws on the leaves of phalaenopsis. Then the leaves curl and the flower dies.

Treatment

If your beauty was struck by the above diseases, then you need to take the following measures:

When phalaenopsis is affected by a bacterial infection, the infected parts must be removed with a sterile instrument. Damaged areas are treated with such means as charcoal, brilliant green, fungicidal preparation.

Favorable conditions must be created for the plant: phalaenopsis is installed in a warm and sunny place with excellent ventilation. And for several days the plant is not watered.

Sometimes, unfortunately, there are such difficulties in which the plant dies. For example, when an orchid is affected by late blight or chlorosis. In order to avoid diseases, it is very important to take preventive measures in a timely manner.

Prevention

Initially, it is recommended to carry out competent care of the plant. It is good to study the name of your beauty, its variety, features. Find out under what climatic conditions phalaenopsis grows. Orchid care must be carried out correctly and try to get as close to natural as possible. Only in this case the flower will bloom beautifully and have a magnificent appearance.

Any injury that may occur when removing leaves should be avoided. Since bacteria can easily penetrate through the damaged parts, and the flower may die. Almost always, the first symptoms of orchid diseases appear as spots on the leaves. If you immediately respond and take appropriate measures, then phalaenopsis will delight you with its amazing beauty.

If sticky spots appear on the leaves of an orchid, then they arise due to pests - it can be whiteflies, mealybugs, aphids, scale insects. What to do in such a situation? If you often wipe the leaves with a damp cloth, you can immediately detect pests and get rid of them.

But when it is not possible to eliminate the insect, for example, it concerns the scale insect, which sucks the juice from the foliage and secretes a sticky secret. You can eliminate the pest with an alcohol solution or use Fitoverm.

If the leaf turns white orchids, then this indicates a mealybug, spraying with fungicides is required against the pest.

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Why do spots appear on the leaves and the roots of the orchid turn white?

An orchid is an unusually beautiful flower, which, with proper care, will delight with its flowering almost all year round. But it is with the care of the orchid that certain difficulties arise. Being a native of countries with a warm, humid climate, phalaenopsis is difficult to adapt to life in an ordinary apartment. Spots appear on the leaves, the roots die. So why can flowers and leaves start to turn white and wither?

Problems with leaves: why they fade, where the stains come from

Healthy orchids have dense green leaves that are large enough. If the leaves of the plant have changed color and structure, this indicates a disease of the plant.

Why do leaves lose elasticity (turgor)?

Turgor - loss of leaf elasticity - the result of various care errors

There may be several reasons:

• Temperature too high. In the case when the plant is in the sun for a long time, the leaves actively lose water. The soil is also heated, evaporation is formed in it. Underground roots do not have enough moisture, and, oddly enough, they are supercooled, since the heat of the soil is spent on evaporation.

In order for the plant to be rehabilitated, it is necessary to protect it from direct sunlight, while providing enough daylight.

After normalizing the temperature between the roots and leaves, you can water or wipe the leaves with a damp cloth. You can add some orchid food to the water.

• Hypothermia. When choosing a place for a plant, be sure to beware of drafts: they lead to freezing of the leaves. For an orchid, frostbite will occur already at temperatures below 15 degrees.

It will not be possible to cure it, you will have to cut out the damaged tissue. To avoid such unpleasant consequences, place the flower away from drafts, and in frosty winter, place it further from the windows.

• Pests. Mites and mealybugs may appear on the leaves, which feed on the sap of the plant, it withers, and the leaf loses its hardness and color.

Washing the plant from the outside will help solve the problem with pests. Thoroughly clean the surface of the leaves to remove pest eggs.

Sticky leaves - a direct sign of the presence of a spider mite

If the orchid is occupied by a spider mite, then you can get rid of it by increasing the humidity of the air: place the previously watered flower in a plastic bag. However, in this case, protect the orchid from the sun, otherwise destructive evaporation will occur.

The mealybug feeds on plant sap. In addition, he injects poison, poisoning the orchid, and his habitats become sticky.

What to do to save an orchid from a pest? First, you need to isolate it from other colors. Then remove the worm from the surface and apply insecticides to the peeled leaves.

You should not rely only on chemical exposure: mites and other pests quickly adapt. Fight them comprehensively.

It is always easier to prevent a flower disease than to treat it afterwards. Therefore, it is imperative to inspect the flower daily in order to stop the reproduction of the pest in time.

• Lack of moisture. The main rule for watering an orchid is to water only dried soil. Watering is best done by immersion for one hour in water.

The composition of the substrate affects the degree of moisture in the flower. Unsuitable bark does not absorb moisture, and water will not be able to linger in the plant. In this case, the plant must be transplanted into a good substrate.

For orchids, bark from sawn logs or dead wood of pine, or any coniferous species, is suitable. There should be no resin in the bark.

The reasons for the short life of a flower or bud may be the above problems with the leaves: pests, improper temperature conditions and the orchid watering regimen.

Putting an orchid in the sun is a direct violation of the temperature regime, which has a bad effect on the flower

What needs to be done to cope with these problems, we have already found out. However, a number of features should be highlighted.

If an orchid has been blooming for a long time, it may simply fade and go into a dormant period.	This is a normal process and nothing to worry about.
Pollination of flowers by flying insects	If pollination fails, the flower will wither and fall off.
Being close to vegetables and fruits	They secrete substances that activate the ripening of flowers, even unopened ones. This provokes the death of inflorescences
artificial heating	Hot air dries up flowers and unopened ovaries of buds.
Stress	If the orchid was recently brought from the store, then the flowers may wither due to stress. The plant could be poorly packaged, especially in cold weather: an orchid can drop flowers even at zero temperatures.

Therefore, when buying, be sure to protect the flower from the cold. From the bright summer sun, flowers should also be protected with a simple paper bag.

What diseases are indicated by darkening on the leaves of a plant?

Hives. Dark lesions appear almost immediately after infection. They are small (up to 3 mm), rounded in shape. Spread quickly throughout the flower. The reason is low temperature, excessive humidity, insufficient ventilation.

Bacillus Cypriped or Brown Rot. Dangerous, common disease of orchids. Called pathogenic bacillus. A favorable environment for its reproduction is high temperature and humidity. At first, the spot is small and light, then it darkens and smells unpleasant.

Black rot, like any other type of rot, threatens the plant with death.

Black rot (Phytophthora) is one of the most serious diseases affecting orchids. First, purple spots appear on the leaves, which gradually darken and turn black. This disease occurs due to excessive watering and too dense soil.

Phyllostictosis. The infection infects the leaf plate, which dies. Phyllostictosis manifests itself in different ways: from small black blotches to large black spots.

Burkholderia gladioli. A bacterial disease that occurs at high temperature and high humidity. Decay occurs very quickly. It is expressed in wet spots of dark brown color.

One and the same fungus can be individually expressed on a certain type of orchid. The manifestations of the vital activity of the fungus depend on the quality of the leaves and on the systematic care of the plant.

In addition, several pests can develop simultaneously on an orchid.

White spots on leaves

If the leaves begin to turn white in spots or dots, this may occur for the following reasons:

Excessive watering. When in contact with water, white spots form on the leaves. Nothing can be done about it, the spots will remain on the leaves.

Burn or excessive dryness. These reasons lead to the appearance of wet white spots. Damaged leaves must be removed.

White spots on the leaves are one of the signs that the plant was attacked by a fungus.

Fungal disease. It appears as white spots, similar to a burn. You can fight a fungal disease only with special means. With timely measures taken, the plant can be rehabilitated.

black leaves

In addition to the lesions already described by fungal diseases, the leaves may turn black and die. Why might this happen?

• Some types of orchids shed their leaves after the flowering period, which previously turn black.
• Wrong temperature regime and orchid watering regimen
• The leaves of the plant can infect the mite, often it is located on the inside of the leaf.

Loss of elasticity and leaf density

Loss of leaf turgor is characteristic of root problems:

Root overheating and excessive or insufficient moisture. In this case, the leaf turgor is not maintained, and the orchid will begin to fade.

Remember - even special fertilizers can be harmful in high concentrations.

Wrong nutrition. Do not overdo it with fertilizers. Orchid roots are very sensitive, excess nutrients are detrimental to the orchid.

Too dense soil. If the orchid is not transplanted for a long time, the soil becomes compacted and oxygen access deteriorates.

Orchid root problems: dry

The color of the roots of an orchid depends on the specific species, on fertilizers and complementary foods. Some species naturally have a dark color of the roots, but this does not indicate their pain.

To assess the condition of the roots, it is necessary to carefully remove the plant from the pot, free the root system from the soil and inspect the roots. If they are firm, they are healthy. If the root seems to be hollow inside, it has already irrevocably dried up.

Orchids have two types of horses: air and underground (internal). Underground are in the substrate. Aerial roots are those that are located outside the ground. This is normal for an orchid.

Aerial roots are important for the proper process of orchid photosynthesis.

Causes of drying of underground and air roots

1. Chemical burn with hard water and fertilizer salts.

Wrong watering. Why the roots dry when there is not enough water is obvious. If you keep the root system in constant moisture, the roots will die and, oddly enough, they will dry out or rot.

1. In most cases, white roots indicate that the plant was mercilessly flooded with water and does not participate in photosynthesis.
2. Dry air.
3. Injuries. Roots are easy to break. Even a slight scratch will cause the root to dry out.
4. Vital activity of fungi.

What to do with soft and sluggish roots

As soon as the grower is faced with sluggish and soft phalaenopsis roots, the question arises - what to do? We provide step by step instructions below:

• Free the plant from the substrate.
• By placing the plant in water, it will become clear which roots or parts of them have dried up. All dead sections are cut off to a living root. Treat the cut with cinnamon or charcoal.
• To help the flower release new roots, prepare warm, non-hard water. You need to place an orchid in it. Baths are repeated every day, leaving the flower for an hour in the water. After moistening, the orchid must be dried.

You can use succinic acid, which provokes the growth of roots. As an alternative, use "Epin" or other growth stimulants in a small concentration.

• After the new roots reach a length of 5-6 cm, the flower is placed in a pot with a substrate.

Do not be afraid to try to prepare the substrate yourself - the main thing is to keep the proportions

In order to prevent the occurrence of diseases on an orchid, it is enough to follow three simple rules: keep the flower in a bright place, monitor the air temperature and observe the watering regimen. The rules are very simple, if they are followed correctly, the plant will delight with regular flowering and health.

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Why do dark spots appear on orchid leaves?

Like any living thing, plants also get sick. In orchids, the leaves are the first to suffer. Let's take a closer look at why this happens and what to do about it.

What factors can contribute to the pathological process?

First of all, improper care:

1. • exposure to direct sunlight on the foliage. Carefully choose the location of the flower;
   • excessive moisture. Make sure that the soil does not stagnate with water;
   • insufficient ventilation. Check if the container with the plant does not have enough holes. Or they are too small. Ideal - a diameter of at least 1 centimeter. Make sure that they are evenly spaced around the entire perimeter of the dish and at its bottom;
   • air stagnation. Well ventilate the room where the orchid is located. However, avoid drafts. Some varieties are afraid of them;
   • ill-fitting pot. It should fit in size: neither tight nor "overgrowth". All the same, the plant must be replanted periodically. Each time you buy dishes exactly according to the volume of the root system;
   • improper watering. Some species cannot be watered from above. This is due to the structural features of the leaf. As a result, moisture accumulates at its base, provoking the process of decay;
   • poor quality substrate. Optimally it is loose, without lumps, all components are evenly distributed. Water drains well from it. After watering, the soil does not stray in a heap. He smells good. Has sufficient drainage
   • unbalanced fertilizer. It is important not only the correct ratio of components. Consider the right time for feeding, quantity, frequency. It all depends on the type of orchid, its characteristics. Here its exact name will help you.

pathogens

One or more of the above reasons can lead to the following problems:

1. fungal infection. It affects the leaves and stem of the plant. The likely cause is high humidity plus low temperature;
2. bacteria. They develop deep in the tissues of the flower. More often this happens when some part of the orchid is injured. Stagnation of moisture also causes decay;
3. viral diseases. The reason is physiological features.

Phalaenopsis diseases

Consider some of the problems that cause spots on orchid leaves.

Hives

Dark brown defects appear immediately after infection. They are rounded, up to 3 mm in diameter. Next comes the spread throughout the flower. The reason is low temperature, excessive humidity, insufficient ventilation.

Bacillus Cypriped

Dangerous, common disease of orchids. Called by the pathogenic bacterium Cypriped. The development of bacteria is facilitated by high temperature and humidity. A small, light, rapidly growing speck appears. Then the affected parts soften, darken, smell bad, wrinkle. Reason: improper watering or spraying.

Dry spots

The leaf is covered with a brown spot, which gradually spreads throughout the phalaenopsis. This fungal infection occurs due to high humidity.

late blight

A terrible disease caused by the fungus Phytophtora cactorum. Purple blemishes appear on the leaves, which then darken to black. The plant may die. Reason: excessive density of the substrate, abundant watering.

Mesophyll collapse

There are yellow spots of uneven shape. Then they seem to press the affected part. To prevent this from happening, exclude cold water for watering and spraying.

Bacterial spotting

Causes her fungus Cercospora. The outer side of the sheet is covered with yellow uneven spots of 5-10 mm. The inside is moldy. This is due to the high temperature, poor ventilation.

Phyllostictina Pyriformis

Fungal attack. Manifested by the presence of yellow or black spots. They may remain unchanged for several months. This is the period when deep inside the tissues there is a rapid process of development of the mycelium. It ends with the death of the leaf plate.

Chlorosis

Chlorine exposure causes black spots on the leaves. After twisting them, the plant dies.

Burkholderia gladioli

A bacterial disease that causes dark spots that are mistaken for frostbite.

Treatment

What if your pet is hurt? Necessary activities:

For bacterial infections, the affected areas are cut off with a sterile instrument. The cut points are disinfected with brilliant green, charcoal, fungicide.

The plant is provided with a moderately warm, not sunny place with good ventilation. For a few days they give rest, without watering.

Unfortunately, there are such problems in which the orchid dies. For example, chlorosis, late blight. Therefore, it is important to take preventive measures in time.

What do we have to do?

First of all, follow the rules of care. Carefully study the name of your pet, its type, variety, features. Of great importance is the origin of the plant, its natural climatic conditions. Try to bring home orchid content closer to natural ones. Then its lush healthy flowering will delight you for a long time.

Avoid injury, as through cuts, breaks, tissues are easily exposed to bacterial attack.

Since the first symptoms of diseases of such capricious plants are manifested precisely by spots on the leaves, you can quickly identify the cause and take adequate measures. Proper care will also make your flower resistant to pests.

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The most common Phalaenopsis orchid diseases and their treatment

Phalaenopsis orchid, first discovered on the islands of the Malay Archipelago, can now be grown at home.

In order to grow a healthy orchid, before buying one, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the correct care and find out what symptoms will show that the care needs to be changed or improved in some way.

In order not to get into trouble, you need to know about pests, which are the most frequent guests of orchids.

In contact with

• Diseases
• Pests
• Useful video

Diseases

As a rule, orchid diseases arise from improper care for them. The Phalaenopsis orchid is very demanding, but you should not overdo it with caring for it, as this can also lead to disease.

Does not bloom

Why does the Phalaenopsis orchid not bloom? There may be several reasons:

Leaves wither

The reasons why the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid wither:

Leaves dry

Why do the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid dry?

This happens due to overheating of the root system or due to improper care of the plant.

Make sure the substrate dries out after each watering.

Otherwise, the roots of the orchid will begin to rot, and the leaves will dry and wither.

If the plant is not watered often enough, then soon the root system will dry out. In the case of watering, one cannot rely on other examples, since the drying rate of the substrate depends on various factors, such as the weather or the size of the pot.

Leaves turn yellow

Why do the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid turn yellow and what to do about it?

1. The sheet is just old. The old leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid are dying - this is normal. Let the leaf dry and it will naturally separate from the orchid. A new leaf will grow to replace it.
2. When watering a plant, you focus on the upper part of the bark, which dries out much faster than the bottom. Due to waterlogged soil, the orchid does not receive enough oxygen, which is the most common reason why the Phalaenopsis orchid turns yellow.

flowers fall

Why do Phalaenopsis orchid flowers drop? Causes:

Dark spots on leaves

Try to prevent the appearance of dark spots on the leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid, for this, follow the correct care.

Proper care means: water only with warm water and only after the soil has completely dried out, spray the plant as needed, keep it in a fairly bright place at an average air temperature, fertilize only with specialized fertilizers, regularly ventilate the room and inspect the substrate for pests.

If you still find dark spots on the leaves or trunk, immediately isolate the orchid from other plants. In no case do not spray the orchid and reconsider the watering regimen. If the stain spreads further, it must be cut off, and then the cut site should be disinfected. To do this, you can use cinnamon, sulfur, activated carbon, chlorhexidine.

Removed plant parts will not regenerate. They are cut in order to stop the possible spread of the disease.

Roots dry

Why do the roots of the Phalaenopsis orchid dry? The main reasons: watering with too hard water and chemical burns with fertilizer salts.

Hard water contains impurities that burn the roots of the plant, they become covered with a brownish coating and dry out.

How to revive a phalaenopsis orchid with dried roots? Add fresh peat (one hundred grams per ten liters) or wood ash (three grams per ten liters) to the water to fix the problem. Water softeners can also be used.

With a lack of moisture, the upper roots usually suffer more, since they are outside. We advise you to properly adjust the watering and humidity in the room.

Rotten roots

What to do if the roots of the Phalaenopsis orchid have rotted? Cut off all rotten roots (they are soft to the touch, dirty yellow) and the bottom of the stem.

Sprinkle the “wound” with charcoal or treat with brilliant green, be sure to dry it for several days. After that, the plant can be returned to the substrate.

Rotting can be caused by poor quality of the substrate, in which case it must be replaced with a new one.

If almost all the roots have rotted, the phalaenopsis needs resuscitation.

Resuscitation (treatment) of Phalaenopsis orchids

How to revive a phalaenopsis orchid? Orchid leaves wither, turn yellow, look lifeless? This is an overheating signal. Your plant is probably suffering from heat.

Emergency resuscitation of a Phalaenopsis orchid without leaves:

• put the pot with the plant in the shade, away from the window, and let it rest for 3-4 hours;
• leaves can not be sprayed and watered until the orchid has cooled.

With proper care, the leaves will recover in a few days. Remember, direct sunlight is the enemy of milking orchids!

As a result of improper care, the phalaenopsis orchid may lose its entire root system.

Resuscitation of a phalaenopsis orchid without roots:

• take the orchid out of the pot;
• thoroughly rinse its roots with warm water with the addition of a fungicide;
• remove the rotten and dried.

The cut sites should be disinfected with activated charcoal powder. In the absence of a root system, plant the plant in clean moss and create greenhouse conditions for its growth. Don't water your orchid, just spray instead.

The pot should be right in size, there should be no extra space and the rays of the sun should not reach the plant.

New roots will begin to grow about a month after transplanting. The leaves of the plant may wilt, as the remaining small amount of roots will not be able to feed the entire plant.

Pests

Phalaenopsis orchid pests are usually brought from the store. Always check the plant in the store for pests. Quarantine the new plant to avoid infecting other plants.

Below are examples of Phalaenopsis orchid pests and their treatment.

Ticks

Often on orchids, namely on their inner parts of the leaf, flat mites are found. They do not spin webs and are very difficult to spot due to their small size, around 0.25 mm.

Red or yellow plaque in most cases there are eggs of mites.

Swipe a wet cloth over it, and if the plaque remains on it, your orchid is really a pest.

Mealybug

The mealybug is a sucking insect 3-6 mm in size. They suck the leaves and shoots, delaying the growth of the plant, contribute to the yellowing and wilting of the leaves.

Insects are mobile and actively move. Their body is covered with a powdery, waxy coating of white.

In simple terms, the mealybug is a snow-white lump.

Web

Noticed the thin web on the orchid? Look for red or green spider mites in it. The sooner it is discovered, the better, as they multiply very quickly.

In the fight against spider mites, both folk methods and modern chemicals are used.

Ticks quickly develop immunity to chemicals, so they should be attacked in all possible ways.

Start by washing the leaves, which may have mite eggs on them, with soapy water, but avoid getting it on the roots of the plant.

Useful video

Video about diseases and treatment of phalaenopsis orchids:

Remember that phalaenopsis care begins with its selection. Healthy leaves should be dense, bright green in color, aerial roots should be elastic and firm to the touch.

Buy an orchid blooming at the time of purchase, so that later you will not be disappointed with the color and shape. Ask to pack the plants in front of you, this is a must, because stress in the form of a sharp change in temperature will negatively affect the plant. Growing a beautiful, healthy and regularly blooming orchid is quite difficult, but possible!

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An orchid is a proud and rather whimsical flower; it is not for everyone to breed. Growing an orchid is a laborious process, you are worried about any change. For example, seemingly so simple - white spots on orchid leaves appear for several reasons.

The first reason is the external influence on the flower. Flower growers, and often amateurs can make such a mistake, pour a flower - an orchid does not like plentiful baths. Watering the flower is required with great care, you can not leave the leaves lowered into a basin of water. In this case, depressed white spots appear. Unfortunately, the leaves can no longer be given their original shape, the changes will remain on the sheet. There are white spots with a black border - they appear under the influence of the sun or banal drying. And with such damage, the leaf can be removed immediately, it will not turn green again. From the bright sun, the orchid should be darkened.

A more dangerous disease for an orchid can be caused by infection with a fungus. White spots appear, which at first are very similar to a burn and therefore the treatment is usually delayed. Unlike burn injuries, with a fungal disease, the spots grow and cover an increasing area. Over time, the spots can become brownish or even black, and spores appear on them. The first step is to remove the flower away from other plants. Remove the damaged part of the sheet, necessarily treating the cut with an antiseptic. The disease may recede, but this is a temporary event. After a few days, the fungus returns and the plant becomes sick with more force. You need to fight the fungus with special means, you can buy them at your nearest flower shop. The main thing is not to start the disease, because the orchid can lose all the leaves.

Orchid roots rot

The easiest to care for and relatively non-capricious orchid is phalaenopsis. The healthy roots of this orchid, about 5 millimeters thick, have a sheath that can store water. Moistened roots become green with light strokes, dried ones acquire a silvery tint. If the orchid's roots rot, they turn brown, and when pressed, moisture oozes out of them.

Such a nuisance with an orchid can happen for various reasons: fungal infection, violation of light and temperature regimes. The most common mistake in caring for orchids, which leads to rotting of the plant's roots, is improper watering.

The immutable rule of watering orchids says that it is necessary to water only when the substrate is completely dry, that is, about once a week or less. Stagnation of water, overflow is deadly for a delicate orchid. Stagnation of water in the pan for more than half an hour threatens the plant with a lack of air and overheating or hypothermia of the roots. This is even more dangerous than overdrying the substrate.

There are several ways to water orchids. It is necessary to study them so as not to harm your exotic pet !!!.
In the event of root rot, immediate action must be taken to help the plant. The rotten part of the roots is removed to living tissue, the sections are treated with colloidal sulfur, crushed charcoal.

If you had to remove all the roots, then the socket should be powdered with Potassium Humate, Kornevin, Root and planted in a new substrate. Once a month it is useful for the plant to add 2-3 drops of Zircon to the water for irrigation. This will speed up rooting. You can create conditions for a mini-greenhouse using a plastic bag with mandatory daily airing for 20 minutes.

What to do if the orchid dries or withered?

What to do if the orchid dries? First of all, it is necessary to decide what phenomenon we call the term "orchid dries". We will not try, in our short article, to cover all the possible reasons for the “drying” of an orchid, we will focus on a few, most often found among novice orchid lovers.

1. Flowers wither and dry, while the peduncle remains green.

3. The bottom leaf of the orchid turns yellow and dries out.

4. Wither, turn yellow and dry all the leaves of the orchid and wrinkle, darken the roots.

Now let's look at each item separately.

1. If the flowers wither and dry.

This may be the natural withering of the oldest flowers, but the rest have a normal appearance and the peduncle remains green.

Flowers can wither and dry out at high temperatures (over 25°C) and low air humidity (less than 60% relative humidity) for a long time (more than 6 hours).

Orchid flowers will wither and dry out with a constant dry draft, late watering, then the orchid evaporates moisture faster than it receives from the roots.

What to do? - Eliminate constant drafts, ventilate periodically, for 10-15 minutes two to three times a day. Create suitable humidity and watering for the orchid.

This is what healthy, moist Phalaenopsis orchid roots look like.

2. The flowers withered and fell off, the peduncle turns yellow and dries.

Flowering has stopped, this may be the natural process of flowering completion, or it may be the cessation of flowering due to adverse conditions, such as a long dry period or chronic overflow, a long period of insufficient light. Regardless of the reasons, flowering has stopped and will resume after a while, which depends on the method of growing the orchid - intensive or classic, and on the type of orchid. Phalaenopsis can bloom in the second month after the end of the previous flowering.

What to do? - Do not leave the orchid unattended for a long time, eliminate adverse conditions as soon as you find them.

3. Yellowing and drying of the bottom sheet or two of an orchid is a natural process, sometimes this happens due to care errors. The most common mistake is waterlogging the substrate, while the roots remain wet for a long time, suffocate and rot. The leaves don't get enough moisture, but keep losing it through transpiration, in order to survive, the plant sheds old leaves, reducing the area of ​​transpiration.

What to do? At this stage, the orchid can be saved by taking resuscitation measures.

4. Wither, turn yellow and dry all the leaves of the orchid and wrinkle, darken the roots if the orchid is maliciously flooded for a long time, the roots completely die, the rot from the roots makes its way to the stem and then it will be very difficult to save the orchid. But, nevertheless, it is worth carrying out resuscitation procedures, and suddenly it will be possible to save the plant.

All the leaves can still dry out in deciduous orchids by the dormant period, this is a natural process, the roots do not change.

If the leaves of an orchid turn yellow, what should I do?

No one will like it if the leaves of an orchid turn yellow. Of course, you understand with your mind that the old leaves should turn yellow and dry, but a feeling of slight annoyance appears: “Eh! A leaf less! But if the leaves turn yellow one after another, or for some unknown reason it turns yellow, it seems, not an old leaf - this is seriously disturbing. What to do?

First of all, you need to carefully examine the orchid and the place where it stands. If the orchid leaves turn yellow on one side, this may be caused by excessive heating from the direct rays of the sun.

What to do? If the direct rays of the sun hit the leaves of the orchid, shade it, or rearrange it to another place.

Another reason for yellow leaves may be regular overdrying of the substrate. At the same time, the leaves become lethargic, wrinkled and eventually turn yellow and dry out from lack of moisture.

What to do? Water more often, do not keep the substrate dry, especially in summer.

Paradoxically, the same symptom (yellowing of leaves) can be caused by a completely opposite cause - chronic waterlogging of the substrate. Constantly wet roots suffocate and die, the orchid does not receive moisture due to rotten roots, and the leaves wither and turn yellow.

What to do? Depending on the degree of damage to the roots, either increase the interval between waterings (if there are living roots), or immediate resuscitation of the orchid (if no living roots were found during the examination).

And it happens that water gets into the bosom of the leaf and stagnates, for example, with abundant spraying or inaccurate watering. Rot or fungus starts in it and the base of the leaf is damaged, food is not supplied and it turns yellow.

What to do? If the leaf has already turned yellow, remove it and carefully inspect the stem and other leaves, depending on the disease, start treatment.

Now you know what to do if the orchid leaves turn yellow, and remember that the problem is easier and cheaper to prevent than to solve.

How to revive an orchid

Many flower growers who have bought an orchid flower are faced with the fact that over time the plant stops blooming. It can be in a state of sleep for quite a long time, so the question arises: how to revive an orchid?

You can wake up an orchid in many ways, but all of them, without exception, are based on creating a stressful situation for the flower. In a state of stress, the flower begins to prepare for the worst and, having gathered all its strength, throws out the peduncle.

You can create a stressful environment for a flower by lowering the temperature and reducing the number of waterings. For abundant flowering of an orchid, it is necessary to create conditions so that the night temperature is at least 5-7 degrees lower than the daytime temperature.

You can also wake up an orchid by hot watering. You need to water the flower with water, the temperature of which is 36-38 degrees. Water in a thin stream must first be poured onto the roots from above, and then into the pan with water. Fertilizer can be added to the watering container with water and left for 20 minutes to dissolve before watering.

You can also wake up the sleeping beauty by transplanting and changing the soil, to the soil specially created for orchids. The plant should be transplanted into larger flowerpots. In most cases, after transplantation, the orchid begins to bloom.

How to keep an orchid alive.

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The golden rule of an orchid lover is that it is better not to top up an orchid than to overfill it!

If, after watering the orchid, the substrate does not completely dry out in 3 to 5 days, then it is too moisture-intensive for your conditions, or the pot has poor drainage. In this case, the death of the roots is possible.

For watering orchids, you need to use water with a minimum amount of salt. If the water is hard, you need to boil it, and then defend and slightly acidify. It is best to water orchids with warm water, 2 to 3 degrees warmer than air. And when spraying, it should be even warmer than air, by 5-10 degrees. You need to spray orchids with distilled water - in this case there will be fewer spots.

Preserved odontoglossum.

With an intensive method of growing orchids, it is necessary to provide intensive additional illumination with artificial light sources in October - February.

When the orchid is in a period of active growth, their need for light is greatest. High illumination is also necessary during the formation of flower buds and the development of peduncles. During flowering, the illumination does not need to be specially increased.

Callus on the lip of an orchid is a variety of outgrowths - tubercles, scallops, rollers.

Does an orchid need to be repotted after purchase?

Almost all novice orchid lovers are concerned about the question: Does an orchid need to be transplanted after purchase?
If the orchid came to you from the store, and it doesn’t matter if you bought it yourself or received it as a gift, then most likely it does not need an urgent transplant.

In fact, it is possible to give an accurate and unambiguous answer to this question only by seeing the orchid itself.

It happens that before the orchid came to you, it was not well looked after, or simply not looked after, and it does not look good.

What signs may indicate the need to transplant an orchid after purchase. Here the Florist will list the most common cases in his practice. You may have found other reasons why you have to transplant an orchid immediately after purchase. If you share your experience in the comments, other readers will be grateful to you.

So, in what cases does an orchid need to be transplanted after purchase?

An orchid in a pot does not stand on its own. Yes, yes, it also happens, the leaves or pseudobulbs have developed unilaterally and the center of gravity goes beyond the pot and the orchid turns over. Or the peduncle with the support deviated strongly from the vertical, which also unbalances the orchid. In this case, a radical way to solve the problem is a transplant. Although, you can put the orchid in a heavy glass pot. And you can align the peduncle with the support by removing and reinstalling the support in a vertical position.
There is little substrate in the pot and the orchid "dangles" in it. In this case, the support for the peduncle will also tilt and overwhelm the plant with the pot. In this case, there are options. You can add the substrate and gently compact it in the same pot or immediately transplant it into another, possibly larger pot.
The orchid has some root problems. For example, in a Phalaenopsis orchid, thanks to a transparent pot, you can see spoiled roots. If there are a lot of problematic roots, about half of all visible ones, the orchid will have to be transplanted. It is necessary to remove all damaged roots and plant the orchid in a new substrate. You may have to sacrifice flowers, for that save the plant. There have been cases when such an orchid is not transplanted, but according to the statistics of the Flowerman, the probability of survival is about 50: 50. A lot depends on your skill in caring for orchids.
You absolutely want to see your orchid in a different pot. There are no options here.

Flowering orchid transplant

More recently, the orchid was considered a very rare and inaccessible flower. Those who want to have this flower at home should know that a careful transplant of a blooming orchid will not spoil it at all. It is worth following simple rules.

If the orchid blooms, then you can transplant it. This must be done correctly in order to preserve blossoming flowers and preparing buds. If during transplantation, you find significant problems with the roots, then you need to cut the flowers from the plant yourself. You should not feel sorry for them, if they are not removed, they will take away the strength of the orchid. If the roots are in order, then take the next step.

Prepare a transparent plastic pot in advance, you can take the previous one. The new substrate for transplantation should consist of treated bark and sphagnum. Carefully remove the plant from the pot, if the roots hold tight, it is better to cut the pot. The main thing is not to break the fragile roots. We remove the old substrate, the roots that have grown together do not need to be injured. To free the roots from the remnants of moss, you can rinse them in warm water, then dry them on a newspaper. When the roots are dry, inspect. All rotten roots must be cut with a sharp disinfected knife to living tissue and cauterized with brilliant green. All dry roots cannot be removed, cut off only those that look like parchment.
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If the orchid has faded, do not worry. Of course, it is nice to see flowers blooming, but their wilting is sad. But, the loss of flowers does not always mean the end of flowering, this applies to the Phalaenopsis orchid (phalaenopsis). Therefore, first of all, decide in the orchid catalog what your orchid is called and find out the features of its dormant period. Usually, watering is reduced, that is, it is not watered abundantly and the next watering is done when the substrate becomes dry. This period can last from a couple of weeks to several months, depending on the type of orchid. A sign of the end of the dormant period may be the appearance of new shoots in sympoidal orchids, and the growth of new leaves in monopoidal ones. At the end of the dormant period, return to regular watering.

And if the phalaenopsis orchid has faded? So, in a phalaenopsis orchid, flowers can suddenly fall off. So the orchid can respond to sudden changes in the conditions of detention:
- drying of the soil, while the roots in the pot become light silvery, and the leaves become lethargic;
- staying for several hours in a dry, hot atmosphere or in a strong draft, while the flower petals lose moisture faster than it enters the flower, and the roots in the pot look normal, wet;
- a sharp drop in temperature for twelve or more hours below 16 C in combination with dry air or a draft, while the movement of juices in the plant slows down, and the evaporation of moisture from the surfaces increases;
- sharp and strong odors, for example, oranges are peeled in a room with a phalaenopsis orchid and the peel is left here for a long time or a Christmas tree is brought in before the new year, while a large concentration of essential oils arises;
- a high concentration of ethylene gas released by ripe fruits, for example, they closed the windows and doors in the room, leaving the orchid and the fruit bowl there overnight.

If such factors are short enough, and the phalaenopsis orchid itself was not affected, flowering may continue with the normalization of conditions. At the end of the orchid peduncle and its side branches there is a so-called “growth point”, if it is green and not damaged, flowering will continue. It happens that the "growth point" is damaged, or the peduncle after the flowers fall off has an unaesthetic appearance, then it (the peduncle) can be cut 1 - 1.5 cm above the sleeping bud. Sleeping buds are on the peduncle and are protected by scales.

If the orchid peduncle changed its color from green to another, yellow-brown or pink-purple and began to dry out, then flowering has stopped. In this case, the peduncle must be removed by cutting it as low as possible.