What wood is the bed made from? DIY bed: interesting and simple models made from environmentally friendly materials (135 photos). Making a bed with your own hands from wood

In furniture stores, the range of furniture presented is huge. However, its cost is quite high, a bed made of high-quality wood is especially expensive. In some cases, it is not at all necessary to spend large sums on furniture sets; a hand-made wooden bed will be an excellent solution to this problem.

Types of beds

Models of beds are different, many of them are not similar to each other. They differ not only in material and size, but also in their purpose. Wooden beds are the most in demand, as wood is a natural, environmentally friendly material. For the manufacture of this type of furniture, such as walnut, cherry, beech, maple, pine, birch or oak are used. You can make almost any wooden model yourself, let it be a children's wooden bed, made with your own hands, a loft bed, a transformer, a bunk design, and so on.

Beds are single, double, one and a half. A single bed has a width of no more than one meter, a one and a half - from 110-160 cm, a double - from 180 to 220 cm.

Dimensions

It is important to understand that the classic version is always taken as the basis for any bed construction. The first step when creating wooden beds with your own hands is the process of determining the dimensions of the future structure for sleeping. The easiest way is to build a bed for a certain mattress size, and not vice versa. Basically, all store products have standard sizes. Let's consider the stages of self-made bed on the most common version of the mattress size - 200x155 cm.

Required material

First, let's decide what the bed consists of. In its design there is a frame and a frame on which the mattress is placed. The first consists of backs and side panels. Before you make a wooden bed with your own hands, you need to stock up on the materials you need to work. The main thing is to use only dry material:

1. Boards 250x30 cm 2.5 cm thick in the amount of 2 pcs. for the manufacture of side walls of the bed.

2. Boards 200x30 cm (3 pieces) for the manufacture of the back and front walls, headboards.

3. 200 cm in size 4x4 cm in the amount of 5 pieces - for bearing legs and supports.

4. Reiki 150 cm long, 2.5 cm thick are used for fastening headboard boards, for slatted covering - 27 pcs. Sometimes thick plywood can be used instead of a rail.

5. Wood screws.

6. Stain.

7. Polyurethane-based varnish, carpentry glue.

Instruments

Making a bed on your own is not a particularly complicated process, but rather laborious and time consuming. Any person who has at least some idea of ​​\u200b\u200bworking with a tree will cope with this task. It is clear that making a wooden bed with your own hands requires the use of some tools. Here they are:

Hacksaw;

Screwdriver;

Plane;

Electric jigsaw;

Sandpaper;

Measuring instruments or fixtures;

Pencil.

Preparatory stage

When starting any business, it is important to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat should turn out. This also applies to the case when a wooden bed is made with your own hands. Drawings and sketches must be prepared in advance. All sizes will be listed there. Having a well-drawn drawing, you can easily and quickly calculate the required amount of material.

As mentioned above, the bed will be designed based on the size of the mattress. It should be in the bed as in a cell, that is, the internal dimensions of the frame should be equal to the dimensions of the mattress.

Having prepared all the necessary tools and materials, you need to mark up the materials for their further sawing. Lines for sawing should be applied with a pencil or cutter along the ruler. To make it easier when creating two or three identical parts, you can cut out only one and then use it as a template. All surfaces after sawing are carefully processed with sandpaper.

Frame manufacturing

The direct manufacturing process includes the measurement of the mattress. In accordance with the dimensions taken, you need to cut off a pair of end and a pair of long (for the sidewalls of the bed) boards. The prepared parts are assembled into rectangles and fastened with eyelets or wooden spikes. The connection must be of the W-type. Holes can be gouged with a chisel, some cut them with a jigsaw. The width of the groove should be at least 20-30 mm, and the depth - 50 mm. Spikes or eyes must be lubricated with wood glue, then connected and aligned at an angle of 90 degrees. Then the elements should be fixed with a special device until completely dry.

When wooden bunk beds are made with their own hands, the same bed is taken as the basis. Assembly and manufacturing was described in this article above.

A wooden bed with such a frame is a reliable and high-quality product, this is an example of a traditional carpentry connection, as experienced carpenters call it. When wooden beds are made with their own hands, holes are made in the end sides of the mating surfaces of the boards, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the spike. Spikes and holes are lubricated with glue and assembled.

The easiest way to connect the parts of the frame of a wooden bed is self-tapping with additional fastening with a metal corner.

Lamellar frame assembly

A slatted frame, trellis or mesh is a structure to support a mattress. Due to its presence, the mattress will not fall to the floor, deform or squeeze inward. In the process of manufacturing bedroom furniture, including when a do-it-yourself double wooden bed is being constructed, you will need a rail. It needs to be stuffed on the inside of the frame on the end and side boards. Next, you need to make markings in height - at least 10 cm from the top edge. The rail is attached with a dotted or solid line around the perimeter. In this case, the frame is also suitable and must have at least one partition that will support the mattress, even if it has its own rigid frame. And if a frameless design is used, then the bottom of the bed should be solid. Before you make a wooden bed with your own hands, you need to make a frame for lamellas from a bar. It is fixed according to the internal size of the bed structure. A rail is stuffed onto the frame across the length of the bed in increments of 5-7 cm.

Headboard and legs of the bed

In order to make a headboard, you need to cut a board of the desired size and configuration. The ends are treated with sandpaper and screwed into the contact points with screws, having previously lubricated them with carpentry glue. You can order a backrest for the headboard and footboard in the carpentry workshop with an individual carved decor. Further, do-it-yourself wooden beds are installed on reliable and durable legs. Their height depends on the individual preferences of the master, on the interior design of the room, as well as on the possibility of using the free space under the bed, etc.

For the manufacture of legs, bars are used, they can be either square or round. The legs are mounted in the corners of bedroom furniture. They can be installed inside or outside, and also inserted into. In the latter version, a more secure stud fastening must be used for assembly. It is necessary to ensure that the upper edge of the legs does not protrude above the partitions.

The final stage

The finish coating, which will be used to decorate wooden beds, made by hand, should be in perfect harmony with the environment and fit into the interior.

At the beginning of work, it is necessary to carefully sand the entire frame of the bed, then soak the entire surface with drying oil and cover with paint. To give bedroom furniture the desired shade or color, its frame is trimmed with a special stain. She will give the necessary shade. Then, after it dries, it will be possible to varnish the bed with a brush or roller. Lacquer is recommended to be applied in several layers. It is desirable to polish the dried surface with felt. Some use felt.

When work on the manufacture of the bed is carried out according to a previously prepared drawing or diagram, then there are no special problems with the assembly or operation of the product. A handmade wooden bed will delight its owner for more than one year.

The bed for adults determines the look of the interior of the bedroom. And if it is in full view of everyone in a studio or budget apartment, then together with a wardrobe and a table it forms a triumvirate, from which the whole design of the home dances. This circumstance affects the production and trade markups: for family double beds, they are not so ugly, but they could be cheaper. Hence the understandable interest of home craftsmen in home-made beds: after all, it’s not a TV and it’s not a car. And not even a wardrobe or a chandelier.

Craftsmen make beds of various types and designs. Examples in fig. cover only the core of amateur bed building, which still has many bends, side jets and swirls. We will stay more in the main jet.

Making a bed with your own hands is both simple and difficult at the same time. Simply because technologically there is nothing complicated in it; a very good bed can be made with your own hands outside the carpentry workshop at home, right in the apartment. It is difficult because the bed is one of the most loaded pieces of furniture and almost the only one that is designed for regular (or irregular, it’s like that) significant alternating loads. The ratios of their magnitudes to the bearing capacity of parts of acceptable dimensions are close to those in industrial equipment or military equipment, but it is not good to design an everyday thing like a machine bed or a gun carriage. To fit given requirements into the minimum of available material, labor and money, you need to make full use of the mechanics of wooden structures and related disciplines. This article is meant to give you a basic understanding of the bed, its main parts and how they work in the structure. Illustrative materials can be used both directly and as a basis for your own developments.

From the anecdotal history of beds

The famous Soviet submarine captain Alexander Marinesko once had an affair with a very temperamental Swede from ... mmm ... a public house in the city where the flotilla was based. The glory of the hero, who in the kriegsmarine from the young to the grand admirals was seriously considered the sea devil himself with a team of werewolves, the lady was not particularly impressed. But an enthusiastic adoration for Captain Marinesco flared up in her when, during the next rendezvous, the bed collapsed under them.

The fact is that the craft of that person was hereditary. So to speak, a tribal tradition along the female line. She inherited the bed from her grandmother. Here is a bed worthy of such a pair, we will try to build.

Entry level bed

Beds of a simplified design, in which the backs are included in the power circuit, and the legs are made integral with them, only economy class is made for adults. And then, the legs are separated from the backs and placed on the side close to them, so that an angle is formed that gives the product at least minimal rigidity. But all the same, somewhere you have to put additional props resting directly on the floor, which is not optimal, see below. Drawings of a bed of this type, designed for moderately intensive use for 10-12 years, are shown in fig. The front back/wall differs from the back only in the absence of a decorative extension. The material of the backs of the laminated chipboard, the lounger is plywood; the rest is wood. Assembly on self-tapping screws for wood and steel corners. And we will go further, to beds that can withstand a grandmother with many lovers and her offspring.

Material

A do-it-yourself bed is best made of wood; it will cost less than laminated chipboard with the same complexity of work, but the bed will last for decades. The furniture array will be more expensive than laminated chipboard, but you can get by with timber without defects if you take it from a closed heated warehouse. Lumber stored under a canopy or in the open air is suitable for furniture only after a long drying at home, and a lot of waste is generated due to warping. You can still carve out a crib, bedside table, chest of drawers or a coffee table from such a forest, but it definitely won’t go to an adult bed with its heavily loaded parts.

A bed for several years, until money is collected for high-quality furniture, can be made from simple sanded chipboard, not laminated. It will cost along with painting / varnishing or tight-fitting self-adhesive under a tree no more expensive than wood. Problems of shrinkage and warping, of course, disappear, but the service life of the bed will not exceed 20 years due to natural deterioration of the binder. Chipboard bed designs have a number of features, discussed below.

What if it's an array?

Solid wood furniture is expensive, but just like chipboard, it is guaranteed against warping and shrinkage. And on his bed will go much less than on the closet. If you can afford such a prestigious pleasure, then for the sample in fig. a product of German masters: an original double bed made of structural solid wood. Timber and other lumber are not used. The original version with a headboard-blinds is designed to be installed in the middle of the room. Such a headboard near the wall will gather dust, but you can not do it, or do something else, see below. The array frame alone will take a little more than 2 square meters. m; in terms of money for pine, it will come out about 10 thousand rubles. The cheapest ready-made solid bed costs at least three times as much.

About connections

A wooden bed will be most durable if assembled on carpentry joints. The most commonly used are tongue-and-groove, closed and open, and a half-tree or a quarter tie-in. Dowels and dowels are used less frequently due to their lower strength. All wood-to-wood joints must be glued.

Joiner's connections gain design strength for some time, up to 2 weeks, they require sufficiently high production skills, special tools and a separate workshop, because. give a lot of sawdust and shavings. Therefore, a home-made bed is assembled on metal connectors. The fasteners will have to be tightened as the tree dries out, but the bed “on steel” will take on the full load immediately upon manufacture.

In beds "for a while" and, in some cases, durable (see below), it is advisable to use universal thin-walled steel perforated plates. From them you can bend corners, pockets, or both together, pos. 1 in fig. In this case, it is better to take the corners with a stamped stiffener, pos. 2.

The bed "on steel for a long time" is better to assemble on bolts and nuts; bolt heads in the front surfaces are sealed in the same way as confirmations: with decorative plugs or PVA putty or liquid nails on sawdust. But locking the nuts in pairs is a steel washer - a spring washer, as in pos. 2, on the tree fades into the past. It is better to take shaped nuts with a corrugated bottom surface (press nuts) complete with Teflon washers. Elastic durable Teflon is eternal, it will keep the nut from unscrewing no worse than a grower or a petal washer, and most likely you won’t have to tighten the connection at all.

Note: the use of metal in the main structure of the bed is limited. Why and when it is needed, see below.

About nails

Now it’s not customary to talk about nail joints. Like, antiquated old-fashioned, but a screwdriver with confirmations is cool. But it's too early to discount nails. In addition to the cheapness of fasteners, nails do not require preparatory operations (drilling), special tools, wear-out replaceable working bodies for it and do not produce waste. As for the noise, an experienced carpenter “bales” 100 mm nails with a 200-gram hammer so that you can hear it in the next room only if you listen.

There are corrugated nails on sale, see fig., Holding the tree no worse than confirmations and also self-tightening as the wood dries out. In nodes where the operating load does not tend to pull out the nail, the connections on them are quite reliable, and if the load falls along the nail from the cap to the tip, they are absolutely reliable. There are enough such knots in the bed, at least fastening the spacers to the sides, see below.

Bed arrangement

The bed frame in an adult way is a rectangular frame made of boards placed on the edge - a tsarg. The frame can be equipped with additional stiffeners; it is placed on legs and the front (foot) and back (head) backs are attached to it. A bed (bed, lodgement) is placed in the frame, on which a mattress is placed. So that the pile from it falls less on the floor, and the dust from the floor falls into the mattress, the bed is often covered or covered with a mattress pad made of tarpaulin, canvas, etc. technical fabrics. Also, a mattress topper is sometimes called a solid slab bed.

Note: in mattresses on a rigid basis (spring and rather expensive orthopedic ones), the bed and mattress pad are part of the mattress. But a lodgement in a bed under them is still needed for the reasons described below.

Tsargi

Tsars are made of board or chipboard. Plywood is not suitable, because. plywood is very flexible and prone to delamination over long lengths under dynamic loads. The thickness of the tsarg is from 30 mm; width for a bed up to 2.2x1.6 m from 170, but better from 200 mm.

In high-quality beds, the sides are connected with dowels or, if an open connection is acceptable for aesthetics, a half-wood tie-in, a through spike with a wedging, or a dovetail. Keyed connections are not applicable in this case, because do not exclude the displacement of the tsarg along the key, and in this direction the greatest loads fall on the connection. For laying the bed from the inside, support bars are attached to the tsargs. They crash at the corners into each other half a tree, on the left in fig.

In simpler and cheaper beds, the drawers are assembled into a frame on metal fasteners (corners + hardware), and the support bars at the corners do not converge, on the right in Fig. Under the bed on the lamellas (see below), spacers can be attached to them, but not necessarily, separating the nests of the lamellas. They may or may not be on the sides of beds of any class, depending on the design of the slats and the bed as a whole.

Note: if the support bar under the lamellas is placed on the side assembly, the spacers are nailed to it in advance. If the spacers are placed on the side of the assembly, then they need to be nailed to the board.

About prefabricated sidewalls

The bed in the bedroom on the sides with textile inserts is much more hygienic, because. dynamic loads effectively ventilate the under-bed space. One of the designs of the prefabricated sidewall is shown in Fig. on right. The side tsargi cut into the drill with a hidden (deaf) spike. The fabric insert can be solid, depending on the aesthetics, then the spacer is not needed. It is also not necessary to fasten the fabric with dowels in the grooves, as in industrial production; it can be fixed with slats nailed from the inside. Then the loops under the nails in the fabric are cut in advance, the slats are nailed, if only the material is grabbed, the fabric is pulled and the slats are nailed tightly. The fabric must be decaged, i.e. 2-3 times soaked and dried.

Bed

If there are partitions in the bed frame, say, for drawer niches that can work as stiffeners, and the mattress is on a rigid frame, then sometimes the bed is not made at all, pos. 1 in fig. below. In this case, a sheet of plywood 8-16 mm with ventilation holes is laid under a soft mattress, pos. 2. But this is far from the best option, and not only due to the high consumption of material and the amount of waste.

The bed bed does not just hold the mattress, while at the same time providing ventilation for it and the space under the bed. It must have a certain elasticity in order to take on those very dynamic loads, and to transfer to the frame only what it can withstand from grandmother to granddaughter without creaking. Therefore, the bed of a "real adult" bed is recruited from freely laid boards - lamellas. A plywood mattress pad under a very soft mattress is laid on them, and without slats it will turn out to be something like a pressing punch for a bed.

slats

The slats can be laid across or along the bed. In terms of mechanics, transverse ones are better, they are softer and more evenly dampen dynamic loads. They also provide the sweetest sleep and everything else on the bed, because. play up and down according to the movements of the body. If the width of the bed is more than 1.1 m, the slats are most often made double, stacked in 2 rows. Then, in the middle of the frame along its length, a lamella support beam is installed - a spar, pos. 3. In factory models, the spar is made of a steel corrugated pipe with sockets and / or a support platform for the lamellas.

Note: don't be surprised by aviation terminology; further there will also be stringers with ribs. The designers of the first airplanes adopted a lot, among others, from furniture makers, incl. and terms.

The wooden axial support of the slats requires additional reinforcement from below, because it accounts for the maximum (antinode, in technical terms) of dynamic loads. For the reasons given below, props of any kind should be avoided. How to be a do-it-yourselfer here, we'll see a little later.

The lamellas can be flat or curved upwards. The latter are bent in advance, it is impossible to put flat boards instead of lamellas: they will quickly loosen the bed, even if they only sleep on it. The bent slats of expensive beds are equipped with plastic tips that provide the required gap between the slats (see below) without spacers on the support bars and effective damping of alternating forces.

Bent slats are designed for fairly expensive mattresses; as a rule, complete or recommended for the bed. Lying on this one feels like a boyar on a swan featherbed, but the mattress is of the middle and lower price segment, incl. orthopedic, on bent lamellas sometimes gets off, and the neighbors in the bed in a dream roll down to the edge or pile on top of each other.

It is better for a home master to get by with flat lamellas. Firstly, any mattress will fall on them; those under the royal-boyar down jackets are also designed for a flat bed. Secondly, the lamellas can then be made whole, and the spar can be replaced with 2 stringers, pos. 4. The antinode of the dynamics will fall on the free space, and a bar from 75x50, placed on the edge, will go to the stringers. True, l’amour le trois on such a bed will turn out not so hot, how pleasant, but we will expect that readers do not suffer from a tendency to deviations in the intimate sphere.

Finally, the bed bed with drawers also needs to be spring-loaded for sleeping comfort and product durability. A spar cut into the partition walls of the boxes will not only limit their capacity, but can have an unpleasant side effect, see below. In this case - there is nothing to do - you will have to lay longitudinal lamellas, pos. 5.

How not to with lamellas

First, it is not necessary to nail the lamellas to the frame and / or “reinforce” them with stringers in the presence of a spar, pos. 6. The power circuit of the bed is designed so that the lamellas take on the dynamics of loads, and the frame takes on statics. With tightly fixed lamellas, they will exchange one and the other, which for a lying person will be expressed unambiguously - in a bad dream. As for the stringers, they simply won’t feel anything in this scheme and will only wonder why they were installed? For the sake of extra labor and material costs? If we already make a bed on stringers, then without a spar, see above.

The second mistake is too frequent and / or wide lamellas with small gaps, pos. 7. Ventilation worsens and too rigid spring bed turns into the same punch. The norm for installing lamellas is 6.5 + 0.5 pcs. per meter of bed size perpendicular to their long axes. Material - board (100-120) x (20-25) or plywood (100-120) x (10-12).

And a completely unforgivable mistake - a deaf hard bed, pos. 8. There can be only one justification for the presence of such beds in production and sale: they look “cool” on the trading floor without a mattress. And for the home master, another minus is added: why put expensive decorative material where it will not be visible?

Lamels and racks

There are beds with a flaw in the design, sometimes necessary for budget models, but still annoying: the presence of support posts that transfer loads directly to the floor, see fig. on right. Recall that in the right bed only the frame through the legs should interact with the floor. And in this product are not required, but possible, 2 fatal defects:

• The floor is very hard, e.g. laminate on a substrate without lag on the self-leveling screed. Depending on the location of the bed in the room (it is impossible to read or accurately simulate on a home computer), even the involuntary movements of the sleeper through the racks will be given back, and the effect of the princess and the pea will appear in the dream.
• Paul on the lags. Due to the different mechanical characteristics of the flooring and the bed frame, it, being absolutely sound and not loosened at all, will turn out to be creaky. Especially at the most inappropriate moments for the perception of such sounds.

Legs, floor and frame

The legs of the bed, like the slats, work in two ways. Even threefold, given the possibility of its movement. But in a bed that stands in its place indestructibly, they do more than just hold the frame. It is in the legs that the remnants of the bed dynamics and its return from the floor are extinguished. The interaction of loads opposite in the direction of propagation contributes to resonance; this is one of the possible reasons why the bed creaks and creaks no matter how you sort it out and pull it up.

To avoid resonance, the legs of the bed must, in addition to overall strength, have a low mechanical quality factor. Therefore, legs made of boards or L-shaped chipboard are bad, they ring well. In addition, they are known to break easily when dragging the bed. So her legs must be made of timber; preferably coniferous. A section from 50x50 will be enough for both strength and vibration damping. Thicker, of course, will not hurt, especially if the tree of the legs is dense deciduous, then it is advisable to take from 100x100.

The thickening of the timber legs also gives constructive advantages: in an expensive bed, or home-made for a long time, the frame sides cut into the legs without any problems in any way, as on the left in Fig. This will not only strengthen the bed, but also reduce the likelihood of squeaking to nothing, and will also make it possible to make a solid headboard, incl. oblique, see below. And in a simple bed “on steel”, the same legs provide high strength of the frame corners; therefore - the entire bed, in the center in fig.

Finally, the side tsargs unloaded with powerful legs will make it possible to make a bed such that the Swedish grandmother never dreamed of. Namely: to strengthen the frame with transverse stiffeners - ribs, on the right in the figure, from boards placed on the edge of half the width and thickness compared to the tsargs. They put ribs under the bed, they do not replace it! They are attached to the tsargs either by cutting through a spike (not half a tree or into a worm!), Or using metal pockets. This is one of the cases when the metal in the bed is better than woodwork, see below for another.

Bed and podium

A bed with a podium has been friends for a long time: for respect in a luxury bedroom, pos. 1 in Fig., for space zoning in a studio apartment, pos. 2, or, conversely, in a cramped odnushka, pos. 3. However, not a bed with a podium, but the actual bed-podium as one product, exists mainly in three forms. The first is a bed retractable from the podium in the same odnushka, pos. 4, or children's, pos. 5, which allows you to save a usable area equal to that of a bed. If the ratio of the length of the room to its width is not more than 4/3, then the corner bed-podium, pos. 6, has little effect on the ergonomics of the room, you just need to think carefully about the layout.

In an ordinary dwelling, a bed structurally combined with a podium, pos. 7 is used mainly for hygienic purposes: both the floor under it and the mattress from the floor almost do not gather dust. But such a solution is used quite rarely, because. the podium resonates easily. Much more often, a podium bed is placed in a niche, which in itself dampens sounds well, and is equipped with drawers, pos. 8, which allows you to turn an uncomfortable nook into a cozy alcove and save space for a linen closet.

Podium

The podium for the boxes is assembled on the corners with box-shaped hardware from a bar from 40x40, on the left in fig. The maximum size of the horizontal mesh is 400x600 mm. It makes no sense to increase the thickness of the timber over 50x50, because. the maximum allowable mesh size at the same time grows much more slowly than the cross section of the tree, which increases the consumption of material without adding much strength to the podium.

You can’t make a podium for a pull-out bed box-shaped, except that the bed is floating, complex and not very reliable. In this case, the upper crate above the bed niche is assembled with a mesh of up to 300x400 mm, and the cross braces are placed offset, on the right in the figure, or in a checkerboard pattern.

Bed to him

The retractable bed to the podium is the same frame from the side rails of reduced height. In order to take on loads that are unnecessary for weak boards, the support belt is made reinforced, and the corners of its beams are necessarily connected by a half-tree tie-in on glue and reinforced with pairs of diagonally screwed self-tapping screws, see fig; dimensions - in cm. Glue - PVA or Express (liquid nails); fastening with hardware is carried out within no more than 5% of the time of complete curing of the adhesive.

Note: This bed rolls out. To roll out along, it is enough to turn the clip with rollers 90 degrees horizontally.

Design examples

with drawers

From a hygienic point of view, under-bed linen boxes are not the best option: things are constantly in stagnant air. In addition, over 90% of room dust is held in a layer of about 20 cm above the floor; this, by the way, is also a weighty argument against pull-out beds. But sometimes there is nowhere to go, there is simply no place for a linen closet or a stationary bed.

The design of beds with boxes faces a number of difficulties, mainly due to the direct interaction of the partitions with the floor. There is no way to fully account for the mechanics of either gender! You can get around them by constructing a bed in an unconventional way for furniture, namely, by calculating the spar similarly to the backbone frame of a truck, in the form of a powerful beam that can take any load and effectively dampen vibrations. The loads will be transferred to it by all the elements “splayed out” to the sides. In the Tatras, this approach made it possible to use an independent wheel suspension, which ensured excellent ride and cross-country ability, and a bed with boxes on a spinal frame will make it possible to vary their size, number and design of the bed in any way, without thinking about overall strength and creaks - the backbone will blow everything .

Note: in production, spinal load-bearing structures are labor-intensive, material-intensive, not technologically advanced and do not forgive design errors. But this is not a hindrance to a stubborn and skillful do-it-yourselfer.

The spine of the bed is made, of course, not from a large diameter steel pipe, as in a dump truck, but from a pair of 100x50 bars. The remaining parts of the carrier system, including inserts between the beams (longitudinals) of the ridge, are made of 100x100 timber. Backs and sides, which in this case are just decorative overlays - any, even cardboard ones. Dimensions can be taken from the figure, knowing that they are multiples of 10 mm and the overall length of the bed (including the thickness of the backs) is 2550 mm. Too much? The bed on the ridge can be increased to 3x2 m. Somersault as you like, there was only enough living space.

The bars of the supporting frame at the corners must cut into half a tree on glue and dowels - wedged through bosses, see fig. they should be perpendicular to the fibers of the wood of the part to be joined. If the bars are thin-layer hardwood, the wedges are placed diagonally across, as in fig. The frame with the ridge is attached to the legs with self-tapping screws with an envelope. The contact of the partitions with the floor does not matter, the ridge will absorb the vibrations. You can partition to the floor and not bring.

If you do not trust innovations, then a bed with drawers will have to be assembled on a rather complex frame that requires no less material. Dimensions and scheme - on the next. rice. This differs from standard designs in that it allows you to lay transverse lamellas, incl. bent.

About the mattress holders

What is it there in the ridge - "the location of the mattress clamps"? These are round or square bosses so that the mattress, fidgeting on the bed, does not rub, see fig. on right. Wooden mattresses on glue and nails go to the frame of the mattress on a rigid basis, felt ones can be sewn to the soft one. The size and location of the mattress clamps are chosen so that they fit into the grooves or holes of the bed and do not allow the mattress to move.

From chipboard

Chipboard in inexpensive beds is widely used, but almost always in combination with wood. The fact is that chipboard, which is generally strong, “does not like” concentrated loads very much, it is fragile at the ends, ribs and edges, and in small details it often delaminates already during sawing; chipboard bears alternating loads even worse than plywood. Therefore, in beds made of chipboard, at least the legs, the supporting belt of the bed and the spar are made of wood; drawings of this type of bed in fig. Please note that the crossbars from a 40x40 bar in this case are not lamellas, but ribs! There is no box on the drawing!

However, beds made entirely of chipboard are also found: a panel structure on a supporting cross, see fig. on right. There are no small details, the cross with overlays dampens the dynamics both from the bed and from the floor. Thickness of plates from 30 mm. All edges are edged with a piping for T-profile worktops. It is advisable to use a propylene edge, then you can do without plastic legs if the floor is even. You can put boxes. The disadvantage, in addition to those common for chipboard, is that if the bed is against the wall, half of the under-bed space disappears, because. in no case should the symmetry of the cross be violated.

A pallet from under building materials is good as the basis of a bed, not only and not so much because it is cheap. Firstly, pallets are made from a fairly high-quality wood, and until they are worn out for sale, it will shrink and dry out no worse than a selected array. Secondly, the pallet experiences the same loads as the bed, but stronger: they carry bricks over potholes on it! So about the strength of the pallet bed, you can, as they say, not hurt your head, just sand them, collect on long self-tapping screws how much and how you need, and finish.

The dimensions of a standard pallet are 100x80 cm, so from 4 you get just a double bed, pos. 1 in fig. The extra half of the boards is enough for fastening, a headboard, and even a bedside table; the rest will play the dynamics just in moderation. Under a soft mattress, it is better to cut out the bars inside to get a bed with a recess, pos. 2; scraps will go to the legs or other crafts, the tree is good. And from the pallets you can, without further ado, dial any podium, pos. 3.

Finally, the dimensions and shape of the pallet roughly correspond to one of the structural modules of the furniture. Whether fans know it or not, homemade pallet furniture is innumerable. Unfortunately, at least for a cursory review of it, a separate publication is needed.

Back to bed

A homemade headboard has an independent meaning: there are much cheaper mattress beds without headboards on sale; their frame is designed for additional loads. Fans make a variety of headboards on their own. Traditional rigid wooden, pos. 1 in Fig., is not bad and hygienic, but it is not always pleasant to feel it with the back of the head or the top of the head. You can give the back some elasticity by performing it on a woven veneer frame, pos. 2, or, in a rustic version, from a wicker, but the wicker back does not fit into every interior and is still not soft. Patchwork back, pos. 3 is quite soft, its aesthetics are determined by the fabric used and can therefore be adapted to any room design. Patchwork back pads are made on plywood shields of approximately 300x300x (4-6) mm using upholstered headboard technology, see below, but simpler: because. the fabric is stretched evenly, double padding of the edges is not necessary.

However, the best results are given by a classic upholstered headboard. For an amateur who does not know all the intricacies of working with upholstery fabrics, so that the upholstery does not wrinkle later, does not stretch, and the filler does not go astray, it should be done with double stitching along the contour, as in pos. 4. Compare pos. 5 and 6. The latter not only wrinkles unsightly, but will soon be rubbed over the scars. Step by step, the soft headboard is made as follows, see next. rice:

1. Foam rubber with a density of 35 or more is glued to the base, covered with batting (better - synthetic winterizer) and pinned along the edge with a furniture stapler. At the bottom, a strip of pure wood (plywood) with a width of 150 mm or more is left to attach to the bed frame;
2. A decorative fabric is also attached to the bottom with a stapler;
3. Curves are circled with it, attaching a stapler to the inside of the back with an indent from the edge of approx. 10 cm;
4. The corners are rounded with notches. It is better for beginners to do this together: one in front monitors the stretch, and the other forms scars in the back, cuts them and attaches flaps (scallops);
5. Decorative trim along the edge is upholstered with furniture nails;
6. A much better technical and aesthetic effect is given by a special decorative chain - furniture tape;
7. With a home-made thickness gauge from a square and a piece of chalk (option - a remnant), the outline of the second row of upholstery is outlined;
8. The upholstery is fastened with a stapler along the inner contour. it is the inner row that holds the entire skin evenly;
9. A decorative stitch is applied with the same furniture tape or nails.

Homemade exclusive

An inclined, and even more so a curved headboard is not only more convenient, but also an indispensable attribute of luxury beds. Meanwhile, it is easy to make it yourself: from a board 150 mm wide (thickness from 30 mm; for plywood from 10 mm), a headboard comes out with an inclination from the vertical of more than 10 degrees, pos. 1 in Fig., and even more than 20 degrees, pos. 2. From the same blanks, a very beautiful bed with a curved headboard is obtained, only its crate needs to be done more often, but from thinner, 25-30 mm, slats, pos. 3.

The backrest is attached to the frame and / or legs of the bed with corners. Its back side, in order to hide the fasteners and for rigidity, is sewn up with a 4-6 mm fiberboard sheet, the blue dotted line in Fig. If the bed is all in sight, decoration is being carried out on it. Something on the front side, then you can put the same shield on it with soft lining or decor, a red dotted line on pos. 4. And you can, by widening the sidewall for strength and abandoning the front crate, sew the back fiberboard from the face and place a completely upholstered headboard in the form of a pillow (pillows) into the resulting pocket.

Note: a curved headboard to maintain the style is better to sheathe fiberboard and front and rear, paint and complement in an oriental way with a mattress / mattresses with tassels.

How about single?

A single bed is about 1.5 times narrower than a double bed. This seriously changes its mechanics with acoustics, so the construction of a single bed is simpler and allows more amateur liberties. There are a wide variety of options for execution, as well as for a children's bed. For example, how to make a single bed over the weekend, the materials for which will take as much as about 1000 rubles, see.

Video: do-it-yourself single bed (under the mattress 190 × 90)

From a bar

A bed entirely made of timber will cost more than the same plank or chipboard, its manufacture will require special tools and a carpentry workshop. If you can do all this, you will end up with a lot of benefits:

• Square and round beams almost do not warp during shrinkage along the length, which facilitates the selection of material.
• It is possible, without fear of loss of strength of the product, to use hidden dowel connections, see fig. on right.
• The bed will give a solid and prestigious look even to a very simple interior, pos. 1 in fig. below.
• The ability to make a bed with floating bedside tables, pos. 2. In amateur conditions, only a massive timber frame will give them reliable support.
• The ability to fully express yourself creatively in any kind of rustic or country design, pos. 3-5.
• And not only in rustic styles: a bed made of scraps of small timber in pos. 6 is laborious, but fits into any interior, and a connoisseur will appreciate it on a par with antiques.

metal in bed

Of bad memory, "soviet" hostel and barracks iron beds with armored mesh, thank God, almost all have sunk into oblivion. Modern metal beds are either piece-handicraft forged at a price of thousands of USD, or their frame is made of a profile pipe with plastic coating, not chilling, not ugly, not traumatic. But the fundamental drawback of metal beds is unremovable: a complete mismatch in mechanical and temperature characteristics with wood and materials based on it. Therefore, in the current metal beds, wood is used only in the form of decorative overlays.

The second serious drawback of the metal is corrosion, and the third is ductility. That is, the welding seams of steel beds of general consumer segments sometimes crack, and the frame elements bend. In addition to the fixing plates mentioned above, the only case where it is difficult to do without metal in a bed is the frame of the lifting mattress made of metal, see fig. Wooden, no matter how pleased at first the product of its creator, is soon loosened.

All? No, not all.

The world of beds is vast and varied and, unfortunately, it is not possible to cover it in one publication. For example, wardrobe beds, sofas and armchairs you probably know. But did you know that the folding back of a not fully retractable bed can also be a coffee table? And that there are accordion beds that regularly serve as bedside tables in anticipation of a guest in the family? What about beds without a mattress? In an apartment - not in an apartment, but it will come in handy in the country, and savings on a mattress alone are at least 10 thousand rubles. Or, say, a bed made of bamboo. Looks chic in an exclusive interior, see fig. But, at least technologically, it is quite accessible for self-production.

Well, let's hope we get a chance to talk about them and various others, and for you to make the bed of your dreams.

A solid wood bed is a high-quality, durable, environmentally friendly piece of furniture that provides a person with a comfortable and healthy sleep. To always feel good and be full of strength, you need to sleep on a comfortable bed both at home and during a trip to the country. But most summer residents consider it unjustified to purchase an expensive bed for seasonal housing.

Budget solution - self-assembled bed

However, it is not at all necessary to spend large sums of money to organize a comfortable bed. You can make a bed out of wood with your own hands, for this it is enough to have the necessary tools, materials, drawings. Before you start making furniture from oak boards or beams, you need to imagine what should happen upon completion of the work. It is advisable to draw up a drawing or select ready-made product schemes.

Finding ready-made drawings is an easier solution, but only relevant if a standard size mattress is placed on the bed. If the master has a mattress of unusual dimensions at his disposal, then the finished drawings will have to be adapted to the existing conditions. In any case, experts recommend that you first look at or purchase a mattress for a single, one-and-a-half or double bed, and then look for or draw up an appropriate drawing.

A do-it-yourself wooden bed can be made from natural wood (oak, pine), chipboard, plywood or furniture board. To work, the master will need:

1. Materials: furniture board or several boards for the frame, a given number of pine or oak beams to form lamellas (log can also be made from plywood sheets), 4 beams or the same number of logs for making legs, wooden spikes and eyes or self-tapping screws and metal corners , as well as carpentry glue for connecting structural parts, varnish for coating the finished product.
2. Tools: ruler, pencil, screwdriver with various attachments, electric jigsaw or chisel, grinder.

We assemble the basis of the product - its frame

Making a bed begins with determining its future dimensions. The average dimensions of a single bed are 100 cm wide and about 200 cm long. For the manufacture of the frame, you can take several boards 25 cm wide and about 4 cm thick: 2 boards 200 cm long (for sidewalls) and 2 more - 100 cm long (for ends).

Parts are connected in several ways. The choice of any of them depends on the preferences and level of training of the master:

1. Making the bed yourself using eyelets and wooden spikes. This is a rather complicated method, but it provides a reliable and high-quality connection of elements. The connection of the boards should be made W-shaped. Nests can be hollowed out with a chisel or cut with a jigsaw. The grooves should be about 5 cm deep and about 2-3 cm wide. The groove angles should be aligned at 90 degrees. Then the prepared joints should be smeared with glue and assembled.

1. Making a bed with a minimum of effort is possible when using self-tapping screws to connect structural parts. In this case, it is recommended to strengthen the frame with metal corners.

The manufacture of a one-and-a-half or double bed provides for the installation of additional longitudinal stiffeners from bars with a cross section of at least 5x5 cm.

Installing slats correctly

When the manufacture of the frame is completed, you need to proceed to the installation of lamellas (lag), it is on them that the mattress will subsequently be located. A person lying on the bed creates a load on the slats, and from the slats, it, in turn, passes to the frame and legs of the product.

To protect these structural elements from rapid wear, special support strips must be attached to the longitudinal beams. They must be strong enough to support the weight of a person. Therefore, for a single bed, planks are recommended to be made from 4x4 cm square bars.

The slats should be placed on both sides of the bed frame for giving, so for work you will need 2 beams 190 cm long. The slats should be attached to the body from the inside, using self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws should be located at a distance of 15 cm from each other. To ensure that each lag lies in its intended place, bars of oak or other material can be attached to the supporting bar. What this design looks like, the drawing shows:

But making a bed is possible without grooves on the slats. If the plank has a flat surface, then home-made logs are simply installed at a given distance from each other and attached with self-tapping screws and corners.

You can also purchase ready-made lamellas with fasteners. Another simple and affordable way to make a solid base for placing a mattress is to lay a sheet of plywood or several fairly thick boards on the slats.

The next stage of work will be the manufacture of headboards for the bed. Usually the headboard is made higher than the side in the leg area. You can make a design from a furniture board, boards, logs or any other material. Here, a wide scope for imagination opens up before the master.

Finishing touch: attaching the legs

A conversation about how to make a wooden bed cannot do without discussing such an important issue as attaching the legs to the bed. It is allowed to manufacture these elements from bars or logs. The second option is perfect for a rustic-style interior, and the first will add the necessary rigidity to the structure. A compromise option involves turning the logs in the upper part (at the points of their connection with the frame) and maintaining their natural shape in the lower part. The recommended height of the legs is 25 cm, and their width should be at least 5x5 cm. You can attach the legs to the frame using self-tapping screws and metal corners.

In the season of gardens and holidays, you want to spend more time outdoors near your favorite beds, spruce forests and rivers. But you have to spend time returning to an apartment under the roof of a city high-rise building, because in the garden house there is no comfortable beds , and your living room without a bedroom and a night bed is right next to the dining table. Do not despair!

It all depends on how and where you want to use it. A single bed will suffice for your teenage child. beds . If you are of a large physique, then a comfortable sleep will come only on the "one and a half".

Are you married? So, you need a double from solid wood.

If there is enough space, then equip a pull-out bed under the podium, and place a cozy seating area with a coffee table on top, to which steps lead. In a small room where every square meter is expensive, build podium bed.

Built-in drawers for storing bed linen, clothes and other things.

For bed linen, place a tall, narrow drawer with a top hinged lid at the head of the bed. It is convenient to store pillows and blankets in it during the day, and at night - a cape.Assemble a beautiful decorative back and nail it to the wall above the headboard. Place night lights on it.

This will give your bed an aristocratic chic and comfort.

Choose a material and decide on a price

The metal is too expensive, requires a specially equipped workshop, a welding machine, has a high specific gravity and does not retain heat well. Good furniture can be assembled at home from sawn timber that is quite affordable, without overpaying for a well-known brand.

Building a wooden bed with your own hands will cost less than buying a finished one in a store.

How to make a wooden bed with your own hands

Best for beds wood of medium (from 550 to 760 kg/m³) and high density - over 760 kg/m³. It wears out less, but is harder to process.

Optimum in terms of strength and ease of processing is pine.

IMPORTANT! Spruce is not suitable for load-bearing elements and bed legs . It breaks down quickly under stress.

For the base frame, select boards or timber from dense wood - larch, birch. The legs can be made from bars, and the slats under the mattress from cheap pine boards 2 cm thick. Thin spruce boards 0.5 cm. Carefully check the material for knots, bumps and roughness.

The fewer such defects, the easier it is to process it with a grinder.

Check the curvature of workpieces in a simple and effective way.

1. Raise it by one of the ends to eye level.
2. The edges going from the near to the far end should be a straight line in perspective - their curvature will be immediately noticeable.

ATTENTION! Be sure to draw. Consider the size of your mattress. They may not match the ones below. Frame interior beds should be a little more. An allowance within 30 mm is allowed.

Immediately determine the presence and height of the legs.

Bed solid wood can be made without them by gluing cloth pads at the corners to protect the floor from scratches. For light singles and "one and a half" the optimal height will be 35-40 cm - you can vacuum and wash the floor or build a drawer for storing things and clothes.

ADVICE! Try to reinforce the joints with a furniture corner where possible.

Making a wooden bed with your own hands may not be the easiest solution, but the most profitable one.

Entry level bed

Under a mattress measuring 80x190 or 90x200 cm, build a simple single wooden bed . It is suitable for an adult or teenager. For manufacturing you will need:

• B rus for four legs with a section of 50x50mm;
• D skewer 25x245 mm for side rails and footboard, 25x100 mm - for the manufacture of overlapping rails, 25x200 mm- for the headboard wall;
• B rus with a section of 50x25mm for the manufacture of support beams for floor slats;

Bed materials.

In addition to good lumber, get:

• Furniture corners or bed ties.
• To fixing screws 60 mm;
• piping length 80 and a section diameter of 8 mm;
• With wood glue;
• M orilka or impregnation for wood;
• BUT acrylic water varnish.

Materials required for work.

During the assembly of this and other variants beds use tools:

• D relay and screwdriver;
• H small hand planer;
• R hand saw circular or furniture hacksaw;
• W bodice machine or grinder;
• H a few clamps;
• To sources for applying glue, varnish and stain;
• R sliding joiner's square;
• With building level;
• M alka - a device for quickly marking cut corners;
• With dull - a tool for fast and accurate sawing of workpieces at an angle of 45 and 90 °;
• And measuring tape.

Tools to help you get the job done.

Assemble the headboard first. From a bar with a section of 50x50 mm, cut out two legs up to 80 cm high. Drill 4-6 holes with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 30 mm in their upper part from the inside. From boards 25x200 mm, cut out two blanks 950 mm wide. From the ends, make holes up to 50 mm deep, matching those that you made on the legs.

Lubricate the parts with carpentry glue at the articulation points and fasten with dowels, carefully hammering with a mallet.

The footboard is made from boards 25x240x950 mm and two pieces of timber 400 mm high.

Fasten them in the same way.

The backs are fastened to the side walls 25x250x1900 mm with furniture corners or ties, aligned along the outer edge legs.

NOTE! Ties will make it easy to disassemble the furniture when moving.

Along the lower edge of the right and left walls, using wood glue and clamps, support beams 25x50 mm are installed and long 190-200 cm. After drying, before removing the clamps, the beams are additionally screwed with self-tapping screws.

Assembling the side wall of the bed.

From boards 25x100 mm, make 12-14 transverse rails long 95 cm. From the left and right ends, through holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled at a distance of 12 mm from the edge. Lay them across the support beams at a distance of 35-50 mm and tighten the screws.

Final assembly of the bed.

IMPORTANT! All parts must be sanded before assembly. With a sliding square, check the "straightness" of the corners between the side walls and the backs beds . Using a building level, control the horizontal arrangement of the frame structural elements.

Treat the rough surface with a grinder. The outer ribs of the backrests and other parts can be chamfered to prevent chipping of the wood and improve the appearance. For longer service life, treat wood stain and dry. Cover with acrylic varnish.

As you can see, making a wooden single bed is not at all difficult.

NOTE! To end faces legs when moving, they did not scratch the floor, you can glue felt pads to them.

Single bed

There are differences in the design of the backs, and its longitudinal axis is reinforced with a jumper with a leg that prevents the mattress from sagging.

It is made under a mattress with dimensions of 140x200 cm.

The head of the lorry consists of a wall and two legs . Make a wall from 2-3 boards long 1400 mm and 25 mm thick, reaching the desired height (30-40 cm). The legs are made of timber 50x50x800 mm. Fastening wall elements and legs made with tongues 8x80 mm, carpentry glue and reinforced with long self-tapping screws from 65 mm.

The footboard is assembled in the same way.

Side rails of the bed - one and a half should be located on the same level with the lower boards of the backs and have the same height.For variety, change the design of the backs beds . The middle board of the wall can be replaced with short vertical inserts from the same boards fastened with tongues.

Corners can be cut at the outer edge of the top board.

To do this, using a special tool - malki - make markings with a pencil. Malka consists of a handle pressed against the edge boards , a narrow metal plate with a longitudinal cutout, and a mounting bolt that allows you to fix the plate by setting the desired angle and length of the cut. In such a simple way, you will quickly draw symmetrical cut lines on the left and right ends. To prevent the hacksaw from leaving the line, press a wooden guide bar along the marking with clamps.

To give an interesting look to the bed, before varnishing, you can limit yourself to applying stain only to the surface of the legs and backs.

How to make a wooden double bed

Two adults is a serious weight, which requires a more thorough approach in the choice of material and assembly method. Make a sleeping bed out of solid wood.

The basis is a standard double mattress measuring 200 by 160 cm.

You will need the following materials:

• B bar 50x50 mm for legs and bed frame, 3x3 cm - for support beams under the slats for the mattress;
• D oski 20x100 mm for the transverse flooring under the mattress;
• M metal furniture corner with a shelf width of 50 mm;
• With self-tapping screws 40 and 65 mm long.

From the tools you will need an electric jigsaw, equipped with a file with large and widely spaced teeth.

First, we assemble the frame for beds with internal dimensions of 210x170 cm and a height of at least 15-20 cm. To do this, glue three or four pieces of timber, tighten with clamps. After drying, we cut in such a way as to obtain two blanks for the side sides long 220 cm each and two for the backs - 180 cm each.

In the same way, we assemble a longitudinal jumper 10 cm high and 210 cm long.

When assembling, use a "lock" type connection. To do this, on short workpieces, use a jigsaw to cut a notch, removing a segment from the middle long 5 cm. On long blanks of the side walls beds , leave the "thorn" by sawing off the top and bottom of 5 cm.

Apply glue to the notches and spikes and connect them at a right angle, checking with a sliding square.

Attach the longitudinal jumper with additional support in the middle using a metal corner with a shelf width of 50 mm, aligning it with the lower edge of the frame. In the corners, attach legs from a bar up to 40 cm high. Fasten with glue and self-tapping screws.

For strength, secure the connections with clamps.

For greater reliability, make legs beds from a thicker bar. To give them an elegant look, chamfer the inside at a 45° angle using a miter box. Do not overdo it - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport should be sufficient to withstand a lot of weight. When mounting the legs, use long countersunk head bolts with washers and wood glue.

At the bottom of each corner, place triangular inserts that serve to prevent deformation of the structure.

Glue beams of 3x3x210 cm timber along the long side walls.

Their upper face must be in the same plane with the upper face of the jumper.

From boards 20x100 mm make slats long 170 cm. They are laid and fixed across the lintel and longitudinal support beams with an interval of 3 cm.

The first and last rails should be adjacent to the front and rear walls of the frame, the rest should be evenly distributed between them.

IMPORTANT! To prevent the slats from squeaking, make them shorter than the inner width of the frame by 1 cm.

After assembly is complete, carefully sand the surface with a grinder or drill with a special nozzle using medium to fine grit sandpaper.Cover with stain, and after drying - with water-based acrylic varnish in several layers.

For double bed you can make a wall headboard from 2-3 boards long 25x100x1800 mm and 10-12 boards 25x100x450 mm. The first row that will be in contact with the back will go short boards . On the wrong side, it is necessary to equip hidden fasteners. At the appropriate places on the headboard, fasten metal plates with self-tapping screws, the free lower edge of which will be inserted into the grooves of the tires when hung.

The most reliable solution would be to fix the rails for wall cabinets with dowels on the wall - according to the number of short boards.

If you do not like a hard headboard, assemble it with upholstery from the following layers:

• D JV or plywood 1cm;
• P orolon from 3 cm;
• In atin;
• O bib fabric with an interesting pattern;

From a piece of plywood or chipboard, cut out the base 45x180 cm.

Bevel the ribs and sand carefully so as not to tear the upholstery and batting.

From expanded polystyrene or foam rubber, cut a workpiece that matches in size and shape. Attach it to the chipboard and make several symmetrical holes for decorative buttons. Measure and cut the batting and upholstery to the shape of the blank with an allowance equal to the sum of the thicknesses of all the blanks, multiplied by two.

Make sure the holes are symmetrical.

Using glue or a special spray, glue the foam rubber to the base. Carefully spread the batting on the floor. Lay a piece of chipboard on it.

Bend the seamed edges, starting from the bottom, and nail to the chipboard with a furniture stapler.

Repeat this operation with upholstery. To prevent the fabric from wrinkling, iron it and tighten it properly using clamps screwed to the middle of the workpiece.

IMPORTANT! Don't skimp on stapler staples. Nobody will see them anyway.

Finally, sew on the sofa buttons. From the wrong side of the headboard, pierce the upholstery with a large "boot" needle and drag a thick coarse thread, thread it through the eye of the button and bring it back through the same hole.

Fix the ends of the thread with a stapler on the wrong side of the back.

Hang the upholstered headboard on the wall with the help of rails for wall cabinets.

A wooden bed with your own hands, made according to a personal project, will cost less than a purchased one.

Remember, the lack of extra money and the lack of living space are not an obstacle to the fulfillment of the desire to sleep comfortably.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself wooden double bed.

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands do not know boredom!

Content

Half of a person's life is spent sleeping, which is why it's so important to equip yourself with a comfortable place to relax. A good bed can also be purchased at the store, but it is better to make it yourself, taking into account the wishes for dimensions or materials. This is relevant, because furniture manufacturers have recently not pampered buyers with low prices.

Features of making beds with your own hands

The development of the future double bed begins:

• with the preparation of materials;
• searching for tools;
• determination of dimensions;
• creating a drawing.

Each of these factors should be given special attention, since the correct choice depends on how comfortable the bed will be in the future, and how well it will perform its, albeit simple, functions. A do-it-yourself double bed is easy to assemble, the main thing is to follow all the instructions and buy the necessary items. Then it will look like in the photo of glossy furniture magazines.

The first thing to do is to determine the dimensions of the future double bed. The most important factor is the mattress, the dimensions of which are dictated by European standards - 160 by 200 centimeters. This nuance should be taken into account when determining the dimensions of the bed. Another detail is the size of the room where the bed will be located. If the room allows you to install basic double size furniture without hesitation, then take this standard as a basis.

A do-it-yourself double bed is best made from pine or spruce. The board should be chosen dried, without knots (so as not to waste time and money on grinding). Wood for the frame must be of high quality. The legs can be made from second-rate material, and the slats that support the mattress are taken from the simplest. For beauty and greater convenience, you can upholster the tree with a fabric with foam rubber inside. For a homemade double bed, you need the following tools:

• roulette;
• drill;
• glue for wood;
• square;
• iron corners;
• self-tapping screws (30, 50, 60 mm) or nails;
• screwdriver;
• varnish (acrylic);
• stain;
• brushes;
• sandpaper.

How to make a double bed with your own hands

If you make a double bed yourself, then you can come up with different variations of its execution. For example, it can be with drawers for storing pillows / blankets. Some find it more convenient to hide underwear inside (under the base). It happens that people make transforming beds or bunk beds for themselves. There are many options, but the main thing is imagination and the ability to work with tools. Consider several types of beds that you can make with your own hands.

How to make a bed with your own hands from wood

To make a frame (calculation for standard double beds), you will need the following set of lumber:

• 50x50 mm (2.6 m) - 2 pcs.;
• 25x75 mm (2 m) - 12 pcs.;
• 50x150 mm (2.6 m) - 5 pcs.;
• 100x100 mm (2.6 m) - 2 pcs.

The frame is assembled very simply (make sure that the length of the base of the bed is slightly longer than the mattress):

1. Cut boards 150x50 thick into blanks into blanks: two along the length of the bed, three along the width.
2. Connect the sides of the bed (transverse) with boards (longitudinal).
3. Fasten everything with screws/glue.
4. The base for the transverse boards is cut out of 50x50 mm bars and fastened so that the niche for the mattress has a depth of 3 cm.
5. Boards 25x75 mm are placed on the frame, corresponding to the width of the frame. Fastened with screws.
6. Lastly, boards are installed on the headboard.
7. Take a bar with a section of 100x100 and cut it to make legs (compare the dimensions with your drawings).
8. Cut out grooves in the legs for fastenings on both sides.
9. On the ends on one side of each of the legs, chamfer 1 cm.
10. Attach the frame to the legs with self-tapping screws and make sure the structure is strong.
11. Cover with varnish and stain, let dry.
12. Put a mattress on top, and a standard do-it-yourself double bed is made and ready to use.

Double bed with drawers made of chipboard

For such a design of a double bed, legs are not provided, and transverse boards from the floor to the mattress are added to the main frame described above. In addition, it is necessary to purchase wide sheets of chipboard for drawers and accessories for them. The back of the bed and the back must be increased by the height of the legs. How to assemble such a double bed:

1. Make a frame by connecting the sides to the back (the boards are attached to such a height that boxes fit under them).
2. Place the frame vertically and fix two transverse boards (one in length and one in width) with screws and corners, thus forming a cross in the center of the bed.
3. From the inside, mount the spars that will support the under-mattress structures (a wide sheet of chipboard or planks measuring 20x80x100 mm).
4. Build boxes from chipboard according to the drawing - according to the size of the bed recesses. Attach fittings with small wheels to the lower outer sides.
5. From the bottom of the inner sides of the transverse boards, place the fasteners (metal guides along which the roll-out boxes will drive back into the grooves).

Double bed with lifting mechanism made of solid wood

The mechanism with which you can easily raise the top of the bed with a mattress is a very convenient thing. Bedding is hidden in the cavity inside the bed, used for other items that you want to hide from your eyes. The assembly is practically no different from the option with boxes. There is one caveat - special lifting mechanisms are installed under the mattress net. As in the case of drawers, the legs of the bed are not provided. How to assemble a do-it-yourself double bed from an array:

1. Mount the frame as described in the second option.
2. Assemble the riser from a five-bar frame connecting the bottom and top bars.
3. For reliability, fasten the bars together with corners (make holes and connect with bolts).
4. Screw the lifting mechanism in a compressed state to the bottom of the frame.
5. Lay the frame on the base of the stock and screw the other side of the mechanism to the lower spar.
6. Make a large chipboard box to match the size of the bed niche.

Assembly diagram of a double bed-transformer

It happens that there is not much space in the room - a transforming bed is useful here. When folded, it looks like an ordinary wardrobe, and if you pull the upper part of the structure, a full-fledged double bed will appear. How to make such a place to sleep with your own hands:

1. Start making a wall box from two 2.1 m long supporting boards.
2. Fasten (with screws with PVA glue) them at the bottom with a transverse board 1.7 m long.
3. Place another fastener at the top of the structure on the back side of the carrier racks.
4. Install exactly the same board at the top of the structure, only in front.
5. Place the end board to secure the top of the stock.
6. Make the folding part of the product, on which the mattress will be located, from sheets of thick plywood, fixed along the edges with wide boards.
7. Fasten both parts of the bed with special fasteners that are sold at any furniture store.
8. For convenience, it is recommended to place fasteners on top of the carrier box, which will fix (not allow to open) the product in the assembled state.

DIY baby bed at home

For children, especially if there are two of them in the family, it would be better to make a bunk bed with your own hands. From the remnants of fittings and wood, you can build a toy house for dolls that children will play with. A bunk bed is made very simply:

1. Measure children's mattresses and add two centimeters to the future frame.
2. Bars measuring 100x50 mm (6 pieces - two of them are cut in half) must be fixed with screws, so that two frames for a bunk bed are obtained.
3. Attach a 150x20mm board to the end of the stock base and the other side.
4. A side 200x20 mm is also placed on the second frame.
5. Make legs from 100x50 mm bars.
6. Place supports on the bottom frame in the corners to support the top bed.
7. Cut out a sheet of high rigidity plywood to fit the frames and lay the mattresses.
8. Make boards on the upper tier from the boards and attach a ladder.

Video: how to make a double bed frame