Typical roof units and features of their device. Node adjoining the parapet to the roof

If you're determined to build your home with a trendy and functional flat roof, then it's time to put some thought into fencing! So an open area at a height will be safe, comfortable and suitable even for children's games. Moreover, the roof parapet will simultaneously play an important aesthetic role, giving the exterior of the building a complete, logical and stylish look.

You will be surprised to learn how many types of parapets exist, what design masterpieces are made from them and which option is best for you!

So, let's start with what exactly is called a parapet on the roof, and what it should be like. In fact, this is a low perimeter fence, which is equipped not only on roofs, but also on terraces, balconies, bridges and even embankments. The parapet is rightfully considered one of the architectural elements of buildings, because it is always visible, even from afar.

Rain and melt water often falls not only on the cornices, but also on the attics and walls, which are gradually filled with moisture. After some time, the surface begins to crumble, and the masonry begins to collapse. That's just in order to protect the walls and install parapets.

The profiles themselves are often used as lightning rods. To do this, they are grounded, the profiles themselves are selected from a rather thick metal with a seam or terminal connection, high-temperature soldering, welding or threaded connection. But in Russia, there is no official permission to use a metal parapet as a lightning rod yet, as in many other countries.

What is, in fact, a lightning rod? This is a metal part that intercepts the lightning discharge and does not allow the structure to come into contact with the high-temperature channel. And any lightning rod should include three main elements: a lightning receiver, down conductor and grounding.

According to Russian legislation, a lightning rod can be made of steel, aluminum or copper with a thickness of 50, 70 and 35 mm2, respectively, and a minimum thickness of at least 0.5 mm.

At the same time, neither a layer of plastic up to 1 mm, nor a layer of anti-corrosion paint or even an asphalt coating up to 0.5 mm is an obstacle for lightning. In principle, a metal parapet meets these requirements if there is no combustible building structure underneath. But often it is made from other materials too:

Types and types of roof fencing

You have probably noticed that most often the edges of a flat roof are trimmed with metal profiles in the form of attics. This is necessary in order to effectively separate rainwater from the walls, protect the roofing material from mechanical damage and provide the most reliable waterproofing for the parapet.

It will be interesting for you to know that in Western countries the shape of the parapet profile is not chosen based on economic considerations or design ideas - everything is dictated by the codes of construction work.

The profiles for the parapet themselves are load-bearing and non-bearing. If they are mounted on special, corrosion-resistant fasteners and brackets, these are load-bearing systems. The profile itself must be of sufficient thickness, from 1.25 mm, and resistant to any wind.

But non-bearing profiles are attached to auxiliary and supporting structures. They are much thinner, from only 0.4 to 0.8 mm, made of anti-corrosion metal, as well as wood. The compensation bar is glued below the main profile.

The main requirement for the corners and joints of the parapet is water tightness. Therefore, the edging fasteners are always mounted flush. A tWhere the metal edging is glued to the edges of the roof, the width of the overlap must be from 120 mm, and all joints must be waterproof.

If in the process of arranging the parapet you have to install elements with a length of 3 meters or more, then additional structures will be needed.

In total, the thickness of the metal directly depends on the purpose of the parapet:

To solve a problem of any complexity, companies today offer a wide choice: parapets of various shapes, corners, decorative strips and special elements for fixing.

The main requirement for the parapet is that the edging should be sloped to a horizontal surface and equipped with a cornice.

Technical requirements and building codes

With a minimum or zero angle of inclination, a metal parapet is able to withstand increased atmospheric loads.

Modern parapets are made of copper, aluminum and titanium-zinc. Depending on the material of manufacture, the method of connecting the profile is selected: riveting, double fold, welding and high- or low-temperature soldering.

For a copper profile, it is necessary to install a cornice with a size of 50 mm or more. Separately, we also note titanium-zinc, for which there are installation rules: installation with a slope of at least 3 °, and up to 15 ° it is necessary to lay a separating layer with a drainage function.

In Russia, they are rare, but still there are wooden parapets. Naturally, a cover must also be installed on top of them, but this time with an anti-condensate superdiffuse membrane. To do this, you need to install the strips on which the top cover will be attached. Next, a part of the membrane is laid on the corner.

Now, metal strips are also installed on the sides of the parapet, which will protect the tree. A cover is made from a metal sheet (in this case, titanium-zinc is suitable):

To connect the profiles of the parapet end-to-end, you need a standing, double or recumbent fold, as well as trim strips. Abroad, some rules for arranging a parapet recommend connecting the corners of the attics by welding, or cutting the corners of the attic from a single canvas, while others say that only internal corners should be made from two parts. In a word, both options are acceptable to some extent.

The main thing is to take into account the linear expansion and contraction of the metal, because the parapet is in the open air, and most of all of all the structures of the house heats up in the heat and rapidly loses temperature in the cold.

Therefore, if you fasten the roof parapet too rigidly, for example, with a standing seam, or place metal profiles directly on the edge of the roof, material distortion cannot be avoided.

That is why, if the standing seam technique has already been applied, the use of overlapping butt strips and expansion joints is also necessary:

Arrangement of a parapet on a residential building

Additional supporting and auxiliary structures are made of steel, aluminum and wooden profiles. If you chose wood, the bars should be at least 30 mm thick, plus treat them with bio- and fire retardants.

If you consider metal substructures more reliable, then take a steel profile or stainless aluminum. Ideally, if it is the same metal as the parapet, otherwise consider the compatibility of such materials.

By the way, in Russia most often the parapets are simply glued together. To do this, produce special adhesives for fixing metal products to almost any surface. Those. the parapet, cornice and ebb can be securely fixed to a concrete, wood or brick surface.

For this purpose, moisture-resistant plywood is most often laid on the supporting base of the roof perimeter and fixed. Such a base for the parapet is almost perfect, and metal is attached with Enke glue. This method, unlike others, allows not only to achieve a flat surface and provide the desired reduction in wind noise.

By the way, the easiest option for arranging a parapet is to cover it with mastic or modern liquid rubber:

Parapet roof fastening methods

Parapets are recommended to be made of a metal profile and installed with a slope of 3 ° towards the roof. At the same time, the height of the parapet and the extension beyond the roof depends on the height of the building. There is such a thing as the elevation of the parapet roof.

Let's look at each type of parapet roof attachment.

Method number 1. crutches

We are talking about special products made of steel strip with a width of 40-60 mm and a thickness of 4-5 mm. These strips are welded into a T-shaped profile, which is quite laborious, but most practical, because this increases the contact area.

But crutches have such disadvantages as low corrosion resistance, which causes rusty streaks on the facades of the building, plus the need for a large number of point fasteners. And this leads to loosening of fasteners, separation of the profile in strong winds and the frequent need for repairs.

The main requirement for the installation of crutches is tightness:

Method number 2. False planks

The roof of the parapet is also fastened to false strips made of stainless and galvanized steel with a thickness of at least 1 mm. This method requires welding, but is more reliable in the wind, because here the entire load is evenly distributed over all corners.

Method number 3. overlap

This is the simplest and most affordable profile, but it is far from the most airtight. It is allowed to be used only with a ventilated base and a profile width of up to 300 mm. An additional mount for finishing is mounted on the slats themselves, and at the end of the installation, the tightness of the entire parapet is carefully checked.

Method number 4. Sticking

With parapet widths from 600 mm, parapet covers are glued to the base in combination with T-profiles or false strips. Such fastening is the most resistant to wind load and moisture, because there is already an additional layer of waterproofing - glue. Adhesive based on rubber, bitumen and polyurethane fills the pores of the base.

In combination with gluing and a false strip, a UDS connector and an underlay profile are also used.

Here is another good example where sticking is applied:

Only gluing helps when foam is used as a parapet roof. This method is often resorted to when the parapet itself is a continuation of the load-bearing wall of the house, and then it can serve as a bridge of cold. Even more: condense moisture!

Here's how to make such a roof:

• Step 1. Connect the planks at the junction of the corner with mounting glue.
• Step 2. Also put the foam strips on the glue themselves, and cut off the excess from the side of the street.
• Step 3. Stitch the excess foam on top and sweep away debris.
• Step 4. Tape the inner and outer corners with tape, and apply mounting foam on top.
• Step 5. Cut the roofing membrane into pieces of the desired size, and stick on top of the foam.
• Step 6. Carefully seal all seams.
• Step 7. Smooth out the entire surface by hand.

Here's what such a process looks like:

Method number 5. Single or double fold

Single rebate is one of the most popular methods, suitable for profile widths up to 450 mm and ventilated spaces.

A double rebate is recommended with a parapet width of 600 mm or more and with a ventilated space. Another type of fastening with such initial data is prohibited, because temperature fluctuations and additional stresses easily arise here, and, as a result, the nodes are loosened.

Method number 6. Mounting in the inner or outer bar

This method is suitable for adhesive bonding, the presence of a ventilated base and a profile width of up to 600 mm.

Method number 7. Laying a waterproofing membrane

One of the most reliable ways to protect a parapet is to wrap it with a PVC membrane. This must be done in such a way that the PVC membrane either goes on a horizontal surface by 80-100 mm, or on the outer surface of the parapet:

• Step 1. First of all, you need to fix it with a metal rail.
• Step 2. Cut the metal rail to the desired length and fix it on the parapet.
• Step 3 Attach the membrane strip to the parapet between the metal strips.
• Step 4 Lay the membrane tape over the parapet.
• Step 5. Cut out special corners from the membrane and secure them with stitching rollers and a welding machine.
• Step 6. Treat all the edges and folds of the membrane with the same tools.
• Step 7 Lay the canvases at the bottom of the parapet in two layers.
• Step 8 Cover additionally all corners.

Such a membrane can be left like the rest on the roof surface, or additionally covered with metal covers:

We also mention the modern fashion to use a flat roof with a parapet for practical purposes, equipping it with recreation areas and additional open space for personal tasks. In this case, a special glass railing is attached to the parapet:

This is the technology of the device, protection and waterproofing of the parapet of a residential building. Study! And if you have any questions, ask them in the comments to the article.

Roofing materials, like everything else in the world, do not last forever. Manufacturers give guarantees for the operation of certain roofing materials, only if they are properly installed. So, in order to avoid swelling of the rolled roof, it is necessary to carry out a competent connection with a wall, an apron, a pipe, a parapet, etc.

Before forming the junction of the roof to the wall, it is necessary:

• Plaster the roof surface along the entire height of the junction. In this case, the height should not be less than 30 cm;
• Then nail wooden slats having a triangular section of not less than 5x5 cm. It is on these slats that the lining carpet and tiles will be installed;
• Next, a valley carpet is glued onto the layer of bituminous mastic, which should be attached to the wall in its upper part with the help of adjoining strips and dowels.

At the same time, the valley carpet enters the wall by no less than 30 cm, and the slope will be at least 15 cm.

The sealing of the upper ends of the formed abutments should be provided with a silicone sealant.

The device for adjoining a roof with an apron can be made in several ways:

1. When using metal tiles or any other profiled material, the connection around the chimney must be carried out by 2 metal aprons - upper and lower. The chimney is insulated from the roof with asbestos, the crate will be solid, however, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 13 cm from the masonry.
2. When installing a roof made of soft material, the installation of 2 aprons is not possible. In this case, the installation of the connection must be carried out along the outer contour. At the same time, the upper bar is provided 30-40 cm longer than the pipe, and the remaining bars are mounted directly on the coating.

Soft roof connection device

The device for adjoining a soft roof takes place in several stages:

• The strobe on the wall must be made 20-50 cm above the surface of the coating;
• A beam with a triangular section is attached along the entire perimeter of the junction;
• The junction points on the roof are cleaned of debris and treated with a primer;
• Soft coating is laid on the timber;
• The strip for the valley is attached to bituminous mastic or sealant;
• The rolled material is smoothed and pressed, and large crumbs are cleaned off at the gluing points;
• At the end of the work, the junction nodes are fixed with a metal strip having a flanging and attached to the wall with dowels.

There are 2 ways to adjoin a roof made of built-up materials:

1. Overlap. In this case, the roll material is mounted in such a way that its end is on a vertical plane. Then, on top of the roofing sheet and on the vertical wall, an adjoining sheet is laid, which is fastened with roofing nails to a wooden lath, prepared in advance and fixed on the wall. The top of the canvas should be covered with a metal apron;
2. Fork. When choosing this method of mounting the junctions, the covering and junction sheets are attached to the rail, which is pre-installed in the base of the wall and roof. The junction of the canvases is covered with a metal apron.

Roof-to-pipe junction device

To connect the roof to the pipe, you must:

• prepare the surface;
• apply mastic with a roller or brush;
• lay geotextiles;
• On top of the geotextile is a second layer of mastic.

The composition of the mastic includes polyurethane - a material resistant to temperature changes (from -40 to +75 degrees). The service life of waterproofing mastic will be at least 20 years. Read also roofing mastic technologies.

The junction of the roof to the chimney goes a little differently:

• The crate near the pipe in the upper part must be laid horizontally;
• Then waterproofing is placed, moreover, one edge should go onto the pipe, and the other - under the roofing;
• In the places where the board or beam adjoins the pipe, it is necessary to lay a wooden triangular beam under the waterproofing layer;
• In those places where the waterproofing enters the pipe, its edges must be smeared with sealant, after which it must be closed with a metal strip;
• This wall plate is fastened with dowels to the pipe, or goes directly into the groove and is filled with sealant.

Roof junction to parapet

When the roof is connected to the parapet, it becomes necessary to carry out additional (reinforced) waterproofing, which is carried out in several stages:

• Initially, between the parapet and the roof, you need to arrange a board, the angle of which should be 45 degrees. It is better to make such a board from a solution of cement and sand, as this will make it easier to stick waterproofing rolls;
• If roofing material is used for waterproofing, then it must be glued directly to the base of the roof, to the parapet wall using bituminous mastic (hot).
• Next, be sure to let the mastic cool completely.
• After the mastic has completely cooled down, you can glue the next waterproofing layer. Moreover, the edge of the material at the top must be either inserted into the groove of the brickwork, or fastened with a metal bar, to which the apron (top) will subsequently be mounted;
• The attached plank must be attached to the wall with dowels, treated with sealant and painted.

In the event that the parapet is low enough, the roofing felt should be placed directly on the top of the bricks (parapet), after which it is glued to hot bitumen and covered with a metal apron or parapet slab.

The device for adjoining the roof to the parapet according to SNiP:

• At the junction of the roof to the parapet, the layers of the carpet must be laid using 3 layers of roofing material, the top layer of which has a scaly or coarse-grained dressing;
• Each of the layers of the waterproofing carpet must provide for the use of mastic with high heat resistance;
• In mastic roofs it is necessary to apply 3 layers of mastic reinforced with glass material;
• Protection for the upper layers of the waterproofing carpet will be galvanized steel or a parapet plate;
• Seams must be filled with sealant.

Roof junction device from corrugated board

• In those places where the sheets of corrugated board adjoin a vertical surface, an abutment bar should be installed;

  When mounting the adjoining plank to the wall, it is better not to use a construction gun, as the dowels are shot too hard, which will cause the material to bend.

• It is important to fix the ridge elements in their upper part with self-tapping screws;
  To achieve the desired effect of the junction device, use a drill, it is also much more convenient to screw in the screws with a screwdriver.
• After screwing in the screws, be sure to remove the metal shavings, as it gives rust. It is better to use a brush with soft bristles.

The device for adjoining a roof from a metal tile includes:

• Internal apron, consisting of several abutment strips, which are mounted starting from the bottom walls of the pipe;
• A strobe is punched into which the edges of the slats are inserted. They must be sealed and attached to the crate using self-tapping screws;
• A tie is wound under the apron, which is necessary to improve the flow of water;
• Installation of a metal tile, the strips of which must be fastened together using rivets, or in the same way - self-tapping screws.

You can get acquainted with the manual for digging a roof with a metal profile.

The cost of a roof junction device

The cost of this type of roofing work includes:

• Roofing;
• The number of connections required.

On average, the cost of one connection will vary from 250 to 550 rubles. Carrying out this type of work on your own can be quite difficult, for this reason it is better to resort to the help of specialists who will draw up an estimate, perform work of any level of complexity and provide a guarantee for further operation.

Video

The video below shows how the roof is connected to vertical surfaces and pipes.

Many houses, especially multi-storey ones, are equipped with a special parapet on the roof. The height of such a structure may vary, but in any case it will dock with the roofing. In the article below, we will tell you what the device is for connecting a soft roof to parapets and what standards should be observed during installation.

The structure of the parapet

By design, the parapet is a low wall, equipped along the perimeter of the roof, which performs not only a protective function, but also serves as a decorative element. The parapet can be erected on both flat and pitched roofs. If the roof is flat, then it is completely enclosed by the wall of the parapet.

In the case of pitched roofs, the parapet will be visible from below as it sits above the eaves. Installation of a parapet made of galvanized steel or copper is carried out in order to protect the structure from the effects of wind and precipitation. As a rule, droppers are mounted on the parapet apron, which perform the function of draining water. Thanks to such devices, the parapet remains protected from moisture penetration.

In some cases, instead of metal aprons, concrete slabs are laid on the parapet of concrete blocks and bricks.

Rules for arranging a parapet node

In order to be able to finish the parapet with galvanized steel, strobes and niches are cut into it. After that, the sheets of metal are bent, giving them the desired profile, and their upper edges are brought into the prepared gutters. Alternatively, the apron can be made of black roofing steel, but in this case it will need to be covered on all sides with heated drying oil. As practice shows, the connection of the roof to the parapet in specially prepared niches makes the process more convenient and faster. Usually, one sheet of metal is not enough to organize a parapet assembly. Since the walls of the parapet are not always perfectly even, additional overlaps must be created to cover them with an apron. Temperature fluctuations, as well as rain and snow precipitation, also adversely affect the fasteners. As a result, the metal apron may lag behind the wall.

Using gutters, the junction of the roof to the parapet can be made as reliable as possible, observing the following rules:

• The height of the niche into which the edge of the apron is inserted must be at least 10 cm.
• If a strobe was made in the thickness of the parapet, then after installing the apron it must be filled with cement mortar to prevent the destruction of the entire wall due to rain.

Along the entire length of the parapet, wooden corks treated with an antiseptic composition are fixed every meter. Triangular bars are nailed to these plugs, on which a metal apron is then laid. The sheets are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm towards the drain.

The junction of a flat roof to the parapet must be covered with several layers of waterproofing. When using mastic, reinforcement should be provided. It is optimal to use geotextiles or materials with fiberglass. The insulation is laid with an overlap of 15 cm. Through the side, the first layer of material is pressed to a vertical plane, smearing it with mastic or emulsion. As soon as the first layer of mastic has cooled, another layer of insulation is laid. At the end, the resulting cake is attached to the roof with an apron.

Adjunction of parapet and soft roof

If a soft roll coating is used to cover the roof, then the junction of the roof to the parapet must be especially strongly waterproofed. For this purpose, the roofing material is brought onto a vertical wall during installation. At the same time, a special support element is provided at the junction of the planes.

It should be noted that if such a side is not provided, voids will form at the junction of the soft roof to the parapet, which will make the coating vulnerable to mechanical stress. In such a place, there is a high probability of damage and depressurization of the roofing.

Here are a few rules for arranging the adjoining of a roll roof to a parapet:

• It is possible to prevent damage to the soft roofing by laying a support edge in the form of a triangle with two 45º angles at the docking point. You can make it from a cement-sand mixture, or lay a wooden beam soaked in an antiseptic and flame retardant. Thus, a tight fit of the rolled material to the entire surface of the support and the parapet will be achieved.
• In cases where roofing felt is used as a waterproofing, it must be glued not only to the entire roof plane, but also to the parapet wall, inclusive of the supporting edge. For this, heated bitumen mastic is used. When the first layer of waterproofing has cooled down, it will be necessary to lay another layer of roofing material in the same way. During the construction of the parapet wall, a special gutter is arranged in it from the inside. During the arrangement of the junction, the edge of the soft roofing from the outside is brought into this gutter and fixed. Alternatively, the rolled material can be brought to the upper plane of the parapet wall.
• Provided that a strobe is made in the side, the roll coating that goes into it must be fixed to the wall with a metal bar and dowels. In this case, all joints and openings must be carefully sealed. After that, the area is covered with a layer of paint, which will protect the junction from rain. At the last stage, the parapet is covered with a metal apron, which can be fixed on the bar.
• If the roofing material will cover not only the wall, but also the upper plane of the parapet, then first of all it must be glued with molten bitumen, and then covered with concrete slabs or a metal apron.

Modern technologies make it possible to equip the joints between the roof and the parapet using special hydrophobic mastic compositions. The result is an absolutely sealed seamless coating.

parapet apron- one of the most important roofing elements, capable of high-quality and long-term protection of the protrudingparts of the building exposed to the damaging effects of precipitation. Standard parapet aprons - products made of galvanized steel sheet, having a P-shaped section. They are installed on roof parapets, fences, and other protruding sections of brick, concrete, foam block.

For the production of parapet aprons, sheets and rolls of galvanized steel are used, with a thickness of 0.45 - 1.2 mm. The determination of a particular thickness of the metal is made by the manufacturer's engineer on the basis of the calculation. For the calculation, it is necessary to determine the parameters (dimensions) of the apron, the type of substructure, etc.

The apron is fastened to a pre-installed subsystem consisting of crossbars installed with a step of no more than 600 mm.

VARIETY OF PARAPET APRONS

There are a wide variety of variants of aprons and basically it is selected for each object individually, based on the size, direction of the drain, and other parameters. The most common options for aprons are listed below.

"FP-1"	"FP-2"
"FP-3"	"FP-4"

DETERMINING THE SIZE OF THE APRON

The first important step in installing aprons is to measure. For many, this procedure may seem complicated, but it is not, and we will try to consider in detail the specifics of this procedure.

1) Determining the width of the sheltered area

Roof parapets have a certain width, basically equal to the thickness of the walls of the building. If the facades of the building are made using the technology of ventilated facades, then to determine the width of the covered part, it is necessary to sum up the width of the concrete part of the parapet and the width of the protruding facade system with cladding.

If the facades are made using the “wet facade” technology, then the thickness of the facade pie must be added to the width of the concrete parapet (insulation, plaster, finishing coating). For walls of open walls (without insulation and cladding), the width of the sheltered area is the net width of the parapet.

2) Determination of the dimensions of the side shelves (drains)

After determining the width of the sheltered area, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the apron drains (side shelves). The size of the side shelves of the apron is determined individually, based on the wishes of the Customer and the selected subsystem option.

An important aspect of determining the lateral dimensions is to take into account the height of the future subsystem, the required slope. Basically, side shelves are made from 70 -120mm.

3) Determining the length of the product

The length of the product is determined based on the geometric parameters of the sheltered area (the number of straight sections, corners). The optimal length of one apron is 2500mm.

4) Number of items

For the correct calculation of the required number of aprons, it is necessary to measure the total perimeter of the sheltered area. In the resulting size, it is necessary to take into account the overlap of products, the optimal overlap of one apron on another is 25-40mm.

So, in order to calculate the final width of the product, you need to take the width of the covered area, add 50 - 70 mm. (width margin for the frame) and add 10 mm to the slope (difference). The slope should mainly go towards the roof, an acceptable difference is 30-40mm.

INSTALLATION OF PARAPET APRONS

There are several options for installing covering elements on parapets.

• Direct fastening to concrete (brick base)
• Fastening to a load-bearing substructure

The choice of installation option is made by engineers based on the needs of the customer and site parameters.

Consider in more detail the option of installing aprons on a subsystem (frame):

The frame can be of various designs and types, mainly bearing brackets and corners made of galvanized steel are used to assemble the subsystem. The frame allows you to perfectly level the sheltered area, to give the necessary slope to the structure.

In the above unit for installing parapet aprons, the design of the subsystem consists of several constituent elements:

• Bearing bracket 50 mm (facade)
• L-shaped guide 40x40mm made of galvanized steel.
• Bracket Anchor
• Rivets
• Roofing screws

The period of installation of brackets and guides should be 400-600mm. This allows you to firmly fix the apron of the parapet.

DECORATIVE SOLUTIONS

Galvanized parapet aprons have special coatings, which are an additional protective layer, and also give color to products. There are several basic protective and decorative coatings:

• POLYESTER (PE)
• MATTE POLYESTER (MPE)
• PURAL (PU)
• PLASTISOL (PVS)
• POWDER PAINT

Factory galvanized steel sheets have several standard colors, they are listed below.

Products that need to be given a shade different from the factory color are painted with powder paint according to

PARAPET APRON PRICES

The prices shown are inclusive of VAT 18%

The parapet is an integral part of the roof of many houses, complementing their design. It has a certain height, which can be different depending on the situation. At the junction of this protective border with the roof, the roof adjoins the parapet, which must be carried out in accordance with all the rules.

Although the parapet is not one of the main parts of the house, it performs well the protective and aesthetic functions. This is a small wall that is arranged along the perimeter of the roof and looks like a building envelope. This design works on both pitched and flat roofs. In the first case, the parapet is built above the cornice and it is clearly visible from below. In the second case, a small barrier completely closes the roof from view. So that atmospheric precipitation and air currents do not destroy the parapet, this elevation is covered with an apron, which can be made of galvanized or copper sheet metal. Structurally, it is equipped with special drippers, with the help of which water is diverted from the building. Droppers prevent water from entering the protected areas of the parapet.

There are options for brick or concrete parapets covered not with metal aprons, but with concrete slabs.

Principles of joining the roof to the parapet

In order for aprons made of galvanized metal sheets to be securely attached to the fence, strobes and niches are created in the design of the parapet. The upper edges of the aprons are inserted into these grooves, which are metal sheets bent into profile products. Aprons can also be used from black steel for roofing, but it must be painted on all sides using heated drying oil. Niches and strobes are provided for the adjoining device by construction necessity. It is known from practice that a single roofing sheet is not enough. This is due to the fact that the vertical sections are not always even. In addition, the fastening is negatively affected by unstable temperature conditions and precipitation. In connection with these negative phenomena, the apron may not fit snugly against the curb. With the help of grooves, these problems are solved.

• When the edge of a sheet made of a particular material is inserted into a niche, its height must be at least 0.1 m.
• In the case of using a strobe for installing an apron, the latter is sealed with a cement-sand mortar, which protects the structure from precipitation.

At a distance of 1 m from each other along the length of the parapet, wooden plugs impregnated with an antiseptic are installed. Bars with a triangular cross-section are fixed to the corks. From above, this design is covered with an apron.

• Laying fragments of the apron is done to the side into which precipitation will flow, while the overlap should be at least 0.1 m.
• If the roof is flat, then its joint with the fence is covered with waterproofing in several layers. Mastic waterproofing needs reinforcement. Geotextiles or glass-based materials are best suited for these purposes. During installation, an overlap of 0.15 m is arranged. The material is pressed against a vertical surface through an additional side. Then the resulting structure is smeared with an emulsion or mastic. After the fastener has cooled down, the second layer is laid on the first layer. So that the “layer cake” does not slip, it is fixed with a metal apron, which, among other things, performs a protective function. The drawing demonstrates well how the adjunction of mating surfaces is arranged.

Connecting device with soft roof

When installing a roll-type roof adjoining to the parapet, special attention must be paid to waterproofing - it must be reinforced. When installing roofing, the material must be wound onto a vertical wall. When laying the material, a special support must be present at the junction of the surfaces.

In the absence of an auxiliary rim, a vulnerable cavity is formed at the junction of the surfaces of the roof and the parapet. In this place, the flooring under mechanical action can be easily damaged, resulting in depressurization of the coating.

• In order to avoid problems associated with damage to the roofing material, the joint between the surface of the roof and the parapet is laid with a supporting edge, which has 2 angles of 45º in cross section. Its device is carried out from a mixture based on cement and sand. Instead of this support, a wooden block impregnated with a bio- and fire retardant can be placed, which in cross section has the form of an isosceles triangle. Thanks to this side, the coating material will adhere tightly to the entire adjacent surface.
• If the waterproofing material is roofing material, then using hot bituminous mastic, the rolled material must be glued to the entire surface of the roof, starting from its base and ending with the parapet wall, including the side. After some time, the operation must be repeated, covering the roof with a second layer of roofing material. During the construction of the parapet, a special groove is arranged in its inner surface. When two surfaces are joined, the edge of the roofing material is inserted into the groove from the outside. A junction node is possible with the installation of a roofing material on the upper section of the parapet.
• If the edge of the roofing strip goes into the strobe, the material must be fixed with a metal bar, which will press the roofing material against the wall with dowels. This part and joint are sealed with sealant. The next layer will be paint that protects the structure from precipitation. At the end, a metal apron is put on the parapet, which can be attached to the bar.
• In the option with the introduction of roofing material on top of the parapet, the roofing material is first fixed with heated bitumen, and then covered with an apron or slabs.

Techniques exist to perform the abutment of these surfaces using mastic agents having hydrophobic characteristics. With this treatment, the coating is created without seams, and the abutment is reliably sealed.

Video

Installing the junction to the parapet, if a ventilated facade is made: