No matter how large your private house is, sometimes you need to add one more room to it. The purpose of the new room can be different: inside they equip a bedroom, a pantry, a gym, a veranda, a dining room, even a bathhouse or a garage. The best option in this case is an extension to the house from the frame. The structure is placed on the foundation, a kind of frame “skeleton” is made, on which the walls of OSB-plates, insulation and waterproofing are “put on”. The extension to the house is equipped with a floor and a separate roof, sometimes windows and always a door.
Before starting the construction of a frame extension to the house, decide on its location. On the north or east side, it is advisable to place a pantry or utility room, on the south or west - a bedroom or living room (then there will be a lot of light in the room, during the day the sun will warm the frame extension, so you will save on heating).
If the extension will have a bedroom or living room, then make it on the south side - so you can save a little on heating
Now sketch out a house plan with a new room on a piece of paper, indicate the exact dimensions of the building and the materials that will be used in the construction.
This plan must be submitted to the technical inventory bureau of your locality. Of course, not all homeowners run to the BTI in order to organize a frame extension. But in vain! If checked, the illegal building will most likely be ordered to be demolished. Do you need such problems?
As practice shows, BTI specialists will not create obstacles and will quickly approve the project (maximum within 10 working days).
Permission from the BTI for an extension to the house will be issued within 10 days. Provided that the application meets all the established requirements, and the construction meets the technical standards
Tools and materials for creating a frame extension to the house
Permission from BTI received. Now you need to prepare tools and materials for construction. You will need:
- cement mortar;
- wooden boards;
- sand;
- small pebbles;
- OSB boards;
- insulation;
- waterproofing;
- putty;
- paint for OSB-plates;
- roofing material;
- wooden or metal door (at the request of the owner);
- a window in a plastic or wooden frame (if necessary);
- linoleum, ceramic tiles or laminate flooring;
- perforator;
- construction mixer;
- rollers and brushes;
- nails and screws;
- mounting foam;
- construction stapler;
- shovel;
- metal pipes with a diameter of 15-20 cm, a length of 2.7-3 m.
Cement mortar is sold in packages of 25 kilograms each. Terms of use are indicated on the product packaging. Price - 700 to 2 thousand rubles, some of the best manufacturers are Silka, Maxsil, Mapey.
The base of the extension must be strong and stable, so choose quality cement for the foundation, not a cheap mixture
Wooden boards will be needed first to create the foundation formwork. Then they can be covered with a cement-filled floor to insulate and soften it. For such purposes, spruce, pine, oak are best suited. The thickness of the board is at least 5 millimeters. Choose the length depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe frame extension to the house.
Choose OSB with a thickness of at least 7 millimeters with dimensions of 100 × 100 centimeters. The plate itself should be smooth and uniform. This indicates the high quality of the product.
As a heater, you can use mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. The first option is cheap, but the material quickly becomes unusable. Expanded polystyrene has a long service life (up to 20 years). It is sold in the form of plates, the dimensions of one are 200 × 100 centimeters.
Choose products from 10 millimeters thick from the companies: Penoplex, Extrol, TechnoNikol.
Expanded polystyrene for warming an extension to the house is preferable to mineral wool. It does not absorb liquid, is not afraid of temperature changes
Waterproofing is a must. As such, you can use a polymer roll material. Thickness - at least 5 millimeters.
The price per square meter is about 500 rubles. Among firms, users recommend giving preference to the following: Bolars, Penetron, Polylen, Zubr.
Putty and paint are needed for exterior and interior decoration. You can learn more about the choice of paint.
On the roof you can put a metal tile. It is a durable and weather-resistant material that will last a long time, besides, it looks stylish and is inexpensive.
For a square meter you will pay 200-400 rubles. The thickness of the tile must be at least 5 millimeters.
Important: the easiest way is to create a frame extension to the house using OSB. Such a room will be warm and durable if it is properly insulated. Of course, you can build walls from bricks, foam blocks or wooden beams. But it is much more expensive and energy-intensive.
The drawings below will help determine the type of room:
With the help of such a drawing, you can create a simple extension to the house with a pitched roof. Use your own sizes
Such a drawing of an extension to the house will help to simply and quickly build an additional room or, for example, a pantry.
By stages: stages of building construction
The process of erecting a frame extension to a wooden house can be divided into several stages:
- building a foundation;
- floor filling;
- erection of a frame for an extension;
- wall production;
- roof laying;
- installation of windows, doors;
- exterior finish;
- interior decoration.
Work must be carried out consistently, following the instructions and safety precautions. For some "activities" (installing windows, laying the roof), it is advisable to involve an assistant.
Strong foundation: pour the foundation
To create a frame extension to the house, it is necessary to fill in the strip foundation. But if the site has a high level of groundwater, then it is more correct to make a pile or columnar foundation.
The instructions for erecting a strip foundation are as follows:
- Mark up and dig a trench 30 centimeters deep and 20 cm wide. The result should be a rectangle or square.
- Fill the trench first with sand, then with stones exactly half for strength.
- Insert metal pipes at the corners of the trench. They will serve as the basis for the future frame.
- Build the formwork for the foundation from the boards and fill the trench with cement mortar, prepared strictly according to the instructions.
- Leave the design for 24 hours until completely dry.
- Then fill the floor with cement mortar. It will dry completely in a day or two, depending on weather conditions. The warmer it is outside, the faster the cement hardens.
You will learn how to make a strip foundation from the video.
If you need a column or pile foundation, watch the following videos. They will talk about the rules for the construction of such foundations.
Strong "skeleton": we put the frame
The future building already has iron pipes in the corners. Between them, horizontally from the floor to the end of the pipe, other metal pipes are welded. The distance between parallel parts is at least 70 centimeters. You can “connect” the corner iron parts to each other using wooden boards. They will also serve as a frame.
Important: if the distance between the corner tubes is more than 1 meter, then in the middle you can put another vertical pipe or board to give the frame strength and reliability.
How to make a frame for an extension to the house, see the video.
Construction "sandwich": building walls
Now, in the process of building an extension from a frame to a wooden house, the most difficult and interesting thing begins with your own hands: the construction of walls. One camp is already there - it is part of the house. There are three more to do:
- attach the OSB to the frame with nails. Between them there should not be large gaps of more than 3 millimeters.
- On the inside of the OSB-plate, fix the waterproofing with a construction stapler. The material should cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls - from top to bottom.
- Attach the insulation to the waterproofing with mounting foam. The work is not difficult. It is quite possible to deal with it alone. Do not apply too thick a layer of foam and press the insulation board firmly against the OSB wall.
- Place OSB boards on the insulation. Attach them with screws.
- Attach waterproofing to the existing wall of the house, and OSB on top.
- If there are gaps between the plates themselves or the floor, fill them with mounting foam.
Builders call this construction a “sandwich”. It is built quickly and simply, but practical in operation, reliable and durable.
If you need to install windows and doors, consider them before you start installing the walls. In OSB-plates, it will be necessary to pre-cut holes of the desired size.
You will learn more about the plates themselves from the video:
Serious protection: without a roof - nothing
The roof for a frame extension to the house can be made shed or. In any case, its creation involves the following steps:
- We build a base from wooden boards.
- We put a heater on top.
- We put waterproofing on the insulation.
- From above we fasten the metal tile with an overlap. In this case, moisture from precipitation will not accumulate under the tiles.
The shed roof of the extension to the house, as it were, continues the existing roof. It's pretty easy to build. It is enough to put wooden slats of the desired length on the main roof
To be beautiful: interior and exterior decoration
The construction of the frame extension to the house is not completed until the interior and exterior decoration has been completed.
The best option for OSB boards is painting.
First prepare the surface:
- sanding is performed;
- antiseptics are applied (good quality for "Tixo", "Drevolak");
- primer treatment ("Body", "Tex").
Then the board is painted. Use alkyd, oil, water-based, acrylic, latex paints. For external and internal work, different products are used. Information on which surfaces a particular dye can be used is indicated on the packaging.
You can find out more about painting OSB.
Interior finishing also includes flooring. Waterproofing is placed on the cement screed, then insulation and wooden boards (this step can be skipped if you put laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles on the insulation).
What's next?
It would seem that the frame extension to the house is ready. But putting it into operation is not yet possible - first you need to conduct electrical wiring in the room, install heating radiators and connect them to the common heating system of a private house.
You will learn how to wire.
Read about the heating system.
To make it cozy in the extension to the house at any time of the year, run the wiring inside, install heating radiators
Finally
In order for the frame extension to the house to be strong and safe, strictly follow the basic rules when building private houses in general and creating extensions in particular. Do not forget about the basic safety requirements at the construction site. Protect your hands and eyes, work in special clothing and sturdy shoes.
The easiest option for creating an extension from a frame for a house is OSB-plate. It is quite light, but fully copes with its "professional duties".
There is an opinion that using OSB is unsafe for health - products are impregnated with a mixture of phenol for strength. However, when painting and priming, phenol is stopped and not released, so OSB does not harm health.
The issue of thermal insulation of the veranda using becomes relevant when there is a desire to use this room all year round. The verandas are usually unheated, as a result of which the temperature in them can drop below zero in winter.
If you want to ensure a comfortable air temperature inside the veranda even in the coldest season, you need to take care of the quality insulation of the extension.
With complex thermal insulation using proven materials, and installing an elementary heating device: a small solid fuel stove or a good electric radiator, it is possible to ensure a constant temperature in the veranda at +18+19 degrees.
1 Carrying out work from the inside
It’s worth mentioning right away that since the construction of a veranda, as a rule, is a budget project, as a result of which it is built from inexpensive materials - wood, cinder blocks, or gas silicate blocks, it will be necessary to insulate the veranda comprehensively.
You can, of course, insulate only the walls and even make or ceiling, but you will not get the desired effect from such thermal insulation.
To make a full-fledged year-round living space out of the veranda, it is necessary to insulate both the surface of the walls from the outside and the ceiling, walls and floor from the inside of the building.
1.1 What is the best way to insulate?
If savings are at the head of the insulation project, then ordinary foam can be used as a heat-insulating material. This material has good thermal conductivity, and is inexpensive.
It is also easy to work with foam plastic, even one person can handle it without problems, so if you plan to do everything yourself, foam plastic is a good option from inexpensive heaters.
The thermal conductivity of the foam is approximately 0.04 W / mK per , which, of course, is less than that of mineral wool, or extruded polystyrene foam, but also quite good, given the cost of this material.
For insulation of walls, ceiling and floor, you can take foam plastic 5 centimeters thick - in most cases it will be enough.
Expanded polystyrene wins not only in terms of thermal insulation properties. An important fact is that this material has minimal vapor permeability and hydrophobicity, as a result of which condensation will not form on its surface, which is the main enemy of most heaters.
The advantages of expanded polystyrene can also include ease of installation - this insulation is made in the form of plates with dimensions of 100 * 160 cm, for the installation of which in most cases only an adhesive solution is sufficient.
2.1 Do-it-yourself veranda insulation technology (video)
In a harsh climate, the owners are trying in every possible way to insulate the house or cottage. For example, to protect the front door put a veranda. This is a kind of vestibule where cold outdoor air and warm air from the interior are mixed. But, when insulating the house, they do not always take into account that additional insulation will not interfere with the veranda. Otherwise, the unheated room will freeze and damp, which will quickly make the finish unusable. With a competent approach, the veranda is insulated even at the construction stage. But it happens that the house was not built, but bought, and not in the best possible way. In this case, the insulation of the veranda from the inside with their own hands is carried out as necessary. The main thing is to know in what places the cold "creeps" into the room, and to take all possible protective measures.
Usually the veranda is placed on the same type of foundation as the main building - monolithic concrete or concrete slabs. This material does not at all block the cold that comes from the ground in winter, therefore it is able to freeze through. Heat loss through the foundation reaches 20%.
There may be several options for insulating the base of the summer veranda.
Backfilling the interior space with earth or expanded clay
These options are possible only at the stage of the construction of the veranda, when foundation work is underway. After removing the formwork, the entire inner platform is covered with earth or expanded clay. Land will be cheap, especially if there is a lot of excess soil left during construction. True, its quality of heat saving is low.
Expanded clay layer prevents moisture and frost from drooping into the concrete slab
Expanded clay has higher thermal insulation, but it will have to be bought. You can make a double layer: first fill the soil, and the second half with expanded clay pebbles.
Pasting with polystyrene foam
For Russian lands, where 80% of the soils are heaving, external insulation of the foundation with polystyrene foam is necessary. When thawing and freezing, such soils expand in volume and can deform the foundation. The insulation layer will become an insulator, which will save the base from direct contact with the ground, and also blockade the frost. Expanded polystyrene boards paste over the entire outer surface of concrete, including the base.
Do-it-yourself veranda insulation is suitable for: polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and liquid polyurethane foam. All these are varieties of polystyrene, which differ in properties and method of application. The cheapest one - Styrofoam. It retains heat well, but will crack on moving soils. In addition, the foam pulls moisture from the ground, so when it is installed, an additional waterproofing layer is created (from the soil). Extruded polystyrene foam due to the dense structure, it does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of soil movements, has high frost resistance and lasts more than half a century. But it costs a lot.
Before gluing polystyrene foam, it is necessary to cover the entire foundation with waterproofing mastic
Both versions of polystyrene are laid on the outside of the foundation, excavating it to the very foundation. In this case, the first row is placed on gravel bedding. Before laying, the foundation is coated with bitumen-polymer mastic (for waterproofing), and when it dries, expanded polystyrene plates are glued. The adhesive must be polyurethane. It is applied in dots or by lubricating the entire sheet. The joints between the plates are also taken with glue so that there are no cold bridges and cracks for moisture to penetrate.
The latest way of external insulation - polyurethane foam coating. It is brought to the construction site in the form of liquid components and sprayed onto the foundation with special equipment. After curing, the coating becomes dense, monolithic and very durable. According to the characteristics, this material is not inferior to the extruded "brother", but the cost of work is more expensive.
With sprayed insulation, the best quality of thermal insulation, because there are no joints
To keep your feet warm: floor insulation
In addition to the foundation, the floor is closest to the ground. Its insulation is mandatory if you do not want to see black spots of dampness in the corners.
Most often, concrete floors are poured on the verandas. If you plan to heat the veranda using the "warm floor" system, then you should take care of it already at the stage of pouring the subfloors. It is better to choose an electrical system that you will turn on as needed. The water floor can freeze at very low temperatures, and you will have to wait for spring to thaw it, or dismantle the coating to warm up the pipes.
If there was an old tile on the veranda, then you can put insulation directly on it
Consider how you can insulate the floor on an unheated veranda:
- The entire underground is covered with rubble, and from above - with sand and compacted tightly.
- Lay out reinforcing bars or mesh (so that the concrete does not burst) and make a concrete screed 5 cm thick.
- When the fill is tired, we create waterproofing. The easiest way is to coat the screed with water-repellent mastic. But it's cheaper - to lay sheets of roofing material and fasten them together using bituminous mastic (or warm it up with a burner and roll it).
- Logs impregnated with an antiseptic are mounted on top of the waterproofing, and insulation is laid between them. The best option is mineral wool with a foil side. The foil does not release infrared radiation from the veranda, with which most of the heat escapes. Rolls of insulation are placed after all the logs are installed.
- You can also insulate with polystyrene foam. Then the joints between the plates must be blown out with mounting foam, and when it dries, cut off the excess.
After that, boards or decking are laid, because both materials are warm. The board must be treated in every way from decay and painted with a protective compound. In addition, natural wood is very afraid of poor ventilation. To avoid dampness, it is necessary to make ventilation vents in the foundation, which should be located below the floor level.
The insulation is placed with the foil up so that it reflects the heat back into the veranda.
Decking does not require underground ventilation, because it is not afraid of dampness and temperature changes
Decking is also a board, but already processed with compounds at the factory. It is made from larch, which is not afraid of frost or moisture. Open terraces are lined with such material, so it is all the more suitable for a veranda. True, the cost of such a floor will be expensive.
We put thermal protection for the walls
The walls have a large area of contact with the street, so consider how to insulate the veranda with your own hands from the outside and from the inside. Outside, insulation is carried out if the material of the walls looks unpresentable. Those. it can be blocks, old wood, etc.
External insulation
a) For wooden walls:
- We close all the cracks in the building.
- We fill a vertical crate of bars on a tree in increments of up to half a meter. It is better to measure the width of the insulation and fill it exactly to its size. Then all the plates will fit tightly to the crate.
- We insert mineral wool between the bars, fixing with dowel-umbrellas.
- We fix the waterproofing film on top with a stapler.
- We finish with clapboard or siding.
After laying the mineral wool, it is necessary to attach a waterproofing film to the crate with a stapler
b) For block walls:
- We glue polystyrene foam plates on the walls with a special adhesive composition, additionally strengthening with dowel-umbrellas.
- We coat the same glue on the top of the plates and fix the reinforcing mesh on them.
- After drying, we cover the walls with decorative plaster.
- We paint.
Choose an adhesive composition specifically for laying polystyrene foam boards
All layers of the insulation cake are hidden under decorative plaster
We warm ourselves from the inside
If the veranda looks aesthetically pleasing from the outside, and you do not want to change its appearance, then internal insulation can be carried out. But, before insulating the veranda from the inside, it is necessary to carefully caulk all the cracks (in a wooden building).
Work progress:
- They are stuffing the crate.
- A waterproofing film is fixed with a stapler, which will not let moisture from the street into the insulation.
- A metal frame is mounted from profiles, on which drywall is then fixed.
- Fill the frame with mineral wool.
- Cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film.
- Install drywall.
- Apply a finishing coat (putty, paint).
The distance between the metal profiles must match the width of the insulation sheets
We check the tightness of the installation of windows, doors
Large heat losses can come from windows and doors. If there are old wooden windows on your veranda, but you do not want to change them to double-glazed windows, then you need to thoroughly check their tightness:
- First of all, we pay attention to the quality of the glazing of the veranda: for this, we pull each glazing bead.
- If they are cracked or loose, then it is better to remove all the glasses, clean the grooves and coat them with silicone sealant.
- Then we insert the glass back and apply sealant along the edge.
- We press with glazing beads (new!).
Walk with an ordinary metal ruler at the joints of the frame and the window opening. If in some places it passes freely, then these slots must be sealed with mounting foam. Check the front door the same way. If you bought a non-insulated version, then you will have to insulate the canvas yourself from the inside and upholster it with leatherette.
By fixing the glass on both sides with sealant, you will make it impermeable to the wind
All places where the ruler moves freely must be foamed
We exclude the leakage of warm air through the ceiling
It remains to figure out how to insulate the ceiling, because through it a significant part of the heat escapes from the wooden veranda. Especially if the front door opens. A stream of cold air rushing inward instantly squeezes out warm air.
The best option is to lay a foil foamed polymer between the beams, which will simultaneously keep heat and prevent moisture from passing through.
You can also choose mineral wool, but then the roofing material for vapor barrier is placed as the first layer, and insulation boards are placed on it.
Roofing material is laid under mineral wool for waterproofing
After such thorough insulation, your veranda will withstand any frost, even if it is unheated.
It is difficult to imagine a country cottage or cottage without a veranda. Basically, such a building is used only in the warm season. But often, in order to increase the usable area and operate the premises in winter, they perform the insulation of the veranda,. We will tell you how to implement it correctly and at minimal cost in this article.
Warming methods
How to make a veranda suitable for winter living? It is desirable to think over the possibilities of thermal insulation at the beginning of construction, since after completion of work, labor costs and financial investments increase several times.
Insulation of the veranda involves the installation of insulation on the floor, walls, ceiling. However, due to the influence of the atmospheric environment, not all types of materials are suitable for solving this problem.
The best option is roll and slab heaters based on natural minerals. They are quite air and vapor permeable, which contributes to the free removal of moisture and protects the wood from rotting and damage.
Less preferred for the veranda are artificial polyurethane foam insulation, which have low vapor permeability. These materials are more often used for external insulation, the plates are mounted on a pre-installed timber frame.
Starting from the floor
It is much easier to carry out measures for warming the veranda during the construction phase. As a rule, such structures are made using frame technology. This facilitates the process of laying insulation in walls, floors and upper floors.
The first stage of preparing the structure for winter living is the insulation of the floor on the veranda. After the foundation has been erected, a lower trim of a bar with a section of 150x150 mm is installed on the supports and the crate is mounted. Before insulating the floor on the veranda, the tree is treated with a protective compound.
Next, the so-called draft floor of the veranda from edged or unedged boards 25 mm thick is attached to the floor beam. In the presence of a subfloor, this problem is solved relatively easily. In the absence of the necessary space under the floor of the veranda, 30x30 bars are attached to the side planes of the ceiling in the lower part, on which the subfloor is mounted.
On top of the fixed boards, an insulating material and a layer of vapor barrier are installed. Since the lion's share of heat loss occurs through the floor, 2-3 layers of insulation are laid on the lower floor, alternating directions at an angle of 90 °.
Instead of slab or roll insulation, solid materials are used, for example, expanded clay is poured between the beams. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top and the floor is finished.
We insulate the walls
The next step in warming the veranda is wall insulation. Vertical bars are attached along the perimeter of the floor and fixed with the help of jibs and transverse horizontal inserts. Outside, the walls are sheathed with a finishing material of one kind or another, after laying a vapor barrier.
Between the vertical posts, a heater is mounted in at least two layers.
As a rule, the thickness of the material allows you to not fix it additionally. It is enough to cut pieces of mineral wool 3-4 cm wider than the opening into which installation is planned.
After the vertical surfaces are insulated, the final layer of vapor barrier is sewn on and the interior walls are finished.
We work with the ceiling
It is impossible to qualitatively insulate the veranda from the inside, bypassing the ceiling. The upper frame is assembled in the same way as the lower floor, that is, from square wooden beams. In the case of sequential work, the ceiling is insulated before the installation of the roof. To do this, on the underside of the floor bars, a finishing sheathing of the surface is performed with a preliminary installation of a vapor barrier.
A heater is mounted on the finish in several layers and covered with a draft ceiling. If the veranda does not imply the presence of a separate roof with an attic, a crate is attached over the sheathing and the roof is installed.
Insulation of the finished veranda
It is much more difficult to carry out thermal insulation of a building erected several years ago. In this case, it is desirable to minimize dismantling work that can damage the previously installed finishing material of walls, floors and ceilings. Let us consider in more detail the nuances of warming the finished veranda.
Ceiling
If it becomes necessary to rebuild the premises for winter living, the installation of insulation begins with the dismantling of the interior decoration of the ceiling. The operation is carried out carefully to minimize the amount of waste. As a rule, in wooden houses, when decorating verandas, expensive material is used - lining.
After all the panels have been removed from the upper horizontal ceiling, the installation of the insulation begins. To prevent the fallout of mineral plates, proceed as follows:
Walls
As a rule, the insulation of the finished veranda is performed from the outside. This allows you to save expensive interior decoration. After dismantling the outer wall sheathing, a vapor barrier is installed: the film is fixed in the gaps between the uprights using a construction stapler.
Insulation of the veranda from the outside
Instead of mineral wool, foam plastic is used for external wall insulation, which is resistant to weathering and is not afraid of the influence of microorganisms. The insulation of the veranda with foam plastic is carried out in a pre-mounted crate, which provides free air circulation.
Particular attention is paid to windows. It is better to install two- or three-chamber double-glazed windows.
If the windows for the veranda have single glass, all joints are treated with a special adhesive-based insulation, and the frame landing sites are coated with sealant.
Floor
A large amount of cold air enters the room through the floor. Without high-quality thermal insulation, winter operation of the veranda is impossible, while heating costs increase several times.
We begin work on laying insulation with the dismantling of the floor covering. can be attached in several ways:
If there is a rough sheathing, a vapor barrier membrane is attached and expanded clay or mineral wool is laid. With a standard thickness of mats or rolls of 50 mm, it is recommended to lay 3 layers between a 150x150 beam. On the upper planes of the beams, a vapor barrier is fixed and the floor boards are mounted in their original place.
If there is no draft floor, a false lattice is made of a 30x30 pine beam, attaching it to the side planes of the beams with 70x4 mm self-tapping screws.
Thus, having studied the technology of warming the veranda, even a novice master will be able to independently perform all the work. Of course, it is better to insulate the room at the construction stage. But in extreme cases, you can make the insulation of the finished veranda, spending an additional amount of effort, time and finances.
Country houses are in fashion today. Someone is a happy owner of a summer house, and many even prefer to live away from the bustle of the city. Of course, everyone strives to make their homes more comfortable and beautiful, so they decorate them with verandas and terraces. These extensions must be distinguished. If you do not go into the essence, then the terrace is an open area without walls, and the veranda is part of the house, but, as a rule, without heating.
In summer, such rooms are good for various gatherings, but with the onset of the cold season, they are no longer used. However, you can not deny yourself and your loved ones in the usual pastime. Warming the veranda will help keep it cozy at any time of the year. Of course, it is best to think about this at the construction stage, but even in a finished purchased house or in a veranda attached later, you can correct the situation.
So, it makes no sense to insulate the terrace, but you can take care of the comfort on the veranda. As a rule, insulation is a set of measures aimed at improving the heat-saving properties of walls, windows, ceilings, but you need to start from the floor, because the cold rises from below.
The procedure will depend on how the floor is made, which can be concrete, laid on a solid foundation, as well as wooden on supports.
Bottom insulation
Floor insulation on a concrete base
- When making a concrete foundation for a future veranda, you need to start working with backfill sand and gravel cushion. River sand (or another, the main thing is not to be fine and without clay impurities) is poured into the foundation pit and rammed. Then comes a layer of crushed stone or gravel, which also needs to be compacted.
Such a cushion will not let the cold coming from below to the concrete slab, and will protect it from capillary moisture, which can rise through channels less than 0.5 mm wide. The thickness of the layers of sand and stone depends on the type of soil and structures being built. - Over stone for greater reliability laying reinforcing mesh from rods with a cross section of 10-12 mm and pour the foundation with a solution based on frost-resistant concrete.
- Concrete is covered with a layer of waterproofing: roofing felt or similar material, and on top is laid insulation layer. For example, you can take mineral wool boards.
- The heater, in turn, is also covered a layer of waterproofing film, and already on top of all this “pie” reinforced concrete slabs are laid or a reinforced screed is made.
Such a foundation will be a good obstacle to the cold rising from the ground, and will also protect the veranda from dampness. In addition, the concrete floor allows you to take additional measures for insulation.
Floor insulation on supports or piles
With this type of foundation, the floor is usually made of wood. Air circulates under it, so it will be very cold on the veranda in winter.
- Warming begins with measures to block access to cold air under the veranda. To do this, along the perimeter of the floor, marked with supports, you need to build a formwork.
- The second step is backfilling the resulting underground with expanded clay. On top of it, you can lay a film for vapor barrier and additionally lay insulation. Of course, before such actions, you will need to remove the existing floor.
basement insulation
External insulation of the foundation is another way to save the heat of the veranda. In addition, the soil, expanding or decreasing in volume under the influence of air temperature, can deform the foundation. Such a problem is solved quite simply, by gluing the base around the entire perimeter with a heater. Usually these are expanded polystyrene plates, which will become an obstacle to the cold, and also prevent contact with the ground.
A less budgetary, but more reliable option would be to use extruded polystyrene foam, which has the necessary strength, is not afraid of moisture and cold, and its service life is more than 50 years. Before gluing the insulation boards, the foundation is smeared with bitumen or bitumen-polymer mastic, which is not afraid of low temperatures.
There is another option to insulate the basement, the newest, expensive, but also reliable. This is a polyurethane foam coating. The liquid base is sprayed with special equipment on the walls, and after drying, the foam becomes solid, monolithic, without a single seam.
Top insulation
Such methods are good when you can’t get to the bottom of the foundation, but you still want to make the floor warm. However, even with an insulated foundation, thermal insulation measures will also not be superfluous. The main feature of all work with the finished floor is raising its level, which occurs due to the laying of various heat-insulating materials.
concrete floor insulation
Underfloor heating system
Since the veranda is not heated, this solution will be ideal for maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room. Moreover, an electrical system is recommended, and not a water one, since the cable is not afraid of frost, which cannot be said about pipes with water.
A rather time-consuming, but reliable option that requires the use of durable insulating material in the form of plates or mats. It can be expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
Wood floors can be very beautiful, and it is often customary to decorate country houses with just such coatings. Wooden floors can be laid on any base, taking care of the insulation at the same time.
One of the insulation options is sprayed materials. This is quite expensive and requires the work to be carried out by specialists using special equipment. The use of such a heater will require cleaning the floor from debris, bitumen drips, grease stains and solvents. It is not necessary to lay transverse bars between the lags - the future spraying forms a fairly dense heat-insulating layer. The foam is applied with a special device that mixes a special liquid composition with carbon dioxide and sprays it under pressure.
The crate filled with insulation must be covered with another layer of film or penofol, a relatively new material, which is polyethylene foam on an aluminized substrate. It is laid with the substrate up and slightly crumpled into the cells so that there is space for floor ventilation.
Now you can lay the boards treated with an antiseptic on top, attaching them with self-tapping screws. The boards are located perpendicular to the lags, but instead of them, if desired, plywood or GVL sheets are laid, and only then - the finish coating.
Wooden floor insulation
There is an opinion that it is easier to insulate a wooden floor than a concrete one, but this is not entirely true. Of course, you don’t have to do a screed, but you still need to work hard.
Infrared warm floor
This is an alternative to the electrical cable, which is embedded in the screed layer and is therefore not suitable for wooden floors. The only requirement that must be observed for laying such a system is the non-toxicity of the floor materials when heated, but in all other respects this is a good option for maintaining heat on the veranda.
This method is the main one for warming wooden floors. In terms of the sequence of actions, it is similar to the previously described one, only the foundation is prepared differently.
In addition to all the methods described earlier, you can use the flooring of special types of linoleum or laminate, which are able to retain heat, as well as carpet.
Warming the floor on the veranda is the best thing to do in the process of building this extension, but with a special desire, you can start work at any time. It cannot be said that the complex of actions is extremely simple and accessible to anyone. The mere ability to hold a hammer in your hands will not be enough to do the job, but those who are confident in their abilities and have a little, but still construction experience, may well do everything on their own.
The main thing is to choose the materials that are most suitable in terms of price and quality, because the success of any repair consists of two components: the skill of the workers and the quality of the tools and tools used.
