Podzimy sowing flowers. Planting flowers in the fall - what flowers can be sown before winter What flowers are suitable for winter sowing

When the entire crop has already been harvested, and there is not much work in the garden and vegetable garden, you can start winter sowing - an agricultural technique that allows you to get a small (10-12 days) run in the development of seedlings in the spring.

It is especially effective in places where the earth warms up slowly, as well as in arid regions, where plants sown before winter will be able to fully use the soil moisture. In addition, using this method, you can better distribute your strengths and capabilities, saving time for other spring work.

Cold-resistant vegetables and greens are chosen for sowing before winter: onions, rhubarb, sorrel, carrots, parsley, dill, coriander, borage, spinach, radishes, leaf mustard, some varieties of lettuce, as well as crops whose seeds quickly lose their germination capacity, for example parsnip, or requiring stratification (katran).

Medicinal herbs can also be sown: monarda, sage, chamomile, medicinal valerian, St. John's wort, yarrow. The smallest fraction can be planted on early greens onion sets, garlic bulbs, which will save the bulbs from drying out in winter.

Sow in late autumn and the seeds of some annual flowers, for example asters, calendulas, mignonettes, mattiolas, alyssums, lavatera, escholzia, annual asters, cornflower, as well as perennial flowers that need stratification: lavender, garden cyclamen, primrose, hellebore, delphinium, aquilegia, doronicum.

Crops such as alpine bellflower, hazel grouse, levisia, prolomnik, gentian, saxifrage during spring sowing often germinate only a year later, therefore, in order to obtain friendly seedlings, they are sown before winter.

Work begins when the air temperature approaches 0 ° C or drops a little lower (up to -1-2 ° C).

Seeds in the ground should have time to swell, but not germinate before the onset of winter. Sowing dates in different regions are individual (for the Non-Chernozem region, suitable weather, as a rule, is set in the beginning - middle, November). So that the seeds do not freeze in the ground, they should never be soaked.

Ridges for winter sowing should be prepared in advance, when the earth is still easy to dig. They also prepare t in advance, store the mixture for mulching crops in heated rooms (so that it does not freeze).

In areas with a close occurrence of groundwater, in order to avoid rotting of seeds from excess moisture, the ridges are made higher than usual (they will settle by spring). The soil must be sufficiently loose.

On heavy loams, the ridges "swim", and it is difficult for seedlings to break through the thickness of the earth in spring. On clay soils, peat or rotted compost is applied (up to 6-8 kg per 1 m 2), as well as phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at the rate of 30-40 g / m 2. Small seeds are buried in the ground by 1.5-2 cm, large seeds by 2-3 cm, onion sets and garlic bulbs by 3-4 cm.

From above, the seeds are covered with pre-prepared peat or light compost so that a crust does not form after the snow melts. In order to get friendly seedlings in spring, the seeding rate for winter sowing must be increased by 50% compared to spring sowing.

It should be noted that, despite all efforts, the seeds can still die in winter or early spring, for example, during a prolonged thaw, severe frosts or flooding of the site.

Therefore, it is better to save especially valuable seeds until spring. In addition, vegetables grown in this way are not suitable for long-term storage, and the flowers fade earlier than those sown in the spring.

Nadezhda Seredyuk, Voronezh

I think whoever has a dacha, he must plant garlic. This seasoning is indispensable. Here I am planting it without fail.

In the autumn in advance (two weeks before planting) I prepare a garden bed. I always plant garlic in the place where pumpkin or beans grew - these are good predecessors for it. On the morning of October 4-6, I sort out the heads of garlic and divide them into cloves. I choose the largest, flat cloves and set aside for eating. When I finish the preparations, my husband and I go to plant. The husband makes deep grooves with a chopper, and I plant cloves every 10 cm. Then we rake the earth into the grooves with a rake, roll it so that the earth fits snugly against the teeth. We cover the bed with mulch (buckwheat husks) with a layer of about 5 cm. That's the whole planting.

Before snow, the garlic rooted, but did not germinate. And in early spring, when the snow melts, green shoots appear. Under the sun, garlic grows quickly. I do not remove the mulch and do not loosen it, since the earth is soft, the grass does not grow. Caring for garlic is rare watering.

If the lower leaves turn yellow, I take urea and sprinkle along the rows. Then I sprinkle over the top. I don't feed anymore.

Garlic stalks grow thick. When arrows appear, I cut them off. But I leave a few pieces to navigate when digging garlic. The arrow rises and straightens, and on it are small air bulbs covered with a white shell. When this shell bursts. I start cleaning right away.

To dry, I put the garlic in a shaded place, under a canopy (the heads turn green in the sun). All garlic is large as a selection. When the stems are dry, I cut them with secateurs, leaving 2 cm near the head. I dry it a little more in a dark place, put it in a box and put it on the floor in a cool pantry. In such conditions, garlic is perfectly stored until the summer.

Next October I again choose large cloves for planting. And the rest we use during the winter for food and treatment.

I decided to sow onion sets and carrots before winter

Natalia Sergeeva, by e-mail

About ten years ago, I, a native townswoman, who always had difficulty distinguishing lettuce from spinach, bought a plot of land outside the city. And my country saga began. There was no way to build a house. Thank you, my friends helped me get a wooden construction shed, not new, but quite decent.

For a couple of years, I managed to put the abandoned site in order. Made a small garden. planted shrubs and flowers. There is not much space left for garden beds, but without them it is completely boring.

Besides, I really like to experiment.

It's not always possible for me to come to the dacha on weekends. And in the spring, during the "sowing season", every day is important. So I decided to sow something in the fall. I have been looking closely at the beds of my neighbors for a long time (some of them began to turn green suspiciously early).

I heard something about winter sowing, so I decided to sow onion sets and carrots. And nothing happened to me! The neighbors' winter beds are already green with might and main, and weeds have just begun to sprout on mine. I decided that it was time to get to know the neighbors and talk to them about this topic. Neighbors are local people, all their lives in the garden, so it seemed to them that there was nothing to explain here, everything was simple. But for me the conversation was very useful: I realized my mistakes. Firstly, beds for winter sowing should be arranged in a high place so that water (from melting snow in the thaw and in spring) does not stagnate there. If the seeds get wet for a long time, they can begin to germinate and die in frost. Plus, they might just piss off. A high place is also good because the sun illuminates it more. As a result, the earth warms up faster in spring, and seedlings appear sooner.

But I think the main thing that provoked my failure was too early sowing. The autumn was warm and protracted, and the seeds sown in September (it was still warm) probably managed to hatch and then disappeared. Neighbors reassured me, they said that everything happens with them, especially if the temperature jumps in winter: either the sun warms, or the frost.

In the fall, I arranged a bed for winter sowing in accordance with all the rules and sowed on time. And in the spring it turned green on a par with the neighbor's.

On a note!

In order to create normal conditions for germinating seeds of winter carrots, in the spring, when the soil begins to dry out, the soil crust is destroyed. After mass shoots of carrots, 15-20 g / m 2 of nitrogen fertilizers are applied with their incorporation into the soil near the row.

Separately about the experience of winter sowing flowers

In October, she sowed the seeds in prepared flower beds

I don’t go out to the dacha so often - work, household chores. Therefore, in the spring I often miss the optimal time for sowing flowers. There are also problems with seedlings: it’s a bit far to get to the site, by two modes of transport, so you won’t be able to carry much. And there is not enough space in the apartment to grow everything you want. Naturally, more attention is paid to vegetable crops - tomatoes, peppers, eggplants. There is practically no space left for flowers.

And I really love flowers. Therefore, I used to be very happy when I found those that reproduce by self-sowing. And somehow I thought that if you help the flowers survive the winter, then you can not mess with the seedlings, and save time. I began to look for information in books on floriculture and found that it was not the seeds that needed to be helped to survive the winter, but the seedlings - in early spring, when the sprouts died in the ground from frost. And it became clear to me what to do.

Collected cosmos seeds. alissum, lavatery, annual aster, gypsophila, godetia, iberis. nigella, delphinium, escholzia, ash, matthiola, scabiosa. Dry them at home as usual. In the first half of October, I went to the site, sowed it in prepared flower beds and threw it with dry leaves, and covered it with spruce branches on top (so that the leaves would not be blown away by the wind).

In March, when there were still frosts, but the sun warmed well during the day, I got out to the dacha. She removed the spruce branches, covered the flower beds with lutrasil, which she again fixed with spruce branches.

So my flower beds warmed themselves until the frosts had already completely departed. In the second half of April, the insulation was removed, carefully raked the leaves. There were no shoots; I thought that none of my ideas worked. But when I arrived at the dacha two weeks later, I was pleasantly surprised: my flower beds came to life, turned green! True, not all the seeds sprouted, but it was a great progress! The plants developed very quickly: the greenery was good, and they bloomed profusely.

In the fall, I came up with another way to make it easier to grow one- and two-year-olds. Sowed the seeds of aquilegia, Turkish carnation, annual chrysanthemums in several boxes filled with garden soil. I put them together in the yard. She made the shelter in the same way as above the flower beds: first with leaves, and in early spring with lutrasil. The convenience is that much less lutrasil is required. and easier to water.

Now I grow my annuals only with the help of winter sowing.

Sowing before winter: what, when and how

Before winter, you can sow not only garlic. For gardeners who are not afraid of experiments, I advise you to try this method of sowing. It has many advantages, and the main one is that you will get harvests much faster (times vary for different crops). Seeds sown before winter undergo a natural process of processing by winter cold under the snow. In the spring, fed by melt water, they swell and start growing as soon as the sun begins to warm up constantly. Plus, plants undergo natural selection, all the strongest candidates germinate, which are resistant to weather vagaries and diseases, and weak ones do not pass the test in winter. The better the harvest!

What to sow?

Before winter, you can sow different crops. Best of all, in my opinion, beetroot succeeds, and even today varieties are bred designed for this. It rises so amicably that thinning is required, and everything that I thinned goes to a vitamin salad. Also, without a doubt, sow carrots: and it has the most suitable varieties, such as the proven ‘Nantes’ and others. Sow before winter and radishes,

but I tried and decided to sow it the old fashioned way in the spring, because early ripening varieties sprout and ripen very quickly already. I also sow marrows in autumn and harvest early instead of buying from the market. Parsley is excellent for me, which, when sown in the spring, can sit in the ground for a very long time, and sown in the fall, sprouts together and early, gives very early greens.

The same can be said about dill. Even spring greens are obtained early from onion-sampling, which, when sown in winter, gives its feathers early. You can sow head salads, salad mustard and cabbage (red, Beijing and cauliflower) in the fall. You can try to sow tomatoes too, but I confess that the results are better when grown through seedlings, and then in a greenhouse.

The bed must be prepared in advance. Immediately after the autumn harvest of the tops, I dig up the ground, charge it with ash and compost.

This may be, depending on the autumn, and in the middle, and at the end of October or in November. There is no need to rush, because the thaw that came after sowing can destroy the seeds - excess moisture gives them a signal to swell, and the frosts that follow will certainly kill the seeds that have been touched.

The technology itself and sowing rates differ depending on the crop, but at the same time they do not differ much from spring sowing methods. I would only recommend sowing a little thicker and thinning out in the spring.

I checked in practice that the newfangled coated seeds are very well suited for winter sowing.

Galina Petrovna Safonova, Shchigry, Kursk region

Planting before winter

First, I will tell you what guided me when making such a strange decision about winter sowing.

It's very simple - I wanted to save precious spring time, which is so often lacking when you want to plant everything that you have planned for the season.

In addition, from the accumulated experience of various gardeners, I learned that vegetables planted before winter undergo a real hardening, after which only the most persistent and strong plants remain. In addition, by sowing vegetables before winter, I will get a harvest much earlier and will be able, perhaps, to sow some more crops. This prospect intrigued me greatly.

It is necessary to sow winter vegetables and greens when stable frosts begin. But here the beds need to be prepared in advance, so as not to bite into the frozen ground later. Why sow so late, you ask. The thing is that if you sow the seeds before the onset of stable frosts, they will begin to grow together, and we do not want this. I fertilize the bed with organic matter - light soil is the best suited for my purpose.

A thaw after winter sowing is extremely undesirable, since the seeds can germinate and die with the advent of frost.

In the garden, I make grooves 3-5 cm deep. The seeds must be absolutely dry, like the earth, with which I then sprinkle the crops. Then I lay out a good layer of mulch, which I also cover with spruce branches so that the snow layer comes out thick. It’s a good idea to lay a layer of covering material on top of the bed so that the melted snow does not wash out the bed and scatter the seeds.

So you can sow carrots, beets, radishes, greens ... It is important to remember the rule that helped me not to ruin all the plantings: carefully observe the weather! If the temperature stays at zero, I wait, what if there is a thaw? And if frost struck and the top layer of soil froze, you can safely sow!

On the day of winter sowing, seed consumption increases by 1.5-2 times.

If unexpected snow falls, do not be discouraged. Just rake it and sow before winter, sprinkling the seeds with fertile soil, peat or compost. They'll make it through the cold.

Seeds should have good germination, be large, full-bodied. It is better to buy high-quality varietal seeds.

Sowing before winter is suitable for cold-resistant crops. These are those plants whose leaves do not have pubescence (the edge of the leaves protects the plants from heat).

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Many gardeners use winter sowing flowers from seeds. This method has many advantages.

First - this method allows you to get the earliest flowering. Secondly, this method of sowing saves a lot of time in the spring, because no one cancels seating and picking, but the place on the windowsills occupied by seedlings will definitely free up. Third - plants that are planted in this way will be more "hardened", resistant to diseases and adverse conditions.

What flowers are best grown in this way, sowing them before winter? There are a lot of them. These are asters and delphinium, iris and calendula, kandyk, cosmea and clematis, buttercup and swimsuit, hellebore, poppy, peony, corydalis and primrose, evening primrose, violet, escholcia, ash tree.

I would like to say about one more advantage of winter sowing. For some plants, for example, hellebore, delphinium, primrose, stratification is needed for seed germination - what does this mean? And this means that the seeds of these plants need cold treatment. Therefore, with winter sowing, this procedure does not need to be carried out, as with spring sowing.

The timing of winter sowing may be different - from October to February, depending on your climate zone. The main thing is to comply with the condition - at the time when the sowing occurs, stable cold must be established. If the sowing is done in too warm weather, the seeds will germinate, and winter frosts will kill them. In the cold, the seeds should go swollen, but in no case sprouted. Given that in recent years, even in central Russia, warm October and even November are not uncommon, sowing time can only come at the end of November.

If you plant seeds directly in the beds, then you need to take care of their preparation and creation in advance, when the ground has not yet been frozen by frost.

It is very convenient to sow seeds in plastic containers or pots. In the spring, it will be easier for you to find seedlings. On your site, choose a place protected from light and wind, lay a non-woven material, if the snow has already fallen, rake it. Then install the boxes, and in them containers with crops. Place another layer of non-woven fabric on top and cover with snow.

The depth of winter sowing of flowers should be the same as during spring sowing or a little less. If you are already sowing in frozen ground, then the grooves can be sprinkled with pre-prepared soil. It is not necessary to water the sown seeds.

In the spring, on the contrary, make sure that the seedlings do not dry out, carry out snow retention, and when the snow melts, it is time to water the seedlings. Sprouted shoots dive and plant in the ground.

Ph.D., Art. scientific collaborator Federal Scientific Center for Horticulture named after I.V. Michurina, Scientific Secretary of the Academy of Non-traditional and Rare Plants, member of the All-Russian Society of Geneticists and Breeders of the Russian Federation

Do you want your garden or patio to light up with bright colors in early spring? Do you want to mess around in the beds, occasionally glancing at a chic flower bed full of flowering plants when the neighbors are just planting seedlings of flowers? Do you want to get strong flower plants with maximum immunity? Then you definitely need to read this article and make winter crops of flower crops. About how to do it, what crops to use, when to sow - now we'll tell you everything!

But, before we start a fascinating story about how to correctly and when it is most correct to lower the grains into the soil, let's talk about the advantages and disadvantages, the pros and cons of winter crops of flower crops.

When there are two pieces of news, I always prefer to start with a good one, so let's start with the benefits of planting flowers in the fall.

Well, of course, this is the very first, earliest spring flowering, days or even weeks earlier than the “neighbors”, and if you build a small greenhouse and cover the seedlings, it will be absolutely great!
The second plus is the full use of spring melt water accumulated in the soil from melting snow, so that a dry spring will not threaten you for sure, especially those who break up the most luxurious flower beds in their summer cottages.
Plus the third - natural stratification, or hardening. “If you want to be healthy, temper yourself,” this also applies to seeds. During the winter, a kind of natural selection will take place, and the strongest and strongest seeds will give powerful seedlings, which will not be afraid of either the vagaries of the weather or diseases with pests.
Plus, the fourth - since the plants are powerful and strong, which means they are resistant to frost and return cold, and this cannot but be to our advantage.
Fifth plus. Suppose every year we sow only seeds collected by our caring hands - thus, using winter crops, we ourselves, without knowing it, can get elite seed material, simply ideally adapted to local climate conditions. And each year will be better than the previous one, both in strength of growth and in the degree of flowering, coupled with duration.
The sixth plus is a small head start, a drop of time that can be spent in the spring not on sowing seeds, but on something else.
Well, a couple of not pluses, but pluses - this is the ability for plants to form more developed roots, and, consequently, we should pay less attention to them in the future in terms of care; and cats will bask in the sun on our window sills, and not seedlings will stand (although this is an amateur).

But there is also bad news, or rather, the disadvantages or risks of winter sowing of flower crops. There are significantly fewer of them, but, nevertheless, there is always a risk that you will incorrectly determine the timing of sowing, it will get warmer, the seeds will sprout and die.

Early thaws - the same picture, a provocation, the seeds "think" that it is spring, but no, then a serious frost and again a bunch of attacks.

Well, it’s a sin to hide, annuals during winter sowing sprout much worse than if you dispersed the cats from the windowsills and started growing seedlings, like this ...

But we are residents of the 21st century, and therefore we need to somehow change the usual foundations, boldly sow annuals before winter.

Sowing annuals

The very first and most important rule is that the seeds of annual crops should only be sown in already frozen soil, otherwise they will sprout and die. Around the beginning of October, prepare the soil well, select a site such that meltwater cannot wash away the seeds, and so that it is more convenient for you to contemplate future beauty, and for future beauty to contemplate the world around.

Dig up the soil, add 300 g of wood ash per sq. meter and make holes or grooves. As for the depth of these same holes or grooves, it must be calculated based on the size of the seeds, but usually the largest seeds are not immersed by more than 4 cm, and the small ones by less than a centimeter (winter is ahead).

Next, stock up on loose and fertile soil so that the holes or grooves are properly sprinkled later. To do this, it is ideal to use humus or a mixture of compost and river sand in equal proportions, or the same from river sand and humus.

Around November, you can safely start sowing annual flowers. At the same time, you can sow both in November and at the very beginning of December, trying to sow twice as thick as usual in spring.

After sowing, the seeds are sprinkled with the prepared mixture, and leaf litter is thrown on top, and so that it is not blown by the wind throughout the area, they are also covered with spruce paws (they chic hold the snow).

How to plant in the snow, you ask? But it’s simple - they trample it down well, crush it and place the seeds, and then sprinkle it with one of those mixtures that are described above, they are stored in our heat. From above you can sketch a snowball.

Proven annual flower crops that will definitely sprout in the spring are: summer adonis, sea alissum, Chinese aster, blue cornflower, Chinese carnation, large-flowered godetia, graceful gypsophila, delphinium annual, notched dimorphotheca, rain dimorphotheca, bitter iberis, umbrella iberis, calendula officinalis, clarkia marigold, escholcia Californian, collinsia variegated, double-pinnate kosmeya and sulphur-yellow kosmeya, keeled chrysanthemum, sowing chrysanthemum and crowned chrysanthemum, three-month-old lavatera, antirrinum, self-seed poppy, malcolmia maritime, matthiola two-horned, fragrant mignonette .

Sowing and perennials

The principle is the same: we prepare the soil well, dig a shovel on a full bayonet, remove all plant debris, weed rhizomes, add 350-400 g of wood ash or a teaspoon of potassium sulfate per square meter. Next, we make holes or grooves, in fact, as for annual flowering plants. Perennials are usually sown from the first decade of October to the beginning of November. The mixture needed to cover the sown seeds can be used the same as we described above. Choose the option you like and sprinkle, and most importantly, keep it warm so that it does not freeze by the time of sowing.

In autumn, you can safely sow such perennial flowering plants as aconite, alpine aster and New Belgian aster, buzulniki, species geyher, panicled gypsophila, dicentra, oriental poppy, euphorbia, rudbeckia, non-double varieties of nivyanik.

Autumn has already come into its own, the gardens are filled with bright colors of the new season - asters, chrysanthemums and dahlias are blazing with bright colors, the leaves are turning yellow ... real cold is just around the corner, and with them - and the end of the next gardening season.

However, experienced gardeners know that autumn is a time of many worries and troubles necessary to prepare for the next season. Among them are autumn crops.

Winter sowing of annual and perennial flowers means planting already on frozen ground - in late October - early November, or even on snow - in December - January. However, you need to start preparing for the winter sowing of flowers right now: prepare the soil, ridges and, of course, stock up on seeds.

If you have never sowed before winter, the very thought of such a method of growing flowers can make you shiver: but how can you throw them, tender ones, right into the snow? In fact, it is the winter sowing of many flowers that often gives the best results.

Pros and cons of winter crops

So, why do you need to sow flowers in cold weather?

In their natural habitat, flowers, as a rule, reproduce quite independently. Seeds after ripening fall into the soil, spend the winter under the snow and begin to germinate with the first spring rays of the sun. That is, such sowing creates natural growth conditions (of course, we are talking mainly about frost-resistant plants).

In this situation, plants harden off and grow stronger and more resilient than when grown in greenhouse conditions. They are quite capable of withstanding spring frosts, are disease resistant and grow well. In addition, hardened plants develop healthier, deeper root systems that allow them to draw water from deeper soil layers. And this, in turn, means better resistance to drought and weeds.

By the way, annuals sown in autumn usually bloom about a week earlier than their counterparts sown in spring.

In addition, in the spring you do not have to worry about whether the earth has already warmed up enough for planting. The plants themselves will germinate at the most optimal time for them. Hence, another undoubted plus: the release of your time in the spring and empty window sills! Podzimnie crops eliminate the need to mess with the seedlings of these crops.

As for the shortcomings of autumn sowing of annual crops, here we can first of all name the relatively low germination of seeds (when compared with the seedling method of growing). It is for this reason that during autumn sowing, seeds are usually sown much denser than in spring, and this, in turn, increases the consumption of seeds.

Winter thaws also pose a danger to winter crops. Seeds may awaken prematurely, in which case, of course, all sprouts will die in subsequent frosts.

And, of course, not all flowers can be planted in cold weather. Heat-loving exotics from the southern latitudes will simply die under the snow.

But plants grown in this way will be much stronger than seedlings, and as for germination, you can always notice in the spring those crops that have not sprouted or have sprouted poorly, and duplicate the sowing in a timely manner.

As for perennials, there are even more reasons to sow in the fall. The fact is that many types of perennial ornamental plants require cold treatment for seed germination. In order to grow these flowers in seedlings, soaked seeds are kept in the refrigerator for 2-3 months. However, it is much easier to sow these seeds in the ground before winter, and then the stratification will take place naturally without much effort on your part.

Most perennials develop much more successfully during winter sowing. And if you cover the seedlings with a film in the spring, you can often even achieve their flowering in the first year of life.

As for the germination of perennial seeds during autumn planting, it is much higher than that of annual plants.

Autumn sowing of annuals

The first rule when planting annual crops in the autumn is to sow in already frozen ground. Otherwise, the seeds may germinate prematurely and die at the first frost.

However, it is necessary to start preparing the soil in advance - in late September - early October, before the ground freezes. It is worth carefully planning the site for planting so that in the spring the seeds are not washed away by melt water.

To prepare the soil in the selected area, it is necessary to dig, fertilize and make shallow grooves or holes. The depth of the grooves is calculated based on the selected plant species: for large seeds, a depth of about 4-5 centimeters is needed, for medium ones - about 2, for small ones - no more than 1 centimeter.

In addition, it is worth stocking up in advance with a substrate for sprinkling seeds. Since during the winter the top layer of soil can be very compacted, which makes it difficult to germinate, it is recommended to sprinkle the crops with a thin layer of peat, humus or a light soil mixture of compost, peat with sand or humus with sand.

The actual sowing can be started in two terms: in November-December, when the topsoil freezes, or in the snow, in December-January. In any case, the seeds should be sown thicker than in spring.

When sown in late autumn, the seeds are placed in grooves and sprinkled with prepared soil mixture. From above, you can additionally cover the crops with a layer of fallen leaves.

For winter (in December-January, when the snow layer is at least 25 centimeters) sowing, the soil is prepared in exactly the same way (digging, fertilizing), however, there is no need to make grooves in the ground, since the seeds are sown directly into the snow.

Snow is trampled down, grooves are made in it, seeds are placed in them. From above, the crops are sprinkled with a layer of prepared (non-frozen) soil mixture or peat and, additionally, with a layer of snow.

In the spring, seedlings will need to be thinned out.

Some of the annuals suitable for winter sowing: dimorphotheca notched and rainy, bitter and umbrella, collinsia variegated, double-pinnate and sulfur-yellow, keeled, sowing and crowned, seaside malcolmia, Drummond, .

Autumn sowing of perennials

The soil for the autumn sowing of perennial flowers is prepared in the same way as for annuals: they dig up, fertilize and make grooves. Sowing begins from mid-October to early November. Seeds are also sprinkled with a thin layer of prepared soil mixture.

In the spring, after the snow melts, it is advisable to cover the seed bed with a film. Thus, you will accelerate the flowering of perennials, and at the same time protect the seeds from birds and spring rains. After the shoots appear, the film should be removed.

Winter sowing of annual and perennial flowers implies planting already on frozen ground - in late October - early November, or even on snow - in December - January. However, you need to start preparing for the winter sowing of flowers right now: prepare the soil, ridges and, of course, stock up on seeds.

Planting flowers before winter in November 2019: rules for sowing annual and perennial flowers in autumn

If you want to see your garden beautiful and even colorful already in the spring, start the new summer season in the company of green strong shoots pleasing the soul, and then surrounded by bright early flowering, then the autumn (winter) sowing of flowers is just for you!

Yes, this is not a joke or a mockery! It is in the fall, before winter, that many flowers (and not only flowers!) can and should be sown in the garden.

Benefits of autumn (winter) sowing flowers

the possibility of obtaining bright spring flowering much earlier than with spring sowing, and covering the crops with a film gives even greater acceleration;
full use of spring moisture from snowmelt by crops, i.e. eliminates the risk of "dry spring";
the passage of the hardening process by seeds under conditions of natural selection: the weak ones died, the strong ones will give strong and healthy seedlings;
obtaining frost-resistant, disease-resistant seedlings and plants, and the absence of pests at this time will give additional strength for development at the initial stage of development;
if from year to year you use exclusively your seeds obtained from plants that have passed natural selection in this way, then over the years you can get new varieties adapted to local winter conditions, improving the result every year;
getting a certain amount of free time to use it for other spring work, since part of the work on preparing the beds and sowing has already been completed in the fall;
the ability to form a more powerful, deep and healthy root system, allowing the use of moisture from the lower layers of the soil;
the opportunity to leave the window sills free in the spring.

Possible risks of autumn (winter) sowing of flowers

the difficulty of determining the timing of sowing: if you do not guess with the timing of sowing, the seeds will hatch in the fall and freeze in the winter cold;
the danger of early thaws: if the seeds begin to hatch from temporary warming, then the return of severe frosts will also lead to their freezing;
relatively low germination of annuals in comparison with the seedling method of growing flowers;

Terms of autumn (podzimnego) sowing flowers

Autumn (sub-winter) sowing of flowers can be started only after the onset of a stable, stable cold snap and frost.

In many regions - this is the end of October - the beginning-mid-November. To start sowing, the soil should freeze to 2-4 degrees, the air should not exceed 0 degrees during the day. If there is a possibility of an increase in temperature, then you should not rush with crops, because. thaw after sowing is highly contraindicated. Here the main indicator is the frozen topsoil.

Lunar calendar 2019

Auspicious days for sowing and planting flowers

Preparation of beds for autumn (winter) sowing of flowers

The most important thing here is the right choice of a place for crops.

The correct choice would be a sunny, sheltered from cold winds, well-heated and drying place, not flooded in spring, on the southern slopes and hillocks.
With a low-lying location of the site and surface groundwater, the beds are made raised (15-20 cm high), or high (30-40 cm high).

It is advisable to prepare the beds in advance, the best time for this is September, early October.

The soil must be dug up and fertilized: basically, it is compost or humus, in some cases, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
The soil should be light and fertile, because. heavy over the winter has time to strongly compact.

for small seeds - 0.5 - 1 cm deep,
for medium - 2 cm deep,
for large seeds - 4-5 cm deep.

The beds with grooves are covered with a film to keep the soil dry so that autumn rains and weed seeds do not fall into the grooves.
Also, you need to take care of the preparation of dry soil and mulch (sand, compost) in advance, put it in a dry place before sowing the seeds.

Podzimny sowing seeds

Completely dry seeds are sown in grooves, sprinkled with a layer of 1.5-2 cm prepared in advance with dry soil, and an additional 2-3 cm layer of mulch on top.

Podzimny sowing seeds of annual flowers can be done in two terms:

late autumn (end of October - beginning of November) and
at the beginning of winter (December - January).

At the same time, the sowing technology for these two terms is different.

Sowing seeds in late autumn (late October - early November)

Podzimny sowing late autumn you can start only after the onset of a stable, stable cooling and frost:

The topsoil must be frozen and the flower seeds must lie dry in the soil so that they do not have time to germinate in the fall.
When such a time comes, the topsoil is frozen, there is no threat of warming, then completely dry seeds are sown along the grooves and nests in previously prepared areas, then they are sprinkled with a layer of 1.5-2 cm prepared in advance, dry soil, with an additional 2-3 layer of mulch on top. cm.
Mulch is used to prevent crusting on the soil surface and to maintain negative temperatures in the soil during occasional autumn warming and early spring thaws.
And this factor is very important and must be observed, otherwise if the seeds begin to hatch from temporary warming, then the return of severe frosts will lead to their freezing.
Seed consumption during autumn (winter) sowing of flowers increases by 1.5 times.

In spring, the first thinning of seedlings is done after the appearance of the third leaf,

the second thinning - 2 weeks after the first, already finalizing the desired scheme for each type of plant.

Sowing seeds at the beginning of winter (December - January)

The sowing of flower seeds at the beginning of winter is started after the formation of a snow cover of at least 25 cm.

Snow is trampled down on a site prepared in advance in autumn, grooves are made directly on it, and seeds are sown in them, also spending 1.5 times more seeds.
The seeds are sprinkled with a layer of 1.5-2 cm prepared in advance with dry soil, and snow is thrown on top and compacted well to protect the seeds from mice.
In the spring, two thinnings are made according to the method described above.
Most annuals do not tolerate transplanting well, and therefore it is better to sow such species immediately in flower beds to a permanent place.