Hydrangea mega pearl planting and care reproduction. Hydrangea paniculata - planting and necessary care in the open field. Reproduction of hydrangea paniculata

The plant rises quickly, and may bloom the next year, but for this you need to create the necessary conditions when planting it.

But before lush flowers cover the bush, you need to know how to properly plant a hydrangea so that it pleases the eye with its luxurious clusters.

Landing time selection

It is best to plant a hydrangea in the spring, as it will have time and conditions for it to take root and take root. If climatic conditions allow planting in early spring, this is the best time, perhaps even in the year of planting, hydrangea will delight you with its flowering.

A planting option is also possible in the autumn. Although the bushes of this plant tolerate the cold season well, it will still not be out of place to insulate it for the winter, especially if the hydrangea is planted in the fall.

Fortune's euonymus on our backyard -

Pest and disease control

Hydrangeas, like all plants, can be affected by various diseases and pests. If the owner of the garden wants to have healthy, flowering plants, he must definitely take care of medicines for them.

What diseases can affect paniculate hydrangea, and what remedies can be used against them?

Powdery mildew on hydrangea leaves

The most common disease of this plant is powdery mildew.

To save him from this misfortune, you need to use a solution of foundationol with water, in proportions of 20-25 g per 10 liters. Another remedy is Bordeaux liquid 80-100 g per 10-12 liters. water.

Another attack of hydrangeas - aphid.

Ordinary garlic, from which tincture is made, will help to cope with it. The process of its preparation is that 250 g of peeled garlic is crushed and poured with 8-10 liters of water. The tincture stands for two days, then 50 g of softened laundry soap is added there, mixed well - and the medicine is ready.

With this composition, you need to spray the plant once a week until there is no trace of the pest.

All parts of hydrangeas contain cyanogenic glycosides - toxic substances. be careful when working with these plants.

How to prepare panicle hydrangea for winter?

No matter how resistant these bushes are to cold winters, it is still better to take care that the plant has safely overwintered.

To do this, you need to cover the roots, as they are more vulnerable to frost. Rotted manure is perfect for this, it is a good heater. Peat and dry leaves are also perfect for warming hydrangeas, but they need to be laid under a bush in a thick layer, about 15-20 cm.

If everything is done correctly, the cold for the roots of the plant will not pose a great danger.

Useful tips and some secrets of caring for hydrangea paniculata.

These flowers can serve as a room decoration in winter. To do this, you can make a winter bouquet from inflorescences. When all the flowers in the inflorescence bloom, you need to carefully cut it off and place it for drying in a dark room, hanging it with the inflorescences down.

There is one secret that will help change color bush flowers. How to get, say, a blue hydrangea? It is not so difficult. When watering, you need to add iron salts to the water and increase the acidity of the soil by additionally adding peat. The aluminum alum will help enhance the blue coloration.

Another little secret. If you want it to seem like multi-colored inflorescences bloomed on one bush, you need to do several procedures.

1. First, you need to install a large flowerpot on the ground. If it is square, then its size, approximately, should be one square. m., height - 50-70 cm.
2. Secondly, divide it in half inside with a partition and fill each of the parts with fertilized soil.
3. Thirdly, it is good to shed the earth in one part of the flowerpot with coloring compounds, and leave the second part simply with fertilized soil, and plant a bush of pink hydrangeas in each part.

Viktor Sergeev

Hello dear readers. Today we will talk about panicled hydrangea. In addition to paniculata, there is a tree-like, large-leaved, ground cover, garden (macrophylla) and others. I promise to review them later. For now, we will focus only on the paniculate, as the most common. Let's start with a description and the necessary conditions for normal growth and development.

Hydrangea paniculata is a shrub or tree that can reach a height of 10 meters. The roots lie shallow, but the distribution boundary significantly exceeds the crown diameter. The leaves reach a size of more than 10cm. The inflorescences are broad-pyramidal densely hairy panicles up to 25 cm long, hence the name of this plant. Blooms almost from early summer to late autumn.

Content

It is advisable to plant hydrangea in semi-shady places, otherwise beautiful flowers may lose their decorative effect in direct sun. It grows rapidly, is characterized by moderate frost resistance. Prefers slightly acidic, closer to normal, fertile and moist soil. It responds well to organic and mineral fertilizers.

A prerequisite for caring for hydrangeas is pruning. In the bush form, the shoots are cut into three buds in the spring, the tree-like form is not cut so much. To form a tree, all shoots, except for the main one, are pinched once or twice during the summer. After the trunk grows to a normal diameter at a height of about 1.5 meters, a crown is laid.

Panicled hydrangea is grown from seeds, and propagated by layering and cuttings. I will say right away that planting seeds is a long process and not everyone takes it up, preferring to buy ready-made seedlings or borrow from a neighbor in the garden. In any case, I will tell you how to do it.

In short, these are all the basic requirements for caring for this beautiful plant, we will consider in more detail below. I also recommend reading how to plant in your garden plot. I'm sure the two of them will decorate it.

Hydrangea paniculata - names and descriptions of varieties

This wonderful plant gained great popularity due to its incredibly beautiful and long flowering. To date, there are many varieties of panicled hydrangea, some species of which are able to change shade, accumulating aluminum in themselves, which is released from acidic soils.

A beautiful spreading bush, with a rounded crown with a wide base. The height can reach from 1.5 to 2.5 m. The leaves are dark green, medium in size, narrow ovoid. The inflorescence is a panicle of conical shape up to 35 cm in length, consisting of sterile and fertile flowers. The color of the panicle is white with a creamy tint, turning slightly pink by autumn, and also changes with changes in the acidity of the soil. Hydrangea blooms profusely from July until almost frost. Unpretentious and winter-hardy plant.

Does not tolerate alkaline, as well as waterlogged and overcompacted soils. Prefers moist, drained, fertile, loamy soils with an acidic or slightly acidic reaction. Grows well on peat substrates. Moderately wind resistant, strong winds can damage shoots. It tolerates pruning and is resistant to diseases and pests.

Hydrangea has high winter hardiness and can grow in the regions of Western Siberia and the Far East. Only young shoots need to be protected from frost. The plant is photophilous, but grows better in shady places. Propagated by green actively growing cuttings from late spring to mid-summer, or lignified cuttings from late winter to early summer.

Dart's Little Dot

A new, very rare dwarf variety of hydrangeas. The height of the bush does not exceed 1 meter, has a dense crown and erect stems.

The leaves are small, matte. Inflorescences are numerous, pyramidal or spherical, up to 10 cm in diameter. Prefers nutritious soils, does not respond well to liming.

It is frost-resistant, young plants above the level of snow can freeze, winter hardiness increases with age. Photophilous. Requires moisture. Prefers loose, fertile, acidic soils

One of the most popular varieties of hydrangeas in the world, up to 2.5 m high, with a dense, round, not falling apart crown. Shoots slightly branched, thick, strong, straight, light brown. The leaves are bright green in color, oblong-oval in shape. Inflorescences are pyramidal up to 20 cm long, large and dense, consist of yellowish-greenish-white flowers, turning pink by the end of flowering. It blooms from mid-summer, blooms profusely until the end of September. Hydrangea does not require a garter, but annual early spring pruning is recommended.

The plant does not tolerate alkaline soils and reacts poorly to dry and overcompacted soils. The color of the inflorescences changes slightly with changes in soil acidity. Moderately wind resistant, but strong winds can break shoots. Handles pruning well. Resistant to diseases and pests. Winter hardiness is high, grows to Western Siberia and the Far East.

The plant is demanding on soils, prefers abundantly moist, drained, fertile soils with acidic and slightly acidic reactions. Hydrangea is propagated by green cuttings from late spring to early summer, while rooting reaches 90-95%, as well as by dividing the bush.

A beautiful shrub or small tree up to 2.5 meters high with a spreading crown. The leaves are dark green above, lighter below, hairy, serrated along the edges, up to 10 cm long. Flowers in the form of a pyramidal panicle up to 20 cm long. Blooms from July to September.

The growth rate is average. The most popular plant in cultivation. Hydrangea is demanding on the soil, prefers abundantly moist, well-drained, fertile, loamy soils with a slightly acidic reaction.

Hydrangea has high winter hardiness, but young varietal plants can be damaged in severe frosts and during spring return frosts. Propagated by green, lignified or semi-lignified cuttings from the end of winter to the beginning of summer, or by dividing the bush.

This hydrangea is a Japanese selection, bearing the name of the island, which we pronounce as Kyushu. A fast-growing and tall shrub up to 3 m tall with a vase- or fan-shaped crown. Shoots are greenish-brown in color, very strong and tough, up to 2 cm in diameter. The leaves are dark green, with red petioles. Inflorescences fragrant, conical, up to 30 cm long, white. Sterile flowers are arranged in tiers. Flowering from August to October. A very decorative unpretentious plant, although frost resistance is slightly less than the bulk of other varieties.

Hydrangea does not tolerate alkaline, dry and overcompacted soils, preferring richly moist, fertile loams with acidic and slightly acidic reactions. Grows well on peat substrates. The color of the inflorescences may vary depending on the acidity of the soil. Moderately wind resistant. Handles pruning well. Quite resistant to pests and diseases.

Propagated by green, lignified or semi-lignified cuttings from the end of winter to the beginning of summer, or by dividing the bush. One of the most popular crops.

One of the most famous and widespread varieties with velvety elliptical green, pubescent leaves below. The flowers are sterile, broadly pyramidal in shape, white with a slightly creamy tint, turning pink at the end of flowering, up to 25-30 cm long. The diameter of the flower along the brush increases towards the base of the pyramid. Photophilous, but prefers shady places.

Hydrangea grows quickly, has high frost resistance. Moderately wind resistant, strong winds can damage shoots. It tolerates pruning, is resistant to diseases and pests. The height of the shrub reaches 2.5 meters. spreading crown. Distributed in Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands, in Japan, in sparse oak forests, on forest edges.

Prefers well-moistened, well-drained, fertile, loamy soil, acidic to slightly acidic. Blooms from early June to September. Propagated by dividing the bush or cuttings from the end of winter to the beginning of summer.

A beautiful shrub up to 2 m high, with strong, strong, dark brown shoots that do not require a garter. The leaves are dark green, elongated, ovoid. Inflorescences - panicles of a conical shape with a wide base, large, white, sometimes slightly pinking up to 20 cm long. Blooms for a long time and profusely from July to late autumn. One of the oldest varieties with high winter hardiness.

Hydrangea has high winter hardiness. Light-requiring, but grows better in shady places. Soil requirements, as with other varieties: do not tolerate alkaline, dry and over-compacted soils, preferring richly moist, fertile loams with acidic and slightly acidic reactions. Grows well on peat substrates.

Propagated by cuttings from late winter to early summer, or by dividing the bush. Like all other varieties, it tolerates pruning well and is resistant to diseases and pests.

Beautiful profusely flowering shrub up to 2 meters high. Hydrangea shoots are erect, rigid. The leaves have an elongated dark green color and a matte surface. Pyramid-shaped inflorescences up to 30 cm in size. Blooms from early July to mid-September. Flowers are interesting because they change color. In summer, the buds are white, but gradually acquire a rich color and become dark pink or lilac by autumn.

This variety of hydrangea is shade-loving. The shrub is not only beautiful, but also durable. With good care and timely pruning, it blooms annually and has a lifespan of over 30 years.

Hydrangea prefers moist, well-drained soils, with an acidic, slightly acidic or neutral reaction. Does not tolerate alkaline soil. Moderately winter-hardy, it is desirable to cover for the winter. Propagated by cuttings, branches or division of the bush.

Very beautiful shrub up to 2 meters high and 1 meter in diameter. This variety of hydrangea is popular because of its high decorativeness - against the background of dark green leaves, large spherical and pyramidal inflorescences, consisting of white and pink flowers, stand out in contrast. The color changes from creamy white in early summer to pink in mid-summer and finally turns strawberry red when flowering. The variety is excellent for cutting.

Light-requiring, but grows best in shady places. Frost resistance in hydrangeas is high. Flowering from July to September. It has a fairly strong delicate aroma. Requires fairly strong spring pruning. It responds well to fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers.

Hydrangea prefers moist, well-drained soils, with an acidic, slightly acidic or neutral reaction. Does not tolerate alkaline soil. Propagated by cuttings, branches or division of the bush. It is believed that a more beautiful panicled hydrangea cannot be found.

Late flowering shrub up to 3 meters high. Leaves are green, rough. The flower panicle is pyramidal, up to 30 cm long, white, fading to pink. Blooms in August - September. Frost resistance is high, it can winter well without shelter, in spring it needs minor sanitary pruning.

Shoots brown-brown, erect. Hydrangea is photophilous, moisture-loving, responds well to fertilizing with fertilizers. With age, winter hardiness increases.

Like all hydrangeas, it does not like alkaline soils, preferring abundantly moist, well-drained, fertile loams, with an acidic or slightly acidic reaction. Propagated by cuttings, branches or division of the bush.

Very beautiful hydrangea up to 2 meters high. Delightful pyramidal inflorescences, similar to ice cream cones, up to 30 cm long. Snow white on top of the flower cluster, the petals gradually turn red, becoming creamy purple, almost raspberry towards the base. It has high winter hardiness, which increases with age.

Light-requiring, but grows better in shady places. Despite the high winter hardiness, young plants, the first 2-3 years, it is better to cover for the winter. Strong winds can break the branches burdened with huge inflorescences, so it is better to tie them up. The annual growth is about 25 cm. The plant grows to the final height in about 6-8 years.

Like all hydrangeas, it does not like alkaline soils, preferring abundantly moist, well-drained, fertile loams, with an acidic or slightly acidic reaction. Propagated by cuttings, branches or division of the bush.

Shrub up to 3 meters high and the same crown diameter. The leaves are rough, green, oblong 12-14 cm long. The flowers are collected in large round inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter, or pyramidal. The diameter of the flowers themselves can reach 5-6 cm. Hydrangea grows well in the sun and in the shade. Handles pruning well. Flowering from July to September. Color creamy white.

Prefers well-moistened, drained soils, slightly acidic. Grows well on peat substrates. Does not tolerate lime in the soil. Responds well to fertilizing.

It is decorative due to the beautiful, sprawling form of the bush and large wide-conical inflorescences with a large number of white sterile flowers. Hydrangea is propagated, as well as all the others by cuttings from the end of winter to the beginning of summer, or by dividing the bush. It is used in single and group plantings, as an accent in tree and shrub compositions.

Hydrangea paniculata - planting and care in the open field

Friends, I always say that it is easy to take care of a plant if you know its preferences. Let's find out what the panicled hydrangea wants. If you read the description of the varieties, you will definitely see that the plant grows better on acidic soils. Why is this happening? There is a certain group of plants called acidophilus.

The main distinguishing feature of such plants is the absence of suction root hairs. They are replaced by microscopic fungi that penetrate into the root tissue and act as a supplier of moisture and trace elements. In botany, this combination is called mycorrhiza - mushroom + rhizome (rhizome). Such a symbiosis cannot live and develop normally without each other, and an indispensable condition for the existence of the mycelium is an acidic environment.

Paniculata hydrangea just refers to acidophilic plants. That is why she loves slightly acidic and acidic soils. By planting this plant in soil with a normal reaction, or even worse, with alkaline, you doom it to almost death.

The root system of the hydrangea is superficial, does not lie particularly deep, the bulk of the roots is located approximately in the upper 30 centimeters of the soil. They grow significantly in breadth, often the border of the rhizome exceeds the diameter of the crown of the plant. This imposes certain requirements, since the top layer of the soil dries out much faster than the deep ones, and the leaf apparatus is highly developed, and frequent watering is required. And you need to loosen no deeper than 5-10cm. Very useful for mulching.

Since the plant belongs to the strongly flowering, there are features of fertilization. Nitrogen fertilizers can be applied only at the beginning of summer, at the time of growth of the leaf apparatus. From mid-summer, the introduction of nitrogen is stopped, and during the budding period they are fed with fertilizers with a predominance of potassium. If there is a lot of organic matter, it will be at the expense of flowering.

These are the basic requirements that hydrangea makes for its care, as you can see, there are not so many of them, and they are easy to fulfill.

How to grow hydrangea from seeds

Hydrangea is propagated mainly by cuttings or by dividing the bush. But it can also be grown from seed. Growing from seeds is a very laborious method and therefore rarely used. I will describe it so that you have an idea about it.

First you need to get seeds. They can either be harvested in the fall, when your plant has faded, or bought from a store or nursery. Hydrangeas have two types of flowers:

• fertile - they are small, located in the center, form pollen and seeds
• sterile - they are large, attracting attention, but not having the possibility of reproduction

Often the plant has only sterile flowers; collect seeds that fail.

Seeds before planting must be prepared, germinated. To do this, take one drop of Epin per liter of water and prepare a solution. Put a cotton swab or cotton pad on a saucer, place hydrangea seeds on top, cover with another cotton pad and fill with the prepared solution. The optimum temperature for germination is + 15 ... + 20 degrees. We will sow in the ground when the seeds hatch, this is about 5-7 days later.

Then you need to choose the soil. You can either buy ready-made or make your own. Do not forget that hydrangea loves acidic soils. Here is an example composition that you can prepare yourself:

• sod land
• humus
• sand

The proportion of components is 1:0.5:1:0.5. Place the prepared soil in a suitable container and level it. Before planting, it is advisable to shed the earth with a solution of potassium permanganate and the next day with phytosporin. The landing process is as follows:

• Lay the prepared seeds on the surface, not deepening into the ground. You can add some sand.
• Cover with glass or film to make a greenhouse. If condensation appears on the glass, ventilate.
• Put in a warm place with a temperature of about +20 degrees, for a period of about two weeks.
• When the seeds germinate, you will see it, remove the glass.

After about a month, when the first true leaves appear, the seedlings can dive into separate containers. Young shoots should not be exposed to drafts. The light should be bright but diffused. Do not expose the seedlings to direct sunlight, this can lead to burns on the leaves. The optimum temperature for seedlings is + 15 ... + 22 degrees. Water with settled warm water without chlorine from the water supply.

With the advent of 2-3 leaves, seedlings can be thinned out and planted in separate pots. Repeated picking is carried out when the sprouts stretch 7-8 cm.

The next stage of growing seedlings will take you a couple of years. That is how much it takes for the plant to be able to get stronger for further growth in the open field.

All this time, the seedlings must be watered as needed, preventing the soil from drying out. If you only have tap water, stand it up first to release the chlorine. Feed with complex liquid hydrangea fertilizers according to the instructions.

The optimal temperature, as I already wrote, is + 15 ... + 22 degrees. In winter, it is advisable to lower the temperature by another 3-5 degrees, if you have such an opportunity. Your plants may need one or two transplants to a larger pot during the growth period. By the time of planting in open ground, the plant will reach a height of 30-40cm.

Hydrangeas are planted for permanent residence, usually in the second half of May, when the risk of return frosts has passed. The process is simple:

• Dig planting holes at a distance of at least one meter from each other, pour drainage material on the bottom: small stones, coarse sand
• Prepare the soil separately by mixing soddy soil, peat, humus and sand in a ratio of 1: 0.5: 1: 0.5, and pour it on the drainage layer
• Place the seedling in the hole so that the root neck is at the level of the soil. Cover with prepared soil mixture. Compact and water the seedling abundantly. Water should soak the soil to a depth where the roots are located, that is, 30-40 cm. I recommend mulching the planting with peat, wood chips or bark, with a layer of up to 10 cm

The main rule: Ash, lime, chalk, dolomite flour and other deoxidizers are contraindicated.

How to care for hydrangea

Paniculata hydrangea is an unpretentious plant and can grow even in such harsh conditions as gassed places near highways. But in order to get a healthy shrub in the garden, delighting you with large flowering pyramids of different shades, you still need to provide it with proper care.

Care consists of watering, fertilizing and pruning. Let's dwell on them in more detail.

Watering hydrangeas. You need to water more than once a day, and even more than once a week, as is often written, but as needed. There is absolutely no point in doing this in rainy weather. The main thing to remember is that the root system lies close to the surface, which dries out in the first place, and the roots cannot get life-giving moisture from the deeper layers. So you need to water more often, how often - see according to your conditions. And the fact that the roots grow near the surface, it is impossible to deeply loosen the ground under the hydrangea, it is better to mulch it. Thus, you will reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil, and ensure the flow of air to the roots. I can only add that the plant loves very high humidity, because the Latin name for hydrangea is hydrangea, which translates as a vessel for water: hydor - water and aggeion - a vessel.

Top dressing hydrangeas. Top dressing is divided into spring, summer and autumn. The choice of fertilizer depends not only on the composition of the soil, but also on the age of the plant. I already wrote about planting in open ground, if you did the same, then in the first two years your seedling will not need to be fed. And starting from the third year, fertilizers begin to be applied.

• At the beginning of summer, fertilizers containing an increased amount of nitrogen are applied once: chicken manure, horse or cow manure. One of these components is poured with water in a ratio of 1 to 10, and infused for 7-10 days. The composition is stirred daily during the infusion period. The resulting concentrate is filtered and used for top dressing, diluted with water beforehand. Manure-based fertilizer is diluted at the rate of 1:20, and manure-based - 1:10. If you use mineral fertilizers, then use potassium sulfate and urea. They are bred in a tablespoon of each in 10 liters of water, half a bucket is poured under each bush. It is good to use complex mineral fertilizers for hydrangeas.

• In summer, during budding, hydrangeas require other nutrients, so components rich in phosphorus and potassium are added to top dressing. It can be a complex mineral preparation containing the necessary elements. Bring in according to the instructions. It is good to use herbal infusion (nettle, dandelions, gout) with the addition of uniflor bud and boric acid. For a bucket of water - half a liter of herbal infusion, 1 cap of uniflor bud, 1/2 of boric acid recommended according to the instructions.
• The third time the hydrangea is fed in September. Spilled with a solution of potassium humate.

After the rains, once or twice a month, it is useful to shed the plants with the Radiance 1 biological product, regardless of other top dressings.

pruning hydrangeas. Plant pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. Spring pruning should be done as early as possible to allow as much time as possible for flowering growths to develop. It is usually performed when the kidneys swell so that they can be seen. You will never go wrong if you leave 2-4 buds from the fork, as in the picture. Very small branches can be cut off completely. During spring pruning, the bush is formed as you like.

In the fall, paniculate hydrangeas must be cut off the buds that have already faded and part of the shoot on which they grew, since flowering occurs on annual branches. If you do not cut off the inflorescences, then under the weight of snow they can break the branches, and it is easier to wrap the trimmed plant.

Reproduction of hydrangea cuttings

One way to propagate hydrangeas is cuttings. In most cases, semi-lignified cuttings are used for this purpose, and summer is considered the most successful time for cuttings. However, paniculate hydrangea can also be propagated in spring and autumn - in this case, woody cuttings are used.

If you carry out cuttings in the spring, you will not only propagate the plant, but also give the bush the correct shape by pruning.

The process is simple. Take half-cured shoots on cuttings, make the lower cut at 45 degrees, then leave 2 internodes, leave 1 cm above the upper internode and make a straight cut.

Dip the cut cuttings with a sharp end into a solution of zircon or humate, made according to the instructions, for 12 hours. After that, plant in cups with a prepared substrate consisting of peat and sand in a 2: 1 ratio. Dip the cuttings into the substrate to about half their length.

Then cover them with a film, you get a mini greenhouse. If condensation appears, ventilate every 2-3 days, otherwise the cuttings will rot. After about two weeks, the cuttings will take root, then the film can be removed. At this stage, the cuttings do not require any care other than moistening the soil.

Young seedlings are transplanted into open ground 2-3 months after the roots appear. During this time, they will have time to take root. In winter, be sure to cover the seedlings, their frost resistance is still low.

Hydrangea is also propagated by dividing the mouth. This process is very easy and even a novice gardener can handle it. In the spring, dig up a bush and divide into as many parts as you find rooting buds.

Sprinkle the separated roots with charcoal to prevent disease and plant them in prepared holes. New shoots will appear in the same year, but they will begin to bloom only from the next.

How to prepare hydrangea in autumn for winter

Preparing hydrangeas for winter is a very simple event. There are a lot of recommendations on the Internet that almost no one will follow. In fact, everything is not so difficult. All that needs to be protected from the plant is the roots from freezing, and the branches so that they are not broken by a mass of snow.

The roots can freeze because they lie near the surface of the soil, so the best option to protect them is to mulch with a layer of 10 centimeters of coniferous litter, sawdust, humus.

This simple event will help prevent freezing of the soil, and at the same time acidify it. If you are afraid that the branches will freeze, then you will cut them off anyway in the spring, since the hydrangea blooms on the shoots of the current year and last year's ones should be pruned.

In order not to break the branches with snow, they must be cut without fail, remove all the foliage. It is advisable to tie the bush with a rope so that it does not fall apart.

If your bush is young and you cover it, then try to do it as close to the ground as possible so that the bush is additionally sprinkled with snow. Paniculate hydrangeas do not need other shelters; their winter hardiness is quite high.

How to prune in autumn

As I said, autumn pruning is not difficult. This is a simple but very necessary operation. Watch a video on how to prune paniculate hydrangeas in the fall.

That's all for me. I hope you have found useful information on caring for this wonderful and very beautiful plant. I say goodbye to you, until we meet again.

Sincerely, Alexander

I dream of those times when not only in private gardens, but also on the streets and in city parks, instead of banal and very expensive flower beds from annuals, stylish perennial compositions will appear. And the main character in such compositions should be the hydrangea paniculata. This is one of the few shrubs that blooms from mid-summer until early winter. Even in cold and rainy October, the huge hydrangea inflorescences are still good, although touched by wilting.

Hydrangea is a very stylish shrub. It, like no other, is in tune with our climate, the discreet beauty of nature. And she is ready to put up with the gas pollution of megacities and harsh winters. Did you know that panicle hydrangea grows equally well both in the Crimea and in the Komi Republic? Of course, its winter hardiness is not unlimited, but the study of the plant in many botanical gardens in our country is increasingly expanding the geography of normal wintering of this species. For example, in the Leningrad region, a successful wintering of hydrangea was recorded in a year when the temperature dropped to -43. So far, the results of studying the cultivation of hydrangeas in the Altai Territory are disappointing: the aerial part freezes heavily, but in summer the shoots grow back, which gives gardeners hope to pick up varieties that can bloom profusely in a short summer.

Let's figure out what paniculate hydrangea likes and dislikes, how to grow powerful bushes with large and numerous inflorescences, how and when to cut, whether to cover.

Hydrangea in Latin - Hydrangea, i.e. in translation - a vessel for water. These are the key words in understanding what this plant needs. Regular and abundant watering. The hotter and drier the climate, the more water it consumes. Surely you, having arrived at the dacha after a hot week, found leaves hanging like rags on hydrangea branches. But it was worth pouring a couple of buckets of water under the bush, as the leaves acquired turgor.

So point one in the list of "what hydrangea loves" - water. Watering, including in late autumn, the so-called moisture-charging. Reduces the evaporation of water from the soil mulching the trunk circle. For hydrangeas, the most organic mulch is a mixture of pine needles and bark. When choosing a place and planting, keep in mind: hydrangea loves to drink water, but does not tolerate prolonged stagnation of water in the root zone at all.

Second point- well structured, but with a high content of clay particles soil. If you have light soil with a predominance of sand, then when planting under each bush, add at least a bucket of clay. But too heavy, clogged soils are harmful, so their structure is improved with sand. It is very important that the soil is highly fertile, so high-quality humus, compost is what you need to plant hydrangeas. And the most important condition is the acidic reaction of the soil. The best option is pH 5.1-5.5.

Third paragraph- protection from direct sunlight at noon. This is especially important in the southern regions. It has been noticed that in too open sunny places, the growth of hydrangea slows down, and the inflorescences become smaller even with good care.

Landing and care rules

Think carefully about where your hydrangea will grow, because you plant it every 30-40 years. And she will not be a small bush that touched you in the garden center. Hydrangea paniculata can grow up to 2.5 m in height and take 2 to 3 m in diameter. So the right place and a carefully prepared landing pit. As under a fruit tree, we put in it a bucket of humus, 200-250 g of superphosphate and 100-150 g of potassium sulfate. No ash, let alone lime! If the soil is alkaline or neutral, then add acidic peat.

It is better to plant a seedling with ACS in the spring, and in pots - at any time, but no later than mid-August. After planting, water abundantly and mulch with a layer of at least 6-8 cm.

A year after planting, fertilizing begins. In spring, urea is used (20 g per 10 liters of water), in summer - with a solution of mullein (only once!), And at the end of August, complex mineral fertilizer without nitrogen, chlorine and calcium. Such a diet affects the appearance of hydrangeas: large leaves, long inflorescences and many flowers. If chlorosis appears on the leaves, then it is urgent to do an analysis for acidity and, accordingly, add acidifiers to the water for irrigation (for example, 5-6 g of iron sulfate per 10 liters of water). And be sure to spray a couple of times on the leaves with a solution of ferovit.

Do not abuse organic top dressing and do not mulch the soil with humus. The best mulch is acid peat, pine needles and bark. Renew the mulch layer annually.

Hydrangea paniculata does not require shelter for the winter, but it is better to mulch very small plants in the first year after planting so that the upper buds do not freeze for the first time snowless frosts. And we have them often and quite severe. Yes, and the bark can burst on the shoots. For adult hydrangeas, a flaky (but not cracked!) bark is, in general, the norm, but in young shoots, even small cracks can cause warming.

Secateurs and steady hand

Imagine that you went under the knife of a plastic surgeon, and at the most crucial moment he “regretted” cutting off what so prevented you from being dazzlingly beautiful for complete happiness. Represented? And I can imagine your reaction.

So, hydrangeas for beauty are very important so that you do not "sorry" to cut off all unnecessary. Your hand should be firm, the pruner sharp, and there was a clear plan of action in your head. Only in this case, the plant will delight you with its abundant flowering.

First you need to decide how many trunks your hydrangea will be. Of course, it looks very impressive on a trunk 50-70 cm high, but this is a separate issue, how to form such a tree. But most of all, hydrangea in gardens is grown in the form of a shrub of 3-4 trunks. Therefore, all shoots growing below or parallel to the ground are cut into a ring.

In the year of planting, be sure to remove all inflorescences from a seedling less than 3 years old, cut off the shoots at a height of 2-3 pairs of leaves.

In the spring of the second year of planting, the young hydrangea must be cut off, leaving 3-4 pairs of leaves on each shoot.

In autumn, without delay, be sure to cut off all the inflorescences (marked in red). This will lighten the bush and protect it from sticking wet snow, which can damage both the bush itself and the buds. Follow this rule for the rest of the history of your bush.

In the spring, before the awakening of the kidneys, two types of pruning are carried out: sanitary and shaping.

Sanitary pruning involves cutting out all weak and frozen, broken and damaged shoots into a ring. Be sure to remove weak shoots in the center of the bush.

Formative pruning involves removing excess shoots in the root zone and shortening annual shoots (marked in blue). On each annual shoot, 3-5 pairs of buds are left. This technique will allow you to increase the number of inflorescences every year. It is known that a properly formed 6-year-old bush has at least 50-60 inflorescences, and after 6 years their number can exceed 300 pieces.

The old bush is periodically rejuvenated by removing a branch with perennial wood "on the stump". This allows a young replacement shoot to grow, which, by the way, will bloom in summer.

Panicled hydrangea is a favorite of many gardeners. Its bright spectacular inflorescences attract the attention of others and delight the eye. How to propagate a hydrangea bush is a question that interests both experienced gardeners and beginners.

Hydrangea is propagated in several ways:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• layering;
• children (shoots);
• dividing the bush.

The most popular option for breeding hydrangea paniculata is called the cutting method. It can be used for tree varieties, and for other types of hydrangeas. When using this method, all varietal qualities of the parent bushes are preserved.

Paniculata hydrangea

Hydrangea can be propagated almost all year round: in spring, summer, autumn, before winter. In winter, it is permissible to root petioles at home.

Features of summer cuttings

Propagation of hydrangea paniculata by cuttings in summer is considered the most effective. During this period, buds begin to form. Working hours: June 10-July 15.

1. It is necessary to choose green cuttings that have not yet become woody, have not bloomed. They must be healthy, strong, well developed. Use young stems with buds (1-3 pcs). Petioles are cut from them.
2. Seedlings planted under cans or film are aired every day. Watered 1 time in 3 days. In drought - daily.
3. Harvesting petioles is preferable early in the morning. So the stems retain the necessary moisture. Having cut off, they are immediately divided. If you plan to plant later, the shoots can be placed in water. The upper parts of the branches with buds must be cut off. A month later (after the 20th of August), the petioles will take root.

This is how panicled hydrangea cuttings are carried out in the summer.

Cuttings of hydrangea paniculata in summer

Features of autumn cuttings

To propagate hydrangeas in paniculate autumn, woody cuttings are taken. It is best to start cuttings after September 15th. You can use ordinary soil, consisting of peat and sand. It is important to create a favorable temperature, provide additional lighting, because the cultivation of young seedlings will take place in winter. Sprouts covered with jars should be watered at least 2 times a week. When irrigation occurs, it is advisable not to remove the shelter.

On a note! You can grow seedlings without jars and films. Then the plants are sprayed with a spray bottle twice a day.

Features of winter cuttings

In the autumn (second half of October) it is necessary to dig up the plants, transplant them into pots. Take it to the cellar, basement or greenhouse (the temperature should be from 0 to 5 degrees). If the bushes have retained the leaves, they are placed in a bright room. If the leaves have fallen off, they are transferred to a dark place.

In the fall, you need to dig up the plants and transplant them into pots.

Important! Do not immediately bring the plant into a hot room. This will give impetus to a sharp increase in its shoots. They can stretch a lot.

You should prepare a mixture for planting:

• compost (4 parts);
• peat (1 part);
• sand (1 part);
• soddy soil (2 parts).

Another option for soil mixture:

• sod land (4 parts);
• humus (2 parts);
• peat (1 part);
• sand (1 part).

In mid-January, you should move the hydrangea to a room where you need to maintain a temperature of 8-10 degrees. Now you need to transplant the bush (if you didn’t do it in the fall). It is necessary to pre-feed an adult plant with a mineral complex (Superphosphate - 10 g, Potassium and Ammonium nitrate - 5 g per bucket of water. At the end of February, young shoots will grow up, they will have 3-4 pairs of leaves. Then the cuttings can be cut and rooted.

In February, cuttings can be cut and rooted.

Features of spring cuttings

Panicle hydrangea can be propagated in the spring. It is necessary to cut cuttings before the start of the movement of juice in plants (March). For these purposes, use lignified branches growing on last year's bushes.

Note! Spring cuttings will bring double benefits. The bush will acquire the desired shape and multiply.

Cut branches are kept in water for 3-5 days. Then they are divided into several parts. 3-5 buds should remain on each fragment. Then they are placed in a container with loose, moist soil.

How to harvest, cut cuttings

For cuttings use the upper parts of the shoots. Each should have 2-3 sheets. It is better to collect them in the morning. Choose healthy, strong branches. Cuttings are cut from them, they should have 2 internodes. The stems are divided into fragments. With a sharp knife, a cut is made (90 degree angle) one cm below the first node. From above, cut 1 cm above (45 degree angle) the second point. The lower leaves are cut off, the upper ones are shortened by half a sheet.

How to cut cuttings

How to process planting material

The shoots are left in the solution for the formation of roots:

• Epin (2 ml / 2 liters of water) (soaked for 10 - 12 hours);
• HB101 preparation (1 - 3 drops / 1 liter of water) (for 30 hours);
• Kornevin, Zircon, Heteroauskin - use according to the instructions.

If there is no root stimulator, you can use a honey solution (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water). The cuttings are immersed by a third, kept for 12 hours. After removal, rinse with water.

rooting

The soil for planting is prepared in advance. Mix peat (2 parts), sand or leaf humus (1 part). Many use just coarse sand. Moisturize.

Important! Before planting the petioles, it is preferable to disinfect their sections with brilliant green or garden pitch.

It is necessary to plant the shoots at an angle of 45 degrees. They are deepened by 2-3 cm, leaving a space of 5 cm between them. They should not come into contact with each other and the ground. Then they are sprinkled with sand, a layer of 2 cm, sprayed with a spray bottle, covered with jars or film. In a month they should take root. Covers are removed.

rooting

It is possible to grow roots in water for 20-30 days. True, there is a danger that they will simply rot. When the roots are 3 cm, the shoots are planted in the ground.

Until the moment when the roots form in the seedlings, they are placed in a dark place. This will protect the young shoots from overheating. Comfortable temperature for plants during the day is 20-25 degrees, at night - 15-18 degrees. When the roots of the plants are 2-3 cm, they are seated in separate pots. The containers should be small (height 10 cm, same diameter).

During cuttings in the fall, professional gardeners recommend using clay pots. Air circulates well in them, excess moisture does not accumulate. Drainage is usually poured onto the bottom with a layer of 2–3 cm. Earth is poured over it.

Important! Do not allow the soil to dry out, regularly moisten (at least twice a week) seedlings. This is the main condition for proper cuttings. Air the seedlings every day.

Planting hydrangeas

For the winter, the plant should be protected from frost. The roots are sprinkled with dry foliage. Small supports are placed around the bush. Wrap with a film, spruce paws. Thus, the hydrangea is covered in the next two years. She needs to get used to it over time. When the bush blooms, it means that it has acquired frost resistance.

Hydrangea paniculata is an incredibly beautiful plant. Although cuttings are a rather troublesome business, it is worth it.

Hydrangea paniculata is one of the largest types of shrubs, growing in the form of strong and dense branches. There are also multi-stem trees among hydrangeas, reaching a height of 10 m, but most varieties stop growing when they reach 1.5-3 meters. The plant got its name from the name of the princess of the Holy Roman Empire Hortense. In Europe, this plant appeared at the end of the 18th century. It was brought by the English botanist J. Banks from Japan, and already in the 20th century, gardeners began to actively breed, by the middle of the century there were already about 100 of them.

Paniculata hydrangea in the garden differs from no less popular tree-like varieties mainly in the shape of inflorescences: they resemble a wide pyramid. Inflorescences, as a rule, consist of small and large flowers. At the same time, during flowering, they gradually change their color.

Hydrangea is an absolute favorite when it comes to decorating a summer cottage with flowers. For example, in Japan, the hydrangea is considered a miracle of nature, the inhabitants poetically call it the flower of the purple sun.

How to care for panicled hydrangea?

In general, the plant is unpretentious. It grows well in ecologically unfavorable areas. She is not afraid of marshy and clay soils. The shrub feels great in the shade and under the scorching rays of the sun. The bush is adapted for cultivation in any climate. Increased frost resistance allows you to grow flowers in the conditions of the Russian north. Some varieties can withstand temperatures down to -30 degrees.

Varietal diversity

The hydrangea shrub has many species, the total number of which, including the most popular varieties, has long passed the mark of a hundred units. Unconditional favorites that do not require endless care are the least whimsical varieties of hydrangeas:

Hydrangea garden paniculata, photos of its species and varieties are presented below:

reproduction

Hydrangea propagation can be done in the following ways:

• Seeds.
• cuttings.
• layering.
• Offspring.

Let's take a quick look at each of the methods:

In all of the above cases, when planting in the ground (except for seed propagation) at the very bottom of the hole, on the underside of the shoot, you first need to make an oblique incision a few centimeters long and insert a match into the incision. Such tissue damage will accelerate the formation of roots in this place. It remains to sprinkle the bases of the shoots with a light mixture of soil and peat, regularly moistening the ground.

Hydrangea paniculata: planting and care in the open field

Flower seedlings are planted just before the buds are set. 2-4 weeks before planting, completely clear the area of ​​plant debris and dig a shovel onto a bayonet. It is very important to choose the right place for the seedling on the site. Some varieties grow well in partial shade, while others need plenty of sun.

Paniculata hydrangeas are planted in open ground in early spring or September. It is still advisable to buy a panicled hydrangea in the spring, then it will take root very quickly and go into active growth.

If separate bushes are planned, then when planting hydrangeas, it is recommended to observe a distance between seedlings of 1.2-1.4 m. So the root system of each shrub will successfully grow and grow stronger. To achieve early flowering, you can reduce the distance between seedlings to 0.7-0.8 m, and after a few years thin out the grown bushes.

Next, prepare the soil mixture. The composition includes sheet and sod land, peat and humus in equal amounts. The most important thing is to water the plant before planting, to do this, take it out of the container, unravel the roots as much as possible, trim them a little, put the seedlings in a bucket of water for 5-6 hours. The roots need to be shortened a little before planting. On the plant itself, it is necessary to cut off annual shoots and leave only 3-5 buds on them. And for what year does hydrangea paniculata bloom after the first planting? New flowers will appear next year.

A mixture of manure with bone meal or ready-made is introduced into the wells prepared according to the size of the root system. For planting take hydrangea seedlings 3-4 years old. Place a seedling on a hill of soil mixture at the required depth and carefully fill the hole. Caring for panicled hydrangea in the open field is not at all difficult, because this shrub is very unpretentious. Grows everywhere except swamps and clean sand.

Last - tamp the soil with your palms. Next, pour the bush with 10 liters of warm, settled water and mulch. Sawdust, bark or peat are well suited as mulch. for panicled hydrangea is necessary in case of initially incorrect selection of soil and landing site. In no case should you add chalk, lime and wood ash.

The location of the shrub in the garden

Paniculata hydrangea lovers claim that it is quite simple to grow this plant on their site, its planting and care do not require special skills. The bush grows quite quickly, inflorescences are born on the shoots already in the first year after planting (in extreme cases, in the second year). But you should not plant it close to stone walls and fences, such a neighborhood leads to freezing of the bush in winter.

It is best to plant a hydrangea in such a way that at noon it is in partial shade. Under bright sunlight, the plant will not be very comfortable. Hydrangea in such conditions blooms later, and the flowering itself is not the most magnificent. Ideally, if the plant will be lit by the sun only in the morning or evening hours.

When to plant paniculate hydrangea in open ground? In early warm autumn in the garden, choose a site protected from the wind for hydrangeas. This shrub tolerates cold well, but if a strong draft is added to the frost, freezing of branches and flowering buds is possible.

One of the main activities for any gardener is planting in a certain place, choosing the right location where the plant will feel comfortable for a long time. Many people wonder where to plant paniculate hydrangea, in the shade or in the sun? Many of the species grow well and bloom even in the shade, but paniculate hydrangeas are best suited for sunny areas of the garden. Here it will grow, dominate and attract attention. In the shade, the plant does not fully reveal its beauty, its flowers lose saturation.

The plant prefers fertile clay or loamy soil. Does not develop in sandy soil. The soil for growing hydrangea paniculata should be acidic, so flowering will be plentiful, and the color of the flowers is bright. It is possible to acidify the soil by preliminary introducing semi-rotted needles, sawdust, brown peat into it.

Watering

Hydrangea is a very moisture-loving plant. The basic care of a hydrangea bush should begin with proper watering, it is best to use warm water that has previously settled for this. This bush does not tolerate drought very well, watering should be regular, and the soil in the root zone should always be moistened, only the top layer is allowed to dry, but nothing more.

Hydrangea paniculata, watering will require up to 30 liters. per square meter of soil around the bush. If the weather is rainy, volumes should be reduced. But the plant can do without watering, the hydrangea will not die in very dry seasons, but it will look completely nondescript.

When watering, it is good to add potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) to the water. You can also use citric or sulfuric acid by diluting a few tablespoons of it in water. It is advisable to carry out regular mulching of the soil under the shrub, sprinkling leaves and sawdust, which will retain moisture in the ground. The acidity of water for irrigation is recommended not higher than 5.5-6 PH. But remember that with strong watering, nutrients are washed out, and hydrangea is very demanding on nutrition (as we wrote about above).

Top dressing and fertilizers

For the active growth of hydrangea leaves, a large amount of nitrogen is needed. The first feeding is aimed at the formation of healthy and strong leaves and is carried out from the moment the first buds begin to germinate, in March.

Caring for your paniculate hydrangea in summer also requires top dressing, for this, ready-made chemical compounds are used. In addition to them, you can make organic compounds. It can also be diluted slurry or a solution of bird droppings. But with such nitrogen-containing fertilizers, you should be careful. An effective mixture in this case is urea and potassium sulfate. For 10 liters of water, you need 1 tablespoon of each ingredient. Consumption - 5 liters per 1 bush.

In general, paniculata hydrangea requires frequent feeding. If this is not done, it grows weakly and does not bloom. 2-3 times a month, you can water the bushes with a fermented infusion of cow dung (about 3 liters of water per bucket of manure). For re-irrigation, 1 liter of infusion is already bred in a bucket of water. This is a fertilizer for growing greens.

How to speed up the abundant flowering of hydrangea paniculata

It is necessary to apply complex mineral fertilizers for flowering. Nitrogen not only activates the growth of green mass, but also increases the size of the inflorescences. With a lot of nitrogen, they can become too large and the branches will bend under the weight. This will not add decorativeness to the bush.

At the beginning of the growing season (early spring), it is useful to apply the so-called green fertilizer (chopped young nettle diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10), but this method has not been conclusively confirmed.

Problems of growing hydrangea paniculata

Growing, planting and caring for any panicle hydrangea in the garden is associated with a lot of problems, as it is influenced by a lot of factors.

• The main problem of growing hydrangeas is meeting the requirements for soil acidity. Acidity is determined by a special litmus paper or pH test. If the pH is greater than 6, then it is best to mulch the soil with pine needles. You can also make ammonium sulfate.



• Another threat to plants of this variety is direct sunlight, as well as drying out of the soil. From this, the leaves quickly wither, flowering worsens.
• A small problem that can be encountered during the cultivation of panicled hydrangeas will be too thin branches that can break under the weight of inflorescences (especially if they are "overfed" with nitrogen). To cope with this problem, it is necessary to control the amount of fertilizer applied and, if necessary, prune too heavy flowers.



• If there is a lot of lime in the soil, the flower suffers from a lack of iron, which is necessary for normal life. In this case, you need to shed the soil with a solution of iron sulfate.
• The main thing is to monitor the condition of the leaves and the trunk itself after any use of the solution and top dressing, since the reason for the wilting of the shrub may be incorrectly identified.
• If the ground under the bush is very overheated, in order to solve this problem, you just need to lay a peat cushion or wood chips.



• Another problem can happen with panicled hydrangeas - yellow leaves. But at the same time, the color of the veins remains unchanged. This means that the plants are sick.

Preparing for winter

Panicled hydrangea care in autumn, on the eve of the onset of cold weather, involves sheltering the plant for the winter. Unfortunately, not a single type of hydrangea can winter in our area without warming (although the bush tolerates frost very well), so preparing garden hydrangeas for winter should be thorough.



Advice! Preparation should begin around mid-September: first of all, completely stop watering the plants, then wait a couple of weeks until the shoots become woody. Just before the start of frost, only the topmost leaves should be left, they serve as protection for the apical flower buds.



2. The second shelter option: the shrub is covered with a frame (often self-made) made of metal or plastic mesh, or it is an ordinary wooden case. The distance between the frame and the bush is filled with dry foliage. From above, the entire structure is covered with roofing material or dense polyethylene.