Do-it-yourself Ariston dishwasher installation. Built-in dishwasher installation: step-by-step installation instructions. Dishwashing modes

In the article we will tell you how to choose the right place to install the dishwasher, in what order to connect it. After the dishwasher is delivered to your home, you can immediately connect and start it yourself, without overpaying for the services of a master.

How to install a dishwasher in the kitchen

There are two options for installing PMM: in a finished kitchen or in a pre-designated place in a kitchen set. Dishwashers vary in type and dimensions:

  • Compact. Holds from 3 to 5 sets of dishes. Dimensions 50x60x50 cm. Mounted on the countertop or under the sink.

  • Narrow. Width 45 cm, capacity from 6 to 10 sets. It can be fully or partially built-in.

  • Full size. Dimensions 65x65x90 cm, holds from 10 to 15 sets of dishes. Can be built-in or freestanding.

Usually, manufacturers in any kitchen set provide a place to place appliances. For this, the dimensions of a narrow dishwasher are taken, 5-10 cm are added to them from all sides. If your kit does not have a special cabinet, then it is better to choose a freestanding machine. You can install it in any convenient place, even between the cabinets.

When choosing a free-standing PMM, you need to take into account that the appearance of the case is combined with the design of the kitchen.

If you have prepared drawings in advance for placing a Samsung, Miele or other brand dishwasher, there will be no installation problems. Otherwise, for embedding, pick up a cabinet near the sink. Keep in mind that the distance from the PMM case to the back wall must be at least 5 cm for normal ventilation.

If you have a small family, and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe kitchen does not allow you to install a full-sized model, choose the desktop option. You can put it under the sink, and the connection rules do not differ from other models.

  • Before buying built-in appliances, measure the dimensions of the kitchen cabinet.
  • Dishwasher legs can be adjusted in height. Use a level to level the machine. Some Hotpoint Ariston, Whirlpool models are very sensitive to tilt even as low as 2 degrees. This may affect their future work.
  • Mount the machine near a sink. This will make it easier to connect the drain and water without having to extend the hoses. Experts say that lengthening the hoses can lead to leakage, as well as create a large load on the drain pump.

  • When building into furniture, install a metal plate under the countertop to protect the wood from steam. In built-in models, the plate is included.

Take a look at the instruction manual. The order of installation and embedding of the dishwasher is indicated there. Included are templates for hanging the door.

  • To connect the equipment to the network, a separate moisture-resistant socket is used. Do not connect with extension cords or tees.

Independent connection of the dishwasher

It is recommended to immediately install the machine on site, and then deal with the connection. But in the case of the built-in model, it is more convenient to first connect the hoses, and then mount the machine in a niche or cabinet. How to install an embedded PMM, read our separate article.

What you need to connect

Accessories:

  • euro socket with a moisture-resistant housing and grounding;
  • copper three-core cable (for organizing wiring);
  • stabilizer;
  • brass tee with stopcock;
  • clutch;
  • corner tap;
  • extension cord and additional hose;
  • siphon with two outlets (for connecting a dishwasher and washing machine at the same time);
  • hose "Aquastop" (if not available);
  • fum tape for sealing joints;
  • filter;
  • clamps, gaskets.

Instruments:

  • pliers;
  • screwdriver;
  • wrench;
  • level.

Organization of electrical wiring

The dishwasher cord is specially made short. The European type plug can be connected to a special socket, which is located no higher than 45 cm from the floor.

Do-it-yourself replacement of the plug on the dishwasher will void the warranty.

How to organize the electrical connection correctly:

  1. Drill a channel in the wall, lay a copper wire.
  2. Arrange a moisture-resistant socket with grounding.
  3. Connect the outlet through a 16-amp difavtomat. For safety, it is recommended to install a voltage stabilizer. How to choose a dishwasher stabilizer, read in a separate article.

Plumbing work

You know how to install and connect the electrical part of the machine. Any model of PMM Korting, Hansa, Gorenje, Beko, Ikea, Ariston is connected to the water supply in the same way. The easiest solution is to connect through a mixer. But if you install the equipment far from the sink, then the method of tapping into a cold water pipe is suitable.

To connect to a water pipe:

  1. Using a grinder, cut a piece of pipe.
  2. Install the release clutch.
  3. Screw a tap with a shut-off valve onto the coupling.
  4. Connect the dishwasher hose to the faucet outlet.

Through mixer:

  1. Disconnect the mixer hose from the pipe outlet.
  2. Install brass tee.
  3. Connect a mixer to one outlet.
  4. To the other - a coarse filter and the end of the inlet hose.

Now take care of the water.

Drainage work

Where to connect the drain? There are also two options to choose from here:

  • Directly to the sewer.
  • through the siphon.

To connect to the sewer, it is enough to install an adapter on the outlet, to which you can connect the drain hose of the dishwasher and washing machine. Connections are carefully sealed.

When installing through a siphon:

  • Remove the old and install a new siphon.
  • Connect the dishwasher drain hose to the outlet.
  • Be sure to fasten the connection with a clamp. With strong pressure, the hose can be torn from its place, which will lead to leakage.

Observe the correct spacing and bend of the hose when draining. This will help avoid the siphon effect (see diagram below).

As you can see, you can organize the installation of PMM "Hans", "Burning" and other brands yourself. When the work is finished, run the test program without dishes to check the strength of the connections and the operation of the nodes. How to run your dishwasher for the first time, read the article.

The video will help you install the dishwasher yourself:

Installation and connection of the dishwasher can be divided into 3 stages:

  • preparation and fixing of built-in appliances in a special niche
  • electrical connection
  • connection to water supply and sewerage

Let us consider in detail, with an indication of common errors, exactly the stages of installation to engineering networks and communications.

Electrical connection

To connect the dishwasher to a 220V network, you will need not so many materials:



A dishwasher (PMM) is not a particularly powerful consumer of electricity, such as a hob (from 7 kW and above). Its power usually does not exceed 2.0-2.5 kW.

Modern models for energy consumption correspond to the class “A” or “A +”. That is, for a year, approximately 220 kW will run on your meter.

Despite this, it is still desirable to connect the PMM, at the repair stage, to lay an independent cable line in a separate gate.

If your repair has been over for a long time, and after buying the equipment you don’t feel like chasing the walls again and spoiling the wallpaper, then you can get by with the existing outlet. Just be sure to make sure that it is protected by an RCD.

Connecting a dishwasher through a simple modular machine is extremely dangerous.

The socket should be placed at a convenient height - up to 90 cm from the floor level.

At the same time, place it on the right or left side of the washer, but not behind it.

Consider the fact that the total length of the cord with a plug for this technique rarely exceeds 1.0-1.5 m. Based on this, and choose a place for an outlet, so that you do not have to subsequently use an extension cord.

The socket itself must of course be grounded. But not everyone has this very grounding. Especially in apartments of high-rise buildings of the old fund.
Therefore, many use the usual ones, and everything seems to be working fine. However, the level of protection will no longer be sufficient.

Roughly speaking, if there is a ground contact and there is current leakage, then you will not even be able to turn on the RCD. The consequences of these leaks, even small ones, can be quite lethal.

With a simple socket, the shutdown will occur only at the moment when you touch the case, which is already energized.

And this same electric shock, at least at the initial moment, you will still feel on yourself.

Connection to water supply and sewerage

Connecting the dishwasher to the water supply can be done in two ways.

The first is when you are at the stage of construction or overhaul, and you can afford to lay individual pipes, ditch walls, etc.

The second - when you have already installed the entire kitchen and completed all the finishing work. At the same time, you bought a dishwasher and you need to connect all this somewhere, to the existing water supply and sewerage system with minimal alterations and hassle.

Installation of new pipes

For major installation, a diverse range of materials will be required:





When installing pipes, the socket method is used. To do this, you need a special apparatus for soldering polypropylene pipes.

The total footage of the pipe and the number of fittings are selected individually. It depends on how far the dishwasher is from the cold water collector.

To begin with, mark the route where pipes will be laid from the distribution manifold to the installation site of the PMM.

After that, cut the required depth with a wall chaser.

Next, connect PPR connectors with a union nut to one of the manifold outlets.

Cut off a piece of pipe so that it lasts until the first turn or corner. At the same time, do not forget to leave a margin for connections of 15 mm on each side.

Connect the pipe and fittings by soldering, controlling the position of the elbow.

After connecting all the pipes along the marked area, at the very end, mount the water outlet. Be sure to mount it on the wall.

Next, screw a ¾ inch male elbow into the water socket.

Mount the water supply hose on the square.

The AquaControl or AquaStop system, which it may be equipped with, must protect against leakage in the event of a breakdown and automatically stop the water supply.

Turn on the water and check the entire system. If everything is fine, you can finally close up the strobe.

Drain connection and installation in the kitchen opening

It remains to connect the drain hose from the PMM to the sewer outlet through an adapter cuff of the appropriate diameter.

Do not forget that the drain pipe must be mounted at an angle, with a 1cm height difference per 1m length.

And the drain hose itself has a bend at a level of 70 cm from the floor. Therefore, it is attached to the top of the dishwasher, and not at all so that it does not hang out.

It remains to connect the washer to the outlet and check the performance of the entire system. Then fix it in a specially prepared opening.

By the way, some models, for example, Siemens, differ in non-standard sizes. Therefore, think over the kitchen furniture in advance.

When installing in the opening, do not forget about the metal plate that must be nailed to the bottom of the tabletop (for the model from Bosch).

This thing is mounted along the very edge and is a vapor barrier, such as a screen. With it, the countertop will not swell from steam.

For some reason, many people throw it away and replace it with aluminum tape, fixing it both on the countertop and on the side walls of the machine.

Electrolux, instead, comes with something like a piece of rubber that sticks on the sticky side.

After installation and connection, the first wash should be carried out without dishes, using powder or special cleaning tablets.

Such a procedure should destroy all bacteria and deposits formed after long-term storage in the store.

Connection via sink siphon and faucet.

There is a simpler option for connecting a dishwasher, in which there is no need to pull separate pipes for draining and supplying water.

It only takes two things to change:


It differs in that its design already has a place for connecting a drain hose - a fitting, and sometimes two.

Of course, it is possible to redo the sewer drain by installing an additional outlet and a sealant there with a pipe.

The whole thing is inserted by hand, without the use of any special tools.

However, do not forget that connecting dishwashers and washing machines directly to the sewer pipe may be accompanied by unpleasant odors.

Experts advise making such a connection through a check valve.

Kinking or bending the hose at a height, which should act as an alternative to the valve, helps only with the constant use of technology. Of course, the water will not go back to you.

However, if the system stands for a couple of weeks without work and water (for example, in a country house or in a country house), everything will dry out and the stench in the kitchen will be very sensitive.


Through it, the actual water will flow into the machine. It is installed instead of the standard connector that goes from cold water to the mixer.

Screw this tee to the hose or cold water supply pipe.

Next, change the siphon. Unscrew the screw from above, holding the siphon itself from below so that it does not fall.

Disconnect the drain from the sewer. To do this, simply pull it towards you with force. It should come out of the rubber retainer.

Assemble a new siphon from the components, not forgetting the gaskets and mount it in place of the old one.

Connect the flexible drain pipe to the sewer pipe. All that remains is to connect the drain hose of the dishwasher to the siphon tube through a special adapter.

Included with this adapter, be sure to look for a valve, it blocks the reverse flow of water.

Fill the sink with water and check that there are no leaks anywhere.

Mistakes and rules

1 Connecting the dishwasher in the 220V shield from the machine.

Remember that all appliances and devices in your house and apartment, interconnected with water and electricity - a boiler, instantaneous water heater, washing machine, including a dishwasher, must be connected through:

There should not be any simple modular automata, and even more so “traffic jams”. Reliability of protection and your safety in the event of an electrical breakdown of the wiring should come first.

2 Mounting the dishwasher very close to the wall.

As a result, the supply or drain hoses may become kinked, impairing water circulation. The display will constantly show an error.

And you won't guess why. Therefore, the minimum distance from the wall must be at least 5cm.

3 The machine must be on a level surface.

If installed unevenly, you will have problems with the quality of washing dishes. There may even be a water leak.

For example, Electrolux models allow a deviation from the horizontal of no more than 2 degrees. The whole thing is checked by the building level.

And it is adjustable by twisting and twisting the legs.

The rear leg of most models is adjustable from the front. By means of a special screw in the lower central part.

When adjusting the legs, according to the instructions, the machine must be raised to the maximum so that there are no gaps between it and the table top.

4 Installation of a 220V socket under the sink.

Although this may seem like the closest and most convenient place to connect the power plug, try to avoid such a connection.

The slightest blockage and subsequent leakage guarantee you a short circuit and a fire. For the same reason, it is not recommended to place the extension cord directly behind the dishwasher.

If the factory cord was not enough to reach a stationary outlet, then connect the carrier away from the hoses, at the maximum possible distance.

5 Hot water connection.

Remember that not every PMM can be connected to a hot water supply system. Be sure to study the instructions, otherwise the device will fail much earlier than its warranty period.

In addition, the temperature of the water in this system may be higher than that for which the sink is designed (usually no more than 60 degrees). Even if she supports such a connection.

Also, keep in mind that hot water in our pipes is dirtier than cold water. Therefore, experts recommend connecting it to cold water.

It makes sense to connect to a hot one only if you have your own heating and a gas boiler. Otherwise, it will be a penny savings on electricity, which will ruin an expensive dishwasher. 6 Extension of the water supply hose.

It may well happen that a factory hose with a standard length of no more than 1.5 meters is not enough for you. Therefore, you will have to buy more footage.

Most importantly, do not bite off, unscrew or throw away the main one. It can come with leak protection.

Wires are hidden inside it and when a rush occurs, a circuit occurs and the valve installed at the end automatically shuts off the flow.

Therefore, when lengthening, simply increase the existing one.

7 Linen for thread sealing

If you are not a plumber, and do not know how to properly and how much flax is wound to seal threaded joints, then it is better for you not to use it.

You may encounter this when reworking the connection of the dishwasher to the siphon and installing the tee to supply cold water.

Too much flax will eventually swell and the flimsy union nut may burst, resulting in a flood.

In such places, it is better to use a factory rubber gasket or fum tape.

Everyone who buys household appliances tends to choose one that will work without problems for a very, very long time. If you have bought such a miracle as Ariston dishwashing machines, we will be happy to help you connect it correctly.

Everyone who buys household appliances tends to choose one that will work without problems for a very, very long time. How to install a dishwasher? If you have bought such a miracle as Ariston dishwashing machines, we will be happy to help you connect it correctly. Our service center offers the services of certified craftsmen for setting up, connecting and repairing various types of rubble equipment.
The connection of all types of Ariston dishwashers is carried out by a specialist of the highest rank, which guarantees the quality of installation and the absence of problems during operation. In their work, our craftsmen use professional tools and high-quality consumables of domestic and foreign production. We will quickly make a tie-in for water intake and discharge, run a separate cable from the shield to power the machine, install all the necessary taps, brackets and electrical outlets, and set the machine clearly in level. , and built-in household appliances, and we do it equally quickly and professionally.

The cost of work is quite low - no more than 3,000 rubles, and the speed and quality of work are worthy of contacting us. Our service center also offers repair of Ariston dishwashers. If your assistant began to act up and work intermittently, do not delay, immediately contact us. It is possible that the problem is quite minor, and it can be fixed fairly quickly. But even if the breakdown is major, you should not worry - the repair of the Ariston dishwasher in our center will not take much time, since we always have spare parts and accessories in stock. This ensures that you do not have to wash the dishes yourself for too long. We will do our best to make your dishwasher always happy!

Quick Guide to the Guide

ARISTON L 63, L6063, LD6063, LL 6065, LL 64 - 0

This manual explains everything about your new dishwasher in a popular way. Here you will find a lot of useful tips and quick tips that will help you achieve the best results when washing dishes and prolong the life of your dishwasher.

1. Installation and connection.

Installation is a very important operation, which largely determines how your dishwasher will work.
Be sure to make sure:
1) the connection to the electrical network complies with the standards;
2) the inlet and drain hoses are connected correctly;
3) the dishwasher is leveled - this affects its service life and quality of work.

2. The control panel is at your disposal.

Learn how your dishwasher works so you can use it better. In this chapter you will find a description of the controls and the interior of the machine.

3. How to load the dishwasher.

This chapter contains useful tips to help you load your dishwasher correctly and rationally.

4. How to start the dishwasher.
After loading the dishes, you must select the correct program and measure out the correct doses of detergent and rinse aid. The information given on these pages will help you master all the stages of dishwashing.

5. Salt - important and helper.

The correct use of salt and the correct dosage of salt will help you keep your dishwasher in good condition, get better washing results and avoid scale formation.

6. Tips and suggestions for savings.

7. Possible malfunctions and ways to eliminate them.

Before calling a technician, read this chapter: you can solve many problems yourself. In difficult situations, immediately call specialists from an authorized service center.

8. Safety is a good habit.

Read this chapter carefully - here you will find useful information on the safe installation, use and maintenance of the dishwasher.

9. Special service and care.

Periodically, once a month, spend a little time cleaning the filter and atomizers. This chapter will teach you how to do it.

10. Keep your dishwasher in order.

Follow a few rules that you will find here and your dishwasher will be in perfect condition as a result.

11. Specifications.

Technical indicators of all your equipment in accordance with the rules and regulations.

12. Ariston is with you even after the purchase.

Ariston offers an after-sales service for its products, guaranteeing professional assistance and the use of original spare parts. For more information, call an authorized service center.

13. Accessories and professional care products for household appliances.

A full range of professional cleaning products and accessories will help to create a special shine in your home.

Electrical connection

ATTENTION: the equipment must be grounded!

I. The machine must be connected to the electrical mains using a two-pole socket with earthing contact (the socket is not supplied with the machine). The phase (preferably also neutral) wire must be connected through a circuit breaker designed for a maximum current (operating current) of 16 A, and having a response time of not more than 0.1 s.

II. If there is a socket with a grounding contact near the intended installation site of the machine, having a three-wire cable connection with copper conductors with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm (or aluminum conductors with a cross section of at least 2.5 sq. mm), the electrical network is not finalized. In the absence of the specified socket and wiring, they must be installed.

III. It is not allowed to lay grounding with a separate wire.

Before plugging in the machine, make sure that:
1) the voltage and frequency of the mains current correspond to the data of the machine (see the rating plate on the inside of the equipment door);
2) the electrical network (wiring), withstands the maximum load of the connected equipment;
3) socket and plug of the same type;
4) the socket is grounded in accordance with the safety standards described in this section of the instruction (grounding is allowed with a working zero, provided that the protective line does not have a break and is connected directly to the bypass of any devices (for example, an electric meter).

Trouble-shooting

Any problems?

Machine does not start
Make sure that:
■ the water tap is open;
■ the inlet hose is connected correctly;
■ the water supply in the house is not shut off;
■ sufficient water pressure;
■ the inlet hose is not bent;
■ the filter on the inlet hose is not clogged;
■ the door is closed tightly.

Dishes not washed well
Make sure that:
■ detergent is loaded into the dispenser in the right amount;
■ the washing program corresponds to the type of dishes loaded;
■ the flexible inlet hose filter and the fine filter are not clogged;
■ nozzles rotate freely.

The machine does not drain water
Make sure that:
■ the drain hose is not bent;
■ the sewerage system is not clogged.

Lime scale or a white film remains on the dishes
Make sure that:
■ the lid of the salt container is closed tightly;
■ The amount of rinse aid is sufficient.

Do not use the services of persons not authorized by the Manufacturer.
When repairing, require the use of original spare parts.

dishwasher operation types of dishwashers + how to install a dishwasher Processed

For most people, the attitude towards dishwashers is still quite wary - is it worth buying expensive equipment, if washing the dishes, in principle, is easy and by hand. However, if we recall the very recent past, then about the same was said about automatic “washers”, about food processors, even about TVs at the dawn of the advent of remote controls, and now it’s hard to imagine normal life without it. You get used to good and convenient quickly, so many owners who have already installed a dishwasher in their kitchen will never want to lose such a “convenience”.

Others are following suit, and dishwashers are increasingly becoming an attribute of the modern kitchen. However, this is not at all the kind of household appliances that you can simply unpack, plug into a power outlet and immediately start using it. In addition to the rather complex electromechanical “stuffing” and automation, such an apparatus, to a certain extent, of course, is also a plumbing fixture. Therefore, it is extremely important to correctly connect the dishwasher to the water supply and sewerage. "Amateur" in this matter is not welcome - you will have to comply with a number of specific requirements. Let's try to understand this in more detail.

It must be assumed that if the owners nevertheless decided to buy a dishwasher, then they have already thought out the place of its installation in advance. In general terms, it depends on which model is more to your taste - compact desktop or built-in kitchen furniture. Accordingly, there may be serious differences in the installation and connection of the device to communications.

In both cases, the installation site of the machine is tried to be as close as possible to the area of ​​​​the kitchen sink. This is explained simply - it becomes possible to connect the device to utilities without resorting to a complicated procedure for inserting into pipes - it will be quite enough for those connections and assemblies that provide water supply to the mixer and drain it from the sink into the sewer. Lengthening the regular hoses of the dishwasher, especially the drain hose, is not welcome, since the capabilities of the pumping pump are limited, and you should not overload it, so as not to cause rapid wear.

However, such placement is not at all a dogma - you can also place the dishwasher in a more convenient place, from the point of view of the owners, but in such a way that, within the radius of the length of the regular hoses, there is the possibility of tapping into the corresponding sewers (this example will also be considered in the publication ), or you will have to think over the laying of an additional section of such pipes specifically for the purpose of connecting the device.

Of course, a power supply line of the appropriate section must be connected to the future installation site of the dishwasher, and a separate outlet must be installed, always with a ground loop. The use of extension cords should be completely excluded. Water, high humidity and electricity - already quite a dangerous "neighborhood", so no connivance like: "Petya is connected like that - and it's okay" - is absolutely unacceptable.

The electrical supply of the kitchen is a matter of great importance!

Distinctive features of any kitchen are not only the high level of humidity and the constant use of water, but also, perhaps, the largest power consumption of the electrical appliances installed in it. Refrigerator, microwave, washing machine, dishwasher, extractor hood, electric stove and oven, and that's not counting the lighting and small appliances! How to properly organize the power supply of the kitchen is described in detail in the article on our portal dedicated to.

The place for installation must be prepared - there is an appropriate niche for inserting the desired dimensions or free space on the table top for desktop installation. The base must provide a reliable position of the device, in a strictly horizontal position, supported by all the racks in order to avoid play or excessive vibration. Each model of dishwasher has its own requirements for site preparation, the technical documentation describes the installation, the kit usually includes all the necessary fasteners.


There is one more nuance of preparing for the installation of the machine - it must be taken into account in advance. Many models on the back of the case have power cable and hose outlets offset to one side. Thus, the permissible distance to the connection points may be different to the left and right of the dishwasher. Usually this feature is also indicated by the manufacturer in the technical documentation.


Before undertaking an independent installation of a dishwasher, the owner must carefully assess his capabilities and skills. If there are any doubts about one's own abilities, it is better to invite an experienced master plumber who has positive recommendations (a considerable number of frank "shabashniks" work in this field). The fact is that a violation of the installation rules may well lead to the termination of the manufacturer's warranty. Often, in large salons-shops, branded installation is practiced, for a low price, and sometimes even completely free - as one of the ways to stimulate consumer activity. This question should be immediately clarified when buying.

In the event that such a service is not provided, and calling the wizard is seen as a significant extra cost, then there is nothing impossible in self-installation. And if you “bracket” the already mentioned power line and the features of installing the device in a niche, then the main stage of the process is the correct connection of the dishwasher to the water supply and sewerage.

The sequence of steps, and is there always a need for a fixed connection

These steps can be carried out in any order. By and large, preparation for connection will bring more difficulties - installation of all the elements necessary for this. And, in fact, switching the hoses coming out of the dishwasher with water supply and sewerage will be the final step, which is performed almost simultaneously, along with the final installation of the appliance in place.

You can immediately make a reservation about one point. Desktop dishwashers, in principle, can sometimes do without a fixed connection to communications. In this case, the water supply hose is connected directly to the spout (there are special adapters for this), and the drain hose is lowered and fixed in the sink bowl.

Dishwasher


Sometimes such a scheme is presented almost as an outstanding advantage - they say that the owners have the opportunity to economically use the countertop space, taking it out of storage and installing the dishwasher only as needed.

Let me disagree with these "merits":

  • First, it is unlikely that such owners will be found who will carry massive equipment back and forth. This is simply inconvenient, and it will not benefit an expensive device. And to use the dishwasher from time to time, "on holidays" - so why then buy it at all? She should become a faithful assistant in the kitchen, and not at all the subject of the "secret pride" of her owners.
  • Secondly, from frequent connections and disconnections of the water supply hose, not a single connection will last long - neither threaded nor socketed. This is not very good for either - extra loads on the spout make it loose.
  • Thirdly, the drain hose from the dishwasher lowered into the sink bowl conceals a certain danger. Inaccurate movement, sudden pressure, childish prank - all this can lead to the hose jumping out of the sink with all the ensuing (literally) consequences.
  • And fourth, it's just inconvenient. Simplifying their work during the initial installation of the device, the owners greatly complicate their further operation. The operation of the dishwasher will require constant monitoring, and in addition, while the washing process is in progress, the kitchen sink is practically “paralyzed”, which may be required at this time for other needs.

So, the best solution would still be a stationary connection to the water supply and sewerage, regardless of the type of model. Moreover, there is no tangible difference in the order of the work.

Connecting the dishwasher to the water supply

Let's start by connecting the water supply.

For starters, a little note. There is an opinion that in order to save money, it is more profitable to connect a dishwasher to a hot water supply pipe, they say, expensive electricity will not be spent on heating water to the temperature required by the washing program.

Indeed, some models of dishwashers support this option. Moreover, there are even machines that provide for connection to two mains at the same time - cold and hot water supply.


All this must be indicated in the product passport. Connecting the machine to hot water, if this possibility is not specified by the manufacturers, is prohibited. The electronics of the device may not understand this, and such amateur performance often ends with the “departure” of the programmed dishwashing algorithms.

But even if such an opportunity to choose between hot and cold water supply is provided, almost all masters unanimously recommend not to experiment, and limit themselves to the usual connection to cold water. There are a number of logical explanations for this.

- Firstly, the quality of hot water is very often far from ideal.

- Secondly, it happens that the temperature of the water in the hot water supply exceeds the required heating level set for the dishwasher. It seems to be nothing terrible, but this again can “mislead” the software control unit of the device.

- Thirdly, it is no secret to anyone that problems with the supply of hot water happen many times more often than with cold water, and in the summer, during the period of repair and maintenance work in boiler houses, there can be long shutdowns. It turns out that in such situations, you will have to switch to manual dishwashing or urgently switch to cold supply. Isn't it too troublesome?

- And fourthly, in matters of economy - everything is also not so obvious. Modern dishwashers of class A and above are very efficient in both water and electricity, and should not “break a hole” in the budget due to electricity bills. On the other hand, if the apartment is equipped with water meters, then the consumption of water for washing dishes will have to be paid at the “hot” rate, which is also rather big.

Of course, it is up to the owner to decide, but good advice is to connect it to cold water.

Now, actually, about the connection itself. There may be several options here.

BUT. The simplest solution is when the dishwasher is installed and the length of its hoses makes it possible to connect to a pipe that has a flexible hose connected to the kitchen

To do this, all you need from the tools is an adjustable wrench, sealing winding, and you will need to purchase a special tee with a tap designed specifically for such purposes.


Such a tee has a ½ inch “female” thread for packing on the water supply pipe (pos. 1), from the opposite edge - a ½ inch “male” thread (pos. 2) for reconnecting the flexible mixer supply, that is, it provides a through passage of water. The side outlet has a ¾ inch thread (item 3) ideal for connecting dishwasher or washing machine hoses. The tap (pos. 4) makes it possible to open and close the water supply in this direction as needed.

Connecting will not be difficult.

  • The valve for the general supply of cold water to the apartment is closed. Next, you can open any faucet (best located closest to floor level) to relieve excess pressure in the cut-off section of the home plumbing.
  • Further, with the help of a wrench, the nut of the flexible connection of the mixer is unscrewed, the threaded part of the pipe is released. If necessary, the remnants of the old winding are removed from it.
  • The next step is winding the sealing winding, in the direction of tightening the nut. For these purposes, an FUM tape can be used, but a more reliable connection is sealed with ordinary linen tow coated with a special Unipak type paste.

  • A tee is tightly screwed onto the wound thread. When tightening, make sure that the side outlet with a tap is in a convenient position for connecting the dishwasher hose.

Here we can immediately note one important point. Many modern dishwashers are equipped with an “aqua-stop” system, which has a solenoid valve that will instantly shut off the water supply to the hose if there are signs of leakage (pressure drop). The body of this valve is quite large in size, and is located exactly on the side of the hose that connects to the water pipe.


This means that both in preparation for work, and already specifically during the installation of the tee, it is necessary to take into account how this “aqua-stop” block will rise, whether there will be enough space for it.

  • After the tee is installed, you can immediately install the flexible hose of the kitchen faucet in a new place, if necessary, changing the rubber ring gasket.
  • The tap on the tee is switched to the “closed” position, and after that you can open the general water supply - it will immediately be possible to check the assembly for leaks, and if necessary, tighten it.

  • The last step is to screw on the plastic nut of the dishwasher hose. It has its own o-ring, and no rewinding is required. Twisting is done without the use of any tool - a fairly well-applied hand effort.

On this, in fact, the option of connecting to the water supply directly under the kitchen sink can be considered completed. But it is worth paying attention to one more nuance.


The use of a tee scheme will be convenient if one additional draw-off point is connected. However, in practice, the space under the sink is often much more loaded. For example, hoses of a washing machine and dishwasher can be connected here, drinking water is installed, and a flowing water heater (column) or boiler is often connected.

Under such conditions, the tee system does not justify itself - a complex and heavy structure of tees and adapters is formed under the sink, surrounded by a "web" of hoses and flexible connections, which creates considerable difficulties both for control and for carrying out any preventive or repair work. It will be much more convenient to install a small collector from below, for 4 ÷ 5 outlets, connect it to a water pipe, and from it already conduct switching to all points of water intake.

Such a collector can be purchased ready-made - metal or polypropylene. For those who have at their disposal a machine for welding PP pipes, it will not be difficult to make a collector of the desired configuration from polypropylene tees very quickly - this is often even more profitable.

Dishwasher


In this case, to connect the dishwasher, it is no longer a through tee that is purchased, but an adapter with a tap.


The collector is easy to securely fix on the wall surface (with clamps or dowels), and all branched switching in the space under the sink will take on an organized look. In addition, the interdependence of connected devices operating simultaneously will be reduced to a minimum - with a tee scheme, opening water at one draw-off point usually entails a pressure drop on others.


B. The second option - the length of the hoses to the sink is not enough, it is impractical or impossible to increase them due to the peculiarities of the arrangement of kitchen furniture, but a cold water pipe passes near the installation site of the dishwasher.

The principle is simple - it is necessary, after shutting off the water, to cut a small section of the pipe, and install a tee in its place. The faucet already mentioned above is packed to the perpendicular outlet of the tee, and the dishwasher hose is connected to it.

The execution of such an alteration depends on the material of the pipe.

  • If it is a metal-plastic pipe, then there is no difficulty. A fragment is cut out, and a tee with press fittings is put in its place, for packing which a set of wrenches is enough. Next - the installation of a crane with a conventional winding - and the node is ready to connect the device.

  • It is not much more difficult to crash into a polypropylene pipe, however, this will already require a special welding machine. Of course, it is unprofitable to purchase it because of three or four joints, but usually such a device is easy to rent for a day or two, it is not so expensive.

A welding machine for polypropylene pipes is a reliable home helper.

To be honest, it never hurts to have your own inexpensive equipment for welding polypropylene pipes - it can bulge in various situations, it will allow you to easily and cheaply upgrade home communications. As it is right - in a special publication of our portal. And another article will help you learn quickly and easily.

When welding polypropylene on a previously assembled section, a certain backlash of the pipe is necessary in order to be able to bring mating parts into the soldering iron from both sides. This is not always possible, so it’s easier to resort to boiling out two “American” union nuts, and between them already mark a regular brass tee with a tap packed on it to connect the dishwasher hose.

fum tape


  • The most difficult thing will be if you need to crash into a steel pipe.

- You can cut a section, cut the threads on the remaining ends, and mount a tee from it, either according to the principle of driving, or also using "American women". The disadvantage is the difficulty with threading, as a special tool is required.

- Another option is to install the so-called repair clip (shroud tee).


Such a product allows you to crash into a steel pipe in almost any convenient place on a straight section. The clip with rubber seals is installed on the pipe in the desired position, tightly tightened with bolts. Then the pipe wall is carefully drilled through the hole in the tee. Further, everything is simple - packing the tap and connecting the hose, as usual.


The method is quite simple, but, to be honest, it is not particularly praised. First, the pipe body is weakened. Secondly, cases of the beginning of leaks in this particular place are known, and it will be very difficult to eliminate them. And thirdly, a hole drilled in a pipe often becomes a weak spot in terms of clogging.

AT. Finally, the third option is when the dishwasher is located far from the cold water pipe.

To increase the length of the hoses is to increase the vulnerability of communications to possible leaks - any flexible connection is still less reliable than a stationary high-quality pipe. So, it is necessary to bring water to the machine.

Laying an additional section of the water supply to the installation site of the device is usually not difficult, and it will require little money. Another thing is how convenient it will be, and beautiful. If the pipe is completely hidden behind pieces of kitchen furniture, there are no questions.


But it is best, of course, to think through all the issues of the future installation in advance, that is, when installing home plumbing and sewerage, immediately provide for connection points for household appliances. The ideal option is a hidden pipe laying with the installation of water outlets on the walls in the right places.


Connecting the dishwasher to the sewer

You can find a lot of articles stating that connecting a dishwasher to a sewer is generally the simplest operation that does not require any rules to be followed. Like, the drainage hose of the device is installed through a sealing rubber sleeve into a 50 mm sewer pipe socket specially prepared for it - and this issue has been resolved. Alas, not everything is so simple, and the followers of this technique may well encounter very unpleasant moments.

First of all, a water seal must become a prerequisite, otherwise unpleasant odors from the sewer will penetrate through the hose into the dishwasher.

Secondly, care must be taken to prevent water from flowing back from the sewer into the machine. To do this, the upper loop of the drainage hose must be located at least 400÷500 mm from the floor level. Where did these values ​​come from? Apparently, the level of the filled bathroom is taken into account - with a sharp release of water and some temporary problems with the patency of the sewer pipe, the water in it, according to the physical law of communicating vessels, will tend to rise to the general current level. Loop-shaped bend at the right height will not allow it to penetrate the dishwasher.

Thirdly, the direct connection of the drain hose to the sewer pipe using a seal makes this connection practically airtight. Oddly enough, but in this case it is not at all a virtue. Ideally, the pressure in the sewer pipes should equalize with atmospheric pressure so that no vacuum is created. Otherwise, this may result in the so-called "siphon effect" - a massive discharge of water in one of the sections causes its spontaneous current to flow to others connected to it. This leads to the fact that the pipe itself begins to "suck" water out of the dishwasher. Such a phenomenon can cause unbalancing of automation, the appearance of software errors and even equipment failure. By the way, the opposite option is not completely excluded - throwing dirty drains into the car, the consequences of which you don’t even want to think about.

But on the other hand, a leaky connection between a hose and a pipe is a possibility of leakage and the spread of unpleasant odors. How to do the right thing.

There are several acceptable options:

  • One of the simplest, cheapest and most effective is the installation of a drain siphon on the kitchen sink with a special pipe for connecting the drainage hoses of household appliances.

As can be seen from the illustration, the siphon can also have two nozzles - if there is a need to connect both the washing and

The branch pipe usually ends with a conical fitting, the embossed, stepped surface of which ensures reliable fixation of the hose after tightening the clamp.

tap adapter


Such a connection of the drain hose, in principle, meets all the requirements listed above:

- The water seal from the spread of odors from the sewer side is provided by the very design of the kitchen siphon.

- The connection point is located at the top, the upper bend of the drainage channel is formed by itself.

- At the same time, the drain hose is not hermetically connected to the sewer pipe - it communicates with the atmosphere through the drain hole of the sink. That is, the siphon effect is completely eliminated.

  • The above method is very good, but, alas, not always possible. For example, the sink is located out of reach of the dishwasher's drain hose, and a section of the sewer pipe has to be pulled. Another example is the design of the sink itself and its “branded” drain do not require any changes, and such a connection becomes impossible.

There is nothing to do, you have to connect to the sewer pipe. If its output is already occupied by a corrugated pipe from the sink - it's okay, you can put an "oblique" tee, reconnect the siphon, and use the second output for the dishwasher. And the connection here, whatever one may say, will still have to be made airtight, using a sealing rubber sleeve, otherwise an unpleasant odor cannot be avoided.

But what about the rest of the connection requirements?

The easiest way to solve the problem is to provide a water seal and ensure the required height of the loop. You can purchase a special polymer insert (they are often even included in the equipment supply), fix it in the intended place on the wall, fix the hose in it at the desired height. In this case, it is necessary to achieve such a position of the hose that a lower bend (like the letter S) is necessarily created - it will serve as a water seal.


But what about the potential threat of the "siphon effect"? There are also ready-made solutions for this.

- Installation of a simple "anti-siphon" valve on the hose.


This product is inexpensive and very easy to install. The hose is cut, and then connected by means of this valve, with tight fitting clamps. The disadvantage of the simplest device is a short service life, usually not exceeding six months. After that, you will have to purchase a new valve, since it is practically impossible to maintain.

- A more reasonable option is to purchase an anti-siphon valve made in the form of a loop. Not only does this immediately solve all the problems of proper placement of the hose - such devices are quite subject to regular cleaning, that is, they will last much longer.


A little more expensive and complicated in execution, but extremely convenient to use and meeting absolutely all requirements, the solution is to install a special wall-mounted siphon for a dishwasher (washing) machine. They are wall-mounted or hidden, of varying degrees of decorativeness, but they are united by the presence of all the necessary valve devices that ensure the comprehensive safety of connecting the device to the sewer.


The rear wide outlet is hermetically sealed to a vertically positioned 50mm sewer outlet, and the dishwasher drain hose is connected to the front outlet. In fact, it turns out a kind of analogue of a water outlet, only for the exact opposite purpose. They are usually replaced side by side, creating a special switching zone of the device.


Moreover, if you want to give such a connection node also an external “impressiveness”, then you can purchase a whole console structure, which includes a drain siphon with all valves, a water outlet with a tap, and even a power outlet. Such devices are usually supplied with decorative facade plates - both beautifully and everything you need to connect is at a glance.


And, finally, we can mention another very interesting technological solution. Some manufacturers complete their models with a special valve that provides the necessary air gap to eliminate the negative impact from the sewer. The constructive approach itself is interesting - the valve cuts into the surface of the countertop or the rear horizontal panel of the kitchen sink.


Such a valve is placed in a place where it will not interfere, covered with a decorative cap from above. From time to time, it will require maintenance, but removing the cap and cleaning it will not be difficult.

So, various options for connecting the dishwasher to the water supply and sewerage were considered. Some of them are quite simple, others will require certain knowledge and skills. However, none of them can be said to be completely inaccessible for independent performance.

In conclusion - a short video in which the master shares his experience of connecting a dishwasher. After receiving the information presented in the article, it will probably be interesting for the reader to look at and analyze some of the mistakes made by the installer. Blindly copying this is not necessary.

Video: dishwasher connection example

A dishwasher makes household chores much easier, as you do not have to spend time washing dishes. In addition, modern dishwashers save water, especially if many people live in an apartment or house.

You can connect the dishwasher yourself, almost without resorting to the help of professionals, for this you first need to choose a place for it. In modern furniture, there are niches for a dishwasher, if a cabinet was purchased first, and then equipment, then you will either have to redo the design or select a dishwasher of the right size.

You should install a grounded euro socket in the kitchen, it is best to bring a separate feed-through cable to it, which is connected to the drive shield. If a person is not particularly versed in electrics, then it is best to hire a specialist to lay the cable and connect it.

The dishwasher is connected to the water through a special outlet pipe, for this:

  • A filter is first installed on the pipe, which traps rust;
  • After it, a shut-off valve is installed;
  • And after that, the hose is connected.

For greater sealing of joints, it is necessary to use FUM tape. There is a connection for draining water through a siphon, which is equipped with an additional outlet, and the drain hose is fixed on the furniture or on the wall, at a height of about 50 cm, after which it descends to the water distributor.

This arrangement is necessary so that dirty water from the sink or siphon does not enter the drain hose.

Naturally, all work must be carried out in compliance with safety regulations, when laying the cable and connecting it, the apartment or house must be de-energized. Also, when connecting to the water supply, taps must be closed.

Do-it-yourself dishwasher connection technology

For many people, a dishwasher is no longer a luxury, but a necessity, especially if the family is large and you need to wash a large amount of dishes after eating. In order for this household appliance to serve for a sufficiently long time, it must be connected correctly, and almost all installation work can be done by hand.

It is enough to connect a euro outlet to a regular one with a cable through a machine, but this is only possible if both of them are grounded in the house, if not, then you still have to lay an additional line.

For a cold water pipe:

  1. A tee or even a quadruple is installed (naturally, the water must be shut off) with a tap, one branch will just feed the dishwasher.
  2. If a quadruple is installed, then you can also power the washing machine at the same time.
  3. Before the faucet, a filter designed for coarse cleaning should be installed.

The waste hose is connected directly to the sewer pipe using a tee, provided that the pipes are plastic, as this facilitates installation, or is connected to a special siphon with an additional outlet.

When all the connections are made, you should check the operation, for this the water opens, the dishwasher turns on, and the test mode starts. If this is not the case, then simply the shortest dishwashing mode. You should make sure that there are no leaks anywhere, and the machine works as it should.

Instructions: how to connect a Bosch dishwasher

To connect a Bosch dishwasher, it is not necessary to call a specialist, you can do all the installation work yourself, since now almost all household appliances are quite simple and do not require any special skills and abilities. To properly connect the Bosch dishwasher, you must follow certain steps.

It is forbidden to use extension cords powered from ordinary household sockets to connect the dishwasher.

Determination of the most optimal place for it, it should be convenient for controlling the dishwasher, as well as such an arrangement that it is close to the water supply and drain pipe or siphon (distance no more than 3 m). An electrical connection should also be provided, since the cord for many dishwashers is small, it should be provided for the installation of a separate and always grounded outlet.

Instruction:

  1. A branch is made from the main water pipe using a tee made of high-quality material.
  2. If the pipes are plastic, then the branches are also made from plastic pipes, which are soldered together.
  3. It is better to use a special manifold instead of a tee.
  4. The drain hose to the sewer must be connected in such a way that there is no backflow of water into the machine, and also that a water seal remains in it, which will prevent unpleasant odors.
  5. It is better and safer to connect the drain to a special siphon that has the necessary branch for this.

The Bosch built-in dishwasher is connected quite simply, with the exception of one moment. It is necessary to put the gasket in the hose that is connected to the water supply exactly according to the instructions, otherwise leaks in the connection cannot be avoided.

How to properly connect a built-in dishwasher

The built-in dishwasher is connected in almost the same way as other models. The advantage of this model is that this type of machine is built into kitchen furniture, taking up a minimum of space in the kitchen. Hence its name came from the word built-in. Some models are fully built into the kitchen furniture and closed with decorative doors, while others may partially protrude outside. When installing such a dishwasher model, you should follow the advice.

It is necessary, together with the purchase of a dishwasher, to choose furniture for it, this will be the best option. If furniture is purchased first, and then it is planned to purchase a dishwasher, then when choosing, provide a place for attaching the latter.

All connections, both to power supply, as well as to water supply and sewerage, should be made following the instructions. If you connect it, neglecting the rules, then leaks may subsequently begin, and even this may sooner or later lead to the failure of the dishwasher. The connection to the mains power supply must be carried out only through a special socket with grounding, this will prevent electric shock. Equally important is the connection to the drain, the hose must be connected to the sewer so that its height is not less than 50 cm. Otherwise, sewage may be thrown into the dishwasher. The dishwasher itself must be firmly fixed and leveled, this will also ensure the normal operation of the machine.

How to connect a dishwasher with your own hands (video)

Each person can connect any dishwasher to all communications independently. Moreover, you can connect a desktop and compact dishwasher without the involvement of a specialist.