Underfloor heating from hot water in a city apartment - a contour of a warm floor in a bathroom. Heated floor from a heated towel rail Why you can not connect underfloor heating to hot water

Water heated floor from hot water

Consider how this is done in a bathroom apartment.

As you know, the apartment has common water supply risers. And in apartments, you can usually install a warm water floor from a hot riser. See diagram:

This connection is not prohibited by law and any rules! Feel free to do it!

Disadvantages:

Conditions and required parameters:

1. Use oversized pipe. For example, metal-plastic 20mm. It is better not to use a 16mm pipe, as a situation may turn out when there will be little pressure in the hot water tap, and the water will run slowly.

2. The length of the pipe should be as short as possible. Do not exceed 20 meters. I recommend 150mm spacing.

3. It is desirable to make a concrete screed more economical in order to improve the speed of heating the floor. No more than 5 cm. Lay down thick thermal insulation. Preferably a polystyrene foam plate with a thickness of at least 15mm. With a density of 35 kg/m3.

The diagram shows ball valves: K1, K2, K3.

K2 and K3 - They are repair taps, in cases where smudges have formed in the floor, they can be turned off. Or completely turn off the underfloor heating so that it does not warm.

K1 - Can be used for coarse adjustment of the floor temperature. If this tap is slightly opened, then the flow in the warm field will be slightly less and the floor temperature will decrease. If it is closed, then the efficiency of the floor will be maximum.

It is better to put a balancing valve in place of K2, but they can be 10 times more expensive. Therefore, it is better to adjust the valve K1 a little bit and you can achieve the desired setting.

That's all, if it's not clear, write questions, I will definitely answer!

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Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - Autonomous house

Do you want to install underfloor heating from central heating? This is real! Let's take a look at all the points regarding the installation of such floors in apartments with central heating. In principle, it is allowed to use water floor heating where the heating circuit is implemented by a special wiring. Where in the whole apartment there is one main coolant distributed throughout all rooms and a large return main pipeline. Accordingly, if you have heat meters installed, then you can safely count on the installation of warm water floors in your apartment.

Scheme of a warm water floor

The only thing to remember is that a sufficient amount of heat is allocated completely to the entire apartment. Otherwise, a situation may arise when the energy consumption is more than expected, which can significantly upset the balance of heat energy exchange between neighboring apartments. But such a destabilization of the balance can be eliminated by regulators, which, in turn, causes the underfloor heating system from the central heating to consume a dosed amount of water volume.

When is it forbidden to install underfloor heating in an apartment?

It is forbidden to install underfloor heating from heating, if you thereby destabilize the warm and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments along the joint heating riser. In other words, this is when each room has a separate heating riser.

If so, it is strictly forbidden to install warm water floors, as this can lead to the fact that your water heated floor connected to this riser is able to take away the temperature so much that it will significantly reduce the heat that passes to other apartments using this riser. But, practically and theoretically, water heated floors can be installed anywhere and anywhere, the main thing is that the balance of the water flow is not disturbed, and the conditions for dosing heat consumption are observed.

Underfloor heating installation schemes where its use is prohibited

Let's take a look at those schemes, thanks to which they install underfloor heating directly in the apartment.

Cheap and cheerful

Here we will consider the option of installing underfloor heating, where it is forbidden to install water heated floors. To use this scheme, it is necessary to use a very weak pump (Flow rate - 5-10 l / min, pipeline - 16mm, pipeline length - no more than 70 meters). This scheme has one drawback - such floors are practically not regulated. Also, if there are small heat losses of the floor, then as a result, you can get very cold radiators.

Scheme with balancing adjustment

The installation diagram of a warm water floor shows a balancing valve, due to which the flow rate in the water heated floor is reduced, which means that the temperature of these floors can be reduced. In order to lower the temperature of the water heated floor, you need to open the balancing valve to the appropriate pass.

Reducing the impact of heat consumption

"K2" - a three-way valve with a temperature-sensitive mechanism. It gives a constantly unchanging temperature at point "3". In other words, if your underfloor heating is using a lot of energy, then it is more likely to cause almost cold water to enter the riser. Which, in turn, can cool the radiators down the riser in neighboring apartments.

Scheme of a warm water floor with a three-way valve

Such a three-way valve can be purchased at specialized plumbing equipment stores. It is called: "Mechanical three-way mixing valve for water supply with thermostat". That is, the presented valve is necessary for us in automatic mode, in order to regulate the temperature regime of the hot water flow in the warm water floor circuit of the apartment.

Three-way valve

In the presented scheme, you need to adjust the tap so that at point "3" there is a warm, very high temperature. But if the warm floor from the central heating will heat very little, you can lower the temperature of the valve, thereby increasing heat loss in the warm field. Here, to adjust the floor temperature, you can use the balancing valves "K1" and "K2". If it suddenly happens that the radiator starts to cool below the set temperature, then the temperature will not pass into your warm floor. The circulation in the warm floor will simply stop.

Scheme for discerning consumers

K1 "- bypass balancing valve. "K2" and "K3" - differently connected three-way valves. The KZ damper is used to stabilize the temperature of the warm floor from the central heating by the method of return temperature from the circuit. It is this scheme that allows you to make the so-called "climate control". If it gets hot in your room, it will reduce the flow of hot water in the underfloor heating circuit, thus reducing the release of heat energy into the room. The warmer the room, the faster the hot water passes through the circuit and cools less and reaches the temperature-sensitive element of the three-way valve, which, in turn, does not allow the liquid to flow at a very significant rate.

The structure of the bypass balancing unit

The "K1" valve is necessary for working in a closed circuit of the warm water floor of your apartment. Such a valve can reduce or completely shut off the flow of the circuit so that it can cause very favorable operation for the pump in use. Therefore, this valve is necessary in order to balance the flow for the pump. It is worth remembering that the pump is operated on a closed circuit, which can cause it to overheat, and therefore increase power consumption, and the “K1” valve is essentially a regulator of the hot water pressure of the circuit. The higher the pressure of hot water, the faster it will go along the entire contour of the warm floors.

Underfloor heating installation schemes where its use is allowed

Now consider the option that must be used in apartments where it is allowed to use such heating, the water-heated floor of which will become the main source of heat.

A balancing valve or flow regulator must be installed at the inlet of the mixing unit. Of course, the second option is better. Such a valve will regulate the required energy consumption, and consequently the temperature in the room. It is also possible to supply an autovalve to stabilize the differential operating pressure, which is also capable of stabilizing the flow. Such heating with a water-heated floor can provide heat to the entire apartment, provided it is properly installed and subsequently operated.

The consumption of hot water for water heating, the underfloor heating of which is the main source of energy, should be so minimal as not to increase the normalized consumption of water that was used before the installation of the underfloor heating system.

If you increase this expense, then the relevant services will immediately know about it. It is worth using the special schemes described above and not increasing the flow rate of the coolant, as this can ruin the normalized flow of hot water in the radiators of your neighbors.

Underfloor heating from central heating, water heating at home Underfloor heating from central heating. Various schemes for connecting a warm floor to a central heating system. Description of the main nodes.

Source: centro-pol.ru

For a bathroom, liquid floor heating is the best option. There are several ways to carry out a warm floor from hot water supply in the bathroom: connect to a heating riser or to a heated towel rail if, of course, it functions from a heating system. The same principle is relevant for other types of premises.

Water floor: pros and cons

The most basic drawback that encourages abandoning liquid heating is that a permit is required for a water-heated floor in an apartment, and it is also a laborious process that requires duplication and high material consumption (but then these costs justify themselves). However, if a team of experienced craftsmen is involved in the work, then they solve all these issues on their own, including obtaining permission. And entrusting communications to private dubious persons is dangerous in every sense.

The negative side should also be attributed to the fact that there is a high probability of pipe leakage. The Colmart online store offers only high-quality goods made in Italy, Austria, Germany, which exclude such problems. All products come with a manufacturer's warranty.

Benefits of underfloor heating

As for the advantages, they significantly exceed their disadvantages. The liquid principle of heating is the most beneficial in comparison with other types, even if a warm floor is installed in an apartment with individual heating.

Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings Underfloor heating from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings. Buy accessories for underfloor heating in the online store Ukraine, Kyiv, Kharkov - colmart.com.ua

Source: colmart.com.ua

Underfloor heating is ideal for space heating, as it evenly distributes heat throughout the room. They can be used as the main source of heat in the house, and as an additional one.

There are two types of underfloor heating: water and electric. The former are heated by the circulation of hot water, the latter work as heating appliances. In this article we will look at how to make a water heated floor.

In what rooms can it be installed?

Water heated floor

Installation of a warm floor can be done in any room, but it must be taken into account that any system of warm floors dries the air, so residents will not feel comfortable in rooms with poor ventilation.

This problem is easily solved with the help of a humidifier, but it is still not recommended to install them in bedrooms, because fresh and cool air is needed for normal sleep. Underfloor heating is great for bathrooms and kitchens, as there is enough ventilation and humidity.

Room preparation

In the room where the installation is planned, the old floor covering is removed.

It should be remembered that when all the work is completed, the floor level will rise by 5-7 centimeters, so the door frames will also need to be raised. In the bathroom, an old screed is being disassembled, under which, most likely, there will be a filler (expanded clay, for example).

When making a new fill, experts advise making it a couple of centimeters lower than the general floor level. To do this, you can make a smooth transition or step.

This is done with the aim that in case of flooding of the bath, water will not enter other rooms in the apartment. If the bathroom has waterproofing, then it can not be removed, but it is better to put it in bags for the time of work.

Preparation of risers for floor installation

If you plan to connect a warm floor to central heating, then it is not necessary to change the entire riser at all, since they rarely break. However, it is better to replace the hot water riser with polypropylene pipes, because they are not subject to corrosion.

You need to find out from the plumbers who are servicing your home what kind of riser spill. If the spill is upper, then tap 2 will be the inlet of warm water, and tap 3 will be the outlet. With the bottom spill, the placement is done the other way around.

Laying waterproofing

Water flows through the pipes in an underfloor heating system, so, in theory, a leak can occur. Naturally, all manufacturers claim that their products are of high quality and durable, but no one is immune from possible factory defects.

In this regard, waterproofing is done.

There are various types of waterproofing on the market, but it is best to use linocorm or similar insulation for simplicity.

Connecting a warm floor

The insulation is overlapped by 10 centimeters, and the seams are soldered with a blowtorch or a building dryer. On the walls, it should go above the level of the warm floor. It is recommended to prime the bottom of the wall in order to better solder.

Pouring a rough screed

If the flooring in the apartment lies directly on the floor slabs, or the future floor will be no higher than 10 centimeters above the level of the slabs, then you will need to make a rough screed.

With the help of a level around the perimeter of the room, markings are made. After that, the highest point of the plates is determined and the level of the rough screed is marked from it.

The level should be 7 centimeters lower than the finished floor. This level depends on the diameter of the pipes. So, if the diameter is 16 millimeters, then the screed is made by 5 centimeters, the diameter is 25 millimeters - the screed is at least 7 centimeters.

Basically, a rough screed is made from a mixture of expanded clay and cement-based mortar. If the size of the room is not large, then it is not necessary to install beacons, and they are guided by the marks on the walls. The mixture is leveled by a long rule. With large areas of the premises, beacons will still have to be installed.

Note! To level the mixture, you can use any object of sufficient length.

As experience shows, it is quite difficult to mix the mortar and expanded clay. Expanded clay dust, mixing with the solution, makes it less durable, and for a normal screed, you will need a large amount of such a solution.

In this regard, it is better to do a rough screed in a different way.

Heaps of mortar are poured and paint beacons are placed on them. If the distance from the base plates to the floor is large, then heaps can be poured onto previously laid bricks. Further, below the level of the lighthouses, expanded clay is poured and leveled. After that, a welded mesh is laid down and a screed is poured.

Pipe laying

Filling contours with concrete

Before laying the pipes, a flooring is made of foil insulation, which acts as a heat shield. The joints of the sheets are glued with aluminum tape. The edges of the insulation should go 4 centimeters on the walls.

Bending of pipes is carried out by a spring into which pipes are inserted. However, this should be done carefully, since it is strictly forbidden to bend the pipes. Pipes are attached to the screed using special plastic fasteners.

Fittings are put on the pipe outlets, and the connection is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees Celsius. Further, the fittings are attached to the risers with special collapsible connections. All threaded connections are assembled on flax, as this is the most durable material.

Trial run of the system

After the sealant dries, test run the underfloor heating. To remove air from the system, use the Mayevsky crane. If the system is powered by a riser, then use a hot water tap.

This is done in the following sequence: taps 1 and 2 are opened, and tap 3 is closed. Next, the hot water tap is turned off and time is given for it to glass. After that, the first valve is closed, and the third one is opened.

Thus, the system is under pressure for several days to check the strength of all connections and that there are no leaks anywhere. After the test run, the entire system is turned off, the taps are turned off in reverse order, and time is given for it to cool down.

Finishing screed pouring

The finishing screed is poured in the same way as the rough screed: a masonry mesh is laid down, beacons are placed, and pouring is carried out. If a worm screed was made, then it is not necessary to lay the masonry mesh. When preparing the screed, make sure that its surface is even.

After the screed has dried, use a construction float to eliminate all irregularities on the surface. Next, let the screed dry completely.

Note! A well-dried screed acquires a light gray color.

Conclusion

In order not to depend on utilities, connect the system to a hot water supply riser. The ball valve is used to prevent mixing of technical and drinking water.

How to make a water-heated floor: connection diagram How to make a water-heated floor yourself? What you should pay attention to? Tips, tricks, technology

Source: polexpert.ru

What do you need to know?

First of all, decide on the type of underfloor heating. They can be of two types:

• electrical

Where to use which and why?

Warm floors as the main and additional type of heating are most often used:

• in a country cottage or cottage

• in an apartment building

In a private house, you are your own boss and are free to choose any type, option and any heating scheme. There are no restrictions here. But in the apartment there are already nuances and restrictions.

In the apartment it can be taken from two sources:

The radiator heating system is inconvenient for two factors:

Accordingly, your heated floors will be idle for most of the year.

First, it's not cheap. And secondly, it takes up significant space in the room.

Theoretically, you can connect, but you need to provide a sufficiently low temperature for underfloor heating. A direct connection will be accompanied by a temperature of 70 degrees and above, and this will simply overheat the flooring.

You will not be able to legally formalize your connection in any instances. And if such a fact is revealed during the check, you can easily run into a fine. Plus, they will force you to dismantle everything at your own expense.

Therefore, most competent specialists do not recommend installing water-heated floors in an apartment building:

• from heating systems inconvenient

Of course, you can also come up with an autonomous container with water, but do not forget that the rules prohibit placing “wet zones” above the living quarters of neighbors. And a water-heated floor will just be considered such a zone. Unless you live on the first floor.

The only option left is electric underfloor heating.

But if you have a private house, then there is already a richer choice. It is possible to stop both on electric heating, and on water. But what is the best choice?

Many still in such a situation make their choice in favor of water heated floors. This is explained by the fact that people are afraid of the influence of electromagnetic radiation on the body, which supposedly have electric heated floors.

Meanwhile, all manufacturers have long been required to have certificates and papers confirming the safety of their products. All heating cables are shielded.

If we take into account how many WiFi, GSM and other networks are around us, then electric floors are not the biggest evil. However, most of this does not convince them that they are right.

In their opinion, for the bathroom it might also work, but if this is the main heating in all rooms, then any headaches or illnesses will automatically be recorded about electric underfloor heating.

Well, the second important point is the absolute maintainability of water floors anywhere. Moreover, you can make such repairs yourself, at home.

In case of damage to the heating cable of the electric mat, you will either have to rip off the entire tile and change it entirely, or call specialists with equipment for burning, and searching for a short circuit location with a thermal imager, followed by installation of couplings.

Moreover, the search for some accidents, even for them, can cause certain insoluble difficulties.

Therefore, safety and maintainability are the two factors that incline for many the choice in favor of water-heated floors as the main source of heating. The electric option, however, remains only as an additional source of heat.

But the factors that can scare away from water heated floors:

You need a boiler, a mixing unit, a collector and much more, without which electric heating can easily be dispensed with.

• constant revision work

Water replacement, scale on heating elements, pump breakdowns, leaks from low-quality pipes. In short, many water floor installers earn many times more, and not only with their laying, but also with further maintenance.

Naturally, it is beneficial for them to convince their customers about the dangers of electricity and warm floors based on them.

Personally, your choice should depend on two variables:

• budget for installation and necessary aftercare

If there are no problems with this, then go ahead to the store for water floors.

• lack of prejudice and faith in modern technology

If this is about you, then an electric underfloor heating is exactly what you need.

The two most popular varieties are:

Infrared film

What should I pay attention to when choosing an infrared film?

It is a sheet with soldered copper conductors. Between them with a very small gap, current coal paths are laid, which are the heating element.

First of all, look at the contacts. They must be soldered.

If they are made with pistons, such a connection is extremely unreliable. Excessive heating will occur here, creating a potential fire site.

The film acts as a separator between the underfloor heating base and the decorative coating. Therefore, it cannot be laid where the screed will be poured.

It won't fit under tiles. But it's perfect for:

If a heating cable is laid under the same materials, then due to the distance between the turns (laying pitch), you will clearly feel the boundary between heat and cold - a thermal zebra.

The film heats the entire surface evenly. True, some are afraid that with such heating of the laminate, harmful substances will be released from it. And so you need to buy a special product labeled "for a warm floor."

This is not true. The sun heats up the laminate much more when it shines directly through the window. And nothing harmful comes out of it.

There are also concerns about the dryness of the air and the dust that warm floors inevitably raise up. Here everything depends not on the heating mode, the presence or absence of radiators in the rooms, but on ventilation.

Provide a regular supply of fresh air and there will be no problems. And if you clog all the windows, then you will suffocate even with central heating batteries.

Approximate calculation of electricity consumption when heating a house with underfloor heating film:

Where is the best place to use heating cable? Where you will have a minimum screed, or tiles with glue - i.e. kitchen and bathroom.

As a rule, after the builders complete the work, there can no longer be any full-fledged screed. The maximum you have is 5-6cm.

If even less, then the choice is unequivocal - only a heating mat. It can be laid directly into the tile adhesive layer.

The disadvantage of an electric underfloor heating is that in addition to your room, you will also warm up the ceiling from below. At your own expense, you will also heat your neighbors.

You have a warm floor, they have a warm ceiling.

Table comparing the efficiency of heating cable and film infrared floors:

Compare current day prices of underfloor heating with heating cable or mats and infrared film.

A cake with water floors should ideally look like this:

• pipes with heat carrier are mounted on this surface

• then in the cake there is an adhesive layer and a tile or other coating

The approximate thickness of the entire plate is 130-140mm. Under this condition, all the heat will be spent on your room, and not go down.

Don't waste your money. In addition, without reinforcement of a thin screed, as a result of the destruction of the foil insulation, subsidence and cracking of the floor covering may occur.

The best solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg / m3 or multifoil as insulation.

The basis of the multifoil is air pockets in the form of tablets or pimples. They are very strong and you won't be able to crush them just like that.

You can easily walk on them for as long as you like. Moreover, the aluminum coating is applied on the reverse side, i. it is not possible to damage and corrode it with a screed.

2 Be sure to use edge insulation.

This is a kind of damper, which is laid along the perimeter of the slab with a warm floor. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which inevitably occurs when it is heated.

If this is not done, the concrete screed will rest against the walls and it will have two options, either to break these walls themselves, or to break itself. When pouring, the edge of the damper film should be above the screed, then the excess is cut off.

3 If you have a large pouring area (more than 20m2), it must be separated with a compensation tape.

Since all expansions during heating of such a concrete layer, only flanging cannot compensate.

4 The coil of a warm water floor must be from a single piece of pipe, without joints.

5 Never use compression fittings, i.e. those connections where there are nuts and threads.

None of this should get into your screed.

6 If the customer and the performer are poorly versed in the preparation of solutions, then the recommended height of a full-fledged screed should be 85mm or 7cm from the top wall of the heating element.

This thickness of concrete will help save you from cracking, even with not very high-quality cement.

In addition, 85mm helps with striping (thermal zebra). And finally, this is the inertia of such a screed.

If you have electricity as an energy source, at night at a cheaper rate you can “disperse” the warm floor and not turn on the boiler all day. The stored heat should be enough until the evening.

This mode of heating is approximately 3 times cheaper than usual.

7 Do not save and add a special plasticizer for underfloor heating to the screed.

Ultimately, you need to get concrete that will easily withstand temperature deformation.

8 Reinforcement is done as a last resort.

First of all, when you are forced to pour only 50-60mm of screed instead of 85mm. But if possible this should be avoided.

9 It is not necessary to cut any holes in the substrate to the concrete base, ostensibly for a quality hitch.

Even if this coupling occurs, everything will come off when the plate is first heated. The underfloor heating slab, figuratively speaking, should "float" without connection with the base and with the walls.

10 Do not pour mortar with empty floor pipes.

The system must be filled and the pressure must be 3 bar. This is primarily due to the need to preserve the geometry and shape of the pipe. Without pressure inside, it is easy to crush.

Water or electric underfloor heating - 10 mistakes and installation rules Installation rules for water and electric underfloor heating. Heating cable and film - efficiency comparison. Is el.magnetic radiation safe from underfloor heating? The thickness of the screed is 85mm, why?

Source: domikelectrica.ru

The popularity of heating systems, organized on the modern principle of floor heating, is constantly growing. In many countries, this technology has already become prevalent, and "heat-insulated floors", having displaced the usual radiator schemes, are included in the projects of multi-storey buildings and are installed immediately, as the building is erected. This is due to the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for people to live or work - there is uniform heating from the bottom up with an optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.

Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in the apartment

Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth switching to it? When considering possible options, very often electric floor heating is treated with a certain prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and the water "warm floor" will clearly win in terms of operating efficiency. This is complemented by the fact that water heating pipes have already been laid in the apartment, and the temptation is very great to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. This probably explains the fact that in the top of search queries on the network on heating topics there is always one such as “warm floors, water wiring diagrams in an apartment”.

However, you must immediately warn the owner of the apartment who wants to switch to water floor heating - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the conditions of high-rise buildings, the number of obstacles to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. Moreover, these problems are very versatile - both technological and administrative in nature.

However, subject to certain conditions, such a possibility exists. But first, perhaps, we should get acquainted with the difficulties that will inevitably have to be overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessed the scale of the activities that will need to be done, some apartment owners will still decide to stop at an easier-to-install and safer operation of the electric “warm floor” system.

Do I need to coordinate the project with utilities?

In the event that the owner of the apartment intends to connect his water "warm floor" system to the existing central heating system, he will almost certainly face a number of administrative problems.

Heating of a multi-storey building is a complex branched system, which was calculated in advance by specialists, and its possibilities are not unlimited. When designing it, the power of the boiler house or local heat point, the diameters and lengths of pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the layout of apartment wiring and radiator connections, and many other criteria were taken into account. Independent introduction of any changes in the operation of this system can lead to an imbalance, a decrease in overall efficiency.

It is clear that the design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, is unlikely to be noticeable on a system scale. But, firstly, there are most likely a lot of people who are sorry to embed this type of heating. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. Connecting additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can be affected by a drop in the temperature of the coolant in the neighbors' radiators. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those who are looking for a reason will definitely find it, and unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.

There is only one way out - to go through the procedure of coordination with the management company or with the suppliers of thermal energy. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.

In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a lower supply, this will become the upper floor, and if the coolant is supplied from above in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of the apartments on the first floor will be more likely to enlist permission. The selection of thermal energy for floor heating will not affect the radiators of the neighbors in the riser.

But this, again, does not mean at all that other technical conditions will not be put forward by public utilities. So, almost certainly they will demand the obligatory installation of an individual heat consumption meter.

When agreeing on the connection, you will need to install an individual metering device for consumed heat energy

You may receive a proposal from public utilities to organize your heating system according to a semi-autonomous principle. In this option, the coolant from the central system will not be used for circulation through the "warm floor" pipes - the circuit is completely closed. And the transfer of thermal energy received from the boiler. Occurs through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.

Heat extraction can also take place through a heat exchanger

Of course, in this case, it will be necessary to install additional equipment to organize the circulation of the coolant and prevent emergency situations. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve the owners of the need to purchase and install a meter for consumed heat energy.

Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely transfer your apartment to autonomous heating. A similar trend is gaining popularity - the owners refuse heating and hot water services and install their own electric or gas boiler.

More and more owners of city apartments are trying to switch to full autonomy in matters of heating and hot water supply

Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is already of a slightly different kind. But on the other hand, the owner of an autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, “warm floor” circuits, convectors, etc. Heat metering devices in this option will not be required - only the costs of the energy carrier - gas or electricity - will be paid.

It cannot be said that the problems of apartment owners will end there - they will face many technological difficulties. But in this or that way they are nevertheless solved.

The key issue is the laying of "underfloor heating" pipes in a city apartment

If the administrative stage has been successfully passed, permission to connect has been received or complete autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system has been ensured, then it is time to move on to a phased solution to the problems of laying the "warm floor" contours. Here it is necessary to determine the possible height of the floor level, with the method of closing the contours, in such a way as not to exceed the permissible load on the interfloor ceilings. A very important point is the high-quality thermal insulation of the structure being created, the reliability and durability of pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage it is necessary to deal with the optimal laying scheme, the length of the contours, the step of their laying.

Possible obstacles - raising the floor level and weighting the structure

The first thing to do is to assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after the installation of a "warm floor", and whether this can be allowed under specific conditions. And the increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.

Approximate scheme of the water "warm floor" under the screed

• No one wants to pay money for anything, and therefore it will be necessary to provide a thermal insulation barrier (pos. 1), which will not allow heat to be spent almost in vain, for heating the reinforced concrete slabs of the interfloor floor.

If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then a thermal insulation layer of 25 ÷ 30 mm of expanded polystyrene is usually sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they are even limited to a rolled foil insulation (made of polyethylene foam) with a thickness of about 5 mm. But if a cold basement or an uninsulated basement is located below, then you will have to use a thermal insulation layer of 50 mm, or even more.

• The efficiency of the “warm floor” is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (pos. 2). The concrete layer not only closes the pipes of the circuits (pos. 3), but also becomes an element of the entire system that accumulates and evenly distributes heat.

But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The load on the floor slab increases significantly, and it is imperative to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.

• And, finally, the thickness of the floor finish itself (pos. 4) cannot be discounted. It, of course, is incomparable with the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if thick ceramic tiles are laid on a layer of glue.

Some problems can be avoided by applying the “warm floor” laying method without a concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for laying pipes are used.

Heat transfer plate with channel for pipe laying

Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or wood composite), in insulating mats of a special design, or you can make a wooden floor structure on logs, as shown in the figure:

Water "warm floor" on a wooden base without screed

Between the lags installed on the base floor base and aligned horizontally (pos. 1), thermal insulation material (pos. 2) is laid. Boards (pos. 3) are stuffed on top with a step that ensures the laying of heat-exchange metal plates (pos. 4). Pipes of the “warm floor” contour (pos. 5) are laid in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is covered from above with sheets of plywood, OSB, drywall, etc. (pos. 6) - this will become the basis for laying the finish coat.

This method of laying somewhat loses to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, this way you can win precious millimeters of height, and prevent excessive loads on the floor.

But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. So, you should evaluate possible solutions in advance and make the right choice.

Now let's go through the main components for laying the "warm floor" circuit - insulation mats and the pipes themselves.

Choice of insulation mats

• As already mentioned, in almost ideal conditions (the building itself and the ceilings in particular already have highly efficient insulation, and a well-heated room is located below), roll materials can be used, for example, "penofol".

A roll of foil insulation based on polyethylene foam

In this case, the laying of the contour can be carried out with tying the pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.

• If better insulation is required, then foam polystyrene mats are used (best of all - extrusion).

Folding polystyrene foam mat with marking lines

Such a heater can be in the form of separate plates, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like an "accordion" or "tractor caterpillar". Very often, a grid is applied on such products, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will reflect heat towards the room, increasing the overall effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Fixing the pipe on the mounting rail and with a plastic clamp

Fixing pipes to such mats can also be carried out to a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips are used, which securely hold the pipe in a given place.

• However, the best, albeit expensive, solution would be to purchase special profile foam polystyrene mats for a water “warm floor”. The protrusions placed on their surface - bosses allow you to quickly and reliably fix the contour loops without the use of any additional accessories.

Profile mat with bosses and polymer coating

The optimal choice is polymer-coated profile mats with locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laying, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes an excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, the creation of a waterproofing barrier and the simplification of the pipe laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.

Heat transfer plates fit well in the profile mat

By the way, such mats can also be used if it is decided to do without a screed. Heat exchange plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already pricked into them.

The choice of pipes for "warm floor"

There should be no simplifications in this matter - the contours are mounted for a long time, hidden by a screed and an external coating, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of pipes and their connections. Any, even a minor leak, can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with a mandatory opening of the floor.

What are the requirements for pipe contours:

• Pipes made using suture technology are not allowed.
• It is impossible to place pipe connections in the thickness of the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid bay. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
• Resistance to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical effects of the coolant, to the formation of scale or lime deposits on the inner walls. Ideally, pipes should also resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide for this function.
• Thermal and mechanical strength margin. The pipe material should not be afraid of elevated coolant temperatures and withstand a pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
• The pipes must have a smooth inner surface - to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and so that the coolant flow through them is not accompanied by noise.

Based on these criteria, VGP steel pipes are immediately excluded - they are seam, and they cannot be used without creating joints.

Surely, the temptation to use polypropylene pipes is great, as they are inexpensive and easy to install. However, in our case, they cannot be used. Firstly, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, the assembly of the circuit will require a very large number of welded joints. Although well-welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, narrowing of the conditional passage is possible in these places, accumulations of solid precipitation, and the numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in the contours of a warm floor.

So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:

Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“crosslinking”, which will give the material completely new qualities. Pipes made of such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by excellent flexibility and strength, easily withstand temperature changes, and are not afraid of freezing.

PE-Xa XLPE Pipe Coil

The best performance indicators are for the material marked PE-Xa - they have the highest degree of crosslinking, up to 90%. And if they are supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.

In addition, you can purchase pipes from the most innovative polymer - PE - RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal stability, are even more pronounced.

As if they were specially created for the "warm floor" - they are light, have good heat dissipation, allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to technology). However, one should be careful when choosing them - there are too many shoddy goods on the market that cannot withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.

In addition, the aluminum layer can be very unstable to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to delamination of the pipe and the loss of its qualities. Therefore, if metal-plastic pipes are chosen, then attention should be paid to the material of manufacture of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.

Always pay attention to the quality of the metal-plastic pipe

The best option is a pipe with PE-X-polyethylene outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum welded using a special technology.

In terms of the degree of heat transfer and the durability of operation, such pipes, probably, have no rivals.

Layed copper pipe

The plasticity of the metal allows you to perform contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its mass use is a very high price.

Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying the contour, and the resistance to corrosion, further enhanced by the internal polymer coating, guarantees a long service life.

Modern stainless steel corrugated pipes show themselves perfectly

In addition - this is the only exception to the rule that allows you to make butt joints under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of standard fittings. And, despite the fact that the maximum length in the bay is 50 m, they can be safely used for laying even longer contours.

The only drawback in using such material is the very high price.

We decide on the scheme of laying the contour

In order for the water "warm floor" in the apartment to be really effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.

• There are two main laying patterns - this is a "snake" or "snail". But they can be combined and combined in various variations. Basic schemes are shown in the figure:

Basic schemes for laying contours

a - "snail". It is considered the most appropriate in terms of uniform heat distribution. It has a more complex installation process.

b - "snake". It is easier to install, but it has a pronounced drawback - heat is distributed zonally.

c - a variation of the "snake" with a double entry. The distribution of heat over the area is more uniform, but there are pronounced bands.

• In order to prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
• One of the defining parameters of the contour is its laying step, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value lies in the range from 80 mm (it is impossible to do less, since the bending radius of the pipes will not allow) and up to 300 mm (they don’t do it anymore, because the “zebra effect” appears - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).

The laying step largely depends on how it is planned to use the "warm floor" - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should it work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for living rooms, a surface heating temperature of up to 29 ° C is required (if natural wood or parquet is used as a finish coat - up to 27 ° C), while in the bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, finished with ceramic tiles, in the hallway it is already 33 ° C.

• Heating radiators are not in vain installed near window openings - they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This should also be taken into account when drawing up a "warm floor" scheme - to provide for a denser laying in areas with maximum heat loss - near windows and along external walls. And here there can be a very large number of variations of the "drawings" of the contour.

The laying scheme is best depicted immediately on a scale in the drawing - diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.

The contour length can be calculated using the formula:

L - the length of the contour in a certain area.

k - coefficient taking into account pipeline bends.

Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, then the calculation is made at once for the entire contour. If there are selected sections with compacted laying, then calculate the length of the pipe for each, and then summarize.

To make things easier, you can use the calculator below:

Calculator for calculating the length of the pipes of the "warm floor" circuit

Direct supply and return sections, as well as the necessary "mounting ends" for connection to the manifold, must be added to the obtained value.

• It should be remembered that the contour cannot be unlimited. The hydraulic resistance may become higher than the pressure of the coolant, and the circuit will simply “close”. So, if a pipe is used Du16, then it should be limited to a length of 70 - 80 m (optimally - up to 60 m), with Du20 - no more than 100 m (80 m). If, as a result of the calculations, it turns out that a longer circuit is needed, it will have to be divided into two, with a separate connection of each to the collector. In this case, it is desirable to achieve an approximately equal length of both - a difference of no more than 20% is acceptable.

At the same time, if it is planned to fill the “warm floor” with a screed, a technological break in the coating is necessarily made between different circuits with the installation of a damper tape in it. The same tape, to compensate for thermal expansion, should be laid along the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

Equipment necessary for the functioning of the "warm floor" in the apartment

It is naive to believe that laying pipe contours already solves all problems - they say, it remains to connect them to the supply and return lines, and everything will work right away. Nothing of the kind - the performance of such a system will be a big question. In addition, it is necessary to solve a number of other technological problems:

• The liquid will always choose the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in order to make it circulate along a long pipe circuit, it will be necessary to install special equipment - a pumping unit.
• Devices are required to release accumulated air in order to avoid gas locks.
• The pressure created in the system must be equalized in order to ensure the circulation of the coolant with the most efficient heat transfer, without stagnation and with the elimination of the possibility of water hammer.
• The temperature level in heating radiators and in the "warm floor" circuits is completely different. If in the central system the heating can reach 80 degrees, then for floor heating this is completely unacceptable. Such temperatures will create an uncomfortable environment in the room, and will have a destructive effect on the state of the insulation screed, and will lead to deformation of the floor covering.

Typically, the temperature of the heat carrier in the “warm floor” circuits is maintained within the limits of 35 ÷ 40, maximum 50 ° C. Thus, it is required to install a special unit that will mix the heat carrier from the supply and return to achieve the required level of heating of the floor surface.

Scheme of mixing hot and cooled coolant flows in a simple three-way valve

• The coolant in the system must be clean, so the installation of appropriate filters will not interfere, especially if water from the central heating system is used.
• To visually monitor the parameters of the system - the pressure in the circuit and the temperature level, you will need the appropriate instruments, a pressure gauge and a thermometer.
• The system must be safe to operate - without this condition, permission to install it simply will not be obtained. In addition, if it is planned to connect to the central risers, then the “heat-insulated floors” created should in no way interfere with the regular operation of the heating system of the entire building.

By the way, with this approach, no one will be allowed to show excessive independence. Most likely, one of the typical schemes for connecting to the central system will be offered. For example, such as shown in the figure:

One of the typical schemes for connecting a "warm floor" to the wiring of the heating system

This is exactly the option that has already been mentioned - the apartment is located last in the heating supply riser in the entrance.

An inlet valve (pos. 1) is installed at the entrance to the dedicated system, it is not shown in the diagram, but it is recommended to place an “oblique” mud filter here in order to prevent impure coolant from entering the distribution equipment and the “warm floor” circuits themselves.

At the outlet of the system, a check valve (pos. 2) and a shut-off valve are installed.

The temperature of the heat carrier in the "warm floor" circuits in this case is set by a three-way valve (pos. 3). This can be a device with manual setting of the required mixing level, or a more modern one with a servo drive that receives a control signal from a temperature sensor at the inlet to the supply manifold (shown by a green dotted line).

Three-way valves - manually operated (left), and equipped with a servo

To ensure circulation, a pump (pos. 4) is installed, which, in terms of its performance and the generated pressure, must correspond to the total indicators of all circuits connected to the collector.

A bypass valve (pos. 5) is installed on the bypass between the collectors, which equalizes, if necessary, pressure drops to the required value.

The collectors themselves must have air vents (pos. 6) and drain cocks (pos. 7)

In the event that the underfloor heating system is connected directly to both pipes - both to the high-temperature supply and to the return (this mainly happens with a completely autonomous apartment heating system, or upon receipt of the appropriate permission for a tie-in to the central one), then other wiring diagrams:

The general adjustment is also made using the balancing valves on the bypass (pos. 3) and on the return (pos. 4). The bypass valve (pos. 5) provides the required pressure drop for normal circulation.

The scheme is far from perfect, quite difficult to accurately balance.

The scheme is simple and quite effective, but the mixing quality in it is “lame”.

Both the temperature of the coolant in the "warm floor" circuits and the pressure level can be finely adjusted.

Installed two-way valve and two control valves.

But there is one important difference from all the previously considered schemes - the mandatory presence of a separate expansion tank (pos. 13) and its own “safety group” (pos. 12) in which the safety valve plays the most important role.

Expansion tank and "safety group" are mandatory if the heat transfer is via a heat exchanger

If it is planned to connect several circuits of a warm floor, then it is necessary to provide for their mutual balancing. If this is not observed, then the coolant will find a path of least hydraulic resistance, and in other circuits the circulation will either be unacceptably small, or, in general, will be interrupted. Maintaining a perfectly equal length of the contours is almost impossible, which means that additional adjustment is required.

To do this, taps are installed at each of their outputs and inputs of the collector comb - with their help it will be possible to perform mutual balancing. In addition, these valves will allow you to locally turn off the circuit when it is no longer necessary to use them or for maintenance or repair work, without violating the operability of the rest of the system.

Distribution manifold with thermostats on each connected circuit

Even better, if each of the circuits connected to the collector has its own thermostat. So it will be easier to achieve accurate temperature settings for different rooms.

As an example, the figure shows a diagram of the operation of one of the varieties of collector-adjusting units.

Schematically - the work of the collector assembly

Is it worth it to assemble such a node yourself? In principle, it is quite possible to find all the components for it, and with proper experience in plumbing installation work and assembly does not seem to be an insurmountable obstacle. However, it is still better to purchase a ready-made collector cabinet - both each individual element and their correspondence to each other are important in its design.

In the cabin, you can pick up a ready-made collector assembly for any layout scheme of the "warm floor"

In the assortment of specialized stores, you can find the required model, designed both for a small heating area with two or three “warm floor” circuits, and capable of distributing and adjusting many circuits laid over vast areas of a large apartment or house.

The installation of a manifold cabinet designed for several circuits is usually planned so as to minimize long supply runs. That is, the center of the apartment will be most preferable.

So, in the publication, the main schemes for installing a warm floor in an apartment were considered. When choosing a specific type and calculating the parameters of the system, it is best to contact a qualified specialist - errors in this matter seriously affect the quality of heating and are very difficult to eliminate.

Underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in an apartment - how to choose the optimal one If underfloor heating water wiring diagrams in an apartment are used as heating, they differ in a number of features. Details are in the article.

Underfloor heating systems are used today both as the main and as an additional heating of housing. Recently, their popularity has increased significantly, as these devices can significantly reduce the cost of heating a room.

The traditional and most familiar to the consumer is a water heated floor. In the apartment it can be installed with the help of specialists or on your own. But about what difficulties may arise during its installation and how to properly perform such work, we will tell in this article.

Is it allowed to install water floor systems in the apartment

Before deciding on the arrangement of such heating, you should find out if a warm water floor is allowed in the apartment. Since the device is connected to the general heating system, such work must be authorized by the housing and communal company and the heating network, and, as practice shows, this is almost impossible to do.

Everything is explained by the fact that the water floor leads to a significant increase in energy costs and creates an additional load on the heating system, which was not taken into account during the design. To exclude such a phenomenon, it is necessary to install devices that provide forced circulation of water (a pump and a mixing unit), and this is very difficult to do on the basis of central heating.

The only exceptions are rooms in which there is autonomous heating. In this case, by installing a water heated floor in the apartment, the owners just need to register the changes made in the BTI.

What threatens homeowners for the illegal installation of a water circuit in the floors

Nevertheless, despite all the prohibitions, many owners decide to independently connect a warm floor from the central heating (in the apartment), after which they face various troubles and sanctions. Namely:

1. If there is a need to sell an apartment, it will be impossible to do it legally.

2. In the event that a circuit break occurs and the apartment is flooded from below, all the costs of its repair will be borne in full by the owner of the warm floors.

3. If the illegal redevelopment of the system is revealed by representatives of the heating network or the housing office, the owner of the apartment cannot avoid litigation, sanctions and fines.

That is why, having decided to connect a warm floor from central heating in an apartment, it is necessary to weigh the pros and cons well. To do this, consider what other advantages and disadvantages this heating system has.

Advantages of underfloor heating

Homeowners who have installed a water heater note the following positive aspects of such a redevelopment of heating:

The room becomes much more comfortable than when heated by stationary radiators;

All rooms in the apartment are heated evenly;

The level of humidity in the room practically does not change, the air does not dry;

Heating costs are reduced by up to 40%;

The system does not affect the appearance of the room (unlike bulky radiators and pipes).

If we compare the water circuit and film heating, then the first option has an undeniable advantage due to the absence of electromagnetic radiation. The cost of energy resources during the operation of water heating is also less than when using electrical analogues.

Negative sides of the system

If we talk about the shortcomings that a water heated floor (in an apartment) has, then the following facts can be attributed to them:

Due to a sufficiently large layer of screed (about 10 cm), the height of the room is noticeably reduced;

If low-quality materials were used during installation or mistakes were made, there is a high probability of a breakthrough, which entails a lot of problems;

Since a water-heated floor is laid in a screed, its installation can only be carried out at the stage of building construction or during a major overhaul;

The work on arranging the system is very time-consuming, so not all owners are able to independently install it.

Water floor device

As it has already become clear, a warm floor is mounted in a screed. The device is presented in the form of tubes, which are located under the floor covering and filled with cement mortar. The design is connected to a heating system, from which hot water or a special liquid enters the pipes.

Circulating through the pipes, the coolant heats the floor covering, due to which the room is heated.

If we consider the underfloor heating system in layers, we can see that the elements are arranged in the following order:

1. Concrete slab (floor base).

2. Waterproofing material.

3. Insulation.

4. Heat reflector (foil sheets).

5. Reinforcing mesh.

7. Screed.

8. Finishing material.

Laminate and linoleum are used as flooring in living rooms, as these materials are less susceptible to deformation and perfectly transmit heat. In the bathroom and kitchen, a warm floor is laid under the tiles (water). With your own hands, such a finish is quite simple to perform, in addition, ceramics have increased wear resistance and good heat dissipation.

What pipes and insulation can be used

We have already considered the advantages, disadvantages and elements with a liquid coolant, it remains to understand what materials are used in the process of its installation and how to independently perform the necessary work.

First of all, you need to choose high-quality pipes. Many prefer foam products, as they are the cheapest. This saving is not justified, since plastic pipes are characterized by lower heat transfer.

In the case of water floors, it is preferable to use metal-plastic options with a diameter of 20 and 25 mm. They have perfect value for money. If your budget allows, you can install more expensive options such as corrugated stainless steel and copper.

Next, you need to decide on the choice of insulation, on top of which an autonomous warm floor (water) will be mounted. In an apartment, polyethylene foam (with a reflective coating) and thin polystyrene foam are most often used. If the apartment is located above an unheated room, expanded clay can be used as thermal insulation.

Required Devices

The main components of the underfloor heating system are:

Boiler for liquid heating (in the case of autonomous heating);

A pump that provides pressure in the system;

Pipes for wiring installation;

Ball valves;

A pair of collectors with a control and adjustment system;

Fitting;

Water circuit (pipes).

Pipe laying methods

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the system, it is necessary to determine the method of laying pipes. the house can be presented in two versions. In the first, pipes are laid with a snake, and in the second - with a snail.

The “snake” laying method is considered the simplest, however, when using it, the surface temperature in different parts of the room may differ.

The volute arrangement eliminates the occurrence of overheating, however, the installation of pipes and the design of the system is much more complicated.

You can install the water circuit yourself, for this you just need to take into account a few recommendations and follow the instructions clearly.

1. First of all, it is necessary to remove the old finish (if any) and clean the floor to the concrete screed. The new coating will be 6-7 cm higher, which should be taken into account by the owners of rooms with low ceilings.

2. If you equip heating in the bathroom, then in order to lay a warm floor under the tile (water) with your own hands, you need to completely dismantle the screed.

3. If metal pipes are installed in the room, they must be replaced with plastic ones so that rust does not appear at the joints. If the circuit is mounted in a stationary system is not necessary.

4. To protect the floor from leakage, a reliable waterproofing should be placed on it. For these purposes, a special mastic is used, which, after hardening, does not allow moisture to seep to the neighbors.

5. Next, the insulation is mounted. The material is located with a reflective coating outward, and the seams between the sheets are glued with adhesive tape. An additional layer of waterproofing can be laid on top of the insulation. This will reduce the risk of water leakage.

6. Glue around the entire perimeter of the room (along the edges of the insulation material). After that, mats for installing underfloor heating are laid.

7. Pipes are mounted on top of the mats (in the chosen way). The distance between the turns of the pipe should be at least 30 cm. At the base, the pipe is fixed with special clamps or staples (made of strong wire) that are stuck into the insulation. If you purchased special mats with grooves for pipes, this procedure is not necessary.

8. Both ends of the pipe are brought to the place where the floor collector will be located. With its help, the system is connected to the main heating or access to the boiler.

9. After assembling the system, water is pumped into it and checked by creating maximum pressure. This is done to detect leaks and eliminate defects.

To reduce the cost of arranging a water circuit, pipes can not be laid in places where furniture will be located.

Important nuances

If the underfloor heating is laid under ceramic tiles, the thickness of the screed should not exceed 5 cm. Also, the pipes must be placed at a distance of 15 cm from each other so that they warm up the space to the required degree, and cold areas do not form between them.

Under linoleum and laminated panels, the screed is made even thinner, and for strength, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the heating system.

The first heating of the floor may take several days, but in the future the system will maintain the desired temperature. Some areas of the apartment can be heated all year round (where the floors are tiled). In this case, full warm-up in the cold season will take less time.

In conclusion, the topic will touch on the cost of warm water floors. In an apartment, taking into account the material and installation, experts will make floors for 1300-2600 rubles per m². The price depends on the quality of the purchased equipment and the complexity of the project. If you calculate, then the total amount is quite high, but after 5 years of operation the system fully pays off. And if we take into account its long service life (about 50 years) and the rising prices for heating, then, perhaps, all the trouble to install a water circuit is fully justified.

If during the autumn-winter cold the room still remains cool, you should think about how to keep warm using radical methods. Today, such an opportunity as the installation of a warm floor with a liquid heat carrier has proven itself well. The water heated floor system in the apartment is gradually replacing classic heaters and fans.

The device of a warm water floor in the apartment

A water heated floor in an apartment is a self-sufficient design and effectively heats a room of any size even in severe frosts. Polymer pipes circulate warm liquid coming from a gas boiler or central heating system. The air in the room heats up, and rising up, evenly distributes heat over the entire area of ​​​​the room.

This allows you to create the most optimal and comfortable conditions, thanks to which you can not be afraid of hypothermia of the legs, at the same time, the temperature near the ceiling decreases slightly. Doctors say that such a thermal regime is the most suitable for good health.

This type of structure is:

• flooring (laminate, tiles, etc.);
• laying layer;
• a pump that circulates water;
• heater;
• polymer pipes;
• fasteners and distribution manifolds.

This heating option increases the service life of the finishing floor covering, and makes it possible to apply original design solutions in the interior.

Is it possible to make a water heated floor

Not infrequently, the question arises whether it is possible to make a water-heated floor in multi-storey buildings? Today, legislative acts prohibit changes that relate to various improvements in piping schemes in housing stock where there is central heating. It can give an increased load, which was not taken into account at the time of designing the house. Forced circulation and a rather complicated installation of a special pump will be required.

But, theoretically, such systems can be installed in any room, the main thing is not to disturb the balance of the water flow and observe the conditions for dosing heat consumption. In addition, in new buildings, the layout provides for the presence of risers for connecting TVP.

To make the installation of the structure in the apartment legal - special permits from the representative of the housing and communal services and heating networks will help. The necessary documents will be issued only after checking the premises and agreeing on the equipment necessary for further use. Unauthorized connection of a warm floor threatens with fines, litigation and other troubles:

• if necessary, it will not be possible to legally sell the apartment;
• if there is a break in the circuit and the apartment of the neighbors below suffers, all repair costs will have to be paid in full.

Before you make a water heated floor in an apartment, you should calculate the possible consequences and negative risks, take into account the positive and negative qualities of this modernization.

Advantages and disadvantages of a water heated floor

In comparison with alternative heating systems, a warm water floor stands out with a number of undeniable advantages.

• Profitability. Water, which has a low temperature, reduces heat consumption in residential buildings by 20-30%. In spacious rooms with ceiling heights above average, the savings reach about 60%.
• Security. The heating elements hide the screed and the flooring layer. The risk of burns and injury is completely eliminated. This also applies to facts involving long contacts with a warm surface. The probability of the appearance of the fungus is reduced to zero, since there are no areas of increased dampness.
• Convenience. It is very pleasant to walk on such a floor without indoor slippers, and you can also not worry about the health of children who want to play on the floor.
  The humidity level practically does not change, the air does not dry out. The room warms up evenly, which allows you to obtain temperature conditions that are optimal for a person.
• Visually aesthetic interior. The system does not affect the overall design of the room, which cannot be said about traditional batteries and pipes. All parts and devices of the heating structure are hidden from prying eyes; redevelopment can be easily done. Radiators do not have to be hidden behind drywall panels or replaced with new ones.

In the process of using a water-heated floor from central heating, it requires lower costs than an electric one. The system practically does not require maintenance, and during installation all the necessary norms of sanitary, hygienic and environmental safety rules are observed.

Among the disadvantages are:

• high cost and complexity of installation - the basis of a multilayer structure includes several types of materials;
• the likelihood of a possible leak of pipes - you can find and fix the problem only by fully raising the floor covering;
• slow heating of the screed - this method is only suitable for rooms in which they live permanently.

Installation of a water heated floor in an apartment is not always possible. Some rooms will require the installation of additional heating sources (convectors or radiators).

Preparing for work on installing a water-heated floor in an apartment

Before starting work on installing a water-heated floor in an apartment from heating, you should calculate the amount of materials that will be needed to organize the system. To do this, it will be necessary to evaluate the characteristics of the finish coating, the area and features of the room (maintained temperature, window features, wall material, etc.). If there is a strong draft in the room, it is advisable to start insulating it first.

It is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of the pipes used for the circulation of the liquid acting as a heat carrier. Today the following types are most popular:

• foam;
• metal-plastic;
• copper;
• corrugated stainless steel

The length of the harvested pipes is affected by the laying method - a snail or a snake. The first option, despite the complexity of design and installation, is more efficient. In such a system, pipes with relatively hot and cool water alternate in series, evenly distributing warm air throughout the room.

Installation of the underfloor heating system

The device of a warm water floor in an apartment must begin with careful surface preparation. Construction debris should be removed and the base leveled. The horizontal plane should not have differences exceeding 5 mm. Otherwise, coolant stagnation zones are formed, as a result of which the structure may fail. There are three options for installing this heating system.

Concrete water floor heating system

The most popular installation method, in which a cement-sand screed is the main material in the base and distribution layer. A film is laid on the concrete layer, which provides thermal and waterproofing. Then, a special tape is glued around the perimeter of the room, which will prevent cracks and absorb the expansion of the screed when the circuit is heated.

On top of the thermal insulation, special grids with cells are mounted, and pipes are connected to them. It is important to correctly calculate the distance between them, it depends on how evenly the incoming heat will be distributed. Recommended laying step:

• in cold zones (near windows, doors) - 10 cm;
• in rooms with normal heat loss - 20-30 cm;
• in cold rooms - 15 cm.

For spacious rooms, a reinforcing mesh is used during installation. It is not recommended to lay pipes where furniture can be installed.

Structural elements are fixed, powered and maintained for several days. If there is no damage, fill the carrier layer with a mixture with the addition of cement, sand and plasticizers.

Then the final flooring is laid. If the laying of the water heating system in the apartment must be done under ceramic tiles, then the screed should not be wider than five centimeters.

Wooden floor heating system

Polystyrene underfloor heating system

Do-it-yourself water-heated floor in an apartment can be made using special heat-insulating plates. Products are distinguished by a special form of pressing and have the appearance of convex circles. They are the best suited for quick and convenient installation of pipes. The plates are securely interlocked with locks at the edges, thanks to which it is possible to create a monolith around the entire perimeter of the floor.

Is it possible to make water heated floors on your own without resorting to the help of specialists? This option is possible, but several recommendations should be taken into account.

• When arranging the heating structure, it is necessary to completely dismantle the old finish up to the concrete screed.
• Replace metal pipes (if any) with a plastic counterpart, this will avoid rust at the joints.
• Reliable waterproofing from a trusted manufacturer will save the floor from possible leaks.
• When installing insulation, be sure to glue the seams between the sheets with metallized tape. An additional layer of waterproofing will minimize all possible risks of leakage.
• If a laminate or natural wood was used as a finishing coating, the temperature of the coolant should be increased gradually. With a sharp jump, the material may be damaged, which will significantly reduce its service life.
• The water heated floor in the apartment from heating must be installed so that when the circuit is turned off, the coolant circulates in the central system. Filling the screed or laying the thermal distribution plates is necessary only on the filled system.

Features of operation and probable errors

When you connect a warm floor, the temperature in the apartment rises for a long time. It takes time for the floor, walls and air in the room to warm up, so installation should begin before the onset of the first cold weather.

During installation, certain errors are often made:

• independent connection to the riser - the pipe is constantly filled with coolant, to start work you need to get a special permit and completely drain the water;
• the impossibility of adjusting the temperature - you need to install a water collector and a mixing unit;
• lack of a project - you should not start work without determining the layout of pipes and dividing an apartment or house into heating zones;
• materials and components from different manufacturers - this common mistake can cause rapid depressurization of the structure.

Installation of such a system as a warm water floor is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. But, if you wish, you can handle the installation yourself, without involving specialists. The main thing is to obtain the necessary permission and strictly follow the recommendations for working with the materials used. However, so that the question of how to make a water-heated floor in apartments does not cause unnecessary financial costs, it is still better to seek qualified help.

Do-it-yourself installation of a water-heated floor in a bathroom in an apartment of a multi-storey building can solve many problems. According to a typical project, the bathroom is heated exclusively by a heated towel rail, which is clearly not enough for comfortable water procedures.

Cold floors, insufficient heating of the room - all this is a consequence of an insufficient and ill-conceived heating system. Not surprisingly, many homeowners are seriously considering upgrading their bathroom heating system.

Is it possible to make water floors in the bathroom

Installing a water floor in the bathroom is a personal matter only in the case of a private house. According to the housing code, any independent change in the design of the heating system is illegal.

Neighbors' complaints about the decrease in heating intensity are the rationale for initiating a lawsuit, the result of which will be an administrative penalty and an order to eliminate the changes in a short time.

On this basis, the legality of installing underfloor heating in an apartment building is dubious at best. The Housing Code allows you to change the design and layout of the heating system, but after obtaining the necessary permits and coordination with the relevant authorities. In any case, registration should begin with a visit to the housing and communal services.

Connecting a warm heated floor in the bathroom from a heated towel rail is one of the most commonly used solutions for heating a bathroom in a high-rise building. At the same time, it is extremely important to ensure that the heating temperature of the neighbors does not decrease. To do this, you can use a two-way valve.

How to install heated floors in the bathroom

It is not so difficult to make a water heated floor in the bathroom on your own, especially after obtaining all the necessary permits to change the heating system. It is enough to follow the basic installation steps.

In the shower and bathroom in an apartment building, in most cases, a water circuit is installed without a collector. A short distance of the heated area allows you to power the circuit from the heated towel rail and get a sufficient amount of thermal energy.

How to fill the floor in the bathroom

Self-installation of underfloor heating is much easier to carry out when using special leveling, leveling mixtures. At the same time, in order to make water floor heating in the bathroom and shower, you need to take care of the quality of the screed, which must meet the requirements:

1. Withstand temperature fluctuations- it is almost impossible to make a cement composition that can not crack after several years of operation, so it is best to opt for ready-made mixtures.
2. keep strong– Heated floors are subjected to constant loads from temperature and humidity fluctuations. To reduce the negative impact, it will be necessary to lay a layer of reinforcing mesh. Fittings are especially necessary if you plan to install a ladder in the shower.

The composition of the "pie" of the floor consists of: waterproofing, reinforcing mesh, foil insulation and thermal insulation. A high-quality screed allows you to connect all four types of layers and make almost a monolith.

How to connect a water floor in the bathroom

There are several solutions for how to make and power a water floor in a shower or bath. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

• From the heated towel rail- the temperature of the coolant will remain unchanged. Since in most multi-storey buildings heated towel rails are connected from the hot water return, the heating intensity largely depends on how much the coolant has time to cool.
• From the boiler - the solution has certain advantages, consisting in the possibility of adjusting the water heating of the bathroom floor. You will need to install a thermostat.
• From the central heating system- a bath with a warm water floor can be connected to the heating system of the apartment. Before carrying out work, you will need to obtain permits and make a technical project.

Common mistakes during installation and connection

For laying underfloor heating in the bathroom, everything must be done in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Judging by the feedback from consumers and the reports of teams that have to redo and repair heating systems, the main violations during installation are:

1. Lack of waterproofing in the bathroom with underfloor heating. During the installation work, the prevention of leakage is neglected. Waterproofing is a layer that prevents moisture from entering neighbors in the event of a water circuit breakthrough. It is also necessary to waterproof the floor before laying the floor water heating system of the bathroom in a warm floor in polypropylene.
2. Lack of a work plan and laying scheme. Preliminary calculations help to perform the installation quickly and efficiently, to avoid overspending of material.
3. Performing installation work without obtaining a permit. After laying, getting approval is much more problematic.
4. Filling the screed with ordinary cement mortar. The technology for installing water heated floors in the bathroom of a private house or apartment requires the use of adhesives with the addition of plasticizers and additives. Without additives, cement eventually begins to crumble, crack and become unusable.

Heated floors in the bathroom - electric or water

Only one question remains unresolved, which warm floor in the bath is better, electric or water. Each option has its own advantages.

So, the electric floor is best laid in an apartment building. The solution does not require permits for installation. Laying requires less material costs and is faster.

Water floors are completely safe. Fire and short circuit are excluded. In an apartment building, their use does not carry an additional material burden.

Often, an underfloor heating is used as an additional heating device to the main heat supply. The most common types of floor heating are water and electrical systems. The electric variety of underfloor heating is mostly used to heat up cold tiles as quickly as possible, used as a finish on the floor of a loggia, veranda or bathroom. Sometimes such heating is equipped as an additional to central heating. Electric underfloor heating is mainly installed in rooms where water heating cannot be installed. Reviews of many users indicate that the invention "Warm floor" is profitable, convenient and comfortable.

Water heated floor in an apartment or house: installation principles

A warm water floor is essentially a complex multi-component system, where each part performs its own function.

According to the principle of arrangement, underfloor heating is divided into the following types:

• Dry, used mainly in private houses with wooden floors;
• Wet, filled with screed and concrete.

The most common is the wet type of installation, since it is concrete floors that need heating most of all.

A warm water floor must be mounted on a stable and solid base. They can be any concrete slab or hard ground. A vapor barrier is laid on such a base, mainly from polyethylene. Its thickness must be at least 0.1 mm. At the next stage of laying the "pie" insulation is applied. It can be extruded polystyrene foam, which has a very low thermal conductivity, reasonable cost and high mechanical strength. A cement-sand screed is laid on top of the insulation. For ease of laying and mobility of the mixture, it is necessary to add a plasticizer to it. The screed must be reinforced with a metal wire mesh with a mesh pitch of 50 * 50 mm. Sometimes weaving 100 * 100 mm is also used. Warm heating pipes with a coolant circulating through them must pass through the screed inside. The height of the screed above the pipes should be at least 3 cm. However, experts say that 5 cm will be better, since the strength of the coating in this case is much higher, which means that the heat distribution area over the floor will be more uniform.

Underfloor heating water from central heating: types of flooring

In the place where the floor adjoins the wall, as well as at the ends of the hot water heating circuits, a damper tape must be laid to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete during heating. The top covering of a floor is that material which is intended for work with heating.

The following types of construction activities are most suitable for these purposes:

• Ceramic tile;
• Laminate;
• Porcelain stoneware;
• Carpet.

However, when choosing the material that you will use for arranging a warm floor, check for the presence of a special icon in the marking, indicating that the material is suitable for use in order to equip a warm floor. In addition, it must be remembered that for a longer service life of the floor covering, it is necessary to observe the thermal regime in the room.

How to make a water heated floor in an apartment: room requirements

In addition to the requirements for flooring, for the correct functioning of the "Warm floor" system, it is necessary to observe other conditions that positively affect the operation of the equipment. Some of them relate to the room in which the heating will work.

The most competent solution is the option when the construction of an underfloor heating pipeline is planned at the initial stages of building a house.

This heating system is now quite widespread in countries such as Sweden, Germany, Canada and Norway. Other economically successful countries, where energy resources are quite expensive, also use systems that help reduce heating costs, including underfloor heating. Underfloor heating is considered to be 30-40% more economical than the usual radiator.

In an already finished room, it is also quite possible to equip the “Heat floor” heating system, however, for this, the room must meet the following requirements:

• Considering that the thickness of the coating of a warm water floor reaches 8 - 20 cm, the height of the ceilings in such a room should make it possible to mount this heating system and not make the room too low.
• It is important to take into account the size of the door openings, which cannot be less than 210 cm in height.
• The solid base under the floor must be very strong, otherwise it will not be able to withstand the cement-sand screed.
• The base must also be smooth, clean and even, and if there are irregularities, they cannot exceed 5 mm;
• In the room in which you plan to start the arrangement of a warm floor, finishing and plastering work must be completed, the windows must be in place.

Heat loss in the premises should be at the level of 100 W / m 2. If their indicator is greater, then measures for warming must be taken.

The floor is warm from hot water in the apartment: elements of the heating system

The principle of operation of such a device as a water heated floor is quite simple. Under the flooring there are pipes through which the coolant (water) flows from the common heating system. It gives off heat to the floor, and thus heats the floor covering, then the law of physics causes the warm air to quickly rise up and heat the room.

The system "Warm water floor" consists of the following elements:

• Hot water boiler;
• Pump to increase water circulation in the system;
• Ball valves;
• Pipes for wiring through which water flows;
• Collector;
• Regulatory system;
• Fittings for connecting the pipeline to the manifold.

The boiler you choose must be powerful enough to handle the amount of water you have in your system. In addition, the unit must have 15-20% power reserve.

Water heated floor in the apartment (video)

Traditional radiators and batteries, which for many years were considered the only acceptable source of heat, are now giving way to new systems, such as underfloor heating or heating baseboards. Many are willing to implement innovative methods, and immediately feel their benefits. However, warm floors were previously used in some institutions, such as kindergartens and schools, but these were exceptional cases and they were practically not used in private homes. Today, the arrangement of underfloor heating is practically put on the conveyor, and everyone can equip a warm water floor in their apartment or house with their own hands.