How to repair a broken plastic part. How to fix broken plastic items How to repair a plastic slide

Plastic repair using an industrial hair dryer is the most optimal and reliable option. Such a weld will not be inferior in strength to any other section of the part, and if another thick layer is welded on the inside, you will get the strongest section on the entire part.

It may seem why other methods of restoring the plastic of moto and auto parts are needed, but everything is not so simple - you need to have the appropriate skills before undertaking repairs. Experts recommend trying on unnecessary plastic with a crack to “fill your hand” before taking directly on plastic repair motorcycle or car parts.

The first test will show that you most likely simply deform the part or under-weld the seam - such repairs will not bring any result. In addition to practice, a financial issue arises - to carry out such work, you will need the hairdryer itself, with the ability to adjust the air supply and adjust the temperature conditions - such a product will cost about 3-5 thousand rubles + special nozzles.

If such costs do not frighten the average user, then you can proceed directly to do-it-yourself plastic repair.

We select the necessary material and tools for plastic repair

For execution do-it-yourself plastic repair you will need the following materials:

• Industrial dryer. Experts recommend using models from famous brands such as Makita, Bosh, HG, etc. Read the reviews and see for yourself - these models are very practical, durable and reliable. With them, you can safely repair plastic parts for several years. Some craftsmen use hair dryers for soldering radio components - they are ideal for soldering small cracks;
• A set of special nozzles, with a diameter of 5 to 8 mm. In most cases, they are sold separately from the hair dryer itself. Depending on the brand, they can cost from 100 to 800 rubles. For example, on the same Makita, one nozzle costs about 600-700 rubles;
• Solder plastic. It should be remembered that the plastic must be identical to the plastic of the part. It can be purchased at a specialized store or cut yourself using old identical parts. Usually, "store" solder is sold in coils - it is convenient and practical.

To repair plastic, you can use additional tools, such as:

• Grinding machine - the master will need to grind the seam. It is not necessary to buy it, because sandpaper or a set of files is ideal for such purposes;
• Several clips to secure the seam. They can be purchased at any building market.

If everything is completed, then you can safely proceed to the work.

Step by step instructions for plastic repair

Consider plastic repair step by step, so that it becomes clear even to an inexperienced repairman:

• Initially, you should find out the composition of the material from which the damaged part is made. Pay special attention to the fact that the plastic of the solder must be identical to the plastic of the part being repaired. Given this factor, the craftsmen set the required temperature for heating the air - if the solder and the part itself do not match, one of the materials will not warm up well and simply fall off. Or overheating will happen and the part, like the solder, will “float”, which will lead to a disastrous result. The material index (marking of the plastic part) can be found by looking behind the back of the component being repaired. In most cases, there are three main types of plastic: PP (polypropylene parts), ABS (acrylonitrile, butadiene and styrene products), and finally, PA (polyamide parts);

• Cleaning parts before repair work. Before starting restoration work, the edges of the crack in the damaged part must be carefully cleaned to get rid of protruding plastic teeth and chips. These manipulations are easy to perform with a file or sandpaper - experts recommend cleaning 5-10 mm from the edge of the fault on each side;

• Part assembly. In the event that the part has crumbled into several separate pieces, the master will have to sweat and assemble the part in the manner of a puzzle. Each individual element will have to be cleaned around the edges and installed in its rightful place. So that the “assembly” does not fall apart, we fasten the entire mosaic with clamps (similar to small clothespins). Their cost is low and they can be easily obtained at any hardware store (the price does not exceed 70 rubles per 1 piece);

• Welding work. We take one rod (solder), sharpen its tip and gently press it to the edge of the cleaned fracture. As it heats up, we begin to heat the solder and plastic. With the temperature regime and the level of air supply correctly set, we begin welding work by warming up the twig and leaning it against the heated part. The jet of air itself will press the heated plastic, so you don’t need to do anything with your hands.

That's it, we have completed the repair work.

Brief summary

Now you know how to restore a plastic part on your own, without contacting specialists. After welding, it remains only to align the protruding welding to the level of the part and that's it. It remains only to paint the part and install it on a motorcycle or car.

Video - do-it-yourself plastic repair

Plastic has many advantages, but it also has one significant drawback - fragility. Plastic products may crack, break, pieces may break off, etc. If the damage is significant, then the thing is easier to throw away and buy a new one than to repair it, but minor damage is quite possible to fix it yourself. Restoration of plastic can be carried out by different methods, the choice of which largely depends on the type of plastic itself. On many plastic products, you can find markings with the composition of the plastic and this will help in choosing a recovery technology. So, thermoplastics are glued with a special glue, and thermoplastics are sealed. Also, the method of repairing plastic products also depends on the nature of the damage - a crack, a scratch, a chip, etc.

When repairing plastic items, the following materials and tools may be needed: solvents (for example, acetone), sanding paper No. 1000, soldering iron or plastic glue, clamps, abrasive paste, brushes or syringe, solder, plastic cleaner, brass mesh, primer and paint for plastic, grinder, varnish.

Repair plastic with glue

• Before starting the restoration, the plastic is treated with sanding paper, removing dirt. It is also necessary to degrease the place of gluing.
• Glue is applied to the crack or seam with a brush or syringe. If necessary, parts of the plastic to be glued can be reinforced with fiberglass.
• Next, combine the parts so that they do not move and at the same time tightly pressed against each other. For best results, you can use a clamp.

Soldering plastic repair

Repairing plastic with epoxy

For this method, you will need an epoxy pier and hardener, fiberglass or serpentine tape (sold in hardware stores), acetone, castor oil, a file and sanding paper, electrical tape or adhesive tape, plastic utensils and wooden sticks, primer for plastic, polyester putty, car enamel.

You will need

• - soldering iron or glue;
• - acetone;
• - sponge;
• - emery;
• - fiberglass;
• - solder wire;
• - clamp or masking tape;
• - fittings;
• - primer for plastic;
• - dye;
• - varnish.

Instruction

Find out the composition of the plastic - its marking should be indicated on the inside of the product (for example, PA - polyamide or PP -). It is important to study the properties of this material, since the type of bonding or welding will depend on this. Thermoplastic polymers (plexiglass, polyethylene, polypropylene and others) are easy to process. But you will not be able to melt the so-called thermoplastics (they contain phenol-formaldehyde, epoxy and other resins and fillers). You will need special glue.

Select an adhesive in the building material, epoxy for this type of plastic and consult with a competent seller. Follow the manufacturer's instructions exactly. Sand the surfaces to be bonded, clean them of dirt and degrease with acetone. You can glue the fault directly along the seam, or you can pre-strengthen it with fiberglass.

Use solder wire of identical chemical composition to solder a leaky plastic part. Treat the working parts with sandpaper a centimeter from the edge, as the part to be welded will have to step on the left allowance for the strength of the seam. Gather the pieces of broken plastic and fix them with a clamp (fixing tool) or masking tape.

Start thin plastic from the “face” so that an ugly bump does not appear on the visible surface. You can repair plastic of a denser composition immediately from the wrong side. Run the soldering iron over the crack; apply solder and fuse it into the thickness of the softened material. From the back of the work, you can use a thicker wire.

Some craftsmen combine plastic soldering with reinforcement (strengthening the structure). To do this, it is recommended to purchase a special brass or bronze mesh (about 0.2 mm thick). Cut the reinforcing material into strips of the desired size. Your task is to attach the amplifier to the inner surface of the chip and (heating the plastic with a soldering iron) drown it in the molten material.

Get ready for a plastic facelift. The glued or soldered surface must be washed, sanded with #1000 sandpaper and wiped with acetone.

Shake the bottle of plastic primer, shake it for 10 minutes and apply to the damaged part from a distance of 20 cm. If the packaging has other instructions, be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Cover the plastic with 2-3 layers of primer (depending on the depth of damage), let it dry and again walk over the product with emery and acetone.

The final step in the repair of plastic will be the spraying of a special dye. Make sure that it is designed specifically for this material. Apply the required number of decorative layers; before each new coating, let the previous one dry for 15-20 minutes. If necessary, one hour after painting, varnish the product. You managed to repair the plastic, but until it dries completely, it must be protected from dust and other contaminants.

Often, we need to glue broken or cracked plastic items, from the temples of eyeglasses to the bumper of a car. It may also be necessary to glue a hook in the bathroom or a holder for a garden sprayer. The essence of the gluing process is the dissolution of the surface layer of two workpieces and the formation of a plastic layer from this solution, common to both parts. After hardening, the parts form a single whole, or, as they say, "stick together tightly."

Determine the type of plastic

in order to reliably glue plastic, first of all, you need to find out what kind of plastic the object is made of. Knowing the plastic, you can choose the most suitable adhesive for it.

All manufacturers put recycling symbols on their plastic products - this is the well-known Recycling Triangle - a triangle with arrows on the sides, symbolizing the reuse of materials.

The triangle contains numbers from one to seven. Often the numbers are supplemented by an abbreviation. According to these designations, the type of plastic is determined.

What does the marking on plastic mean?

• PET low pressure polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate. It is mainly used for packing or packaging food products. It is produced in the form of a film, bags or transparent containers for liquid and bulk goods, as well as drinks.
• HDPE compacted low pressure polyethylene. It is used for the production of shrink film and packaging bags.
• V (PVC) polyvinyl chloride is a non-food plastic used for the manufacture of strong and durable items, such as household buckets, metal-plastic window frames, linoleum.
• LDPE High pressure low density polyethylene. It is used in the production of bottles for drinks and dairy products, packaging bags, toys, pipes for cold water.
• PP polypropylene. Plastic is not chemically active, heat-resistant (up to 150 °C), is most widely used in the production of medical products, heat-resistant dishes and household utensils, toys, pipes and fittings for hot water, and much more.
• PS polystyrene. Also, food grade plastic, disposable tableware, household utensils, and cases of kitchen appliances are made from it. If it is foamed, it forms an excellent porous heat insulator - foam used in everyday life and in construction work.
• O Other (other) - materials that are not intended for recycling, for example, with inclusions of metal, paper or other substances). This also includes plastics that do not belong to one of the six groups.

PS - polystyrene

To reliably glue plastic, you need to carefully consider the markings on the product and select an adhesive designed for polymers of this group. There is another way to determine the type of plastic - a small piece of it must be set on fire. Each type burns with a characteristic smell and type of flame. For reliable application of this method at home, you need to gain considerable experience.

Glue marking

Glue tubes are also marked, it's a pity that the notation does not always match the symbols in the triangle on the plastic product. Most often, the following symbols can be seen on the tube:

• PC-polycarbonate (used to cover greenhouses and sheds).
• ABS is an acrylonitrile copolymer.
• PP polypropylene.
• PPMA organic glass for general use.
• PE is a well-known polyethylene.
• PVC is another friend - vinyl, or polyvinyl chloride.
• PS - polystyrene.
• PA 66 - polyamide.
• PUR polyurethane.

If you are not an expert in organic chemistry, then most likely, further study of labeling at home will not be successful. It is better to read in the user manual, which must be attached to the tube, which plastics can be glued with it.

Types of adhesives

The variety of plastics used in everyday life corresponds to an equally wide variety of manufactured compositions and methods of their application.

How to glue plastic

To dissolve the surface layer of the material, it is necessary to destroy the chemical bonds between the molecules. For this, special substances are used - strong solvents. Each solvent is suitable for its own group of plastics, and may not even leave a trace on a material from another group. At the heart of each adhesive composition is such a solvent. In addition, the composition may include:

• a hardener that promotes its drying;
• filler - dissolved molecules of the substance for which the adhesive is intended.

One of the strongest solvents is dichloroethane. It is used to glue polystyrene and plexiglass.

Depending on the method of application, the funds are divided into several groups:

• liquid;
• contact;
• reactionary;
• hot melt adhesives.

Liquid

Liquids are widely used in everyday life, they are easily and simply used at home for gluing plastic with a porous structure. They are available both on the basis of an organic solvent and on a water basis. They are applied to surfaces that are pressed against each other for a time sufficient to evaporate the base. After that, the adhesive layer hardens, forming a connecting seam. PVA glue is a typical example; it can be used to glue not only linoleum, but also wood at home.

Contact

Gluing takes place in two stages:

• the surfaces to be glued are lubricated with a thin layer, which dissolves the surface layer of plastic, softening it and facilitating contact with another surface;
• after a few minutes, the parts are pressed against each other with force, the softened layers are mixed, the solvent evaporates and a seam is formed.

This is how Moment, BF-2 and others work. They can glue polystyrene and other plastics at home. They contain toxic substances, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area and avoid getting drops on the skin or mucous membranes.

reactionary

One-component reactive agents dissolve the bonded material very quickly and harden just as quickly. These are such well-known brands as Secunda, Superglue and their analogues. The seam is strong and rigid.

Two-component consist, respectively, of two components stored separately from each other:

• hardener;
• fixer.

The components are mixed immediately before use and applied to surfaces where the mixture hardens to form a joint. The basis is epoxy or polyester resins. The seam at home is very durable. A characteristic feature is that complete hardening takes a long time, and the seam gradually increases both strength and brittleness.

Hot melt adhesives

This group includes substances that exhibit their properties when heated to 110-120 ° C. For application, you need a special glue gun with a heating element. Differs in accuracy of drawing. In addition to plastic, they can glue wood, fabric, paper at home.

How to glue plastic tightly at home

After the type of plastic has been determined and the appropriate substance has been selected, one should:

• thoroughly degrease the surfaces to be bonded. To do this, use alcohol, a degreaser or a soap solution (only laundry soap);
• to more reliably glue objects, you need to increase the wettability. To do this, treat the surfaces with a velvet file or thin sandpaper;
• mix two-component reactive substances only after completion of the preparation of parts;
• do not use brushes with natural bristles;
• apply enough adhesive so that when pressing the workpieces, the excess does not squeeze out beyond the gluing zone.

The parts should be pressed in such a way as to exclude their displacement in the plane of gluing relative to each other.

How to achieve maximum effect when gluing plastic parts

In order for gluing plastic at home to give the maximum effect, you should:

• accurately determine the material and select the appropriate adhesive for it;
• carefully follow the instructions for use;
• wait the set time for the seam to gain strength and do not try to use the product ahead of time;
• for outdoor work or for items used in conditions of high humidity, you need to choose a waterproof brand;
• despite the declared heat resistance of the adhesive, the parts themselves may not survive this temperature;
• if there is no marking on the product, then you can try to drop a drop of adhesive in an inconspicuous place and see if the material dissolves.

Epoxy glue gives one of the strongest bonds and is compatible with many types of plastics.

What affects the reliability of bonding

The reliability of the seam is affected by a number of conditions. All of them are important, and failure to follow one of them can lead to the fact that the glued at home will fall off, despite the observance of all the others. So:

1. Compliance of the material of the product and the adhesive composition.
2. Correspondence of the type of adhesive composition with the magnitude of the forces that the connection will experience. Equally important is the direction of these efforts. So, compounds that give rigid seams are not suitable for repairing, for example, shoes - after all, the sole will bend and twist during operation, despite the fact that the tensile force will be small. At the same time, this composition can successfully glue, say, a hook to glass, and hang tens of kilograms on it.
3. Compliance with the technology of application. Everything is important here - and how many seconds or minutes it is necessary to compress the surfaces, and how to degrease them, and how much to keep the parts pressed against each other. All this depends on the properties of a particular “plastic-glue” pair, is described in detail in the instructions and must be followed verbatim. A one-second deviation in dwell time or early use of the product may result in secondary failure.
4. The mechanical part of the process. It is important to thoroughly clean the surface of dust and roughen it. In addition, the direction of pressing the parts to each other must be perpendicular to the surfaces to be glued. It is impossible to allow mutual displacement of parts after pressing - this will also lead to failure.

Gluing plastic tightly is not so easy. Carefully following the simple rules by the home master will allow you to get strong and durable connections. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions: do not inhale the vapors of the adhesive composition and prevent it from getting into food, on the skin or mucous membranes. In case of accidental swallowing, you should immediately consult a doctor, be sure to take the tube with you.

Plastic plastic discord

First, let's figure out what plastic is and what it happens to be. Plastics are commonly referred to as materials that are a combination of synthetic (rarely natural) polymers with organic impurities, which are added to impart various properties to the finished product during its formation from a viscous-flowing state to a solid one.

Depending on the reaction to elevated temperatures, plastics, in turn, are divided into thermoplastic and thermosetting. Thermoplastics change from a solid to an elastic state when heated, and this change is reversible and can be repeated many times. Thermoplastics include polyethylene, polystyrene, polycarbonate, polyvinyl chloride, polypropylene, polymethyl methacrylate, and polyamide.

In the automotive industry, polypropylene is the most commonly used: it is excellent for the manufacture of bumpers and other parts that experience various shock loads and are most often damaged. Polypropylene is very elastic and is able to restore its shape with light blows, but it is good not only for this. In case of damage, parts made of polypropylene are easy to repair, since this material perfectly tolerates such a popular plastic repair method as soldering.

Thermosetting plastics have a linear structure, being an infusible material that breaks down as a result of heating and does not restore its original properties when cooled down. Such materials include polyurethane, polyester, carbamide and phenol-formaldehyde resins. The most widely used plastics in the automotive industry are based on polyester resins. Unlike pliable polypropylene, polyester plastic parts are highly rigid, so this material is usually used for hoods, roofs and trunk lids. It must be remembered that when repairing such parts, the use of soldering is strictly unacceptable.

School repair

Restoration work on plastic parts is divided into two categories - deep structural repairs and cosmetic repairs. With a complete renovation, defects caused by damage to the structural integrity of the part or the loss of part of it are eliminated, cosmetic repairs solve the problem of surface damage - the elimination of chips, scratches and cracks.

For the repair of surface defects in plastic parts, a two-component polymercaptan-epoxy mixture is best suited. When hardening, this material not only provides the necessary strength of the repair area, but also retains elasticity. A part repaired using this mixture is able to fully restore its original properties and withstand the design impact loads.

When working with parts made of propylene, the problem often arises of the lack of sufficient adhesion of the repair material to the surface of the restored plastic part. This is due to the low surface energy of propylene, which leads to weak intermolecular interaction. Simply put, one material cannot cling to another. In order to increase the adhesive ability, it is necessary to use a polyolefin activator containing polyolefins (polypropylene, polyethylene, ethylene-propylene rubbers) in its structure.

To repair serious damage, you can not do without a special two-component adhesive based on polyurethane. This composition is characterized by a high polymerization rate (drying time is only 30 seconds), which allows gluing and restoring the lost parts of plastic in the process. After restoring the shape of the lost element and complete polymerization of the composition, it can be processed (drilled, polished) and painted. When using a two-component adhesive, it is possible to repair not only the plastic element itself, returning it to its original presentation, but also its fasteners. For example, this applies to bumper mounts that have received minor damage - in this case, there is no need to replace an expensive part.

Material prepared jointly with 3M

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