With "straight" hands, most of the housework can be done independently. This category of work includes the installation of a toilet bowl. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done by hand.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation - a task of medium complexity
Types of toilets
In this article, we will consider not the features of the flush or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list of installation work.
According to the installation method
The toilet itself consists of a sanitary bowl and a drain tank. The bowl can be floor mounted or suspended. If the bowl is suspended, then the tank is flush-mounted - built into the wall. In the case of a floor bowl, there are three options for fixing the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected with a flexible hose, in the installation (hidden in the frame wall).
The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush cistern is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to the hanging one, it takes up more space, looks more heavy. Accordingly, the installation of suspended models is complicated - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps it is only during the repair.
Release to the sewer
The choice of toilet for release into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:
If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet is optimal. If the exit is in the floor, but is close to the wall, the oblique toilet is most convenient. The horizontal version is universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected both to the wall and to the floor.
Installing a toilet bowl with a compact cistern (floor version)
A toilet bowl, a tank, a drain device and a float are usually brought from the store separately. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.
What does a floor-standing toilet with a "compact" cistern consist of?
Assembly
The process begins with the installation of a drain device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in a hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drain device and the tank.
On the reverse side, the supplied plastic washer is screwed onto the pipe. It is tightened by hand, then - using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held by hand.
The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included in the standard package. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, rubber gaskets are put on, then washers, and only then nuts are screwed on.
Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “planted” on a sealant. First we coat it on one side, put it on the toilet bowl, coat it on the other, put the tank.
We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers, nuts on the screws from below, tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.
Next, we put a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes in the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.
We wind a little flax on the outlet pipe, coat it with sanitary paste, install a corner (brass or stainless). Do not tighten the connection strongly, do not clog that the pipe is made of plastic.
Installing a tee
Floor mounting
The toilet is almost assembled, you can put it in place. The toilet bowl is connected to the sewerage by means of a corrugated adapter. At the ends, it has rubber seals that fit snugly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.
If the sewer pipe is plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted all the way. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference on a dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then a corrugation is inserted. For greater certainty, you can go through the sealant on the outside of the joint.
In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.
The second end of the corrugation is put on the outlet of the toilet bowl. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Everything is so simple. There is only one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with soap moistened with water, only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, it will be problematic to remove the toilet without damaging the corrugation. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove, rather than trying to move a partially fixed device.
Putting the corrugation on the outlet, we expose the toilet as it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is a place for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, if necessary, correct the position. Then they take a pencil or marker, inserting it into the holes in the sole, mark the places for installing fasteners.
Having removed the toilet bowl, holes for the dowels are drilled in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use it - it will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately put powerful dowels.
If the toilet is installed on a tile so that it does not crack, it is better to pierce the glazed surface. They take a self-tapping screw, mark it, hit it with a hammer several times. This is what is called "pinching". Then they take a drill or a puncher and drill a tile, turning off the shock mode. After the tile is passed, you can turn on the perforation mode.
We put plastic plugs from dowels in the holes. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.
We sweep the floor, removing dust at the installation site of the toilet. We put it in place, insert the dowels into the holes, twist them with the appropriate key. It is necessary to tighten the bolts alternately on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet becomes firmly, without play.
The final touch is the connection to the water supply. Connect the outlet of the water pipe to the tap installed on it with the corner on the tank, which was connected earlier. This requires a flexible hose. At its ends there are union nuts (American), so there will be no problems with fastening. Tighten well, but without fanaticism.
How to install a wall hung toilet with installation
To install hanging toilets, the outlet of the sewer pipe must be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - from the far edge of the order of 13-15 cm. If the exit from the floor, there is a solution - a special overlay with which the drain is transferred closer to the wall.
The installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with fixing the stops to the wall to the installation frame. They are attached two at the top and at the bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame rises and starts.
The upper stops are in the form of rods, adjustable with a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The bottom stops are more like plates, they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with a side head.
The assembled frame is attached to the wall, its center is exposed above the middle of the sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).
Using a bubble level, the horizontal and vertical installation of the wall-hung toilet installation is checked.
Checking the horizontal
By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, set by the manufacturer, is set. How convenient it is to do, look at the photo.
The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. In appropriate places put marks with a pencil or marker, drill holes. They are equipped with plastic housing dowels. Most of the hanging toilets are imported, and they recommend planting the dowel bodies on the sealant. Some of the sealant is squeezed into the drilled hole, a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic case.
In a fixed installation, you can put connecting elements - branch pipes, couplings. They are all included and simply snap into place.
Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be held. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, silicone seals are put on top (in the lower photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).
The sewer pipe extends to the desired distance, is fixed in a predetermined position with a bracket. It covers the pipe from above, is inserted into the groove until it clicks.
Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it is latched), the plug on the side surface is removed. Right or left - depends on where you have water. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, the counterpart is inserted from the inside, everything is connected with a union nut. It is necessary to tighten without applying excessive force - it is plastic.
A tee is installed inside the tank, a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. They do this with the help of an adapter and an American.
A hose from the tank is connected to a special tee inlet. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a cap nut.
Install the cover in place. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall of moisture-resistant drywall. It is recommended to put two sheets, but you can use one. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.
The toilet bowl is put on the pins, its outlet goes into the plastic socket. The connection is tight, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet with the installation.
The final step in the repair of the bathroom is the installation and fastening of the toilet bowl. This is a responsible task, since the toilet bowl is not only an interior decoration, but also a functional device.
Often, even if repairs are done on their own, craftsmen are invited to perform this work, but if the builder has the desire and initial skills, installation and fastening of the toilet to the floor can be done on their own. Of course, it is necessary to approach the solution of the issue with full responsibility and prepare.
Varieties and features of the installation of toilet bowls
There are many models of toilet bowls, which differ in a number of ways. Different models have a different design, provide a different degree of comfort, differ in the installation method. When choosing a mounting method, it is important to consider the main characteristics of the device.
The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a toilet is the layout. There are three popular toilet bowl schemes.
The separate type differs in that the tank is far from the bowl at a considerable distance. This guarantees a powerful pressure, but also a strong noise. Installation is quite complicated, since you need to separately mount the bowl and tank. The scheme is outdated and practically not used.
Note! The "compact" system is by far the most common. It is distinguished by simplicity and functionality. The tank is placed simply on the bowl, which ensures ease of use and ease of installation.
Monoblocks have similar characteristics. In this case, the tank and the toilet are one. Such a system is easy to install, you can use dowels, glue. Installation is extremely simple, just attach the toilet to the floor and bring water to the tank.
The list of materials from which toilet bowls are made is wide. When choosing a method of operation, it is worth considering this characteristic of the device. Most often you can find:
- faience;
- porcelain;
- reinforced acrylic;
- cast iron;
- steel.
Often you can see bowls made of exotic materials, stone or even glass. To install such products, you must follow the manufacturer's recommendations, but it is better not to take risks and call the master.
Bowls made of cast iron and steel are most suitable for installation in public places, but for the home they choose one of the first three varieties. Faience, porcelain and acrylic can be attached by almost any known method.
Fastening with dowels or anchor bolts
This method is only suitable for those models that have mounting holes in the base of the bowl. These are “ears” with holes into which the dowel is screwed, or holes in the wall, designed for hidden fastening with the help of corners.
Before starting work, you need to prepare the tool. It will take quite a bit:
- roulette;
- marker or pencil;
- electric drill and drill bits for concrete;
- core and hammer.
You also need fasteners for the toilet (as a rule, it is included in the delivery), a key or a screwdriver (depending on the shape of the dowel or bolt head).
Step 1: fitting and marking
As you might guess, you need to start by choosing a place. This is unlikely to be a problem, the toilet is not a room where you can roam a lot. It is better to try on a model, because a toilet bowl is brought into the room. It is worth once again measuring the distance to the drain and the indents from the walls, the device should look good, stand securely, not stagger, there should be enough space between the wall and the side.
Mark up immediately. The easiest way is to outline the contours of the base of the bowl with a marker, separately marking the attachment points.
Step 2: drilling
The most important thing is to drill the flooring. Tile requires special care. Before starting work, holes are marked with a core, this will prevent the drill from jumping off and ruining the repair. Drill tiles at low speed.
The hole should be a few millimeters deeper than the dowel used, and the plastic insert included in the delivery should fit snugly into it. The criteria for an anchor bolt are the same, it should fit easily enough into the hole, but not dangle.
Step 3: installation
Before putting the bowl in place, you need to remove the traces of drilling. Be sure to remove concrete chips, shards of tiles. Plastic dowel inserts are inserted into the prepared holes, if necessary, they are finished off with light hammer blows through a bar gasket. Put the toilet in place. You can screw it, but it is important not to forget the rubber or nylon washers, they will secure the material of the bowl.
In the same way, toilet bowls are installed that do not have a vertical, but a lateral mount. For their fixation, special corner fasteners are used, while the sequence of actions does not change.
Glue installation
The method of installing a toilet bowl using adhesives is not inferior to the previous one in popularity, which is not surprising, because it provides the proper result and has a number of advantages. The use of glue is:
- clean installation without noise and dust;
- ease of operation, even a beginner can handle it;
- the method allows you to fix the toilet from any material;
- absolute safety, the floor is guaranteed not to be damaged;
- reliability due to the use of modern materials.
The only significant drawback of this method is that it will be possible to use the toilet only after the glue has completely solidified, and this is up to a day or more.
This installation method requires virtually no tools, just stock up on a tape measure and a marking pencil and a small spatula to remove excess adhesive. Of course, you can not do without glue. The choice of a particular brand depends on the wishes of the owner, you can recommend a time-tested epoxy resin.
Step 1: fitting and marking
This stage is not much different from the one described above, the only thing is that you do not need to mark the holes, they simply will not be. It is enough to put the toilet in the chosen place, make sure that its location meets your own wishes, measure the distances to the walls with a tape measure and trace the outline of the base with a pencil or marker.
Step 2: surface preparation
One of the main conditions for the reliability of an adhesive bond is smooth and clean mating surfaces. You need to start from the base of the bowl. Using fine-grained sandpaper, level the surface.
Next, move on to the floor. The tile is degreased with ammonia, and then wiped dry with a napkin. In some cases, it is advisable to sand the floor covering with sandpaper, but this must be done with all possible care.
Step 3: gluing
An adhesive or sealant is applied to the edge of the base of the toilet bowl. It is important to apply just the right amount. If there is too little glue, it will not be possible to achieve proper reliability, otherwise the excess can ruin the look of a fresh repair.
The prepared toilet bowl is lifted and transferred to the installation site. Here it is better to work with an assistant, he will help you navigate and put the device exactly in the chosen place.
Immediately sprinkle the floor around the bowl with soapy water, this will facilitate the removal of excess adhesive and ensure the cleanliness of the room. With a narrow spatula, remove glue streaks, leave the toilet until the seam is completely solidified. During drying, it is advisable not only not to use the device, but also not to touch it.
Mounting on taffeta
This method is most suitable for installing a toilet in the bathroom of a wooden house. Its feature is a wooden lining (taffeta), on which the plumbing device is installed. The method is distinguished by the simplicity of work and the availability of the materials used.
Important! First, cut out the lining itself. For this, durable wood is used, the dimensions are easiest to note according to the sample. The finished plank is lightly cleaned with sandpaper, impregnated with drying oil.
The next step is to create anchors, clamps that will not allow the board to move. Sufficient reliability will provide nails hammered into the board at different angles, for greater reliability, you can use anchor bolts.
A recess is left in the screed at the installation site. Pour the solution into it. Immediately, without letting the concrete harden, install the taffeta with the nails down. Press in such a way that the board is flush with the floor. Allow the screed to dry.
After the solution has hardened, all that remains is to screw the toilet bowl using ordinary screws, under the heads of which it is imperative to put rubber or nylon gaskets. Everything, you can connect the drain to the sewer, supply water to the tank.
Installing a toilet in a screed
In the past, the most common way to attach a toilet to the floor was to install it with cement. The essence of the method is simple, when pouring the floor, a recess was left in which the base of the bowl was placed. The toilet was installed, leveled and filled with mortar.
As advantages of this method, one can note the simplicity of operation and the stability of the device, it does not need to be further strengthened, only the careful dismantling of such a toilet bowl is impossible, it can only be broken.
Fixing the toilet bowl to the floor is a responsible process that requires not so much knowledge and experience as accuracy and diligence. You do not have to be a major specialist to cope with the work, you just need to be patient and choose the method of fastening according to your strength. A little effort - and the toilet is in place, the device works, and the money on the installation is saved.
If you deal with the issue of installing a toilet bowl, then you can save a lot on the services of plumbing specialists. And do not be afraid of this work, because there are no special complex technological processes. The main thing is to get to the heart of the matter, study the material provided and consolidate the whole theory with the video material you have watched.
In this article, we will tell you about the popular ways to fix the toilet to the floor. It should be said right away that we will not describe the technology of concreting the toilet bowl, it is gradually becoming a thing of the past. Now the toilet is installed directly on the tile and it is important to understand the methods of its fastening.
Dismantling works
First of all, it is necessary to carry out dismantling work to remove the old device. All this work should not take long. First of all, the valve for supplying water to the tank is closed. After that, the nut on the hose is unscrewed. The tank is draining water. Next, the mount on the tank is dismantled.
Helpful advice! If the mount is metal and it is slightly rusted, then it will be problematic to unscrew the nut. In this case, you can use special formulations, for example, WD-40. In just a few minutes, the rust will go away, and you can easily unwind the fasteners.
After that, the fasteners on the toilet itself are dismantled. Usually these are anchors twisted into the floor. If you still have an old toilet, then it can be cemented. In this case, you need to carefully break the screed and completely remove the old toilet.
If there are no plans for it or it is already flowing, then you can break the toilet itself, in which case the dismantling will be facilitated. But remember, this is acceptable if it is concreted!
During the dismantling process, be sure to follow the safety precautions so that the fragments do not damage unprotected areas of the body. Plus, you need to carefully remove the toilet from the sewer pipe. If it is damaged, the installation process may be difficult.
Foundation preparation
After complete dismantling, it is necessary to prepare the base for installing the toilet bowl. The amount of work will depend entirely on the quality of the floor. If there is a tile on it and you do not plan to replace it, then just make sure that it is securely held. If you remove the old tile and lay a new one, then you should not rush to install the toilet.
If the old device was concreted and a hole formed in the floor after its removal, then it must be completely cleaned and cemented. It is also important to pay attention to the outlet of the sewer pipe. It must be integral in order to exclude the possibility of leakage of sewage. If you have cast iron pipes, then immediately plan to replace the pipe with a plastic one.
Tools
To fix the toilet with your own hands, you need the appropriate tool. Most home craftsmen have it. In particular, you may need:
- Perforator.
- Wrench.
- A hammer.
- Roulette.
- New flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
This is the main set of tools. Its configuration may vary slightly, depending on the method of installation.
Instructions for fixing the toilet bowl - 3 ways
So, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with three ways to fix the toilet:
- With the help of dowels.
- For glue.
- On taffeta.
Although the technology is different, the task remains the same - to securely fasten the toilet to the floor so that it does not fall during its operation.
With dowels
If you have a flat floor, then this method is the most common. But a perfectly flat tile floor is important here. If a small difference falls into the place of attachment, the toilet bowl may crack.
To prevent this from happening, you can put a rubber lining or a piece of old linoleum under the toilet. To cut it out, you need to put the toilet bowl on the material, circle the outline with a marker and then cut out the given shape.
After that, marking is carried out directly on the floor. In most cases, toilet bowls have two mounts. The markup process is as follows:
- Put the toilet in the intended place.
- Outline its outline on the floor.
- Place marks where the mounting hole will be drilled.
- You remove the device and apply a sealant to the floor, with which the lining selected and cut out by you will be glued.
While the sealant hardens, you can begin to make a hole. The quality of fastening will largely depend on the correctness of the selected drill diameter. It must fully correspond to the diameter of the dowel. You can drill through the gasket.
A plastic dowel must be hammered into the prepared hole. After that, we install the toilet in place and fix it with dowels. The device should be properly pulled, but moderately, otherwise the tab on the mount may break off.
For simplified installation, usually dowels for fastening are equipped with a special plastic gasket, which eliminates the possibility of a possible chipping.
At the next stage, the toilet is connected to the sewer, the tank is installed and the water is connected. When installing the tank, a rubber seal must be used. For greater probability, it can be smeared with silicone or other sealant. This will increase the quality of the docking and prevent water leakage during draining.
note
After filling the tank, it is necessary to drain it several times. This is done in order to make sure that all joints are completely sealed: between the tank and the toilet, on the water hose and on the connection of the sewer pipe.
At the end of all work, it is recommended to treat the junction of the toilet bowl and the tiles on the floor with silicone sealant. This will prevent water leakage and dampness accumulation.
On glue
You can also fix the toilet with glue. This is especially necessary when there is underfloor heating technology. Various materials can be used as an adhesive, for example, epoxy glue, silicone and other sealants.
If epoxy adhesive is available, use it only if the floors are sufficiently smooth. The work process is as follows:
- First, the floor surface must be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants. Also, there should be no moisture that will interfere with good adhesion.
- To ensure a high adhesion quality, the floor tiles can be roughened with a stiff brush.
- Next, the surface is degreased with acetone or another solvent.
- If the glue is ready, then it must be applied to the bottom of the toilet bowl, with a layer thickness of up to 4 mm.
- Then bring the device to the sewer hole, dock and at the same time install it in its place.
- Putting the toilet on the floor, it must be pressed and left for half a day for the glue to harden.
- Only when the glue has dried, you can connect the tank and water supply.
That's the whole technology of gluing the toilet bowl to the floor.
On taffeta
If you have a wooden floor, then this method of fixing the toilet is the most suitable. Taffeta refers to a special lining made of wood.
The thickness of the wood should be around 300 mm. In order to prevent the rotting of this embedded part, it must be treated with drying oil and other anti-corrosion compounds without fail. The essence of this technology is as follows:
- Stuff nails onto the prepared timber so that they peek out of the taffeta by 30 mm.
- Next, a recess is prepared in the screed according to the size of the taffeta.
- Fill the hole with mortar.
- Attach the workpiece to the solution with the side where the nails stick out.
- As a result, it should be flush with the floor.
- It is necessary to give time for the solution to fully seize and get stronger.
- After 12 hours, you can fix the toilet with self-tapping screws directly into the wooden mortgage.
Advice! To make the screws easy to tighten, they can be lubricated with graphite or grease. Thanks to this, after a while it will also be easy to unscrew them..
After that, the standard procedure for connecting the barrel is carried out. Additionally, you can smear the place where the toilet bowl joins the taffeta with silicone. This will eliminate the likelihood that moisture will flow under the sole and accumulate.
Conclusion
So, we looked at the two most common technologies for how to properly install a toilet on a tile. Also, in addition, we learned how to be if you have a wooden floor. As you can see, there are no particularly complicated processes. One of the main tasks is to choose the right fasteners.
Although in most cases, it comes with the purchased device. We hope that this material will help you independently deal with all the details of installing and fixing the toilet bowl.
How to install a toilet on a tile with your own hands, video example
Installation of plumbing equipment is carried out in strict accordance with building rules and regulations. Home craftsmen often experience fear of such work. This is used by service companies that request very decent money for performing fairly simple operations. Meanwhile, fixing the toilet bowl to the floor is an activity that is quite affordable for independent implementation. It is only important to carefully familiarize yourself with the existing work technologies, choose the most suitable one, and follow all the instructions exactly.
Regardless of the chosen method of attaching the toilet bowl, installation work begins with the assembly of the cistern. The device is assembled in accordance with the instructions and fixed in place intended for it. Also, before installing the toilet, the units for supplying and discharging water must be prepared. There are several methods for attaching devices. The main selection criterion is the floor material on which the equipment will be installed. Let's take a closer look at the most common methods.
Method number 1: installation on dowels
The most practical method that allows you to install the device with the least effort and time. It is optimal for use on a flat, smooth surface, since the slightest height difference adversely affects the quality of the flush. It is preferable to use this method of fastening for lightweight compact structures, since the fixation may not be entirely reliable. Plumbers advise installing equipment on a special gasket, which you can easily make yourself from old linoleum or a sheet of thin rubber. The toilet bowl is installed on the workpiece, circled around the contour with a marker. After that, with a sharp knife or just scissors, the gasket of the desired shape is cut out.
The device is fixed to the floor with dowels or special plumbing fasteners. Fasteners usually come with new equipment. It can also be purchased from specialized stores.
Now we need to markup. We “try on” the toilet bowl on the place prepared for the equipment and draw it around the contour. We remove the device. We apply a thin layer of sealant and glue the gasket on it. This design will be the most reliable, although some masters prefer to do without a substrate at all. You can start drilling holes for fasteners. As practice shows, if you stick the gasket with high quality and choose the diameter of the drill so that the holes for the fasteners are slightly larger than it, then further installation will be much easier. This is due to the fact that the rubber backing acts as a kind of "contact spot" for the floor and the device.
It happens that it is required not only to fix the toilet bowl to the floor, but also to raise it a little. This is true if there are several devices in the apartment. Then the last one in the system needs to be raised by about 3-4 cm. In this case, a piece of a two-inch board is used, which is used as a stand. It is cut exactly along the contour of the toilet and placed on the floor, a rubber substrate is placed on top of it. All this is sealed with a sealant and forms a reliable and durable structure. Holes for fasteners are drilled directly on the gasket.
Tighten the mount on the base of the toilet very carefully. Excessive force can damage the ceramics from which the device is made.
As fasteners, you can use long metal dowels or special plumbing fixtures. The latter usually come with new equipment. The quality of fixing they have is about the same, so you can use both options. We drive dowels into the holes prepared in the floor. We install the toilet and carefully screw it. It must be remembered that excessively strong tightening of the ceramic from which the device is made can be damaged.
Now you need to connect the device to the sewer. At this stage, we pay special attention to the corrugation. We generously lubricate both its edges with silicone. We insert one of them into the sewer socket, and put the second on the toilet outlet. All parts of the connection should be carefully pressed with your fingers so that the sealing is of high quality. As an additional measure, you can use metallized tape, which can be used to seal the joints. We connect the water supply and the device is ready for operation. There is a similar mounting method, which is presented in detail in the video.
Method number 2: mounting on glue
Of all the methods for fixing a toilet to the floor, this one is the easiest, but also the most time consuming. For the curing of the epoxy mixture, which is used as an adhesive, it takes about 12-15 hours. This method can only be used on a smooth surface. Most often it is used to fix equipment on floor tiles. The method is very easy to perform. First, both surfaces to be bonded must be well cleaned of dust and debris. Floor tiles can be sanded to make them rougher. This will improve the adhesion of the material. Surfaces are degreased with any solvent or acetone.
Preparing glue. You can buy ready-made epoxy or make your own. To do this, you need to take 100 parts of epoxy resin ED-6, 200 parts of cement, 20 parts of solvent or plasticizer and 35 parts of hardener. The order in which the components are added to the solution is important. First, the resin is heated to 50C, a solvent is added to it, then a hardener, and at the very end - cement. The composition must be constantly stirred to form a plastic, homogeneous mass.
In order for the toilet to be securely fixed in place, the floor covering is prepared: cleaned for better adhesion and lubricated with a small layer of glue. Excess composition, speaking under the weight of the equipment, is immediately removed with a damp cloth.
Properly prepared adhesive mixture can be used within one and a half hours. We apply it to the base of the toilet bowl so that the solution covers an area of at least 20 square meters. cm, and the layer thickness was at least 4 mm. We install the prepared equipment in the right place, combining the sewer socket with the outlet, and press it to the floor with force. After that, the device is left for at least 12 hours. This period is necessary for the curing of the adhesive composition. During this time, it is not recommended to even touch the toilet. Then we connect the equipment to the water supply and sewerage.
Method number 3: taffeta mount
Most often, this method is used to install toilets on a wooden floor. Taffeta is a pad of durable wood to which equipment is attached. The thickness of the board from which the element is cut, corresponding to the shape of the toilet support rack, should be 28-32 mm. To protect the part from dampness, it must be carefully treated with drying oil. For reliable fixing to the floor from the bottom of the taffeta, an anchor is mounted. The simplest option is nails driven in a checkerboard pattern, which should protrude 2-3 cm from the part. The recess prepared for installing the toilet bowl is filled with cement mortar. Taffeta is sunk down into it with anchors. As a result, it should be flush with the floor.
After approximately 12 hours, during which the mortar is completely dry, you can proceed to fixing the equipment. The device is fixed with screws. Rubber washers must be placed under their heads, which will prevent possible damage to the toilet frame when tightened. Experts advise lubricating the screws with grease or graphite before work, so that later, if necessary, they can be easily unscrewed. Wood taffeta can be replaced with a rubber backing. It is cut out of sheet material with a thickness of 5 to 15 mm, possibly even from an old rubber mat. Such a substrate should be 1-2 cm smaller than the toilet support column.
Mounting the toilet on taffeta involves the use of a special wooden insert. The diagram shows all the elements of such a mount.
There are various ways to attach a standard toilet bowl to the floor. They differ significantly in complexity and time spent on installation work. It is important to choose the right fastening method. It depends on the material from which the floor is made in the room. Installation work can be carried out independently, but if there is no experience or desire, it is better to turn to professionals. They will quickly and competently carry out all the work, guaranteeing a long and flawless service of the new equipment.
Equipping modern housing with a toilet room is a traditional touch of any project. In turn, installing a toilet in a toilet is also a long-established procedure. Usually, installation is performed by default during the construction of housing.
We will tell you how to fix the toilet to the floor. Together with you, we will analyze which method of fixing plumbing is better to use if you suddenly have to change the device during operation. Taking into account our advice, you will be able to quickly and easily complete the work without involving a plumber.
A toilet bowl of any configuration, like a plumbing fixture in general, is mounted in accordance with the installation instructions. The initial installation of these plumbing fixtures (at the stage of housing construction), as a rule, is carried out by professional performers.
But in the future, already established owners of real estate often carry out the reconstruction of the toilet, in particular, they change the toilet bowl. And they do it themselves in order to save on installation services.
Users often change equipment according to personal preferences. Some of them do not know all the nuances of installation and fastening methods.
Installation of a toilet bowl with subsequent fastening to the floor of the toilet room. The initial installation of such plumbing is usually done by professional plumbers.
Self-reinstallation is not prohibited and encouraged. However, such intentions of the owner should at least be accompanied by knowledge of the methods of attaching the toilet to the floor. It would seem a banal detail of the installation procedure, but when they want to see a high-quality, reliable installation as the result, even the smallest details are important.
The nuances of installing toilets are directly related to the one chosen for installation. In everyday life, floor-mounted toilets are most often used. At the same time, most of the mounted devices have the configuration of compact products.
How to fix a compact and any other toilet to the floor of the toilet room, doing the installation yourself?
Compact model of the toilet bowl, mounted according to the scheme of fastening to the floor. In this case, the installation was done professionally. The high quality of installation and fastening of plumbing fixtures on the floor is clearly demonstrated
Approximately this result should be sought by self-taught masters.
Analysis of fastener methods
Building practice indicates at least three methods for attaching toilet bowls to the floor surface:
- standard installation kit;
- by using special adhesives;
- by installation on cement mortar.
The standard installation kit (dowel-screw) is usually recommended for installation on an exceptionally flat floor surface.
The method, from the point of view of reliability and stability of the structure, is considered acceptable, but does not fully satisfy in all cases. Let's apply the "standard" usually to models of a compact type, having a small weight and modest dimensions.
Another way of attaching the toilet to the floor - landing on glue - provides a high level of bonding strength. But in this case, the quick dismantling of the product, if necessary, is excluded. Therefore, the method of installation on glue is used where installation involves the long-term operation of plumbing without the prospect of replacing it.
The procedure for installing and fixing the toilet bowl to the floor by planting the sole of the appliance on glue. For gluing, as a rule, special adhesive pastes and solutions are used.
Epoxy resin is often used as an adhesive. This adhesive is distinguished by high characteristics in terms of reliability and fastening strength.
Cement mortar is often considered as an alternative to standard and adhesive techniques. In fact, this method is not much different from “landing on glue”, since the cement contains an adhesive component in its composition. Meanwhile, bonding a toilet bowl to a floor with cement mortar shows a lower degree of strength compared to special purpose adhesives.
The choice of mounting method to a large extent depends on the type of base on which the installation is made. You will learn how to put it in an article that covers this issue in detail.
Technology of fastening the toilet to the floor
When referring to one or another method of attaching a home appliance to the floor, the master will need a certain set of tools.
Usually, the execution of work is carried out without much difficulty when you have at hand:
- construction puncher (plus a set of drills of different diameters);
- hand drill (plus drills of different diameters for ceramics);
- manual mechanical press (pusher gun);
- screwdrivers, locksmith keys, pliers, hammer;
- tape measure, pencil, core, rubber spatulas (wide, narrow);
- sandpaper (large, small).
Possible materials for the installation of plumbing:
- plastic dowels (d=8-12 mm, 2-4 pieces);
- screws (screws) metal (d=6-8 mm, 2-4 pieces);
- gaskets under the screw head (2-4 pcs.);
- glue (liquid nails, silicone, epoxy);
- cement, quarry sand (at the rate of 1:2);
- wooden board (thickness 20-25 mm);
- sheet rubber (thickness 10-15 mm).
Installing a toilet bowl and fixing this type of plumbing to the floor with standard fasteners involves drilling holes for dowels. If the plumbing fixture is configured for fastening with two screws (screws), two holes need to be drilled. In the other case, respectively, four.
One of the methods for attaching the toilet to the floor is to fit the device onto screws (bolts, screws). This mounting option is used in practice more often than others. Usually the lion's share of all produced toilet bowls is equipped with just such fasteners.
Some difficulties are accompanied by the drilling process, when. Careless action, lack of experience, ignorance of the technology of drilling holes in ceramic tiles are the main reasons for installation failures. You need to drill ceramics with a special drill, observing the rule of light pressure and low speed of rotation of the drill.
Installation with subsequent fastening on cement mortar also has its own characteristics. Here, an important factor determining the quality of the connection is the composition of the solution. Therefore, it is recommended to adhere as accurately as possible to the established ratio of 1: 2 (M200), where the first digit is the amount of cement, the second is the amount of quarry sand.
Image gallery
Modern technology for fixing toilet bowls in a home toilet. Fastening of all elements of the toilet bowl is carried out on a special metal frame - an installation disguised in the wall
True, the "installation" - a metal structure, provides for a slightly different form of installation - suspended. That is, plumbing is not mounted with emphasis on the floor of the toilet room, but remains suspended after installation.
Plumbing fixtures are made from strong but fragile materials. Therefore, when fixing a porcelain or faience appliance with screws (bolts), it is not recommended to use maximum efforts for screeding. Be sure to use soft gaskets (silicone, rubber, plastic), placing them under the screw heads.
Fasten the toilet to the metal screws carefully, using moderate force. It is highly recommended to use soft pads under the screw heads.
If glue is used for fasteners, the quality of cleaning and degreasing of the surfaces to be glued is of great importance in achieving the strength of the connection.
When using epoxy resin, it is necessary to strictly observe the ratio of resin and solvent in the process of preparing the adhesive mass. The adhesive must be applied evenly to the surface, to prevent the formation of air cushions.
When installing the device “on taffeta”, it is advisable to choose hardwood as a material. You can use multi-layer plywood, but in any case, you should provide high-quality waterproofing for taffeta. Humid environment dramatically reduces the durability of any wood.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
One of the options for attaching a plumbing fixture to the floor is discussed in the following video:
Which toilet installation method is best is up to the owner of the property where it is supposed to mount and fix the plumbing.
However, when choosing a technique, it is recommended to take into account the possible loads on the toilet bowl, the material of the device (faience, porcelain), as well as the design features of the toilet room. A careful approach to business will certainly help to achieve the desired result.
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